CH301601A - Process for permanently changing the shape of hair. - Google Patents
Process for permanently changing the shape of hair.Info
- Publication number
- CH301601A CH301601A CH301601DA CH301601A CH 301601 A CH301601 A CH 301601A CH 301601D A CH301601D A CH 301601DA CH 301601 A CH301601 A CH 301601A
- Authority
- CH
- Switzerland
- Prior art keywords
- liquid
- dependent
- liquid contains
- hair
- reducing
- Prior art date
Links
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims description 22
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 claims description 23
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 claims description 11
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- USFZMSVCRYTOJT-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ammonium acetate Chemical compound N.CC(O)=O USFZMSVCRYTOJT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000005695 Ammonium acetate Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 230000002378 acidificating effect Effects 0.000 claims description 4
- 235000019257 ammonium acetate Nutrition 0.000 claims description 4
- 229940043376 ammonium acetate Drugs 0.000 claims description 4
- 230000006378 damage Effects 0.000 claims description 4
- BASFCYQUMIYNBI-UHFFFAOYSA-N platinum Chemical compound [Pt] BASFCYQUMIYNBI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- PXHVJJICTQNCMI-UHFFFAOYSA-N Nickel Chemical compound [Ni] PXHVJJICTQNCMI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- QVGXLLKOCUKJST-UHFFFAOYSA-N atomic oxygen Chemical compound [O] QVGXLLKOCUKJST-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000003054 catalyst Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000007935 neutral effect Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- 229910052760 oxygen Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000001301 oxygen Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 102000001554 Hemoglobins Human genes 0.000 claims description 2
- 108010054147 Hemoglobins Proteins 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000006243 chemical reaction Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- 229930002875 chlorophyll Natural products 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000019804 chlorophyll Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- ATNHDLDRLWWWCB-AENOIHSZSA-M chlorophyll a Chemical compound C1([C@@H](C(=O)OC)C(=O)C2=C3C)=C2N2C3=CC(C(CC)=C3C)=[N+]4C3=CC3=C(C=C)C(C)=C5N3[Mg-2]42[N+]2=C1[C@@H](CCC(=O)OC\C=C(/C)CCC[C@H](C)CCC[C@H](C)CCCC(C)C)[C@H](C)C2=C5 ATNHDLDRLWWWCB-AENOIHSZSA-M 0.000 claims description 2
- 229910017052 cobalt Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000010941 cobalt Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- GUTLYIVDDKVIGB-UHFFFAOYSA-N cobalt atom Chemical compound [Co] GUTLYIVDDKVIGB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 150000002506 iron compounds Chemical class 0.000 claims description 2
- 159000000014 iron salts Chemical class 0.000 claims description 2
- 229910052697 platinum Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 2
- 230000001419 dependent effect Effects 0.000 claims 9
- LSNNMFCWUKXFEE-UHFFFAOYSA-N Sulfurous acid Chemical compound OS(O)=O LSNNMFCWUKXFEE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 1
- 210000002837 heart atrium Anatomy 0.000 claims 1
- 102000011782 Keratins Human genes 0.000 description 5
- 108010076876 Keratins Proteins 0.000 description 5
- 239000003638 chemical reducing agent Substances 0.000 description 5
- QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ammonia Chemical compound N QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 238000001704 evaporation Methods 0.000 description 4
- GEHJYWRUCIMESM-UHFFFAOYSA-L sodium sulfite Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[O-]S([O-])=O GEHJYWRUCIMESM-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 4
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 description 3
- 230000003647 oxidation Effects 0.000 description 3
- 238000007254 oxidation reaction Methods 0.000 description 3
- 150000007513 acids Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- 229910021529 ammonia Inorganic materials 0.000 description 2
- 230000036760 body temperature Effects 0.000 description 2
- 230000008020 evaporation Effects 0.000 description 2
