BRPI1005103B1 - COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR CLEANING AND CONDITIONING QUERATINAL FIBERS, COSMETIC TREATMENT PROCESS OF QUERATIN FIBERS AND USE OF A COMPOSITION - Google Patents

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITION OF CLEANING AND CONDITIONING KERATIN FIBERS, COSMETIC TREATMENT PROCESS OF KERATIN FIBERS AND USE OF A COMPOSITION Field of the Invention The present invention is directed to a particular cosmetic composition of cleaning and conditioning of keratin fibers, in particular of keratin fibers. human keratin fibers such as hair, which comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, one or more organic silicon compounds, one or more anionic surfactants and one or more particular amino silicones. keratin fibers as well as a use of said cosmetic composition Background for the cleaning and / or washing of keratin materials such as hair, the use of essentially detergent compositions (such as shampoos) of classical surfactants of a particular anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric, but more particularly anionic type, is common. These compositions are applied on wet hair and the foam generated by hand massage or rubbing allows, after rinsing with water, the elimination of various dirt initially present in hair or skin These base compositions certainly have good washing power, but the intrinsic cosmetic properties attached to them are nonetheless quite weak, in particular because the relatively aggressive character of such a cleansing treatment can lead to over time, more or less severe damage to the hair fiber, linked in particular with the progressive elimination of lipids or proteins contained in or on the surface of that fiber.

Thus, to improve the cosmetic properties of the above detergent compositions, and more particularly those intended to be applied to sensitized hair (i.e. hair that is generally damaged or brittle by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and inclement weather, and / or mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, discoloring, perming and / or straightening), it is now customary to introduce into these compositions complementary cosmetic agents called conditioners primarily intended for use. to repair or limit the harmful or undesirable effects induced by the different treatments or aggressions to which the hair fibers are subjected more or less repeatedly. These conditioning agents can of course also improve the cosmetic behavior of natural hair.

To this end, it has been proposed to use cosmetically active organic compounds such as cationic polymers and silicones as conditioning agents in detergent cosmetic compositions such as shampoos to impart satisfactory cosmetic properties to the hair, in particular shine, softness, suppleness, lightness, a natural touch as well as an improved detangling aptitude.

However, the use of these compounds in cosmetic wash and conditioner compositions does not provide the hair with satisfactory and lasting styling properties. In fact, these compositions generally provide hair styling effects, such as hair conservation, body and / or discipline effects, which are insufficient and tend to disappear after shampooing the hair with a classic shampoo.

It has been found, however, that consumers are increasingly looking for shampoo compositions that are not only capable of conditioning their hair properly but also capable of providing satisfactory and lasting styling effects.

Thus, hair-washing and conditioning compositions comprising organic silicon compounds, such as 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, have been developed to meet these requirements. These shampoo compositions condition the hair, in particular giving it a satisfactory soft touch while giving it visible and lasting styling effects.

[009] In addition, these compositions have proved particularly advantageous in that they facilitate the modeling of fine hair and impart interesting styling effects to curly or curly hair, in particular by improving the design and control of curls.

However, wash compositions comprising such organic silicon compounds generally have the disadvantage that they evolve appreciably over time under normal storage conditions as a function of temperature, in particular with regard to their viscosity and visual appearance. . In other words, such compositions are not stable, which generally translates to a cloudy visual appearance as well as unsatisfactory texture during storage.

In fact, it was found that organic silicon compounds, such as 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, were not chemically compatible with all surfactants, in particular anionic surfactants, which may be present in the wash compositions, which causes the stability problems encountered.

Furthermore, it has been observed that the introduction of certain organic silicon compounds, in particular amino derivatives such as 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, into wash compositions, generally having a pH ranging from 4 to 7, also causes problems. stability due to the alkaline character of these compounds.

Brief Description of the Invention There is therefore a real need to develop cosmetic compositions for the cleaning and conditioning of keratin fibers containing organic silicon compounds which do not have all of the drawbacks described above, that is, they are stable to the surface. over time and to condition the hair satisfactorily while giving them visible, lasting styling effects, in particular in terms of mass, body and texturization of hair.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The Depositor surprisingly revealed that it was possible to formulate detergent and conditioner compositions of keratin fibers having the desired properties comprising one or more organic silicon compounds as defined below, one or more more anionic surfactants and one or more non-quaternized amino silicones.

In fact, it has been found that the use of amino silicones which do not contain in their structure a quaternary ammonium group in cosmetic compositions comprising one or more organic silicon compounds and one or more anionic surfactants enables such compositions to be stable during storage. at room temperature (20-25 ° C) at 45 ° C, in particular with regard to its visual appearance and viscosity.

By "stable" is the sense of the present invention, and it is not apparent that the visual appearance as well as the viscosity of such compositions do not evolve appreciably over time under standard storage testing conditions, e.g. for 2 months at room temperature (20 ° C-25 ° C), and / or at 45 ° C and / or 4 ° C following manufacture.

Furthermore, the compositions according to the present invention lead to satisfactory hair treatment thereby giving them a satisfactory soft touch, improved detangling ability, softness and suppleness.

Furthermore, the compositions according to the present invention impart visible combing effects, in particular imparting lasting mass, body and / or discipline.

