AT392592B

AT392592B - Self-locking abseiling device

Info

Publication number: AT392592B
Application number: AT203988A
Authority: AT
Original assignee: Prohaska Heinz
Priority date: 1988-08-17
Filing date: 1988-08-17
Publication date: 1991-04-25
Also published as: ATA203988A

Abstract

A self-locking abseiling device, which locks reliably and can be effortlessly unlocked by means of a downward- pivoting hand grip. No moving parts are required and the passage of the rope is flat. The load-bearing eyes 25, 26 are provided at the hand grip end 23 of the abseiling device and are connected to each other by two spacers 1, 2 which form a hollow inner compartment 27 of the abseiling device together with the load-bearing eyes 25, 26, these spacers 1, 2 and the load- bearing eyes 25, 26 being pivotable together with the hand grip 10 for unlocking purposes, a rope deflection device 28 being present between the spacers 1, 2 and the hand grip 10, and the course of the rope being such that the rope 30 enters into the hollow inner cavity 27 over the lower spacer 2 in the locked position of the abseiling device, passes through the inner chamber and the load suspension device 24 in the direction of the hand grip, and is guided around the rope deflection device 28 and back into the hollow inner chamber 27 and emerges to the outside next to the second spacer 1. <IMAGE>

Description

AT 392 592 BAT 392 592 B

Die Erfindung betrifft ein selbstblockierendes Abseilgerät, insbesondere zur Höhienbefahrung und zum Bergsteigen, mit zwei durch Distanzhalter, beispielsweise Bolzen, aneinander fixierten Seitenwänden mit jeweils einer zum Einhängen einer Lastanhängeeinrichtung, beispielsweise eines Karabinerhakens, dienenden Lastöse, zwischen den Seitenwänden befindlichen, zum Bremsen des Seiles dienenden Seihimlehkeinrichtungen und einem 5 zum Deblockieren einer Seilblockierungseinrichtung in Richtung auf die Lastanhängeeinrichtung um eine zum bergseitigen Seilstrang senkrechte Achse aus ein» Blockierstellung in eine Abseilstellung verschwenkbaren, in der Abseilstellung abwärts weisenden Handgriff. Unter "Bremsen des Seiles" ist dabei jeder Reibungseinfluß auf das Seil zu verstehen, der zu einer Verlangsamung, Unteibrechung oder Beendigung einer Abseilfahrt fühn Als "Blockierstellung" des Handgriffes ist jede Stellung des Handgriffes definiert, in der das Seil im Abseilgeiät durch 10 die Seilblockierungseinrichtung des Abseilgerätes bewegungslos festgehalten ist "Abseilstellung" ist jede Stellung des Handgriffes, in der ein abseilgeiechter, kontrolliert» Seildurchlauf durch das Abseilgerät erfolgen kann.The invention relates to a self-blocking abseiling device, in particular for climbing high altitude and for mountaineering, with two side walls fixed to one another by spacers, for example bolts, each with a load eyelet serving to hang in a load hitching device, for example a snap hook, between the side walls and used to brake the rope Cable reclining devices and a 5 for unblocking a cable blocking device in the direction of the load hitching device about an axis which is perpendicular to the cable strand on the mountain side from a blocking position which can be pivoted into a descending position and which points downward in the descending position. Under " braking the rope " is to be understood here any influence of friction on the rope, which leads to a slowdown, interruption or termination of a descent. As " blocking position " of the handle, each position of the handle is defined in which the rope in the abseiling device is held motionless by the rope blocking device of the abseiling device " abseiling position " is every position of the handle in which a rappelled, controlled »passage through the rappel can take place.

Zum Abseilen werden zunehmend Abseilg»äte verwendet, die sowohl die Fähigkeit haben, durch eine geeignete Seilumlenkung die potentielle Energie des Abseilenden in einem gewünschten Ausmaß in IS Reibungswärme umzuwandeln, wobei die den losen, talnäheren Seilstrang mit dosierter Kraft umfassende Bremshand des Abseilenden die Abseilgeschwindigkeit reguliert, als auch im Falle eines Sturzes des Abseilenden selbsttätig seilblockierend zu wirken. Die Auswahl des Gerätetyps richtet sich nach dem Verwendungszweck. Um ein Rotieren des Abseilenden um seine eigene Achse und die Verdrehung des Seilrestes unterhalb des Abseilgerätes während des Abseilens möglichst zu v»meiden, werden für die Befahrung tief» Höhlenschächte und 20 teilweise auch für lange alpine Abseilfahrten Abseilgeräte mit einem ebenen, drehungsneutralen Seilverlauf bevorzugt.Abseiling devices are increasingly being used for abseiling, which both have the ability to convert the potential energy of the abseil to a desired extent into IS frictional heat by means of a suitable rope deflection, the abseiling person's braking hand, which comprises the loose, closer rope strand with metered force, regulates the abseiling speed , as well as automatically blocking the rope in the event of a fall. The selection of the device type depends on the intended use. In order to avoid the end of the rappel rotating around its own axis and the twisting of the remaining rope underneath the abseil device while abseiling, deep cave shafts and partly also for long alpine abseil rides descender devices with a flat, rotation-neutral rope course are preferred.

