CH720291A2 - Method for producing a covering component comprising a complex decoration - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a method for producing a watchmaking, jewelry or jewelry component (10) comprising a complex decoration, the method being characterized in that it comprises the successive steps of: – production of 'a substrate (100); – surface treatment of the substrate (100) to modify the surface state of a covering surface (101) of the substrate (100); – deposition, by physical vapor deposition method, of a thin electrically insulating layer, called “first decorative layer” (103); – removal of the first decorative layer (103) on part of its surface; – deposition by electroplating of a galvanic coating of metallic material called “second decorative layer” (104). The invention also relates to a dial produced by a method according to the invention.

Description

Technical field of the invention

[0001] The invention relates to the field of watchmaking, jewelry or jewelry, and relates more particularly to a method for producing a watchmaking, jewelry or jewelry component comprising a complex decoration .

[0002] In the present text, the terms “decoration component” designate, in a manner commonly accepted in the aforementioned fields, a component visible to a user, and having a particularly decorative function, that is to say contributing to the visual appearance of an object.

Technology background

[0003] Particularly in the watchmaking field, and particularly in the development of exterior components, such as dials, the aesthetic aspect constitutes a major constraint. Indeed, it allows a watchmaking company to stand out from its competitors, to help shape the identity of a brand, and also to attract potential customers. The aesthetic aspect is based on different points such as the geometry of the covering component, the elements attached to this component, such as the appliques in the case of a dial, the finish of its surface, that is to say the condition of its surface, and its color.

[0004] Different methods are known for producing decorations on the surface of a covering component, such as the application of a varnish or the deposition of more or less thin layers, by electroplating or by layer deposition method. thin under vacuum, for example by chemical vapor deposition process or by physical vapor deposition.

[0005] For the production of complex, particularly attractive decorations, it may be desired to deposit a coating both by a method of depositing thin layers under vacuum and by electroplating, for example to obtain a particular aesthetic appearance combining the specific aspects to each of these methods. However, the production of such a covering component is complex to the extent that the production of a mask is necessary on one of the layers before any deposition of the other layer. Without a mask, a galvanic coating will be deposited on the entire surface of the thin layers deposited under vacuum, and similarly, a thin layer deposited under vacuum will be deposited on the entire surface of the galvanic coating.

[0006] There is therefore a need to be able to produce a complex decoration on a covering component including in particular juxtaposed coatings deposited with different deposition methods, in particular by electroplating and by vacuum deposition method, in a simple manner.

Summary of the invention

[0007] The invention resolves the aforementioned drawbacks by proposing a solution making it possible to obtain a complex decoration on a covering component in a simple and rapid manner.

[0008] To this end, the present invention relates to a method for producing a watchmaking, jewelry or jewelry component comprising the successive steps of: – production of a substrate; – surface treatment of the substrate to modify the surface condition of a covering surface of the substrate; – deposition, by physical vapor deposition method, of a thin electrically insulating layer, called “first decorative layer”; – removal of the first decorative layer on part of its surface; – deposition by electroplating of at least one galvanic coating in metallic material called “second decorative layer”.

[0009] In the case where the said “second decorative layer” is a stack of galvanic layers, laser ablation is possible to selectively remove one or more upper layers of this stack in order to obtain at least two galvanic colors on the substrate in plus the so-called “first decorative layer”.

[0010] One of the advantages of the intention is to guarantee compliance with the alignment of the first and the second decorative layer with respect to each other.

[0011] In particular modes of implementation, the invention may also include one or more of the following characteristics, taken in isolation or in all technically possible combinations.

[0012] In particular modes of implementation, the method comprises a step of deposition, by a physical vapor deposition method, of a thin layer of metallic adhesion on the covering surface of the substrate before deposition of the first decorative layer.

[0013] In particular modes of implementation, the thin adhesion layer is deposited by evaporation or by cathode sputtering. Furthermore, it preferably has a thickness of between 1 and 300 nm.

[0014] In particular modes of implementation, the thin bonding layer is made of Cr or Ti.

[0015] In particular embodiments, the substrate is made of ceramic material, the thin bonding layer being exposed following the step of removing the first decorative layer.

