CN103114472B - Method for carrying out stone washing on soft coarse-wooled fabric - Google Patents
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种石洗柔软粗毛纺织物的方法,旨在提供一种表面磨白、褪色、清爽自然绒毛少,织物富有弹性,手感柔软,色泽正反面有较大的反差,有复古怀旧感的石洗柔软粗毛纺织物的方法。其特征依次包括有对纤维的丝光处理、纺制纱线、纺织面料、固化防缩处理、成衣、染色、石洗服装、烘干整理。该方法通过前期的两次防缩处理和选用浸透蛋白酶和去污剂的火山石石洗,成功控制通常毛纺面料用砂洗缩绒严重的弊端,而又有效防止在做旧过程中对面料的过度损伤,延长服装的使用寿命。The invention discloses a method for stone-washing soft coarse woolen fabrics, aiming to provide a fabric with whitened surface, faded color, fresh and natural fluff, rich in elasticity, soft to the touch, large contrast between the front and back of the color and luster, and retro nostalgia Sensitive stonewashing method of soft shag fabric. Its features sequentially include mercerizing treatment of fibers, spinning yarns, textile fabrics, curing and anti-shrinkage treatment, garments, dyeing, stone washing of garments, and drying and finishing. This method successfully controls the serious disadvantages of sand washing and shrinkage of woolen fabrics through the two anti-shrinkage treatments in the early stage and the selection of volcanic stone washing soaked in protease and detergent, and effectively prevents the damage to the fabric during the aging process. Excessive damage prolongs the life of the garment.
Description
技术领域 technical field
本发明涉及毛纺织产品,尤其涉及石洗柔软粗毛纺织物的方法。 The present invention relates to woolen textile products, and in particular to a method for stonewashing soft coarse woolen fabrics.
背景技术 Background technique
随着物质生活水平的提高,广大消费者对粗纺毛织物面料服装产品的质量及服用性能的要求不再局限于保暖,消费者既需要舒适,更追求多样化、个性化和有特色的产品。如复古怀旧风格的牛仔裤,特意制成臀部和膝盖处褪色,甚至磨破的状态,这种的做法通常是采用褪色剂、砂洗等专用的设备进行处理。而对于用毛纺织物面料做的服装,由于强度比牛仔裤的面料低许多,尤其是毛纺织物收缩太大,因此无法采用通常类似于做牛仔裤的方法来对毛纺织物面料做的服装进行做旧处理。 With the improvement of material living standards, consumers' requirements for the quality and wearing performance of woolen fabric clothing products are no longer limited to keeping warm. Consumers not only need comfort, but also pursue diversified, personalized and distinctive products. For example, retro nostalgic style jeans are specially made to be faded or even worn out at the hips and knees. This method is usually treated with special equipment such as fading agents and sand washing. For clothes made of woolen fabric, because the strength is much lower than that of jeans, especially the shrinkage of woolen fabric is too large, it is impossible to use the method similar to making jeans to carry out old-fashioned treatment on the clothes made of woolen fabric.
发明内容 Contents of the invention
本发明的目的在于提供一种表面磨白、褪色、清爽自然绒毛少,织物富有弹性,手感柔软,色泽正反面有较大的反差,有复古怀旧感的石洗柔软粗毛纺织物的方法。 The object of the present invention is to provide a method for stone-washing soft coarse woolen fabrics with whitened surface, faded color, fresh and natural fluff, elastic fabric, soft handle, large color contrast between front and back, and retro nostalgic feeling.
