WO2015120760A1 - 吸湿发热快干保湿保暖面料及其制备方法 - Google Patents

吸湿发热快干保湿保暖面料及其制备方法 Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2015120760A1
WO2015120760A1 PCT/CN2015/070619 CN2015070619W WO2015120760A1 WO 2015120760 A1 WO2015120760 A1 WO 2015120760A1 CN 2015070619 W CN2015070619 W CN 2015070619W WO 2015120760 A1 WO2015120760 A1 WO 2015120760A1
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Prior art keywords
yarn
fabric
needle
moisture
fiber
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PCT/CN2015/070619
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English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
周用民
胡萍
张建武
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WUHAN LOVE GOD HIGH-LEVEL DRESS & ADORNMENTS Co Ltd
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WUHAN LOVE GOD HIGH-LEVEL DRESS & ADORNMENTS Co Ltd
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Priority to EP15748772.9A priority Critical patent/EP3109353B1/en
Publication of WO2015120760A1 publication Critical patent/WO2015120760A1/zh
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B21/00—Successive treatments of textile materials by liquids, gases or vapours
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B3/00—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating
    • D06B3/24—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of fabrics in roped form
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/82—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/02—Moisture-responsive characteristics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/01—Surface features
    • D10B2403/011—Dissimilar front and back faces
    • D10B2403/0111—One hairy surface, e.g. napped or raised
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/01—Surface features
    • D10B2403/011—Dissimilar front and back faces
    • D10B2403/0114—Dissimilar front and back faces with one or more yarns appearing predominantly on one face, e.g. plated or paralleled yarns
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
    • D10B2501/04—Outerwear; Protective garments

Definitions

  • the invention belongs to the technical field of knitted garment fabrics, and specifically relates to a moisture absorption heat-drying quick-drying moisturizing warm fabric and a preparation method thereof.
  • the evaporation rate and the moisture permeability are two indicators for evaluating the quick-drying property of the fabric. They are characterized by the evaporation rate and moisture permeability of the fabric as a whole, and the difference in the quick-drying performance between the inner and outer layers of the fabric.
  • knit product developers have developed a large number of moisture-absorbing and quick-drying products, most of which is that sweat is quickly transferred to the outer layer of the fabric through the inner layer of the fabric, and the inner layer has a fast drying performance.
  • the rapid transfer of sweat from the inside to the outside is achieved to achieve the purpose of continuously drying the skin.
  • the development of these fabrics is mostly limited to the development of sports knitted fabric products, and this concept is rarely used for the development of knitted underwear fabrics.
  • the object of the present invention is to provide a moisture-absorbing and heat-drying moisturizing and warming fabric, the moisture absorption value of the fabric far exceeds the national standard requirement, the moisture absorption and quick-drying performance is excellent, and the heat preservation rate meets the national requirements for the standard of warm knitted underwear, and at the same time,
  • the invented fabric also has a comfortable elasticity and a soft, delicate feel on the body.
  • the moisture-absorbing and heat-drying moisturizing and warming fabric of the present invention is special in that it is woven from four yarns of a first yarn, a second yarn, a third yarn and a fourth yarn.
  • the first yarn is a regenerated cellulose fiber blended yarn of one or more of hemp, wool or cashmere and cotton fibers blended with regenerated cellulose fibers, or a regenerated cellulose filament yarn, Or a regenerated cellulose spun yarn
  • the second yarn is a modified polyester fiber yarn having a non-circular cross section
  • the third yarn is one or both of polyester staple fiber or polyacrylonitrile fiber and cotton The fiber-blended cotton fiber blended yarn or the cotton yarn
  • the fourth yarn is a polyurethane fiber yarn.
  • the non-circular cross-section modified polyester fiber yarn is a modified polyester fiber yarn having a cross section, a Y-shaped cross section or a ⁇ -shaped cross section.
  • the fabric is a three-layer structure composed of an outer layer, an intermediate layer and an inner layer, the outer layer being composed of a first yarn and a fourth yarn, the intermediate layer being composed of a second yarn
  • the fourth yarn is woven, and the inner layer is composed of a second yarn, a third yarn, and a fourth yarn.
  • the regenerated cellulose fiber accounts for 50 to 80% by weight.
  • cotton fibers account for 60 to 90% by weight.
  • the preparation method of the moisture-absorbing and heat-drying moisturizing and warming fabric according to the present invention is special in that it comprises the following steps in sequence:
  • the predetermined type temperature is 170-200 ° C
  • the vehicle speed is 15-25 m/min
  • the over-feeding fabric quantity is 15-40%
  • the dyeing tank is filled with water, and the predetermined type of fabric blank is advanced. After the cylinder, the cloth head tail is stitched into a rope loop that can be continuously dyed by the cylinder;
  • the temperature control during the reduction cleaning is 85-100 ° C, and the holding time is controlled to 15-30 min;
  • the reducing cleaning liquid is drained, and then the fabric semi-finished product is subjected to hot washing.
  • the hot washing temperature is controlled to be 85 to 98 ° C
  • the holding time is controlled to be 10 to 20 min
  • the water is further washed for 10 to 20 minutes. ;
  • the upper machine weaving method is:
  • the first and fourth yarns are fed into the outer layer of the fabric by means of a single-needle full-needle knitting; the second yarn and the fourth yarn are separated by a lower needle, a half-needle, a circular knitting and a needle.
  • the second yarn is woven by a double-needle knitting method of one-and-a-half stitching, and the third yarn is woven by a lower needle and a half-needle single-sided thread; wherein: the second yarn and the fourth yarn are needled.
  • the intermediate layer of the fabric is formed by a half-needle tuck weave portion: the single-side yarn weaving of the third yarn and the second yarn and the fourth yarn lower needle are separated by a half-needle into a loop knitting portion.
  • the inner layer of the fabric or:
  • the first and fourth yarns are fed into the outer layer of the fabric by means of a needle-punched single-sided weaving; the second yarn and the fourth yarn are separated by a needle, a half stitch, a loop knitting and a lower needle.
  • the second yarn is woven by a double-needle knitting method of one-and-a-half-needle tucking, and the third yarn is woven by one stitch and one half-needle single-side thread; wherein: the second yarn and the fourth yarn lower needle
  • the intermediate layer of the fabric is formed by the weaving portion of the semi-needle tuck: the single-side yarn weaving of the third yarn and the second yarn and the fourth yarn are separated by a half-needle into a loop knitting part.
  • the inner layer of the fabric is formed by the weaving portion of the semi-needle tuck: the single-side yarn weaving of the third yarn and the second yarn and the fourth yarn are separated by a half-needle into a loop knitting part.
  • the bath ratio is 1:5-15.
  • the temperature of the dyeing liquid is controlled to be 110 to 130 ° C, the holding time is 20 to 45 minutes, and the speed of the dyeing liquid is raised and lowered to 0.5 to 1 ° C / min.
  • the dyeing liquid is prepared by mixing a disperse dye and a dye auxiliary agent, wherein the dye auxiliary agent comprises a chelating dispersing agent having a content of 0.5 to 1.5 g/L, and an anti-wrinkle agent having a content of 0.5 to 2 g/L, and the content is 0.5 to 1 g. /L high temperature leveling agent, acetic acid content of 0.5 ⁇ 1g / L.
  • the reducing cleaning solution used is a mixture of an anti-wrinkling agent, sodium dithionite and a soda ash solution, wherein the anti-wrinkle agent content is 1 to 2 g/L, and the sodium dithionite content is 0.5 to 1 g/ L, the content of soda ash is 0.5 to 2 g / L.
  • the hydrophilic softener is used in an amount of 0.5 to 2% by weight of the blank to be dyed, and the hydrophilic soft oil is used in an amount of 3 to 5% by weight of the blank to be dyed.
  • the semi-finished fabric is first pickled for 10-20 min before the hydrophilic softener and the upper hydrophilic soft olein on the semi-finished fabric.
  • the soaping agent used in the soaping is a mixture of a detergent and a chelating dispersant, and the detergent has a detergent content of 1 to 3 g/L.
  • the dispersant content is 1 to 2 g/L.
  • moisture absorption, heat absorption, quick drying, moisturizing and warming are as follows:
  • the moisture-absorbing and heat-absorbing fabric component must be selected to have better hydrophilicity or stronger wicking and moisture guiding function.
  • the raw materials selected in the present invention are regenerated fibers rich in more hydrophilic groups. Plain fiber and cotton fiber are the main raw materials, and the obtained fabric itself has good water absorption performance.
  • non-prototype cross-section modified polyester fiber yarns such as cross-section, Y-section or ⁇ -shaped cross-section have larger specific surface area and specific surface energy than ordinary round-section polyester fiber yarns, Strong wicking and moisture guiding function, so that the water absorption index of the finished fabric meets the national standard requirements or above.
  • the only water absorption rate of the fabric is not necessarily the moisture-absorbing fabric.
  • the first yarn raw material with the regenerated cellulose fiber as the main component is mainly placed on the outer layer of the fabric, and the cotton will be cotton.
  • the third yarn material mainly composed of fiber is placed in the inner layer of the fabric, so that the water molecules in the fabric will have a transfer movement from inside to outside due to the difference in hygroscopicity, and the water molecules will continuously shift inside the fabric. The movement produces integral heat and differential heat, and the kinetic energy is converted into heat to produce heat.
  • the fabric must have a sufficient thickness or a large amount of air and static air to prevent loss of heat insulation.
  • the present invention uses the first yarn and the fourth yarn to form a fabric outer layer by means of a single needle weave.
  • the fabric is relatively tight, thus creating a condition for the effective heat-insulating amount to be lost.
  • the third component is used to form a main component of the inner layer of the fabric by using a third yarn, a half-needle, and a polyurethane fiber yarn without a fourth yarn. Relatively sparse, coupled with the fluffing of the subsequent process, many tiny voids are generated, and more static air is stored in the memory, so that the heat energy converted by the movement of the moisture-absorbing water molecules is not easily lost, and the maximum temperature rise value and the average temperature rise value of the moisture absorption will reach the state. standard requirement.
  • the inner layer fabric is also hydrophilic, but the weighted average normetic regain rate is relatively small, and the outer fabric is hydrophilic and weighted average.
  • the moisture regain rate is much larger than the weighted average public regain rate of the inner fabric.
  • the quick-drying of the inner layer fabric not only passes through the natural evaporation and quick-drying channels of the surface layer, but also through the strong moisture absorption channel of the outer fabric, so that the moisture absorbed by the inner layer is quickly transferred to the outer layer through the middle wicking moisture guiding layer and rapidly diffuses. Therefore, the quick-drying performance of the inner layer is significantly better than the outer layer.
  • the middle layer of the fabric is composed of a modified polyester fiber yarn of a non-circular cross section of the second yarn and a fourth yarn polyurethane fiber yarn, which is composed of a modified polyester fiber yarn of a non-circular cross section. It has a large specific surface area and thus has a strong wicking and wetting action. This wicking and wetting action is bidirectional, either from the inner layer of the fabric to the outer layer or from the outer layer of the fabric to the inner layer.
  • the weight of the outer layer raw material of the fabric of the invention has a large average moisture regaining rate, and the raw material itself contains a large amount of hydrophilic groups, and is supplemented by the hydrophilic soft finishing after finishing, thereby having a strong function of capturing water molecules in the air, when the air
  • the outer layer of the fabric will adsorb a large amount of water molecules, and the inner layer of the fabric will be wetted to the inner layer of the fabric to achieve the moisture absorption balance and achieve the purpose of moisturizing and delaying the aging of the human body.
  • a large amount of sweat is discharged from the human body, it will be quickly transferred to the outer layer of the fabric.
  • the outer layer of the fabric has a relatively slow evaporation rate due to the hydrophilicity of a large number of hydrophilic groups, and the sufficient moisture of the outer layer creates conditions for the inner layer to moisturize.
  • the outer layer will catch moisture from the air or from the moisture that has not been completely evaporated and volatilized before, and the inner layer of the fabric is guided to the inner layer of the fabric through the double-guided wet function of the middle layer of the fabric. Wet to achieve moisture absorption balance, so as to achieve moisturizing purposes.
  • the principle of warmth the hollow design of the fabric structure is not obvious for the insulation rate of the fabric with polyurethane fiber, and the design of the inner layer of the fabric is used to improve the heat preservation rate.
  • the inner layer of the fabric will produce a large number of tiny voids, a large amount of still air is stored, and the outer layer of polyurethane fiber yarn is introduced, and the outer fabric is relatively tight, effectively preventing air from being between the human body and the outer layer of the fabric. Flow, through the large amount of still air, to achieve a significant increase in fabric insulation rate.
  • the invention is to make a lot of tiny gaps in the inner layer of the fabric through the finishing process of the inner layer of the fleece, and a large amount of still air is stored in the small gap, and the weaving method of the first and fourth yarns of the outer layer is full, and
  • the fourth yarn is a polyurethane fiber yarn which has good elasticity and shrinkage property, and the outer fabric becomes relatively tight due to the introduction of the full needle and the fourth thread, and can effectively block the heat loss of the body, thereby To achieve the purpose of keeping warm.
  • the design of the knitting process diagram of the machine is based on the following principles: First, the moisture absorption and quick drying performance of each raw material component are maximized, especially It is the property of draining from the inner layer of the fabric to the outer layer.
  • the invention adopts the third yarn without the polyurethane fiber yarn, and the upper needle or the lower needle is separated by one and a half needles, and the fabric is more sparse after the structure is grasped, which is favorable for the inner layer to be wetted and Quick drying, the outer layer of the fabric adopts the first or fourth yarn lower needle or the upper needle to fill the needle.
  • the fabric is relatively tight, which is more favorable for the rapid outward transfer and accumulation of the inner moisture.
  • the structure design of the invention adopts the second yarn and the fourth yarn to take the upper needle or the lower needle one by one and one half needle to form a loop knitting, and the corresponding lower needle or upper needle is separated by a half needle stitching and weaving.
  • the moisture regain rate does not affect and reduce the weighted average normetic moisture regain of the outer layer components, and is more conducive to the moisture permeability and quick drying of the inner layer.
  • it is more conducive to the inner layer of fleece, while also taking into account the principle of holding the roots of the hair without lint.
  • the invention adopts the theory of the coil index in the field of knitting engineering disciplines flexibly by adjusting the design of the number of the yarn feeding paths in the weaving of the upper machine, so that the third yarn obtained by the machine manufacturing becomes a looped coil. It is very long and very convex on the surface of the fabric to facilitate the finishing of the fleece, and the second and fourth yarns that participate in the inner layer structure of the pile of the third yarn loop are locked into a small loop. In order to avoid scratching it when it is caught, it will affect the function of the locking function and cause hair loss.
  • the third yarn can be fixed to one type of knitting needle and half-needle single-side knitting, or two kinds of knitting needles can be half-needle single-sided knitting.
  • Each of the first yarn and the fourth yarn is full of needle single-side weaving and the third yarn is half-needle single-sided weaving, and the second yarn and the fourth yarn must be correspondingly designed.
  • the single-sided woven needles are the same type of knitting needles, so that the double-woven woven loop-forming stitches firmly lock the third yarn forming the root of the coil, and create conditions for the subsequent process without fluffing after the hair is caught.
  • the fabric must have the principle of comfort and flexibility.
  • the structure design of the fabric of the present invention is introduced or introduced in addition to the number of yarn feeding paths of the third yarn to be napped and not introduced into the polyurethane fiber yarn.
  • Polyurethane fiber yarn, polyurethane fiber yarn has excellent tensile properties and recovery properties.
  • the number of yarns entering the third yarn of the fleece is not introduced into the polyurethane fiber yarn, which will facilitate the subsequent process of gripping. On the basis of ensuring that the fabric is sufficiently flexible, it does not affect the fleece of the inner layer.
  • the reduction cleaning process must be carried out, and the main purpose is to remove the dip after the high temperature sublimation.
  • the color of the dye on the polyester fiber and the floating color of the disperse dye on other materials improve the color fastness of the entire fabric.
  • hot and cold washing are carried out, and the dyeing of regenerated cellulose fibers, cotton fibers and other fibers is prepared for the subsequent steps.
  • Reactive cellulose fibers, cotton fibers and other fibers are dyed by using reactive dyes or other dyes and auxiliaries according to the dyeing process curve of the fabric blanks that have not been dyed.
  • the semi-finished fabric of the washed fabric does not come out of the cylinder, and is added with a hydrophilic softener and a hydrophilic soft oil, and is immersed for 20 to 30 minutes under normal temperature.
  • the semi-finished fabric of the fabric can be pickled for 10-20 min with a weak acid, and the pH of the dye solution is adjusted between 4.5 and 6, so that the dye liquor is weakly acidic because of hydrophilicity.
  • Sex softeners and hydrophilic soft oleins have a softer, softer and softer effect on the fabric under weak acid conditions.
  • the upper hydrophilic softener is a hydrophilic soft finishing of the non-circular modified polyester yarn of the second yarn or the polyester staple fiber in the third yarn; the upper hydrophilic soft oil is directed to the third
  • the yarn, the cotton fiber in the first yarn or the hemp, wool or cashmere of the first yarn and the regenerated cellulose fiber are hydrophilically softened.
  • the fabric after hydrophilic soft treatment requires soft hand feeling, excellent hydrophilic effect and fluffy cotton fiber to facilitate the principle of fluffing in the subsequent process, and the stretch pre-shrinking dryer for semi-finished fabrics with hydrophilic treatment Drying is carried out on the semi-finished fabric of the dried fabric. The pulling effect is long and the uniform and delicate feel is good.
  • the pulling process is directly related to the texture of the fabric and the achievement of the fabric insulation rate index.
  • the finished fabric is retraced, and the temperature of the replica type should not exceed 160 ° C, so as to prevent the disperse dye molecules on the polyester fiber from sublimating again to form a floating color and reduce the color fastness of the fabric.
  • Example 1 is a schematic view showing a weaving process of the weaving of the fabric on the fabric of Example 1.
  • FIG. 2 is a schematic view showing the arrangement of knitting needles woven on the fabric of the first embodiment.
  • Fig. 3 is a schematic view showing the triangular arrangement of the knitting needles woven on the fabric of the first embodiment.
  • FIG 4 is a schematic view showing a knitting process of the fabric weaving of the fabric of the second embodiment.
  • Fig. 5 is a schematic view showing the arrangement of knitting needles woven on the fabric of the embodiment 2.
  • Fig. 6 is a schematic view showing the triangular arrangement of the knitting needles woven on the fabric of the embodiment 2.
  • Fig. 7 is a schematic view showing the knitting process of the fabric weaving in the fabric of the third embodiment.
  • Fig. 8 is a schematic view showing the arrangement of knitting needles woven on the fabric of the embodiment 3.
  • Fig. 9 is a schematic view showing the arrangement of the knitting needles in the fabric of the fabric of the third embodiment.
  • Fig. 10 is a schematic view showing the knitting process of the fabric weaving in the fabric of the fourth embodiment.
  • Figure 11 is a schematic view showing the arrangement of knitting needles woven on the fabric of the embodiment 4.
  • Fig. 12 is a schematic view showing the triangular arrangement of the knitting needles woven on the fabric of the embodiment 4.
  • Figure 13 is a schematic view showing the knitting process of the fabric weaving of the fabric of Example 5.
  • Figure 14 is a schematic view showing the arrangement of knitting needles woven on the fabric of the embodiment 5.
  • Fig. 15 is a schematic view showing the arrangement of the knitting needles in the fabric of the fabric of the fifth embodiment.