- 230000005923 long-lasting effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 235000010265 sodium sulphite Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- CWERGRDVMFNCDR-UHFFFAOYSA-N thioglycolic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CS CWERGRDVMFNCDR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- PQUCIEFHOVEZAU-UHFFFAOYSA-N Diammonium sulfite Chemical compound [NH4+].[NH4+].[O-]S([O-])=O PQUCIEFHOVEZAU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229910021578 Iron(III) chloride Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 230000003213 activating effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000004913 activation Effects 0.000 description 1
- GLMQHZPGHAPYIO-UHFFFAOYSA-L azanium;2-hydroxypropane-1,2,3-tricarboxylate;iron(2+) Chemical compound [NH4+].[Fe+2].[O-]C(=O)CC(O)(CC([O-])=O)C([O-])=O GLMQHZPGHAPYIO-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 238000009835 boiling Methods 0.000 description 1
- GEHJBWKLJVFKPS-UHFFFAOYSA-N bromochloroacetic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C(Cl)Br GEHJBWKLJVFKPS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 238000010411 cooking Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000001816 cooling Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000000254 damaging effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 1
- 159000000011 group IA salts Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 235000000011 iron ammonium citrate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000004313 iron ammonium citrate Substances 0.000 description 1
- RBTARNINKXHZNM-UHFFFAOYSA-K iron trichloride Chemical compound Cl[Fe](Cl)Cl RBTARNINKXHZNM-UHFFFAOYSA-K 0.000 description 1
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229910052759 nickel Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000007800 oxidant agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000001590 oxidative effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 238000009958 sewing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000009423 ventilation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000010792 warming Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000004804 winding Methods 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/04—Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
- A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
- A45D7/00—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair
- A45D7/04—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair chemical
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/20—Halogens; Compounds thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/22—Peroxides; Oxygen; Ozone
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
- A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
Landscapes
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
- Emergency Medicine (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Description
Verfahren zur dauerhaften Formveränderung von Haaren. Bei den bisher bekannten. Methoden zur dauerhaften Formveränderung von Haaren, der sogenannt.en Dauerwelle, ging man ur sprünglich von einer alkalischen Flüssigkeit aus, die bei Kochtemperatur angewandt wurde. Die Alkalien bewirken bei höherer Temperatur eine Erweichung der Keratine. Das Haar, vor her auf Wickelstäbe gewickelt, nimmt dadurch eine gekräuselte Form an. Nach Abkühlung tritt eine gewisse Wiedererhärtung ein, wo durch die neue Form fixiert ist. In dieser Weise wurde mehrere Jahre die Dauerwelle hergestellt.
Es stellte sich aber bald heraus, dass die bei dieser Arbeitsweise im Haar verbleibenden Alkalien schädigende Wirkung auf das Haar ausüben. Diese Erkenntnis führte dazu, ini Anschluss am den alkalischen Kochprozess saure Spülungen am Haar vorzunehmen.
Bei .der Herstellung der sogenannten Kalt Dauerwelle, wo durch Verwendung von alkali- sehen und reduzierend wirkenden Chemikalien das Keratin bereits bei Körpertemperatur er- weieht. und umgeformt wird, sind teils Säuren, teils Oxydationsmittel, teils Gemische beider als wiedererhärtende Mittel in Anwendung. Ohne dieselben würde überhaupt keine halt bare Kräuselung entstehen und das Haar Schaden nehmen.
Es -wurde nun gefunden, dass bei allen Dauerwellenprozessen von 20-200 C die Naehbehandlung erspart werden kann, ohne dass die oben erwähnten Schäden oder Nach teile auftreten.
