BRPI1006099A2 - colorful cosmetic composition and cosmetic process of keratin materials - Google Patents

Abstract

COLORFUL COSMETIC COMPOSITION AND COSMETIC MAKEUP PROCESS OF KERATIN MATERIALS. The present invention is a color cosmetic makeup composition of keratin materials, in particular skin, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i) at least 18% by weight of materials pulverulent dyes, relative to the total weight of the composition, (ii) at least one or more volatile linear fans, in particular with C 7 -C 14.

Description

"COLORFUL COSMETIC COMPOSITION AND COSMETIC PROCESS OF

MAQUILAGE OF KERATINICAL MATTERS "Field of the Invention.

The present invention is directed to a color cosmetic makeup composition of keratin materials, in particular of the skin, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion capable of masking the coloring imperfections of said keratin. These are in particular skin bases or skin correctors.

By colored composition is meant a composition not

white.

Background of the Invention

Achieving a make-up result that camouflages skin imperfections such as hypo- or hyper-pigmented patches or regions generally involves incorporating a high rate of pigments, which often translates into undesirable application properties: the texture of the composition becomes pasty and therefore difficult to spread. The makeup is not homogeneous, different colored regions appear on the skin, making the makeup un aesthetic. In addition, the pasty texture is uncomfortable for the wearer during and after applying the composition to the skin.

Although silicon oils have been able to advance the sensoryity of skin-based products for about twenty years, the realization of such products, which have both covering properties and pleasant application, are often difficult. The making of pigmented emulsions with strong power of

Coverage in particular poses a difficult technical challenge for the formulator. In fact, high covering power and pleasing cosmetic properties are often two antagonistic parameters that are difficult to reconcile.

This state is further aggravated by the fact that the high rate of pigments accentuates the stability problems of the composition during storage over time, and this is even more true of the fact that the composition is in the form of an emulsion. In fact, pigments have a tendency to settle and a high oil supernatant may appear. The composition then has a phase separation and is no longer homogeneous: it does not allow for homogeneous makeup and its appearance becomes particularly unsightly. It is often easy to get an opacifying makeup film

through an anhydrous galenic. This galenic has the disadvantage of not allowing the easy incorporation of the assets used in cosmetics (anti-wrinkle actives, moisturizers, intended for greasy skin, etc.), which are most often solubilized in the aqueous phase of the preparation. Furthermore, skin color products are not appreciated by any type of consumer because of their sometimes fatty or oily character.

There is therefore a need for make-up compositions that effectively camouflage skin color defects (in particular spots and hypo or hyperpigmentary regions) and have a texture that allows for easy application to the skin.

Brief Description of the Invention

The Depositor has revealed that the use of one or more C7-C4 volatile linear alkanes in an oil phase of an oil-in-water emulsion would allow a high pigment content to be incorporated into said emulsions (and even greater than 25% by weight). weight), and conferred to the product obtained improved cosmetic properties in the application (which does not always allow the use of silicone oils). More precisely, the present invention aimed at a makeup composition of keratin materials, in particular the skin, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, effectively and evenly covering skin imperfections, in particular skin defects. skin color while retaining a fluid texture, pleasant to use and leading to good coverage makeup.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The object of the present invention is, according to a first aspect, a colored cosmetic makeup composition of keratin materials, intended in particular to camouflage skin imperfections, in particular skin color defects, in the form of a a water-in-oil emulsion comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

(i) at least 18% by weight of powdery coloring matter relative to the total weight of the composition; (ii) at least one or more volatile linear alkanes, in particular

with C7 -C14.

Said powder colorants used in accordance with the present invention have a size greater than or equal to 100nm.

In particular, said powdery colorants are

Particles having a size ranging from 100 nm to pm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 pm, and more preferably from 250 nm to 1 pm.

Preferably, said powdery coloring matter comprises at least colored (non-white) particles, in particular iron oxides.

Preferably, the pulverulent materials comprise iron oxides and titanium oxides. In particular, the particular volatile linear alkanes with C7 -C14 represent at least 50 wt.%, In particular at least 65 wt.%, In particular at least 80 wt.%, And even 100 wt. to the total weight of the oils in the composition.

According to a particular mode, the composition of the present

The invention comprises at least 20% by weight, in particular at least 25% by weight, and even at least 30% by weight of powdery coloring matter relative to the total weight of said composition.

The composition according to the present invention is in particular a skin base or a skin corrector. The makeup can be applied evenly to the skin of the face, or by little touches to camouflage skin imperfections. This is a skin corrector.

The composition of the present invention generally has a coverage greater than 50, preferably greater than 60 and more preferably greater than 70. In particular, it has a coverage ranging from 70 to 100, in particular from 80 to 100 and more preferably from 90 to 100%. at 100.

Coverage Measure

The supports used for the measurement of coverage according to the present invention are black and white Bioskin plates (Maprecos supplier). The compositions according to the present invention are applied with a 32mg finger-top on a 5cm diameter surface, and then dried for 90 minutes. In particular, the applied thickness is 15μιη.

Reflectance spectra are obtained with a MINOLTA 3700-d spectrocolorimeter (diffuse measurement geometry and D65 / 100 observation, specular component mode excluded) on black and white backgrounds (3 measurements from each application).

Spectra are expressed in colorimetric coordinates in the CIEYxyI931 space for the International Illumination Commission.

The contrast ratio CR1 or coverage is calculated by making the arithmetic average of Y on black background divided by the average value of Y on white background multiplied by 100.

The present invention is also directed to a cosmetic process of

make-up of keratin materials, in particular skin, comprising applying a composition according to the present invention.

In particular, said method is intended to camouflage skin imperfections, in particular skin color defects. The composition according to the present invention is in the form

of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising an aqueous phase dispersed in a liquid grease phase and comprising at least one physiologically acceptable medium.

By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant a medium which is particularly suited for the application of a composition of the present invention to keratin materials, in particular the skin and lips.

The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the carrier upon which the composition is to be applied as well as to the aspect upon which the composition is to be conditioned.

The composition according to the present invention comprises at least 18% by weight of powdery coloring matter relative to the total weight of said composition.

Powder Colorants Powder colorants may be present at all times.

18 to 70% by weight, in particular from 20 to 50% by weight, and in particular from 25 to 35% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In particular, the pulverulent coloring matter comprises at least colored (non-white) particles.

Particular colorants are in particular chosen from pigments, mother-of-pearls, materials with a specific optical effect and mixtures thereof. In particular, they will be pigments.

Pigments

Pigments are white or colored mineral or organic particles insoluble in an aqueous solution for the coloring and / or opacification of the resulting film. In particular, the composition according to the present invention

comprises at least colored particles, in particular iron oxides.

