JPH0625932A - Special polyester multifilament yarn and special combined filament yarn - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To provide thick-and-thin yarn having soft, stretching and bulky feeling and free from the problem of the stiffened feeling which is a defect of a cloth produced by using conventional thick-and-thin yarn. CONSTITUTION:The polyester multifilament yarn has denier unevenness in the fiber direction and is essentially free from thermal shrinkage or exhibits thermal extension at 160 deg.C. The interlaced and combined filament yarn is produced by combining the polyester multifilament yarn with thermally shrinkable yarn.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a special polyester multifilament yarn and a special mixed yarn including the same.
More specifically, a special polyester-based multifilament yarn and a polyester-based multifilament yarn having a mottled appearance effect that shows a soft feeling and a dry feeling after being formed into a dyed fabric while having a thick and fine spot in the fiber axis direction. The present invention relates to a special mixed yarn which is more preferable in the feeling of tightness and bulkiness while making use of the above effects.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, a thick and thin yarn in which a polyester multifilament yarn has thick and thin spots in the fiber axis direction is well known. In many cases, the thick-and-thin yarn not only has thick and thin spots, but also has a large degree of crystallinity in the large fineness portion, and thus has a large dyeing property, and a fineness in the fineness portion has a large degree of crystallinity. It has the property of being less wearable,
After the dyeing process, there is a difference in shade in the fiber axis direction, which is effective in giving the polyester woven or knitted fabric a natural heathered or frosted appearance. Further, the unevenness of crystallinity in the fiber axis direction becomes unevenness of the heat shrinkage property, and in many cases, the unevenness of the heat shrinkage property is effective in imparting a dry feeling after forming the dyed fabric. It is considered. However, the conventional thick and thin yarn has a characteristic of heat shrinkage as a multifilament yarn having a certain length, and when the dyeing process is performed after weaving and knitting, the binding force of the fabric becomes strong. As a result, the texture is hardened.
In addition, a different shrinkage mixed fiber yarn in which the thick and thin yarn is constituted as a low shrinkage component is also proposed. Generally, sick and thin yarns have a low initial modulus for which a stress-strain curve is required, as compared with ordinary polyester-based multifilament yarns. By using a multifilament yarn with a high initial modulus, it is possible to improve the feeling of tightness. Further, when heat treated as a different shrinkage mixed yarn, a difference in foot length can be imparted between the high shrinkage component yarn and the low shrinkage component yarn, so that the effect of improving bulkiness can be seen more than in the case of thick and thin yarn alone. However, in the actual dyeing process after the knitting and weaving, the binding force of the woven or knitted fabric cannot cause a sufficient difference in the yarn length, and the bulkiness cannot always be said to be satisfactory.

[0003]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention is intended to solve the above-mentioned problems, and since the conventional thick and thin yarn has the characteristic of being heat-shrinkable, the dyed fabric is texture-hardened. It is possible to improve the softness of the dyed fabric by improving the point of causing the heat-shrinkage so that the dyed fabric has substantially no heat-shrinking property or has heat-expanding property. Another problem is that a different shrinkage mixed yarn composed of conventional low-shrinkage component yarn and thick-and-thin yarn cannot exhibit a sufficient bulky feeling when heat-treated under cloth restraining force. By improving the above-mentioned points and showing substantially no heat shrinkage property, or by incorporating a sick and thin yarn having heat expansion property into a mixed fiber yarn, it is sufficient even under a cloth restraining force. It is intended to obtain a dyed fabric with a rich bulky feel by expressing various yarn length differences.

[0004]

Means for Solving the Problems That is, the present invention provides a special polyester multifilament yarn having a dry heat shrinkage of 160 ° C. having thick and thin spots in the fiber axis direction and 0% or less, and A special mixed filament yarn comprising two or more groups including at least one group of the special polyester-based multifilament yarn as a multifilament group A, which satisfies the following formulas: SHD (A) [%] ≤ 0 ……………………………… (1) SHD (B) [%] ≧ 0 ……………………… (2) SHD (B) -SHD (A) ≧ 5 [%] ………… (3) 20 ≦ Di [ke / m] ≦ 100 ………… (4) However, SHD (A) is 160 of the multifilament group A.
[° C.] dry heat shrinkage [%], SHD (B) is 160 [° C.] dry heat shrinkage [%] of one polyester multi-filament group B other than the multi-filament group A constituting the mixed fiber ], Di represents the degree of entanglement [ke / m] of the mixed fiber.

