CN101381922A - Method for producing bidirectional elastic flock suede fabric - Google Patents
Method for producing bidirectional elastic flock suede fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN101381922A CN101381922A CNA2008101217814A CN200810121781A CN101381922A CN 101381922 A CN101381922 A CN 101381922A CN A2008101217814 A CNA2008101217814 A CN A2008101217814A CN 200810121781 A CN200810121781 A CN 200810121781A CN 101381922 A CN101381922 A CN 101381922A
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Abstract
The invention discloses a method for producing bidirectional elastic suede knitted fabric, which belongs to the technical field of textile. The method for producing bidirectional elastic suede knitted fabric is characterized by comprising the following sequential steps of selecting raw materials, weft-knitting to obtain grey cloth, cutting the grey cloth, setting white blank, opening fiber, drying-setting, performing first teasing, shearing velvet, dyeing, presetting, performing second teasing, shearing velvet, rubbing off nap and setting a finished product. The invention has the advantages that the method is simple and feasible in industrial production; the raw materials are easy to get and low in cost; and the product is good in quality.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of production method of bidirectional elastic flock suede fabric, belong to textile technology field.
Background technology
Natural suede nap gloss is soft, quality is soft, feel is fine and smooth comfortable, very popular.But muntjac quantity is extremely limited, and suede nap is more apparent famous and precious.Along with the development of leather tanning technology, people can make sheepskin, ox-hide and pigskin etc. matte processing at present, and this traditionally leather products is also referred to as suede nap.But the suede nap price that adopts sheepskin and ox-hide to process is still very expensive, and is subjected to the restriction of its output, can only satisfy seldom a part of human needs.The suede nap of seeing in the market is some flock suede fabrics mostly.The main raw material of flock suede fabric is a sea-island composite fiber, and woven fabric, knitted fabric and non-weaving cloth all can be as the base cloths of flock suede, and wherein, knitted fabric has again through the branch of volume with weft knitting.The dyeing and finishing technology that with the knitted fabric is the flock suede grey cloth of base cloth at present has following two kinds:
1, through compile grey cloth → plucking → cropping → preboarding → concise, lax, alkali decrement (opening fibre) → dyeing → reduction cleaning → preboarding → napping → after arrangement → setting → finished product
2, weft-knitted grey cloth → concise, lax, alkali decrement (opening fibre) → dyeing → reduction cleaning → the cut open width of cloth → preboarding → bristle napping → back arrangement → setting → finished product
Adopting sea-island composite fiber is that the flock suede fabric elasticity that makes of raw material is relatively poor, therefore has producer to attempt introducing elastomers such as spandex in recent years in grey cloth.In general, elastomers such as spandex are in the braiding process, inhomogeneous and influence the quality of stockinette for fear of the elongation of the accident of spandex silk and tension force, the spandex silk must adopt special-purpose fixed-length positive formula line feeding device to give yarn, simultaneously the defeated line tension of spandex silk is controlled in strictness well when giving yarn, has certain degree of difficulty when implementing suitability for industrialized production.
According to the difference of in the flock suede fabric grey cloth, introducing the elastomer direction, can be divided into unidirectional elasticity (as the latitude bullet) and bidirectional elastic (as longitude and latitude bullet or four sides bullet) suede nap.Wherein, latitude bullet suede nap fabric is very ripe, is installed and used the restriction of aspect and the influence of dyeing and finishing processing method and introduce the elastomer specific device, and four sides bullet (bidirectional elastic) suede nap is still in the research exploratory stage at present.
Summary of the invention
Technical problem to be solved by this invention is to overcome deficiency of the prior art and provide a kind of suitability for industrialized production simple and feasible, and raw material is easy to get, and cost is low, the production method of the bidirectional elastic flock suede fabric of good product quality.