Alle bekannten Abseilgeräte d» eingangs erwähnten Art, die ein») ebenen Seilveriauf aufweisen, haben den gemeinsam») Nachteil, bewegliche Teile zu »fordern, und nur eines dies» Geräte hat die Fähigkeit, so gut zu blockieren, daß es auch unter ungünstigen Bedingung»), beispielsweise bei V»wendung sehr geschmeidiger 25 Seile, sturzsich» ist Dieses letztgenannte G»ät, das in der EP-Al 0132592 beschrieben ist, erfordert ab» zum Deblockieren seiner Seilblockierungseinrichtung auf Grund seines systembedingt ungünstigen Hebelv»hältnisses eine sehr hohe Handkraft, was Abseilfahrten, besonders wenn sie läng» dauern, mühsam macht.All known abseiling devices of the type mentioned at the beginning, which have a flat rope arrangement, have the common disadvantage of requiring moving parts, and only one of these devices has the ability to block so well that it can also be used under unfavorable conditions Condition »), for example when using very supple 25 ropes, is safe from falling This latter device, which is described in EP-A1 0132592, requires a very long time from» to unblock his rope blocking device due to its system-wise unfavorable lever ratio high manual strength, which makes rappelling, especially if they take a long time, tedious.

Die in der EP-Bl 0018302 beschriebene Seilbremse besitzt war einen ätmlichen Seilverlauf wie die oben genannten Abseilgeräte, wirkt ab» bei ihrer Verwendung als Abseilgerät nicht selbstblockierend. 30 Das in der AT-PS 383959 beschriebene Abseilgerät wirkt zuverlässig selbstblockierend, erfordert keine beweglich») Teile, besitzt ab» einen räumlichen, zur Seilv»drehung beim Abseil») führenden Seilv»lauf.The rope brake described in EP-Bl 0018302 has an identical rope course as the abseiling devices mentioned above, does not have a self-blocking effect when used as a descending device. 30 The descender described in AT-PS 383959 has a reliable self-locking effect, does not require any moving parts, has a spatial rope run leading to rope rotation when abseiling.

Es ist daher Aufgabe der Erfindung, ein selbstblockierendes Abseilgerät der eingangs erwähnten Art zu schaffen, das einen ebenen Seilv»lauf ohne Verdrehung des Seiles während des Abseilens aufweist, keine beweglich») Teile erfordert, und dessen Seilblockierungseinrichtung zuverlässig funktioniert und mit g»ingem 35 Kraftaufwand deblockierbar ist. Gekennzeichnet ist ein erfindungsgemäßes selbstblockierendes Abseilgerät dadurch, daß die beiden Lastösen am handgriffemeren Ende des Abseilgerätes vorgesehen und durch zwei Distanzhalter miteinander verbunden sind, die gemeinsam mit den Lastösen ein») hohlen Innenraum des Abseilgerätes bilden, daß diese Distanzhalter und die Lastösen zusammen mit dem Handgriff zum Deblockieren der Seilblockierungseinrichtung aus einer Blockierstellung in eine Abseilstellung verschwenkbar sind, daß 40 zwischen den beiden Distanzhaltem und dem Handgriff eine Seilumlenkeinrichtung vorhanden ist, und daß in und an diesem Abseilgerät ein Seilv»lauf vorgesehen ist, bei dem das Seil üb» den in d» Blockierstellung des Abseilgerätes unteren der beiden Distanzhalter in den hohlen Innenraum des Abseilg»ätes eintritt, diesen und die Lastanhängeeinrichtung in der Richtung auf den Handgriff durchsetzt, um die Seilumlenkeinrichtung herum und zurück in den hohl») Innenraum des Abseilgerätes geführt ist und neben dem zweiten, in der Blockierstellung des 45 Abseilgerätes oberen Distanzhalter nach außen austrittIt is therefore an object of the invention to provide a self-locking descender of the type mentioned at the outset, which has a flat rope run without twisting the rope during abseiling, does not require any movable parts, and whose rope blocking device functions reliably and with general 35 Force can be deblocked. A self-locking abseiling device according to the invention is characterized in that the two load eyes are provided at the end of the abseiling device which is at the handle and are connected to one another by two spacers, which together with the load eyes form a hollow interior of the abseiling device in that these spacers and the load eyes together with the handle To unblock the rope blocking device from a blocking position into a rappelling position, a rope deflection device is present between the two spacers and the handle, and that a rope run is provided in and on this rappelling device, in which the rope overlaps in d »Blocking position of the descender lower of the two spacers enters the hollow interior of the abseiling device, passes through it and the load attachment device in the direction of the handle, around the rope deflection device and back into the hollow interior of the abseiling device g e and, in addition to the second, in the blocking position of the 45 descender, the upper spacer emerges to the outside

