WO2017162183A1 - 一种双面针织面料 - Google Patents

一种双面针织面料 Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2017162183A1
WO2017162183A1 PCT/CN2017/077787 CN2017077787W WO2017162183A1 WO 2017162183 A1 WO2017162183 A1 WO 2017162183A1 CN 2017077787 W CN2017077787 W CN 2017077787W WO 2017162183 A1 WO2017162183 A1 WO 2017162183A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
fabric
double
inner layer
convex
knitted fabric
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Ceased
Application number
PCT/CN2017/077787
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English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
翁佛全
张晴
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Toray Fibers and Textiles Research Laboratories China Co Ltd
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Toray Fibers and Textiles Research Laboratories China Co Ltd
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Application filed by Toray Fibers and Textiles Research Laboratories China Co Ltd filed Critical Toray Fibers and Textiles Research Laboratories China Co Ltd
Priority to CN201780004144.6A priority Critical patent/CN108350628A/zh
Priority to JP2018549881A priority patent/JP2019509407A/ja
Priority to US16/087,805 priority patent/US20190112735A1/en
Priority to EP17769460.1A priority patent/EP3434818A4/en
Publication of WO2017162183A1 publication Critical patent/WO2017162183A1/zh
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/16—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials synthetic threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/18—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/20—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting articles of particular configuration
    • D04B21/207—Wearing apparel or garment blanks
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/10—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/02—Moisture-responsive characteristics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/02—Moisture-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/021—Moisture-responsive characteristics hydrophobic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/02—Moisture-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/022—Moisture-responsive characteristics hydrophylic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/06—Load-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/061—Load-responsive characteristics elastic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/02—Cross-sectional features
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a double-knit fabric, in particular to a double-knit fabric which can maintain the dry feeling of human skin.
  • a three-dimensional water-conducting single-sided double-layer knitted fabric disclosed in the patent document CN204281985U, wherein the surface layer is a moisture-absorbing and quick-drying layer formed by a hydrophilic modified polyester low-elastic fiber, and the inner layer is a water-repellent layer formed by a nylon coated wire.
  • the layer, the moisture-absorbing and quick-drying layer protrudes to the water-repellent layer to form a U-shaped structure, the fabric absorbs the sweat through the U-shaped structure, and the water-repellent layer prevents the fabric from sticking to the skin when sweating, thus having a certain dry effect.
  • the thickness of the water-repellent layer is insufficient to prevent the surface layer of the fabric from adhering to the human skin due to the use of a single-sided structure.
  • the convex U-shaped structure itself is in contact with the skin, so The fabric covered with sweat is more likely to stick to the skin; in addition, because the inner layer is a water repellent layer, the sweat absorption capacity is insufficient, and the sweat is difficult to discharge in time.
  • a fabric for clothing is disclosed in Japanese Patent Laid-Open Publication No. 2011-226026A, in which The layer forms a lateral or longitudinal groove, and the convex portion between the groove and the groove uses a water-repellent yarn, and the sweat on the skin can flow to the groove through the convex portion, and flows out through the groove by the gravity of the sweat itself. To a certain extent, it gives the skin a dry effect.
  • the convex part uses a water-repellent yarn, the sweat absorption performance is low, and sweat can not be exported to the surface in a large amount when sweating; in addition, the continuous convex portion causes the skin. The touch is strong and the wearing comfort is insufficient.
  • a double-knit fabric having an evaporation layer and a moisture-conducting layer disclosed in the patent document CN204281985U by providing a concave-convex structure to the moisture-conducting layer, forms a certain air circulation space between the skin and the fabric, and brings the human body to the human body. Cool feeling; at the same time, through the difference in linear density between the evaporation layer and the moisture-conducting layer, the single-guide wetness of the fabric is increased, and the quick-drying effect is improved.
  • the concave portion has no moisture-conducting coil, so that the perspiration performance of the fabric is greatly reduced; in addition, when the human body produces a large amount of sweat, it is guided by the convex portion in contact with the skin. If you sweat and sweat, you still can't effectively solve the problem of the fabric sticking to the skin.
  • an object of the present invention is to provide a double-knit fabric which is simple in processing and which can adhere to the skin while maintaining a dry feeling in the skin in a large amount of sweat.
  • the double-knit fabric of the present invention comprises a surface layer and a back layer, wherein the surface layer and the inner layer are connected by a loop formation, the inner layer has a concave-convex structure, and at least one of the longitudinal and lateral directions of each convex unit is from 3 to 10
  • the coil is constructed.
  • the invention forms a specific concave-convex structure in the inner layer by adopting a double-sided full-loop structure structure. obtain. Using a specific concave-convex structure to discharge sweat in time, effectively improving the problem of the fabric sticking to the skin, even if a lot of sweating can maintain the dry performance of the skin contact surface, the wearing comfort is better, especially suitable for making T-shirts, POLO shirts Wait.
  • 1 is a schematic view showing the structure of a double-knit fabric according to the present invention, wherein 1 is a surface layer, 2 is an inner layer, 3 is a convex portion of the inner layer, 4 is a concave portion of the inner layer, and h is a height of the inner layer convex portion.
  • 2 is a schematic view of a concave-convex structure unit, wherein 5 is the number of transverse coils of the convex unit, 6 is the number of longitudinal coils of the convex unit, 7 is the number of transverse coils of the concave unit, and 8 is the longitudinal coil of the concave unit. Number.
  • the present invention selects a double-sided structure having a surface layer and an inner layer which are woven by a double-sided circular knitting machine.
  • the double-sided circular knitting fabric there are three ways to connect the two layers in the watch. The first one is the tucking mode, that is, the dial and the cylinder are both on the circumference, and the connected yarn is sandwiched between the two layers.
  • the tucking mode that is, the dial and the cylinder are both on the circumference, and the connected yarn is sandwiched between the two layers.
  • the second type is a loop forming method in which the dial and the syringe are looped, the connected yarns have coils on both sides, and the surface having the concave-convex structure can be obtained by the difference in tissue design or braided wire length, so that the fabric and the skin Forming point contact, increasing the air circulation space between the fabric and the skin, so that the human body has a refreshing feeling; in addition, the sweat can quickly lead to the surface through the concave portion formed by the inner layer to achieve a dry feeling of the skin surface;
  • the kind is a combination of the tuck and the loop, that is, the dial is formed into a loop of the needle or the dial of the dial is formed into a loop, and the connecting yarn forms a mesh on the side of the loop, although such a mesh structure can be To some extent, increase the air circulation space between the fabric and the skin, however, the mesh The pore portion has no loop-forming coil that can be used to conduct sweat, and can only rely on the non-mesh portion that is in
  • the arrangement of the uneven structure is not particularly limited, and may be continuous or discontinuous. However, in view of the convenience of weaving, it is preferred that the uneven structure is continuously arranged.
  • the size of the convex unit also affects the dry effect of the fabric.
  • the number of longitudinal and lateral coils constituting the convex unit is less than three, the fabric directly contacting the skin in the unit area is too small, and it is difficult to form an effective air circulation passage in the garment, and the dry effect is poor;
  • the number of longitudinal and lateral coils of the unit is more than 10, a large convex portion is formed in the inner layer, the skin contact feeling is poor, and sweat easily spreads and stays in the convex portion, and it is difficult to improve the dry effect. Therefore, in the uneven structure of the present invention, at least one of the longitudinal and lateral directions of each convex unit is composed of 3 to 10 coils, and more preferably 3 to 10 coils are vertically and horizontally.
