EP2565309B1 - Procédé de tricotage d'élargissements et tissu tricoté - Google Patents

Procédé de tricotage d'élargissements et tissu tricoté Download PDF

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Publication number
EP2565309B1
EP2565309B1 EP12006193.2A EP12006193A EP2565309B1 EP 2565309 B1 EP2565309 B1 EP 2565309B1 EP 12006193 A EP12006193 A EP 12006193A EP 2565309 B1 EP2565309 B1 EP 2565309B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
knitting
stitch
flechage
row
widening
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Active
Application number
EP12006193.2A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP2565309A2 (fr
EP2565309A3 (fr
Inventor
Kazuyoshi Okamoto
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Shima Seiki Mfg Ltd
Original Assignee
Shima Seiki Mfg Ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
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Publication date
Application filed by Shima Seiki Mfg Ltd filed Critical Shima Seiki Mfg Ltd
Publication of EP2565309A2 publication Critical patent/EP2565309A2/fr
Publication of EP2565309A3 publication Critical patent/EP2565309A3/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP2565309B1 publication Critical patent/EP2565309B1/fr
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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
    • D04B1/108—Gussets, e.g. pouches or heel or toe portions
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D04B1/246—Upper torso garments, e.g. sweaters, shirts, leotards

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a flechage knitting method of carrying out flechage knitting including a forward knitting and a backward knitting, and a knitted fabric having a portion knitted by the flechage knitting method.
  • a flechage knitting including a forward knitting and a backward knitting which knitting width is narrower than a base stitch row, is sometimes carried out following in a wale direction of the base stitch row held on knitting needles.
  • the flechage knitting may be applied to form a neckline portion 41.
  • a hole may appear to be formed at the position of the flechage end in the knitted fabric when the knitted fabric is knitted using a knitting yarn thinner than an appropriate yarn count number. Furthermore, a hole may appear to be formed at the position of the flechage end in the knitted fabric depending on a type of knitting structure configuring the knitted fabric.
  • a flechage knitting method of the present invention is a flechage knitting method for carrying out flechage knitting including a forward knitting and a backward knitting, which knitting width is shorter than a base stitch row, following in a wale direction of the base stitch row held on knitting needles using a flat knitting machine including at least a front and a back needle bed, stitches being transferrable between the front and back needle beds.
  • the flechage knitting method of the present invention is characterized by performing split knitting at least one of when knitting a termination stitch of the forward knitting and when knitting a starting end stitch of the backward knitting; and overlapping a widening stitch formed by the split knitting with a returning point stitch, which is a stitch in a forming direction side of the forward knitting of the widening stitch.
  • the "split knitting” refers to the knitting of increasing the number of stitches by transferring an existing stitch held on one of the front and back needle beds to the opposing other needle bed while forming a new stitch following in a wale direction of the existing stitch to be transferred (see e.g., Japanese Patent No. 2604653 ).
  • the existing stitch transferred from one needle bed to the other needle bed by performing the split knitting is referred to as "widening stitch”.
  • the "returning point stitch” in the flechage knitting method of the present invention may be the stitch of the base stitch row or may be the stitch knitted by the forward knitting.
  • the widening stitch 4 is overlapped with the returning point stitch 5, the returning point stitch 5 being the stitch of the base stitch row 1 (stitch of the knitting needle E of the front needle bed FB).
  • the widening stitch 4 is overlapped with the returning point stitch 5, the returning point stitch 5 being the stitch knitted by the forward knitting (stitch formed on the knitting needle D of the FB in S5).
  • the split knitting is carried out when knitting the starting end stitch of the backward knitting, and the split knitting is not carried out when knitting the termination stitch of the forward knitting.
  • a portion to perform the flechage knitting is a neckline portion of a knitwear.
  • a knitted fabric of the present invention is a knitted fabric having a flechage knitting portion including a forward knitting stitch row formed following in a wale direction of a base stitch row and a backward knitting stitch row formed following in a wale direction of the forward knitting stitch row, the knitted fabric knitted using a flat knitting machine including at least a front and a back needle bed, stitches being transferrable between the front and back needle beds.
  • the knitted fabric of the present invention is characterized in that at least one of a termination stitch of the forward knitting stitch row and a starting end stitch of the backward knitting stitch row is formed by split knitting; and a widening stitch formed by the split knitting is overlapped with a returning point stitch, which is a stitch in a forming direction side of the forward knitting stitch row of the widening stitch.