[0016] In particular modes of implementation, the method according to the invention comprises a step of depositing by electroplating a galvanic underlayer of metallic material on the covering surface of the substrate before deposition of the first layer decorative.

[0017] In particular modes of implementation, the first decorative layer is deposited by evaporation or by cathode sputtering.

[0018] In particular modes of implementation, the first decorative layer is produced so as to have a thickness of between 10 and 1000 nm.

[0019] In particular modes of implementation, the first decorative layer is made of SiO2, TiO2, HfO2, ZrO2, CrxCy.

[0020] In particular modes of implementation, the ablation step is carried out by laser machining or by chemical or mechanical etching.

[0021] In particular modes of implementation, the ablation step is carried out so as not to impact the substrate, the deposition of the second decorative layer being carried out so that said layer extends substantially in the same plane as the first decorative layer.

[0022] In particular modes of implementation, the ablation step is carried out so as to machine the substrate, the deposition of the second decorative layer being carried out so that said layer extends substantially in a plane different from that in which the first decorative layer extends.

[0023] In particular modes of implementation, the electroplating deposition step is carried out so that the thickness of the second decorative layer is between 50 nm and 20 µm.

[0024] In particular modes of implementation, the electroplating deposition step is carried out so that the thickness of the second decorative layer is several hundred micrometers, or even tenths of a millimeter.

[0025] In particular modes of implementation, the second decorative layer is made of copper, nickel, gold, silver, rhodium or ruthenium.

[0026] In particular modes of implementation, the method comprises, following the step of depositing a second decorative layer by electroplating, a step of depositing a protective layer on the first and second decorative layers , made of acrylic resin, nitrocellulose, alkyd or polyurethane.

[0027] The present invention also relates, according to another object, to a dial formed by a covering component produced by a method as previously described.

Brief description of the figures

[0028] Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will appear on reading the following detailed description given by way of non-limiting example, with reference to the appended drawings in which Figures 1 to 7 respectively represent schematically in sectional view the result of the steps of a method of implementing a covering component according to a preferred mode of implementation of the present invention.

Note that the figures are not necessarily drawn to scale for reasons of clarity.

Detailed description of the invention

[0030] The present invention relates to a method for producing a covering component 10 for watches, jewelry or jewelry comprising a complex decoration. More particularly, the covering component 10 comprises two different coatings juxtaposed and deposited with different deposition methods. In the rest of the text and as shown in the figures, the method according to the invention is applied to the production of a watchmaking component 10 and in particular to a dial.

The method according to the invention comprises a first step of producing a substrate 100 preferably made of metallic material. This step may consist of machining or shaping a raw part using any technique known to those skilled in the art. The substrate 100 is preferably made of an alloy of copper, iron, gold or silver. In other examples of implementation, the substrate 100 can be made of any pure or alloyed metallic material. The substrate 100 can be produced by striking, by machining with a cutting tool, by laser machining or by a combination of these manufacturing methods.

The method then comprises a step of surface treatment of the substrate 100 in order to modify the surface condition of a covering surface 101 of the substrate 100, and consequently, the appearance and shine of the latter. For example, the covering surface 101 can be polished and/or structured during this step. In particular, the covering surface 101 can be sandblasted, sanded, micro-blasted, brushed, sunburst or more generally machined. The surface treatment can also be done by laser structuring, the laser structuring can be combined with one or more of the surface treatment methods mentioned above, to produce complex decorations. This surface treatment step advantageously makes it possible to create a complex three-dimensional decoration.

[0033] Figure 1 schematically shows the substrate 100 obtained at the end of these steps.

[0034] Figure 2 schematically illustrates a thin metal bonding layer 102 deposited on the substrate 100. Such a thin bonding layer 102 is obtained by implementing a physical vapor deposition method on the surface. covering 101 of the substrate 100. This thin bonding layer 102 is not essential for carrying out the invention, but advantageously makes it possible to standardize each of the final colors of the covering component 10, while promoting the attaches thin layers deposited during the implementation of the process according to the invention, as described below.

Preferably, the thin bonding layer 102 is deposited so that it has a thickness of between 1 and 300 nm and is made of Cr or Ti. The thin bonding layer 102 can be deposited by using a physical vapor deposition method, and more particularly by evaporation or by cathode sputtering.