为了达到上述要求,石洗柔软粗毛纺织物的方法:其特征依次包括有对纤维的丝光处理、纺制纱线、纺织面料、固化防缩处理、成衣、染色、石洗服装、烘干整理,具体处理的工艺是: In order to meet the above requirements, the method of stone-washing soft coarse woolen fabrics: its features include in turn the mercerizing treatment of fibers, spinning yarns, textile fabrics, curing and anti-shrinkage treatment, garments, dyeing, stone-washing clothes, drying finishing, The specific processing technology is:
(1)丝光处理:对需要制成做旧毛纺织面料的纤维进行丝光处理,剥去纤维表面的鳞片; (1) Mercerizing treatment: Mercerizing the fibers that need to be made into old wool textile fabrics, and peeling off the scales on the surface of the fibers;
(2)纺制纱线、织成面料:用剥去表面鳞片的纤维按粗纺方法纺制纱线、将纱线织成面料; (2) Spinning yarns and weaving fabrics: using fibers stripped of surface scales to spin yarns and weaving yarns into fabrics according to the woolen method;
(3)对面料进行固化防缩处理,处理工艺: (3) Curing and anti-shrinkage treatment of the fabric, treatment process:
处理液配比→常温下面料在处理液中两浸两轧,轧余率70%→加热到120℃,保温6min 预烘→升温到140℃,保温4min焙烘→降到室温; Ratio of treatment liquid → two dips and two rollings of the fabric in the treatment liquid at room temperature, the excess rate is 70% → heating to 120°C, keeping warm for 6 minutes Pre-baking → heating up to 140°C, holding for 4 minutes and baking → lowering to room temperature;
其中处理液配比按每升水的用量:用水溶性聚氨酯羊毛防缩剂,用量100-150g/L、NaHCO3用量3-6g/L、脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚渗透剂1.5g/L; Among them, the proportion of treatment liquid is based on the amount per liter of water: water-soluble polyurethane wool anti-shrinkage agent, the amount is 100-150g/L, the amount of NaHCO3 is 3-6g/L, and the amount of fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene ether penetrating agent is 1.5g/L;
(4)成衣:用防缩处理过的面料根据要求制成服装; (4) Ready-made garments: fabrics that have been treated with anti-shrinkage are used to make garments according to requirements;
(5)染色: 选用中性染料、80%浓度的醋酸0.8-1.2%、硫酸钠4.5-5.5%,浴比1∶10~20染色,使中性染料尽量在表面上色,控制染料不深入织物的纱线内部; pH值4.5-5促染,快速升高温度2.5℃/分钟,始染温度55℃,保温温度85℃,保温时间8-12分钟,织物的皂洗色牢度控制在2.5级之内; (5) Dyeing: Use neutral dyes, 80% concentration of acetic acid 0.8-1.2%, sodium sulfate 4.5-5.5%, bath ratio 1:10-20 for dyeing, so that the neutral dyes can be colored on the surface as much as possible, and the dyes will not penetrate deeply. The inside of the yarn of the fabric; the pH value is 4.5-5 to promote dyeing, the rapid temperature increase is 2.5°C/min, the initial dyeing temperature is 55°C, the holding temperature is 85°C, and the holding time is 8-12 minutes. The soaping color fastness of the fabric is controlled at Within level 2.5;
(6)石洗服装: (6) Stone-washed clothing:
石洗介质的选择:选用大小30-50mm的火山石,火山石指标:比重0.3-0.4g/cm3、吸水率50%-60%、气孔体积占火山石体积50%以上; Selection of stone washing medium: choose volcanic stone with a size of 30-50mm, volcanic stone index: specific gravity 0.3-0.4g/cm 3 , water absorption rate 50%-60%, pore volume accounting for more than 50% of volcanic stone volume;
火山石的浸泡:将干燥的火山石浸泡在蛋白酶和去污剂的水溶液中1-2小时,并搅拌使火山石充分吸收水溶液,其中蛋白酶用量为每公斤织物0.4-0.6克,去污剂用量为每公斤织物0.25-0.35克,水与蛋白酶的重量比为4.5-5.5∶1; Soaking of volcanic stone: Soak the dry volcanic stone in the aqueous solution of protease and detergent for 1-2 hours, and stir to make the volcanic stone fully absorb the aqueous solution. The amount of protease is 0.4-0.6 grams per kilogram of fabric, and the amount of detergent It is 0.25-0.35 grams per kilogram of fabric, and the weight ratio of water and protease is 4.5-5.5: 1;
石洗在大型卧式工业洗衣机中进行,具体工艺如下: Stone washing is carried out in a large horizontal industrial washing machine, the specific process is as follows:
服装浸湿:将服装浸泡在温水中,水浴比1∶10,水温45℃,浸泡8-12分钟→加入溶液浸泡过的火山石:火山石用量每公斤织物40-60克,→开启洗衣机开始搅拌石洗,并升温,升温速度1℃/分钟,至62-67℃,石洗12-16分钟→自然降温到55℃,石洗25-35分钟→升温到72-77℃,石洗8-12分钟→取出火山石→加清水一次清洗,降温到35-40℃,浴比1∶25,清洗8-12分钟→加清水二次清洗:降温到30-35℃,浴比1∶25,清洗12-16分钟→脱水出缸; Garment soaking: Soak the garment in warm water, water-to-bath ratio 1:10, water temperature 45°C, soak for 8-12 minutes → add the volcanic stone soaked in the solution: the amount of volcanic stone is 40-60 grams per kilogram of fabric, → turn on the washing machine and start Stir and stone wash, and heat up, heating rate 1°C/min, to 62-67°C, stone wash for 12-16 minutes → naturally cool down to 55°C, stone wash for 25-35 minutes → heat up to 72-77°C, stone wash 8 -12 minutes→take out the volcanic stone→clean with water once, cool down to 35-40°C, bath ratio 1:25, wash for 8-12 minutes→add water for second wash: cool down to 30-35°C, bath ratio 1:25 , wash for 12-16 minutes → dehydrate out of the tank;
(7)烘干整理:对石洗后的服装按常规方法进行烘干和熨烫整理成成品。 (7) Drying and finishing: dry and iron the stone-washed garments according to conventional methods to form finished products.