Mineral pigments useful in the present invention include titanium, zirconium or cerium oxides as well as zinc, iron or chromium oxides, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and hydrate. Chrome

Preferably titanium dioxide iron oxide pigments or mixtures thereof are used.

It may also be a pigment having a structure which may be, for example, sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silica type. This pigment is marketed, for example, under the reference COVERLEAF NS or JS by CHEMICALS AND CATALYSTS and has a contrast ratio close to 30.

The coloring matter may further comprise a pigment having a structure which may be, for example, of silica microspheres containing iron oxide. An example of a pigment exhibiting such a structure is that sold by MIYOSHI under the reference PC BALL PC-LL-100 P, and this pigment consists of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide. Among the organic pigments usable in the present invention are carbon black, D&C type pigments, cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum based pyropyrrole diets (DPP). EP-A-542669, EP-A-787730, EP-A-787731 and WO-A-96/08537 are described.

Advantageously, the pigments may be present in a hydrophobic coated form in the emulsion according to the present invention. These are particularly surface treated pigments with a hydrophobic agent to make them compatible with the emulsion grease phase, in particular to have good wettability with the grease phase oils. Thus, these treated pigments are well dispersed in the grease phase.

The hydrophobic treating agent may be chosen from silicones such as methicones, dimethicones, perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metal soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, hydrogenated tallow glutamate aluminum salt, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkyl silanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, hexafluoropropylene polyoxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl groups, amino acid polyethers; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.

N-acylated amino acids may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, cocoyl group. Salts of these compounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, potassium salts. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, alanine.

The term alkyl mentioned in the above-mentioned compounds in particular designates an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.

Hydrophobic treated pigments are in particular described in EP-A-1086683.

Mother of pearls

"Mother of pearls" means colored particles of any

whether or not iris, in particular, produced by certain shell molluscs or synthesized and having a color effect by optical interference.

Mother of pearls can be chosen from pearly pigments such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxide, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic colorant, as well as as bismuth oxychloride-based pearl pigments. They may also be mica particles on the surface of which at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic coloring matter are superposed.

Also mentioned as an example of mother of pearls is natural mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride. Optical Effect Materials

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may also contain at least one material with specific optical effect.

This effect is different from a simple conventional tone effect, that is, unified and stabilized as produced by classical coloring matter, such as monochrome pigments. In the sense of the present invention, "stabilized" means no effect of color variability with the viewing angle or in response to a change in temperature. For example, such a material may be selected from metallic reflective particles, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffracting pigments, thermochromic agents, optical azurising agents, as well as particularly interfering fibers. Of course, these different materials may be combined in order to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, and even a new effect according to the present invention.

Particles with metallic reflection usable herein are in particular chosen from: - particles of at least one metal and / or at least one

metallic derivative,

- particles comprising an organic or mineral substrate, monomatter or multimaterial, at least partially covered by at least one metallic reflective layer comprising at least one

metal and / or at least one metal derivative, and

- mixtures of said particles.

Among the metals which may be present in said particles may be cited for example Ag, Au, Cu, Al1 Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te , If and their mixtures or alloys. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and their mixtures or alloys (for example, bronzes and brass) are preferred metals.

"Metal derivatives" means compounds derived from metals, in particular oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulfides

The goniochromatic coloring agent can be chosen, for example, from interfering multilayer structures and liquid crystal coloring agents.

The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one or more volatile linear alkanes in particular with C7 -C14. Volatile Linear Alkanes

The composition of the present invention may comprise from 5 to 50% by weight of volatile linear alkane (s), in particular from 8 to 40% by weight of volatile linear alkane (s), and more particularly from 10 to 30% by weight of volatile linear alkane (s) in particular with C 7 -C 14 relative to the total weight of said composition.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the present invention may comprise at least 50 wt% of linear volatile alkane (s) relative to the total volatile oil (s) content ) of the composition. In particular, a composition of the present invention may comprise at least 60%, more particularly at least 70%, and more particularly at least 80%, at least 90% or 100% of volatile linear alkane (s). (s) in relation to the total volatile oil (s) content of the composition. A composition of the present invention comprising 100%

of volatile linear alkane (s) to the total volatile oil content comprises a volatile oil phase composed exclusively of volatile linear alkane (s).

By "oil" is meant a non-aqueous, non-water-miscible compound, liquid at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

Hydrocarbon oil means an oil formed essentially of, and even consisting of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxygen, nitrogen atoms, which does not contain a silicon or fluorine atom; It may contain ester, ether, amine, amide groups.

By "one or more volatile linear alkane (s)" shall be understood interchangeably "one or more volatile linear alkane (s)".

A suitable volatile linear alkane for the present invention is liquid at room temperature (about 25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

By "volatile linear alkane" suitable for the present invention is meant a cosmetic linear alkane which can evaporate on contact with the skin in less than one hour at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg, ie 101 325 Pa), liquid at room temperature, which has in particular an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 15 mg / cm2 / min at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg ). Preferably, the appropriate "volatile linear alkanes"

for the present invention they have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 3.5 mg / cm2 / min at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the present invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 1.5 mg / cm2 / min at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

More preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the present invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 0.8 mg / cm2 / min at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 ° C). mm Hg).

Preferably further, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the present invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 0.3 mg / cm2 / min at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 ° C). mm Hg).

Preferably further, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the present invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 0.12 mg / cm2 / min at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 ° C). mm Hg).

The evaporation rate of a volatile alkane according to the present invention (and more generally of a volatile solvent) may in particular be assessed by the protocol described in WO 06/013413, and more particularly by the protocol described below.

g of volatile hydrocarbon solvent are introduced into a crystallizer (diameter: 7 cm) placed on a balance in an enclosure of about 0.3 m3 regulated at temperature (25 ° C) and hygrometry (50% relative humidity). .

The liquid is allowed to evaporate freely without agitation by ventilating with a fan (PAPST-MOTOREN, reference 8550 N, which rotates at 2700 rpm) placed upright above the crystallizer containing volatile hydrocarbon solvent, and the blades are directed to the crystallizer at a distance of 20 cm from the bottom of the crystallizer.

The mass of volatile hydrocarbon solvent remaining in the crystallizer is measured at regular time intervals.

The solvent evaporation profile is then obtained by plotting the amount of evaporated product (in mg / cm2) as a function of time (in minutes).

Then, the evaporation rate corresponding to the tangent at the origin of the obtained curve is calculated. Evaporation rates are expressed as mg of evaporated volatile solvent per surface unit (cm2) and per time unit (minute).

According to a preferred embodiment, the "volatile linear alkanes" which are suitable for the present invention have a non-zero vapor pressure (also called saturating vapor pressure) at room temperature, in particular a vapor pressure ranging from 0.3 Pa to 6000 Pa. Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the present invention have a vapor pressure ranging from 0.3 to 2000 Pa at room temperature (25 ° C). -

Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the present invention have a vapor pressure ranging from 0.3 to 1000 Pa at room temperature (25 ° C).