  • the size of the recess unit in the uneven structure is not particularly limited in the present invention. Considering that when the number of longitudinal and lateral coils constituting the concave unit is less than three, the sweat-wicking ability is lowered, and there is a possibility that sweat is stagnated in the inner layer of the fabric; when the number of longitudinal and lateral coils constituting the concave unit is When there are more than 10, although the perspiration performance is improved, it also increases the probability of contact between the concave portion and the fabric. After the sweat is absorbed, there may be a problem that the fabric adheres to the skin. Therefore, in the present invention, it is preferable that at least one of the longitudinal and lateral directions of each of the concave unit is constituted by 3 to 10 coils, and more preferably 3 to 10 coils are vertically and horizontally.
  • the height of the convex portion unit has a certain influence on the dry effect of the fabric. Therefore, in the present invention, the height of the convex portion unit is preferably 0.05 to 0.40 mm, and more preferably 0.10 to 0.30 mm.
  • the height of the convex unit is less than 0.05 mm, the contact area between the fabric and the skin is Increasing trend, there may be a phenomenon that the fabric is soaked and sweated on the skin after sweating; in general, the higher the height of the convex unit, the more the fabric can be blocked from the skin, and the better the dry effect, however, When the height of the convex unit is more than 0.40 mm, a feeling of tingling may occur during wearing, and wearing comfort is lowered.
  • the convex fibers on the reverse side of the fabric.
  • non-polyester fibers such as cellulose fiber and nylon fiber are used, because these fibers have superior hygroscopicity, the reverse side of the fabric easily absorbs a large amount of water, and some of the water is difficult to diffuse in time.
  • the surface may cause the water retention on the reverse side to increase, the wearing comfort to be reduced, and the sultry feeling to be generated; on the other hand, if the non-elastic polyester fiber is used, the degree of yarn shrinkage during the post-woven processing is too small, It may not be possible to obtain the desired height of the protrusions, and the phenomenon that the quick-drying effect is not obvious may occur. Therefore, it is preferable to use a polyester-based elastic fiber for the convex fiber on the reverse side of the fabric of the present invention.
  • the polyester elastic fiber used in the present invention is preferably an elastic fiber having a stretch recovery ratio (CR value) of 30 to 70%.
  • the polyester-based elastic fiber having a CR value within this range has a good crimping property, and the convex portion of the back surface of the fabric formed by the film has a high height, and even if a large amount of sweat is applied, the fabric is not easily adhered to the skin and can always be kept in contact with the skin.
  • the CR value is more preferably 40 to 60%.
  • the type of the polyester-based elastic fiber used in the present invention is not particularly limited, and may be a one-component elastic fiber, a two-component side-by-side elastic fiber, a high-elastic false-twisted yarn, or the like, preferably polyterephthalic acid.
  • the two-component side-by-side type elastic fiber in consideration of the fact that the two-component side-by-side elastic fiber has better bundleability than the one-component elastic fiber and is more advantageous for improving the yarn resistance of the fabric.
  • the shape of the elastic fiber is not special.
  • the definition may be a full drawn yarn FDY or a false twisted textured yarn DTY.
  • the polyester elastic fiber used in the present invention preferably has a fineness of 50 to 200 denier (D), more preferably 60 to 80 denier (D), to ensure the grammage and soft hand of the fabric.
  • the yarn of the surface layer, the yarn of the inner layer concave portion, and the fiber raw material for connecting the yarn may be the same or different, and are not particularly limited.
  • the fiber raw materials may be cellulose fibers such as cotton, viscose, etc., and may also be synthetic fibers such as non-elastic ordinary polyester fibers, nylon fibers, and the like, and may also be protein fibers such as wool, silk, and the like.
  • the spandex bare filament can also be used for mixing in the present invention.
  • the fineness of the spandex bare yarn is preferably 20 to 70D.
  • the greater the span of the spandex the greater the shrinkage of the fabric and the thicker the fabric.
  • the fineness of the spandex bare yarn in the present invention is more preferably 20 to 40D.
  • the water retention ratio of the inner layer is preferably 10% or less, and more preferably 5% or less.
  • the water retention ratio in the surface is preferably 3.0 or more, and more preferably 3.0 to 40.0.
  • a 1.0 cm*0.5 cm sample is cut according to the woven texture of the fabric, and the sample is adhered to the convex sample stage (the longitudinal direction of the fabric is perpendicular to the surface of the convex sample stage);
  • the cross section of the prepared sample was observed using a KEYENCE VHX-2000C microscope. Specifically, the microscope magnification is adjusted to 150 times, and the observation is subjected to depth synthesis and 3D display, and then Select a straight line a tangent to the surface of two adjacent concave portions, and then select another straight line b parallel to the above-mentioned straight line a, and tangent to the adjacent two convex portions, and measure the distance h between the two straight lines of ab , that is, the height of the convex portion;
  • the inner layer water retention rate (%) (w4-w3) / (W 2 - W 1 ) ⁇ 100
  • W1 weight of filter paper on the front surface of water absorption (g)
  • W2 weight of surface filter paper after water absorption
  • W4 The weight (g) of the filter paper inside the water absorption.
  • the yarn to be tested is conditioned for 12 hours under standard atmospheric pressure
  • D yarn Line denier (denier);
  • the elastic elongation ⁇ 60% is judged to be excellent, indicated by ⁇ ;
  • the elastic elongation ⁇ 45% was judged to be general and indicated by ⁇ .
  • the anti-hooking property was tested according to the JIS L1058:2011 method. among them,
  • the anti-hooking property ⁇ 4 grade is judged to be excellent, indicated by ⁇ ;
  • Grade 3 ⁇ anti-hooking property ⁇ 4 grade is judged to be good, indicated by ⁇ ;
  • the anti-hooking property ⁇ 3 grade is judged to be general, and is represented by ⁇ .
  • the odd-numbered roads use 75D-72f-common PET DTY (made by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.), and the even-numbered roads use 60D-24f-PBT DTY (CR value is 49%, Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.)
  • the specific performance is shown in Table 1.
  • the needle is looped, and the 4th to 6th needle float lines form the convex portion of the inner layer; in the 8th, 10th, and 12th roads, the 1st to 3rd needles on the needle cylinder are float lines, and the 4th to 6th needles are formed into loops. a loop of convex parts.
  • the fabric is woven by a 20-way weaving cycle.
  • all the needles on the dial of the 1, 3, 5, 7, and 9 are formed into a surface layer, and the 4th to 6th on the needle cylinder.
  • the needle is looped to form the concave portion of the inner layer; the 11th, 13th, 15th, 17th, and 19th roads are all formed on the dial to form a surface layer, and the first to third needles on the needle cylinder are looped to form a concave portion of the next cycle.
  • the 2nd, 4th, 6th, 8th, and 10th roads are stitched in the first to the 10th stitches on the needle cylinder, and the 11th to 15th needle float lines are formed in the inner layer; the 12th, 14th, 16th, 18th, and 20th roads are formed; The first to fifth needles on the cylinder are float lines, and the sixth to fifteenth needles are looped to form a convex portion of the next cycle, and the same as in the first embodiment, the knitted fabric of the present invention is obtained.
