WO2022218162A1 - 可自由裁剪的经编面料及其用途 - Google Patents

可自由裁剪的经编面料及其用途 Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2022218162A1
WO2022218162A1 PCT/CN2022/084335 CN2022084335W WO2022218162A1 WO 2022218162 A1 WO2022218162 A1 WO 2022218162A1 CN 2022084335 W CN2022084335 W CN 2022084335W WO 2022218162 A1 WO2022218162 A1 WO 2022218162A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
warp
knitted fabric
fabric
yarns
yarn
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/CN2022/084335
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English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
林佳濛
李红娟
张晴
耿莲如
瞿文琳
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Toray Fibers and Textiles Research Laboratories China Co Ltd
Toray Industries HK Ltd
Original Assignee
Toray Fibers and Textiles Research Laboratories China Co Ltd
Toray Industries HK Ltd
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Toray Fibers and Textiles Research Laboratories China Co Ltd, Toray Industries HK Ltd filed Critical Toray Fibers and Textiles Research Laboratories China Co Ltd
Priority to EP22787389.0A priority Critical patent/EP4324969A4/en
Priority to US18/286,610 priority patent/US12516455B2/en
Priority to CN202280022537.0A priority patent/CN117222787B/zh
Priority to JP2023562542A priority patent/JP7675843B2/ja
Publication of WO2022218162A1 publication Critical patent/WO2022218162A1/zh
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/14—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
    • D04B21/18—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes incorporating elastic threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01F—CHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
    • D01F8/00—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof
    • D01F8/04—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers
    • D01F8/14—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers with at least one polyester as constituent
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/14—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
    • D04B21/16—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes incorporating synthetic threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G1/00—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
    • D02G1/02—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist
    • D02G1/0206—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist by false-twisting
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/06—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/20—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting articles of particular configuration
    • D04B21/202—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting articles of particular configuration warp knitted yarns
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a warp-knitted fabric that can be cut freely and garments made by using the fabric.
  • Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2020-51008 discloses a warp knitted fabric with free cutting properties, and specifically discloses a crimping synthesis with a stretchability of 20% to 150% and a recovery rate of stretchability of 15% to 100%.
  • the fibers are woven on two or more bars, the yarns of the front and rear combs are looped on all the stitches, and the extension lines of the loops formed by the front and rear yarns are in the same direction on the same line, and the front
  • the ratio of the telescopic elongation of the carded yarn to the telescopic elongation of the back-combed yarn is 0.1 to 1.1.
  • the resulting fabric does not use spandex, it still has suitable elongation and stretchability, and when cutting, the edges of the fabric are It is not easy to fall apart, but this fabric is easy to curl laterally after cutting, and it is difficult to sew.
  • Chinese patent document CN202744760U discloses a fabric that is not easy to curl and prevent detachment, and specifically discloses that the fabric body includes two strands of yarn interwoven by warp knitting technology, and the two strands of yarn include raw materials: The first yarn of 20D spandex yarn, and the second yarn of which the raw material is full-dull 20D/17F nylon yarn, the first yarn and the second yarn are both warp flat weave structure, which can effectively avoid During the cutting process, the phenomenon of hemming and detachment occurs, but due to the strong elastic force of spandex, the density of the fabric will increase, the gram weight will increase, and the wearing comfort will become worse. In addition, since spandex will be embrittled by light and sweat, the durability of the fabric is not good.
  • the object of the present invention is to provide a free-cutting warp knitted fabric with excellent washing durability without occurrence of detachment and lateral hemming during cutting and its use.
  • the warp-knitted fabric of the present invention is at least woven from front-carded yarns and rear-carded yarns, and the front-carded yarns and/or the rear-carded yarns have a telescopic elongation of 30% to 120%, and a telescopic recovery rate of 30% to 120%. 15% or more of crimpable synthetic fibers, and the stretched lines of the loops formed by the front-combed yarns and the stretched lines of the loops formed by the back-combed yarns are in opposite directions on the same line.
  • the free-cutting warp knitted fabric of the present invention has proper elongation and stretchability even if spandex is not used, and does not need to be sewn into the edge of the sewing thread, has good washing durability, and the cut fabric has the edge that does not fall off. It has the characteristics of being loose and not easy to be rolled horizontally, and it is comfortable to wear and can be widely used in the production of various garments.