The technical scheme that the present invention solves the problems of the technologies described above employing is: the production method of this bidirectional elastic flock suede fabric, its characteristics are to may further comprise the steps successively: material choice, weft knitting obtain that weft-knitted grey cloth, grey cloth cut across, openpore formalizes, open fibre, oven dry setting, first fluffing, shorn velvet, dyeing, preboarding, back fluffing, shorn velvet, napping, finished product formalize and obtain finished product.
Raw material warp thread of the present invention is selected DTY sea-island composite fiber long filament, and specification is 105 D/36 * 36F, and PTT elastomer long filament, and specification is 50～75 D/36～72 F.
72 line * 28 pins and purl stitchs are adopted in weft knitting of the present invention, and the machine upper density is 22 stringers/cm～23 stringers/cm.
Openpore setting temperature of the present invention is 155 ℃, and cloth speed is 55 meters/minute, grey cloth shrinkage 5～8%; The temperature of oven dry setting is 150 ℃, and cloth speed is 60 meters/minute, grey cloth shrinkage 2～4%; The preboarding temperature is 155～165 ℃, and cloth speed is 55 meters/minute, grey cloth shrinkage 4～6%; The finished product setting temperature is 165～175 ℃, and the speed of a motor vehicle is 45～55 meters/minute, fabric shrinkage 2～5%.
The fibre prescription of opening of the present invention is NaOH30g/L * 1.2, chelated dispersants 8Kg/ cylinder, acetic acid 4Kg/ cylinder, under 20 ℃-30 ℃ room temperature, add NaOH, put into grey cloth, be warming up to 60 ℃ and kept 10 minutes with 2 ℃/minute, be warming up to 95 ℃ and kept 90 minutes with 1.5 ℃/minute then, then be cooled to 80 ℃ with 1-1.5 ℃/minute, reduce to room temperature with 2-3 ℃/minute at last, grey cloth is after opening fibre, earlier in 70 ℃ of solution that contain acetic acid 1g/L, wash 10min, use flushing with clean water then, make its pH value 6.5～7.0.
In fluffing earlier of the present invention and the back fluffing technology, the cylinder rotating speed increases gradually and is controlled at 78～82 rev/mins, 12～13 meters/minute of cloth speed, fluffing intensity is along 40～60 rev/mins of porcupine rollers, 25～30 rev/mins of contrary porcupine rollers, preceding fabric guide roll tension force 1.0%, back fabric guide roll tension force 1.5%, last fabric guide roll tension force 2.0%.
Shorn velvet cloth speed control of the present invention is built in 12～15 meters/minute, cropping number of times 1～2 time, and the dise knife rotating speed is 800～850 rev/mins, and cropping is spaced first big after small, cuts short required villus length one by one, and villus length is controlled in the 1mm the most at last.
Sanding of the present invention adopts sand roll-type roughing-up machine, is coating the rubber of 180 ° of granularities on the described sand roll-type roughing-up machine, and cloth speed is 20～30 meters/minute.
Dyeing equipment choosing overflow dyeing machine of the present invention, DISPERSE DYES ACE orchid 0.06% (owf), red 0.15% (owf) of ACE, ACE Huang 0.4% (owf), ultra-fine levelling agent 4Kg/ cylinder, glacial acetic acid 1.8Kg/ cylinder, pH value 4.5～5, under 20 ℃-30 ℃ room temperature, add the dye well auxiliary agent, put into cloth, slowly be warming up to 60 ℃, be warming up to 110 ℃ with 2 ℃/minute then, then be warming up to 135 ℃ with 1.5 ℃/minute, kept 40 minutes, and be cooled to 115 ℃ with 1.5 ℃/minute then, be cooled to 80 ℃ with 2 ℃/minute, be cooled to 60 ℃ at last, wash out machine.