  • the specific performance is shown in Table 1.
  • the 12-way weaving cycle is used to make the grey fabric.
  • all the needles on the dials of the 1, 3, and 5 roads are formed into a surface layer, and the 6th to 8th stitches on the needle cylinder are formed into a circle.
  • the recesses of the layer; the 7th, 9th, and 11th roads are all formed on the dial to form a surface layer, and the first to third needles on the needle cylinder are looped to form a recess of the next cycle;
  • the second, fourth, and sixth paths are The first to fifth stitches on the cylinder are looped, and the sixth to eighth needle floats form the convex portion of the inner layer;
  • the first to third needles on the cylinder in the eighth, tenth, and 12th paths are the floating line, and the fourth ⁇
  • the 8 needles are looped to form the convex portion of the next cycle.
  • the rest of the same as in Example 1 gave the knitted fabric of the present invention.
  • the specific performance is shown in Table 1.
  • the odd-numbered road uses 60S cotton spun yarn (made by Jiangsu Wuxi First Cotton Spinning Factory), and the even-numbered road uses 75D-48f-PBT/PET DTY (CR value: 41%, Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) to 20 roads.
  • the fabric is woven for a weaving cycle.
  • the first, third, fifth, seventh, and ninth roads are all formed on the dial to form a surface layer, and the sixth to ninth stitches on the cylinder are formed into a loop.
  • the concave portion of the inner layer; the 11th, 13th, 15th, 17th, and 19th roads are all formed on the dial to form a surface layer, and the first to fourth needles on the needle cylinder are looped to form a concave portion of the next cycle; 4, 6, 8, and 10 roads are stitched in the first to fifth stitches on the syringe, and the sixth to the 9th needle floats form the convex portion of the inner layer; in the 12th, 14th, 16th, 18th, and 20th roads in the syringe
  • the first to fourth needles on the top were float lines, and the fifth to ninth needles were looped to form a convex portion of the next cycle, and the same as in the first embodiment, the knitted fabric of the present invention was obtained.
  • the specific performance is shown in Table 1.
  • the odd-numbered roads are made of 40D-24f-nylon FDY (made by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.), and the even-numbered roads are made of 50D-24f-PTT DTY (CR value of 31%, manufactured by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.).
  • 20-way weaving cycle to obtain the grey fabric.
  • the first, third, fifth, seventh, and ninth roads all the needles on the dial are formed into a surface layer, and the sixth to eighth stitches on the needle cylinder are looped.
  • the 11th, 13th, 15th, 17th, and 19th roads are all formed on the dial to form a surface layer, and the first to third needles on the needle cylinder are looped to form a recess of the next cycle;
  • the 4th, 5th, 8th, and 10th roads are stitched in the first to fifth stitches on the needle cylinder, and the 6th to 8th needle float lines form the convex part of the inner layer;
  • the 12th, 14th, 16th, 18th, and 20th roads are in the needle
  • the first to third needles on the cylinder were float lines, and the fourth to eighth needles were looped to form a convex portion of the next cycle, and the same as in the first embodiment, the knitted fabric of the present invention was obtained.
  • the specific performance is shown in Table 1.
  • the odd-numbered road uses 60S polyester/viscose blended spun yarn (made by Jiangsu Wuxi First Cotton Spinning Factory), and the even-numbered road uses 50D-24f-PTT/PET FDY (CR value is 40%, Dongli Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.
  • the fabric is woven by a weaving cycle of 16 channels. When weaving, all the needles on the dials of the 1, 3, 5, and 7 roads are formed into a surface layer, and the 7th to 10th stitches on the needle cylinder are looped.
  • the 9th, 11th, 13th, and 15th roads are all formed on the dial to form a surface layer, and the first to fourth needles on the needle cylinder are looped to form a recess of the next cycle;
  • the first to sixth needles on the cylinder are looped, the sixth to tenth needle floats form the convex portion of the inner layer, and the first, second, and tenth of the 10th, 12th, 14th, and 16th roads are on the syringe.
  • the four needles were float lines, and the fifth to tenth needles were looped to form the convex portions of the next cycle, and the rest of the same manner as in Example 1 gave the knitted fabric of the present invention.
  • the specific performance is shown in Table 1.
  • the even-numbered road was selected from 60D-24f-PBT DTY (CR value of 35%, manufactured by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.), and the same as in Example 3, the knitted fabric of the present invention was obtained.
  • the specific performance is shown in Table 1.
  • the even-numbered road was selected from 60D-36f-normal PET DTY (CR value: 20%, manufactured by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.), and the rest was the same as in Example 3 to obtain the knitted fabric of the present invention.
  • the specific performance is shown in Table 1.
  • the odd-numbered roads use 75D-72f-common PET DTY (made by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) and 30D spandex (United States INVISTA), and even-numbered roads use 75D-36f-high-elastic PET DTY (CR value is 30%, Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.), the rest of the same as Example 3, to obtain the present invention Knitted fabric.
  • the specific performance is shown in Table 1.
  • the odd-numbered road uses 75D-72f-common PET DTY (Dongli Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.), and the even-numbered road uses 75D-48f-PBT/PET DTY (CR value is 41%, Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.
  • the same as in Example 4 the knitted fabric of the present invention was obtained.
  • the specific performance is shown in Table 1.
  • the odd-numbered road uses 75D-72f-common PET DTY (Dongli Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.), and the even-numbered road uses 50D-24f-PTT DTY (CR value is 31%, Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.)
  • the specific performance is shown in Table 1.
  • the 8th road is woven into a weaving cycle to obtain a grey fabric.
  • all the needles on the dials of the 1st and 3rd roads are fully formed into a surface layer, and the 4th and 5th stitches on the needle cylinder are formed into a loop.
  • the concave portion; the 5th and 7th roads all the needles on the dial are formed into a surface layer, and the first and second needles on the needle cylinder are looped to form a recess of the next cycle; the second and fourth roads are on the needle cylinder 1 to 3 stitches are formed, and the 4th and 5th needle float lines form the convex portion of the inner layer; in the 6th and 8th roads, the first and second needles on the needle cylinder are floating lines, and the third to fifth needles are formed into circles.
  • the convex portion of the next cycle the rest of the same as in Example 1, gave the knitted fabric of the present invention. Specific characteristics Can be as shown in Table 1.
  • the 12-way weaving cycle is used to obtain the grey fabric.
  • all the needles on the dials of the first, third, and fifth paths are formed into a surface layer, and the third to fifth stitches on the needle cylinder are formed into a loop.
  • the concave portion of the inner layer; the seventh, ninth, and eleventh roads are formed on the dial with all the needles forming a surface layer, and the first to third needles on the needle cylinder are looped to form a recess of the next cycle; the second, fourth, and sixth paths
  • the first and second needles on the cylinder are looped, and the third to fifth needle floats form a convex portion of the inner layer; in the eighth, tenth, and 12th roads, the first to third needles on the cylinder are floating lines, 4, 5 needles are formed into loops to form the next cycle of the convex portion, and the rest of the same as in the first embodiment, the knitted fabric of the present invention is obtained.
  • the specific performance is shown in Table 1.