  • a moisture-absorbing, heat-drying, moisturizing and warming fabric which is woven from four kinds of yarns, and the first yarn is cotton fiber Remanufactured regenerated cellulose fiber blended regenerated cellulose fiber blended yarn J40S Lenzing Modal/cotton 50/50 blended yarn, in which 50% by weight of regenerated cellulose fiber;
  • second yarn is Shanghai Haitian Yingjie Textile
  • the third yarn is 20S cotton high-grade carded yarn;
  • the fourth yarn is 30D polyurethane fiber yarn produced by Hangzhou Asahi Kasei Spandex Co., Ltd.
  • the preparation method of the moisture-absorbing and heat-drying moisturizing and warming fabric comprises the following steps in sequence:
  • the weaving of the machine is carried out in the manner shown in Figures 1-3.
  • a total of six roads are woven to complete a complete structure.
  • the first road is the double needle of the lower needle, the needle half needle is formed, and the second needle is the double needle of the needle needle.
  • the second way is the one-side weaving of the needle 1st needle and the half stitching
  • the third way is the single-side weaving of the needle with the needle
  • the fourth way is the needle of the needle of the lower needle.
  • the upper needle 1st needle is used for the double-sided weaving of the half-needle tuck
  • the fifth road repeats the second road weaving
  • the sixth road repeats the third road weaving.
  • the yarns used in the first and fourth roads are the cross-section modified polyester fiber yarn COOLDRY75D/72F produced by Shanghai Haitian Yingjie Textile Technology Co., Ltd. and the 30D polyurethane fiber yarn produced by Hangzhou Asahi Kasei Spandex Co., Ltd.
  • the yarn used in the second and fifth roads is 20S cotton high-ply carded yarn
  • the third and sixth-way yarns are J40S Lenzing Modal/Cotton 50/50 blended yarn and 30D polyurethane fiber yarn produced by Hangzhou Asahi Kasei Spandex Co., Ltd. line.
  • the woven fabric is obtained as a three-layer structure of an outer layer, an intermediate layer and an inner layer, wherein the outer layer is composed of a first yarn and a fourth yarn, and the intermediate layer is composed of a second yarn and a fourth yarn.
  • the inner layer is composed of a second yarn, a third yarn, and a fourth yarn.
  • Figure 1 shows that the first and fourth rounds of the lower needle 1st stitched woven part and the second and fifth way of the lower needle 1st needle single woven part together form the inner layer of the fabric, under the first and fourth passes
  • the stitch index of the needle loop is 0, and the elastic contraction effect of the polyurethane fiber filament and the splitting action of the upper needle loop are used to make the lower needle inner layer coil formed by the first and fourth paths relatively
  • the small, second, and fifth roads have a single-sided braided coil index of 1, and have no effect of the above two forces. Therefore, the lower needle inner layer coil is relatively large, and the third and sixth paths are needled.
  • the single-sided woven polyurethane fiber yarn is more prominent under the elastic contraction, which is more conducive to the gripping of the subsequent dyeing and finishing process.
  • the inner layer is the moisture absorbing and quick-drying layer of the fabric;
  • the upper needle set of the first and fourth double-sided knitting The ring portion forms an intermediate layer of the fabric, and the middle layer is a wicking double-guided wet layer of the fabric;
  • the third and sixth road needles are woven on one side to form an outer layer of the fabric, and the outer layer is a moisture absorbing and moisture releasing layer of the fabric;
  • the finished fabric is connected to the predetermined blank of the fabric, the predetermined temperature is 195 ° C, the speed is 20 m / min, and the amount of super-feeding fabric is 35%;
  • the dyeing tank is fed with water to the required water level.
  • the predetermined blanks are sequentially inserted into the cylinder head according to the capacity of each tube of the dyeing cylinder, and the cloth head is seamed. Synthesizing a rope loop that can be continuously dyed in a cylinder;
  • the semi-finished fabric is obtained, that is, the fabric blank is immersed in the dyeing tank containing the oxygen bleaching and degreasing treatment agent for oxygen bleaching and degreasing treatment, oxygen bleaching and degreasing treatment.
  • the content of hydrogen peroxide produced by Wuhan Chengguang Chemical Co., Ltd. is 4g/L
  • the content of Yashuang NF anti-wrinkle agent produced by Shanghai Yayun Fine Chemical Co., Ltd. is 1g/L
  • the refining agent produced by Shanghai Xinze Chemical is 0.5g/ L, Xinjiang Tianye Chemical Co., Ltd.
  • Disperse blue 2BLN is mixed;
  • the selected dye additives include chelating dispersant, anti-wrinkle agent, high temperature leveling agent and acetic acid, and the chelating dispersing agent is produced by Shanghai Yayun Fine Chemical Co., Ltd.
  • Yajierui ARSK content is 1g/L
  • anti-wrinkle agent is produced by Shanghai Yayun Fine Chemical Co., Ltd.
  • the Yasseng slip NF content is 1g/L
  • the high temperature leveling agent is the high temperature leveling agent produced by Guangdong Demei Chemical Co., Ltd.
  • the content of DM-2108 is 0.5g/L
  • the acetic acid content of Jiangsu Sopo Chemical Co., Ltd. is 0.5g/L.
  • the reducing cleaning liquid used is the Yashuang NF anti-wrinkle agent produced by Shanghai Yayun Fine Chemical Co., Ltd., Guangzhou Zhongcheng Sodium Dithionite produced by Chemical Industry Co., Ltd. and Hubei Yingcheng Shuanghuan Chemical Co., Ltd.
  • the reactive dye is a group of reactive dyes produced by Shanghai Dye No.8 Factory.
  • the reactive dyes are: Reactive Brilliant Red M-3BE with a weight of 0.048% of the weight of the fabric to be dyed, and a weight of 0.94% of the weight of the fabric to be dyed.
  • the active black KN-B with a weight of 0.02% of the weight of the fabric to be dyed;
  • the selected dye additives include a chelating dispersant, an anti-wrinkle agent, a dye solution, and a chelating dispersant.
  • Yajierui ARSK produced by Shanghai Yayun Fine Chemical Co., Ltd. has a content of 1g/L and anti-wrinkle agent is the Yashuang slip NF produced by Shanghai Yayun Fine Chemical Co., Ltd., with a content of 1g/L.
  • the dyes are pumped into the cylinders, dyes and their dyes.
  • the auxiliary feeding time control was completed within 20 minutes, and at the same time, the cloth was allowed to run at room temperature for 20 min in the dyeing solution.
  • the dyeing assistant is added to the dyeing liquid at the normal temperature.
  • the Yuanming powder is produced by Hubei Yingcheng Shuanghuan Chemical Co., Ltd., the content is 35g/L, and the Yuanming powder is directly added to the attached cylinder. Add water to dilute at room temperature and stir evenly, then divide into the cylinder evenly, and the feeding time is controlled within 30 minutes. Finally, the fixing agent soda ash is added at room temperature.
  • the soda ash is produced by Hubei Yingcheng Shuanghuan Chemical Co., Ltd., and the content is 10g/L. It is added in two times.
  • the feeding time is controlled at 20min, and the dye is added directly to the tank and diluted with water. Slowly enter the cylinder, all the heating starts slowly, the speed is controlled at 0.5 ⁇ 1 ° C / min, warming to 60 ° C when the insulation begins, after 40 minutes of warming, the color is chased until the color reaches the confirmed The color sample is up;
  • the semi-finished fabric of the fabric is soaped and re-cold washed.
  • the soaping the water of the normal temperature pickling is discharged, and then the water is introduced into the tank water according to the bath water level, and the soaping agent is added through the dye attached cylinder, and the soaping agent is Mixing of detergent and chelating dispersant, the detergent is the detergent AR-812 of Jiangsu Hai'an Petrochemical Technology Development Co., Ltd., the content is 2g/L, and the chelating dispersant is Shanghai.
  • Yajirui ARSK produced by Yayun Fine Chemical Co., Ltd. has a content of 1g/L.
  • the temperature is slowly increased, the heating rate is controlled at 1 ° C / min, heated to 98 ° C and then kept for 10 min, then slowly added cold water to cool, cooling rate control At 1 °C / min, when the water temperature drops to 40 °C, the water is cleaned and then washed into a tank of water. After the cold wash, press the bath to the required water to enter a tank of water;
  • hydrophilic softener and a hydrophilic soft olein to the washed fabric semi-finished product.
  • the semi-finished fabric of the washed fabric does not come out of the cylinder, and the acetic acid with a content of 0.5 g/L is directly added, and the mixture is immersed for 15 minutes under normal temperature.
  • Add hydrophilic softener and hydrophilic soft oil and soak for 20min at room temperature.
  • the hydrophilic softener is Dibaobao DPS produced by Suzhou Tongye Chemical Co., Ltd., the hydrophilic softener is 1% of the weight of the blank to be dyed, and the hydrophilic soft oil is Guangzhou Guangjian.
  • Hydrophilic soft olein SJ12 produced by Fine Chemical Co., Ltd., the amount of hydrophilic soft olein is 4% of the weight of the blank of the fabric to be dyed;
  • Example 1 The fabric obtained in Example 1 is sent to the National Knitting Product Quality Supervision and Inspection Center according to the standard GB/T11048-1989 (A method) to test the thermal insulation rate of the fabric, according to the standard FZ/T 73036-2010 to test the moisture absorption temperature of the fabric, according to the standard GB /T 21655.1-2008 Tests the hygroscopicity and quick-drying properties of fabrics. The results are shown below:
  • the heat preservation rate is 39.08%, which meets the requirements of ⁇ 30% of the national standard.
  • the average temperature rise value of moisture absorption and heat generation is 3.3 °C, which meets the requirements of ⁇ 3.0 °C of the national textile industry standard.
  • the water absorption rate is 426%, which meets the requirement of ⁇ 200% of the national standard.
  • the diffusion time of 5 drops of water is 1.3 seconds, which meets the requirement of national standard ⁇ 3 seconds.
  • the 6-core suction height is 160mm, which meets the requirements of national standard ⁇ 100mm.
  • a moisture-absorbing, heat-drying, moisturizing and warming fabric consisting of four kinds of yarns.
  • the first yarn is a regenerated cellulose spun yarn J45S100% Lenzing Modal
  • the second yarn is Shanghai Xingnuo Kangle fiber technology.
  • Co., Ltd. provides a modified polyester yarn of 75D/72F with a cross section of nano silver ions, and a third fiber is a 20S cotton high-ply carded yarn, and the fourth yarn is a Korean yarn.
  • Hyosung Spandex (Jiaxing) Co., Ltd. produces 20D and 40D polyurethane fiber yarns.
  • the preparation method of the moisture-absorbing and heat-drying moisturizing and warming fabric comprises the following steps in sequence:
  • the upper row is the arrangement of the upper needle knitting needles, and the lower row is the lower needle knitting needle arrangement; the upper row of the table in Figure 6 is the upper one.
  • the triangular arrangement of the needle knitting needles is located in the lower row table, which is the triangular arrangement of the lower needle knitting needles.
  • “ ⁇ ” and “ ⁇ ” are circled triangles, and “ ⁇ ” is a circle of triangles, “- "For the floating line triangle.
  • the weaving of the machine is carried out in the manner shown in Figures 4 to 6.
  • a total of ten roads are woven to complete a complete structure.
  • the first road is a single-sided weave with a needle half needle and the second needle is a needle for the second needle.
  • the fourth and fifth roads are single-sided weaving with the needle on the upper needle, the sixth road repeats the weaving of the first road, the seventh road is the lower needle, the second needle is half-needle, the second needle is the second needle, and the second needle is the half-needle. Double-sided weaving, the eighth road is the double-needle weaving of the lower needle 1st needle and the half needle stitching of the needle 2nd needle, and the ninth and tenth road repeating the fourth and fifth roads of single-sided weaving .
  • the yarns used in the first and sixth roads are 20S cotton high-grade carded yarn
  • the yarns used in the second, third, seventh and eighth roads are 75D/72F Kanglun provided by Shanghai Xingnuo Kanglun Fiber Technology Co., Ltd.
  • the yarn used in the fourth, fifth, ninth, and tenth roads is J45S100% Lenzing Modal and South Korea 40D polyurethane fiber yarn produced by Hyosung Spandex (Jiaxing) Co., Ltd.
  • the woven fabric is obtained as a three-layer structure of an outer layer, an intermediate layer and an inner layer, wherein the outer layer is composed of a first yarn and a fourth yarn, and the intermediate layer is composed of a second yarn and a fourth yarn.
  • the inner layer is composed of a second yarn, a third yarn, and a fourth yarn.
  • Figure 4 shows that the first and sixth roads of the lower needle single weave and the third and eighth roads of the lower needle loop knitted part form the inner layer of the fabric, the inner layer is the moisture absorption and quick drying layer of the fabric; the second and seventh roads are under the bottom layer.
  • the needle-forming part is theoretically the inner layer of the fabric, but because the coil index is 4, the coil contains polyurethane fiber, and the yarn used in the second and seventh roads and the 20S yarn used in the first and sixth roads. It is much thinner and stretched and is very tightly hidden in the middle of the fabric.
  • the second and seventh roads have a half-needle loop and a half-needle loop.
  • the half-needle gathers the braided parts together to form the middle layer of the fabric, the middle layer is the wicking double-guided wet antibacterial layer of the fabric;
  • the fourth, fifth, ninth and tenth roads are full of needles and single-sided weaving parts. Forming an outer layer of the fabric, the outer layer being a moisture absorbing moisture releasing layer of the fabric;
  • the finished fabric is connected to the predetermined fabric blank, the predetermined temperature is 200 °C, and the speed is 18m/min.
  • the amount of cloth fed is 40%;
  • the dyeing tank is fed with water to the required water level.
  • the predetermined blank is sequentially inserted into the cylinder head according to the capacity of each tube of the dyeing cylinder, and the cloth head is seamed. Synthesizing a rope loop that can be continuously dyed in a cylinder;
  • the fabric semi-finished product is obtained, that is, the fabric blank is immersed in the dyeing tank containing the treating agent for dyeing and finishing, and the degreaser DM- produced by Guangdong Demei Chemical Co., Ltd. is used as the treating agent.
  • 1140 content is 1g / L, Shanghai Yayun Fine Chemical Co., Ltd. produced Ya Shi slip NF anti-wrinkle agent content of 1g / L, Shanghai Xinze Chemical produced refining agent 0.5g / L, Hubei Yingcheng Shuanghuan chemical production of soda ash
  • the dyeing tank of the treatment agent with the content of 3g/L is pre-dyed before dyeing and finishing.
  • the water temperature before dyeing and finishing is 98°C
  • the holding time is 20min
  • the acetic acid content of Jiangsu Sopo Chemical Co., Ltd. is 0.5g/L after the treatment.
  • the water temperature is 30 ° C
  • the holding time is 20 min
  • the residual alkali on the cloth surface is neutralized;
  • the modified polyester yarn 75D/72F of the nano-silver ion cross-section is introduced into the low-elastic yarn of the polyester fiber 75D/72F, which is provided by Zhejiang Runtu Chemical Co., Ltd.
  • the disperse dye and the dye assistant are dyed in water to form a dye solution.
  • the disperse dye component is: disperse red 3B with a weight of 0.8% by weight of the fabric to be dyed, and the weight of the fabric to be dyed is 0.06% by weight.
  • Disperse yellow SE- RGFL the dispersion of the weight of the fabric to be dyed, 0.017% of the dispersion of blue 2BLN;
  • the selected dye additives include chelating dispersant, anti-wrinkle agent, high temperature leveling agent and acetic acid, dyeing solution, chelation
  • the dispersant is produced by Shanghai Yayun Fine Chemical Co., Ltd.
  • the Yajiru ARSK content is 1g/L
  • the anti-wrinkle agent is produced by Shanghai Yayun Fine Chemical Co., Ltd.
  • the Yasseng slip NF content is 1g/L
  • the high temperature leveling agent is The high temperature leveling agent DM-2108 produced by Guangdong Demei Chemical Co., Ltd.
  • the acetic acid is produced by Jiangsu Thorpe Chemical Co., Ltd. with an acetic acid content of 0.5g/L.
  • the temperature of the dyeing solution was controlled to 120 ° C and the holding time was 35 min.
  • the speed of the temperature rise and fall is controlled at 0.8 ° C / min;
  • the reducing cleaning liquid used is the Yashuang NF anti-wrinkle agent produced by Shanghai Yayun Fine Chemical Co., Ltd., Guangzhou Zhongcheng
  • the anti-wrinkle agent content is 2g / L
  • the sodium dithionite content is 1g / L
  • the soda ash content is 1.5g / L
  • reduction The temperature control during cleaning is 98 ° C, and the holding time is controlled to 20 min;
  • the reactive dye is a group of reactive dyes produced by Shanghai Dye 8 Factory.
  • the reactive dyes are: Reactive Brilliant Red M-3BE with a weight of 0.8% of the weight of the fabric to be dyed.
  • the active yellow M-3RE with a weight of 0.4% of the weight of the fabric to be dyed and the active black KN-B with a weight of 0.02% of the weight of the fabric to be dyed are mixed; the selected dye auxiliary includes a chelating dispersant and an anti-foaming agent.
  • the chelating dispersing agent is Yajirui ARSK produced by Shanghai Yayun Fine Chemical Co., Ltd.
  • the content is 1g/L
  • the anti-wrinkle agent is the Yashuang slip NF produced by Shanghai Yayun Fine Chemical Co., Ltd.
  • the content is 1 g/L.
  • the Yuanming powder is produced by Hubei Yingcheng Shuanghuan Chemical Co., Ltd., the dosage is 50g/L, and the Yuanming powder is directly added to the attached cylinder and water is added. Dilute at room temperature and stir evenly and evenly into the cylinder. The feeding time is controlled within 30 minutes. Finally, the fixing agent soda ash was added at room temperature, and the soda ash was produced by Hubei Yingcheng Shuanghuan Chemical Co., Ltd., the dosage was 15g/L, and it was added twice. The feeding time was controlled at 20min, and the dye was added directly to the tank and diluted with water.
  • the semi-finished fabric of the fabric is soaped and re-cold washed.
  • the soaping the water of the normal temperature pickling is discharged, and then the water is introduced into the tank water according to the bath water level, and the soaping agent is added through the dye attached cylinder, and the soaping agent is Mixing of detergent and chelating dispersant, the detergent is the detergent AR-812 of Jiangsu Hai'an Petrochemical Technology Development Co., Ltd., the content is: 3g/L, the chelating dispersant is Yajierui ARSK produced by Shanghai Yayun Fine Chemical Co., Ltd. has a content of 1g/L. While heating, the temperature is slowly increased. The heating rate is controlled at 1 °C/min.
  • the temperature After heating to 98 °C, the temperature is kept for 10 minutes. Then, the cooling water is slowly added to cool down. The cooling rate is controlled at 1 °C/min. When the water temperature drops to 40 °C, the water is cleaned. Then enter a tank of water and cold wash, after the cold wash is completed, press the bath to the required water to enter a tank of water;
  • hydrophilic softener and a hydrophilic soft olein to the washed fabric semi-finished product. After the net washing, the semi-finished fabrics are not out of the cylinder.
  • the acetic acid solution with a content of 1g/L is directly added, soaked at room temperature for 20 minutes, and then added with a hydrophilic softener and a hydrophilic soft oil to immerse and immerse for 30 minutes at room temperature.
  • the hydrophilic softener is the super fluffy super durable hydrophilic softener DP-9992 produced by Zhangjiagang Debao Chemical Co., Ltd.
  • the hydrophilic softener is 2% of the weight of the blank to be dyed, and the hydrophilic soft oil is Huizhou. Huaweixing Chemical Co., Ltd. produces hydrophilic soft olein RS, the amount of hydrophilic soft olein is 5% of the weight of the fabric to be dyed;
  • the heat preservation rate is 32.35%, which meets the requirements of ⁇ 30% of the national standard.