The present invention compared with prior art has the following advantages:
1, raw material is easy to get.The chamois leather appearance effect of bidirectional elastic flock suede fabric product of the present invention adopts island superfine fiber to do to form through the dyeing and finishing special finishing after the braiding of raw material longitude and latitude is made again, and the favorable elasticity of this flock suede product then comes from the fabric through the PTT of broadwise (50～75 D/36～72 F) elastomer.Island superfine fiber is a kind of novel superfine fibre, be called matrix fibril fiber type again, it is a kind of polymolecular system, two kinds of component spinning of general employing, a kind of component is dispersed in the another kind of component, just as the island is dispersed in the sea, by handling the component of removing the sea, the fiber that makes in this way only stays the component on island, so can reach the fineness of (0.5～0.001) dtex.Ptt fiber is the english abbreviation of polytrimethylene terephthalate (Polytrimethylene Tereph-Thalate).The fabric of being made by ptt fiber has comfortableness, durability and easy maintenance property.This fiber combines the advantage of nylon and polyester, therefore has exclusive comfortableness and extensibility, has resilient durability preferably by its fabric of making, good bulkiness, smooth feel, chromatic colour and good drapability.What warp thread of the present invention adopted is island superfine fiber long filament and PTT (50～75 D/36～72 F) the elastomer long filament of DTY 105 D/36 * 36F.The production and processing of these two kinds of raw materials has all realized production domesticization at present, and just can purchase on local raw materials market, so the raw material supply of this product is secure.
2, adopting sea-island composite fiber DTY 105 D/36 * 36 F and PTT elastomer (50～75 D/36～72 F are hit by a bullet) among the present invention is raw material, develop have brand-new style weft-knitted bidirectional elastic flock suede fabric.This product has overcome in the past through compiling or the relatively poor shortcoming of weft-knitted pile fabrics warp-wise elasticity, through, broadwise good springiness, has the characteristics of natural suede nap, soft exquisiteness, specific area is big, and is ventilative, wet and waterproof, grease proofness are good thoroughly, high-hydroscopicity and adsorptivity, compact structure, nappiness is good.In addition, this product adopts the substitute of ptt fiber as spandex, does not need special device in the braiding process, all can weave on general machine.
3, the bidirectional elastic flock suede fabric product fine hair style of production method production of the present invention is superior: fabric face fine hair is short, close, even, and is not show-through, and the style and features of suede nap fine hair is arranged, and product has high-grade sense.
4, the bidirectional elastic flock suede fabric product fastness of production method production of the present invention is higher: general flock suede product requirement finished product brute force is greater than 250N, the powerful warp-wise of this flock suede product can reach 510N, broadwise can reach more than the 320N, can satisfy the fastness requirement that the purposes textiles such as spins in clothes and family.
5, the bidirectional elastic flock suede fabric product ABRASION RESISTANCE of production method production of the present invention is better: it is intact that the weft knitting four sides plays flock suede fabric matte fine hair, no depilation phenomenon, ABRASION RESISTANCE is up to more than 20000 times, only in place that indivedual local pressures are concentrated slightly villous come off.
6, the bidirectional elastic flock suede fabric product dyefastness of production method production of the present invention is higher: the dyefastness that weft-knitted four sides plays the flock suede product is higher, and color fastness to washing, colour fastness to rubbing all can reach 4～5 grades.
7, the bidirectional elastic flock suede fabric product of production method production of the present invention has trickle wet-milling sense, the outward appearance exquisiteness, gloss is soft, soft, drapability reaches natural fabric fine and closely woven velvet can't be obtained and " writing " effect well and has radiation proof, antistatic, anti-fire-retardant, resistant to pollution function, and value has a wide range of applications in product development such as is spun at by house ornamentation, family's decorations, family.
Description of drawings
Fig. 1 is an institutional framework free state schematic diagram of the present invention.
Fig. 2 is an institutional framework longitudinal stretching schematic diagram of the present invention.
Fig. 3 is COPET solubility property schematic diagram in the sea-island composite fiber of the present invention.
Fig. 4 is a fiber opening process curve map of the present invention.
Fig. 5 is the present invention heating curve figure that dyes.