[0036] The method comprises a following step of depositing a thin electrically insulating layer, called “first decorative layer” 103, the strength of which is ensured by the thin bonding layer 102. This deposit is carried out by implementing of a physical vapor deposition method, preferably by implementing a physical vapor deposition method, and more particularly by evaporation or by cathode sputtering.

The first decorative layer 103 is produced so as to have a thickness of between 10 and 1000 nm.

Advantageously, the first decorative layer 103 is made of SiO2, HfO2, ZrO2, TiO2 or CrxCy, for example Cr3C2. Depending on the desired visual appearance of the covering component 10, this first decorative layer 103 can be transparent, semi-transparent or opaque.

This deposition step is followed by a step of removing at least the first decorative layer 103 on part of its surface. In other words, this step may consist, in a first case, of removing only the first decorative layer 103, on part of its surface, or in a second case, of removing the first decorative layer 103 and the thin layer d hook 102, on part of their surface. Thus, at the end of this step, in the first case, part of the thin bonding layer 102 is exposed, and in the second case, part of the substrate 100 is exposed.

[0040] Depending on the desired visual appearance of the covering component 10, in the second case described above, the ablation step can be carried out so as to impact or not to impact the substrate 100. In other words, if the substrate 100 is impacted, it is machined as shown in Figure 7, that is to say it undergoes material removal, and if it is not impacted, the covering surface 101 retains its surface condition obtained following the implementation of the surface treatment step.

[0041] The fact of impacting the substrate 100 during the ablation step makes it possible to structure it and therefore to produce complex decorations, in three dimensions, by adding an additional level of depth in any reliefs generated on the substrate 100 during the surface treatment step.

The ablation step can be carried out by laser machining or by chemical or mechanical etching.

[0043] This ablation step also makes it possible to carry out a step of depositing by electroplating a galvanic coating of metallic material, called “second decorative layer” 104. Advantageously, during this step, the second decorative layer 104 n is deposited only on the thin bonding layer 102 or on the substrate 100 depending on the case considered described above. Indeed, during the implementation of the electroplating deposition step, the second decorative layer 104 is formed by electrochemical reduction only on electrically conductive materials, the first decorative layer 103 is therefore not covered by it. .

[0044] It should be noted that it goes without saying that, in the present text, the notion of “electrically insulating” characterizes the property of the first decorative layer 103 not to react to the electroplating deposition step. .

[0045] At the end of this step, the first decorative layer 103 and the second decorative layer 104 are therefore juxtaposed with one another, as shown in Figure 5. The present invention makes it possible to obtain a covering component 10 comprising two thin decorative layers juxtaposed in a simple and rapid manner, while guaranteeing perfect alignment of the two thin decorative layers with respect to each other, and therefore compliance with manufacturing tolerances.

[0046] Advantageously, the substrate 100 can be made of ceramic when the method according to the invention comprises the step of depositing the thin bonding layer 102 and the ablation step is carried out so as to remove only the first decorative layer 103, on part of its surface.

[0047] In the case in which the substrate 100 is impacted during the ablation step, the deposition of the second decorative layer 104 can be carried out so that said layer extends substantially in a plane different from that in which extends the first decorative layer 103 so as to generate a visual effect of the dial in three dimensions and therefore an impression of depth, or extends substantially in the same plane as the first decorative layer 103 so as to generate a visual effect of the two-dimensional dial.

The electroplating deposition step is carried out so that the thickness of the second decorative layer 104 is between 50 nm and 20 μm. Alternatively, the electroplating deposition step can be carried out so that the thickness of the second decorative layer 104 is several hundred micrometers or several tenths of a millimeter. The second decorative layer 104 can advantageously be made of copper, nickel, gold, silver, rhodium or ruthenium.

[0049] Advantageously, the method according to the invention may comprise a step of depositing by electroplating a galvanic underlayer (not shown in the figures) of metallic material on the covering surface 101 of the substrate 100, before deposition of the first decorative layer 103 or, where appropriate, of the thin bonding layer 102.