  • the fabric of the present invention is woven from at least front-carded yarns and rear-carded yarns, and the front-carded yarns and/or rear-carded yarns are rolls with a telescopic elongation rate of 30% to 120% and a telescopic recovery rate of more than 15% Shrinkable synthetic fibers, and the extension lines of the loops formed by the front-combed yarns and the extension lines of the loops formed by the back-combed yarns are in opposite directions on the same line.
  • the fabric of the present invention requires at least the front comb. Yarn and back-combed yarn are woven.
  • the crimpable synthetic fibers are crimped under the humid and hot environment during the dyeing process, so that the stretchability and stretchability of the fabric are improved, and at the same time, the parts other than the overlapped stitches of the front and rear bars are not bound by the stitches , which can be freely shrunk, making the coil arrangement more compact, and even at the edge after cutting, it is difficult for the yarn to escape from it.
  • the stretchable elongation of the crimpable synthetic fiber is 30% to 120%, preferably 40% to 110%. If the stretchable elongation of the crimpable synthetic fiber is less than 30%, after knitting into a loop, the yarn is prone to have voids due to insufficient fluffiness of the yarn. At the same time, the apparent diameter between the overlapping part of the loop and the non-overlapping free part The area difference becomes smaller, and therefore, the loops at the edges after cutting tend to come off. In addition, the higher the stretch elongation of the yarn, the better the bulkiness, the tighter the fabric structure, and the more difficult it is to detach at the edge after cutting, but when the stretch elongation exceeds 120%, the fabric becomes heavy and wearable. reduce.
  • the invention requires that the shrinkage recovery rate of the above-mentioned crimpable synthetic fiber is 15% or more, preferably 25% or more. .
  • the fabric of the present invention selects the warp knitted structure.
  • the warp knitting structure is not particularly limited, as long as the weave is in the opposite direction on the same line, and the loops can be any combination of closed and open loops, but it is preferable that the front-combed yarns form closed loops, and the back-combed yarns form open loops , which can better solve the problem of lateral curling of the fabric.
  • the yarns of the front comb and the rear comb form loops together on all routes, and the loops are relatively tight and not easy to come off. If there is only one comb for the yarn constituting the loop, the binding force of the loop is weak, and because the needle knitting arc becomes longer, the yarn is not bound, and it is easy to come off when cutting.
  • the stretched lines of the loops formed by the front-combed yarns and the stretched lines of the loops formed by the back-combed yarns are in opposite directions on the same line, wherein "column" refers to the same course in the organizational structure.
  • “Oppositely” means that the stretched lines of the stitches formed by the front-combed yarns and the stretched lines of the loops formed by the back-combed yarns are in a state of crossing on the same line. If the stretched loops formed by the front-combed yarns and the stretched loops formed by the back-combed yarns are in the same direction, that is, the stretched loops formed by the front-combed and back-combed yarns are in a parallel or nearly parallel state, the internal stress of the fabric will not be affected. Balanced, the edges are prone to curling, and the problem of lateral curling occurs.
  • the raw material of the crimpable synthetic fiber in the present invention is not particularly limited, and may be a single-component fiber or a bi-component composite fiber, preferably a bi-component composite fiber.
  • polytrimethylene terephthalate monocomponent fibers PTT
  • polybutylene terephthalate monocomponent fibers PBT
  • high viscosity polyethylene terephthalate/low Viscosity polyethylene terephthalate bi-component composite fiber PET/PET
  • PET/PET high viscosity polyethylene terephthalate/low Viscosity polyethylene terephthalate bi-component composite fiber
  • PET polytrimethylene terephthalate/polyethylene terephthalate bi-component composite fiber bi-component composite fiber bi-component composite fiber
  • PBT/PET polyamide 6 (NY6), polyamide 66 (NY66), polyamide 610 (NY610), polyamide 6/polyamide 66 (NY6/NY66), polyamide 66/polyamide
  • the bicomponent composite fibers can be side-by-side or sheath-core.
  • the side-by-side composite fiber has better crimping property, it can better ensure the stability of the structure at the cutting edge, and improve the anti-separation property, so it is more preferable.
  • the ratio of the stretch elongation of the front carded yarn to the stretched elongation of the rear carded yarn exceeds 1.1, not only the elongation of the fabric tends to decrease, but also the occurrence of curling tends to increase. If the ratio of the two stretch elongations is less than 0.1, the difference in elasticity between the front-carded yarns and the back-carded yarns is relatively large, and the cloth surface may have wrinkling problems caused by unbalanced stress.