Fig. 6 is a production method flow chart of the present invention.
The specific embodiment
Production method of the present invention as shown in Figure 6, each step is specific as follows:
One, the selection of raw material
The suede nap grey cloth need could can form the matte with opaque sense through the arrangement of a series of back, presents " writing effect ", and this selection with suede yarn raw material is relevant.Base cloth formation as weft-knitted suede nap should be by two aspect requirements, and one needs institutional framework closely, and fiber requires monofilament thicker, and the ground tissue adopts the high-shrinkage fibre effect better.Its two, the fabric matte requires to select for use the thinner fiber of filament number.The fine hair radical on SUEDE FABRIC surface is many more, and fiber number is thin more, and appearance of fabrics emulation sense is strong more, and the relation of filament number and suede nap effect is shown in table 1-1:
The relation of table 1-1 filament number and suede nap effect
From the beginning of the seventies in last century till now, the raw material that suede nap adopted also changes to some extent.Before the eighties, the raw material that suede nap suede yarn adopts is 100 D/36 F processing silk and 50 D/24 F polyester filaments.The raw material of selecting for use now are generally superfine fibre, as the islands-in-sea type fibre of Japan or Korea S's product.Islands-in-sea type fibre is that two kinds of different high polymers are carried out melt spinning by twin-screw composite spinning machine and special spinning pack, a kind of component is distributed in another component orderlyly, be formed with many continuous microfilaments of rule, sea component is molten go after, remaining island component fibre fiber number is especially little.Theoretically, to certain solvent, as long as sea component is easily molten, island component indissoluble or insolublely just can.But also need consider the factors such as toxicity, volatility, recovery method and equipment of solvent during practical application, select polystyrene in the past for use, heavy contamination, generally selecting water-soluble polyester now for use is sea component (COPET).For example PET (polyester) is scattered among the COPET (water-soluble polyester).Decentralized photo PET is the state that " island " state parent water-soluble polyester then is equivalent to " sea " in the fibre section.By post processing sea component is dissolved, the remaining superfine fibre that is one-component can make the following superfine fibre of 0.2dtex, the thinnest 0.001dtex that reaches.Islands-in-sea type fibre has than soft hand feeling and fastness to light preferably, and available a kind of dyestuff dyes; But the stiffness and the bulkiness of fabric are relatively poor.
The superfine fibre that also has a kind of tangerine lobe type in addition, it is formed by two kinds of immiscible condensates, and the multiply heterogeneity is come out from a spinning nozzle simultaneously in the melt, and is minimum through every rhizoid fiber number of splitting after handling.Tangerine lobe type superfine fibre has higher density, enough bulkiness, stiffness preferably, does not have thick and heavy sense.But its drapability and fastness to light are relatively poor, and the incompatibility stamp.
The simple sea-island composite fiber that adopts is that the flock suede fabric elasticity that makes of raw material is relatively poor, therefore has producer to attempt introducing elastomers such as spandex in recent years in grey cloth.In general, elastomers such as spandex are in the braiding process, inhomogeneous and influence the quality of stockinette for fear of the elongation of the accident of spandex silk and tension force, the spandex silk must adopt special-purpose fixed-length positive formula line feeding device to give yarn, simultaneously the defeated line tension of spandex silk is controlled in strictness well when giving yarn, has certain degree of difficulty when implementing suitability for industrialized production.
In the present invention, we adopt sea-island composite fiber DTY 105 D/36 * 36F and PTT elastomer (50～75 D/36～72 F are hit by a bullet) is raw material, develop have brand-new style weft knitting four sides play flock suede fabric.This product has overcome in the past through compiling or the relatively poor shortcoming of weft-knitted pile fabrics warp-wise elasticity, through, broadwise good springiness, has the characteristics of natural suede nap, soft exquisiteness, specific area is big, and is ventilative, wet and waterproof, grease proofness are good thoroughly, high-hydroscopicity and adsorptivity, compact structure, nappiness is good.