Even more preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the present invention have a vapor pressure ranging from 0.4 to 600 Pa at room temperature (25 ° C). Preferably, the appropriate "volatile linear alkanes"

for the present invention have vapor pressure ranging from 1 to 200 Pa at room temperature (25 ° C).

Preferably further, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the present invention have a vapor pressure ranging from 3 to 60 Pa at room temperature (25 ° C).

According to one embodiment, a volatile linear alkane suitable for the present invention may have a flash point in the range 30 to 120 ° C, and more particularly 40 to 100 ° C. The flash point is in particular measured according to ISO 3679.

According to one embodiment, an alkane suitable for the present invention may be a volatile linear alkane comprising

at 14 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the present invention comprise from 8 to 14 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the present invention comprise from 9 to 14 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the present invention comprise from 10 to 14 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the present invention comprise from 11 to 14 carbon atoms.

According to an advantageous embodiment, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the present invention have an evaporation rate as defined above ranging from 0.01 to 3.5 mg / cm2 / min at room temperature ( 25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), and comprise from 8 to 14 carbon atoms.

A volatile linear alkane suitable for the present invention may advantageously be of plant origin.

Preferably, the volatile linear alkane or the mixture of volatile linear alkanes present in the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one carbon 14 carbon isotope, in particular the 14C isotope may be present in a 14C / 12C ratio. greater than or equal to 1.10 "16, preferably greater than or equal to 1 χ 10" 15, preferably still greater than or equal to 7.5 χ 10 "14, and more preferably greater than or equal to 1.5 χ 10" 13. Preferably, the 14C / 12C ratio ranges from 6 χ 1Ό "13 to 1.2 χ 10" 12.

The amount of 14 C isotopes in the volatile linear alkane or the mixture of volatile linear alkanes can be determined by methods known to one of ordinary skill in the art such as the Libby counting method, liquid scintillation spectrometry or Accelerator mass spectrometry. Mass Spectrometry).

This alkane can be obtained, directly or in several steps, from a vegetable raw material such as an oil, butter, wax, etc.

As an example of suitable alkanes for the present invention, the alkanes described in Cognis patent applications WO 2007/068371, or WO2008 / 155059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes differing by at least one carbon) may be cited. These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, which are in turn obtained from copra or palm oil.

Examples of suitable linear alkanes for the present invention include n-heptane (C7) 1 n-octane (Ce), n-nonane (C9) 1 n-decane (C0) 1 n-undecane ( Cu), n-dodecane (C 12) 1, n-tridecane (C 13), n-tetradecane (C 14) 1 and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the volatile linear alkane is chosen from n-nonane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the following may be mentioned:

mixtures of n-undecane (Cu) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of Cognis application W02008 / 155059.

Also cited are n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C4) sold by Sasol respectively under the references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, as well as mixtures thereof.

Volatile linear alkane may be used alone.

Alternatively or preferably one may use a mixture of at least two distinct volatile linear alkanes, which differ from each other by a carbon number η of at least 1, in particular which differ from each other by a carbon number of 1 or from 2.

According to a first embodiment, a mixture of at least two distinct volatile linear alkanes having from 10 to 14 carbon atoms and differing by a carbon number of at least 1 will be used. As examples, they may be cited in particular are mixtures of volatile linear alkanes C10 / C11, C11 / C12, or C12 / C13.

According to another embodiment, a mixture of at least two distinct volatile linear alkanes having from 10 to 14 carbon atoms and differing by a carbon number of at least 2 will be used. Examples may be cited. in particular mixtures of volatile linear alkanes C10 / C12, or C12 / C14, for a carbon number η por and the mixture C11 / C13 for a carbon number η odd.

Preferably, a mixture of at least two volatile linear alkanes having from 10 to 14 distinct carbon atoms and differing by a carbon number of at least 2, and in particular a mixture of alkanes, is used. C11 / C13 volatile linear alkanes or a mixture of C12 / C14 volatile linear alkanes.

Other mixtures associating more than 2 volatile linear alkanes according to the present invention, such as, for example, a mixture of at least 3 volatile linear alkanes having from 7 to 14 distinct carbon atoms and differing in number of carbon at least 1 are also part of the present invention, but mixtures of 2 volatile linear alkanes according to the present invention are preferred (binary mixtures), and said 2 volatile linear alkanes preferably represent more than 95% and more preferably more than 99% by weight of the total content of volatile linear alkanes in the mixture.

According to a particular mode of the present invention, in a mixture of volatile linear alkanes, the volatile linear alkane having the lowest carbon number is the majority in the mixture.

According to another mode of the present invention, a volatile linear alkane mixture is used in which the volatile linear alkane having the highest carbon number is the majority in the mixture.

As examples of suitable mixtures for the present invention, the following mixtures may be cited in particular:

- from 50 to 90% by weight, preferably from 55 to 80% by weight, preferably from 60 to 75% by weight of Cn liquid volatile linear alkane with η ranging from 7 to 14 - from 10 to 50% by weight preferably from 20 to 45% by weight, preferably from 24 to 40% by weight, of Cn + x volatile linear linear alkane greater than or equal to 1, preferably x = 1 or x = 2, with n + x comprised between 8 and 14,

to the total weight of the alkanes in said mixture.

In particular, said alkane according to the present invention contains:

- less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight of branched hydrocarbons,

- and / or less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight.

weight of aromatic hydrocarbons,

- and / or less than 2 wt%, preferably less than 1 wt% and preferably less than 0.1 wt% unsaturated hydrocarbons in the mixture.

More particularly, a volatile linear alkane suitable for

The present invention may be used as an n-undecane / n-tridecane mixture.

In particular, a mixture of volatile linear alkanes comprising:

- from 55 to 80% by weight, preferably from 60 to 75% by weight of

volatile linear alkane with Cn (n-undecane)

- from 20 to 45 wt.%, preferably 24 to 40 wt.% linear volatile C1-3 alkane (n-tridecane)

to the total weight of the alkanes in said mixture.

According to a particular embodiment, the mixture of

alkanes is an n-undecane / n-tridecane mixture. In particular such a mixture may be obtained according to example 1 or example 2 of WO 2008/155059. According to another particular embodiment, n-dodecane sold under the reference PARAFOL 12-97 by SASOL is used.

According to another particular embodiment, there is used

• t 1

tetradecane sold under the reference PARAFOL 14-97 by SASOL.

According to a further embodiment, a

mixture of n-dodecane and n-tetradecane.

According to a particular mode of the present invention, the composition may comprise less than 10 wt%, and even less than 5 wt%, and even less than 2 wt%, and even be devoid of cyclic silicon oil.