  • the split knitting is performed at the termination of the forward knitting or the starting end of the backward knitting, and the widening stitch formed by the split knitting is used in place of the tuck of the flechage knitting of the prior art.
  • the split knitting includes transferring the existing stitch held on the needle bed to the opposing needle bed while forming a new stitch following the existing stitch, where the existing stitch to become the widening stitch is held on the needle bed.
  • the number of times to perform the flechage knitting can be increased compared to the flechage knitting using tuck.
  • a knitted fabric of the present invention in which a hole is less likely to form at the flechage end transitioning from the forward knitting to the backward knitting can be knitted.
  • the hole is less likely to form at the flechage end in the knitted fabric of the present invention because the knitting yarn configuring the widening stitch is arranged to fill the gap of the flechage end (see Fig. 3 of the first embodiment described later).
  • the appearance of the portion transitioning from the forward knitting to the backward knitting can be enhanced by performing the split knitting only in the backward knitting of the flechage knitting method of the present invention.
  • a flat knitting machine used for the knitting is a two-bed flat knitting machine including a front and a back needle bed extending in a transverse direction and disposed opposite to each other in a cross direction, in which the back needle bed can be racked in the transverse direction and stitches can be transferred between the front and back needle beds.
  • the flat knitting machine used for the knitting may, of course, be a two-bed flat knitting machine including a needle bed dedicated for transfer, or a four-bed flat knitting machine.
  • the knitwear 100 shown in Fig. 1 is a tubular knitted fabric including a front body 20 and a back body 30, where a neck portion 40 is formed at the neckline portion 41.
  • the front body 20 and the back body 30 are first knitted to a position 50 at a lower end of the neck portion 40.
  • the contour of the neckline portion 41 is then formed while knitting the front body 20 and the back body 30 by C-shaped flechage knitting, and lastly, the neck portion 40 is knitted continuing to the stitches configuring the neckline portion 41.
  • the flechage knitting of the present invention is used to form the contour of the neckline portion 41.
  • Fig. 2 is a knitting step diagram for knitting the neckline portion 41 on a right side (left side in the drawing) of the front body 20 of Fig. 1 .
  • "S + number” shown in the left column of Fig. 2 indicates the number of the knitting step
  • an arrow in the left and right direction with "K” shown in the right column indicates performing knitting with the movement of a yarn feeder
  • an arrow in a diagonal direction indicates a direction of transfer.
  • o in a middle column where the actual knitting state is shown indicates a stitch held on a needle bed (front needle bed: FB, back needle bed: BB)
  • ⁇ indicates a stitch knitted in each knitting step
  • ⁇ indicates a yarn feeder.
  • S1 of Fig. 2 shows a state in which a stitch row (base stitch row 1) configuring the front body 20 is held on knitting needles A to F of the FB.
  • This state is a state in which the knitting of the position 50 at the lower end of the neck portion 40 in the knitwear 100 shown in Fig. 1 is finished.
  • the flechage knitting including a forward knitting and a backward knitting is carried out from the state of S1 to form the neckline portion 41.
  • the yarn feeder is moved towards a right direction in a plane of drawing, and the forward knitting for forming stitches on the knitting needles A to D of the FB is carried out to knit a forward knitting stitch row 2 following in a wale direction of the base stitch row 1.
  • the yarn feeder is moved towards a left direction in the plane of drawing, and the backward knitting for forming stitches on the knitting needles D to A of the FB is carried out to knit a backward knitting stitch row 3 following in a wale direction of the forward knitting stitch row 2.
  • a knitting i.e., split knitting
  • transferring a termination stitch 29 of the forward knitting in S2 to the knitting needle D of the BB while forming the starting end stitch 31 following in the wale direction of the termination stitch 29 is carried out.
  • a widening stitch 4 (termination stitch 29 of the forward knitting performed in S2) formed on the knitting needle D of the BB in S3 is overlapped with a returning point stitch 5, which is a stitch of the base stitch row 1 held on the knitting needle E of the FB, to form a double stitch 6 on the knitting needle E.
  • the returning point stitch 5 is not particularly limited as long as it is a stitch in a forming direction of the forward knitting stitch row 2 (right direction in the plane of drawing) of the widening stitch 4, and for example, may be a stitch held on the knitting needle F of the FB.
  • the widening stitch 4 is overlapped on a back side (inner side of the knitwear 100) of the returning point stitch 5 so that the double stitch 6 does not stand out, but the widening stitch 4 may be overlapped on the front side of the returning point stitch 5 on purpose.
  • the line of the neckline portion 41 then may stand out in terms of design.
  • the flechage knitting including split kitting is further carried out similar to S2 to S4.
  • the position to perform the split knitting is shifted towards the left side in the plane of drawing.
  • the six stitches held on the knitting needles A to F of the FB in S4 are assumed as the base stitch row 1, the yarn feeder is moved in the right direction in the plane of drawing, and the forward knitting for forming the stitches on the knitting needles A to D of the FB is carried out to knit the forward knitting stitch row 2.