  • the average heating value of moisture absorption is 4.6 °C, which meets the requirements of ⁇ 3.0 °C of the national textile industry standard.
  • the water absorption rate is 321%, which meets the requirement of ⁇ 200% of the national standard.
  • the diffusion time of 5 drops of water is 2.6 seconds, which meets the requirement of national standard ⁇ 3 seconds.
  • the 6-core suction height is 126mm, which meets the requirements of national standard ⁇ 100mm.
  • a moisture-absorbing, heat-drying, moisturizing and warming fabric made of four kinds of yarns.
  • the first yarn is a regenerated cellulose fiber blended yarn of wool, linen and regenerated cellulose fiber.
  • J40S80S wool 30/bleached degummed linen 20 / Ultra-fine blue modal 50 compact spinning blended yarn, in which regenerated cellulose fiber accounts for 50% by weight
  • the second yarn is a cross section of Shanghai Xingnuo Kanglun Fiber Technology Co., Ltd. that introduces nano silver ions.
  • the preparation method of the moisture-absorbing and heat-drying moisturizing and warming fabric comprises the following steps in sequence:
  • the needle is located in the upper row, which is the arrangement of the upper needle knitting needles, and the lower row is the arrangement of the lower needle knitting needles; in the upper row of the table in Fig. 9, the triangular arrangement of the upper needle knitting needles is Located in the lower row of the table is the triangular arrangement of the needles of the lower needle cylinder.
  • “ ⁇ ” and “ ⁇ ” are circled triangles, “ ⁇ ” is a circle of triangles, and “-” is a triangle of floats.
  • the weaving of the machine is carried out in the manner shown in Figures 7 to 9.
  • a total of 12 roads are woven to complete a complete structure.
  • the first road is a single-sided weave with a needle half needle and the second road is a needle for the lower needle.
  • One-side weaving, the third way is the double-sided weaving of the upper needle 2nd needle and the half needle stitching of the lower needle 1st needle, and the fourth way is the single needle of the upper needle 2nd needle and the half needle.
  • the fifth road is a single-sided weaving with a needle full of needles
  • the sixth road is a double-sided weaving of the upper needle 1st needle and a half needle loop and the lower needle 2nd needle and a half needle loop
  • the seventh and the eighth road Repeat the first and second weaving.
  • the ninth road is the double-needle weaving of the upper needle 2nd needle and the half needle stitching of the second needle, and the fourth and the eleventh repeating the fourth and fifth.
  • the weaving of the road, the twelfth road is the double-sided weaving of the needle 1st needle and the half needle stitching of the needle 1st needle.
  • the yarns used in the first, fourth, seventh and tenth roads are J40S milk protein fiber 30/combed cotton 70 siro-spinning blended yarn double yarn incoming line, used in the second, fifth, eighth and eleventh roads.
  • Yarn is J40S80S wool 30/bleach degummed linen 20/ superfine blue modal 50 compact spinning blended yarn and INVISTA Fiber (Shanghai) Co., Ltd. produces 40D polyurethane fiber yarn, used in the third, sixth, ninth and twelfth roads
  • the yarn is a 75D/72F Kanglun fiber low-elastic yarn supplied by Shanghai Xingnuo Kanglun Fiber Technology Co., Ltd. and Invista Fiber (Shanghai) Co., Ltd. produces a coated yarn of 30D polyurethane fiber yarn.
  • the woven fabric is obtained as a three-layer structure of an outer layer, an intermediate layer and an inner layer, wherein the outer layer is composed of a first yarn and a fourth yarn, and the intermediate layer is composed of a second yarn and a fourth yarn.
  • the inner layer is composed of a second yarn, a third yarn, and a fourth yarn.
  • Figure 7 shows that the first, fourth, seventh, and tenth upper needle single-sided weaves and the third, sixth, nine, and twelve-way upper needles are knitted into the inner layer of the fabric, third, sixth, and ninth.
  • the coil index of the 12-way stitching is 0, plus the elastic contraction of the polyurethane fiber yarn and the splitting action of the lower needle ring, which makes the three, six, nine, and twelve roads
  • the formed upper needle inner layer coil is relatively small, and the first, fourth, seventh, and tenth upper needle single-sided braided coil index is 4, and there is no such two force acting, thus forming the upper needle inner layer coil Relatively large, the second, fifth, eighth, eleventh four-way four-sided woven polyurethane fiber yarn is more prominent under the elastic contraction, which is more conducive to the fleece of the subsequent dyeing and finishing process.
  • the layer is the moisture absorbing and quick-drying layer of the fabric; the third, sixth, ninth and twelve-way lower needle woven part forms the middle layer of the fabric, and the middle layer is the wicking double-guided wet antibacterial layer of the fabric; second, fifth, The outer part of the eight-way eleven needles is woven on one side to form the outer layer of the fabric, and the outer layer is the suction of the fabric.
  • the finished fabric is connected to the predetermined blank of the fabric, the predetermined temperature is 180 ° C, the speed is 15 m / min, and the amount of super-feeding fabric is 35%;
  • the water is fed to the bath to the required water level.
  • the shaped blanks are sequentially inserted into the cylinder head according to the capacity of each tube of the dyeing cylinder, and the cloth head cloth ends are stitched into a rope loop which can continuously dye the cylinder;
  • the fabric blank after the cylinder is dyed and finished to obtain the semi-finished fabric that is, the pretreatment of the fabric blank of the present embodiment is carried out in three steps.
  • the fabric blank is immersed in the dyeing tank containing the wool treatment agent for the dyeing and finishing of the wool component.
  • the wool treatment agent the PCF content of the degreaser produced by Clariant Textile Dye Auxiliary Co., Ltd. is 0.5g/L, Wuhan Xinhua Yang Bio Co., Ltd. produces a dyeing bath of 3g/L, a water temperature of 60 ° C before dyeing and finishing, and a holding time of 40 min.
  • the next step is to carry out linen, cotton fiber and ultrafine blue modal in the fabric blank.
  • C-2G for anti-wrinkle agent The content of C-2G for anti-wrinkle agent is 2G/L, and the water temperature before dyeing and finishing is 80. °C, holding time is 40min And finally with the 0.5g / L acetic acid at room temperature and the residual alkali, time is 20min;
  • the dyeing liquid used to dye the semi-finished fabrics before dyeing and finishing, the 75D/72F Kanglun fiber low-elastic yarn supplied by Shanghai Xingnuo Kanglun Fiber Technology Co., Ltd.
  • the dyeing liquid formed by disperse dyes and dye auxiliaries provided by Nippon Kayaku Co., Ltd. is used for dyeing.
  • the components of the disperse dyes are: Disperse Red AQ-LE with a weight of 0.015% by weight of the fabric to be dyed, and the weight is to be treated.
  • the dyed fabric blank weight is 0.025% dispersed blue AQ-LE, and the weight is 0.013% of the weight of the fabric to be dyed, and the dispersion of yellow AQ-LE is mixed;
  • the selected dye additives include chelating dispersant, anti-wrinkle agent, high temperature Leveling agent and acetic acid, dyeing solution, chelating dispersing agent is Yajierui ARSK produced by Shanghai Yayun Fine Chemical Co., Ltd., content is 1g/L, anti-wrinkle agent is produced by Shanghai Yayun Fine Chemical Co., Ltd.
  • High temperature leveling agent is the high temperature leveling agent DM-2108 produced by Guangdong Demei Chemical Co., Ltd.
  • the content is 0.5g / L
  • acetic acid is acetic acid produced by Jiangsu Thorpe Chemical Co., Ltd. It is 0.5g/L.
  • the temperature of the dye solution was controlled to 110 ° C and the holding time was 25 min.
  • the speed of the temperature rise and fall is controlled at 0.5 ° C / min;
  • the reducing cleaning liquid used is the Yashuang NF anti-wrinkle agent produced by Shanghai Yayun Fine Chemical Co., Ltd., Guangzhou Zhongcheng
  • the anti-wrinkle agent content is 1g / L
  • the sodium dithionite content is 0.5g / L
  • the soda ash content is 0.5g / L
  • the temperature control during the reduction cleaning is 85 ° C
  • the holding time is controlled to 15 min;
  • CN-3B is a mixture of active yellow CN-EX with a weight of 0.028% of the weight of the fabric to be dyed; the selected dye auxiliary includes a chelating dispersant, an anti-wrinkle agent, a dyeing liquid, and a chelating dispersing agent.
  • Yajierui ARSK produced by Shanghai Yayun Fine Chemical Co., Ltd. has a content of 1g/L and anti-wrinkle agent is the Yashuang slip NF produced by Shanghai Yayun Fine Chemical Co., Ltd., with a content of 1g/L.
  • the feeding time is controlled within 20 minutes.
  • the fixing agent soda ash is added at room temperature, and the soda ash is produced by Hubei Yingcheng Shuanghuan Chemical Co., Ltd., the dosage is 1g/L, and it is added in two portions.
  • the feeding time is controlled at 10min, and the dye is added directly to the tank and diluted with water. Slowly drive into the cylinder. After all the feeding is completed, the temperature is gradually increased, and the speed is controlled at 0.5 to 1 ° C / min. When the temperature is raised to 110 ° C, the temperature is kept warm, and after 30 minutes of heat preservation, the color is chased until the color reaches the confirmed color sample;
  • the semi-finished fabric of the fabric is soaped and re-cold washed.
  • the soaping the water of the normal temperature pickling is discharged, and then the water is introduced into the tank water according to the bath water level, and the soaping agent is added through the dye attached cylinder, and the soaping agent is Mixing of detergent and chelating dispersant, the detergent is the detergent AR-812 of Jiangsu Hai'an Petrochemical Technology Development Co., Ltd., the content is 1g/L, and the chelating dispersant is Shanghai.
  • Yajirui ARSK produced by Yayun Fine Chemical Co., Ltd. has a content of 1g/L. While heating, the temperature is slowly increased. The heating rate is controlled at 1 °C/min.
  • the temperature After heating to 85 °C, the temperature is kept for 10 minutes. Then slowly add cold water to cool down. The cooling rate is controlled at 1 °C/min. When the water temperature drops to 40 °C, the water is cleaned. Then enter a tank of water and cold wash, after the cold wash is completed, press the bath to the required water to enter a tank of water;
  • hydrophilic softener and a hydrophilic soft olein to the washed fabric semi-finished product. Washed The semi-finished fabric of the fabric does not come out of the cylinder, and the acetic acid with a content of 0.8 g/L is directly added, and the mixture is immersed for 20 minutes under normal temperature. Add hydrophilic softener and hydrophilic soft oil, and soak for 20min at room temperature.
  • the hydrophilic softener is Dibaobao DPS produced by Suzhou Tongye Chemical Co., Ltd., the hydrophilic softener is used in an amount of 1% by weight of the blank of the fabric to be dyed, and the hydrophilic softener is Huaweixing of Huizhou City. Chemical Co., Ltd. produces hydrophilic soft olein RS, the amount of hydrophilic soft olein is 5% of the weight of the fabric to be dyed;
  • the heat preservation rate is 42.08%, which meets the requirements of ⁇ 30% of the national standard.
  • the average temperature rise value of moisture absorption and heat generation is 3.9 °C, which meets the requirements of ⁇ 3.0 °C of the national textile industry standard.
  • the diffusion time of 5 drops of water is 0.7 seconds, which meets the requirement of national standard ⁇ 3 seconds.
  • the first yarn is a regenerated cellulose fiber blended yarn of cotton fiber and regenerated cellulose fiber.
  • the second yarn is cross-section modified polyester fiber yarn J40SCOOLDRY spun yarn produced by Shanghai Haitian Yingjie Textile Technology Co., Ltd.
  • the third type of yarn is a polyester staple fiber and cotton fiber blended cotton fiber blended yarn J32S60/40 cotton/COOLDRY blended yarn, wherein the weight percentage of cotton fiber accounts for 60%
  • the fourth yarn is Hangzhou Asahi Kasei Spandex. 30D polyurethane fiber yarn produced by the company.
  • the preparation method of the moisture-absorbing and heat-drying moisturizing and warming fabric comprises the following steps in sequence:
  • the weaving on the machine is carried out in the manner shown in Figures 10 to 12.
  • a total of six roads are woven to complete a complete structure.
  • the first road is a single-sided weave with a needle half needle and the second road is a needle with a needle needle.
  • the surface is woven, the third way is the double needle knitting of the upper needle 2nd needle and the half needle stitching of the lower needle 1st needle, and the fourth road is the single side weaving of the upper needle 2nd needle and the half needle.
  • the fifth road is a single-sided weaving with a needle full of needles, and the sixth road is a double-sided weaving of the upper needle 1st needle and the half needle loop and the lower needle 2nd needle and the half needle loop.
  • the first and fourth roads are J32S40/60COOLDRY/cotton blended yarns
  • the yarns used in the second and fifth roads are J32S cotton fiber/Massacell 30/70 blended yarn and 30D polyurethane fiber.
  • the third and sixth yarns used are J40SCOOLDRY spun yarn and 30D polyurethane fiber yarn.
  • the woven fabric is obtained as a three-layer structure of an outer layer, an intermediate layer and an inner layer, wherein the outer layer is composed of a first yarn and a fourth yarn, and the intermediate layer is composed of a second yarn and a fourth yarn.
  • the inner layer is composed of a second yarn, a third yarn, and a fourth yarn.
  • Figure 10 shows that the first and fourth way of the upper needle single weave and the third and sixth way of the upper needle loop knitting part form the inner layer of the fabric, and the stitch index of the third and sixth road stitches is 0, plus
  • the elastic contraction of the polyurethane fiber yarn and the splitting action of the lower needle ring have two forces, so that the upper needle inner layer coil formed by the third and sixth paths is relatively small, and the first, fourth, and road upper needles are single.
  • the surface weaving has a coil index of 4, and there is no effect of the above two forces. Therefore, the upper needle inner layer coil is relatively large, and the elastic force of the polyurethane fiber yarn woven by the second and fifth roads is single-sided. Under the action of shrinkage, it is more prominent, which is more conducive to the fleece of the subsequent dyeing and finishing process.
  • the inner layer is the moisture absorption and quick-drying layer of the fabric; the third and sixth roads of the lower needle tuck weave part form the middle layer of the fabric, and the middle layer is The wicking of the fabric is double-guided wet layer; the second and fifth way needles are woven on one side to form the outer layer of the fabric, and the outer layer is the moisture absorbing and moisture releasing layer of the fabric;
  • the finished fabric is connected to the predetermined blank of the fabric, the predetermined temperature is 190 ° C, the speed is 15 m / min, and the amount of super-feeding fabric is 25%;
  • the semi-finished fabric is obtained, that is, the fabric blank is immersed in the dyeing tank containing the oxygen bleaching agent for oxygen bleaching and dyeing, and the oxygen bleaching agent is in Wuhan Chengguang Chemical Co., Ltd.
  • the content of hydrogen peroxide produced by the company is 3g/L
  • the content of DXB-626 anti-wrinkle agent produced by Guangdong Demei Chemical Co., Ltd. is 1g/L
  • the content of refined agent DM-1361 produced by Guangdong Demei Chemical Co., Ltd. is The dyeing tank of 0.5g/L and Xinjiang Tianye Chemical Co., Ltd.
  • a treatment agent with a base acid NAOH content of 1g/L for dyeing and finishing before dyeing and finishing The water temperature before dyeing and finishing is 98 °C, the holding time is 40 min, and the temperature is raised and lowered. Controlled at 0.5 ⁇ 1°C/min.
  • the deoxygenase produced by Zhejiang Chuanhua Chemical Co., Ltd. is 0.1g/L, and the content of acetic acid produced by Jiangsu Thorpe Chemical Co., Ltd. is 0.5g/L. Oxygen and neutralize the alkali remaining on the cloth surface;
  • the dyeing liquid formed by disperse dyes and dye auxiliaries provided by Zhejiang Runtu Chemical Co., Ltd. is dissolved in water.
  • the components of the disperse dyes are: dispersed red S-5BL with a weight of 0.024% of the weight of the fabric to be dyed, and the weight is The weight of the fabric to be dyed is 0.84%, the dispersion of orange S-4RL, and the weight of the fabric to be dyed, 0.264%, of the dispersed blue S-3BG;
  • the selected dye additives include chelating dispersant, anti-wrinkle agent, High-temperature leveling agent and acetic acid, dyeing solution, chelating dispersing agent is Yajierui ARSK produced by Shanghai Yayun Fine Chemical Co., Ltd., content is 1g/L, anti-wrinkle agent is produced by Shanghai Yayun Fine Chemical Co., Ltd.
  • high temperature leveling agent is the high temperature leveling agent DM-2108 produced by Guangdong Demei Chemical Co., Ltd.
  • the content is 0.8g / L
  • acetic acid is acetic acid produced by Jiangsu Thorpe Chemical Co., Ltd.
  • the content is 1 g/L.
  • the reduction and cleaning of the semi-finished fabric of the modified polyester fiber yarn with high temperature dyeing is carried out by using the reducing cleaning liquid.
  • the reducing cleaning liquid used is the bath DXB-626 anti-wrinkle agent produced by Guangdong Demei Chemical Co., Ltd., Guangzhou Zhongzhong The sodium sulphite produced by Chenghua Chemical Co., Ltd. and the aqueous solution of soda ash produced by Hubei Yingcheng Shuanghuan Chemical Co., Ltd., wherein the anti-wrinkle agent content is 1.5g/L, the sodium dithionite content is 1g/L, and the soda ash content is 2g/L.
  • the temperature control during the reduction cleaning is 100 ° C, and the holding time is controlled to 25 min;
  • the reactive dye is a group of reactive dyes produced by Shanghai Dye No.8 Factory.
  • the reactive dyes are: Reactive Brilliant Red M-3BE with a weight of 0.23% by weight of the fabric to be dyed, and the active yellow weight of 1.08% by weight of the fabric to be dyed.
  • the active black KN-B with the weight of 0.37% of the weight of the fabric to be dyed is mixed;
  • the selected dye additives include chelating dispersant, anti-wrinkle agent, dye solution, and chelating dispersant Yajierui ARSK produced by Shanghai Yayun Fine Chemical Co., Ltd. has a content of 1g/L and anti-wrinkle agent is the Yashuang slip NF produced by Shanghai Yayun Fine Chemical Co., Ltd., with a content of 1g/L.
  • the dye is attached to the cylinder through the dye-attached cylinder, and the feeding time of the dye and its additives is controlled within 20 minutes. At the same time, let the cloth run for 20 minutes at room temperature in the dye solution. After the fabric is dyed with uniformity, the dyeing agent is added to the dyeing liquid at room temperature.
  • the Yuanming powder is produced by Hubei Yingcheng Shuanghuan Chemical Co., Ltd., and the content is 60g/L. Yuanming powder is directly added to the cylinder and water is added. Dilute at room temperature and stir evenly and evenly into the cylinder. The feeding time is controlled within 30 minutes.
  • the fixing agent is added to the base at room temperature, and the substitute base is produced by Zhejiang Chuanhua Chemical Co., Ltd., the content is 3g/L, added in two portions, the feeding time is controlled at 20min, and the dye is added directly to the tank and diluted with water. After slowly entering the cylinder, all the heating starts slowly, the speed is controlled at 0.5 ⁇ 1 °C / min, when the temperature is increased to 60 ° C, the insulation begins. After 45 minutes of heat preservation, the color is chased until the color reaches the color. Confirm the color sample.
  • the semi-finished fabric of the fabric is soaped and re-cold washed.