所述的蛋白酶为木瓜蛋白酶。 Described protease is papain.
所述的粗毛纺织物所用的纤维为羊毛。 The fiber used in the coarse woolen fabric is wool.
用该石洗柔软粗毛纺织物的方法,由于采用了纺纱前纤维的丝光处理,剥去纤维表面的鳞片,使得纤维表面变得平滑,呈椭圆状,当纤维相互摩擦时,失去鳞片的纤维缩绒性将大大降低,从而提高了面料的防缩性能。另外在面料上采用M-501羊毛防缩剂处理,加固了纤维间的稳定性,使织物固化定型,对较低紧度的织物在石洗柔软中保持纱线结构相对稳定,不滑移、转动,从而在石洗过程中只磨表面,又能增加石洗的效率。在做旧的方式中采用先配置溶液,再把火山石浸泡在配置的溶液内,让火山石浸透溶液,用经浸透蛋白酶和去污剂的火山石石洗,使其在石洗中缓慢释放蛋白酶和去污剂。蛋白酶有分解蛋白质的功能,同时控制温度发挥蛋白酶的效能,使面料表面的绒毛稀少。在石洗过程中,用具有一定粗糙度和重量合适的火山石,对服装表面进行冲击、搓揉使服装表面磨白、褪色、清爽自然绒毛少,织物富有弹性,手感更加柔软,色泽正反面有较大的反差,有复古怀旧感。该方法通过前期的两次防缩处理和选用浸透蛋白酶和去污剂的火山石石洗,成功控制通常毛纺面料用砂洗缩绒严重的弊端,而又有效防止在做旧过程中对面料的过度损伤,延长服装的使用寿命。 With this method of stone-washing soft coarse woolen fabrics, due to the mercerizing treatment of the fibers before spinning, the scales on the surface of the fibers are peeled off, so that the surface of the fibers becomes smooth and oval. When the fibers rub against each other, the fibers that lose their scales The shrinkage will be greatly reduced, thereby improving the anti-shrinkage performance of the fabric. In addition, the fabric is treated with M-501 wool anti-shrinkage agent, which strengthens the stability between fibers, solidifies and shapes the fabric, and keeps the yarn structure relatively stable in stone-washing softness for fabrics with lower tightness, without slipping, Rotate, so that only the surface is ground during the stone washing process, and the efficiency of stone washing can be increased. In the old way, the solution is prepared first, and then the volcanic stone is soaked in the prepared solution, so that the volcanic stone is soaked in the solution, and the volcanic stone soaked in protease and detergent is used for stone washing, so that it is slowly released in the stone washing protease and detergent. Protease has the function of decomposing protein, and at the same time control the temperature to exert the effect of protease, so that the fluff on the surface of the fabric is scarce. In the process of stone washing, volcanic stones with a certain roughness and appropriate weight are used to impact and knead the surface of the garment to make the surface of the garment white, faded, fresh and natural with less fluff, the fabric is elastic, softer to the touch, and the color is positive and negative. There is a large contrast and a sense of retro nostalgia. This method successfully controls the serious disadvantages of sand washing and shrinkage of woolen fabrics through the two anti-shrinkage treatments in the early stage and the selection of volcanic stone washing soaked in protease and detergent, and effectively prevents the damage to the fabric during the aging process. Excessive damage prolongs the life of the garment.