Galenic

The composition according to the present invention, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, is characterized in particular by an aqueous phase dispersed in a liquid grease phase, generally a surfactant and the presence of at least one thickening agent, if any. increasing the viscosity of said composition.

Water phase

A composition according to the present invention comprises at least one aqueous phase, preferably in a content ranging from 10 to 80%, preferably 25 to 70%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The aqueous phase comprises water and / or at least one water soluble solvent.

The water may be a floral water such as cornflower water and / or a mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or a thermal water.

By "water soluble solvent" is meant herein a water-miscible liquid at room temperature (water miscibility greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure).

The water-soluble solvent (s) suitable for the present invention may be chosen from C-β-β monoalcohols, and in particular with C1.5, in particular ethanol, isopropanol, tert. butanol, n-butanol, polyols as described above, and mixtures thereof. Also particularly suitable for the present invention are ethanol and isopropanol and preferably ethanol.

A composition of the present invention may further comprise at least one salt, for example sodium chloride, magnesium chloride and magnesium sulfate.

A composition of the present invention may comprise from 0.05% to 1.5% in particular from 0.1% to 1.0% and more particularly from 0.15% to 0.8% by weight of salts with respect to total weight of the composition.

The aqueous phase may also comprise any water-soluble or water-dispersible compound compatible with an aqueous phase such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners, surfactants and mixtures thereof.

Liquid Grease Phase

A cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one liquid grease phase containing at least one particular volatile linear C 7 -C 14 alkane as defined above, and optionally at least one additional oil and / or one additional fatty body.

A composition of the present invention may comprise a liquid grease phase in a content ranging from 10 to 90%, in particular from 15 to 60%, and more particularly from 20 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional Oils

A composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one additional oil selected from hydrocarbon, siliconated, or fluorinated volatile and non-volatile oils. The oils may be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

Oil means any fatty body in liquid form at room temperature (20-25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure.

"Volatile oil" means an oil (or non-aqueous medium)

likely to evaporate on contact with the skin in less than an hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa ( 10 "3 to 300 mm Hg), preferably from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).

In addition, volatile oil generally has a boiling point, measured at atmospheric pressure, which ranges from 150 ° C to 260 ° C, and preferably from 170 ° C to 250 ° C.

Advantageously, the grease phase comprises from 5% to 40% by weight, preferably from 10% to 35% by weight, and preferably from 15% to 30% by weight of volatile oil (s) relative to the total weight. of composition.

Hydrocarbon oil means an oil formed essentially of, and even consisting of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxygen, nitrogen atoms, which does not contain a silicon or fluorine atom; It may contain ester, ether, amine, amide groups.

By silicon oil is meant an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and in particular containing Si-O groups. Fluorinated oil means an oil containing at least

a fluorine atom.

ADDITIONAL VOLTAGE OILS

The hydrocarbon volatile oil usable in the present invention may be chosen from hydrocarbon oils having a flash point ranging from 40 ° C to 102 ° C, preferably from 40 ° C to 55 ° C, and preferably from 40 ° C to 50 ° C. ° C.

As hydrocarbon volatile oils having from 7 to 16 carbon atoms, particular mention may be made of C7-C14 volatile linear alkanes, C8-C4 branched alkanes such as C8-C14 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins). isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, C8-C4 branched esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably the hydrocarbon volatile oil is chosen from hydrocarbon volatile oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, in particular isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and is in particular isododecane.

The volatile silicon oil usable in the present invention may be chosen from silicon oils having a flash point ranging from 40 ° C to 102 ° C, preferably a flash point greater than 55 ° C and less than or equal to 95 ° C, and preferably from 65 ° C to 95 ° C.

As silicone volatile oil, linear or cyclic silicon oils having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms may be cited, and such silicones optionally carry alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As an example of siliconized volatile oil, particular mention may be made of octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexylsiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl decanethyl pentane, and their mixtures.

As fluorinated volatile oil, we may cite nonafluoroethoxybutane, nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane, and mixtures thereof.

Additional volatile oil chosen from additional hydrocarbon volatile oils, siliconated volatile oils, fluorinated volatile oils, and mixtures thereof may be present in a content ranging from 0% to 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the oils, in particular from 0% to 15% by weight, and preferably from 0% to 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition. According to a particular mode, the composition does not comprise an additional volatile oil.

The grease phase of the emulsion according to the present invention may further comprise at least one non-volatile oil.

Nonvolatile Oils

Such non-volatile oil or one of its mixtures may be present in a content ranging from 0% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion, and preferably ranging from 0% to 10% by weight. Nonvolatile oil can be chosen from the original oils.

mineral, animal, vegetable or synthetic, carbonated, hydrocarbon and / or silicon, and mixtures thereof, provided that they are compatible with the intended use.

Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils such as paraffin or petroleum jelly, isoeicosan, soybean, perhydrosqualene, sweet almond, alligator, palm, grape seed, sesame, maize, macaw, rapeseed, sunflower, cotton, apricot, castor, avocado, jojoba, olive or cereal germ; esters of lanolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid, stearic acid; fatty esters such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyl-decyl, 2-octyl-decyl palmitate, myristate or 2-octyldodecyl lactate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate, di-isostearyl malate, glycerine tri-isostearate or of diglycerin; higher fatty acids such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid; higher fatty alcohols such as kethanol, stearyl alcohol or oleic alcohol, linoleic or linolenic alcohol, isostearic alcohol or octyl dodecanol.

As siliconized non-volatile oil, polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) may be mentioned, optionally phenylated such as phenyltrimethicones, or optionally substituted by aliphatic and / or aromatic groups, or by functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups; polysiloxanes modified by fatty acids, fatty alcohols or

polyoxyalkylenes, and mixtures thereof.

In particular, the composition may comprise a polydimethylsiloxane oil (PDMS), it should be clear that the weight ratio volatile linear alkanes / PDMS will be greater than or equal to 1.

Preferably, such additional volatile or non-volatile oils represent less than 50 wt%, in particular less than 40 wt%, and even less than 30 wt%, less than 20 wt%, or even less than 10 wt%. by weight or less than 1% by weight of the total weight of the

oils in the composition.

Thus, the weight ratio between volatile linear alkanes with

C7 -C16 and the additional oils will preferably be greater than or equal to 1.

A composition according to the present invention will generally comprise at least one surfactant. Surfactants

Usable surfactants according to the present invention adapted to A / O emulsions are chosen in particular from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic surfactants, used alone or in admixture. Preferably, nonionic surfactants will be used.

Surfactants are generally present in the composition, in a content ranging from 0.5 to 15% by weight, in particular from 1.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

As an example, the silicone surfactant (s) may / may be present in a content ranging from 0.5 to 10 wt.%, In particular from 1 to 5 wt.%. total weight of the composition.