  • the preferred The ratio of the telescopic elongation of the front carded yarn/the telescopic elongation of the rear carded yarn is 0.1 or more and 1.1 or less, and more preferably 0.2 or more and 1.0 or less.
  • the front comb is a warp flat weave
  • the rear comb is a warp flat or a warp weave
  • the front comb is a warp flat weave
  • the rear comb is a warp weave.
  • the front comb adopts a warp-flat weave, which makes the fabric easier to stretch, and when the front comb adopts 2-needle traverse, the yarns on each needle are overlapped, the tearing strength of the fabric is more stable, and the hand feel is softer.
  • the back card adopts a warp weave, which can form a stable ground weave with less yarn. If the back card adopts a 2-needle traverse warp flat weave, the fabric tends to thicken.
  • the vertical density (the number of wales in the vertical direction) of the fabric is 60 to 120 pieces/inch
  • the horizontal density (the number of wales in the horizontal direction) is 50 to 80 pieces/inch. If the vertical density and horizontal density are not within the above range, due to the longer thread length, the unbound part of the yarn at the cutting edge will increase, and it will be easier to get rid of the loop. In contrast, the higher the density of the fabric, the more difficult it is to separate the section of the cutting edge, and the fabric will become heavier accordingly.
  • the vertical density is 80 to 100 pieces/inch
  • the horizontal density is 60 to 70 pieces/inch.
  • the grammage of the fabric of the present invention is 80-150 g/m 2 .
  • the fabric tends to thicken, which may affect the wearing comfort.
  • edge treatment can improve the release property, it will make the edge thicker and affect the wearing comfort. Used directly as part or all of the garment.
  • test method of each parameter involved in the present invention is as follows:
  • the lateral direction (90°) and the diagonal direction (45°) of the forward knitting direction and the reverse knitting direction are judged. And take the average of the judgment values of the lateral (90°) and oblique (45°) directions for evaluation. Five cuts on a swatch were evaluated and averaged.
  • Hemming degree (%) (25-L1)/25 ⁇ 100%.
  • the 33dtex/24f side-by-side PBT/PET false-twisted yarn was replaced with a 60dtex/24f PBT false-twisted yarn (the stretch elongation was 72%, and the stretch recovery was 22%), and the rest were the same as in Example 1.
  • the warp knitted fabrics of the invention, the specific parameters are shown in Table 1.
  • the back carded yarn is replaced with the PBT false twisted yarn of 44dtex/24f (the telescopic elongation rate is 72%, the telescopic recovery rate is 22%), and the rest are the same as in Example 1, and the warp knitted fabric of the present invention is obtained, and the specific parameters are shown in Table 1.
  • the rear comb is adjusted to warp pile structure, and all the other are the same as in Example 1 to obtain the warp knitted fabric of the present invention, and the specific parameters are shown in Table 1.
  • the vertical density of the grey fabric is 33 pieces/inch, and the horizontal density is 29 pieces/inch.
  • Example 1 the warp knitted fabric of the present invention is obtained, and the specific parameters are shown in Table 1.
  • the 33dtex/24f side-by-side PBT/PET false-twisted yarn was replaced with a 50dtex/36f PET high-elastic false-twisted yarn (stretch elongation 48%, stretch recovery 29%), and the longitudinal density of the grey fabric was 45 / inch, the horizontal density is 40 / inch, and the rest are the same as in Example 1, to obtain the warp knitted fabric of the present invention, and the specific parameters are shown in Table 1.
  • the 33dtex/24f side-by-side PBT/PET false-twisted yarn was replaced with a 50dtex/48f side-by-side PTT/PET false twisted yarn (stretch elongation 102%, stretch recovery 93%), and the grey fabric density was adjusted to The vertical density is 78/inch, the horizontal density is 66/inch, and the rest are the same as in Example 1, to obtain the warp knitted fabric of the present invention.
  • the back-carded yarn was replaced with a 50dtex/36f common PET high-elastic false-twisted yarn (stretch elongation 48%, stretch recovery 29%), and the density of the grey fabric was adjusted to 56 pieces/inch in longitudinal density and 45 in transverse density. Pieces/inch, the rest are the same as in Example 1, to obtain the warp knitted fabric of the present invention, and the specific parameters are shown in Table 1.