  • the soaping the water of the normal temperature pickling is discharged, and then the water is introduced into the tank water according to the bath water level, and the soaping agent is added through the dye attached cylinder, and the soaping agent is Mixing of detergent and chelating dispersant, the detergent is Nantong Zhanyi Chemical Co., Ltd., detergent 209, the content is 2g / L, the chelating dispersant is produced by Shanghai Yayun Fine Chemical Co., Ltd. Yajie Rui ARSK, the content is 1g / L.
  • the temperature is slowly increased. The heating rate is controlled at 1 °C/min.
  • the temperature After heating to 98 °C, the temperature is kept for 10 minutes. Then, the cooling water is slowly added to cool down. The cooling rate is controlled at 1 °C/min. When the water temperature drops to 40 °C, the water is cleaned. Then enter a tank of water and cold wash, after the cold wash is completed, press the bath to the required water to enter a tank of water;
  • hydrophilic softener and a hydrophilic soft olein to the washed fabric semi-finished product.
  • the semi-finished fabric of the washed fabric does not come out of the cylinder, and the acetic acid with a content of 0.75 g/L is directly added, and the mixture is immersed for 15 minutes under normal temperature.
  • Add hydrophilic softener and hydrophilic soft oil and soak for 25 minutes at room temperature.
  • the hydrophilic softener is Dibaobao DPS produced by Suzhou Tongye Chemical Co., Ltd., and the hydrophilic softener is 1% of the weight of the blank to be dyed, and the hydrophilic soft oil is fine for Guangzhou Guangjian.
  • Hydrophilic soft olein SJ12 produced by Chemical Co., Ltd., the amount of hydrophilic soft olein is 4% of the weight of the blank of the fabric to be dyed;
  • the heat preservation rate is 35.28%, which meets the requirements of ⁇ 30% of the national standard.
  • the average temperature rise value of moisture absorption and heat generation is 3.5 °C, which meets the requirements of ⁇ 3.0 °C of the national textile industry standard.
  • the water absorption rate is 376%, which meets the requirements of ⁇ 200% of the national standard.
  • the 6-core suction height is 172mm, which meets the national standard ⁇ 100mm.
  • a moisture-absorbing, heat-drying, moisturizing and warming fabric which is composed of four kinds of yarns
  • the first yarn is a regenerated cellulose fiber long-fiber yarn 120D viscose filament
  • the second yarn is Shanghai Haiguida Technology Co., Ltd.
  • the third yarn is polyester fiber and cotton fiber blended cotton fiber type mixed Spinning J32S20/80SUPERCOOL/cotton blended yarn, in which the weight percentage of cotton fiber is 80%
  • the fourth yarn is 30D polyurethane fiber yarn produced by Hangzhou Asahi Kasei Spandex Co., Ltd.
  • the preparation method of the moisture-absorbing and heat-drying moisturizing and warming fabric comprises the following steps in sequence:
  • the upper row is the arrangement of the upper needle knitting needles, and the lower row is the lower needle knitting needle arrangement; the upper row of the table in Figure 15 is the upper one.
  • the triangular arrangement of the needle knitting needles is located in the lower row table, which is the triangular arrangement of the lower needle knitting needles.
  • “ ⁇ ” and “ ⁇ ” are circled triangles, and “ ⁇ ” is a circle of triangles, “- "is a floating triangle;
  • the weaving of the machine is carried out in the manner shown in Figures 13 to 15.
  • a total of ten roads are woven to complete a complete structure.
  • the first road is a single-sided weave with a needle half needle and the second road is a needle needle for the second needle.
  • the third and fourth roads are the single-side weaving of the needle with the lower needle
  • the fifth road is the upper needle 1st needle and the half-needle is looped
  • the lower needle 2nd needle is used for the double-sided knitting of the half-needle ring.
  • the sixth road is the single-side knitting of the upper needle 1st needle and the half needle.
  • the seventh road is the upper needle 2nd needle and the half needle is formed into the circle and the lower needle.
  • the 2nd needle is used for the double-sided weaving of the half-needle tuck
  • the eighth and the ninth road are the single-sided weaving of the needle with the lower needle
  • the tenth is the needle No. 1 Needle-out half-needle looping and lower needle 1st needle out of the half-needle lap.
  • the first and sixth roads are J32S20/80SUPERCOOL/cotton blended yarns
  • the yarns used in the second, fifth, seventh and tenth roads are SUPERCOOL75D/72F polyester fiber low elastic yarn and 30D polyurethane fiber yarn.
  • the yarns used in the third, fourth, eighth and ninth roads are 120D viscose filaments and 30D polyurethane fiber yarns.
  • the woven fabric is obtained as a three-layer structure of an outer layer, an intermediate layer and an inner layer, wherein the outer layer is composed of a first yarn and a fourth yarn, and the intermediate layer is composed of a second yarn and a fourth yarn.
  • the inner layer is composed of a second yarn, a third yarn, and a fourth yarn.
  • Figure 13 shows that the first and sixth paths of the upper needle single weave and the fifth and tenth stitches of the upper stitch form the inner layer of the fabric, the first and sixth paths have a coil index of 3, and the coil is relatively large,
  • the coil index of the five or ten roads is 0, and the formed coil is relatively small, which is more conducive to the subsequent gripping of the inner layer fabric, the inner layer is the moisture absorption and quick-drying layer of the fabric; the second and seventh roads are formed by the needle.
  • the circle part is theoretically also the inner layer of the fabric, but because the coil index is 4, the coil contains polyurethane fiber, and the yarn used in the second and seventh roads and the yarn used in the first and sixth roads are much finer. And it is stretched and drawn very tightly in the middle of the fabric.
  • the second and seventh roads are stitched into a circle, the double stitching of the lower needle ring and the fifth and tenth lower needles are knitted.
  • the middle layer is the wicking double-guided wet layer of the fabric;
  • the third, fourth, eighth, and ninth roads are partially woven by the lower needle to form the outer layer of the fabric, and the outer layer is the moisture absorbing and releasing of the fabric.
  • the finished fabric is connected to the predetermined blank of the fabric, the predetermined temperature is 195 ° C, the speed is 18 m / min, and the amount of overfeeding fabric is 15%;
  • the dyeing tank is fed with water to the required water level.
  • the predetermined blanks are sequentially inserted into the cylinder head according to the capacity of each tube of the dyeing cylinder, and the cloth head is stitched into a Rope ring running continuously dyeing cylinder;
  • the semi-finished fabric is obtained, that is, the fabric blank is immersed in the dyeing tank containing the oxygen bleaching agent for oxygen bleaching and dyeing, and the oxygen bleaching agent is produced by Wuhan Chengguang Chemical Co., Ltd.
  • the content of hydrogen peroxide is 3g/L
  • the content of DXB-626 anti-wrinkle agent produced by Guangdong Demei Chemical Co., Ltd. is 1g/L
  • the content of refined agent DM-1361 produced by Guangdong Demei Chemical Co., Ltd. is 0.5g/L.
  • the dyeing tank of the treatment agent with a base alkali NAOH content of 0.75g/L produced by Xinjiang Tianye Chemical Co., Ltd. is pre-dyed before dyeing and finishing.
  • the water temperature before dyeing and finishing is 98 °C
  • the holding time is 40 min
  • the lifting temperature is controlled at 0.5. ⁇ 1°C/min.
  • the deoxygenase produced by Zhejiang Chuanhua Chemical Co., Ltd. is 0.1g/L.
  • the acetic acid produced by Jiangsu Thorpe Chemical Co., Ltd. is 0.5g/L, deoxygenated and medium. And the alkali remaining on the cloth surface;
  • the disperse dye and the dye auxiliary agent are dissolved in water to form a dye solution.
  • the disperse dye component is: disperse red S-5BL with a weight of 0.02% by weight of the fabric to be dyed, and the weight is 0.7% of the weight of the fabric to be dyed.
  • the dispersed orange S-4RL is mixed with the dispersed blue S-3BG with a weight of 0.22% of the weight of the fabric to be dyed;
  • the selected dye auxiliary includes a chelating dispersant, an anti-wrinkle agent, a high-temperature leveling agent and acetic acid.
  • the chelating dispersing agent is Yajirui ARSK produced by Shanghai Yayun Fine Chemical Co., Ltd., the content is 1g/L
  • the anti-wrinkle agent is the Yashuang slip NF produced by Shanghai Yayun Fine Chemical Co., Ltd., the content is 1g.