Additionally, the compositions according to the present invention make it possible to facilitate hair styling, in particular of fine hair, and to impart improved styling effects to curly hair, in particular in terms of design and curl control, and make this in a lasting way.

[020] The present invention relates in particular to a cosmetic composition for washing and conditioning keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers, such as hair, which comprises in a cosmetically acceptable medium: (i) one or more compounds silicon compounds selected from silanes comprising one silicon atom and siloxanes comprising two or three silicon atoms, and said organic silicon compounds further perform one or more basic chemical functions and one or more hydroxyl or hydrolysable groups per molecule ; (ii) one or more anionic surfactants; and (iii) one or more non-quaternized amino silicones other than compounds (i).

[021] The present invention also relates to a process of cosmetic hair treatment, in particular washing and conditioning, comprising applying to said fibers the composition according to the present invention.

It also deals with the use of the composition as described in the present invention as shampoo for hair washing and conditioning.

Other objects and features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will appear more clearly upon reading the following description and examples.

The organic silicon compounds used in the composition according to the present invention are chosen from organosilanes comprising one silicon atom and organosiloxanes having two or three silicon atoms, preferably two silicon atoms. They must further comprise one or more basic chemical functions, and preferably a single basic chemical function. The basic chemical function may correspond to any function that confers a basic character to the silicon compound and is preferably an amine function such as a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function. The silicon compounds of the present invention may optionally carry other functions, such as, for example, an acid function or a halogen function.

The organic silicon compound (s) used in the composition according to the present invention further comprise two or more hydrolysable groups or hydroxyls per molecule. The hydrolysable groups are preferably alkoxy, aryloxy or halogen groups. They may even eventually carry out other chemical functions such as acidic functions.

According to a particular embodiment, the organosilane (s) used in the composition according to the present invention are chosen from the compounds of formula (I): wherein: FU represents a halogen, an OR 'or R group ! i;

Rs represents a halogen, an OR1 'group or Rs;

Re represents a halogen, an OR 'or R 3 group;

R1, Rs, R3, R1, R1, R1, Rs, R3 and R3 respectively represent a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, possibly carrying chemical groups. and R1, Rs, R \ R "and R" 'may also denote hydrogen, and two of at least R4, Rs and Re respectively denote OR', OR "and OR1", with at least two of the groups R ', R "and R"' are different from hydrogen.

Preferably, the groups R 1, R 2, R ', R', R 2, Ra, R 'and R' 'are chosen from C 1 -C 12 alkyl, C 1 to C 14 aryl, C 1 to C 4 alkyl. Ce-aryl of Ce to Cm, and aryl of Cs to C1-4 alkyl of C1 to Cs.

According to another particular embodiment, 0 or organosiloxanes used in the composition according to the present invention are chosen from the compounds of formula (II): wherein: R1, R2, R3, Rs and Re are defined as above; R 4 represents a halogen atom or an OR 11 group; R? represents a halogen atom, an OR 10 or R 11 group;

Rg represents a halogen atom, an ORs, R "z or R3NR1R2 group; R" i, R "2, Rs, R10 and R11 represents a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group which optionally carries additional chemical groups, and the groups Rn, Rio and Re may further represent a hydrogen atom; where at least one of the groups Rs, R? and Rs denotes a halogen atom, an OR group, OR10 or ORs.

Preferably, the groups R 1, R 2, R 5 or R 5 and R 11 are selected from C 1 -C 12 alkyl, C 1 to C 4 aryl, C 1 to C 4 alkyl, C to C 4 aryl, and aryl with Cs to C1-4 alkyl of C1 to Cs.

In particular, the halogen atom is a chlorine atom.

The organic silicon compound (s) used in the composition according to the present invention are preferably organosilanes selected from the compounds of formula (III): wherein the identical or different R radicals are selected from the compounds of formula (III). C 1 -C 6 alkyl radicals, preferably C 1 -C 2, and n is an integer from 1 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4.

Preferably, the silanes or siloxanes are water soluble and most preferably soluble at a concentration of 2%, more preferably at a concentration of 5% and most preferably at a concentration of 10% by weight in water at room temperature. 25 ^ 15¾ and at atmospheric pressure. Soluble means the formation of a single macroscopic phase.

Particularly preferred, the organic silicon compound present in the composition according to the present invention is 3-amine propyl ether ethoxylation.

The organic silicon compound (s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention at a content preferably ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably at a weight content ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and more preferably at a weight content ranging from 0.2 to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

As indicated above, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention further contains one or more anionic surfactants.

The anionic surfactants used in the compositions of the present invention are chosen from salts, in particular alkali metal salts such as sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, aminoalcohol salts or alkaline earth metals, for example magnesium, of the following types: alkylsulfates, alkylsulfates, alkylamidoethersulfates, alkylaryl polyethersulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidassuphonates, alkylarylsulfonates, αs α -olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosucinates, alkylmetersulfosucinates, alkanideside sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfosacetates, inborn acyls and matyl acyls, the alkyl or acyl groups of all such compounds preferably from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and the radical α1a preferably denotes a phenyl or benzyl group.

[0023] Ce-24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside dicarboxylic acids such as alkyl glycoside citrates, alkyl polyglycoside tartrate s and polyglycoside sulfosuccinate alkyl may also be used, the alkylsulfosuccinates, the acylisethionates and the N-acyltaurates, and the alkyl or acyl group of all these compounds have from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.