First, the special polyester multifilament yarn which is the first invention of the present invention will be described. The polyester-based multifilament yarn in the first invention is required to have thick and thin spots in the fiber axis direction. The large fineness portion of the thick and fine unevenness in the fiber axis direction has a large dyeing property, and the fineness fine portion has a small dyeing property. Therefore, in order to confirm the thick and thin spots in the fiber axis direction, a multi-filament yarn should be used to make a dimple with an appropriate circumference, or as a woven or knitted product (cylinder knitting is acceptable), the fiber should be dyed by a conventional method. It can be understood by the difference in shade of direction. By having a difference in shade in the fiber axis direction, when a dyed fabric is formed, a natural heathered or frosted appearance like a natural fiber fabric is exhibited. The thick and thin spots are 15% or more with respect to the URN value measured by the method described later. Further, the thick and thin spots in the fiber axis direction remove the slimy feel of ordinary polyester-based multifilament yarn when a dyed fabric is formed, and exhibit a preferable dry feel. The polyester-based multifilament yarn according to the first aspect of the invention is required to have an SHD of 0% or less in the measuring method described in detail later. This is because when SHD> 0 [%], the property of heat shrinkage during dyeing after weaving and knitting strengthens the binding force of the fabric, resulting in hardening of the texture. That is, by setting SHD ≦ 0 [%],
A soft texture effect is exhibited without increasing the binding force of the cloth when the cloth is dyed. And SHD ≧
Even if it is 0%, the polyester-based multifilament yarn of the first invention has thick and fine unevenness in the fiber axis direction, and accordingly has unevenness in crystallinity in the fiber axis direction. Due to the relationship, it is considered that there may be a part exhibiting heat shrinking properties, mainly in the fineness part. However, when the fabric is formed, the parts exhibiting the heat shrinking property are scattered in the fabric. By this, the fabric exhibits bulky characteristics, which is preferable.

Next, the special mixed yarn which is the second invention of the present invention will be explained. A mixed yarn which is a second invention includes at least one group in which the special polyester multifilament yarn of the first invention is a multifilament group A 2
It must be a mixed yarn composed of more than one group. The multi-filament group A has a stain-like unevenness associated with thick and fine unevenness in the fiber axis direction, has a heathered or frosted appearance effect and a dry feeling, and SHD ≦ 0.
It has a characteristic of [%]. The mixed yarn of the second invention is SHD ≧ 0 other than the multifilament group A.
The multifilament group B having the property of [%] must also be included. Since both the multi-filament group A and the multi-filament group B are contained in the mixed fiber yarn, the whole fabric shrinks heat when dyeing after weaving and knitting, but the multi-filament group A has substantially no heat. Since it exhibits the property of attempting to stretch, it exhibits a large difference in foot length even under the restraining force of the fabric, and exhibits a soft feeling and a bulky feeling. You can see the effect. However, the difference between the SHD of the multifilament group B and the multifilament group A must be at least 5% or more.
If the amount is less than 5%, a sufficient difference in yarn length cannot be obtained, and satisfactory softness and bulkiness cannot be obtained. It is more preferably 10% or more. The mixed yarn of the second invention has a Di of 20 according to the measurement method described below.
[Ke / m] or more and 100 [ke / m] or less are required. When it is less than 20 [ke / m], the integrity between the plurality of filament groups constituting the mixed fiber becomes insufficient, resulting in poor handleability and passability in the subsequent step. 100
When it exceeds [ke / m], it is excluded from the present invention because an excessive hardening of the texture and an unfavorable cloth appearance defect called moire unevenness occur. A more preferable range of Di is 30 [ke / m] or more and 80 [ke / m] or less. The monofilament denier of the filaments constituting the special polyester-based multifilament yarn, which is the first invention of the present invention, is not preferably too large in order to exhibit a soft feeling, and is preferably 5 denier or less, more preferably 3 denier.
Examples include denier and below. The cross-sectional shape of the filament is not particularly limited, and in addition to a normal round cross section, any shape such as a polygonal cross section, a multilobal cross section, a hollow cross section, a flat cross section, and other special irregular cross section can be applied.