Two, the weaving of institutional framework design and grey cloth
72 line * 28 pins and purl stitchs of grey cloth system's employing of the present invention, as shown in Figure 1 and Figure 2, positive row and purl loop line, the weft organization that mutual alternate configurations forms.This product machine upper density generally is controlled at 22 stringers/cm～23 stringers/cm.
Three, dyeing and finishing processing method
The dyeing and finishing processing method flow process of weft knitting suede nap fabric is: weft-knitted grey cloth → grey cloth cuts across → and the openpore fibre → oven dry setting → elder generation fluffing → shorn velvet → dyeing → preboarding → back fluffing → shorn velvet → napping → finished product setting → finished product that formalizes → open
Below introduce the main dyeing and finishing processing method of weft-knitted suede nap fabric:
1, thermosetting process
In the dyeing and finishing processing method of weft-knitted suede nap fabric, four road heat setting operations are arranged, be respectively openpore setting, oven dry setting, preboarding and finished product setting.The purpose of openpore setting is to make the grey cloth surfacing, improves later process and opens the fine uniformity.The temperature of openpore setting is generally grasped at 155 ℃, and cloth speed is 55 meters/minute, and it is 5 ~ 8% comparatively suitable that the grey cloth shrinkage is controlled at.
The heat setting of grey cloth after opening fibre is called the oven dry setting, and the purpose of oven dry setting is to improve the level-dyeing property of grey cloth, reduces look flower, color spot phenomenon.The temperature of oven dry setting is grasped at 150 ℃, and cloth speed is 60 meters/minute, and the grey cloth shrinkage is advisable between being controlled at 2 ~ 4%.
Since grey cloth through open fine and fluffing arrangement rear surface become uneven very, a door width of cloth differs, therefore before the fluffing of back, must carry out preboarding and handle, with a control fabric weight and a door width of cloth.Temperature can not be too high during preboarding, only needs the various wrinkles of cloth cover are removed, and make cloth cover very flat, and the width of cloth is consistent gets final product for door, otherwise superfine fibre is because of being subjected to temperatures involved, and its molecular structure changes and is difficult to napping.General temperature is comparatively suitable between 155～165 ℃, and cloth speed is 55 meters/minute, and the grey cloth shrinkage is controlled between 4 ~ 6%, and can be suitably high for the temperature of finished product setting, is generally 165～175 ℃.The speed of a motor vehicle is 45 ~ 55 meters/minute, and overfeeding is bigger, and it is 2 ~ 5% comparatively suitable that the fabric shrinkage is controlled at.Test shows that the grey cloth matte fluffing effect after handling through above-mentioned setting is relatively good, even, and dyed arrangement back is bright-colored, and coloured light is good.
2, fiber opening process
Sea-island composite fiber is after making fabric sea component to be dissolved, and stay the island component and form the superfine fibre fabric, so the solubility property of sea component is most important to the effect of weft-knitted suede nap.The dissolving of COPET in water meets the rule of dissolving after the first swelling.The composition of COPET, structure, molecular weight and external condition is all to being dissolved with certain influence, and external condition to the influence of the dissolving of COPET as shown in Figure 3.
Curve 1 is the dissolving of water-soluble polyester in 95 ℃ hot water.It is earlier based on swelling, after reaching certain solubility, then to be dissolved as the master.
The dissolving situation that curve 2 is a water-soluble polyester in 95 ℃, the 0.5%NaOH aqueous solution, it also has a swelling course of dissolution, but swelling is slower, and dissolving is last to also have residue.This may be because Na
+, OH
-The existence of ion has destroyed the dissolution equilibrium of high polymer, makes dissolution velocity become slower, and NaOH also can produce reaction with some compositions in the polymer in addition, generates precipitation.