  • high temperature leveling agent is high temperature leveling agent DM-2108 produced by Guangdong Demei Chemical Co., Ltd., the content is 0.5g / L
  • acetic acid is acetic acid produced by Jiangsu Thorpe Chemical Co., Ltd., the content is 1g / L.
  • the reduction and cleaning of the semi-finished fabric of the modified polyester fiber yarn with high temperature dyeing is carried out by using the reducing cleaning liquid.
  • the reducing cleaning liquid used is the bath DXB-626 anti-wrinkle agent produced by Guangdong Demei Chemical Co., Ltd., Guangzhou Zhongzhong The sodium sulphite produced by Chengcheng Chemical Co., Ltd. and the aqueous solution of soda ash produced by Hubei Yingcheng Shuanghuan Chemical Co., Ltd., wherein the anti-wrinkle agent content is 1g/L, the sodium dithionite content is 1g/L, and the soda ash content is 2g/L.
  • the temperature control during cleaning is 95 ° C, and the holding time is controlled to 20 min;
  • the reactive dye is a group of reactive dyes produced by Shanghai Dye No.8 Factory.
  • the reactive dyes are: Reactive Brilliant Red M-3BE with a weight of 0.275% of the weight of the fabric to be dyed, and the active yellow weight of 1.26% of the weight of the fabric to be dyed.
  • M-3RE is a mixture of active black KN-B with a weight of 0.43% of the weight of the fabric to be dyed; the selected dyeing agent includes a chelating dispersant, an anti-wrinkle agent, a dyeing solution, and a chelating dispersing agent.
  • Yajierui ARSK produced by Shanghai Yayun Fine Chemical Co., Ltd. has a content of 1g/L and anti-wrinkle agent is the Yashuang slip NF produced by Shanghai Yayun Fine Chemical Co., Ltd., with a content of 1g/L.
  • the semi-finished fabric of the fabric is soaped and re-cold washed.
  • the soaping the water of the normal temperature pickling is discharged, and then the water is introduced into the tank water according to the bath water level, and the soaping agent is added through the dye attached cylinder, and the soaping agent is Mixing of detergent and chelating dispersant, the detergent is Nantong Zhanyi Chemical Co., Ltd., detergent 209, the content is 2g / L, the chelating dispersant is produced by Shanghai Yayun Fine Chemical Co., Ltd. Yajie Rui ARSK, the content is 1g / L.
  • the temperature is slowly increased. The heating rate is controlled at 1 °C/min.
  • the temperature After heating to 98 °C, the temperature is kept for 10 minutes. Then, the cooling water is slowly added to cool down. The cooling rate is controlled at 1 °C/min. When the water temperature drops to 40 °C, the water is cleaned. Then enter a tank of water and cold wash, after the cold wash is completed, press the bath to the required water to enter a tank of water;
  • the hydrophilic softening agent is a super fluffy super durable hydrophilic softening agent DP-9992 produced by Zhangjiagang Debao Chemical Co., Ltd., and the hydrophilic softening agent is used in an amount of 0.5% by weight of the blank of the fabric to be dyed, and the hydrophilic soft oil Fine for Huizhou Huaweixing Chemical Co., Ltd. to produce hydrophilic soft oil RS, the amount of hydrophilic soft oil is 4% of the weight of the fabric to be dyed;
  • the heat preservation rate is 32.58%, which meets the requirements of ⁇ 30% of the national standard.
  • the average temperature rise value of moisture absorption and heat generation is 3.7 °C, which meets the requirements of ⁇ 3.0 °C of the national textile industry standard.
  • the water absorption rate is 326%, which meets the requirement of ⁇ 200% of the national standard.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
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  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Abstract

一种吸湿发热快干保湿保暖面料及其制备方法。该面料由第一纱线、第二纱线、第三纱线以及第四纱线编织而成，其中：第一纱线为麻、羊毛或羊绒以及棉纤维中的一种或者多种与再生纤维素纤维混纺而成的再生纤维素纤维型混纺纱线、或者为再生纤维素长纤纱、或者为再生纤维素短纤纱；第二纱线为非圆形截面的改性聚酯纤维纱线；第三纱线为聚酯短纤或聚丙烯腈纤维中的一种或两种与棉纤维混纺的棉纤维型混纺纱线、或者为全棉纱线；第四纱线为聚氨酯纤维纱线。该面料吸湿发热值超过国家标准，吸湿快干性能优良而且保温率达到国家标准，该面料还具有舒适的弹性和贴身面柔软细腻的手感。同时，其制备方法工艺简单，操作方便。

Description

吸湿发热快干保湿保暖面料及其制备方法 技术领域
本发明属于针织服装面料技术领域，具体是指一种吸湿发热快干保湿保暖面料及其制备方法。
背景技术
近年来，我国针织工业的发展趋向主要集中在新型材料纤维的应用、新型纺纱技术的推广、节能环保染色技术的应用以及工业化和信息化的两化融合技术应用等方面，围绕这些发展趋向，各针织企业从硬件到软件都有了长足的发展进步，主要包括各类新技术、新工艺、新设备、新型环保染化料助剂、新控制手段、新品质标准的运用。
随着人们生活水平地逐步提高，人们对针织成衣的综合热湿舒适性能又提出了更高的要求。由中华人民共和国工业和信息化部颁布的《吸湿发热针织内衣》标准于2010年12月实施以来，吸湿发热值能达到该标准要求的针织面料大都以日本东洋纺织株式会社的吸湿发热纤维EKS原料为主混纺的纱线进行编织完成，由于其混纺的纤维大多为聚丙烯腈原料，但其起毛起球性能较差，长时间着装会影响成衣面料的外观。如何突破日本的原料技术壁垒，利用国内现有的天然原料、再生纤维素纤维和成熟了的化纤原料新品开发全新的吸湿发热面料迫在眉睫。目前运用于贴身着装的针织服装面料大都采用棉、莫代尔、粘胶、羊毛羊绒、桑蚕丝、麻类等天然的纤维素纤维、蛋白质纤维和再生纤维素纤维及其混纺的原料纱线，具有天然吸湿抗菌保暖护肤的功能，辅之于氨纶弹性纱线的导入，针织服装具有了比梭织成衣更好的塑身效果和自由舒展功能。但这些面料存在导湿放湿动力不足的问题，长时间着装，稍微运动会出汗并吸附在面料上，大量汗液得不到及时排出，在人体运动量减少或静止不动时无法及时排出的汗液黏在身上会产生湿冷感，舒适性能较差。并且，蒸发速率和透湿量是对面料速干性评价的两项表征指标，它们所表征的都是面料整体的蒸发速率和透湿量，对面料里、外两层速干性能的差异性无法单独表征，而现实状况是针织产品开发人员已研究出了大量的吸湿快干产品，大部分产品是汗液很快透过织物的里层转移到织物的外层，里层的快干性能远大于织物的外层，通过这种方式达到汗液从里到外的快速转移从而达到皮肤持续干爽的目的。但这些面料的开发大都局限于运动针织面料产品的开发，很少将这种理念用于对针织内衣面料的开发。另外，为了达到国家关于保暖针织内衣保温率不 得低于30％标准的要求，市面上的保暖针织内衣大多采用空气层夹丝的织造工艺，织物弹性差而且长时间着装夹丝层的聚酯纤维低弹丝会钻出来起毛起球，严重影响内衣的外观和服用性能。除弹性差和起毛起球等缺陷外，该类织物的透气透湿性能极差，着装时易产生强烈的闷热感和湿冷感。
发明内容
本发明的目的是要提供一种吸湿发热快干保湿保暖面料，该面料吸湿发热值远远超过国家标准要求，吸湿快干性能优良而且保温率达到国家关于保暖针织内衣标准的要求，同时，本发明的面料还具有舒适的弹性和贴身面柔软细腻的手感。
为实现上述目的，本发明的吸湿发热快干保湿保暖面料，其特殊之处在于，它由第一纱线、第二纱线、第三纱线以及第四纱线四种纱线编织而成，其中：第一纱线为麻、羊毛或羊绒以及棉纤维中的一种或者多种与再生纤维素纤维混纺而成的再生纤维素纤维型混纺纱线、或者为再生纤维素长纤纱、或者为再生纤维素短纤纱；第二纱线为非圆形截面的改性聚酯纤维纱线；第三纱线为聚酯短纤或聚丙烯腈纤维中的一种或两种与棉纤维混纺的棉纤维型混纺纱线、或者为全棉纱线；第四纱线为聚氨酯纤维纱线。
优选地，所述非圆形截面的改性聚酯纤维纱线是截面为十字截面、Y型截面或∞型截面的改性聚酯纤维纱线。
进一步优选地，所述面料为外层、中间层、里层构成的三层结构，所述外层由第一纱线和第四纱线编织构成，所述中间层由第二纱线的和第四纱线编织构成，所述里层由第二纱线、第三纱线和第四纱线编织构成。
再进一步优选地，所述再生纤维素纤维型混纺纱线中，按照重量百分比，再生纤维素纤维占50～80％。所述棉纤维型混纺纱线中，按照重量百分比，棉纤维占60～90％。
本发明所述的吸湿发热快干保湿保暖面料的制备方法，其特殊之处在于：它依次包括以下步骤：
1)根据所设计的面料选择第一纱线、第二纱线、第三纱线和第四纱线原料；
2)将原料上机织造，织造时为后道工序的开幅定型预留好剖幅线，得到面料毛坯；
3)将所得面料毛坯沿剖幅线剖幅并同时全检入库；
4)将检验合格的面料毛坯由卷装退卷装入布车，然后接疋成连续状；
5)将整车接好疋的面料毛坯进行预定型，预定型温度为170～200℃，车速15～25m/min，超喂布料量为15～40％；
6)根据配缸的面料毛坯重量和浴比给染缸进水，预定型好的面料毛坯进 缸后，将布头布尾缝合成可以连续染缸运行的绳环状；
7)对进缸好的面料毛坯进行染整前处理得面料半成品；
8)采用染色液对染整前处理好的面料半成品中非圆型截面的改性聚酯纤维纱线进行染色；
9)采用还原清洗液对染色后的面料半成品进行还原清洗，还原清洗时温度控制为85～100℃、保温时间控制为15～30min，；
10)将还原清洗液放尽，然后进水对面料半成品进行热洗，所述热洗温度控制为85～98℃、保温时间控制为10～20min，洗净后，再进水冷洗10～20min；
11)对面料半成品的其他纤维进行再次染色；
12)对再次染色的面料半成品进行冷洗和酸洗；
13)接着对面料半成品进行皂洗和再次冷洗，直至将染料浮色洗净；
14)然后对面料半成品上亲水性柔软剂和上亲水性软油精；
15)对面料半成品进行烘干后进行拉毛处理；
16)对拉毛好了的面料半成品进行复定型，得到面料光坯，复定型温度为150～160℃，车速为15～25m/min，超喂布料量为25～50％；
17)将所得面料光坯全检成卷入库。
优选地，所述步骤2)中，上机织造方法为：
第一和第四纱线采用上针出满针单面编织的方式进线形成织物的外层；第二纱线和第四纱线采取下针一隔一出半针成圈编织和上针一隔一出半针集圈编织的双面编织方式进线编织，第三纱线采用下针一隔一出半针单面进线编织；其中：第二纱线和第四纱线上针一隔一出半针集圈编织部分构成织物的中间层：第三纱线的单面进线编织和第二纱线、第四纱线下针一隔一出半针成圈编织部分共同构成织物的里层；或者：
第一和第四纱线采用下针出满针单面编织的方式进线形成织物的外层；第二纱线和第四纱线采取上针一隔一出半针成圈编织和下针一隔一出半针集圈编织的双面编织方式进线编织，第三纱线采用上针一隔一出半针单面进线编织；其中：第二纱线和第四纱线下针一隔一出半针集圈编织部分构成织物的中间层：第三纱线的单面进线编织和第二纱线、第四纱线上针一隔一出半针成圈编织部分共同构成织物的里层。
优选地，所述步骤6)中，浴比为1∶5～15。
进一步优选地，所述步骤8)中，染色时，染色液的温度控制为110～130℃，保温时间为20～45min，染色液升、降温的速度控制为0.5～1℃/min。所述染色液由分散染料和染料助剂混合而成，其中染料助剂包括含量为0.5～1.5g/L的螯合分散剂，含量为0.5～2g/L的防皱剂，含量0.5～1g/L的高温匀染剂，含量为0.5～1g/L的醋酸。
更进一步优选地，步骤9)中，所用还原清洗液是防皱剂、连二亚硫酸钠和纯碱溶液的混合液，其中防皱剂含量为1～2g/L、连二亚硫酸钠含量为0.5～1g/L、纯碱含量为0.5～2g/L。
再进一步优选地，所述步骤14)中，亲水性柔软剂用量为待染面料毛坯重量的0.5～2％，亲水性软油精用量为待染面料毛坯重量的3～5％。
还进一步优选地，所述步骤14)中，对面料半成品上亲水性柔软剂和上亲水性软油精前，先对面料半成品进行酸洗10～20min。
还进一步地，所述步骤13)中，皂洗时所用皂洗剂为净洗剂和螯合分散剂两种助剂的混合物，皂洗剂中净洗剂含量为1～3g/L，螯合分散剂含量为1～2g/L。
本发明所述吸湿发热快干保湿保暖面料吸湿发热、吸湿快干、保湿、保暖的原理如下：
吸湿发热原理：具有吸湿性的吸湿发热面料组分的选择必须具备较好亲水性或较强的芯吸导湿功能，本发明所选用原料以富含较多亲水性基团的再生纤维素纤维和棉纤维为主要原料，所得面料本身就具有较好的吸水性能。当进一步地选用的十字截面、Y型截面或∞型截面等非原型截面的改性聚酯纤维纱线具有比普通圆截面的聚酯纤维纱线更大的比表面积和比表面能，具有较强的芯吸导湿功能，从而使面料成品的吸水率指标达到了国家标准要求或以上。但面料仅有吸水率一项指标达标不一定就是吸湿发热的面料，本发明在编织时，将以再生纤维素纤维为主要成分的第一纱线原料主要放在织物的外层，将以棉纤维为主的第三纱线原料放在织物的里层，这样面料吸湿后水分子在面料内部会因吸湿性差异而产生由里至外的转移运动，水分子在面料内部的不停转移剧烈运动才会产生积分热和微分热，动能转化成热能起到发热作用。最后是面料必须具备阻隔热量散失的足够厚度或内存较多的中空度和静止空气，本发明采用第一纱线和第四纱线出满针单面编织的方式形成织物的外层，外层织物相对紧密，因而为有效阻隔热量散失创造了条件，采用第三纱线一隔一出半针不加第四纱线的聚氨酯纤维纱线的方式单面编织形成织物里层的主要成分，织物相对稀疏，再加上后道工序的抓毛起绒产生许多微小空隙，内存较多静止空气，这样吸湿水分子运动转化成的热能就不易散失，吸湿最高升温值和平均升温值就会达到国家标准要求。
吸湿快干原理：我国国家标准对吸湿性能的表征主要是以下三个指标：吸水率，滴水扩散时间和芯吸高度；对快干性能的表征主要有以下两项指标：蒸发速率和透湿量。但上述五项指标对吸湿快干性能的表征存在一定的局限性，只能表征整块面料的吸湿快干性能，而对面料的里外层吸湿快干性能的差异则无法表征。本发明的面料里、外层使用的原料公定回潮率存在一定差异，里层面料也亲水，但加权平均公定回潮率相对较小，外层面料亲水且加权平均公定 回潮率远大于里层面料的加权平均公定回潮率。里层面料的快干不仅通过表层的自然蒸发快干渠道，还可以通过外层面料的强力吸湿渠道，使得里层吸湿的水分透过中间的芯吸导湿层快速转移到外层并迅速扩散，从而达到里层的快干性能明显优于外层。
保湿原理：织物的中间层为第二纱线非圆型截面的改性聚酯纤维纱线和第四纱线聚氨酯纤维纱线共同编织构成，因非圆型截面的改性聚酯纤维纱线具有较大的比表面积因而具有较强的芯吸导湿作用。这种芯吸导湿作用是双向的，既可以从织物的里层向外层排湿，也可以从织物的外层向里层导湿。本发明织物的外层原料加权平均公定回潮率大，原料本身含大量亲水性基团，辅之以后整理的亲水性柔软整理，因而具有较强扑捉空气中水分子的作用，当空气中存在一定量水分子时，织物的外层就会吸附大量的水分子，并透过织物的中间层导湿给织物的里层，从而达到吸湿平衡，达到保湿延缓人体衰老的目的。人体大量汗液排出时会迅速转移至织物的外层，织物的外层因大量亲水性基团水分的蒸发速率相对较慢，外层的充足的水分为里层保湿创造了条件。当人体皮肤变得干燥时，外层会从空气中扑捉的水分或从之前吸湿储湿还未完全来得及蒸发挥发的水分中，通过织物的中间层的双向导湿功能向织物的里层导湿以求达到吸湿平衡，从而达到保湿目的。
保暖原理：面料组织结构的中空设计对带聚氨酯纤维的面料保温率的提升并不明显，而采用面料里层的抓毛设计，保温率的提升非常显著。通过抓毛后织物的里层会产生大量的微小空隙，内存大量静止空气，再加上外层聚氨酯纤维纱线的导入，外层织物相对紧密，有效阻止空气在人体和织物外层之间的流动，通过大量静止空气的保有量而达到大幅提升面料保温率的目的。本发明就是通过里层抓毛的后整理工艺使面料里层产生很多微小的空隙，微小空隙里内存大量静止空气，辅之以外层第一和第四纱线出满针编织的织造方式，由于第四纱线为聚氨酯纤维纱线具有很好的弹性和收缩性能，外层织物因出满针和第四线的导入而变得相对紧密，对身体热量的散失可以起到有效阻隔作用，从而达到保暖的目的。