The special mixed yarn which is the second invention of the present invention is
A multi-filament yarn including at least one of the special polyester multifilament yarns as a multifilament group A, and also including a multifilament group B having a characteristic of SHD ≧ 0 [%]. The monofilament denier of the filament constituting B can be 1 denier or more and 6 denier or less. More preferably, it is 2 denier or more and 5 denier or less. If it is less than 1 denier, the fabric will not have a sufficient feeling of elasticity, and if it exceeds 6 denier, a coarse and hard feeling will appear, which is not preferable. Any cross-sectional shape of the filaments forming the multi-filament group B can be applied similarly to the filament forming the multi-filament group A. The polyester system referred to in the present invention may be a copolymerized polyester such as polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate, as well as an isophthalic acid component copolymerized polyester, a cationic dye dyeable polyester, an atmospheric pressure cationic dye dyeable polyester. . Further, in addition to a matting agent such as titanium oxide and a fine pore forming agent such as kaolinite, an antistatic agent may be added in a small amount.

In the multifilament groups constituting the special mixed yarn according to the second aspect of the present invention, the multifilament groups melt-spun from the same polyester chip may be used alone or different polyesters may be formed. It may be composed of multifilament groups melt-spun from the chips, and when polyester chips having different dyeability or dyeability between the multifilament groups are used, the dyeability in the fiber axis direction of filament group A is Mixed to give a more complex heathered or frosted appearance. It is also preferable that the multifilament group B constituting the special mixed yarn which is the second invention of the present invention is a thick and thin yarn having a characteristic of SHD ≧ 0 [%], but from the viewpoint of the feeling of tightness, Those having an extremely low initial modulus are not preferable. The denier of the multifilament group A and the denier of the multifilament group B that compose the special mixed yarn which is the second invention of the present invention are each at least 20 [%] or more relative to the denier of the entire mixed yarn. Is preferred. When the denier mixing ratio of the multifilament group A is less than 20%, the firmness and elasticity are satisfied, but the softness, bulkiness, dryness, heathering, or frosting appearance is not preferable. When the denier mixing ratio of the multi-filament group B is less than 20%, the feeling of tightness is insufficient, which is not preferable.

The special polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention and the mixed fiber yarn containing the same are not particularly limited in the production method thereof, but a possible production method will be described. The special polyester-based multifilament yarn, which is the first invention of the present invention, is an undrawn yarn obtained by melt-spinning polyester in a conventional manner, drawn under special conditions, and has high fineness in the fiber axis direction. After shrinking yarn,
Obtained by relaxation heat treatment. The take-up speed in melt spinning may be about 1500 [m / min], which is a normal value, but 20
It is preferable to take it as a partially oriented undrawn yarn of about 0 to 3500 [m / min]. When the undrawn yarn is drawn by using a drawing machine, thick and thin spots are imparted in the fiber axis direction. As a method of imparting thick and thin spots, the temperature is set to a room temperature to about 78 ° C., which is lower than the temperature of the roller at which stretching is substantially started and the glass transition temperature of polyester, and the stretching ratio is the thickness in the normal fiber axis direction. Is smaller than in the case of producing a uniform drawn yarn, and a friction resistor is provided between the roller where the drawing is substantially started and the roller where the drawing is substantially ended, and the yarn is made to run in contact with the friction resistor. Etc. can be exemplified, and by appropriately combining the methods, the degree and frequency of thick and thin spots can be made appropriate. However, the drawn yarn is S by the measuring method described later.
It is preferable to take it as a highly shrinkable yarn having an HD of 15% or more. Next, the high shrinkage stretched yarn provided with the thick and thin spots in the fiber axis direction is subjected to a relaxation heat treatment so that SHD ≦ 0 [%]. In order to satisfy SHD ≦ 0 [%], it is preferable to reduce only the orientation degree without increasing the crystallinity as much as possible. For that purpose, it is preferable to use a non-contact heater with a relaxation rate of 30% or more.
After the relaxation heat treatment, the thick and thin spots in the fiber axis direction of the yarn can be confirmed by the difference in dyeing, but the URN measured by the method described later is 15
[%] Or more can be exemplified.