In einer der beiden Seitenwände des Abseilgerätes kann zwischen der Lastöse und der Seilumlenkeinrichtung eine Einführöffnung für das Seil vorgesehen sein. Diese Ausführungsform des erfindungsgemäßen Abseilgerätes »laubt ein rasches und einfaches Einfuhren des Seiles in dasselbe.An insertion opening for the rope can be provided in one of the two side walls of the descender between the lifting eye and the rope deflection device. This embodiment of the abseiling device according to the invention allows a quick and easy insertion of the rope into the same.

Die durch die Einführöffnung unterbrochene Seitenwand des Abseilgerätes kann zur Verhinderung eines 50 ungewollten Zurückschlüpfens des Seiles durch die Einführöffnung handgriffseitig einen abgewinkelten oder gebogenen Fortsatz aufweisen, der die Einführöffnung außen überragt.The side wall of the abseiling device interrupted by the insertion opening can have an angled or curved extension on the handle side to prevent the rope from slipping back unintentionally, which protrudes outside the insertion opening.

Das erfindungsgemäße Abseilgerät hat folgende Vorteile: Es ist vielseitig einsetzbar für verschiedene Abseiltechniken, als Rücklaufsperre für alpine Flaschenzüge und als Steigklemmenersatz beim Aufstieg am Seil, erfordert keine beweglichen Teile und hat auf Grund der in einer Ebene erfolgenden Seilumlenkung die 55 Eigenschaft, bei seiner Benutzung keine Drehungen im Seil zu erzeugen. Es kann daher auch für Abseilfahrten an langen Seilen verwendet werden. Der Handgriff ist zum Deblockieren der Seilblockierungseinrichtung des Abseilgerätes bequem verschwenkbar und kann mühelos auch längere Zeit in dies» Stellung gehalten werden. Das erfindungsgemäße Abseilg»ät ist auch bei Verwendung dünner und geschmeidiger Seile sturzsich». Darüber hinaus ist es so konstruierbar, daß es in einfacher Weise aus handelsüblichen Halbfabrikaten und Bauteilen 60 i herstellbar ist.The descender according to the invention has the following advantages: It is versatile for various abseiling techniques, as a backstop for alpine pulley blocks and as a replacement for climbing clamps when climbing on a rope, requires no moving parts and, due to the rope deflection taking place on one level, has the 55 characteristic that it does not have when used To create twists in the rope. It can therefore also be used for abseiling on long ropes. The handle can be swiveled easily to unblock the rope blocking device of the descender and can easily be held in this position for »longer. The abseiling device according to the invention is fall-resistant even when using thin and supple ropes. In addition, it can be constructed so that it can be produced in a simple manner from commercially available semi-finished products and components 60 i.

In den Zeichnungsfigur») ist eine beispielsweise Ausführungsform des Erfindungsgegenstandes dargestellL Es zeigen Fig. 1 ein erfindungsgemäßes Abseilgerät in der Vorderansicht, Fig. 2 das Abseilgerät aus Fig. 1 in der -2-An exemplary embodiment of the subject matter of the invention is shown in the drawing figure. FIG. 1 shows a descender according to the invention in front view, FIG. 2 shows the descender from FIG.