为实现本发明设计的面料所具有吸湿发热快干和保湿保暖的功能，上机编织工艺图的设计基于以下几个原则：一，最大限度地发挥各原料组分的吸湿和快干性能，尤其是从织物的里层向外层排湿的性能。本发明采用第三纱线不加聚氨酯纤维纱线，上针或下针一隔一出半针的进线单面编织方式，使织物的结构抓毛后更加稀疏，有利于里层透湿和快干，织物的外层采用第一和第四纱线下针或上针出满针的编织方式，织物相对紧密，更有利于里层湿气的快速向外转移和聚集。二，在不影响各原料组分亲水性能的前提下，通过织造工艺的优化设计，改变各组分的比例达到最大限度地降低里层面料的加权平均回潮率， 增加外层面料的各组分的加权平均回潮率。本发明组织结构设计通过采用第二纱线和第四纱线采取上针或下针一隔一出半针成圈编织，相对应的下针或上针一隔一出半针集圈编织的方式，参与到里层和中间层织物的设计，不参与外层织物的设计，这样可以因改性聚酯纤维低弹丝的公定回潮率低而有效降低织物里层各组分的加权平均公定回潮率，不影响和降低外层各组分的加权平均公定回潮率，更有助于里层的透湿导湿快干。三，要更有利于里层抓毛起绒，同时还要兼顾握持住抓毛的根部不掉毛的原则。本发明在上机织造时通过对各进纱路数的先后合理调整设计，灵活应用针织工程学科领域有关线圈指数的理论，使得上机制造所得到的第三纱线起绒成圈线圈变得很长很大凸在织物表面利于后整理抓毛起绒，锁住起绒第三纱线线圈根部的参与里层结构的第二纱线和第四纱线成圈线圈变得很小凹进去，以免抓毛时抓伤到它而影响到锁住功能的发挥而产生掉毛的现象。第三纱线可以固定在一种织针出半针单面编织，也可以两种织针轮流出半针单面编织。每一路第一纱线和第四纱线出满针单面编织和第三纱线出半针单面编织，必须对应设计一路第二纱线和第四纱线一隔一半针出针成圈编织、相对应另一盘的织针一隔一出半针集圈编织的里、外层连接的双面编织，此路双面编织参与成圈编织的织针和第三纱线出半针单面编织的织针为同一种织针，以使该双面编织的成圈形成的线圈牢牢锁住第三纱线形成线圈的根部，为后续工序抓毛后不掉毛创造条件。四，面料必须具有舒适弹性的原则。为了使面料具有较好舒适的弹性，本发明织物的组织结构设计除了要抓毛起绒的第三纱线的进纱路数不导入聚氨酯纤维纱线外，其他进纱路数都引入或导入聚氨酯纤维纱线，聚氨酯纤维纱线具有优良的拉伸性能和回复性能，抓毛起绒的第三纱线的进纱路数不导入聚氨酯纤维纱线将利于后续工序抓毛，这样就会在保证面料足够弹性的基础上又不影响到里层的抓毛起绒。
同时在制备方法中，采用含分散染料及助剂染色液染完改性聚酯纤维后，尤其是染完中深色后必须经过还原清洗工序，主要目的是为了除去高温升华后的沾在改性聚酯纤维上的染料浮色以及分散染料沾在其他原料上的浮色，从而提升整个面料的染色色牢度。还原清洗完后要进行热洗、冷洗，为后续工序对再生纤维素纤维、棉纤维和其他纤维的染色做好准备。采用活性染料或其他染料及助剂，根据面料毛坯还未染色的组分合理选择染色工艺曲线对以上面料半成品进行再生纤维素纤维、棉纤维和其他纤维进行染色。染色完毕后进行冷洗和酸洗，慢慢给缸体加入冷水降温，降温的同时放水，放水结束后再按浴比所要求的水位进一缸水常温下酸洗，主要目的是中和布面上残留的碱，酸洗完后用皂洗剂进行皂洗，尽最大限度去除所有染料浮色，直至将染料浮色洗净，然后慢慢加冷水降温，放水干净后再进一缸水冷洗，冷洗完毕后再按浴比所要求的水进一缸水，将浮色通过皂洗和再次冷洗干净后的面料半成品上亲水性柔软 剂和对上亲水性软油精。洗净后的面料半成品不出缸，加入亲水柔软剂和亲水性软油精，常温下循环浸泡20～30min。加入亲水柔软剂和亲水性软油精之前，可采用弱酸对面料半成品进行酸洗10～20min，调节染液的PH值在4.5～6之间，使染液呈弱酸性，因为亲水性柔软剂和亲水性软油精在弱酸条件下对布面过软亲水柔软效果会更好。上亲水性柔软剂是针对第二纱线的非圆型改性聚酯纱线或第三纱线中的聚酯短纤亲水性柔软整理；上亲水性软油精是针对第三纱线、第一纱线中的棉纤维或第一纱线中的麻、羊毛或羊绒及再生纤维素纤维亲水性柔软整理。经过亲水柔软处理后的布面要求手感柔软、亲水效果优良和棉纤维蓬松有利于后续工序的抓毛起绒的原则，对亲水处理好了的面料半成品用拉伸预缩烘干机进行烘干，对烘干好的面料半成品上拉毛机拉毛，拉毛效果要求较长而且均匀细腻手感好，拉毛工序直接关系到面料的质感和面料保温率指标的达成。最后对拉毛好了的面料成品进行复定型，复定型的温度不得超过160℃，以免聚酯纤维上的分散染料分子再次升华游离形成浮色而降低面料的染色色牢度。
附图说明
图1是实施例1所述面料上机织造的编织工艺示意图。
图2是实施例1所述面料上机织造的织针排列方式示意图。
图3是实施例1所述面料上机织造的织针三角排列方式示意图。
图4是实施例2所述面料上机织造的编织工艺示意图。
图5是实施例2所述面料上机织造的织针排列方式示意图。
图6是实施例2所述面料上机织造的织针三角排列方式示意图。
图7是实施例3所述面料上机织造的编织工艺示意图。
图8是实施例3所述面料上机织造的织针排列方式示意图。
图9是实施例3所述面料上机织造的织针三角排列方式示意图。
图10是实施例4所述面料上机织造的编织工艺示意图。
图11是实施例4所述面料上机织造的织针排列方式示意图。
图12是实施例4所述面料上机织造的织针三角排列方式示意图。
图13是实施例5所述面料上机织造的编织工艺示意图。
图14是实施例5所述面料上机织造的织针排列方式示意图。
图15是实施例5所述面料上机织造的织针三角排列方式示意图。
具体实施方式
下面结合附图和具体实施例对本发明的吸湿发热快干保湿保暖面料的制备方法作进一步详细说明。
实施例1
一种吸湿发热快干保湿保暖面料，由四种纱线编织而成，第一纱线为棉纤 维和再生纤维素纤维混纺的再生纤维素纤维型混纺纱线J40S兰精莫代尔/棉50/50混纺纱，其中再生纤维素纤维的重量百分比占50％；第二纱线为上海海天盈捷纺织科技有限公司生产的十字截面的改性聚酯纤维纱线COOLDRY75D/72F；第三纱线为20S全棉高配普梳纱；第四纱线为杭州旭化成氨纶有限公司生产的30D聚氨酯纤维纱线。
该吸湿发热快干保湿保暖面料的制备方法，依次包括以下步骤：
1)根据所设计的面料选择上述四种纱线原料，并根据机型的实际情况准备好上机时以上四种原料所必须的原料管头数；
2)将原料上机织造，织造时为后道工序的开幅定型预留好剖幅线，得到面料毛坯；上机织造时按附图1所示的编织工艺图进行编织，织针的排列按附图2所示方式排列，织针的三角排列按附图3所示方式排列。附图1、附图3中的①②③④⑤⑥为进纱路数编号；附图1显示为共六路编织，附图2上、下排中的1、2是根据织针针锺高低的不同对织针编号成1号针、2号针，位于上排的是上针盘织针的排列方式，位于下排的是下针筒织针排列方式；附图3中位于上排表格中的是上针盘织针的三角排列方式，位于下排表格中的是下针筒织针的三角排列方式，图中“∧”、“∨”为成圈三角，“凵”为集圈三角，“-”为浮线三角；
上机织造按附图1～3所示方式进行，共六路编织完成一个完全组织，第一路为下针1号针出半针成圈和上针2号针出半针集圈的双面编织，第二路为下针1号针出半针成圈的单面编织，第三路为上针出满针的单面编织，第四路为下针1号针出半针成圈和上针1号针出半针集圈的双面编织，第五路重复第二路的编织，第六路重复第三路的编织。其中，第一、四路使用的纱线为上海海天盈捷纺织科技有限公司生产的十字截面的改性聚酯纤维纱线COOLDRY75D/72F和杭州旭化成氨纶有限公司生产的30D聚氨酯纤维纱线，第二、五路使用的纱线为20S全棉高配普梳纱，第三、六路使用的纱线为J40S兰精莫代尔/棉50/50混纺纱和杭州旭化成氨纶有限公司生产的30D聚氨酯纤维纱线。
这样编织得到面料毛坯为外层、中间层、里层三层结构，其中外层由第一纱线和第四纱线编织构成，中间层由第二纱线的和第四纱线编织构成，里层由第二纱线、第三纱线和第四纱线编织构成。附图1显示，第一、四路的下针1号针成圈编织的部分和第二、五路的下针1号针单面编织部分一起形成织物的里层，第一、四路下针成圈的线圈指数为0，再加上聚氨酯纤维长丝的弹力收缩作用和上针集圈的分纱作用两个作用力的作用，使得一、四路形成的下针里层线圈相对较小，第二、五路的下针单面编织的线圈指数为1，又没有上述两个作用力的作用，因而形成的下针里层线圈相对较大，在第三、六路两路上针 单面编织的聚氨酯纤维纱线的弹力收缩作用下显得更加突出，更利于后道染整工序的抓毛，里层为面料的吸湿快干层；第一、四双面编织时的上针集圈部分形成织物的中间层，中间层为面料的芯吸双向导湿层；第三、六路上针单面编织的部分形成织物的外层，外层为面料的吸湿储湿放湿层；
3)将所得面料毛坯沿剖幅线剖幅并同时全检入库；
4)将检验合格的面料毛坯由卷装退卷装入布车，根据染缸的容量配好缸，编好缸号和填写流程单，然后用缝纫机接疋成定型机作业所必须的连续状；
5)将整车接好疋的面料毛坯预定型，预定型温度195℃，车速20m/min，超喂布料量为35％；
6)根据配缸的面料毛坯重量和1∶12的浴比给染缸进水至浴比所要求的水位，预定型好的毛坯根据染缸每管的容量依次进缸缝头，将布头布尾缝合成可以连续染缸运行的绳环状；
7)对进缸后的面料毛坯进行染整前处理得到面料半成品，即将面料毛坯浸入装有氧漂和去油处理剂的染缸进行氧漂和去油染整前处理，氧漂和去油处理剂中武汉成光化工有限公司生产的双氧水含量为4g/L、上海雅运精细化工有限公司生产的雅适滑NF防皱剂含量为1g/L、上海信泽化工生产的精炼剂0.5g/L、新疆天业化工有限公司生产的片碱NAOH含量1g/L、广东德美化工有限公司生产的除油剂DM-1140含量为1g/L，染整前处理的水温为98℃，保温时间为40min，升降温速度控制在0.5～1℃/min，处理完毕再用浙江传化化工有限公司生产的去氧酶含量为0.2g/L、江苏索普化工有限公司生产的醋酸含量为1g/L去氧和中和布面上残留的碱；
8)采用染色液对前处理好的面料半成品进行高温染十字截面的改性聚酯纤维纱线COOLDRY75D/72F，选用浙江润土化工有限公司提供的分散染料和染料助剂溶于水形成的染液进行染色，分散染料的组分为：重量为待染面料毛坯重量0.02％的分散红3B，重量为待染面料毛坯重量0.6％分散黄SE-RGFL、重量为待染面料毛坯重量0.01％的分散蓝2BLN三者混合而成；所选用的染料助剂包括螯合分散剂、防皱剂、高温匀染剂和醋酸，染液中，螯合分散剂为上海雅运精细化工有限公司生产的雅洁瑞ARSK含量为1g/L、防皱剂为上海雅运精细化工有限公司生产的雅适滑NF含量为1g/L，高温匀染剂为广东德美化工有限公司生产的高温匀染剂DM-2108含量为0.5g/L，醋酸为江苏索普化工有限公司生产的醋酸含量为0.5g/L。染色时，染液的温度控制为130℃，保温时间为30min，染色时，升降温的速度控制在0.5℃/min；
9)采用还原清洗液对高温染好改性聚酯纤维纱线的面料半成品进行还原清洗，所用的还原清洗液为上海雅运精细化工有限公司生产的雅适滑NF防皱剂、广州中成化工有限公司生产的连二亚硫酸钠和湖北应城双环化工有限公司 生产的纯碱的水溶液，其中防皱剂含量为1g/L、连二亚硫酸钠含量为0.8g/L、纯碱含量为1g/L，还原清洗时温度控制为90℃、保温时间控制为20min；
10)将还原清洗液的水溶液放掉然后进水至浴比所要求的水位进行热洗，升温热洗，温度控制为90℃、保温时间控制为10min；热洗后水放掉再进冷水至浴比所要求的水位，让面料在缸内运行冷洗10min，为后续工序做好准备；
11)将面料半成品中的其他纤维进行再次染色，选用活性染料和染化助剂溶于水形成的染液对以上所形成的面料半成品中的J40S兰精莫代尔/棉50/50混纺纱和20S全棉高配普梳纱两种纱线进行染色。活性染料为上海染料八厂生产的一组活性染料，活性染料的组分为：重量为待染面料毛坯重量0.048％的活性艳红M-3BE，重量为待染面料毛坯重量0.94％的活性黄M-3RE、重量为待染面料毛坯重量0.02％的活性黑KN-B三者混合而成；所选用的染料助剂包括螯合分散剂、防皱剂，染液中，螯合分散剂为上海雅运精细化工有限公司生产的雅洁瑞ARSK，含量为1g/L、防皱剂为上海雅运精细化工有限公司生产的雅适滑NF，含量为1g/L。将上述活性染料及助剂溶于水并用染料搅拌机在常温下搅拌均匀后倒入染料附缸，然后再加水搅拌进一步稀释均匀，常温状态下分次通过染料附缸打入缸体，染料及其助剂加料时间控制在20min之内完成，与此同时让布在染液中常温下运行20min。面料带染液均匀后开始分次在染液常温加入促染助剂元明粉，元明粉为湖北应城双环化工有限公司生产，含量为：35g/L，元明粉直接加入附缸，加水稀释常温下搅拌均匀后分次均匀打入缸体，加料时间控制在30min之内完成。最后在常温时加入固色剂纯碱，纯碱为湖北应城双环化工有限公司生产含量为10g/L，分两次加入，每次加料时间控制在20min，直接加入染料附缸加水稀释搅拌均匀后慢慢打入缸体，所有加料完毕后开始慢慢升温，速度控制在0.5～1℃/min，加温至60℃时开始保温，保温40min后剪办对色追色，直至颜色达到所确认的颜色小样为止；
12)对再次染色的面料半成品进行冷洗和酸洗，慢慢给缸体加入冷水降温，降温的同时放水，降温速度控制在0.7℃/min，降至水温40℃时，停止加入冷水直接放水。放水结束后再按浴比所要求的水位进一缸水常温下酸洗，主要目的是中和布面上残留的碱，酸洗的酸剂为江苏索普化工有限公司生产的醋酸，含量为2g/L；
13)接着对面料半成品进行皂洗和再次冷洗，其中皂洗时，将常温酸洗的水排放后再按浴比水位进一缸水，通过染料附缸加入皂洗剂，皂洗剂为净洗剂和螯合分散剂两种助剂的混合，其中净洗剂为江苏省海安石油化工厂技术开发有限公司的净洗剂AR-812，含量为2g/L，螯合分散剂为上海雅运精细化工有限公司生产的雅洁瑞ARSK，含量为1g/L。加料的同时慢慢升温，升温速率控制在1℃/min，加温至98℃后保温10min，然后慢慢加冷水降温，降温速率控 制在1℃/min，水温降至40℃时放水干净后再进一缸水冷洗，冷洗完毕后再按浴比所要求的水进一缸水；
14)然后对洗净的面料半成品上亲水性柔软剂和亲水性软油精。洗净后的面料半成品不出缸，直接加入含量为0.5g/L的醋酸，常温下循环浸泡15min。再加入亲水柔软剂和亲水性软油精，常温下循环浸泡20min。所述亲水柔软剂为苏州市统业化工有限公司生产的涤宝舒DPS，亲水柔软剂的用量为待染面料毛坯重量的1％，所述亲水性软油精为广州市广健精细化工有限公司生产的亲水性软油精SJ12，亲水性软油精的用量为待染面料毛坯重量的4％；
15)对上好了亲水性柔软剂和亲水性软油精的面料半成品进行烘干，对烘干好的面料半成品上拉毛机拉毛，拉毛遵循的原则是刚开始第一遍拉毛时轻拉，然后逐遍加深，拉毛次数4～6遍为宜，选用4～6个拉毛机联机连续拉毛作业，拉毛效果要求较长而且均匀细腻手感好；
16)对拉毛好了的面料半成品进行复定型，复定型温度150℃，车速20m/min，超喂布料量为50％，获得吸湿发热快干保湿保暖面料光坯；
17)将所得面料光坯全检成卷入库；
对实施例1所得面料送国家针织产品质量监督检验中心按标准GB/T11048-1989(A法)检测面料的保温率，按标准FZ/T 73036-2010检测面料的吸湿发热升温值，按标准GB/T 21655.1-2008检测面料的吸湿性和速干性。结果显示如下：
①保温率39.08％，达到国家标准的≥30％的要求。
②吸湿发热最高升温值6.4℃，超过国家纺织行业标准的≥4.0℃的要求。
③吸湿发热平均升温值3.3℃，达到国家纺织行业标准的≥3.0℃的要求。
④吸水率426％，达到国家标准的≥200％的要求。
⑤滴水扩散时间1.3秒，达到国家标准≤3秒的要求。
⑥芯吸高度160mm，达到国家标准≥100mm的要求。
实施例2
一种吸湿发热快干保湿保暖面料，由四种纱线交织而成，第一纱线为一种再生纤维素短纤纱J45S100％兰精莫代尔，第二纱线为上海兴诺康纶纤维科技股份有限公司提供的导入了纳米银离子的十字截面的改性聚酯纱线75D/72F的康纶纤维低弹丝，第三纱线为20S全棉高配普梳纱，第四纱线为韩国株式会社晓星氨纶(嘉兴)有限公司生产20D和40D聚氨酯纤维纱线。
该吸湿发热快干保湿保暖面料的制备方法，依次包括以下步骤：
1)根据所设计的面料选择上述四种纱线原料，并根据机型的实际情况准备好上机时以上四种原料所必须的原料管头数；
2)将原料上机织造，织造时为后道工序的开幅定型预留好剖幅线，得到 面料毛坯；上机织造时按附图4所示的编织工艺图进行编织，织针的排列按附图5所示方式排列，织针的三角排列按附图6所示方式排列。附图4、附图6中的①②③④⑤⑥⑦⑧⑨⑩为进纱路数编号；附图4显示为共十路编织，附图5上、下排中的1、2是根据织针针锺高低的不同对织针编号成1号针、2号针，位于上排的是上针盘织针的排列方式，位于下排的是下针筒织针排列方式；附图6中位于上排表格中的是上针盘织针的三角排列方式，位于下排表格中的是下针筒织针的三角排列方式，图中“∧”、“∨”为成圈三角，“凵”为集圈三角，“-”为浮线三角。
上机织造按附图4～6所示方式进行，共十路编织完成一个完全组织，第一路为下针1号针出半针的单面编织，第二路为下针2号针出半针成圈和上针1号针出半针集圈的双面编织，第三路为下针1号针出半针成圈和上针1号针出半针集圈的双面编织，第四、五路为上针出满针的单面编织，第六路重复第一路的编织，第七路为下针2针出半针成圈和上针2号针出半针集圈的双面编织，第八路为下针1号针出半针成圈和上针2号针出半针集圈的双面编织，第九、十路重复第四、五路的单面编织。其中，第一、六路使用的纱线为20S全棉高配普梳纱，第二、三、七、八路使用的纱线为上海兴诺康纶纤维科技股份有限公司提供的75D/72F的康纶纤维低弹丝和韩国株式会社晓星氨纶(嘉兴)有限公司生产的20D的聚氨酯纤维纱线的包覆丝，第四、五、九、十路使用的纱线为J45S100％兰精莫代尔和韩国株式会社晓星氨纶(嘉兴)有限公司生产的40D聚氨酯纤维纱线。
这样编织得到面料毛坯为外层、中间层、里层三层结构，其中外层由第一纱线和第四纱线编织构成，中间层由第二纱线的和第四纱线编织构成，里层由第二纱线、第三纱线和第四纱线编织构成。附图4显示，第一、六路的下针单面编织和第三、八路的下针成圈编织部分形成织物的里层，里层为面料的吸湿快干层；第二、七路的下针成圈部分理论上是形成织物的里层，但因线圈指数为4，线圈内含聚氨酯纤维，又因二、七两路所使用的纱线和一、六两路所使用的20S纱线细得很多而被拉长抽得很紧藏在织物的中间，基于以上三个方面原因，第二、七路下针出半针成圈和上针出半针集圈的双面编织和第三、八路上针出半针集圈编织部分一起形成织物的中间层，中间层为面料的芯吸双向导湿抗菌层；第四、五、九、十路上针出满针单面编织的部分形成织物的外层，外层为面料的吸湿储湿放湿层；
3)将所得面料毛坯沿剖幅线剖幅并同时全检入库；
4)将检验合格的面料毛坯由卷装退卷装入布车，根据染缸的容量配好缸，编好缸号和填写流程单，然后用缝纫机接疋成定型机作业所必须的连续状；
5)将整车接好疋的面料毛坯预定型，预定型温度200℃，车速18m/min，超 喂布料量为40％；
6)根据配缸的面料毛坯重量和1∶10的浴比给染缸进水至浴比所要求的水位，预定型好的毛坯根据染缸每管的容量依次进缸缝头，将布头布尾缝合成可以连续染缸运行的绳环状；
7)对进缸后的面料毛坯进行染整前处理得到面料半成品，即将面料毛坯浸入装有处理剂的染缸进行染整前处理，处理剂中广东德美化工有限公司生产的除油剂DM-1140含量为1g/L、上海雅运精细化工有限公司生产的雅适滑NF防皱剂含量为1g/L、上海信泽化工生产的精炼剂0.5g/L、湖北应城双环化工生产的纯碱含量3g/L的处理剂的染缸进行染整前处理，染整前处理的水温为98℃，保温时间为20min，处理完毕再用江苏索普化工有限公司生产的醋酸含量为0.5g/L，水温30℃，保温时间20min，中和布面上残留的碱；
8)采用染色液对前处理好的面料毛坯进行高温染导入了纳米银离子的十字截面的改性聚酯纱线75D/72F的康纶纤维低弹丝，选用浙江润土化工有限公司提供的分散染料和染料助剂溶于水形成的染液进行染色，分散染料的组分为：重量为待染面料毛坯重量0.8％的分散红3B，重量为待染面料毛坯重量0.06％分散黄SE-RGFL、重量为待染面料毛坯重量0.017％的分散蓝2BLN三者混合而成；所选用的染料助剂包括螯合分散剂、防皱剂、高温匀染剂和醋酸，染液中，螯合分散剂为上海雅运精细化工有限公司生产的雅洁瑞ARSK含量为1g/L、防皱剂为上海雅运精细化工有限公司生产的雅适滑NF含量为1g/L，高温匀染剂为广东德美化工有限公司生产的高温匀染剂DM-2108含量为0.5g/L，醋酸为江苏索普化工有限公司生产的醋酸含量为0.5g/L。染色时，染液的温度控制为120℃，保温时间为35min。染色时，升降温的速度以控制在0.8℃/min；
9)采用还原清洗液对高温染好改性聚酯纤维纱线的面料半成品进行还原清洗，所用的还原清洗液为上海雅运精细化工有限公司生产的雅适滑NF防皱剂、广州中成化工有限公司生产的连二亚硫酸钠和湖北应城双环化工有限公司生产的纯碱的水溶液，其中防皱剂含量为2g/L、连二亚硫酸钠含量为1g/L、纯碱含量为1.5g/L，还原清洗时温度控制为98℃、保温时间控制为20min；