According to another particular embodiment, the non-siliconated surfactant (s) may / may be present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 2 to 8. % by weight in relation to

total weight of the composition.

For A / O emulsions, they may be used in particular

hydrocarbon or silicon surfactants. They may be cited, for example; as surfactants

polyol polyesters such as PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate sold under the reference ARLACEL P 135 by Uniqema, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate sold under the reference DEHYMULS PGPH by Cognis.

They may be cited, for example, as surfactants

alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as Laurildimethicone copolyol sold under the name "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" by Dow Corning and Cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name ABIL EM 90 by Goldschmidt, or the polyglyceryl-4 isostearate / cetyl dimethicone copolyol / hexyl laurate sold under the name ABIL WE 09 by Goldschmidt.

One or more co-emulsifiers may be added thereto. Advantageously, the co-emulsifier may be chosen from the group comprising alkylated polyol esters. As alkylated polyol esters, glycerol and / or sorbitan esters may be cited in particular and, for example, polyglyceryl-3-isostearate marketed under the name LAMEFORM TGI by Cognis1 and polyglycerol-4 isostearate, such as the product marketed under the name Isolan Gl 34 by Goldschmidt, sorbitan isostearate, as the product marketed under the Arlacel 987 designation by ICI1, the sorbitan and glycerol isostearate, as the product marketed under the Arlacel 986 designation 101, and their mixtures.

According to a particular mode, the composition of the present

The invention comprises at least one silicone surfactant chosen from dimethicone copolyols, in particular the polyglyceryl-4 isostearate / cetyl dimethicone copolyol / hexyl laurate mixture sold under the name ABIL WE 09 by Goldschmidt,

The composition according to the present invention

It may also comprise at least one grease phase structuring or gelling agent for increasing the viscosity of said composition.

According to a particular mode of the present invention, the

The composition comprises at least one lipophilic gelling agent.

Lipophilic Gelling Agents A suitable gelling agent for the present invention is advantageously lipophilic. A lipophilic gelling agent may be mineral or organic (in particular polymeric).

The lipophilic gelling agent (s) may be present in the

composition in a content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.25 to 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of said composition. Mineral Gelling Agents

As lipophilic gelling agents may be cited, for example, hydrophobic modified clays such as modified magnesium silicate (RHEOX Bentone gel VS38), hectite modified by distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (CTFA name: Disteardimonium hectorite) marketed as "Bentone 38CE" by RHEOX.

As a mineral lipophilic gelling agent, mention may be made of any modified clays such as hectorites modified by a C10-C22 fatty acid ammonium chloride, such as distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride modified hectorite such as, for example, is marketed under the name Bentone 38V® by ELEMENTIS.

Polymeric Organic Gellants

Polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are, for example, partial or fully cross-linked, elastomeric elastomeric organopolysiloxanes of three-dimensional structure, such as those marketed under the names KSG6®, KSG16® and KSG18® by SHIN-ETSU, Trefil E -505C® and Trefil E-506C® by DOW-CORNING, Gransil SR-CYC®, SR DMF10®, SR-DC556®, SR 5CYC gel®, SR DMF 10 gel® and SR DC 556 gel® by GRANT INDUSTRIES SF 1204® and JK 113® by GENERAL ELECTRIC; ethylcellulose as sold under the name Ethocel® by DOW CHEMICAL; polyamide-type polycondensates resulting from the condensation between a dicarboxylic acid comprising at least 32 carbon atoms and an alkylene diamine and in particular ethylene diamine, wherein the polymer comprises at least one esterified or amidified terminal carboxylic acid group with at least a monoalcohol or a monoamine comprising from 12 to 30 linear and saturated carbon atoms, and in particular stearyl ethylene diamine / dilinoleate copolymers as marketed under the name Uniclear 100 VG® by ARIZONA CHEMICAL; galactomannans having from one to six, and in particular from two to four, ose hydroxyl groups, substituted by a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, such as C1 -C6 alkyl chain alkylated guar gum, and in particular C1 -C3 and mixtures thereof.

As lipophilic gelling agents suitable for the present

Also disclosed are polystyrene / polyalkylene type copolymers, and more particularly sequenced "diblock", "triblock" or "radial" type polystyrene / polyisoprene, polystyrene / polybutadiene type copolymers such as those sold under the designation Luvitol HSB® by BASF of the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-propylene) type such as those marketed under the name Kraton® by KRATON POLYMERS or of the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-butylene) type, the mixtures of triblock and radial copolymers ( starch) in isododecane such as that marketed by PENRECO under the name Versagel® such as the mixture of triblock butylene / ethylene / styrene copolymer and isododecane ethylene / propylene / styrene copolymer (Versagel M 5960).

Among the lipophilic gelling agents which may be used in a cosmetic composition of the present invention may also be mentioned dextrin and fatty acid esters such as dextrin palmitates, in particular such as those marketed under the names Rheopearl TL® or Rheopearl. KL® by CHIBA FLOUR, hydrogenated vegetable oils such as hydrogenated castor oil, fatty alcohols, in particular from C8 to C26, and more particularly from C12 to C22, such as myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or beenyl alcohol.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, a composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one mineral lipophilic gelling agent chosen from hydrophobic modified clays.

Lipophilus Structuring Agents

The grease phase may also comprise at least one lipophilic structuring agent. The lipophilic structuring agent (s) may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 8% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight. relative to the total weight of said composition.

In particular, said lipophilic structuring agent may be chosen from at least one wax, at least one gum and / or at least one pasty fatty body of vegetable, animal, mineral or even synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.

Waxes

Among the solid waxes at room temperature which may be present in the composition according to the present invention are hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricuri wax from Japan, waxes cork or sugar cane fibers, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin waxes, Montana waxes, ozoquerites, polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, hydrogenated oils, fatty esters and concrete glycerides at 25 ° C. Silicone waxes may also be used, among which alkyl, alkoxy and / or polymethylsiloxane esters may be cited. The waxes may be in the form of stable dispersions of colloidal wax particles such as may be prepared according to known methods, such as those from "Microemulsions Theory and Practice", LM Prince Ed., Academic Press (1977), page 21. -32. As liquid wax at room temperature, Jojoba oil may be cited.

Hydrogenated vegetable oils such as hydrogenated castor oil may also be mentioned.

As a lipophilic builder which is equally suitable for the present invention may be mentioned fatty alcohols, in particular C8-C26, and more particularly C12-C22.

According to one embodiment, a suitable fatty alcohol for the present invention may be chosen from myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, beyl alcohol.

As a lipophilic builder which is equally suitable for the present invention may be mentioned fatty acid and glycerol esters such as glyceryl distearate.

The waxes may be present at a rate of from 0.1% to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion, and preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight.