  • the position to form the termination stitch 29 of the forward knitting is the position of the knitting needle D of the FB, so that a new stitch is not formed following the double stitch 6 held on the knitting needle E of the FB, and the double stitch 6 is not fixed to the new stitch. If the double stitch 6 is fixed, the movement of the knitting yarn forming the double stitch 6 is restricted, and hence the stitch rows 2, 3 knitted in S5 and the following S6 are less likely to lower to the lower side of the needle bed gap.
  • the yarn feeder is moved in the left direction in the plane of drawing to carry out split knitting with the knitting needle C of the FB, and the backward knitting for forming stitches on the knitting needles B, A of the FB is carried out to knit the backward knitting stitch row 3.
  • the widening stitch 4 formed in S6 (stitch 28 formed on the knitting needle C of the FB in the forward knitting in S5 and transferred to the knitting needle C of the BB in the split knitting in S6) is overlapped with the stitch of the knitting needle D of the FB to form the double stitch 6 on the knitting needle D.
  • the position to form the termination stitch 29 of the forward knitting is the position of the knitting needle C of the FB so that the double stitch 6 formed in S7 is not fixed to the new stitch.
  • the knitting similar to S3 to S8 is repeated to form the contour of the neckline portion 41 while knitting the bodies 20, 30 shown in Fig. 1 .
  • FIG. 3 is a loop diagram of the flechage knitting portion 10 at a time point when S4 of Fig. 2 is terminated.
  • the flechage knitting portion 10 includes the forward knitting stitch row 2 formed following in the wale direction of the base stitch row 1, and the backward knitting stitch row 3 formed following in the wale direction of the forward knitting stitch row 2.
  • the starting end stitch 31 of the backward knitting stitch row 3 is knitted by split knitting targeting on the termination stitch 29 of the forward knitting stitch row 2, where the widening stitch 4 (termination stitch 29 of the forward knitting stitch row 2 herein) formed by the split knitting is overlapped with the returning point stitch 5, which is the stitch in the forming direction side of the forward knitting stitch row 2 ⁇ of the widening stitch 4.
  • the widening stitch 4 overlapped with the returning point stitch 5 is lowered to the lower side of the needle bed gap (correspond to the lower side in the plane of drawing) by the starting end stitch 31, and a sufficient yarn length is ensured between the widening stitch 4 and the starting end stitch 31.
  • the widening stitch 4 is less likely to inhibit the subsequent flechage knitting.
  • the knitted fabric portion held on the knitting needles A to D of Fig. 3 is lowered to the lower side of the needle bed gap.
  • the knitting yarn is fed from the widening stitch 4 towards the starting end stitch 31, and hence the forward knitting will not be inhibited. Since the flechage knitting is less likely to be inhibited, the number of times to perform the flechage knitting can be increased compared to the prior art (flechage knitting using tuck), and the knitwear 100 with deep neckline portion 41 can be knitted.
  • the knitting yarn configuring the widening stitch 4 is arranged to fill the gap of the flechage end transitioning from the forward knitting to the backward knitting, so that a hole is less likely to form at the flechage end even when the knitted fabric portion of the loop diagram is pulled in the knitting width direction (left and right direction in the plane of drawing).
  • the split knitting is carried out in the backward knitting, but the split knitting may be carried out in the forward knitting.
  • the split knitting may be carried out with the knitting needle D of the FB, and the widening stitch (stitch held on the knitting needle D of the FB in S1) formed then may be overlapped with the stitch of the knitting needle E of the FB.
  • the split knitting may be carried out in both the forward knitting and the backward knitting.
  • the split knitting when carrying out the forward knitting in S2, the split knitting may be carried out with the knitting needle D of the FB, the widening stitch (stitch held on the knitting needle D of the FB in S1) may be overlapped with the stitch of the knitting needle E of the FB, and then the backward knitting having the position of the knitting needle C of the FB as the starting end may be carried out.
  • the widening stitch (stitch formed on the knitting needle C of the FB in the forward knitting) formed in the backward knitting may be overlapped with the stitch of the knitting needle D of the FB.
  • the neckline portion 41 can be inclined every time the stitch row for one course lined in the knitting width direction is knitted, and the line of inclination can be beautifully finished.
  • the flechage knitting method of the present invention can be applied as long as it is a knitted fabric with a portion to perform the flechage knitting, and thus the target of application is not limited to the tubular knitted fabric.
  • the knitted fabric to apply the flechage knitting of the present invention may be a piece of non-tubular knitted fabric.
  • the portion to apply the flechage knitting is not limited to the neckline portion, and may be, for instance, a gore portion or a shoulder line portion.
  • the portion to apply the flechage knitting may be a structure pattern such as a rib structure (e.g., rib structure of 1 x 1, 2 x 2, 3 x 2) and the like.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)