  • Example 3 An intermediate setting (temperature 190 ° C, vehicle speed 20 m/min) was added between the pretreatment processing and the dyeing, and the rest was the same as in Example 3 to obtain the knitted fabric of the present invention.
  • the specific performance is shown in Table 1.
  • the even-numbered road was selected from 30D-24f-PBT DTY (CR value: 49%, manufactured by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.), and the rest was the same as in Example 3 to obtain the knitted fabric of the present invention.
  • the specific performance is shown in Table 1.
  • the even-numbered road was selected from 250D-96f-PBT DTY (CR value: 49%, manufactured by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.), and the rest was the same as in Example 3 to obtain the knitted fabric of the present invention.
  • the specific performance is shown in Table 1.
  • the even circuit uses 75D-48f-PBT DTY (CR value is 41%, Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Limited
  • the company was the same as in Example 10 to obtain the knitted fabric of the present invention.
  • the specific performance is shown in Table 1.
  • the fabric is woven by 6-way weaving cycle.
  • the first and fourth roads are made of 75D-72f-Ordinary PET DTY (Dongli Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) to form the surface layer in a full circle.
  • the 3rd and 6th roads use 60D-24f-PBT DTY (CR value: 49%, Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) to form the inner layer in full circle
  • the second and fifth channels use 75D-72f- Ordinary PET DTY (manufactured by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) is connected to the two sides of the watch in a tuck on the dial and the syringe. The rest is the same as in the first embodiment, and the knitted fabric is obtained. 1 is shown.
  • the first, third, fifth, seventh, and ninth roads are all looped on the dial to form a surface layer; the second, fourth, and sixth paths on the needle cylinder are connected to the third layer of the watch. And the inner layer of the mesh is formed; the sixth needle tuck on the dial in the 8th, 10th, and 12th roads is connected to the two layers in the table to form the mesh of the next cycle, and the rest is the same as in the first embodiment to obtain the knitted fabric.
  • Table 1 The specific performance is shown in Table 1.
  • weaving is carried out in a weaving cycle of 8 roads. All the needles on the dials of the 1, 3, 5, and 7 roads are formed into a surface layer, and the third in the first and third paths on the needle cylinder. The 4 needles are looped to form the concave portion of the inner layer, and the first and second needles on the cylinder in the 5th and 7th loops are looped to form the concave portion of the next cycle, and the first and second rows on the second and fourth paths are on the needle cylinder.
  • the needle is in a loop, the third and fourth needles are floating lines to form a convex portion of the inner layer; in the sixth and eighth paths, the first and second needles are floating lines on the needle cylinder, and the third and fourth needles are looped to form a next one.
  • the knitted fabric of the convex portion unit having five stitches in the lateral direction and the knitted fabric having the convex portion unit having three stitches in the lateral direction are higher in the convex portion of the former. More than the latter, the former has a lower water retention rate than the latter, and the surface water retention ratio is higher than the latter, so the former has better water absorption and quick drying than the latter.
  • Example 3 It can be seen from Example 3 and Example 7 that under the same conditions, the knitted fabric of the PBT fiber having the convex portion of 49% of the CR value is compared with the knitted fabric of the PBT fiber having the convex portion of 35% of the CR value.
  • the height of the convex portion is larger than that of the latter, and the water retention rate of the inner layer of the former is lower than that of the latter, and the water retention ratio of the surface is higher than that of the latter, so that the former has better water absorption and quick drying than the latter.
  • Example 10 and Example 4 From Example 11 and Example 5, and from Example 12 and Example 6, under the same conditions, the knitted fabric and the concave portion of the concave portion using the hydrophobic yarn are used.
  • the height of the convex part of the two is equivalent, but the former has a lower water retention rate than the latter, and the water retention ratio in the surface is higher than the latter, so the former has better water absorption and quick drying performance.
  • Example 3 and Example 8 It can be seen from Example 3 and Example 8 that, under the same conditions, the knitted fabric in which the convex portion fibers are PBT and the knitted fabric in which the convex portion fibers are ordinary PET are larger than the latter in the former.
  • the former has a lower water retention rate than the latter, and the surface water retention ratio is higher than the latter, so the former has better water absorption and quick drying than the latter.
  • Example 1 and Example 13 Example 1 and Example 14, it can be seen that under the same conditions, the knitted fabric and the convex unit having three coils in the lateral direction and the longitudinal direction of the convex unit have only one direction of three.
  • the height of the convex portion of the coil is equivalent, but the water retention rate of the inner layer of the former is lower than that of the latter, and the water retention ratio of the surface is higher than that of the latter, so that the former has better water absorption and quick drying than the latter.
  • Example 3 It can be seen from Example 3 and Example 15 that under the same conditions, the knitted fabric having a convex portion height of 0.40 mm has a lower water retention ratio than the knitted fabric having a convex portion height of 0.30 mm.
  • the water retention ratio in the surface and the surface is higher than that in the latter, so the former has better water absorption and quick drying than the latter.
  • the knitted fabric of the PBT fiber having the convex portion of 60D and the knitted fabric of the PBT fiber having the convex portion of 30D are the height of the convex portion of the former. It is larger than the latter, while the former has a lower water retention rate than the latter, and the water retention ratio in the surface is higher than the latter, so the former has better water absorption and quick drying than the latter; and the former has better anti-hooking properties than the latter. .
  • Example 3 and Example 17 it can be seen that, under the same conditions, the knitted fabric of the PBT fiber having the convex portion of 60D and the knitted fabric of the PBT fiber having the convexity of 250D are larger than the knitted fabric of the PBT having the fineness of 250D.
  • the latter while the former has a lower water retention rate than the latter, and the surface water retention ratio is higher than the latter, so the former has better water absorption and quick drying than the latter; and the former has better elastic properties than the latter.