This galvanic sublayer has the advantage of constituting a barrier layer against possible degassing of the substrate 100 during the deposition step, by physical vapor deposition method, of the first decorative layer 103. Such Degassing can be caused by diffusion when the substrate is made in particular of zinc or tin. The galvanic undercoat also makes it possible to protect the substrate 100 against oxidation and to standardize each of the final colors of the covering component 10.

[0051] Furthermore, the method may include a final step, following the step of depositing the second decorative layer 104 by electroplating, consisting of a step of depositing a protective layer 105 on the first and second decorative layers 103 and 104, made of acrylic resin, nitrocellulose, alkyd, epoxy, polyurethane or any other polymer coating.

[0052] This protective layer 105 makes it possible to protect the first and second decorative layers 103 and 104, as well as the substrate 100, from any contact with the external environment, and consequently to preserve the covering component 10 from corrosion. or tarnishing.

[0053] More generally, it should be noted that the modes of implementation and embodiment considered above have been described by way of non-limiting examples, and that other variants are therefore possible.

[0054] Furthermore, it should be noted that each thin layer in the present text can be formed by a stack of thin layers.

Claims (17)

1. Method for producing a watchmaking, jewelry or jewelry component (10) comprising a complex decoration, said method being characterized in that it comprises the successive steps of: – production of a substrate (100); – surface treatment of the substrate (100) to modify the surface condition of a covering surface (101) of the substrate (100); – deposition, by physical vapor deposition method, of a thin electrically insulating layer, called “first decorative layer” (103); – removal of the first decorative layer (103) on part of its surface; – deposition by electroplating of a galvanic coating in metallic material called “second decorative layer” (104). 2. Method according to claim 1, comprising a step of depositing, by a physical vapor deposition method, a thin metallic bonding layer (102) on the covering surface (101) of the substrate (100) before depositing the first decorative layer (103). 3. Method according to claim 2, in which the thin adhesion layer (102) is deposited by evaporation or by cathode sputtering so that it has a thickness of between 1 and 300 nm. 4. Method according to one of claims 2 or 3, in which the thin bonding layer (102) is made of Cr or Ti. 5. Method according to one of claims 2 to 4, in which the substrate (100) is made of ceramic material, the thin bonding layer (102) being exposed following the step of ablation of the first decorative layer (103). 6. Method according to one of claims 1 to 4, comprising a step of depositing by electroplating a galvanic underlayer of metallic material on the covering surface (101) of the substrate (100) before deposition of the first decorative layer (103). 7. Method according to one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the first decorative layer (103) is deposited by evaporation or by cathode sputtering. 8. Method according to one of claims 1 to 7, in which the first decorative layer (103) is produced so as to have a thickness of between 10 and 1000 nm. 9. Method according to one of claims 1 to 8, in which the first decorative layer (103) is made of SiO2, TiO2, HfO2, ZrO2 or CrxCy. 10. Method according to one of claims 1 to 9, in which the ablation step is carried out by laser machining or by chemical or mechanical etching. 11. Method according to one of claims 1 to 10, in which the ablation step is carried out so as not to impact the substrate (100), the deposition of the second decorative layer (104) being carried out so that said layer extends substantially in the same plane as the first decorative layer (103). 12. Method according to one of claims 1 to 11, in which the ablation step is carried out so as to machine the substrate (100), the deposition of the second decorative layer (104) being carried out so that said layer extends substantially in a plane different from that in which the first decorative layer (103) extends. 13. Method according to one of claims 1 to 12, in which the electroplating deposition step is carried out so that the thickness of the second decorative layer (104) is between 50 nm and 20 µm. 14. Method according to one of claims 1 to 13, in which the electroplating deposition step is carried out so that the thickness of the second decorative layer (104) is several hundred micrometers, or even tenths of millimeters . 15. Method according to one of claims 1 to 14, wherein the second decorative layer (104) is made of copper, nickel, gold, silver, rhodium or ruthenium. 16. Method according to one of claims 1 to 15, comprising, following the step of depositing by electroplating a second decorative layer (104), a step of depositing a protective layer (105) on the first and second decorative layers (103, 104), made of acrylic resin, nitrocellulose, alkyd or polyurethane. 17. Dial characterized in that it is formed by a covering component (10) produced by a method according to one of claims 1 to 16.