10)将还原清洗液的水溶液放掉然后进水至浴比所要求的水位进行热洗，升温热洗温度控制为98℃、保温时间控制为15min，升降温速度控制在1℃/min，热洗后水放掉再进冷水至浴比所要求的水位，让面料在缸内运行冷洗10min，为后续工序做好准备；
11)将面料半成品中的其他纤维进行再次染色，选用活性染料和染化助剂溶于水形成的染液对以上所形成的面料半成品中的J45S100％兰精莫代尔、20S全棉高配普梳纱两种纱线进行染色。活性染料为上海染料八厂生产的一组活性染料，活性染料的组分为：重量为待染面料毛坯重量0.8％的活性艳红M-3BE， 重量为待染面料毛坯重量0.4％的活性黄M-3RE、重量为待染面料毛坯重量0.02％的活性黑KN-B三者混合而成；所选用的染料助剂包括螯合分散剂、防皱剂，染液中，螯合分散剂为上海雅运精细化工有限公司生产的雅洁瑞ARSK，含量为1g/L、防皱剂为上海雅运精细化工有限公司生产的雅适滑NF，含量为1g/L。将上述活性染料及助剂溶于水并用染料搅拌机在常温下搅拌均匀后倒入染料附缸，然后再加水搅拌进一步稀释均匀，常温状态下分次通过染料附缸打入缸体，染料及其助剂加料时间控制在20min之内完成，与此同时让布在染液中常温下运行20min。面料带染液均匀后开始分次在染液常温加入促染助剂元明粉，元明粉为湖北应城双环化工有限公司生产，用量为50g/L，元明粉直接加入附缸，加水稀释常温下搅拌均匀后分次均匀打入缸体，加料时间控制在30min之内完成。最后在常温时加入固色剂纯碱，纯碱为湖北应城双环化工有限公司生产，用量为15g/L，分两次加入，每次加料时间控制在20min，直接加入染料附缸加水稀释搅拌均匀后慢慢打入缸体，所有加料完毕后开始慢慢升温，速度控制在0.5～1℃/min，加温至60℃时开始保温，保温40min后剪办对色追色，直至颜色达到所确认的颜色小样为止；
12)对再次染色的面料半成品进行冷洗和酸洗，慢慢给缸体加入冷水降温，降温的同时放水，降温速度控制在0.5～1℃/min，降至水温40℃时，停止加入冷水直接放水。放水结束后再按浴比所要求的水位进一缸水常温下酸洗，主要目的是中和布面上残留的碱，酸洗的酸剂为江苏索普化工有限公司生产的醋酸，含量为3g/L；
13)接着对面料半成品进行皂洗和再次冷洗，其中皂洗时，将常温酸洗的水排放后再按浴比水位进一缸水，通过染料附缸加入皂洗剂，皂洗剂为净洗剂和螯合分散剂两种助剂的混合，其中净洗剂为江苏省海安石油化工厂技术开发有限公司的净洗剂AR-812，含量为：3g/L，螯合分散剂为上海雅运精细化工有限公司生产的雅洁瑞ARSK，含量为1g/L。加料的同时慢慢升温，升温速率控制在1℃/min，加温至98℃后保温10min，然后慢慢加冷水降温，降温速率控制在1℃/min，水温降至40℃时放水干净后再进一缸水冷洗，冷洗完毕后再按浴比所要求的水进一缸水；
14)然后对洗净的面料半成品上亲水性柔软剂和亲水性软油精。净洗后的面料半成品不出缸，直接加入含量为1g/L的醋酸溶液，常温循环浸泡20min，再加入亲水柔软剂和亲水性软油精循环浸泡，常温循环浸泡30min。亲水柔软剂为张家港市德宝化工有限公司生产的超蓬松超耐久亲水柔软剂DP-9992，亲水柔软剂用量为待染面料毛坯重量的2％，亲水性软油精为惠州市华威兴化工有限公司生产亲水性软油精RS，亲水性软油精的用量为待染面料毛坯重量的5％；
15)对上好了亲水性柔软剂和亲水性软油精的面料半成品进行烘干，对烘干好的面料半成品上拉毛机拉毛，拉毛遵循的原则是刚开始第一遍时轻拉，然后逐遍加深，拉毛次数4～6遍为宜，选用4～6个拉毛机联机连续拉毛，拉毛效果要求较长而且均匀细腻手感好；
16)对拉毛好了的面料半成品进行复定型，复定型温度160℃，车速20m/min，超喂布料量为40％，获得吸湿发热快干保湿保暖面料光坯；
17)将所得面料光坯全检成卷入库。
所得面料送国家针织产品质量监督检验中心按实施例1相同标准对各项性能进行检测，结果显示如下：
①保温率为32.35％，达到国家标准的≥30％的要求。
②吸湿发热最高升温值为7.6℃，远超过国家纺织行业标准的≥4.0℃的要求。
③吸湿发热平均升温值为4.6℃，达到国家纺织行业标准的≥3.0℃的要求。
④吸水率为321％，达到国家标准的≥200％的要求。
⑤滴水扩散时间2.6秒，达到国家标准≤3秒的要求。
⑥芯吸高度126mm，达到国家标准≥100mm的要求。
实施例3
一种吸湿发热快干保湿保暖面料，由四种纱线编织而成，第一纱线为羊毛、亚麻与再生纤维素纤维混纺的再生纤维素纤维型混纺纱线J40S80S羊毛30/漂白脱胶亚麻20/超细兰精莫代尔50紧密纺混纺纱，其中再生纤维素纤维按重量百分比占50％，第二纱线为上海兴诺康纶纤维科技股份有限公司提供的导入了纳米银离子的十字截面的改性聚酯纱线75D/72F的康纶纤维低弹丝，第三纱线为聚丙烯腈纤维和棉纤维混纺的棉纤维型混纺纱线J40S牛奶蛋白纤维30/精梳棉70赛络紧密纺混纺纱，其中棉纤维按重量百分比占70％，第四纱线为英威达纤维(上海)有限公司生产30D和40D聚氨酯纤维纱线。
该吸湿发热快干保湿保暖面料的制备方法，依次包括以下步骤：
1)根据所设计的面料选择上述四种纱线原料，并根据机型的实际情况准备好上机时以上四种原料所必须的原料管头数；
2)将原料上机织造，织造时为后道工序的开幅定型预留好剖幅线，得到面料毛坯；上机织造时按附图7所示的编织工艺图进行编织，织针的排列按附图8所示方式排列，织针的三角排列按附图9所示方式排列。附图7、附图9中的①②③④⑤⑥⑦⑧⑨⑩
Figure PCTCN2015070619-appb-000001
为进纱路数编号；附图7显示为共十二路编织，附图8上、下排中的1、2是根据织针针锺高低的不同对织针编号成1号针、2号针，位于上排的是上针盘织针的排列方式，位于下排的是下针筒织针排列方式；附图9中位于上排表格中的是上针盘织针的三角排列方式，位于下排表格中的是 下针筒织针的三角排列方式，图中“∧”、“∨”为成圈三角，“∏”为集圈三角，“-”为浮线三角。
上机织造按附图7～9所示方式进行，共十二路编织完成一个完全组织，第一路为上针1号针出半针的单面编织，第二路为下针出满针的单面编织，第三路为上针2号针出半针成圈和下针1号针出半针集圈的双面编织，第四路为上针2号针出半针的单面编织，第五路为下针出满针的单面编织，第六路为上针1号针出半针成圈和下针2号针出半针集圈的双面编织，第七、八路重复第一、二路的编织，第九路为上针2号针出半针成圈和下针2号针出半针集圈的双面编织，第十、十一路重复第四、五路的编织，第十二路为上针1号针出半针成圈和下针1号针出半针集圈的双面编织。其中，第一、四、七、十路使用的纱线为J40S牛奶蛋白纤维30/精梳棉70赛络紧密纺混纺纱双纱进线，第二、五、八、十一路使用的纱线为J40S80S羊毛30/漂白脱胶亚麻20/超细兰精莫代尔50紧密纺混纺纱和英威达纤维(上海)有限公司生产40D聚氨酯纤维纱线，第三、六、九、十二路使用的纱线为上海兴诺康纶纤维科技股份有限公司提供的75D/72F的康纶纤维低弹丝和英威达纤维(上海)有限公司生产30D聚氨酯纤维纱线的包覆丝。
这样编织得到面料毛坯为外层、中间层、里层三层结构，其中外层由第一纱线和第四纱线编织构成，中间层由第二纱线的和第四纱线编织构成，里层由第二纱线、第三纱线和第四纱线编织构成。附图7显示，第一、四、七、十路的上针单面编织和第三、六、九、十二路的上针成圈编织部分形成织物的里层，第三、六、九、十二路上针成圈的线圈指数为0，再加上聚氨酯纤维纱线的弹力收缩作用和下针集圈的分纱作用两个作用力的作用，使得三、六、九、十二路形成的上针里层线圈相对较小，第一、四、七、十路的上针单面编织的线圈指数为4，又没有上述两个作用力的作用，因而形成的上针里层线圈相对较大，在第二、五、八、十一路四路下针单面编织的聚氨酯纤维纱线的弹力收缩作用下显得更加突出，更利于后道染整工序的抓毛起绒，里层为面料的吸湿快干层；第三、六、九、十二路的下针集圈编织部分形成织物的中间层，中间层为面料的芯吸双向导湿抗菌层；第二、五、八、十一路下针单面编织的部分形成织物的外层，外层为面料的吸湿储湿放湿层；
3)将所得面料毛坯沿剖幅线剖幅并同时全检入库；
4)将检验合格的面料毛坯由卷装退卷装入布车，根据染缸的容量配好缸，编好缸号和填写流程单，然后用缝纫机接疋成定型机作业所必须的连续状；
5)将整车接好疋的面料毛坯预定型，预定型温度180℃，车速15m/min，超喂布料量为35％；
6)根据配缸的重量和1∶15的浴比给染缸进水至浴比所要求的水位，预 定型好的毛坯根据染缸每管的容量依次进缸缝头，将布头布尾缝合成可以连续染缸运行的绳环状；
7)对进缸后的面料毛坯进行染整前处理得到面料半成品，即本实施例面料毛坯的前处理分三步进行。首先将面料毛坯浸入装有羊毛处理剂的染缸进行羊毛成分的染整前处理，羊毛处理剂中为科莱恩纺织染料助剂中国有限公司生产的除油剂PCF含量为0.5g/L、武汉新华扬生物股份有限公司生产的练染一浴酶含量为3g/L，染整前处理的水温为60℃，保温时间为40min；其次是对面料毛坯中亚麻、棉纤维和超细兰精莫代尔进行前处理，前处理剂为湖北应城双环化工生产的纯碱含量为1G/L(主要是为调节染液的PH值＝8.0，PH值太低会影响亚麻、棉纤维的前处理效果，太高因羊毛不耐碱会降低羊毛的有效含量。)，武汉成光化工有限公司生产的双氧水含量为8G/L，广东德美化工有限公司生产的精炼剂DM-1361含量为0.2G/L，广东德美化工有限公司生产的除油剂DM-1133含量为0.8G/L，科莱恩纺织染料助剂中国有限公司生产防皱剂C-2G含量为2G/L，染整前处理的水温为80℃，保温时间为40min；最后再用0.5g/L的醋酸常温下中和残留的碱，时间为20min；
8)采用染色液对染整前处理好的面料半成品进行高温染上海兴诺康纶纤维科技股份有限公司提供的75D/72F的康纶纤维低弹丝。选用日本化药株式会社提供的分散染料和染料助剂溶于水形成的染液进行染色，分散染料的组分为：重量为待染面料毛坯重量0.015％的分散红AQ-LE，重量为待染面料毛坯重量0.025％分散兰AQ-LE，重量为待染面料毛坯重量0.013％的分散黄AQ-LE三者混合而成；所选用的染料助剂包括螯合分散剂、防皱剂、高温匀染剂和醋酸，染液中，螯合分散剂为上海雅运精细化工有限公司生产的雅洁瑞ARSK，含量为1g/L、防皱剂为上海雅运精细化工有限公司生产的雅适滑NF，含量为1g/L，高温匀染剂为广东德美化工有限公司生产的高温匀染剂DM-2108，含量为0.5g/L，醋酸为江苏索普化工有限公司生产的醋酸，含量为0.5g/L。染色时，染液的温度控制为110℃，保温时间为25min。染色时，升降温的速度以控制在0.5℃/min；
9)采用还原清洗液对高温染好改性聚酯纤维纱线的面料半成品进行还原清洗，所用的还原清洗液为上海雅运精细化工有限公司生产的雅适滑NF防皱剂、广州中成化工有限公司生产的连二亚硫酸钠和湖北应城双环化工有限公司生产的纯碱的水溶液，其中防皱剂含量为1g/L、连二亚硫酸钠含量为0.5g/L、纯碱含量为0.5g/L，还原清洗时温度控制为85℃、保温时间控制为15min；
10)将还原清洗液的水溶液放掉然后进水至浴比所要求的水位进行热洗，升温热洗温度控制为95℃、保温时间控制为10min，升降温速度控制在0.8℃/min，热洗后水放掉再进冷水至浴比所要求的水位，让面料在缸内运行冷 洗15min，为后续工序做好准备；
11)将面料半成品中的其他纤维进行再次染色，选用活性染料和染化助剂溶于水形成的染液对以上所形成的面料半成品中的J40S80S羊毛30/漂白脱胶亚麻20/超细兰精莫代尔50紧密纺混纺纱、J40S牛奶蛋白纤维30/精梳棉70赛络紧密纺混纺纱两种纱线进行染色。活性染料为日本化药株式会社生产的一组活性染料，活性染料的组分为：重量为待染面料毛坯重量0.024％的活性兰CN-MG，重量为待染面料毛坯重量0.0134％的活性红CN-3B，重量为待染面料毛坯重量0.028％的活性黄CN-EX三者混合而成；所选用的染料助剂包括螯合分散剂、防皱剂，染液中，螯合分散剂为上海雅运精细化工有限公司生产的雅洁瑞ARSK，含量为1g/L、防皱剂为上海雅运精细化工有限公司生产的雅适滑NF，含量为1g/L。将上述活性染料及助剂溶于水并用染料搅拌机在常温下搅拌均匀后倒入染料附缸，然后再加水搅拌进一步稀释均匀，常温状态下分次通过染料附缸打入缸体，染料及其助剂加料时间控制在20min之内完成，与此同时让布在染液中常温下运行20min。面料带染液均匀后开始分次在染液常温加入促染助剂元明粉，元明粉为湖北应城双环化工有限公司生产，用量为8g/L，元明粉直接加入附缸，加水稀释常温下搅拌均匀后分次均匀打入缸体，加料时间控制在20min之内完成。最后在常温时加入固色剂纯碱，纯碱为湖北应城双环化工有限公司生产，用量为1g/L，分两次加入，每次加料时间控制在10min，直接加入染料附缸加水稀释搅拌均匀后慢慢打入缸体。所有加料完毕后开始慢慢升温，速度控制在0.5～1℃/min，加温至110℃时开始保温，保温30min后剪办对色追色，直至颜色达到所确认的颜色小样为止；
12)对再次染色的面料半成品进行冷洗和酸洗，慢慢给缸体加入冷水降温，降温的同时放水，降温速度控制在0.5～1℃/min，降至水温40℃时，停止加入冷水直接放水。放水结束后再按浴比所要求的水位进一缸水常温下酸洗，主要目的是中和布面上残留的碱，酸洗的酸剂为江苏索普化工有限公司生产的醋酸，含量为0.5g/L，
13)接着对面料半成品进行皂洗和再次冷洗，其中皂洗时，将常温酸洗的水排放后再按浴比水位进一缸水，通过染料附缸加入皂洗剂，皂洗剂为净洗剂和螯合分散剂两种助剂的混合，其中净洗剂为江苏省海安石油化工厂技术开发有限公司的净洗剂AR-812，含量为1g/L，螯合分散剂为上海雅运精细化工有限公司生产的雅洁瑞ARSK，含量为1g/L。加料的同时慢慢升温，升温速率控制在1℃/min，加温至85℃后保温10min，然后慢慢加冷水降温，降温速率控制在1℃/min，水温降至40℃时放水干净后再进一缸水冷洗，冷洗完毕后再按浴比所要求的水进一缸水；
14)然后对洗净的面料半成品上亲水性柔软剂和亲水性软油精。洗净后的 面料半成品不出缸，直接加入含量为0.8g/L的醋酸，常温下循环浸泡20min。再加入亲水柔软剂和亲水性软油精，常温下循环浸泡20min。所述亲水柔软剂为苏州市统业化工有限公司生产的涤宝舒DPS，亲水柔软剂的用量为待染面料毛坯重量的1％，所述亲水性软油精为惠州市华威兴化工有限公司生产亲水性软油精RS，亲水性软油精的用量为待染面料毛坯重量的5％；
15)对上好了亲水性柔软剂和亲水性软油精的面料半成品进行烘干，对烘干好的面料半成品上拉毛机拉毛，拉毛遵循的原则是刚开始第一遍时轻拉，然后逐遍加深，拉毛次数4～6遍为宜，选用4～6个拉毛机联机连续拉毛，拉毛效果要求较长而且均匀细腻手感好；
16)对拉毛好了的面料半成品进行复定型，复定型温度160℃，车速20m/min，超喂布料量为50％，获得吸湿发热快干保湿保暖面料光坯；
17)将所得面料光坯全检成卷入库。
所得面料送国家针织产品质量监督检验中心按实施例1相同标准对各项性能进行检测，结果显示如下：
①保温率42.08％，达到国家标准的≥30％的要求。
②吸湿发热最高升温值7.1℃，超过国家纺织行业标准的≥4.0℃的要求。
③吸湿发热平均升温值3.9℃，达到国家纺织行业标准的≥3.0℃的要求。
④吸水率319％，达到国家标准的≥200％的要求。
⑤滴水扩散时间0.7秒，达到国家标准≤3秒的要求。
⑥芯吸高度145mm，达到国家标准≥100mm的要求。
实施例4
一种吸湿发热快干保湿保暖面料，由四种纱线编织而成，第一种纱线为棉纤维和再生纤维素纤维混纺的再生纤维素纤维型混纺纱线J32S棉纤维/麻赛尔纤维30/70混纺纱，其中再生纤维素纤维的重量百分比占70％；第二种纱线为上海海天盈捷纺织科技有限公司生产的十字截面的改性聚酯纤维纱线J40SCOOLDRY短纤纱；第三种纱线为聚酯短纤和棉纤维混纺的棉纤维型混纺纱J32S60/40棉/COOLDRY混纺纱，其中棉纤维的重量百分比占60％；第四种纱线为杭州旭化成氨纶有限公司生产的30D聚氨酯纤维纱线。
该吸湿发热快干保湿保暖面料的制备方法，依次包括以下步骤：
1)根据所设计的面料选择上述四种纱线原料，并根据机型的实际情况准备好上机时以上四种原料所必须的原料管头数；
2)将原料上机织造，织造时为后道工序的开幅定型预留好剖幅线，得到面料毛坯；上机织造时按附图10所示的编织工艺图进行编织，织针的排列按附图11所示方式排列，织针的三角排列按附图12所示方式排列。附图10、附图12中的①②③④⑤⑥为进纱路数编号；附图10显示为共六路编织，附图11 上、下排中的1、2是根据织针针锺高低的不同对织针编号成1号针、2号针，位于上排的是上针盘织针的排列方式，位于下排的是下针筒织针排列方式；附图12中位于上排表格中的是上针盘织针的三角排列方式，位于下排表格中的是下针筒织针的三角排列方式，图中“∧”、“∨”为成圈三角，“∏”为集圈三角，“-”为浮线三角。
上机织造按附图10～12所示方式进行，共六路编织完成一个完全组织，第一路为上针1号针出半针的单面编织，第二路为下针出满针的单面编织，第三路为上针2号针出半针成圈和下针1号针出半针集圈的双面编织，第四路为上针2号针出半针的单面编织，第五路为下针出满针的单面编织，第六路为上针1号针出半针成圈和下针2号针出半针集圈的双面编织。其中，第一、四路为J32S40/60COOLDRY/棉混纺纱双纱进线编织，第二、五路使用的纱线为J32S棉纤维/麻赛尔纤维30/70混纺纱和30D聚氨酯纤维纱线，第三、六路使用的纱线为J40SCOOLDRY短纤纱和30D聚氨酯纤维纱线。
这样编织得到面料毛坯为外层、中间层、里层三层结构，其中外层由第一纱线和第四纱线编织构成，中间层由第二纱线的和第四纱线编织构成，里层由第二纱线、第三纱线和第四纱线编织构成。附图10显示，第一、四路的上针单面编织和第三、六路的上针成圈编织部分形成织物的里层，第三、六路上针成圈的线圈指数为0，再加上聚氨酯纤维纱线的弹力收缩作用和下针集圈的分纱作用两个作用力的作用，使得三、六路形成的上针里层线圈相对较小，第一、四、路的上针单面编织的线圈指数为4，又没有上述两个作用力的作用，因而形成的上针里层线圈相对较大，在第二、五路两路下针单面编织的聚氨酯纤维纱线的弹力收缩作用下显得更加突出，更利于后道染整工序的抓毛起绒，里层为面料的吸湿快干层；第三、六路的下针集圈编织部分形成织物的中间层，中间层为面料的芯吸双向导湿层；第二、五路下针单面编织的部分形成织物的外层，外层为面料的吸湿储湿放湿层；
3)将所得面料毛坯沿剖幅线剖幅并同时全检入库；
4)将检验合格的面料毛坯由卷装退卷装入布车，根据染缸的容量配好缸，编好缸号和填写流程单，然后用缝纫机接疋成定型机作业所必须的连续状；
5)将整车接好疋的面料毛坯预定型，预定型温度190℃，车速15m/min，超喂布料量为25％；
6)根据配缸的重量和1∶8的浴比给染缸进水至浴比所要求的水位。预定型好的毛坯根据染缸每管的容量依次进缸缝头，将布头布尾缝合成可以连续染缸运行的绳环状；
7)对进缸后的面料毛坯进行染整前处理得到面料半成品，即将面料毛坯浸入装有氧漂处理剂的染缸进行氧漂染整前处理，氧漂处理剂中武汉成光化工 有限公司生产的双氧水，含量为3g/L、广东德美化工有限公司生产的浴中宝DXB-626防皱剂含量为1g/L、广东德美化工有限公司生产的精炼剂DM-1361含量为0.5g/L、新疆天业化工有限公司生产的片碱NAOH含量为1g/L的处理剂的染缸进行染整前处理，染整前处理的水温为98℃，保温时间为40min，升降温速度控制在0.5～1℃/min.处理完毕再用浙江传化化工有限公司生产的去氧酶，含量为0.1g/L，江苏索普化工有限公司生产的醋酸，含量为0.5g/L，去氧和中和布面上残留的碱；
8)采用染色液对前处理好的面料半成品进行高温染十字截面的改性聚酯纤维纱线J40SCOOLDRY短纤纱。选用浙江润土化工有限公司提供的分散染料和染料助剂溶于水形成的染液进行染色，分散染料的组分为：重量为待染面料毛坯重量0.024％的分散红S-5BL，重量为待染面料毛坯重量0.84％分散橙S-4RL、重量为待染面料毛坯重量0.264％的分散蓝S-3BG三者混合而成；所选用的染料助剂包括螯合分散剂、防皱剂、高温匀染剂和醋酸，染液中，螯合分散剂为上海雅运精细化工有限公司生产的雅洁瑞ARSK，含量为1g/L、防皱剂为上海雅运精细化工有限公司生产的雅适滑NF，含量为1g/L，高温匀染剂为广东德美化工有限公司生产的高温匀染剂DM-2108，含量为0.8g/L，醋酸为江苏索普化工有限公司生产的醋酸，含量为1g/L。染色时，染液的温度控制为120℃，保温时间为45min。染色时，升降温的速度控制在0.5℃/min；