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Abstract

一种双面针织面料，包括表层（1）和里层（2），其中表层（1）和里层（2）通过成圈方式连接，里层（2）具有凹凸结构，且每个凸部单元（3）的纵、横向中至少有一个方向由3～10个线圈构成。该双面针织面料的肌肤接触面的干爽性能优异，穿着舒适度较佳，特别适合用于制作T恤、POLO衫等。

Description

一种双面针织面料 技术领域
本发明涉及一种双面针织面料，具体涉及一种可以保持人体肌肤干爽感的双面针织面料。
背景技术
随着科技的日益进步，新的设计理念不断地被运用到服装面料的开发当中。面对炎热的夏季，汗液处理成为服装领域的一个重要的课题。炎炎夏日，人体一般会通过排泄汗液的方式使身体降低到一个舒适的温度，但是，当人体大量出汗时，服装很容易被汗水完全浸透而黏附在皮肤上，阻碍人体进一步的排汗降温，产生闷热、压迫等不适感。
目前，市面上有很多关于吸水排汗的技术，对处理少量出汗具有一定的效果，但是当人体大量出汗时面料仍然会黏贴皮肤，让人产生不适感。如专利文献CN204281985U中公开的一种立体导水单面双层针织面料，其表层为亲水改性聚酯低弹丝纤维形成的吸湿快干层，里层为锦纶包覆丝形成的拒水层，吸湿快干层向拒水层凸出形成U型结构，面料通过U型结构进行吸汗，而拒水层则是防止出汗时面料黏附在皮肤上，因此具有一定干爽效果。但是，当人体产生大量汗液时，由于采用的是单面组织，其拒水层的厚度不足以阻挡面料表层与人体肌肤黏附，再者，其凸出的U型结构本身就与皮肤接触，因此沾满了汗液的面料更容易黏贴在皮肤上；另外，由于里层为拒水层，吸汗能力不足，汗液难以及时排出。
又如，日本专利文献特开2011-226026A中公开的一种衣料用编地，其里 层形成横向或者纵向沟槽，且沟槽与沟槽之间的凸部使用的是拒水性纱线，肌肤上的汗液可以通过凸部流向沟槽，并借助汗液自身重力经由沟槽流出，在一定程度上给肌肤面带来了干爽效果，但是，由于其凸部使用的是拒水性纱线，吸汗性能较低，大量出汗时汗液无法及时导出到表面；另外，连续的凸部导致皮肤的触感强烈，穿着舒适性不足。
再如，专利文献CN204281985U中公开的一种具有蒸发层和导湿层的双面针织面料，通过对导湿层设置凹凸结构，使皮肤与面料之间形成一定的空气循环空间，给人体带来凉爽的感觉；同时，通过蒸发层和导湿层之间的线密度差，增加面料的单向导湿性，提高速干效果。但是，由于凹凸结构是通过集圈方式连接形成的，凹部没有导湿的线圈，使得面料的排汗性能大大降低；再者，当人体产生大量汗液时，单纯依靠与皮肤接触的凸部进行导汗排汗的话，仍然无法有效解决面料黏附皮肤的问题。
因此，开发出在大量出汗的情况下仍能保持肌肤面干爽感的面料具有非常重要的意义。
发明内容
针对以上问题，本发明的目的在于提供一种加工简单，在大量出汗的情况下，不会黏贴皮肤同时能保持肌肤面干爽感的双面针织面料。
本发明的技术解决方案：
本发明的双面针织面料，包括表层和里层，表层和里层通过成圈方式连接，里层具有凹凸结构，且每个凸部单元的纵、横向中至少有一个方向由3～10个线圈构成。
本发明通过采用双面全成圈的组织结构，在里层形成特定的凹凸结构而 获得。利用特定的凹凸结构及时将汗液排出，有效改善了面料黏贴皮肤的问题，即便大量出汗也能保持肌肤接触面的干爽性能，穿着舒适度较佳，特别适合用于制作T恤、POLO衫等。
附图说明
图1为本发明的双面针织面料结构示意图，其中，1为表层、2为里层、3为里层的凸部、4为里层的凹部、h为里层凸部的高度。
图2为凹凸结构单元的示意图，其中，5为凸部单元的横向线圈个数、6为凸部单元的纵向线圈个数、7为凹部单元的横向线圈个数、8为凹部单元的纵向线圈个数。
具体实施方式
考虑到单面组织过于单薄，无法有效阻碍已被汗液浸透的面料黏贴在皮肤上，因此本发明选用由双面圆编机编织得到的具有表层和里层的双面组织。双面圆编针织物中，连接表里两层有三种方式，第一种是集圈方式，即针盘和针筒两面都集圈，连接的纱线夹在两层的中间，当人体出汗时，由于里层的表面比较平坦，汗液容易在里层扩散，肌肤面难以获得干爽感的效果。第二种是成圈方式，即针盘和针筒都成圈，连接的纱线在两面都有线圈，并且可以通过组织设计或编织线长的差异获得具有凹凸结构的表面，使得面料与皮肤间形成点接触，增加面料与皮肤之间的空气循环空间，使人体具有清爽的感觉；另外，汗液可以通过连接丝在里层形成的凹部快速导出表面而达到肌肤面干爽感的效果；第三种是集圈和成圈的结合方式，即针盘成圈针筒集圈或者针盘集圈针筒成圈，连接纱线在成圈的一面形成网孔，虽然这样的网孔结构可以在一定程度上增加面料与皮肤之间的空气循环空间，但是，网孔 的孔隙部分没有可以用于传导汗液的成圈线圈，只能依靠与人体皮肤接触的非网孔部分，干爽效果大大减弱。因此，本发明选用成圈的方式连接表里两层。
本发明中，凹凸结构的排列方式不做特别限定，可以连续也可以非连续。但是考虑到编织的方便性，优选凹凸结构连续排列。
另外，凹凸结构中，凸部单元的大小也会影响到面料的干爽效果。当构成凸部单元的纵、横向的线圈个数均少于3个时，单位面积内直接接触皮肤的面料过少，难以在服装内形成有效的空气流通通道，干爽效果差；当构成凸部单元的纵、横向线圈个数均多于10个时，在里层形成了较大的凸部，皮肤接触感差，而且汗液容易在凸部中扩散并停留，难以提高干爽效果。因此本发明的凹凸结构中，每个凸部单元的纵、横向中至少有一个方向由3～10个线圈构成，更优选纵横向均由3～10个线圈构成。
本发明对凹凸结构中的凹部单元大小没有特别限定。考虑到当构成凹部单元的纵、横向线圈个数均少于3个时，导汗能力下降，有可能出现汗液停滞在面料的里层的现象；当构成凹部单元的纵、横向线圈个数均多于10个时，虽然导汗性能得到了提高，但是同时也增加了凹部与面料的接触几率，吸汗后有可能出现面料黏附肌肤的问题。因此，本发明优选每个凹部单元的纵、横向中至少有一个方向由3～10个线圈构成，更优选为纵横向均由3～10个线圈构成。
考虑到面料里层的凹凸结构中，凸部单元的高度对面料的干爽效果有一定的影响，因此本发明中，凸部单元的高度优选为0.05～0.40mm，更优选为0.10～0.30mm。当凸部单元的高度小于0.05mm时，面料与皮肤的接触面积有 增加的趋势，有可能出现出汗后面料被汗水浸透而黏贴在肌肤上的现象；一般来说凸部单元的高度越大，越能阻挡面料与皮肤的接触，干爽效果越好，但是，当凸部单元高度大于0.40mm时，穿着时有可能出现刺痒感，穿着舒适性降低。
本发明中，形成面料反面的凸部纤维是非常关键的。主要从两方面考虑，一方面，如果采用的是如纤维素纤维、尼龙纤维等非聚酯类纤维，由于这些纤维的吸湿性比较优越，面料反面容易吸收大量的水分，部分水分难以及时扩散至表面，有可能会导致反面的保水量增大，穿着舒适度降低，产生闷热感；另一方面，如果采用的是非弹性聚酯类纤维，在编织后加工过程中纱线收缩程度过小，有可能无法获得所需的凸部高度，出现速干效果不明显的现象。因此，本发明面料反面的凸部纤维优选使用聚酯类弹性纤维。
本发明所用聚酯类弹性纤维优选为伸缩复原率(CR值)30～70％的弹性纤维。CR值在此范围内的聚酯类弹性纤维具有良好的卷缩性，由其形成的面料反面凸部高度适宜，即便是大量出汗，面料也不易黏贴皮肤，能始终保持与皮肤接触时的干爽感。CR值更优选为40～60％。