Another group of anionic surfactants usable in the compositions of the present invention is that of acyl lactylates whose acyl group has from 8 to 20 carbon atoms.

In addition, alkyl-D-galactoside uronic acids and their salts as well as polyoxyalkylenated (C6-24 alkyl) ether carboxylic acids, (C6-24 alkyl) (aryl with (C 24) polyoxyalkylenated ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C 6-24 alkyl) amidoether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those having from 2 to 50, preferably from 2 to 10 and most preferably from 2 to 5 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably alkylsulfates, alkylsulfates, alkylethylcarboxylates and mixtures thereof are used, in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, amine or amino alcohol salts.

Preferably, the anionic surfactant (s) used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention are chosen from alkyl ether sulphates, preferably C 12 -C 14, and more particularly comprising from 2 to 3 mo of ethylene oxide and N-acyl taurates.

[042] Anionic surfactants may be present in a content ranging from 1 to 25% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 3 to 20% by weight, and most preferably in a content ranging from 5 to 15. % by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention.

[043] The composition according to the present invention further contains one or more non-quaternized amino silicones other than silanes or siloxanes (i).

By "unquaternized amino silicone" is meant, for the purposes of the present invention, an amino silicone which does not contain quaternized ammonium groups.

In other words, the amino silicones (s) used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention carry in their structure at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function but do not have a quaternary ammonium function.

Preferably, the amino silicon (s) used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least 4 silicon atoms in its structure.

[047] Throughout the following, silicone is defined according to the general meaning to any organosilicated polymers or oligomers of variable molecular weight, branched or cross-linked structure, obtained by polymerization and / or by polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, consisting essentially of a repetition of major units in which the silicon atoms are linked together by oxygen atoms (siloxane -Si-O-Si- bond), with eventually substituted hydrocarbon radicals being directly bonded. by means of a carbon atom to said silicon atoms. The most common hydrocarbon radicals are alkyl radicals, especially C1 -C10, and in particular methyl, fluoroalkyl radicals whose C1 -C10 alkyl moiety, aryl radicals and in particular phenyl.

The amino silicones used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention are preferably chosen from: (a) the compounds corresponding to the formula (IV) given below: (R1) to (T) 3-a-Si [OSi (T) 2] n- [OSi (T) b (R1) 2-b] m-OSi (T) 3-a- (R1) a where T is a hydrogen atom or a phenyl radical hydroxy (-OH) or alkyl with G1-Gs, preferably methyl or alkoxy with Gn-Gs, preferably methoxy a denotes 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, preferably 0, b denotes 0 or 1, and in particular 1, m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) may vary in particular from 1 to 2,000 and in particular from 50 to 150, and may denote a number from 0 to 1,999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m may denote a number from 1 to 2,000, and in particular from 1 to 10;

R1 is a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL wherein q is a number from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group selected from the groups: -N (R2} -CH2-CH2 -N (R2} 2; (R2} 2; wherein R2 may denote a hydrogen atom, a phenyl radical, a benzyl radical, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, for example a C1-C20 alkyl radical.

In particular, amino silicones corresponding to the definition of formula (IV) are chosen from compounds corresponding to the following formula (V): wherein R, R ', R', identical or different, designate an alkyl radical C 1 -C 4, preferably CH 3, a C 1 -C 4 alkoxy radical, preferably methoxy, or OH A represents a C 3 -C 8 straight or branched alkylene radical, preferably C 3 -C 6, m and n are integers which depend on molecular weight and whose sum is between 1 and 2,000.

According to a first possibility, R, R ', R', identical or different, represent a C1 -C4 alkyl hydroxyl alkyl radical, A represents a C3 emen alkylene radical such that the weight average molecular weight of the between about 5,000 and 500,000 Compounds of this type are named in the CTFA dictionary "amodimethicone".

According to a second possibility, R, R ', R ", identical or different, represent a C1-C4 alkoxy or hydroxyl radical, wherein at least one of the radicals R or R" is an alkoxy radical and A represents a C3 alkylene radical. The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio is preferably from 0.2 / 1 to 0.4 / 1 and is advantageously 0.3 / 1. In addition, they are such that the weight average molecular weight of the compound is from 2,000 to 106. More particularly, n is from 0 to 999 and is from 1 to 1000, and the sum of nor is from 1 to 1000. 1000

In this category of compounds, mention may be made, among others, of the product Belsil® ADM 652, marketed by Wacker.

[053] According to a third possibility, R, R ", different, represent a C1-C4 alkoxy or hydroxyl radical, wherein at least one of the radicals R, R" is an alkoxy radical, R 'represents a methyl radical and A represents a C3 alkylene radical. The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio is preferably from 1 / 0.8 to 1 / 1.1, and is advantageously equal to 1 / 0.95. Furthermore, m and n are such that the weight average molecular weight of the compound is between 2,000 and 2,000,000. More particularly, n is from 0 to 999 and m is from 1 to 1000, the sum of n is from 1 to 1000.

More particularly, mention may be made of the FluidWR® 1300 product marketed by Wacker.