Curve 3 for water-soluble polyester 95 ℃, contain the dissolving situation in the 0.5%NaOH and the 1L/g 1227 promoter aqueous solution, owing in water, added 1227 surfactants, thereby hydrolysis has also taken place in water-soluble polyester surface in swelling, become micromolecule and promoted the carrying out of hydrolysis, make enhanced dissolution rate, and can control dissolution velocity according to the percentage composition that different situations are adjusted NaOH.
Fiber opening process carries out in alkaline solution, this dissolving fully to sea component is no doubt favourable, but also can produce certain hydrolysis to conventional PET island fiber, thereby islands-in-sea type fibre will reach the dissolving fully of sea component, its weight-loss ratio is bigger slightly than the ratio of sea component.If the sea component ratio is 20% o'clock, the weight-loss ratio of islands-in-sea type fibre generally will be controlled at about 22%～30%, and sea component could dissolve fully.Fiber opening process curve of the present invention as shown in Figure 4.
Open fine prescription: NaOH:30g/L * 1.2, chelated dispersants: 8Kg/ cylinder, acetic acid: 4Kg/ cylinder.Under 20 ℃-30 ℃ room temperature, add NaOH, put into grey cloth, be warming up to 60 ℃ and kept 10 minutes with 2 ℃/minute, be warming up to 95 ℃ and kept 90 minutes with 1.5 ℃/minute then, then be cooled to 80 ℃, reduce to room temperature with 2-3 ℃/minute at last with 1-1.5 ℃/minute.Grey cloth must fully be washed before dyeing after fiber opening process, and it is big that the water yield is wanted, for the alkali lye on the grey cloth will fully be neutralized, earlier in 70 ℃ of solution that contain acetic acid 1g/L, wash 10min, use flushing with clean water then, make its pH value in 6.5～7.0 these scopes.If washing is not enough, residual alkali and fiber impurity are trapped on the cloth, easily cause dyeing look flower.Dyeing course has very big influence to the fabric shrinkage except catching color and luster, simul relation is to the smooth continuation of the density and the later process of fabric.
3, fluffing technology
Fluffing is strong and weak should to adapt substantially with the required fluffing power of fabric, and the number of times that then fluffs a little less than crossing increases, and it is irregular to produce fluffing, and crossing by force then, fabric strength sharply descends.Our way is an approximate velocity scope of determining fluffing by testing, then according to going out a mao situation, cooperates the adjusting of face tension to carry out suitable adjustment.In the process of whole fluffing, follow the technological design principle of " to heavy, growing from weak to strong " substantially by light.Fluffing technology after the optimization comprises two ones of fluffing earlier and back fluffings, adopts the fluffing of 4 roads altogether, and fluffing speed increases gradually, and concrete technology is shown in Table 2.
The fluffing technology of the weft-knitted suede nap of table 2
4, shorn velvet and sanding
Because fluffing back fabric face villus length is uneven, therefore must carry out shorn velvet.Shorn velvet is a kind ofly to make fabric face produce the process of smooth fine hair by mechanism.Cloth speed generally is controlled at 12 ~ 15 meters/minute, and the cropping number of times adopts 1 ~ 2 time, and the dise knife rotating speed is 800 ~ 850 rev/mins, and cropping is spaced first big after small, cuts short required villus length one by one, and villus length is controlled in the 1mm the most at last.
Napping also is a kind ofly to make fabric face produce the process of smooth fine hair by mechanism.It is at certain force of strain and pressure and advance under the control of cloth speed to enter the sanding district with imitative chamois leather weft knitting grey cloth, under the sand roller effect of high speed rotating, by means of sharp sand grains, the grinding fabric makes the gigging planar coil produce fracture and forms the tapetum finishing technique with directionality lodging.The napping arrangement is the important process operation that flock suede is produced, and is very big to fabric matte emulation influence.The sanding of fabric is organized on the sand roll-type roughing-up machine to be carried out.