本发明所用聚酯类弹性纤维种类没有特别限定，可以是单组分弹性纤维，也可以是双组分并列型弹性纤维，还可以是高弹假捻加工纱等，优选为聚对苯二甲酸丁二醇酯(PBT)、聚对苯二甲酸丙二醇酯(PTT)、聚对苯二甲酸丁二醇酯/聚对苯二甲酸乙二醇酯(PBT/PET)、聚对苯二甲酸丙二醇酯/聚对苯二甲酸乙二醇酯(PTT/PET)、高粘度PET/低粘度PET。但是考虑到双组分并列型弹性纤维的集束性比单组分弹性纤维要好，更有利于提高面料的抗勾丝性，因此优选使用双组分并列型弹性纤维。另外，弹性纤维的形态没有特别 限定，可以为全牵伸丝FDY或者假捻加工纱DTY。
本发明所用聚酯类弹性纤维的纤度优选为50～200旦尼尔(D)，更优选60～80旦尼尔(D)，以保证面料的克重和柔软的手感。
本发明中，表层的纱线、里层凹部的纱线以及连接纱线所用纤维原料可以相同也可以不相同，没有特别限定。纤维原料不相同时可以是纤维素纤维如棉、粘胶等，也可以是合成纤维如非弹性普通聚酯纤维、尼龙纤维等，还可以是蛋白质纤维如羊毛、蚕丝等。
为赋予面料优良的弹性，本发明中还可以选用氨纶裸丝进行混编。氨纶裸丝的纤度优选为20～70D。氨纶纤度越大，面料收缩性越大，面料也越厚实。为了保证面料的轻量性，本发明中氨纶裸丝的纤度更优选为20～40D。
本发明的针织面料，里层的保水率优选为10％以下，更优选为5％以下。表里保水率比优选为3.0以上，更优选为3.0～40.0。表里保水率比(比值)越大，且里面的保水率越小，面料的干爽性越好。即使在大量出汗的情况下，汗液也可以迅速地被吸收传递并及时扩散到表面，与肌肤接触的面能始终保持干爽感，不会影响持续穿着的舒适性。
下面用实施例及比较例对本发明作进一步说明。其中，实施例中的各特性按下面的方法测试并求得。
(1)面料里层的凹凸结构的凸部高度
首先，按照面料的编织纹路剪取1.0cm*0.5cm的样品，并将样品黏贴在凸形样品台中(面料的纵向垂直于凸形样品台的表面)；
其次，使用KEYENCE(基恩士)VHX-2000C显微镜观察所制样品的横截面。具体为：将显微镜倍率调至150倍，对观察处进行深度合成并3D显示，接着 选一条直线a相切于相邻两个凹部的表面，然后再选取另外一条直线b平行于上述的直线a，并相切于相邻的两个凸部，量取ab两条直线的间距h，即为凸部的高度；
按照此方法分别对样布的10处进行测量，去除最大的两个数值和最小的两个数值，得到中间的6个数值，计算其平均值，所得平均值为面料里层凹凸结构中的凸部高度。
(2)里层保水率及表里保水率比
①从面料中剪取10cm*10cm的样布3块，并取同样大小的滤纸6块，取同样大小的有机玻璃1块。在温度20℃、湿度65％的环境下，称取有机玻璃(W0)和样布的重量(W1)(保留小数点后三位)；
②用注射器量取2毫升的蒸馏水置于有机玻璃上，并将样布迅速置于水上，放置1分钟后，称取吸水后样布的重量(W2)(保留小数点后三位)；
③称量测试后有机玻璃和剩余蒸馏水的重量(W3)(保留小数点后三位)；
④称量吸水前两片滤纸的重量(w1、w3)(保留小数点后三位)；
⑤将吸水后的样布放在此两片滤纸的中间，并在此上面放置500克的重物，放置1分钟后，直接测量表面滤纸和里面滤纸的重量(w2、w4)(保留小数点后三位)；
⑥通过以下公式计算出表里保水率比(保留小数点后一位)，
表层保水率(％)＝(w2-w1)/(W2-W1)×100
里层保水率(％)＝(w4-w3)/(W2-W1)×100
表里保水率比＝表面保水率(％)/里面保水率(％)
WO：吸水前有机玻璃的重量(g)
W1：吸水前的样布的重量(g)
W2：吸水后的样布的重量(g)
W3：吸水后有机玻璃和残留蒸馏水的重量(g)
w1：吸水前表面滤纸的重量(g)
w2：吸水后表面滤纸的重量(g)
w3：吸水前里面的滤纸的重量(g)
w4：吸水后里面的滤纸的重量(g)。
(3)伸缩复原率CR值
a.首先将待测试的纱线在标准大气压下调湿12小时；
b.使用缕纱测长仪，取10米长待测试的纱线(10圈*1米/圈)，将纱头和纱尾打结，并用彩色记号线线拴在绞纱上用于标记，悬挂在试验架上；
c.将丝绞放置在标准大气条件中，进行热处理前平衡12小时以上；
d.将恒温水槽中加入一定量的软水，确保试样能完全浸没和不能碰水槽壁，并将水槽温度设定为90℃。将试样对折再对折，松弛状态下用网袋装好，并小心地把装有试样的网袋放入热水中，用玻璃棒进行均匀搅拌，处理时间为20分钟，经过热处理后，用夹子小心地将网袋取出，放入托盘内，等网袋冷却后，将试样松弛地、无张力地挂起来，在标准大气中，进行热处理后平衡；
e.进行初荷重和定荷重的计算：初荷重(g)：0.002g/D×D×2×圈数，定荷重(g)：0.1g/D×D×2×圈数，D：纱线纤度(旦尼尔)；
f.提前一天在测试大量筒内放入软水，并在标准大气压下调温20℃*12小时；
g.将试样挂在挂纱钩上，在另一端彩色记号线上按序挂上初荷重和定荷重，注意张力的调整，放入测试大量筒内的软水中,同时用秒表计时，放置2分钟 后，用标尺读取试样长度L,精确至1毫米(mm)；用钩子取下定荷重，保持挂着初荷重状态，放置2分钟，2分钟后，用标尺读取试样长度L1,精确至1mm；伸缩复原率(即纱线CR值)的计算公式：
Figure PCTCN2017077787-appb-000001
式中：CR：伸缩复原率，％；
L：初荷重加定荷重下试样长度，mm；
L1：去掉定荷重，初荷重下试样长度，mm。
(4)弹性
根据JIS L 1096：2010D法测试弹性伸长率。其中，
弹性伸长率≥60％判断为优，用◎表示；
45％≤弹性伸长率＜60％判断为良，用○表示；
弹性伸长率＜45％判断为一般，用△表示。
(5)抗勾丝性
根据JIS L1058：2011法测试抗勾丝性。其中，
抗勾丝性≥4级判断为优，用◎表示；
3级≤抗勾丝性＜4级判断为良，用○表示；
抗勾丝性＜3级判断为一般，用△表示。
实施例1
在28针双面圆编机上，奇数路选用75D-72f-普通PET DTY(东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)、偶数路选用60D-24f-PBT DTY(CR值为49％、东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)以12路为一个编织循环进行编织制得坯布，再将坯布进行前处理加工(精练剂1g/L、温度95℃)、染色(分散染料、130℃ *30min)、后整理加工(亲水树脂10g/L、中和酸1g/L)，得到本发明的针织面料。具体的各项性能如表1所示。
其中，编织时，第1、3、5路在针盘上的所有针全成圈形成表层，同时在针筒上的第4～6针成圈形成里层的凹部；第7、9、11路在针盘上的所有针全成圈形成表层，同时在针筒上的第1～3针成圈形成下个循环的凹部；第2、4、6路在针筒上的第1～3针成圈、第4～6针浮线形成里层的凸部；第8、10、12路中在针筒上的第1～3针为浮线、第4～6针为成圈形成下个循环的凸部。
实施例2
以20路为一个编织循环进行编织制得坯布，编织时，第1、3、5、7、9路在针盘上的所有针全成圈形成表层，同时在针筒上的第4～6针成圈形成里层的凹部；第11、13、15、17、19路在针盘上所有针全成圈形成表层，在针筒上的第1～3针成圈形成下个循环的凹部；第2、4、6、8、10路在针筒上的第1～10针成圈、第11～15针浮线形成里层的凸部；第12、14、16、18、20路中在针筒上的第1～5针为浮线、第6～15针为成圈形成下个循环的凸部，其余同实施例1，得到本发明的针织面料。具体的各项性能如表1所示。
实施例3