Claims (4)

  1. Procédé de tricotage à élargissement pour réaliser un tricotage à élargissement comprenant un tricotage vers l'avant et un tricotage vers l'arrière, dont la largeur de tricotage est plus petite qu'une rangée de mailles de base (1), à la suite, dans une direction de colonne de mailles, de la rangée de mailles de base (1) maintenue sur des aiguilles à tricoter en utilisant une machine à tricoter à plat comprenant au moins une fonture avant et une fonture arrière, des mailles pouvant être transférées entre les fontures avant et arrière, le procédé étant caractérisé par :
    réaliser un tricotage à séparation dans au moins l'un du cas de tricotage d'une maille de terminaison (29) du tricotage vers l'avant et du cas de tricotage d'une maille d'extrémité de départ (31) du tricotage vers l'arrière pour former une maille d'élargissement ; et
    faire chevaucher la maille d'élargissement (4) formée par le tricotage à séparation avec une maille de point de retour (5), qui est une maille dans un côté de direction de formation du tricotage vers l'avant de la maille d'élargissement (4).
  2. Procédé de tricotage à élargissement selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que le tricotage à séparation est réalisé lors du tricotage de la maille d'extrémité de départ (31) du tricotage vers l'arrière, et le tricotage à séparation n'est pas réalisé lors du tricotage de la maille de terminaison (29) du tricotage vers l'avant.
  3. Procédé de tricotage à élargissement selon la revendication 1 ou 2, caractérisé en ce qu'une portion pour réaliser le tricotage à élargissement est une portion de décolleté (41) d'un vêtement tricoté (100).
  4. Tissu tricoté (100) comportant une portion de tricotage à élargissement (10) comprenant une rangée de mailles de tricotage vers l'avant (2) formée à la suite, dans une direction de colonnes de mailles, d'une rangée de mailles de base (1) et d'une rangée de mailles de tricotage de retour (3) formées à la suite dans une direction de colonnes de mailles de la rangée de mailles de tricotage vers l'avant (2), le tissu tricoté étant caractérisé en ce que :
    une maille d'élargissement est formée à partir d'au moins l'une d'une maille de terminaison (29) de la rangée de mailles de tricotage vers l'avant (2) et d'une maille d'extrémité de départ (31) de la rangée de mailles de tricotage vers l'arrière (3) ; et
    la maille d'élargissement (4) formée par le tricotage à séparation est superposée à une maille de point de retour (5), qui est une maille dans un côté de direction de formation de la rangée de mailles de tricotage vers l'avant (2) de la maille d'élargissement (4).
EP12006193.2A 2011-09-01 2012-08-31 Procédé de tricotage d'élargissements et tissu tricoté Active EP2565309B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP2011190825A JP5844578B2 (ja) 2011-09-01 2011-09-01 引き返し編成方法、および編地