Pasty Fatty Compounds

Pasty fatty compounds may be defined by at least one of the following physicochemical properties:

a viscosity of 0.1 to 40 Pa.s (1 to 400 poises), preferably 0.5 to 25 Pa.s, measured at 40 ° C with a CONTRAVES TV rotary viscometer fitted with an MS-r3 or MS rotor. -r4 at the frequency of 60 Hz,

- a melting point of 25-70 ° C, preferably 25-55 ° C.

The compositions of the present invention may also comprise at least one alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl dimethicone such as, for example, the product sold under the name "Abil wax 2440" by GOLDSCHMIDT.

The composition of the present invention may also comprise at least one filler, either organic or mineral in nature.

Loads

A composition according to the present invention may also comprise at least one filler, of an organic or mineral nature.

By "filler" is meant any colorless or white particles, solid in any form, present in an insoluble form and dispersed in the middle of the composition. Mineral or organic in nature, they give the composition softness, maticity and uniformity of makeup.

The fillers may be present in the emulsion in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total emulsion weight, of

preferably 0.5% to 7%.

The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be lamellar, globular, spherical, fiber or any other intermediate form between such defined forms.

Fillers according to the present invention may or may not be surface coated, and in particular may be surface treated by silicones, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance which favors dispersion and filler compatibility in the composition.

Mineral fillers usable in the compositions according to the present invention include talc, mica, silica, trimethyl siloxysilicate, kaolin, bentone, calcium carbonate and magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, hollow silica microspheres (Maprecos Silica Beads), glass or ceramic microcapsules, silica based fillers such as Aerosil 200, Aerosil 300; Sunsphere H-33, Sunsphere H-51 marketed by Asahi Glass; Chemicelcom marketed by Asahi Chemical; silica and titanium dioxide composites, such as the TSG series sold by Nippon Sheet Glass, and mixtures thereof. Among the organic fillers usable in the compositions according to

®

With the present invention there may be mentioned polyamide (Atochem Nylon Orgasol) -, poly-b-alanine and polyethylene powders; polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon®) powders, lauroyl lysine, starch, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders, hollow polymer microspheres such as EXPANCEL (NOBEL INDUSTRIE), metal soaps derived from carboxylic organic acids containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, Polipore® L 200 (Chemdal Corporation ), silicone resin micropeads (Toshiba Tospearl®, for example), polyurethane powders, in particular cross-linked polyurethane powders comprising a copolymer, are said copolymer comprising hexyl lactone trimethylol as the polymer hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylol hexyl lactone, marketed under the name PLASTIC POWDER D-400® or PLASTIC POWDER D-800® by TOSHIKI, carnauba microcera, such as that sold under the name MicroCare 350® by MICRO POWDERS, synthetic wax microcera, such as that marketed under the name MicroEase 114S® by MICRO POWDERS, microcera consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as marketed under the Micro Care 300® and 310® designations by MICRO POWDERS, microceras consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic wax, such as that marketed under the Micro Care 325® designation by MICRO POWDERS, polyethylene microceras , such as those sold under the designations of Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by MICRO POWDERS; fibers of synthetic or natural, mineral or organic origin. They can be short or long, single or organized for example braided, hollow or full. They may have any shape and in particular of circular or polygonal section (square, hexagonal or octagonal) according to the specific application considered. In particular, their ends are protruded and / or polished to prevent injury. The fibers have a length ranging from 1 μητι to 10 mm, preferably from 0.1 mm to 5 mm and more preferably from 0.3 mm to 3 mm. Its section may be comprised in a circle of diameter ranging from 2 nm to 500 μιτι, preferably ranging from 100 nm to 100 pm and more preferably from 1 pm to 50 pm. As fibers usable in the compositions according to the present invention may be cited rigid fibers such as polyamide (Nylon®) fibers or rigid fibers such as polyimide amide fibers such as those sold with the names KERMEL®, KERMEL TECH® by RHODIA or poly (p-phenylene terephthalamide) (or aramid) in particular sold under the name Kevlar ® by DUPONT DE NEMOURS, and mixtures thereof.

Cosmetic Adjuvants The compositions of the present invention may further contain one or more of the usual cosmetic and dermatological adjuvants, such as moisturizing agents; emollients; hydrophilic or lipophilic actives; free antiradical agents; hijackers; antioxidants; preservatives; alkanising or acidifying agents; Perfumes; hydrophilic gelling agents; film-forming agents, in particular film-forming polymers (for permanency compositions); organic or physical sunscreens, water soluble or fat soluble colorants; and their mixtures. The amounts of these different adjuvants are those classically used in the skin bases.

Of course, one of ordinary skill in the art will take care in choosing the adjuvant (s) added to the composition according to the present invention so that the advantageous properties intrinsically linked to the composition according to the present invention are not, or are not substantially altered. by the considered addition.

Such adjuvants are generally present in the composition having a content ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of said composition.

The present invention is illustrated in the following examples by way of illustration and not limitation of the field of the present invention:

Unless otherwise indicated, the values in the following examples are expressed in% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Examples

Example 1

Cosmetic properties of compositions according to the present

Invention

a) Composition and preparation of the tested formulas

Ingredients Formula A (comparative) Formula B (invention) Formula C (invention) Magnesium sulphate 1.50 1.50 1.50 Modified distearyl dimethyl ammonium (BENTONE 38 VCG from Elementis) 1 1 1 microspheres (vinylidene chloride copolymer / isobutane-expanded acrylonitrile / methyl methacrylate (Expancel EXPANCEL 551 DE 40 D42) 0.60 0.60 0.60 Titanium dioxide 21.20 21.20 21.20 Red iron oxide 0.89 0.89 0 .89 Black Iron Oxide 0.33 0.33 0.33 Yellow Iron Oxide 2.58 2.58 2.58 Acetylated Triestearine Glycol Stearate (United Guardian UNITWIX) 0.30 0.30 0.30 Ingredients Formula A (comparative) Formula B (invention) Formula C (invention) Sodium carboxymethylcellulose 0.50 0.50 0.50 Cyclopentasiloxane 15.30 Cetyl polyglyceryl-4 isostearate PEG / PPG-10/1 hexyl laurate (ABIL WE 09 from Evonik Goldschmidt) 9 9 9 Polydimethylsiloxane (viscosity: 5 CST) (Dow Corning XIAMETER PMX-200 SILICONE FLUID 5CS) 6.60 6.60 Glycerin 5 5 5 La Roehe-Posay water 31.70 31.70 31.70 Ethylhexyl glycerine 0.50 0.50 0.50 Pentylene glycol 3 3 3 Major mixture of n-undecane: n-tridecane in which n- undecane is the majority in the mixture * 15.30 21.90

* as prepared according to W02008 / 155059 The compositions are prepared as follows: Heat the surfactant mixture in a water bath in a becher at 75 ° C. After the mixture is melted (around 65 ° C), place it on a thermal plate (reference 100 ° C) and stirring in the turbine.