Coating the rubber of 180 ° of granularities on sand roll-type roughing-up machine, each sand roller is separately-driven, can rotate and reverse, and the cloth cover gait of march is decided by Fabric Style, generally is controlled at 20 ~ 30 meters/minute.Dancer rools or pressure roller are equipped with in sand roller top, are used for regulating the contact condition of fabric and sand roller, with control sand roller sand milling degree.
5, dyeing
Dyeing is the important step that embodies suede nap style and characteristic.Because the superfine fibre surface area is bigger, dye-uptake just has faster since 40 ℃ to be increased, and there is not tangible turning point in the fibrous glass temperature to adsorption rate, just dyestuff is adsorbed in a large number by fiber surface, do not infilter fibrous inside, fabric face grows dim, and it is inhomogeneous to dye.For overcoming this weakness, dyeing installation is selected overflow dyeing machine for use.Dye from low temperature beginning, slowly heat up, control dye-uptake well, formulate and reasonably heat up and reinforced program and moving of low-temperature space and high-temperature region dyed temperature controlled.
The heating rate and the temperature of strict control dyeing low-temperature space make dye liquor fully mobile during dyeing, and it is lower 10～20 ℃ than conventional fibre that the beginning is dyed temperature, and slowly intensification adapts the dyestuff and the fiber surface rate of adsorption.Be warming up to 90～95 ℃, and the insulation certain hour is beneficial to level dyeing, makes dyestuff slowly enter fibrous inside diffusion set.DISPERSE DYES, ACE orchid 0.06% (owf), red 0.15% (owf) of ACE, ACE Huang 0.4% (owf), ultra-fine levelling agent: 4Kg/ cylinder, glacial acetic acid: 1.8Kg/ cylinder, pH value 4.5～5 are adopted in dyeing.
The dyeing heating curve as shown in Figure 5, under 20 ℃-30 ℃ room temperature, add the dye well auxiliary agent, put into cloth, slowly be warming up to 60 ℃, be warming up to 110 ℃ with 2 ℃/minute then, then be warming up to 135 ℃ with 1.5 ℃/minute, kept 40 minutes, and be cooled to 115 ℃ with 1.5 ℃/minute then, be cooled to 80 ℃ with 2 ℃/minute, be cooled to 60 ℃ at last, wash out machine.
Sometimes, need carry out back arrangement (as the polyurethane arrangement) for making fabric have good leather sense.In the solvent borne polyurethane arrangement, solvent has certain effect of stripping to DISPERSE DYES, be that look shoals, general aberration is about 0.5～1.5 grade, therefore when definite color and luster and dyeing, can on the basis of positive usual amounts, improve 5%～10%, want strict control programming rate (60 ℃～130 ℃) in addition, temperature retention time is not less than 45min, and the best is 60min.
Suede nap fabric in use is subjected to effects such as different physics, machinery and chemistry and is destroyed gradually.In the ordinary course of things, the effect of mechanical force is main.The tension failure brute force of fabric both can be used for weighing the durability of suede nap fabric, also can adopt bursting strength to weigh its strength and extension property.According to the experimental test result, technical indicators such as the tension failure brute force of the suede nap that this enterprise succeeds in developing, pellet shot from a slingshot bursting strength, dyefastness, color fastness to washing, colour fastness to rubbing all can reach the Grade A level.
Adopt the test result of the flock suede fabric performance that the production method of bidirectional elastic flock suede fabric of the present invention produces to see Table 3.
The test result of the weft-knitted suede nap fabric performance of table 3
Claims (9)
1, a kind of production method of bidirectional elastic flock suede fabric is characterized in that may further comprise the steps successively: material choice, weft knitting obtain that weft-knitted grey cloth, grey cloth cut across, openpore formalizes, open fibre, oven dry setting, first fluffing, shorn velvet, dyeing, preboarding, back fluffing, shorn velvet, napping, finished product formalize and obtain finished product.