9)采用还原清洗液对高温染好改性聚酯纤维纱线的面料半成品进行还原清洗，所用的还原清洗液为广东德美化工有限公司生产的浴中宝DXB-626防皱剂、广州中成化工有限公司生产的连二亚硫酸钠和湖北应城双环化工有限公司生产的纯碱的水溶液，其中防皱剂含量为1.5g/L、连二亚硫酸钠含量为1g/L、纯碱含量为2g/L，还原清洗时温度控制为100℃、保温时间控制为25min；
10)将还原清洗液的水溶液放掉然后进水至浴比所要求的水位进行热洗，升温热洗，温度控制为98℃、保温时间控制为20min；热洗后水放掉再进冷水至浴比所要求的水位，让面料在缸内运行冷洗10min，为后续工序做好准备。
11)将面料半成品中的其他纤维进行再次染色，选用活性染料和染化助剂溶于水形成的染液对以上所形成的面料半成中的J32S棉纤维/麻赛尔纤维30/70混纺纱和J32S40/60COOLDRY/棉混纺纱中的棉纤维进行染色。活性染料为上海染料八厂生产的一组活性染料，活性染料的组分为：重量为待染面料毛坯重量0.23％的活性艳红M-3BE，重量为待染面料毛坯重量1.08％的活性黄M-3RE、重量为待染面料毛坯重量0.37％的活性黑KN-B三者混合而成；所选用的染料助剂包括螯合分散剂、防皱剂，染液中，螯合分散剂为上海雅运精细化工有限公司生产的雅洁瑞ARSK，含量为1g/L、防皱剂为上海雅运精细化工有限公司生产的雅适滑NF，含量为1g/L。将上述活性染料及助剂溶于水并用染料搅拌 机在常温下搅拌均匀后倒入染料附缸，然后再加水搅拌进一步稀释均匀，常温状态下分次通过染料附缸打入缸体，染料及其助剂加料时间控制在20min之内完成，与此同时让布在染液中常温下运行20min。面料带染液均匀后开始分次在染液常温加入促染助剂元明粉，元明粉为湖北应城双环化工有限公司生产，含量为60g/L，元明粉直接加入附缸，加水稀释常温下搅拌均匀后分次均匀打入缸体，加料时间控制在30min之内完成。最后在常温时加入固色剂代用碱，代用碱为浙江传化化工有限公司生产，含量为3g/L，分两次加入，每次加料时间控制在20min，直接加入染料附缸加水稀释搅拌均匀后慢慢打入缸体，所有加料完毕后开始慢慢升温，速度控制在0.5～1℃/min，加温至60℃时开始保温，保温45min后剪办对色追色，直至颜色达到所确认的颜色小样为止。
12)对再次染色的面料半成品进行冷洗和酸洗，慢慢给缸体加入冷水降温，降温的同时放水，降温速度控制在0.5℃/min，降至水温40℃时，停止加入冷水直接放水。放水结束后再按浴比所要求的水位进一缸水常温下酸洗，主要目的是中和布面上残留的碱，酸洗的酸剂为江苏索普化工有限公司生产的醋酸，含量为3g/L；
13)接着对面料半成品进行皂洗和再次冷洗，其中皂洗时，将常温酸洗的水排放后再按浴比水位进一缸水，通过染料附缸加入皂洗剂，皂洗剂为净洗剂和螯合分散剂两种助剂的混合，其中净洗剂为南通展亿化工有限公司净洗剂209，含量为2g/L，螯合分散剂为上海雅运精细化工有限公司生产的雅洁瑞ARSK，含量为1g/L。加料的同时慢慢升温，升温速率控制在1℃/min，加温至98℃后保温10min，然后慢慢加冷水降温，降温速率控制在1℃/min，水温降至40℃时放水干净后再进一缸水冷洗，冷洗完毕后再按浴比所要求的水进一缸水；
14)然后对洗净的面料半成品上亲水性柔软剂和亲水性软油精。洗净后的面料半成品不出缸，直接加入含量为0.75g/L的醋酸，常温下循环浸泡15min。再加入亲水柔软剂和亲水性软油精，常温下循环浸泡25min。所述亲水柔软剂为苏州市统业化工有限公司生产的涤宝舒DPS，亲水柔软剂用量为待染面料毛坯重量的1％，所述亲水性软油精为广州市广健精细化工有限公司生产的亲水性软油精SJ12，亲水性软油精的用量为待染面料毛坯重量的4％；
15)对上好了亲水性柔软剂和亲水性软油精的面料半成品进行烘干；对烘干好的面料半成品上拉毛机拉毛，拉毛遵循的原则是刚开始第一遍拉毛时轻拉，然后逐遍加深，拉毛次数4～6遍为宜，选用4～6个拉毛机联机连续拉毛作业，拉毛效果要求较长而且均匀细腻手感好；
16)对拉毛好了的面料半成品进行复定型。复定型温度155℃，车速18m/min，超喂布料量为50％，获得吸湿发热快干保湿保暖面料光坯；
17)将所得面料光坯全检成卷入库。
所得面料送国家针织产品质量监督检验中心按实施例1相同标准对各项性能进行检测，结果显示如下：
①保温率35.28％，达到国家标准的≥30％的要求。
②吸湿发热最高升温值6.6℃，超过国家纺织行业标准的≥4.0℃的要求。
③吸湿发热平均升温值3.5℃，达到国家纺织行业标准的≥3.0℃的要求。
④吸水率376％，达到国家标准的≥200％的要求。
⑤滴水扩散时间0.9秒，达到国家标准≤3秒的要求。
⑥芯吸高度172mm，达到国家标准≥100mm的要求。
实施例5
一种吸湿发热快干保湿保暖面料，由四种纱线交织而成，第一种纱线为再生纤维素纤维长纤纱120D粘胶长丝；第二种纱线为上海海贵达科技有限公司生产的嫁接了亲水性基团的Y型截面的改性聚酯纤维纱线SUPERCOOL75D/72F聚酯纤维低弹丝；第三种纱线为聚酯纤维和棉纤维混纺的棉纤维型混纺纱J32S20/80SUPERCOOL/棉混纺纱，其中棉纤维的重量百分比占80％；第四种纱线为杭州旭化成氨纶有限公司生产的30D聚氨酯纤维纱线。
该吸湿发热快干保湿保暖面料的制备方法，依次包括以下步骤：
1)根据所设计的面料选择上述四种纱线原料，并根据机型的实际情况准备好上机时以上四种原料所必须的原料管头数；
2)将原料上机织造，织造时为后道工序的开幅定型预留好剖幅线，得到面料毛坯；上机织造时按附图13所示的编织工艺图进行编织，织针的排列按附图14所示方式排列，织针的三角排列按附图15所示方式排列。附图13、附图15中的①②③④⑤⑥⑦⑧⑨⑩为进纱路数编号；附图13显示为共十路编织，附图14上、下排中的1、2是根据织针针锺高低的不同对织针编号成1号针、2号针，位于上排的是上针盘织针的排列方式，位于下排的是下针筒织针排列方式；附图15中位于上排表格中的是上针盘织针的三角排列方式，位于下排表格中的是下针筒织针的三角排列方式，图中“∧”、“∨”为成圈三角，“∏”为集圈三角，“-”为浮线三角；
上机织造按附图13～15所示方式进行，共十路编织完成一个完全组织，第一路为上针1号针出半针的单面编织，第二路为上针2号针出半针成圈和下针1号针出半针集圈的双面编织，第三、四路为下针出满针的单面编织，第五路为上针1号针出半针成圈和下针2号针出半针集圈的双面编织，第六路为上针1号针出半针的单面编织，第七路为上针2号针出半针成圈和下针2号针出半针集圈的双面编织，第八、九路为下针出满针的单面编织，第十路为上针1号 针出半针成圈和下针1号针出半针集圈的双面编织。其中，第一、六路为J32S20/80SUPERCOOL/棉混纺纱双纱进线编织，第二、五、七、十路使用的纱线为SUPERCOOL75D/72F聚酯纤维低弹丝和30D聚氨酯纤维纱线，第三、四、八、九路使用的纱线为120D粘胶长丝和30D聚氨酯纤维纱线。
这样编织得到面料毛坯为外层、中间层、里层三层结构，其中外层由第一纱线和第四纱线编织构成，中间层由第二纱线的和第四纱线编织构成，里层由第二纱线、第三纱线和第四纱线编织构成。附图13显示，第一、六路的上针单面编织和第五、十路的上针成圈编织部分形成织物的里层，第一、六路的线圈指数为3，线圈相对较大，第五、十路的成圈线圈指数为0，形成的线圈相对较小，更有利于里层织物后续抓毛起绒，里层为面料的吸湿快干层；第二、七路的上针成圈部分理论上也是形成织物的里层，但因线圈指数为4，线圈内含聚氨酯纤维，又因二、七两路所使用的纱线和一、六两路所使用的纱线细得很多而被拉长抽得很紧藏在织物的中间，基于以上三个方面原因，第二、七路上针成圈、下针集圈的双面编织和第五、十路下针集圈编织部分一起形成织物的中间层，中间层为面料的芯吸双向导湿层；第三、四、八、九路下针单面编织的部分形成织物的外层，外层为面料的吸湿储湿放湿层；
3)将所得面料毛坯沿剖幅线剖幅并同时全检入库；
4)将检验合格的面料毛坯由卷装退卷装入布车，根据染缸的容量配好缸，编好缸号和填写流程单，然后用缝纫机接疋成定型机作业所必须的连续状；
5)将整车接好疋的面料毛坯预定型，预定型温度195℃，车速18m/min，超喂布料量为15％；
6)根据配缸的重量和1∶10的浴比给染缸进水至浴比所要求的水位，预定型好的毛坯根据染缸每管的容量依次进缸缝头，将布头布尾缝合成可以连续染缸运行的绳环状；
7)对进缸后的面料毛坯进行染整前处理得到面料半成品，即将面料毛坯浸入装有氧漂处理剂的染缸进行氧漂染整前处理，氧漂处理剂中武汉成光化工有限公司生产的双氧水，含量为3g/L、广东德美化工有限公司生产的浴中宝DXB-626防皱剂含量为1g/L、广东德美化工有限公司生产的精炼剂DM-1361含量为0.5g/L、新疆天业化工有限公司生产的片碱NAOH含量为0.75g/L的处理剂的染缸进行染整前处理，染整前处理的水温为98℃，保温时间为40min，升降温速度控制在0.5～1℃/min.处理完毕再用浙江传化化工有限公司生产的去氧酶，含量为0.1g/L，江苏索普化工有限公司生产的醋酸，含量为0.5g/L，去氧和中和布面上残留的碱；
8)采用染色液对前处理好的面料毛坯进行高温染Y型截面的改性聚酯纤维纱线SUPERCOOL75D/72F聚酯纤维低弹丝，选用浙江润土化工有限公司提 供的分散染料和染料助剂溶于水形成的染液进行染色，分散染料的组分为：重量为待染面料毛坯重量0.02％的分散红S-5BL，重量为待染面料毛坯重量0.7％分散橙S-4RL、重量为待染面料毛坯重量0.22％的分散蓝S-3BG三者混合而成；所选用的染料助剂包括螯合分散剂、防皱剂、高温匀染剂和醋酸，染液中，螯合分散剂为上海雅运精细化工有限公司生产的雅洁瑞ARSK，含量为1g/L、防皱剂为上海雅运精细化工有限公司生产的雅适滑NF，含量为1g/L，高温匀染剂为广东德美化工有限公司生产的高温匀染剂DM-2108，含量为0.5g/L，醋酸为江苏索普化工有限公司生产的醋酸，含量为1g/L。染色时，染液的温度控制为130℃，保温时间为35min。染色时，升降温的速度控制在0.5℃/min；
9)采用还原清洗液对高温染好改性聚酯纤维纱线的面料半成品进行还原清洗，所用的还原清洗液为广东德美化工有限公司生产的浴中宝DXB-626防皱剂、广州中成化工有限公司生产的连二亚硫酸钠和湖北应城双环化工有限公司生产的纯碱的水溶液，其中防皱剂含量为1g/L、连二亚硫酸钠含量为1g/L、纯碱含量为2g/L，还原清洗时温度控制为95℃、保温时间控制为20min；
10)将还原清洗液的水溶液放掉然后进水至浴比所要求的水位进行热洗，升温热洗，温度控制为98℃、保温时间控制为20min；热洗后水放掉再进冷水至浴比所要求的水位，让面料在缸内运行冷洗10min，为后续工序做好准备。
11)将面料半成品中的其他纤维进行再次染色，选用活性染料和染化助剂溶于水形成的染液对以上所形成的面料半成品中的120D粘胶长丝和J32S20/80SUPERCOOL/棉混纺纱中的棉纤维进行染色。活性染料为上海染料八厂生产的一组活性染料，活性染料的组分为：重量为待染面料毛坯重量0.275％的活性艳红M-3BE，重量为待染面料毛坯重量1.26％的活性黄M-3RE、重量为待染面料毛坯重量0.43％的活性黑KN-B三者混合而成；所选用的染料助剂包括螯合分散剂、防皱剂，染液中，螯合分散剂为上海雅运精细化工有限公司生产的雅洁瑞ARSK，含量为1g/L、防皱剂为上海雅运精细化工有限公司生产的雅适滑NF，含量为1g/L。将上述活性染料及助剂溶于水并用染料搅拌机在常温下搅拌均匀后倒入染料附缸，然后再加水搅拌进一步稀释均匀，常温状态下分次通过染料附缸打入缸体，染料及其助剂加料时间控制在20min之内完成，与此同时让布在染液中常温下运行20min。面料带染液均匀后开始分次在染液常温加入促染助剂元明粉，元明粉为湖北应城双环化工有限公司生产，含量为：70g/L，元明粉直接加入附缸，加水稀释常温下搅拌均匀后分次均匀打入缸体，加料时间控制在30min之内完成。最后在常温时加入固色剂代用碱，代用碱为浙江传化化工有限公司生产，含量为：3.2g/L，分两次加入，每次加料时间控制在20min，直接加入染料附缸加水稀释搅拌均匀后慢慢打入缸体，所有加料完毕后开始慢慢升温，速度控制在0.5～1℃/min，加温至60℃时开始保温， 保温45min后剪办对色追色，直至颜色达到所确认的颜色小样为止；
12)对再次染色的面料半成品进行冷洗和酸洗，慢慢给缸体加入冷水降温，降温的同时放水，降温速度控制在1℃/min，降至水温40℃时，停止加入冷水直接放水。放水结束后再按浴比所要求的水位进一缸水常温下酸洗，主要目的是中和布面上残留的碱，酸洗的酸剂为江苏索普化工有限公司生产的醋酸，含量为3g/L；
13)接着对面料半成品进行皂洗和再次冷洗，其中皂洗时，将常温酸洗的水排放后再按浴比水位进一缸水，通过染料附缸加入皂洗剂，皂洗剂为净洗剂和螯合分散剂两种助剂的混合，其中净洗剂为南通展亿化工有限公司净洗剂209，含量为2g/L，螯合分散剂为上海雅运精细化工有限公司生产的雅洁瑞ARSK，含量为1g/L。加料的同时慢慢升温，升温速率控制在1℃/min，加温至98℃后保温10min，然后慢慢加冷水降温，降温速率控制在1℃/min，水温降至40℃时放水干净后再进一缸水冷洗，冷洗完毕后再按浴比所要求的水进一缸水；
14)然后对洗净的面料半成品上亲水性柔软剂和亲水性软油精。洗净后的面料半成品不出缸，直接加入含量为0.8g/L的醋酸，常温下循环浸泡15min。再加入亲水柔软剂和亲水性软油精，常温下循环浸泡25min。所述亲水柔软剂为张家港市德宝化工有限公司生产的超蓬松超耐久亲水柔软剂DP-9992，亲水柔软剂用量为待染面料毛坯重量的0.5％，所述亲水性软油精为惠州市华威兴化工有限公司生产亲水性软油精RS，亲水性软油精的用量为待染面料毛坯重量的4％；
15)对上好了亲水性柔软剂和亲水性软油精的面料半成品进行烘干；对烘干好的面料半成品上拉毛机拉毛，拉毛遵循的原则是刚开始第一遍拉毛时轻拉，然后逐遍加深，拉毛次数4～6遍为宜，选用4～6个拉毛机联机连续拉毛作业，拉毛效果要求较长而且均匀细腻手感好；
16)对拉毛好了的面料半成品进行复定型，复定型温度160℃，车速20m/min，超喂布料量为40％，获得吸湿发热快干保湿保暖面料光坯；
17)将所得面料光坯全检成卷入库。
所得面料送国家针织产品质量监督检验中心按实施例1相同标准对各项性能进行检测，结果显示如下：
①保温率32.58％，达到国家标准的≥30％的要求。
②吸湿发热最高升温值6.8℃，超过国家纺织行业标准的≥4.0℃的要求。
③吸湿发热平均升温值3.7℃，达到国家纺织行业标准的≥3.0℃的要求。
④吸水率326％，达到国家标准的≥200％的要求。
⑤滴水扩散时间0.5秒，达到国家标准≤3秒的要求。
⑥芯吸高度183mm，达到国家标准≥100mm的要求。

Claims (14)

  1. 一种吸湿发热快干保湿保暖面料，其特征在于：它由第一纱线、第二纱线、第三纱线以及第四纱线编织而成，其中：
    第一纱线为麻、羊毛或羊绒以及棉纤维中的一种或多种与再生纤维素纤维混纺而成的再生纤维素纤维型混纺纱线、或者为再生纤维素长纤纱、或者为再生纤维素短纤纱；
    第二纱线为非圆形截面的改性聚酯纤维纱线；
    第三纱线为聚酯短纤或聚丙烯腈纤维中的一种或两种与棉纤维混纺的棉纤维型混纺纱线、或者为全棉纱线；
    第四纱线为聚氨酯纤维纱线。
  2. 根据权利要求1所述的吸湿发热快干保湿保暖面料，其特征在于：所述非圆形截面的改性聚酯纤维纱线是截面为十字截面、Y型截面或∞型截面的改性聚酯纤维纱线。
  3. 根据权利要求1或2所述的吸湿发热快干保湿保暖面料，其特征在于：所述面料为外层、中间层、里层构成的三层结构，所述外层由第一纱线和第四纱线编织构成，所述中间层由第二纱线的和第四纱线编织构成，所述里层由第二纱线、第三纱线和第四纱线编织构成。
  4. 根据权利要求1或2所述的吸湿发热快干保湿保暖面料，其特征在于：所述再生纤维素纤维型混纺纱线中，按照重量百分比，再生纤维素纤维占50～80％。
  5. 根据权利要求1或2所述的吸湿发热快干保湿保暖面料，其特征在于：所述棉纤维型混纺纱线中，按照重量百分比，棉纤维占60～90％。
  6. 一种权利要求1所述吸湿发热快干保湿保暖面料的制备方法，其特征在于：它依次包括以下步骤：
    1)根据所设计的面料选择第一纱线、第二纱线、第三纱线和第四纱线原料；
    2)将原料上机织造，织造时为后道工序的开幅定型预留好剖幅线，得到面料毛坯；
    3)将所得面料毛坯沿剖幅线剖幅并同时全检入库；
    4)将检验合格的面料毛坯由卷装退卷装入布车，然后接疋成连续状；
    5)将整车接好疋的面料毛坯进行预定型，预定型温度为170～200℃，车速15～25m/min，超喂布料量为15～40％；
    6)根据配缸的面料毛坯重量和浴比给染缸进水，预定型好的面料毛坯进 缸后，将布头布尾缝合成可以连续染缸运行的绳环状；
    7)对进缸好的面料毛坯进行染整前处理得面料半成品；
    8)采用染色液对染整前处理好的面料半成品中非圆型截面的改性聚酯纤维纱线进行染色；
    9)采用还原清洗液对染色后的面料半成品进行还原清洗，还原清洗时温度控制为85～100℃、保温时间控制为15～30min；
    10)对面料半成品进行热洗，所述热洗温度控制为85～98℃、保温时间控制为10～20min，洗净后，再进水冷洗10～20min；
    11)对面料半成品的其他纤维进行再次染色；
    12)对再次染色的面料半成品进行冷洗和酸洗；
    13)对面料半成品进行皂洗和再次冷洗，直至将染料浮色洗净；
    14)对面料半成品上亲水性柔软剂和上亲水性软油精；
    15)对面料半成品烘干后进行拉毛处理；
    16)对面料半成品进行复定型，得到面料光坯，复定型温度为150～160℃，车速为15～25m/min，超喂布料量为25～50％；
    17)将所得面料光坯全检成卷入库。
  7. 根据权利要求6所述吸湿发热快干保湿保暖面料的制备方法，其特征在于：所述步骤2)中，上机织造方法为：
    第一纱线和第四纱线采用上针出满针单面编织的方式进线形成织物的外层；第二纱线和第四纱线采取下针一隔一出半针成圈编织和上针一隔一出半针集圈编织的双面编织方式进线编织，第三纱线采用下针一隔一出半针单面进线编织；其中：第二纱线和第四纱线上针一隔一出半针集圈编织部分构成织物的中间层：第三纱线的单面进线编织和第二纱线、第四纱线下针一隔一出半针成圈编织部分共同构成织物的里层；或者：
    第一纱线和第四纱线采用下针出满针单面编织的方式进线形成织物的外层；第二纱线和第四纱线采取上针一隔一出半针成圈编织和下针一隔一出半针集圈编织的双面编织方式进线编织，第三纱线采用上针一隔一出半针单面进线编织；其中：第二纱线和第四纱线下针一隔一出半针集圈编织部分构成织物的中间层；第三纱线的单面进线编织和第二纱线、第四纱线上针一隔一出半针成圈编织部分共同构成织物的里层。
  8. 根据权利要求6或7所述吸湿发热快干保湿保暖面料的制备方法，其特征在于：所述步骤6)中，浴比为1∶5～15。
  9. 根据权利要求6或7所述吸湿发热快干保湿保暖面料的制备方法，其特征在于：所述步骤8)中，染色时，染色液的温度控制为110～130℃，保温时间为20～45min，染色液升、降温的速度控制为0.5～1℃/min。
  10. 根据权利要求6或7所述吸湿发热快干保湿保暖面料的制备方法，其特征在于：所述步骤8)中，染色液由分散染料和染料助剂混合而成，其中染料助剂包括含量为0.5～1.5g/L的螯合分散剂，含量为0.5～2g/L的防皱剂，含量为0.5～1g/L的高温匀染剂，含量为0.5～1g/L的醋酸。
  11. 根据权利要求6或7所述吸湿发热快干保湿保暖面料的制备方法，其特征在于：所述步骤9)中所用还原清洗液是防皱剂、连二亚硫酸钠和纯碱溶液的混合液，其中防皱剂含量为1～2g/L、连二亚硫酸钠含量为0.5～1g/L、纯碱含量为0.5～2g/L。
  12. 根据权利要求6或7所述吸湿发热快干保湿保暖面料的制备方法，其特征在于：所述步骤13)中，皂洗时所用皂洗剂为净洗剂和螯合分散剂两种助剂的混合物，皂洗剂中净洗剂含量为1～3g/L，螯合分散剂含量为1～2g/L。
  13. 根据权利要求6或7所述吸湿发热快干保湿保暖面料的制备方法，其特征在于：所述步骤14)中，亲水性柔软剂用量为待染面料毛坯重量的0.5～2％，亲水性软油精用量为待染面料毛坯重量的3～5％。
  14. 根据权利要求6或7所述吸湿发热快干保湿保暖面料的制备方法，其特征在于：所述步骤14)中，对面料半成品上亲水性柔软剂和上亲水性软油精前，先对面料半成品进行酸洗10～20min。
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