Thicken the pigments with a portion of the grease phase, pass 3 three times in the three-roller crusher. Use the rest of the grease phase to thicken the loads.

At 65 ° C, add bentone to the heated surfactant mixture and turbine; Then add the pigment mixture and the thickened load to 40 ° C and allow to cool under Moritz. Allow to cool to 25 ° C.

At the same time, mix all constituents of the aqueous phase, weigh everything and add water, and then place on the thermal plate to rise to 70 ° C and under Rayneri. Sprinkle cellulose over the mixture and shake until completely solubilized. Emulsify for 10 min at room temperature under turbine by adding the aqueous phase to the previously prepared grease phase.

The same emulsion was made with 30% pigments (iron oxides + titanium dioxide) instead of 25% respectively with a volatile silicon oil (formula D) and at least one volatile linear alkane according to the present invention ( formula E). _

Ingredients Formula D (comparative) Formula E (invention) Magnesium sulphate 1.50 1.50 Modified distearyl dimethyl ammonium hectorite (Elementis BENTONE 38 VCG) 1 1 Isobutane-expanded vinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile / methyl methacrylate microspheres (EXPANCEL 551 DE 40 D42 from Expancel) 0.60 0.60 Titanium dioxide 25.06 25.06 Red iron oxide 1.16 1.16 Black iron oxide 0.43 0.43 Yellow iron oxide 3, 35 3.35 Triestearine Acetylated Glycol Stearate (United Guardian UNITWIX) 0.30 0.30 Sodium Carboxymethylcellulose 0.50 0.50 Cyclopentasiloxane 16.9 Polyglyceryl-4 Isetearear Cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 Hexyl Iaurate (ABIL WE 09 from Evonik Goldschmidt) 9 9 Ingredients Formula D (comparative) Formula E (invention) polydimethylsiloxane (viscosity: 5 CST) (XIAMETER PMX-200 SILICONE FLUID 5CS from Dow Corning) 0 0 Glycerin 5 5 La Roche-Posay Water 30 70.70 Ethylhexyl glycerine 0.50 0.50 Pentylene glycol 3 3 major mixture n-undecane: n-tridecane in which n-undecane is the majority in the mixture * 16,9

* as prepared according to request W02008 / 155059 b) Stability

The stability of the AaE compositions was evaluated by macroscopic and microscopic observation after 24 hours, 1 month and 2 months at room temperature, 45 ° C and after 3 temperature cycles of -20 ° C to +20 ° C in a greenhouse. : Vtch VT4004).

Each cycle lasts 24 hours and comprises the following steps: 6 hours at 20 ° C, then 6 hours temperature drop to -20 ° C, then 6 hours at -20 ° C, and finally 6 hours temperature rise to 20 ° C.

After each cycle, the macroscopic and microscopic aspects of the composition are evaluated.

After 3 cycles, the composition should not show any macroscopic changes: it should remain smooth and homogeneous, without release, without phase separation and without color change.

The composition is observed under a slide-coverslip microscope with an increase of X10. Its microscopic aspect should remain close to the initial aspect: it should not be observed in. in particular, an emulsion degradation (coarser emulsion bottom, coalescence translated by the presence of numerous large drops, modification of the preparation edges, presence of crystals).

The test is considered stable if the emulsion remains thin, without loosening at the edges, without coalescence.

Composition A (comparative) is unstable after 3 cycles of

temperature.

BeC compositions (invention) are stable after 24h, 1 month and

2 months.

Composition D (comparative) results in a mixture not

water and oil phase pigments, while composition E (invention) remains stable after 24H, 1 month and 2 months.

c) Sensory evaluation

Protocol

In addition, a sensory evaluation of said compositions A

C was carried out in a panel of 15 expert skin-based users. After standard application, each person assesses the perception of that composition at the time of application and in terms of makeup result according to certain predefined criteria on a standard scale.

In application, each model assesses in particular the following parameters: fluidity, slip, powdery touch, ease of application, fatty touch.

After application, each model particularly assesses the makeup result: powdery finish, coverage, uniformity.

Results

Compared to formula A (comparative), the BeC emulsions obtained are creamy, easy to apply, non-greasy, allow to cover pronounced intensity skin imperfections and leave a light, soft and non-sticky film after application.

Example 2

Coverage Properties of Compositions According to the Present

Invention

Usable media for measuring the coverage of formulas A to C described above are black and white Bioskin plates (Maprecos supplier). The AaC compositions prepared in Example 1 are applied with a 32mg finger pan on a 5cm diameter surface, and dried for 90 minutes. In particular, the applied thickness is 15pm.

Reflectance spectra are obtained with a MINOLTA 3700-d spectrocolorimeter (diffuse measurement geometry and D65 / 100 observation, specular component mode excluded) on black and white backgrounds (3 measurements for each application application).

The spectra are expressed in colorimetric coordinates in the CIEYxyI 931 space for the International Commission on Illumination.

The contrast ratio CR, or coverage, is calculated by making the arithmetic mean of Y on black background divided by the average value of Y on white background multiplied by 100.

CR = [Y (black background) / Y (white background)] x100

Formula A (comparative): CR = 86

Formula B (containing 15.3% volatile linear alkane): CR = 81

Formula C (containing 21.9% volatile linear alkane): CR = 76

The 3 formulas are in the very high coverage field as they are close to 100.

Advantageously, compositions B and C according to the present invention give a more natural make-up result than composition A (comparative): the traces are less marked and the relief imperfections (like scales, enlarged pores or dry regions) are less visible

These results show that the use of C7-C14 volatile linear alkanes according to the present invention, "in an A / O architecture, allows to integrate a high pigment content (25 and 30% tested) with very high coating properties. at the same time giving the product improved cosmetic properties in application compared to the same architecture but with silicone volatile oils.

Example 3 Skin Corrector

Ingredients Formula F (invention) Magnesium sulphate 1.50 Modified distearyl dimethyl ammonium hectorite (Elementis BENTONE 38 VCG) 1 Isobutane-expanded vinylidene / acrylonitrile / methyl methacrylate microspheres (EXPANCEL 551 DE 40 D42 ) 0.60 Titanium dioxide 21.20 Red iron oxide 0.89 Black iron oxide 0.33 Yellow iron oxide 2.58 Acetylated trystearine glycol stearate (United Guardian UNITWIX) 0.30 Sodium carboxymethylcellulose 0, 50 Polyglyceryl-4 cetyl isostearate PEG / PPG-10/1 hexyl laurate (ABIL WE 09 from Evonik Goldsehmidt) 9 Glyerin 5 La Roche-Posay water 31.70 Ethylhexyl glycerine 0.50 Pentylene glycol 3 Dodeean (Parafol C12- Sasol 97) 21.9

Composition F is derived from composition C according to

present invention in which the undecane: tridecane bulk mixture was replaced by another volatile linear alkane according to the present invention, dodecane.