As described above, the special polyester type multifilament yarn which is the first invention of the present invention is manufactured. The special mixed yarn according to the second aspect of the present invention is composed of two or more multifilament groups including at least one polyester multifilament yarn as the multifilament group A. A polyester-based multifilament group B other than the multifilament group A is SH
From D ≧ 0 [%], from the multifilament group A, SH
It is necessary that D has a large characteristic of 5 [%] or more, and it is a drawn yarn obtained by melt-spinning polyester. The heat history at the time of stretching may be reduced as much as possible, and the material may have a property of high shrinkage. Two or more multi-filament groups including the multi-filament group A and the multi-filament group B are subjected to fluid entanglement treatment continuously or separately after the relaxation heat treatment described above, and wound into a mixed fiber. At this time, as the fluid confounding processing nozzle,
A known interlacer nozzle, an air jet nozzle called a Taslan nozzle, or the like can be applied, and a Di according to a measurement method described later is 20 [ke / m] or more and 100 [ke /
m], the yarn feeding tension and the air pressure may be appropriately adjusted. It is also preferable that the polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention and the mixed fiber yarn containing the same are twisted and used as a cloth, and the appearance of the heathered or frosted state can be made more natural. It is also preferable from the viewpoint of softening the texture that the cloth is subjected to alkali reduction treatment in the dyeing process.

Next, a method of measuring SHD, Di and URN will be described. (SHD) 1/10 initial load with lap reel with appropriate frame circumference
[G / denier] Remove the 8 times volume of the skein and ⅓ to the skein
Applying a load of 0 [g / denier] and its length L0 [mm]
To measure. Then remove the load, 1/1000
The skein is dipped in boiling water for 30 minutes under a load of [g / denier]. After that, remove the maze from the boiling water and then dry it at 60 ° C for 30 minutes, then 1/1000.
With a load of [g / denier], dry heat 160
Heat treatment in an oven at [° C]. Then cool down again 1
A load of / 30 [g / denier] is applied and the length L1 (mm) at that time is measured. The dry heat shrinkage (SHD) is calculated by the following formula. SHD (%) = (L0-L1) × 100 / L0 (Di) Take out a thread of appropriate length and put 1/10 at the lower end.
Suspend vertically with a load of [g / denier].
Then, put an appropriate needle into the thread, and slowly lift it to move the distance L (cm) until the load rises to 10
The measurement is performed 0 times, the average value L (cm) is obtained from this, and the confounding degree (Di) is calculated by the following formula. Di (ke / m) = 100 / (2 × L) (URN) Using an Eve Nestester manufactured by Keisokuki Kogyo Co., Ltd., the sample was run at a yarn speed of 50 m / min to give false twist while denier of the data. Select a slot with and measure in a normal test for 2 minutes, and draw a chart at 2.5 cm / min. Next, divide the chart into two by 2.5 cm,
Highest value H1, H2 and lowest value L1, L2 of each section
Read and calculate by the following formula. URN (%) {(| H1 + H2 | / 2) + (| L1 + L
2 | / 2)} × 100

[0012]

[Examples] Specific examples will be described below.

Example 1 Polyethylene terephthalate was melt-spun by a conventional method,
Collection at a speed of 3000 [m / min], 31 denier / 1
Highly oriented undrawn yarn of 8 filaments was obtained. The temperature of the roller at which the drawing of the undrawn yarn is substantially started by a drawing machine is 70
[° C.], the stretching ratio is 1.55 [times], and 110 is provided between the roller where the stretching is started and the roller where the stretching is finished.
Stretching at a speed of 400 [m / min] while contacting the friction resistance heated to [° C] for a length of 50 [mm],
A high shrinkage stretched yarn having an SHD of 34 [%] and having thick and thin spots in the fiber axis direction of 20 denier / 18 filament was obtained. The drawn yarn has a relaxation rate between rollers of 45 [%] and a yarn speed of 300 [m / min] with a non-contact heater heated to 260 [° C] of a length 25 [cm] located between both rollers. And a relaxation heat treatment was performed to obtain a 30 denier / 18 filament polyester-based multifilament filament yarn. The SHD of the polyester multifilament yarn is -4.5.
[%] And URN were 52 [%]. When the polyester-based multifilament yarn was knitted and dyed by a conventional method, it exhibited a preferable heathered appearance, a soft feeling,
It was a preferable one having a dry feeling.