[055] It should be noted that the molecular weight of these silicones is determined by gel permeation chromatography (room temperature, polystyrene standard; μ draw columns; THF eluent; flow rate 1 mm / m; 200 pl of a solution). 0.5% by weight of silicone are injected into THF and detection by refractometry and UV-metry is performed).

[056] One product that corresponds to the definition of formula (IV) is in particular the polymer named in the CTFA dictionary "trimethylsilylamodimethicone", which corresponds to formula (VI) given below: in which neither have the meanings given above according to formula (IV).

Such compounds are described, for example, in EP 95238; a compound of formula (IV) is for example sold under the designation Q2-8220 by OSI. (b) amino silicones of formula (VII): in which: - the same or different R 1, Ra, R 3 and R * designate a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group, - R s denotes a C 1-4 alkyl radical C4 or a hydroxyl group, - π is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and where x is chosen such that the amine index is from 0.01 to 1 meq / g, [058] Other amino silicones may be used in the present invention as the product indicated in the CTFA dictionary under the name POLYSILICONE-9.

Preferably, the amino silicones (s) used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention are chosen from the silicones corresponding to formula (VI).

The amine or silicones used in the composition according to the present invention may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably in an amount ranging from 0.2 to 5% by weight. and most preferably in an amount ranging from 0.3 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may also comprise one or more organic acids.

[062] Organic acid means any nonpolymeric organic compound having one or more acid functions chosen from the carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, phosphoric acid functions.

Preferably, the organic acid is not a surfactant.

More preferably still, the molecular weight of the organic acid is less than 250, more preferably still less than 200.

[065] Organic acids may be amino acids.

The organic acid or acids are preferably chosen from acetic acid, propanoic acid, butanoic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, glycolic acid, ascorbic acid, maleic acid, phthalic acid, succinic acid, taurine, tartaric acid, arginine, glycine, glucuronic acid, gluconic acid and citric acid.

More preferably still, the organic acids according to the present invention are carboxylic acids and preferably alpha hydroxylated carboxylic acids or AHA.

Even more preferably, the organic acid used in the composition according to the present invention is lactic acid and citric acid and preferably lactic acid.

[069] In the composition, the organic acid may be in free or salified form.

The organic acid or acids which may be used in the composition according to the present invention may be present in a free acid content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 0.1 to 8% by weight, and most preferably at a content ranging from 0.2 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention may also comprise one or more additional surfactants chosen from amphoteric and nonionic surfactants.

The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants usable in the present invention may in particular be derived from secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, wherein the aliphatic group is a straight or branched chain having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least an anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group. Mention may also be made of alkyl (Ce-20) betaines, sulfobetaines, (C8-20 alkyl) starch (comβ-β alkyl) [073] betaines or (Ce-alkyl) starch (Ce-alkyl) -8) sulfobetaines.

Amine derivatives include products marketed under the name MIRANOL® as described in US-2,528,378 and US-2,781,354 and classified in the CTFA dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982, under Amphocarboxy-glycinate and Amphocarboxypropionate, with respective structures (VIII) and (IX): Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N (Rb) (Rc) (CH2COO) (VIII) in which: Ra denotes an alkyl group derived from an acid R- COOH present in hydrolyzed copra oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group, R b denotes a beta-hydroxyethyl group, and R c represents a carboxymethyl group; and Ra-CONHCH2CH2 -N (B) (B ') (IX) wherein: B represents -CH2CH2OX'; Representa 'represents - (CH2) z - Y', where z = 1 or 2, X 'denotes the group -CH2CH2-COOH or a hydrogen atom, Y' denotes -COOH or the group -CH2 - CHOH - SO3H, Ra 'means an alkyl group of a Ra'-COOH acid present in copra oil or hydrolysed flaxseed oil, an alkyl group, in particular with C17 and its iso, an unsaturated C17 group.

[075] These compounds are classified in the dictionary CTFA, 5th edition, 1993, under the names of disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauranphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium caprohydropropionate, propanoicpropionate, disodium lapropionate

As an example, cocoamphodiacetate marketed by RHODIA under the tradename MIRANOL® C2M concentrate may be cited.

Among the above-mentioned amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, the (C8-20 alkyl) betaines, the (C8-20 alkyl) starch (C6-8 alkyl) betaines and mixtures thereof are preferably used.

When they are present, the amount of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s) preferably ranges within a range from 0.1 to 15 wt%, preferably from 0.5 to 10 wt%, and more. preferably further from 1% to 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Examples of additional nonionic surfactants usable in the compositions of the present invention are described for example in "Handbook of Surfactants" by M.R. PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178. They are chosen in particular from alcohols, alpha diols, (C1-20) alkyl phenols or polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty acids, which have a fatty chain having, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms. wherein the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups may vary in particular from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups may vary in particular from 2 to 30.

Ethylene oxide and propylene oxide condensates with fatty alcohols may also be cited; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides having on average 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular from 1.5 to 4, ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters containing from 2 to 30 units of ethylene oxide, sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, polyglycoside (C6-24 alkyl) derivatives, N- (C6-24 alkyl) derivatives glucamine, amine oxides such as (C10-14 alkyl) amines oxides or N- (C10-14 acyl) aminopropylmorpholine oxides.