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EP2565309A2 EP2565309A2 (fr) 2013-03-06
EP2565309A3 EP2565309A3 (fr) 2013-04-10
EP2565309B1 true EP2565309B1 (fr) 2015-06-03

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EP (1) EP2565309B1 (fr)
JP (1) JP5844578B2 (fr)
KR (1) KR101329124B1 (fr)
CN (1) CN102965802B (fr)

Families Citing this family (7)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP6104018B2 (ja) * 2013-04-03 2017-03-29 株式会社島精機製作所 分岐部を有する編地の編成方法
EP2835458B1 (fr) * 2013-08-08 2018-02-07 H. Stoll AG & Co. KG Procédé de fabrication d'un textile tricoté avec des ajours
CN105133166A (zh) * 2015-08-20 2015-12-09 广东溢达纺织有限公司 纬编罗纹织物的编织方法、纬编罗纹织物和衣服
JP6541621B2 (ja) * 2016-06-06 2019-07-10 株式会社島精機製作所 筒状編地の編成方法、および筒状編地
JP6932076B2 (ja) * 2017-12-21 2021-09-08 株式会社島精機製作所 編地の編成方法
JP7204500B2 (ja) * 2019-01-23 2023-01-16 株式会社島精機製作所 ニットシミュレーション方法及びニットシミュレーションシステム
JP7785654B2 (ja) * 2022-10-14 2025-12-15 株式会社島精機製作所 編地の編成方法

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JP2604653B2 (ja) 1991-09-21 1997-04-30 株式会社島精機製作所 リブ編みを有するポケット付き編地及びその編成方法
US6318131B1 (en) * 1998-11-10 2001-11-20 Shima Seiki Mfg., Ltd. Method of knitting 3-d shape knit fabric
JP3047008B1 (ja) * 1998-11-26 2000-05-29 株式会社島精機製作所 連結部が形成されたニット衣類の編成方法
WO2002066722A1 (fr) * 2001-02-19 2002-08-29 Shima Seiki Mfg., Ltd. Procede de tricotage de tissus
JP4503352B2 (ja) * 2004-05-25 2010-07-14 株式会社島精機製作所 編地の編成方法と編地並びに編成プログラム
JP4336287B2 (ja) * 2004-10-13 2009-09-30 株式会社島精機製作所 横編機で編まれたｖネックニットウエアおよびその編成方法
JP4336298B2 (ja) * 2004-12-09 2009-09-30 株式会社島精機製作所 編地の編成方法、編地を編成させるための編成プログラム
WO2009147815A1 (fr) * 2008-06-05 2009-12-10 株式会社島精機製作所 Procédé de tricotage partiel et tissu
JP5603779B2 (ja) * 2008-12-26 2014-10-08 株式会社島精機製作所 内増やし方法、および編地
WO2010084556A1 (fr) * 2009-01-23 2010-07-29 株式会社島精機製作所 Procédé pour tricoter un tissu tubulaire comprenant un décolleté, et tissu tubulaire comprenant un décolleté
JP5596014B2 (ja) * 2009-02-25 2014-09-24 株式会社島精機製作所 筒状編地およびその編成方法

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
CN102965802A (zh) 2013-03-13
EP2565309A2 (fr) 2013-03-06
JP5844578B2 (ja) 2016-01-20
EP2565309A3 (fr) 2013-04-10
KR20130025324A (ko) 2013-03-11
CN102965802B (zh) 2014-07-09
JP2013053380A (ja) 2013-03-21
KR101329124B1 (ko) 2013-11-14

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