  • the front carded yarn is replaced by the common PET high-elastic false twisted yarn of 40dtex/24f (the telescopic elongation rate is 48%, the telescopic recovery rate is 29%), and the rest are the same as in Example 1, to obtain the warp knitted fabric of the present invention,
  • the specific parameters are shown in Table 1.
  • Garments cut without any edge treatment were made from the warp knitted fabrics of Examples 1-11.
  • the front and rear combs are all made of 33dtex/36f side-by-side PBT/PET false twisted yarn, the front and rear combs are warp-flat weave, and the front and rear bar extension lines are in the same direction. 1.
  • the 33dtex/24f side-by-side PBT/PET false-twisting yarn is replaced with a 50dtex/24f ordinary PET false-twisting yarn (stretch elongation is 25%, stretch recovery is 18%), and the rest are the same as in Example 1, and obtain For warp knitted fabrics, see Table 1 for specific parameters.
  • Example 1 It can be known from Example 1 and Example 2 that under the same conditions, the warp knitted fabric obtained by front and rear combing using PBT/PET yarn is compared with the warp knitting fabric obtained by using PBT yarn for front and rear combing, and the transverse curling of the former is The degree of separation is smaller than that of the latter, and the judgment value of separation is also smaller than that of the latter, that is, the lateral curling and separation resistance of the former are better than the latter.
  • Example 2 It can be seen from Example 1 and Example 3 that under the same conditions, the warp knitted fabric with the ratio of the telescopic elongation ratio of the front and rear carded yarns to 1.2 and the warp knitted fabric with the ratio of the telescopic elongation ratio of the front and rear carded yarns to 1.0 Compared with woven fabrics, the lateral hemming degree of the former is smaller than that of the latter, and the detachment judgment values of the two are equivalent, that is, the lateral hemming of the former is better than that of the latter.