When present, the amount of the additional nonionic surfactant (s) preferably ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the total amount of surfactants in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention ranges from 3 to 50 wt%, more preferably from 5 to 30 wt%, more particularly from 8 to 20 wt%, by weight. to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[083] The cosmetic composition may also comprise one or more cationic polymers.

[084] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cationic polymer" means any polymer that contains cationic groups and / or ionizable groups in cationic groups.

The cationic polymers optionally present in the composition according to the present invention may be chosen from among those already known per se because they improve the cosmetic properties of the hair, that is to say, particularly those described in the EP patent application. -A-337 354 and in FR-2 270 846, FR-2 383 660, FR-2 598 611, FR-2 470 596 and FR-2 519 863.

Preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those containing units bearing primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups which may be part of the polymeric backbone or carried by a side substituent directly attached thereto.

The cationic polymers used generally have a number average molecular weight of from about 500 to about 5,106, and preferably from about 103 to about 3,106.

[088] Among cationic polymers, polyamine, polyaminoamide and quaternary polyammonium type polymers may be cited more particularly.

[089] These are known products. They are described in particular in FR-2 505 348 or FR-2 542 997. These polymers include: (1) Homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and having at least one of the following units of formula (X), (XI), (XII) or (XIII): in which: Ra, identical or different 'means a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical; A, identical or different, represents a straight or branched alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms; FU, Rs, Re, identical or different, represent an alkyl group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl group, and preferably an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms; R1 and Ra, identical or different, represent hydrogen or an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms and preferably methyl or ethyl; X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

Particular mention may be made of the homopolymer of ethyl trimethyl ammonium methacrylate chloride.

The polymers of the family (1) may further contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be selected from the family of lower alkyl substituted alkyl (C1-6) acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides. C4), acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyl lactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters.

Thus, among these family (1) polymers, the following can be mentioned: - copolymers of dimethyl sulfate quaternized acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate or dimethyl halide, such as sold under the name HERCOFLOC by HERCULES, the acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymers described, for example, in patent application EP-A-080976, and sold under the name BINA QUAT P 100 by CIBA GEIGY, - the acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate copolymer sold RETEN by HERCULES, - quaternized or not quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as products sold under the name "GAFQUAT" by the ISP such as "GAFQUAT 734" or "GAFQUAT 755", or then the products called “COPOLYMER 845, 958 and 937”. These polymers are described in detail in FR-2,077,143 and FR-2,393,573, - the dimethyl amino ethyl vinyl caprolactam / vinyl pyrrolidone methacrylate terpolymers as the product sold under the GAFFIX VC 713 designation by the ISP, - the copolymers pyrrolidone vinyl / methacrylamidopropyl dimethylamine, marketed in particular under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP, quaternized vinyl pyrrolidone / methacrylamide copolymers as the product sold under the name "GAFQUAT HS 100" by ISP. - cross-linked polymers of methacryloyloxy (C1-4) trialkyl (C1-4) alkylammonium salts such as polymers obtained by homopolymerization of the methyl chloride quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate or by copolymerization of the quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate acrylamide with methyl chloride; that homo or copolymerization is followed by cross-linking by an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylene bis acrylamide. More particularly a cross-linked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride (20/80 by weight) dispersion copolymer may be used which contains 50% by weight of said mineral oil copolymer. This dispersion is marketed under the name “SALCARE® SC 92” by CIBA. A cross-linked methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium homopolymer which contains approximately 50% by weight of homopolymer in mineral oil or a liquid ester may also be used. These dispersions are marketed under the names “SALCARE®SC 95” and “SALCARE® SC 96” by CIBA. (2) The cellulose ether derivatives having quaternary ammonium groups described in FR-1 492 597, and in particular polymers marketed under the names "UCARE" POLYMER JR "(JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or" (LR 400, LR 30M) by ARMERCHOL. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary hydroxyethylcellulose ammonium reacted with a trimethylammonium substituted epoxide. (3) Cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and particularly described in US 4,131,576, such as hydroxyalkyl celluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted in particular with a methacrylmidopropyl trimethylammonium methacrylethyl trimethylammonium salt -dialylammonium.

[093] Marketed products meeting this definition are more particularly products sold under the designation “Celquat® L 200” and “Celquat® H 100 by National Starch. (4) Cationic guar gums more particularly described in US patents 3,589,578 and 4,031,307, such as guar gums containing trialkylammonium cationic groups. Guar gums modified by a salt (e.g. chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium are used, for example.

These products are marketed in particular under the trade names JAGUAR C 13 S, JAGUAR C 15, Jaguar C 17 or JAGUAR C162 by RHODIA. (5) Polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and straight or branched chain divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals, possibly interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen or aromatic or heterocyclic cycles, as well as oxidation and / or quaternization of these polymers. Such polymers are described in particular in FR-2 162 025 and 2 280 361. (6) Water-soluble polyaminoamides, prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; such polyaminoamides may be crosslinked by an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bishalohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bishalohyldiamine, a bis- alkyl halide or an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a reactive bifunctional compound with a bishalohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bishalohyldiamine, an alkyl bishalide, an epihalo -hydrin, a diepoxide or a bisunsaturated derivative; wherein the crosslinking agent is used in ratios ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per polyamino amide amino group; Such polyaminoamides may be alcoholized or have one or more quaternized tertiary amine functions. Such polymers are described in particular in FR-2,252,840 and FR-2,368,508. (7) Polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation by bifunctional agents. For example, adipic acid dialkylaminohydroxyalkyl dialoylene triamine polymers may be cited in which the alkyl radical has from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably designates methyl, ethyl, propyl. Such polymers are described in particular in FR-1 583 363.

Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylene triamine polymers sold under the name “Cartaretine® F, F4 or F8” by Sandoz. (8) Polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amino groups and at least one secondary amino group having a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms . The molar relationship between polyalkylene polylamine and dicarboxylic acid is between 0.8: 1 and 1.4: 1; the polyaminoamide resulting from this reaction is reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin to the secondary amino group of polyaminoamide comprised between 0.5: 1 and 1.8: 1. These polymers are described in particular in US patents. 3,227,615 and US 2,961,347.

[095] Polymers of this type are marketed in particular under the name “Hercosett 57” by Hercules Inc. or under the name “PD 170” or “Delsette® 101” by Hercules for the adipic acid / epoxypropyl / diethylene copolymer -triamine. (9) Alkyl dialyl amine or dialkyl dialyl ammonium cyclopolymers as the homopolymers or copolymers having as their main chain constituent units corresponding to formulas (XIV) or (XV): formulas in which ket are 0 or 1, where the sum k + t is equal to 1; R9 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; R7 and Re independently of one another denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably has 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a lower (C1-C4) amidoalkyl group or R 7e Re may together designate with the nitrogen atom to which heterocyclic groups such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl are attached; R 7 and R 5 independently of each other preferably designate an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; Y- is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate. These polymers are described in particular in FR 2 080 759 and in their certificate of addition 2 190 406.

[096] Among the polymers defined above, mention may be made more particularly of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer sold under the name “Merquat 100” by NALCO {and its low weight average molecular weight counterparts} and diallyl dimethylammonium chloride copolymers and acrylamide marketed under the designation “MERQUAT 550", “MERQUAT 7SPR” (10) Quaternary diammonium polymers containing repeating units corresponding to the formula; VII) formula (XVI) wherein; R10, R11, R12 and R13, identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic, or arylaliphatic radicals containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic groups, or R10, Rn, Ria and R13 together or separately constitute with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached. heterocycles which optionally contain a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or R10, R11, R12 and R13 represent an alkyl radical. C1 -C10 straight or branched-substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -GO-O-Rm-D or -CO-NH-Rm-D group where Rh is an alkylene and D a quaternary ammonium group ;

A1 and Bi represent polymethylene groups containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, attached to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic cycles, or one or more oxygen, sulfur or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureide, amide or ester groups, and X- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;

A 1, R 10 and R 12 may form with the two nitrogen atoms to which a piperazine cycle is attached; furthermore if A 1 denotes a straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, Bi may also designate a group - (CH 2) n -CO-D-OC- (CH 2) n- wherein D denotes: a) a remainder where Z denotes a straight or branched hydrocarbon radical, or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas: - (CH 2 -CH 2-0) x -CH 2 -CH 2 - [CH 2 -CH (CH3) -0] y-CH2-CH (CH3) - where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a single definite degree of polymerization, or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization. ; b) a bis-secondary diamine moiety as a piperazine derivative; c) a bis-primary diamine moiety of the formula -NH - Y - NH- wherein Y denotes a straight or branched hydrocarbon radical, or the divalent radical -CH 2 -CH 2 -S-S-CH 2 -CH 2 -; d) a ureylene group of the formula: -NH-CO-NH-;

Preferably, X- is an anion such as chloride or bromide.

[098] These polymers have a number average molecular weight generally between 1000 and 100000.

Polymers of this type are described in particular in FR 2 320 330, FR 2 270 846, FR 2 316 271, FR 2 336 434 and FR 2 413 907 and in US 2 273 780, US 2 375 853, US 2 388 614 US $ 454 547, US 3 206 462, US 2 261 002, US 2 271 378, US 3 874 870, US 4 001 432, US 3 929 990, US 3 966 904, US 4 005 193, US 4 025 617 , US 4,025,627, US 4,025,653, US 4,026,945 and US 4,027,020.

More particularly, polymers consisting of repeating units corresponding to the following formula (XVI) may be used: (XVI) wherein R 1, R 1, R 12 and R 13, identical or different 'designate an alkyl radical or hydroxyalkyl having from about 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and n are integers ranging from about 2 to about 20 and X- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid. Particular mention may be made of the MEXOMERE PO marketed by CHIMEX, (11) Quaternary polyammonium polymers consisting of repeating units of formula (XVII): where p is an integer ranging from approximately 1 to 6, D may be null or may represent a group - (GHâJr-CO- where r denotes a number of 4 or 7, X is an anion.

Such polymers may be prepared according to the processes described in US 4,157,388, US 4,702,906, US 4,719,282. They are described in particular in EP-A-122 324.