2, the production method of bidirectional elastic flock suede fabric according to claim 1, it is characterized in that: described raw material warp thread is selected DTY sea-island composite fiber long filament, specification is 105D/36 * 36F, and PTT elastomer long filament, and specification is 50～75D/36～72F.
3, the production method of bidirectional elastic flock suede fabric according to claim 1 is characterized in that: 72 line * 28 pins and purl stitchs are adopted in described weft knitting, and the machine upper density is 22 stringers/cm～23 stringers/cm.
4, the production method of bidirectional elastic flock suede fabric according to claim 1 is characterized in that: described openpore setting temperature is 155 ℃, and cloth speed is 55 meters/minute, grey cloth shrinkage 5～8%; The temperature of oven dry setting is 150 ℃, and cloth speed is 60 meters/minute, grey cloth shrinkage 2～4%; The preboarding temperature is 155～165 ℃, and cloth speed is 55 meters/minute, grey cloth shrinkage 4～6%; The finished product setting temperature is 165～175 ℃, and the speed of a motor vehicle is 45～55 meters/minute, fabric shrinkage 2～5%.
5, the production method of bidirectional elastic flock suede fabric according to claim 1, it is characterized in that: the described fibre prescription of opening is NaOH30g/L * 1.2, chelated dispersants 8Kg/ cylinder, acetic acid 4Kg/ cylinder, under 20 ℃-30 ℃ room temperature, add NaOH, put into grey cloth, be warming up to 60 ℃ and kept 10 minutes with 2 ℃/minute, be warming up to 95 ℃ and kept 90 minutes with 1.5 ℃/minute then, then be cooled to 80 ℃ with 1-1.5 ℃/minute, reduce to room temperature with 2-3 ℃/minute at last, grey cloth is after opening fibre, earlier in 70 ℃ of solution that contain acetic acid 1g/L, wash 10min, use flushing with clean water then, make its pH value 6.5～7.0.
6, the production method of bidirectional elastic flock suede fabric according to claim 1, it is characterized in that: in described fluffing earlier and the back fluffing technology, the cylinder rotating speed increases gradually and is controlled at 78～82 rev/mins, 12～13 meters/minute of cloth speed, fluffing intensity is along 40～60 rev/mins of porcupine rollers, against 25～30 rev/mins of porcupine rollers, preceding fabric guide roll tension force 1.0%, back fabric guide roll tension force 1.5%, last fabric guide roll tension force 2.0%.
7, the production method of bidirectional elastic flock suede fabric according to claim 1, it is characterized in that: described shorn velvet cloth speed control is built in 12～15 meters/minute, cropping number of times 1～2 time, the dise knife rotating speed is 800～850 rev/mins, cropping is spaced first big after small, cut short required villus length one by one, villus length is controlled in the 1mm the most at last.
8, the production method of bidirectional elastic flock suede fabric according to claim 1 is characterized in that: described sanding adopts sand roll-type roughing-up machine, is coating the rubber of 180 ° of granularities on the described sand roll-type roughing-up machine, and cloth speed is 20～30 meters/minute.
9, the production method of bidirectional elastic flock suede fabric according to claim 1, it is characterized in that: described dyeing equipment choosing overflow dyeing machine, DISPERSE DYES ACE orchid 0.06% (owf), red 0.15% (owf) of ACE, ACE Huang 0.4% (owf), ultra-fine levelling agent 4Kg/ cylinder, glacial acetic acid 1.8Kg/ cylinder, pH value 4.5～5 adds the dye well auxiliary agent under 20 ℃-30 ℃ room temperature, put into cloth, slowly be warming up to 60 ℃, be warming up to 110 ℃ with 2 ℃/minute then, then be warming up to 135 ℃, kept 40 minutes with 1.5 ℃/minute, be cooled to 115 ℃ with 1.5 ℃/minute then, be cooled to 80 ℃ with 2 ℃/minute, be cooled to 60 ℃ at last, wash out machine.
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