Comparative Example 1 The highly oriented undrawn yarn of 31 denier / 18 filament obtained in Example 1 is substantially started to be drawn by a drawing machine at a roller temperature of 80 ° C. and a draw ratio of 1.67. Cold drawing was carried out twice without using a friction resistor to obtain a highly shrinkable polyester multifilament drawn yarn having a SHD of 40% at 19 denier / 18 filament. The drawn yarn was subjected to a relaxation heat treatment in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a polyester multifilament yarn having a SHD of -4.5 [%] and a URN of 8 [%] at 29 denier / 18 filament, and dyed as in Example 1. I got a tubular knitted fabric. The tubular knitted fabric has a soft feeling, but
It did not show a heat-tone appearance and was not satisfactory in terms of dry feeling.

Comparative Example 2 The drawn yarn having 20 denier / 18 filaments obtained in Example 1 and having SHD of 34 [%] having thick and fine unevenness in the fiber axis direction was used as a dyed tubular knitted fabric in the same manner as in Example 1. . Although it had a heathered appearance, the shrinkage of the yarn at the time of dyeing was too large, and the texture was quite hard and not preferable.

COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 3 A contact type heater obtained by heating the drawn yarn of 20 denier / 18 filament obtained in Example 1 having SHD of 34 [%] having thick and fine unevenness in the fiber axis direction to 220 [° C.], Relaxation rate 10
[%], Relaxation heat treatment at a yarn speed of 300 [m / min], and SH
22 denier / one with D [%] and URN 25 [%]
8 filament yarns were obtained. The texture of the dyed tubular fabric is
Compared with the dyed tubular knitted fabric of Comparative Example 2, the shrinkage of the yarn at the time of dyeing was small, but the soft feeling intended by the present invention was not satisfied.

Example 2 The SHD obtained after the relaxation heat treatment in Example 1 is -4.5 [%].
And obtained by melt-spinning a polyester-based multifilament yarn of 30 denier / 18 filament having a URN of 52 [%] and polyethylene terephthalate separately, and then cold drawing.
Multifilament yarn with denier / 24 filament and SHD of 16 [%] was air pressure 4 [kg / cm ² ] and yarn speed 300 [m / min] using an interlacer nozzle.
Fluid entanglement treatment was carried out to obtain a mixed fiber yarn having 105 denier / 42 filament and Di of 55 [ke / m]. 450 [T / m] twisted yarn is applied to the mixed yarn and used as a warp yarn.
SHD with 150 denier / 96 filament as weft
1800 for 12% polyethylene terephthalate drawn yarn
[T / m] Twisted yarn was used for plain weaving and dyeing by a conventional method. At that time, it was subjected to alkali treatment to reduce the weight by 20%. The fabric has an SHD-
The presence of 4.5 [%] of the multifilament group produces a sufficient difference in thread length even under the binding force of the fabric, which is excellent in the soft feeling and bulky feeling. Combined with the effect of twisting yarns, gives a nice mottled appearance and a dry feeling, while SH
Due to the presence of the multifilament yarn having D of 16 [%], it was preferable that it also had an appropriate feeling of tightness.

Comparative Example 4 29 denier / 18 filament S obtained in Comparative Example 1
A polyester multifilament yarn having an HD of -4.5% and an URN of 8% and the polyester multifilament yarn having an SHD of 16% at the 75 denier / 24 filament used in Example 2 were carried out. Fluid entanglement treatment as in Example 2 and Di at 104 denier / 42 filament
Of 55 [ke / m] was obtained. Using the mixed yarn as a warp, a twisted yarn was woven and dyed in the same manner as in Example 2 to obtain a dyed woven fabric. The woven fabric was excellent in softness, bulkiness and tightness, but did not show a heathered appearance and was poor in dryness.