以12路为一个编织循环进行编织制得坯布，编织时，第1、3、5路在针盘上所有针全成圈形成表层，同时在针筒上的第6～8针成圈形成里层的凹部；第7、9、11路在针盘上所有针全成圈形成表层，在针筒上的第1～3针成圈形成下个循环的凹部；第2、4、6路在针筒上的第1～5针成圈、第6～8针浮线形成里层的凸部；第8、10、12路中在针筒上的第1～3针为浮线、第4～ 8针为成圈形成下个循环的凸部。其余同实施例1，得到本发明的针织面料。具体的各项性能如表1所示。
实施例4
奇数路选用60S棉短纤纱(江苏无锡第一棉纺厂制)、偶数路选用75D-48f-PBT/PET DTY(CR值为41％、东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)以20路为一个编织循环进行编织制得坯布，编织时，第1、3、5、7、9路在针盘上所有针全成圈形成表层，同时在针筒上的第6～9针成圈形成里层的凹部；第11、13、15、17、19路在针盘上所有针全成圈形成表层，在针筒上的第1～4针成圈形成下个循环的凹部；第2、4、6、8、10路在针筒上的第1～5针成圈、第6～9针浮线形成里层的凸部；第12、14、16、18、20路中在针筒上的第1～4针为浮线、第5～9针为成圈形成下个循环的凸部，其余同实施例1，得到本发明的针织面料。具体的各项性能如表1所示。
实施例5
奇数路选用40D-24f-尼龙FDY(东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)、偶数路选用50D-24f-PTT DTY(CR值为31％、东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)以20路一个编织循环进行编织制得坯布，编织时，第1、3、5、7、9路在针盘上所有针全成圈形成表层，同时在针筒上的第6～8针成圈形成里层的凹部；第11、13、15、17、19路在针盘上所有针全成圈形成表层，在针筒上的第1～3针成圈形成下个循环的凹部；第2、4、6、8、10路在针筒上的第1～5针成圈、第6～8针浮线形成里层的凸部；第12、14、16、18、20路中在针筒上的第1～3针为浮线、第4～8针为成圈形成下个循环的凸部，其余同实施例1，得到本发明的针织面料。具体的各项性能如表1所示。
实施例6
奇数路选用60S涤纶/黏胶混纺短纤纱(江苏无锡第一棉纺厂制)、偶数路选用50D-24f-PTT/PET FDY(CR值为40％、东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)以16路一个编织循环进行编织制得坯布，编织时，第1、3、5、7路在针盘上所有针全成圈形成表层，同时在针筒上的第7～10针成圈形成里层的凹部；第9、11、13、15路在针盘上所有针全成圈形成表层，在针筒上的第1～4针成圈形成下个循环的凹部；第2、4、6、8路在针筒上的第1～6针成圈、第7～10针浮线形成里层的凸部；第10、12、14、16路中在针筒上的第1～4针为浮线、第5～10针为成圈形成下个循环的凸部，其余同实施例1，得到本发明的针织面料。具体的各项性能如表1所示。
实施例7
偶数路选用60D-24f-PBT DTY(CR值为35％、东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)，其余同实施例3，得到本发明的针织面料。具体的各项性能如表1所示。
实施例8
偶数路选用60D-36f-普通PET DTY(CR值为20％、东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)，其余同实施例3，得到本发明的针织面料。具体的各项性能如表1所示。
实施例9
奇数路选用75D-72f-普通PET DTY(东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)和30D氨纶(美国英威达公司)、偶数路选用75D-36f-高弹PET DTY(CR值为30％、东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)，其余同实施例3，得到本发明 的针织面料。具体的各项性能如表1所示。
实施例10
奇数路选用75D-72f-普通PET DTY(东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)、偶数路选用75D-48f-PBT/PET DTY(CR值为41％、东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)，其余同实施例4，得到本发明的针织面料。具体的各项性能如表1所示。
实施例11
奇数路选用75D-72f-普通PET DTY(东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)、偶数路选用50D-24f-PTT DTY(CR值为31％、东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)，其余同实施例5，得到本发明的针织面料。具体的各项性能如表1所示。
实施例12
奇数路选用75D-72f-普通PET DTY(东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)、偶数路选用50D-24f-PTT/PET FDY(CR值为40％、东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)，其余同实施例6，得到本发明的针织面料。具体的各项性能如表1所示。
实施例13
以8路为一个编织循环进行编织制得坯布，编织时，第1、3路在针盘上的所有针全成圈形成表层，同时在针筒上的第4、5针成圈形成里层的凹部；第5、7路在针盘上所有针全成圈形成表层，在针筒上的第1、2针成圈形成下个循环的凹部；第2、4路在针筒上的第1～3针成圈、第4、5针浮线形成里层的凸部；第6、8路中在针筒上的第1、2针为浮线、第3～5针为成圈形成下个循环的凸部，其余同实施例1，得到本发明的针织面料。具体的各项性 能如表1所示。
实施例14
以12路为一个编织循环进行编织制得坯布，编织时，第1、3、5路在针盘上的所有针全成圈形成表层，同时在针筒上的第3～5针成圈形成里层的凹部；第7、9、11路在针盘上所有针全成圈形成表层，在针筒上的第1～3针成圈形成下个循环的凹部；第2、4、6路在针筒上的第1、2针成圈、第3～5针浮线形成里层的凸部；第8、10、12路中在针筒上的第1～3针为浮线、第4、5针为成圈形成下个循环的凸部，其余同实施例1，得到本发明的针织面料。具体的各项性能如表1所示。
实施例15
在前处理加工和染色之间增加中间定型(温度190℃、车速20m/min)，其余同实施例3，得到本发明的针织面料。具体的各项性能如表1所示。
实施例16
偶数路选用30D-24f-PBT DTY(CR值为49％、东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)，其余同实施例3，得到本发明的针织面料。具体的各项性能如表1所示。
实施例17
偶数路选用250D-96f-PBT DTY(CR值为49％、东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)，其余同实施例3，得到本发明的针织面料。具体的各项性能如表1所示。