Claims

AT 392 592 B side view, Fig. 3 the abseiling device from Fig. 1 with an inserted rope in a descending position, Fig. 4 the abseiling device from Fig. 1 with the inserted rope in a »blocking position. The embodiment of the descender according to the invention shown in the drawing figures has two side walls (4, 5) fixed to each other by spacers (X, 2, 3), the lower end sections (¢, 7) of which are the S longitudinal halves (8, 9) of a handle (10) form. Each spacer (1,2,3) consists of a bolt (11, 12, 13), a sleeve (14, 15, 16) and two washers (17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22). At the handle end (23) of the descender there are two load eyelets (25, 26) for hanging a load attachment device (24), for example a snap hook, in the side walls (4, 5) of the descender, which together with the spacers (1, 2) form a hollow interior (27) of the descender. 10 The spacer (3) located between the spacers (1, 2) and the handle (10) is provided as a cable deflection device (28). In the side wall (5) of the descender there is an insertion opening (29) for the rope (30) between the lifting eye (26) and the rope deflection device (28), the rope (30) being prevented from slipping back unintentionally through the insertion opening (29 ) a lateral extension (31) of the side wall (5) projects beyond the insertion opening (29) in the direction from the handle (10) to the 15 handle end (23) of the abseiling device. For abseiling according to FIGS. 3 and 4, the abseiling device according to the invention is equipped with a in the two load eyelets (25, 26) suspended load attachment device (24), for example a snap hook, and a rope loop (32) or similarly attached to the harness of the rapper or the like and a section (33) of the rapper, already in the field anchored rope (30) from the handle 20 end (23) of the descender according to the invention into the load attachment device (24) and the hollow interior ( 27) of the descender, pulled out on the handle side, pulled between the two longitudinal halves (8,9) of the handle (10) to the cable deflection device (28), deflected on it and using the insertion opening (29) from the outside inwards between the Spacers (1 and 3) introduced. After grasping the valley-side strand (34) of the rope (30) below the abseiling device by the 25 abseil ends with his brake hand, the handle (10) with the operating hand (35) of the abseil end is pushed against the load attachment device (24) by an ideal one the cable strand (36) on the mountain side, the vertical axis (37) is pivoted out of its blocking position into a descent position, the distance between the load attachment device (24) and the spacer (2) widening and being held in this position. This ends the rope blocking and, after loosening the brake hand grip, the descent begins. If the 30 rappel falls on the way, the handle (10) automatically swings back into its blocking position in a direction pointing away from the load attachment device (24) as a result of the load torque after being released by the rappel. The distance between the load attachment device (24) and the spacer (2) decreases, the rope (30) is clamped and held between these two, and the passage of the rope through the descender is automatically blocked by it. 35 PATENT CLAIMS 40 1. Self-blocking descender in particular for caving and climbing, with two side walls fixed to each other by 45 spacers, for example bolts, each with a »for hanging in» load hitching device, for example a snap hook, serving lifting eye, rope deflection devices located between the side walls, serving to brake the rope and one for unblocking a rope blocking device in the direction of the load hitching device about an axis which is pivotable from a blocking position in an abseiling position and which points downwards in the abseiling position 50, about an axis perpendicular to the rope strand on the mountain side, characterized in that the two load eyelets (25, 26) are provided on the hand-held end (23) of the descender and are connected to one another by two spacers (1, 2), which together with the load eyelets (25, 26) form a hollow interior (27) of the descender, that these spacers (1, 2) and the load eyes (25, 26) together with the handle (10) for unblocking the rope blocking device can be pivoted 55 from a blocking position into a descending position, that between the two spacers (1, 2) and the handle (10) a rope deflection device (28) is provided, and that a rope run is provided in and on this abseiling device, in which the rope (30) passes over the lower of the two spacers (2) in the blocking position of the abseiling device hollow interior (27) of the abseiling device, passes through it and the load attachment device (24) in the direction of the handle (10), around the cable deflection device (28) and back into the hollow interior (27) is and 601 exits to the outside next to the second, in the "blocking position of the descender upper distance stop" (1). -3- AT 392 592 B

2. Descender according to claim 1, characterized in that an insertion opening (29) for the rope (30) is provided in one of the two side walls (5) of the descender between the lifting eye (26) and the rope deflection device (28).

3. Descender according to claim 2, characterized in that the side wall (5) interrupted by the insertion opening (29) of the descender to prevent unwanted slipping back of the rope (30) through the insertion opening (29) on the handle side an angled or curved extension (31) which projects beyond the insertion opening (29) on the outside 10 * Including 3 sheets of drawings \ -4-