[0101] These include, for example, the products “Mirapol A 15”, “Mirapol AD1”, “Mirapol AZ1” and “Mirapol 175” sold by Miranol. (12) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole such as, for example, products marketed under the traditions Luviquat FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by B.A.S.F. Such polymers may also comprise other monomers such as diallyl dialkyl ammonium halides. Particular mention may be made of the product marketed under the name Luviquat Sensation by B.A.S.F. (13) Polyamines such as Polyquart H sold by Henkel, referred to as “POLYETHYLENEGLYCOL (15) TALLOW POLYAMINE” in the CTFA dictionary or oxyethylenated copra polyamines (15 OE).

Other cationic polymers usable in the present invention are polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium moieties, polyamine and epichlorodrine condensates, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.

Among all the cationic polymers which may be used in the present invention, the polymers of the families (1), (2), (4), (9), (10) and (12) are preferably used.

Preferably, the cationic polymer (s) are chosen from cationic celluloses and cationic guar gums.

Preferably, the cationic polymer (s) are chosen from cationic celluloses, cationic guar gums and quaternary vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl imidazole polymers optionally associated with other monomers.

More preferably, the cationic polymer (s) are chosen from hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted in particular with a methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, guar-dimethylammonium ammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salt. vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole copolymer and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride.

The content of cationic polymers (s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 1%. and most preferably from 0.15 to 0.5% relative to the total weight of the composition.

By cosmetically acceptable means is meant a medium compatible with keratin fibers such as hair.

The cosmetically acceptable medium is water or a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents chosen from lower C1-C4 alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tertiary butanol or n. butanol; polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol and polyethylene glycols; and their mixtures.

The pH of the compositions according to the present invention generally ranges from 3 to 11 and preferably from 5 to 10, more preferably from 7 to 10.

The composition according to the present invention may further comprise one or more classic additives well known in the art, such as natural or synthetic thickeners or viscosity regulators; C12-C30 fatty alcohols; ceramides; oily fatty esters such as isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, cetyl palmitate and stearyl stearate; mineral, vegetable or synthetic oils such as α-olefins or palm oil; vitamins or provitamins; amphoteric polymers; pH stabilizing agents, preservatives; silicones other than the amino silicones of the present invention and dyes.

The thickening agent (s) may be chosen from cellulosic thickening agents, for example hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, guar gum and derivatives thereof, for example hydroxypropyl guar, marketed by RHODIA under reference. JAGUAR HP 105, gums of microbial origin such as xanthan gum and scleroglucan gum, synthetic thickening agents such as cross-linked acrylic acid or acrylamidopropane sulfonic homopolymers, for example carbomer, non-ionic associative polymers, anionic, cationic or amphoteric, such as polymers marketed under the names PEMULEN TR1 or TR2 by GOODRICH, SALCARE SC90 by CIBA, ACULYN 22, 28, 33, 44 or 46 by ROHM & HAAS and ELFACOS T210 and T212 by AKZO.

The person skilled in the art will take great care in choosing any additives and their amount so that they do not impair the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

Such additives are generally present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the cosmetic compositions of the present invention are transparent or translucent, i.e. such compositions have a transmittance at 600 nanometers greater than 85%, preferably greater than 90% and most preferably even greater than 94%.

The compositions according to the present invention may be used as shampoos for shampooing and conditioning the hair and are preferably applied therein to generally damp hair in effective amounts to wash them and the foam generated. by hand rubbing or rubbing can then be eliminated after a possible rest time, by rinsing with water, and this operation can be repeated one or more times. [0117] Thus, the present invention also deals with the use of a composition. as described above as shampoo for cleaning and conditioning keratin fibers, in particular keratin fibers such as hair.

Another object of the present invention is a process of cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, such as hair, which consists in applying an effective amount of a composition as described above to said fibers, and preferably in rinsing after a possible rest time, In particular, the process of cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers is a process of washing and conditioning keratin fibers, in particular of hair.

The following example serves to illustrate the present invention.

Examples Example 1 Composition (A) according to the present invention was prepared from the ingredients indicated in the following table whose amounts are expressed as a percentage by weight of the product relative to the total weight of the composition. sold under the tradename KATON CG by ROHM and HAAS (d) sold under the tradename ANTIL 141 LIQUID by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT, (3) sold under the tradename POLIQUTA 400 KC by KCI, <4) sold under the tradename DC2 8566 AMINOFLUID by DOW CORNING, (5) sold under the name XIAMETER OFS 6011 SILANE by DOW CORNING, (6> sold under the name MIRATAINE BB / FLA by RHODIA, m sold under the name PROCETYL AWS-LG by CRODA, (8) sold oom ΑΚΥΡΟ RLM 45 CA by KAO, <9) sold under the name EMPILAN CIS by HUNTSMAN, <10) sold under the name TEXAPON AOS 225UP by COGNIS

A composition is obtained which is clear and stable over time.

Applied as shampoo, composition (A) gives mass, volume as well as a satisfying soft touch to the hair.

Example 2 Composition (B) according to the present invention was prepared from the ingredients listed in the following table whose amounts are expressed as a percentage by weight of active materials relative to the total weight of the composition.

m sold under the tradename JAGUAR C13S by RHODIA (2) sold under the tradename GARBOPOL 980 POLIMER by LUBRIZOL, sold under the tradename DC2-8299 CATIONIC EMULSION by DOW CORNING, W sold under the tradename XIAMETER OFS 6011 SILANE by DOW CORNING, sold under the name MIRATAINE BB / FLA by RHODIA, sold under the name EMPILAN CIS by HUNTSMAN (7) sold under the name Texapon AOS 225UP by COGNIS

A pearled composition which is stable over time has also been obtained.