Gegenstand der Erfindung ist ein Verfah ren zur dauerhaften Formveränderung von Haaren mit einer einzigen Beha-ndlunggsflüs- sigkeit, welches dadurch gekennzeichnet ist, dass man eine reduzierende, alkalisch reagie rende Erweichungsflüssigkeit verwendet und im übrigen die Zusammensetzung der Flüssig keit einerseits und. die Bedingungen bei der Behandlung der Haare anderseits so wählt,
dass nach Erweichung der Haare die reduzie renden Stoffe zerstört werden und, die Flüs sigkeit wenigstens neutrale Reaktion annimmt. Es haben sich dabei folgende Massnahmen als geeignet erwiesen: a) Bei Verwendung flüchtiger Alkalien kann in der Regel bereits durch genügende Belüftung der Haarwickel eine Aufhebung der Wirkung der Erweichungsflüssigkeit und Umschlag zu saurer Beschaffenheit erreicht werden.
b) Durch Zusatz von Stoffen, die eine Aktivierung bzw. Übertragung des Luftsauer stoffes bewirken, kann man die Keratin erwei chenden, reduzierend wirkenden Mittel kurz oder bald nach der Erweichung des Keratins unwirksam machen und die Wiedererhärtung herbeiführen.
c) Durch Zusatz von Stoffen, die beim Verdampfen bzw. Verdunsten oder bei der Oxydation Säuren liefern oder die Basizität verringern, tritt eine Wiedererhärtung des Keratins ein.
<I>Beispiele zu b):</I> Als Aktiviertings- bzw. Übertragungsmittel für die Oxydation des Reduktionsmittels durch Luftsauerstoff kom men in Frage: Eisensalze, orga.n. Eisenverbin dungen, Nickel-, Cobalt-, Platin-Katalysatoren, Hämoglobin, Chlorophyll, Fermente.
Da diese Stoffe zum Teil sogar farbige Ver bindungen reit den in Frage stehenden Reduk- tionsmitteln bilden, kann der Endpunkt der Oxydation, das heisst die Zerstörung der Re- duktionsmittel, sehr gut beobachtet werden.
<I>Beispiel zu</I> c) : Ein alkalisches Salz, das bei der Luftoxydation seine Alkalität verliert, ist zum Beispiel das Natriumsulfit. Ein Salz, das beim Verdampfen oder Verdunsten Säure liefert, ist das Ammonacetat.
Zur Beschleunigung dieser einen starken Luftwechsel voraussetzenden Vorgänge sind luftdurchlässige Warmhaltekappen und Luft duschen zu empfehlen. Unter Umständen ge nügt es auch, ein Handtuch anzulegen und über Nacht wirken zu lassen.
Beispiel <I>1:</I> Ein Mittel für eine sogenannte Heiss- oder Warm-Dauerwelle kann wie folgt zusammen gesetzt sein: 8 % Ammonsulfit 3 % Nat-riiunsulfit 0,1% Eisenammonzitrat 2. % Ammonacetat 2 % Ammoniak Diese Mischung führt. ohne saure oder oxy- dative Nachspülung zu einer haltbaren Dauer kräuselung.
<I>Beispiel 2:</I> Ein Mittel für die Kalt-Dauerwelle: 3 % Thioglykolsäure 3 % Ammoniak 1 % Ammonacetat 0,1% Eisenchlorid Diese Mischung gibt bei milder Wärme, bzw. bei Körpertemperatur eine haltbare Kräuselung, ohne das Haar zu schädigen.
Die anfangs rote Färbung der Mischung gemäss Beispiel 2, die ein Zeichen dafür ist, dass sich noch aktive Reduktionsmittel im Haar befinden., verschwindet schon zum Teil während der Einwirkunggszeit unter einer luf tigen, aber warmhaltenden Kappe oder späte stens beim Trocknen unter dem Föhn oder an der Luft.
Das Verfahren gemäss der Erfindung lässt sich einfach und sicher, auch durch weniger geschulte Personen, durchführen.
Process for permanently changing the shape of hair. With the previously known. Methods for permanently changing the shape of hair, the so-called permanent wave, were originally based on an alkaline liquid that was used at boiling temperature. The alkalis cause the keratins to soften at higher temperatures. The hair, previously wound on winding rods, takes on a curled shape. After cooling, a certain re-hardening occurs, where the new shape is fixed. The permanent wave was made in this way for several years.