Compositions according to the present invention applied uniformly to the skin of the face, or with little touches to camouflage skin imperfections, in particular with regard to skin color defects.

Example 4

Effect of Volatile Linear Alkanes on the Cosmetic Properties of the Compositions of the Present Invention Compared to Other Volatile Hydrocarbon Oils

The following 3 compositions are prepared as described in 1. Composition C (invention) is described in Example 1 and GeH (comparative) compositions comprise volatile hydrocarbon oils distinct from volatile linear alkanes according to the present invention. _

Ingredients Formula C (invention) Formula G (comparative) Formula H (comparative) Magnesium sulphate 1.50 1.50 1.50 Modified distearyl dimethyl ammonium (BENTONE 38 VCG from Elementis) 1 1 1 Microspheres (vinylidene chloride copolymer / isobutane-expanded acrylonitrile / methyl methacrylate (Expancel EXPANCEL 551 DE 40 D42) 0.60 0.60 0.60 Titanium dioxide 21.20 21.20 21.20 Red iron oxide 0.89 0.89 0 , 89 Ingredients Formula C (invention) Formula G (comparative) Formula H (comparative) Black Iron Oxide 0.33 0.33 0.33 Yellow Iron Oxide 2.58 2.58 2.58 Acetylated Glyceryl Stearate ( United Guardian UNITWIX) 0.30 0.30 0.30 Sodium Carboxymethylcellulose 0.50 0.50 0.50 Isohexadecane 21.90 Isododecane 21.90 Polyglyceryl-4 Isetearate Cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 hexyl laurate (ABIL WE 09 from Evonik Goldschmidt) 9 9 9 Glycerin 5 5 5 La Roehe-Posay Water 31.70 31.70 31.70 Ethylhexyl glycerine 0.50 0.50 0.50. Pentylene glycol 3 3 3 majority mixture of n-undecane: n-tridecane in which n-undecane is the majority in the mixture * 21.90

* as prepared according to W02008 / 155059 The viscosity of the compositions thus prepared was measured and

The stability and sensory aspect of each of the respective protocols described in Example 1 above was evaluated.

Viscosity

The viscosity of the compositions is measured after 24h at rest on a Rheomat 180 (LAMY) with Rotor M3 at 25 ° C after 10min shear at 200 rpm

The following viscosities were obtained:

Yeah

Composition C (invention): 25uD, ie 8.6 poises Composition G (isohexadecane comparison): 51uD, ie 19.5

Composition H (isododecane comparison): 31uD, ie 11.1

Stability

No noticeable difference in stability was observed between these 3 compositions.

Sensory evaluation In contrast, sensory evaluation in models of these 3

The compositions are very favorable to composition C according to the present invention. Indeed:

- composition G (comparative with isohexadecane) has a viscosity twice as high as composition C (of

according to the present invention), which makes its application less easy as the product is more pasty and delicate to spread. Furthermore, the deposit on the skin is sticky with composition G, as opposed to the deposit with composition C according to the present invention.

composition H (comparative with isododecane) has a slightly higher viscosity than composition C; she is easy to

apply at the outset but due to the high volatility of isododecane, the 'playtime' of the product (time available to the user to 'work' the composition and homogenize the make-up effect) is very short, and does not allow obtaining a homogeneous deposit after isododecane evaporation: the deposit becomes rigid. As for composition G, the deposit on the skin is also sticky, unlike deposit with composition C according to the present invention.

These results confirm that the use of volatile linear alkanes in the water-in-oil emulsion, which comprises a high content of powdery colorants, provides a creamy, easy-to-apply texture that allows even skin coverage to be homogeneously covered. a light, non-sticky film after application compared to the same architectures as compositions with other volatile hydrocarbon oils (eg isododecane, isohexadecane).

Claims (15)

1. COLORED COSMETIC COMPOSITION of makeup of keratin materials, in particular skin, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, characterized in that it comprises in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i) at least 18% by weight of pulverulent coloring matter, by weight of the total composition, (ii) at least one or more volatile linear alkanes, in particular with C7-C14. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that it comprises at least 20 wt.%, Preferably at least 25 wt.%, More preferably at least 30 wt.% Of pulverulent coloring matter by weight. total composition. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 2, characterized in that it comprises at least 50% by weight of volatile linear alkane (s) in relation to the total volatile oil (s) content. (e) of the composition. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it comprises at least 90%, preferably 100% by weight of volatile linear alkane (s) with respect to the total content of volatile oil (s). Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 4, characterized in that said volatile linear alkane comprises from 7 to 14 carbon atoms, in particular from 9 to 14 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 14. carbon atoms. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the volatile linear alkane is chosen from n-heptane, n-octane, ο n-nonane, ο n-undecane, ο n-dodecane. , ο n-tridecane, ο ': n-tetradecane, and mixtures thereof. Composition, in disagreement with claim 6, characterized in that it comprises at least dodecane. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it comprises at least two distinct volatile linear alkanes which differ from each other by a carbon number η of at least 1, in particular which differ from each other in carbon number of 1 or 2. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it comprises a mixture of at least two volatile linear alkanes comprising: - from 50 to 90% by weight, preferably from 55 to 80% by weight. preferably further from 60 to 75% by weight of Cn volatile linear alkane wherein η ranges from 7 to 14, from 10 to 50% by weight, preferably from 20 to 45% by weight, preferably from 24 to 40. % by weight of Cn + X volatile linear alkane where χ is greater than or equal to 1, preferably x = 1 or x = 2, with n + x between 8 and 14, relative to the total weight of alkanes in said mixture . Composition according to Claim 9, characterized in that it comprises a mixture of n-undecane: n-tridecane (C11-C13) comprising: - from 55 to 80% by weight, preferably from 60 to 75% by weight. weight of Cn volatile linear alkane (n-undecane), from 20 to 45 wt%, preferably 24 to 40 wt% of C13 volatile linear alkane (n-tridecane), based on total alkane weight in said mixture. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it comprises from 5% to 50% by weight of? volatile linear alkane (s), in particular from 8 to 40% by weight * volatile linear alkane (s), and more particularly from 10% to 30% by weight alkane volatile linear (s), in particular with C7 -C14 relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it further comprises at least one silicone surfactant. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 12, characterized in that it is a skin foundation or a skin corrector. COSMETIC PROCESS FOR MAKING OF KERATIN MATERIALS, in particular the skin, characterized in that it comprises applying to said materials a composition as described in one of claims 1 to 13. COSMETIC PROCESS according to claim 14, characterized in that it camouflages skin imperfections, in particular skin color defects.