  • Example 3 It can be seen from Example 1 and Example 4 that, under the same conditions, the warp knitted fabric with warp-plain weave for the back comb is compared with the warp-knitted fabric with warp-pile weave for the back comb, and the transverse curling degree of the former is higher than that of the latter. is small, and the detachment judgment value is also smaller than the latter, that is, the former is better than the latter in lateral curling and detachment resistance.
  • Example 1 It can be seen from Example 1 and Example 5 that under the same conditions, the warp-knitted fabrics with a vertical density of 76 pieces/inch and a horizontal density of 55 pieces/inch and a warp-knitted fabric with a vertical density of 52 pieces/inch and a horizontal density of 41 pieces Compared with the warp knitted fabric per inch, the former has a smaller lateral hemming degree than the latter, and the judgment value of detachment is also smaller than that of the latter, that is, the former has better lateral hemming and anti-detachment than the latter.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Multicomponent Fibers (AREA)

Abstract

本发明公开了一种可自由裁剪的经编面料及其用途。该经编面料至少由前梳纱线和后梳纱线编织而成，前梳纱线和/或后梳纱线为伸缩伸长率30％～120％、伸缩回复率15％以上的卷缩性合成纤维，且所述前梳纱线形成的线圈的延展线与后梳纱线形成的线圈的延展线在同行上方向相反。本发明的经编面料，具有适当的伸长性和伸缩性，洗涤耐久性佳，裁剪后面料边缘不脱散、不易横向卷边，穿着舒适性好，可广泛用于制作各种服装。

Description

可自由裁剪的经编面料及其用途 技术领域
本发明涉及一种可自由裁剪的经编面料以及使用该面料所制成的服装。
背景技术
随着生活水平的提高，人们对服装的品质要求也越来越高。在裁剪面料制作服装时，常常需要对裁剪后面料的边缘进行防脱散处理，如拷边等。但是这些处理方式或多或少会影响到皮肤触感，降低穿着舒适性。
为了提高穿着舒适性，人们开发出了无需对边缘进行特别处理的面料。如日本专利文献特开2020-51008号中公开了一种具有自由裁剪性的经编面料，具体公开了利用伸缩伸长率20～150％且伸缩复原率15％～100％的卷缩性合成纤维在2把以上梳栉进行编织，前梳和后梳的纱线在所有的线圈横列上成圈，且前梳纱线和后梳纱线形成的线圈的延展线在同行上方向相同，前梳纱线的伸缩伸长率与后梳纱线的伸缩伸长率之比为0.1～1.1，所得面料虽然没有使用氨纶，但仍具有合适的伸度和伸缩性，而且裁剪时，面料的边缘处不易脱散，但是这种面料裁剪后横向容易卷边，缝制困难。
又如，中国专利文献CN202744760U中公开了一种不易卷边、防脱散面料，具体公开了面料本体包括由经编针织工艺交织而成的两股纱线，所述两股纱线包括原料为20D氨纶纱线的第一纱线，以及 原料为全消光20D/17F锦纶纱线的第二纱线，所述第一纱线和所述第二纱线均为经平组织结构，有效避免在裁剪过程中产生卷边和脱散现象，但由于氨纶有很强的伸缩力，这就会导致面料密度变高，克重变大，穿着舒适性变差。此外，由于氨纶会因光、汗发生脆化，所以面料的耐久性不好。
发明内容
针对以上问题，本发明的目的在于提供一种裁剪时不会发生脱散和横向卷边现象、而且具有优越洗涤耐久性的可自由裁剪的经编面料及其用途。