It soon turned out, however, that the alkalis remaining in the hair in this way of working have a damaging effect on the hair. This knowledge led to the use of acidic rinses on the hair in connection with the alkaline cooking process.
In the production of the so-called cold permanent wave, where the use of alkaline and reducing chemicals see the keratin at body temperature. and is transformed, partly acids, partly oxidizing agents, partly mixtures of both are used as re-hardening agents. Without them, there would be no permanent frizz at all and the hair would be damaged.
It has now been found that in all permanent wave processes from 20-200 C, the sewing treatment can be saved without the damage or disadvantage mentioned above occurring.
The subject matter of the invention is a method for permanently changing the shape of hair with a single treatment liquid, which is characterized in that a reducing, alkaline-reacting softening liquid is used and the composition of the liquid is used on the one hand and. on the other hand selects the conditions for the treatment of the hair so
that after the hair has softened, the reducing substances are destroyed and the liquid adopts at least a neutral reaction. The following measures have proven to be suitable: a) When using volatile alkalis, the effect of the softening liquid and turning it into an acidic nature can usually be achieved by sufficient ventilation of the hair packs.
b) By adding substances that cause activation or transfer of the oxygen in the air, the keratin softening, reducing agents can be made ineffective shortly or soon after the softening of the keratin and cause re-hardening.
c) The addition of substances that produce acids or reduce the basicity during evaporation or evaporation or oxidation causes the keratin to harden again.
<I> Examples for b): </I> Possible activating or transferring agents for the oxidation of the reducing agent by atmospheric oxygen are: iron salts, orga.n. Iron compounds, nickel, cobalt, platinum catalysts, hemoglobin, chlorophyll, ferments.
Since some of these substances even form colored compounds with the reducing agents in question, the end point of the oxidation, ie the destruction of the reducing agents, can be observed very well.
<I> Example for </I> c): An alkaline salt that loses its alkalinity when oxidized in the air is, for example, sodium sulfite. A salt that gives off acid when evaporating or evaporating is ammonium acetate.
To accelerate these processes, which require a strong air exchange, air-permeable warming caps and air showers are recommended. It may also be sufficient to put on a towel and let it work overnight.
Example <I> 1: </I> An agent for a so-called hot or warm permanent wave can be composed as follows: 8% ammonium sulfite 3% sodium sulfite 0.1% iron ammonium citrate 2.% ammonium acetate 2% ammonia This mixture leads. without acidic or oxidative rinsing for long-lasting curling.
<I> Example 2: </I> A means for the cold permanent wave: 3% thioglycolic acid 3% ammonia 1% ammonium acetate 0.1% ferric chloride This mixture gives a long-lasting frizz with mild warmth or at body temperature without the hair to harm.
The initially red coloration of the mixture according to Example 2, which is a sign that there are still active reducing agents in the hair, disappears in part during the exposure time under an air term but warm cap or at the latest when drying under the hairdryer or in the air.
The method according to the invention can be carried out easily and safely, even by less trained people.
Claims (1)
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| DE301601X | 1948-10-01 |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| CH301601A true CH301601A (en) | 1954-09-15 |
Family
ID=6100960
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| CH301601D CH301601A (en) | 1948-10-01 | 1951-07-27 | Process for permanently changing the shape of hair. |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| CH (1) | CH301601A (en) |
Cited By (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| EP0727201A1 (en) * | 1994-08-12 | 1996-08-21 | GOLDWELL GmbH | Composition for the permanent waving of human hair |
| EP0727202A1 (en) * | 1994-08-12 | 1996-08-21 | GOLDWELL GmbH | Composition for the permanent waving of human hair |
-
1951
- 1951-07-27 CH CH301601D patent/CH301601A/en unknown
Cited By (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| EP0727201A1 (en) * | 1994-08-12 | 1996-08-21 | GOLDWELL GmbH | Composition for the permanent waving of human hair |
| EP0727202A1 (en) * | 1994-08-12 | 1996-08-21 | GOLDWELL GmbH | Composition for the permanent waving of human hair |
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