实施例18
偶数路选用75D-48f-PBT DTY(CR值为41％、东丽合成纤维(南通)有限 公司制)，其余同实施例10，得到本发明的针织面料。具体的各项性能如表1所示。
比较例1
以6路为一个编织循环进行编织制得坯布，其中，编织时，第1、4路选用75D-72f-普通PET DTY(东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)以全成圈方式形成表层，第3、6路选用60D-24f-PBT DTY(CR值为49％、东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)以全成圈方式形成里层，第2、5路选用75D-72f-普通PET DTY(东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)在针盘和针筒上以集圈的方式连接表里两层，其余同实施例1，得到针织面料，具体的各项性能如表1所示。
比较例2
编织时，第1、3、5、7、9路在针盘上所有针都成圈形成表层；第2、4、6路在针筒上的第3针集圈以连接表里两层，且形成里层的网眼；第8、10、12路中在针盘上的第6针集圈以连接表里两层且形成下一个循环的网眼，其余同实施例1，得到针织面料。具体的各项性能如表1所示。
比较例3
编织时，以8路为一个编织循环进行编织，第1、3、5、7路在针盘上的所有针全成圈形成表层，且第1、3路中在针筒上的第3、4针成圈形成里层的凹部，第5、7路中在针筒上的第1、2针成圈，形成下个循环的凹部，第2、4路中在针筒上第1、2针为成圈、第3、4针为浮线形成里层的凸部；第6、8路中在针筒上第1、2针为浮线、第3、4针为成圈形成下个循环的凸部，其余同实施例1，得到针织面料。具体的各项性能如表1所示。
比较例4
编织时，以48路为一个编织循环进行编织，所有奇数路在针盘上全成圈形成表层，且第1～24路中的奇数路在针筒上的第13～21针成圈形成里层的凹部；第25～48路中的奇数路在针筒上的第1～9针成圈形成下个循环的凹部；第1～24路中在针筒上的偶数路的第1～12针为成圈、第13～21针为浮线形成里层的凸部；第25～48路中在针筒上的偶数路第1～9针为浮线、第10～21针为成圈形成下个循环的凸部，其余同实施例1，得到针织面料。具体的各项性能如表1所示。
表1
Figure PCTCN2017077787-appb-000002
上表中，
(1)由实施例3和实施例1可以看出，同等条件下，凸部单元横向为5个线圈的针织面料与凸部单元横向为3个线圈的针织面料相比，前者的凸部高度大于后者，前者的里层保水率低于后者、表里保水率比高于后者，因此前者的吸水速干性优于后者。
(2)由实施例3和实施例7可以看出，同等条件下，凸部为CR值49％的PBT纤维的针织面料与凸部为CR值35％的PBT纤维的针织面料相比，前者的凸部高度大于后者，同时前者的里层保水率低于后者、表里保水率比高于后者，因此前者的吸水速干性优于后者。
(3)由实施例10与实施例4、由实施例11与实施例5、由实施例12与实施例6可以看出，同等条件下，凹部使用疏水性纱线的针织面料与凹部使用亲水性纱线的针织面料相比，两者的凸部高度相当，但前者的里层保水率低于后者、表里保水率比高于后者，因此前者的吸水速干性优于后者。
(4)由实施例3和实施例8可以看出，同等条件下，凸部纤维为PBT的针织面料与凸部纤维为普通PET的针织面料相比，前者的凸部高度大于后者，同时前者的里层保水率低于后者、表里保水率比高于后者，因此前者的吸水速干性优于后者。
(5)实施例1和实施例13、实施例1和实施例14可以看出，同等条件下，凸部单元横向和纵向均为3个线圈的针织面料与凸部单元只有一个方向为3个线圈的针织面料相比，两者的凸部高度相当，但是前者的里层保水率低于后者、表里保水率比高于后者，因此前者的吸水速干性优于后者。
(6)由实施例3和实施例15可以看出，同等条件下，凸部高度为0.40mm的针织面料与凸部高度为0.30mm的针织面料相比，前者的里层保水率低于后者、表里保水率比高于后者，因此前者的吸水速干性优于后者。
(7)由实施例3和实施例16可以看出，同等条件下，凸部为纤度60D的PBT纤维的针织面料与凸部为纤度30D的PBT纤维的针织面料相比，前者的凸部高度大于后者，同时前者的里层保水率低于后者、表里保水率比高于后者，因此前者的吸水速干性优于后者；而且前者的抗勾丝性也优于后者。
(8)实施例3和实施例17可以看出，同等条件下，凸部为纤度60D的PBT纤维的针织面料与凸部为纤度250D的PBT纤维的针织面料相比，前者的凸部高度大于后者，同时前者的里层保水率低于后者、表里保水率比高于后者，因此前者的吸水速干性优于后者；而且前者的弹性性能优于后者。
(9)由实施例10与实施例18可以看出，同等条件下，凸部纤维使用PBT/PET的面料与使用PBT的面料相比，前者的凸部高度略小于后者，同时前者的里层保水率稍高于后者，表里保水率比稍低于后者，因此前者的吸水速干性稍弱于后者；但前者的抗勾丝性能优于后者。
(10)由比较例1与实施例1可以看出，同等条件下，全集圈的连接方式形成的针织面料与全成圈的连接方式形成的针织面料相比，前者未形成凹凸结构，同时前者的里层保水率高于后者、表里保水率比远低于后者，因此前者的吸水速干性远不及后者。
(11)由比较例2与实施例1可以看出，同等条件下，表层成圈、里层集圈的连接方式形成的针织面料与全成圈的连接方式形成的针织面料相比，前者未形成凹凸结构，同时前者的里层保水率高于后者、表里保水率比远低于后者，因此前者的吸水速干性远不及后者。(12)由比较例3与实施例1可以看出，同等条件下，凸部单元横纵向均为2个线圈的针织面料与凸部单元横纵向均为3个线圈的针织面料相比，两者的凸部高度相当，但前者的里层保水率高于后者、表里保水率比远低于后者，因此前者的吸水速干性远不及后者。
(13)由比较例4与实施例1可以看出，同等条件下，凸部单元横纵向均为12个线圈的针织面料与凸部单元横纵向均为3个线圈的针织面料相比，前者凸部高度大于后者，但前者的里层保水率高于后者、表里保水率比远低于后者，因此前者的吸水速干性远不及后者。

Claims (7)

  1. 一种双面针织面料，其特征是：所述双面针织面料包括表层和里层，其中表层和里层通过成圈方式连接，所述里层具有凹凸结构，且所述凹凸结构中，每个凸部单元的纵、横向中至少有一个方向由3～10个线圈构成。
  2. 根据权利要求1所述的双面针织面料，其特征是：所述凹凸结构中，凸部单元的高度为0.05～0.40mm。
  3. 根据权利要求1或2所述的双面针织面料，其特征是：所述凹凸结构中，形成凸部单元的纤维为聚酯类弹性纤维。
  4. 根据权利要求3所述的双面针织面料，其特征是：所述聚酯类弹性纤维为并列型复合纤维。
  5. 根据权利要求3所述的双面针织面料，其特征是：所述聚酯类弹性纤维的纤度为50～200旦尼尔。
  6. 根据权利要求1或2所述的双面针织面料，其特征是：所述双面针织面料中还含有氨纶裸丝。
  7. 根据权利要求1或2所述的双面针织面料，其特征是：所述双面针织面料的表里保水率比为3.0以上。
PCT/CN2017/077787 2016-03-24 2017-03-23 一种双面针织面料 Ceased WO2017162183A1 (zh)

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