本发明的技术解决方案是：
本发明的经编面料至少由前梳纱线和后梳纱线编织而成，所述前梳纱线和/或所述后梳纱线为伸缩伸长率30％～120％、伸缩回复率15％以上的卷缩性合成纤维，且所述前梳纱线形成的线圈的延展线与后梳纱线形成的线圈的延展线在同行上方向相反。
本发明的可自由裁剪的经编面料，即便没有使用氨纶也具有适当的伸长性和伸缩性，并且不需要在边缘缝入缝纫线，洗涤耐久性佳，而且裁剪后的面料具有边缘不脱散、不易横向卷边的特点，穿着舒适性好，可广泛用于制作各种服装。
具体实施方式
本发明的面料，至少由前梳纱线和后梳纱线编织而成，前梳纱线和/或后梳纱线为伸缩伸长率30％～120％、伸缩回复率15％以上的卷缩性合成纤维，且前梳纱线形成的线圈的延展线与后梳纱线形成的 线圈的延展线在同行上方向相反。
仅使用前梳或后梳进行编织时，虽然面料的伸缩性较好，但却过于单薄，同时，纱线间的束缚力较小，容易脱散，因此，本发明的面料要求至少由前梳纱线和后梳纱线编织而成。
本发明中，上述卷缩性合成纤维在染色加工过程的湿热环境下发生卷缩，面料的伸缩性和伸缩回复性得以提升，同时，前后两梳栉的线圈重叠处以外的部分不受线圈束缚，可以自由地进行收缩，使得线圈排列更加紧密，即便是裁剪后的边缘处，纱线也很难从中脱散出来。
上述卷缩性合成纤维的伸缩伸长率为30％～120％，优选为40％～110％。如果卷缩性合成纤维的伸缩伸长率小于30％的话，编织成圈后，由于纱线蓬松感不足，面料上容易出现空隙，同时，线圈重叠部分与非重叠的自由部分之间的外观直径面积差变小，因此，裁剪后边缘处的线圈容易脱散。此外，纱线的伸缩伸长率越高，蓬松性越好，面料结构越紧密，裁剪后的边缘处越难脱散，但当伸缩伸长率超过120％时，面料变得厚重，服用性能降低。
为了保证面料的回复性，使其具有适当的贴肤感，同时确保裁剪后单丝的集束性，本发明中要求上述卷缩性合成纤维的伸缩复原率为15％以上，优选为25％以上。
本发明中如果选用圆编组织的话，虽然面料的伸缩性会提升，但因为线圈全部是打开的状态，组织较松散，裁剪处的纱线容易脱散，也容易发生卷边。而选用机织物组织的话，虽然不会发生面料卷边的问题，但是由于各纱线没有相互缠绕在一起，所以裁剪处的纱线容易 脱散，而且面料缺乏伸缩性。因此，本发明的面料选用经编组织。本发明中经编组织没有特别限定，只要在同行上组织为相反方向即可，线圈可以是闭口、开口的任意组合，但最好是前梳纱线形成闭口线圈，后梳纱线形成开口线圈，这样可以更好地解决面料横向的卷边问题。
本发明中，前梳和后梳的纱线在所有的路线上共同成圈，线圈较为紧固，不容易脱散。如果构成线圈的纱线只有1把梳的话，线圈的束缚力较弱，并且由于针编弧变长，纱线不受束缚，在裁剪时容易脱散。本发明中前梳纱线形成的线圈的延展线与后梳纱线形成的线圈的延展线在同行上方向相反，其中“同行”是指，组织结构上的同一横列。“相反”是指，前梳纱线形成的线圈的延展线和后梳纱线形成的线圈延展线在同行上呈交叉状态。如果前梳纱线形成的线圈延展线与后梳纱线形成的线圈延展线在同行上方向相同，即前梳和后梳纱线形成的线圈延展线呈平行或近似平行状态，面料内部应力不均衡，边缘容易卷曲，出现横向卷边的问题。
本发明中的卷缩性合成纤维其原料没有特别限定，可以是单组份纤维，也可以是双组份复合纤维，优选双组份复合纤维。具体可列举的是聚对苯二甲酸丙二醇酯单组份纤维(PTT)、聚对苯二甲酸丁二醇酯单组份纤维(PBT)、高粘度聚对苯二甲酸乙二醇酯/低粘度聚对苯二甲酸乙二醇酯双组份复合纤维(PET/PET)、聚对苯二甲酸丙二醇酯/聚对苯二甲酸乙二醇酯双组份复合纤维双组份复合纤维(PTT/PET)、聚对苯二甲酸丁二醇酯/聚对苯二甲酸乙二醇酯双组份复合纤维(PBT/PET)、聚酰胺6(NY6)、聚酰胺66(NY66)、聚酰胺 610(NY610)、聚酰胺6/聚酰胺66(NY6/NY66)、聚酰胺66/聚酰胺610(NY66/NY610)等等。其中，双组份复合纤维可以是并列型或皮芯型。考虑到并列型复合纤维具有较好的卷缩性，更能保证裁剪边缘处结构的稳定性，提高防脱散性，因此，作为更优选。
本发明中，前梳纱线的伸缩伸长率与后梳纱线的伸缩伸长率之比超过1.1的话，不但面料的伸长性有下降的趋势，而且卷边发生率有增加的趋势。而两者伸缩伸长率之比小于0.1的话，前梳纱线与后梳纱线之间弹性相差较大，布面可能出现因应力不均衡引起的起皱问题等，因此，本发明中优选前梳纱线伸缩伸长率/后梳纱线伸缩伸长率之比在0.1以上1.1以下，更优选在0.2以上1.0以下。
本发明中，优选前梳为经平组织，后梳为经平或经绒组织；更优选前梳为经平组织，后梳为经绒组织。前梳采用经平组织，面料更容易拉伸，而且当前梳采用2针横移时，每根针上的纱线重叠在一起，面料的撕裂强力更加稳定，手感也更加柔软。另外，后梳采用经绒组织，可以以较少的纱线形成稳定的地组织。如果后梳采用2针横移的经平组织的话，面料有增厚的趋势。