Applied as shampoo, composition (B) gives mass, volume as well as a satisfactory soft touch to the hair.

Claims

Claims (12)

1. COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR CLEANING AND CONDITIONING KERATIN FIBERS, in particular human keratin fibers, such as hair, characterized in that it comprises in a cosmetically acceptable medium: (i) from 0,01 to 5% by weight; with respect to the total weight of said composition of one or more organic silicon compounds selected from silanes comprising a silicon atom, said organic silicon compounds further comprising one or more basic chemical functions and one or more hydroxyl groups . or hydrolysable per molecule; wherein said organic silicon compounds are selected from the compounds of formula (I): wherein: R4 represents a halogen, an OR 'or R'i group; Rs represents a halogen, an OR 'or R' 2 group; Re represents a halogen, a group OR '"or R 3; R1, R2, Rs, R \ R", R' ", R'1, R'e, Rs represent, independently of each other, a group saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon, linear or branched, optionally carrying additional chemical groups, where R1, R5, R1 "R" and R "may further denote hydrogen, and at least two of the groups R4, R5 and R6 respectively denote OR ', OR ”And OR '”, and at least two of the groups R \ R "and R"' are different from hydrogen; and (ii) one or more anionic surfactants selected from alkylsulfates, alkylsulfates and alkyl ethercarboxylates, and mixtures thereof, in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, amine or amino alcohol salts; and (iii) one or more different non-quaternized amino silicones are selected from: (a) compounds corresponding to formula (IV), (R 1) a (T) 3 Si [OSi (T) 2] n- [OSi (T) b (R1) 2 Jm-OSi (T) 3.a- (R1 ^ (IV) wherein: T is a hydrogen atom, or a phenyl, hydroxyl (-OH), or C1 -C6 alkyl radical preferably methyl or C1 -C6 alkoxy, preferably methoxy a denotes 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, preferably 0; b denotes 0 or 1, and in particular 1; whereas the sum (n + m) may vary, in particular, from 1 to 2,000, and in particular from 50 to 150, and may denote a number from 0 to 1,999, and in particular from 49 to 149, may denote a number from 1 to 2,000, and especially from 1 to 10, R 1 is a monovalent radical of the formula -CqH 2qL, wherein q is a number from 2 to 8 and L is an amino group selected from the groups: -N ( R 2) -CH 2 -CH 2 -N (R 2) 2; N (R 2) 2, wherein R 2 may denote a hydrogen atom, a phenyl radical, a benzyl radical, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, for example a C1-C20 alkyl radical; and (b) amino silicones of formula (VII): wherein: R 1, R 5, R 3 and R 4, identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group; R5 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group; - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5; - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5; and wherein x is chosen such that the amine index is between 0.01 and 1 meq / g; and (c) POLYSILICON-9. COSMETIC COMPOSITION according to claim 1, characterized in that the basic chemical functions of the organic silicon compound are chosen from the primary, secondary or tertiary amines. COSMETIC COMPOSITION according to either of Claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the hydrolysable groups are selected from the alkoxy, aryloxy and halogen groups. COSMETIC COMPOSITION according to claim 3, characterized in that the groups Rt, R2, R'1, R'z, R'3, R ", Rm, R" i, R '! 2 are selected from C 1 -C 12 alkyl, C 1 to C 4 aryl, C 1 to C 4 alkyl, C to C 14 aryl, and C 1 to C 4 aryl-C 1 to C 6 alkyl. COSMETIC COMPOSITION according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the organic compound or silicon compounds are chosen from the compounds of formula (III): wherein R 1 radicals are identical or different, are chosen from C1 -C6 alkyl radicals and n is an integer from 1 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4. COSMETIC COMPOSITION according to claim 1, characterized in that the amino silicone corresponding to formula (V) is chosen from the compounds corresponding to the following formula: wherein R, R \ R ", identical or different means a C1 -C4 alkyl radical, preferably CHs, a C1 -C4 alkoxy radical, preferably methoxy or OH A represents a straight or branched alkylene radical with Ca-Cs, preferably Ca-Ce ; men are integers that depend on molecular weight and whose sum is between 1 and 2,000. COSMETIC COMPOSITION according to claim 1, characterized in that the amino silicone of formula (IV) is the silicone termed "trimethylsilylamodimethicone", which corresponds to the following formula (VI): in which neither have the meanings given above according to formula (IV). COSMETIC COMPOSITION according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it further comprises one or more organic acids. COSMETIC COMPOSITION according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it further comprises one or more additional surfactants chosen from amphoteric and nonionic surfactants; COSMETIC COMPOSITION according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it further comprises one or more cationic polymers. COSMETIC TREATMENT PROCESS OF KERATIN FIBERS, in particular human keratin fibers, such as hair, characterized in that the cosmetic composition as described in one of claims 1 to 10 is applied to said fibers and is rinsed. then after a possible rest time. Use of a composition as described in one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it is as shampoo for cleaning and conditioning keratin fibers.