Comparative Example 5 22 denier / 18 denier SHD obtained in Comparative Example 3
Is 3% and the URN is 25%, and the polyester multifilament yarn of 75 denier / 24 filament SHD of 16% used in Example 2 is the same as in Example 2. Fluid entanglement treatment for 97 denier / 42 filament with Di of 58
A mixed yarn of [ke / m] was obtained. A dyed woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 2 by using the mixed fiber as a warp as a warp and adjusting the woven density. The woven fabric is preferable in terms of a dry feel and a tense and luster-like appearance, but the difference in yarn length due to the heat treatment during the dyeing process is not always sufficient. There is no big difference with.

Comparative Example 6 In Example 2, the fibers were simply wound together without being subjected to a fluid entanglement treatment between the multifilament groups. When the yarn was twisted in the same manner as in Example 2 and woven as a warp, the handleability during twisting was not good, and the passability in the weaving process was not good.

Example 3 SHD at 30 denier / 18 filament in Example 1
Is -4.5 [%], URN is 52 [%], and polyester-based multifilament yarn is 75 denier / 36 filament, SHD is 40 [%], and URN is 42 [%]. The polyester-based multifilament yarn having No. 1 was subjected to the fluid entanglement treatment in the same manner as in Example 2, and the Di was 47.
[Ke / m] of 105 denier 54 filament mixed yarn was obtained. The mixed yarn was twisted and used as a warp in the same manner as in Example 2, and plain weave was carried out after adjusting the woven density to obtain a dyed woven fabric. The woven fabric was very preferable to that of Example 2 in that the dry feeling and the heathered appearance were further clarified.

Example 4 SHD at 30 denier / 18 filament in Example 1
Of -4.5 [%] and URN of 52 [%], and a polyester multifilament yarn of 75 denier / 24 filament and SHD of 20 [%] cationic dye dyeable copolyester multifilament yarn Concealed, 105 denier / 24 filament and Di of 5
A mixed yarn of 5 [ke / m] was obtained. The mixed yarn was twisted and woven in the same manner as in Example 2, and then dyed with a disperse dye and a disperse cationic dye to obtain a dyed woven fabric. The woven fabric was a very preferable one because it exhibited the heterochromatic effect of the cationic dye-dyeable polyester and exhibited a smooth tone-like appearance.

[0023]

The first aspect of the present invention improves the point that the texture of the conventional thick and thin yarn causes hardening by heat treatment during dyeing, and does not shrink when heat treated, or substantially By having the property of elongating,
It was made possible to give a soft and unprecedented softness to the heathered appearance and dry feeling due to the difference in dyeing in the fiber axis direction of the thick and thin yarn. In the second invention, the point that the heterogeneous shrinkage mixed yarn in which the thick and thin yarn is contained as the low shrinkage component yarn is not always satisfactory in the bulky feeling is improved, and the polyester-based multifilament yarn of the first invention is included. Even if the fabric is restrained, a sufficient difference in yarn length due to heat treatment is exhibited by configuring the fabric to have a mottled or frosted appearance and a dry feeling, a soft feeling, a bulky feeling,
We have made it possible to provide a favorable cloth that has not been seen in the past and that has a tight and elastic feel. The special polyester-based multifilament yarn of the present invention and the mixed yarn containing the same are novel ones that can be widely used from heavy-duty men's clothing applications to women's thin-cloth clothing applications.

Claims (2)

[Claims] 1. A special polyester-based multifilament yarn having a dry heat shrinkage at 160 ° C. of 0% or less having thick and fine spots in the fiber axis direction. 2. A mixed fiber yarn comprising two or more groups including at least one group of the special polyester multifilament yarn according to claim 1, which satisfies the following formulas (1) to (4). Special mixed yarn that is characterized by SHD (A) [%] ≤ 0 ……………………………… (1) SHD (B) [%] ≧ 0 ……………………… (2) SHD (B) -SHD (A) ≧ 5 [%] ………… (3) 20 ≦ Di [ke / m] ≦ 100 ………… (4) However, SHD (A) is the same as that of the multifilament group A. 16
0 [° C] dry heat shrinkage [%]. SHD (B) is 160 [° C.] dry heat shrinkage rate [%] of B of one group of polyester-based multifilament groups other than the multifilament group A constituting the mixed fiber, Di is the entanglement of the mixed fiber Degree [ke / m] is shown.