本发明中，面料的纵密(纵向上线圈横列数)为60～120个/英寸、横密(横向上线圈纵行数)为50～80个/英寸。如果纵密和横密不在上述范围之内的话，由于线长变长，裁剪边缘处纱线不受束缚的部分增多，更容易脱圈。与之相对，面料的密度越高，裁剪边缘的断面越难脱开，相应地面料会变得厚重。作为优选，纵密为80～100个/英寸，横密为60～70个/英寸。
作为优选，本发明面料的克重为80～150g/m 2。当面料的克重超过150g/m 2时，面料有增厚的趋势，有可能会影响到穿着舒适性。
考虑到边缘处理虽然可以提高脱散性，但同时会使得边缘变厚，影响穿着舒适性等，优选利用本发明的面料制作服装时，在该面料边缘被裁剪的状态下，不进行边缘处理而直接作为服装的一部分或全部使用。
以下结合实施例和比较例对本发明做进一步说明。
本发明所涉及的各参数的测试方法如下：
(1)前梳/后梳纱线的伸缩伸长率、伸缩回复率
根据JIS L 1013：2010 A法测定。
(2)面料的伸长率、伸长回复率
根据JIS L 1096：2010 D法(定负荷)测定，负荷为490.4cN。
(3)克重
根据JIS L 1096：2010法测定。
(4)纵密、横密
利用照布镜(常州德普纺织科技有限公司，型号Y511C)观察布面，分别读出面料1英寸内纵向方向的线圈个数(纵密)和横向方向的线圈个数(横密)。
(5)裁剪后面料的脱散性
从面料中剪取纵向宽5.5cm*横向长42cm的测试样布，横向在逆编织方向一侧斜45°剪裁出2个3cm的切口，在顺编织方向一侧斜45°剪裁出3个3cm的切口，缝合样布纵向的左右两端，根据JIS L 0217  103：1995法洗涤后，脱水、干燥，对面料切口部位进行损伤评价。切口部位的损伤根据切口部位纤维的脱出、开裂处的数量和长度进行评价。按照以下10个等级进行外观损伤评价。7以下合格，8以上不合格。对顺编织方向和逆编织方向的横向(90°)、斜向(45°)进行判定。并取对横向(90°)和斜向(45°)的判定值取平均进行评价。对一块样布上的5个切口进行评价取平均值。
<评价标准>
10：脱散只有1处，且长度超过2mm
9：脱散只有1处，且长度1～2mm
8：长度在0.8mm以上不足1mm的脱散有10处以上
7：长度在0.8mm以上不足1mm的脱散有7～9处
6：长度在0.8mm以上不足1mm的脱散有4～6处
5：长度在0.8mm以上不足1mm的脱散有3处以下
4：脱散只有1处，且长度在0.6mm以上但不足0.8mm
3：脱散只有1处，且长度在0.3mm以上但不足0.6mm
2：脱散只有1处，且长度小于0.3mm
1：完全没有脱散。
(6)裁剪后面料的卷边度
从面料中剪取宽25mm*长160mm作为测试样布3块。取其中1块参考JIS L1096：2010 H-2法，使用蒸汽对平坦放置的样布进行15秒的处理，期间不进行任何的吸气操作，然后将处理后的样布平行放置在平坦的地方，从正上方照射光时，测量卷起来部位的最小的投影宽度 L1(mm)，用以下计算公式计算横向卷边度(％)：
卷边度(％)＝(25-L1)/25×100％。
按照同样的方法测量并计算出余下两块的横向卷边度，取平均值作为本发明裁剪后面料的卷边度。
实施例1
在E28卡尔迈耶经编机上，前梳与后梳均选用33dtex/24f的并列型PBT/PET假捻加工纱(伸缩伸长率为87％、伸缩回复率为25％)，前后梳均为经平组织、同一行上方向相反，编织得到纵密为56个/英寸、横密为43个/英寸的坯布，坯布经过预热处理(160℃×1min)→精练(精练剂2g/L)→染色(分散染料用量3％o.w.f，130℃×30min)→柔软树脂加工(硅油类)→定型(160℃×1min)，得到本发明的经编面料。具体参数见表1。
实施例2
将33dtex/24f的并列型PBT/PET假捻加工纱替换为60dtex/24f的PBT假捻加工纱(伸缩伸长率为72％、伸缩回复率为22％)，其余同实施例1，得到本发明的经编面料，具体参数见表1。
实施例3
将后梳纱线替换为44dtex/24f的PBT假捻加工纱(伸缩伸长率为72％、伸缩回复率为22％)，其余同实施例1，得到本发明的经编面料，具体参数见表1。
实施例4
将后梳调整为经绒组织，其余同实施例1，得到本发明的经编 面料，具体参数见表1。
实施例5
坯布纵密为33个/英寸、横密为29个/英寸，其余同实施例1，得到本发明的经编面料，具体参数见表1。
实施例6
使用三把梳栉进行编织，中间梳使用33dtex/24f的并列型PBT/PET假捻加工纱(伸缩伸长率为87％、伸缩回复率为25％)，组织为经平组织，其余同实施例1，得到本发明的经编面料，具体参数见表1。
实施例7
将33dtex/24f的并列型PBT/PET假捻加工纱替换为50dtex/36f的PET高弹假捻加工纱(伸缩伸长率为48％、伸缩回复率为29％)，坯布纵密为45个/英寸、横密为40个/英寸，其余同实施例1，得到本发明的经编面料，具体参数见表1。
实施例8
将33dtex/24f的并列型PBT/PET假捻加工纱替换为50dtex/48f的并列型PTT/PET假捻加工纱(伸缩伸长率为102％、伸缩回复率为93％)，坯布密度调整为纵密78个/英寸、横密66个/英寸，其余同实施例1，得到本发明的经编面料，具体参数见表1。
实施例9
将后梳纱线替换为50dtex/36f的普通PET高弹假捻加工纱(伸缩伸长率为48％、伸缩回复率为29％)，坯布密度调整为纵密56个/ 英寸、横密45个/英寸，其余同实施例1，得到本发明的经编面料，具体参数见表1。
实施例10
将前梳纱线替换为40dtex/24f的普通PET高弹假捻加工纱(伸缩伸长率为48％、伸缩回复率为29％)，其余同实施例1，得到本发明的经编面料，具体参数见表1。
实施例11
将33dtex/24f的并列型PBT/PET假捻加工纱替换为56dtex/24f的并列型NY6/NY66假捻加工纱(伸缩伸长率为78％、伸缩回复率为45％)，其余同实施例1，得到本发明的经编面料，具体参数见表1。
由实施例1-11的经编面料制得裁剪后不进行任何边缘处理的服装。
比较例1
前后梳均采用33dtex/36f的并列型PBT/PET假捻加工纱，前后梳均为经平组织，且前后梳栉延展线方向相同，其余同实施例1，得到经编面料，具体参数见表1。
比较例2
将33dtex/24f的并列型PBT/PET假捻加工纱替换为50dtex/24f的普通PET假捻加工纱(伸缩伸长率为25％、伸缩回复率为18％)，其余同实施例1，得到经编面料，具体参数见表1。
表1
Figure PCTCN2022084335-appb-000001
根据表1
(1)由实施例1与实施例2可知，同等条件下，前后梳采用PBT/PET纱线得到的经编面料与前后梳采用PBT纱线得到的经编面料相比，前者的横向卷边度比后者小，而且脱散性判定值也比后者小，即前者横向卷边性以及防脱散性均优于后者。
(2)由实施例1与实施例3可知，同等条件下，前后梳纱线的伸缩伸长率之比为1.2的经编面料与前后梳纱线的伸缩伸长率之比为1.0的经编面料相比，前者的横向卷边度比后者小，两者的脱散性判定值相当，即前者横向卷边性优于后者。
(3)由实施例1与实施例4可知，同等条件下，后梳采用经平组织的经编面料与后梳采用经绒组织的经编面料相比，前者的横向卷边度比后者小，而且脱散性判定值也比后者小，即前者横向卷边性以及防脱散性均优于后者。
(4)由实施例1与实施例5可知，同等条件下，纵密为76个/英寸且横密为55个/英寸的经编面料与纵密为52个/英寸且横密为41个/英寸的经编面料相比，前者的横向卷边度比后者小，而且脱散性判定值也比后者小，即前者横向卷边性以及防脱散性均优于后者。
(5)由比较例1与实施例1可知，同等条件下，同行上编织组织方向相同的经编面料与同行上编织组织方向不同的经编面料相比，前者的横向卷边度比较大，脱散性判定值也比较大，即前者横向卷边性以及防脱散性都比较差。
(6)由比较例2与实施例1可知，同等条件下，采用普通PET纱线 (伸缩伸长率为25％、伸缩回复率为18％)得到的经编面料与采用PBT/PET纱线(伸缩伸长率为87％、伸缩回复率为25％)得到的经编面料相比，前者的横向卷边度比较大，脱散性判定值也比较大，即前者横向卷边性以及防脱散性都比较差。

Claims (8)

  1. 一种可自由裁剪的经编面料，至少由前梳纱线和后梳纱线编织而成，其特征是：所述前梳纱线和/或所述后梳纱线为伸缩伸长率30％～120％、伸缩回复率15％以上的卷缩性合成纤维，且所述前梳纱线形成的线圈的延展线与所述后梳纱线形成的线圈的延展线在同行上方向相反。
  2. 根据权利要求1所述可自由裁剪的经编面料，其特征是：所述卷缩性合成纤维为双组份复合纤维。
  3. 根据权利要求2所述可自由裁剪的经编面料，其特征是：所述双组份复合纤维为聚酯类或者聚酰胺类。
  4. 根据权利要求1或2所述可自由裁剪的经编面料，其特征是：所述前梳纱线的伸缩伸长率与所述后梳纱线的伸缩伸长率之比在0.1以上1.1以下。
  5. 根据权利要求1或2所述可自由裁剪的经编面料，其特征是：所述前梳为经平组织，所述后梳为经平或经绒组织。
  6. 根据权利要求1或2所述可自由裁剪的经编面料，其特征是：所述经编面料纵密为60～120个/英寸、横密为50～80个/英寸。
  7. 根据权利要求1或2所述可自由裁剪的经编面料，其特征是：所述经编面料的克重为80～150g/m 2。
  8. 使用权利要求1～7中任一项所述可自由裁剪的经编面料制得的服装，其特征是：所述经编面料在裁剪后无需进行任何边缘处理。
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