具体实施方式 Detailed ways
下面通过实施例对本发明作进一步的描述。 The present invention will be further described below by way of examples.
石洗柔软粗毛纺织物的方法:依次包括有对纤维的丝光处理、纺制纱线、纺织面料、固化防缩处理、成衣、染色、石洗服装、烘干整理,具体处理的工艺是: The method of stone-washing soft coarse wool fabrics: sequentially includes mercerizing treatment of fibers, spinning yarns, textile fabrics, curing and anti-shrinkage treatment, garments, dyeing, stone-washing garments, drying and finishing. The specific treatment process is:
(1)防缩丝光处理:对需要制成做旧毛纺织面料的羊毛纤维进行丝光处理,剥去纤维表面的鳞片,防缩丝光处理的工艺: 工艺流程前处理→过氧乙酸剥鳞片处理→水洗→脱氧→水洗→烘干→测试 前处理工艺AEO-9浓度2 g/L,40℃×10 min,浴比1∶50。 脱氧工艺 过氧化氢酶浓度4 g/L,40℃×10 min,浴比1∶50。 (1) Anti-shrinkage mercerizing treatment: Mercerize the wool fibers that need to be made into old wool textile fabrics, and peel off the scales on the fiber surface. Water washing→deoxidation→water washing→drying→test Pretreatment process AEO-9 concentration 2 g/L, 40℃×10 min, liquor ratio 1:50. Deoxygenation process Catalase concentration 4 g/L, 40°C×10 min, bath ratio 1:50.
(2)纺制纱线、织成面料:用剥去表面鳞片的纤维按常规方法纺制纱线、将纱线织成面料; (2) Spinning yarns and weaving fabrics: spinning yarns and weaving yarns into fabrics by conventional methods with fibers stripped of surface scales;
(3)对面料进行固化防缩处理,处理工艺: (3) Curing and anti-shrinkage treatment of the fabric, treatment process:
处理液配比→常温下面料在处理液中两浸两轧,轧余率70%→加热到120℃,保温6min 预烘→升温到140℃,保温4min焙烘→降到室温; Ratio of treatment liquid → two dips and two rollings of the fabric in the treatment liquid at room temperature, the excess rate is 70% → heating to 120°C, keeping warm for 6 minutes Pre-baking → heating up to 140°C, holding for 4 minutes and baking → lowering to room temperature;
其中处理液配比按每升水的用量:用广东德美精细化工股份有限公司生产的水溶性聚氨酯羊毛防缩剂DM-3501,用量100-150g/L、NaHCO3用量3-6g/L、脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚渗透剂1.5g/L; Among them, the proportion of the treatment solution is based on the amount per liter of water: use the water-soluble polyurethane wool anti-shrinkage agent DM-3501 produced by Guangdong Demei Fine Chemical Co., Ltd., the amount is 100-150g/L, the amount of NaHCO3 is 3-6g/L, fat Alcohol polyoxyethylene ether penetrant 1.5g/L;
(4)成衣:用防缩处理过的面料根据要求制成服装; (4) Ready-made garments: fabrics that have been treated with anti-shrinkage are used to make garments according to requirements;
(5)染色: 选用中性染料、80%浓度的醋酸0.8-1.2%、硫酸钠4.5-5.5%,浴比1∶10~20染色,使中性染料尽量在表面上色,控制染料不深入织物的纱线内部; pH值4.5-5促染,快速升高温度2.5℃/分钟,始染温度55℃,保温温度85℃,保温时间8-12分钟,织物的皂洗色牢度控制在2.5级之内; (5) Dyeing: Use neutral dyes, 80% concentration of acetic acid 0.8-1.2%, sodium sulfate 4.5-5.5%, bath ratio 1:10-20 for dyeing, so that the neutral dyes can be colored on the surface as much as possible, and the dyes will not penetrate deeply. The inside of the yarn of the fabric; the pH value is 4.5-5 to promote dyeing, the rapid temperature increase is 2.5°C/min, the initial dyeing temperature is 55°C, the holding temperature is 85°C, and the holding time is 8-12 minutes. The soaping color fastness of the fabric is controlled at Within level 2.5;
(6)石洗服装: (6) Stone-washed clothing:
石洗介质的选择:选用大小30-50mm的火山石,火山石指标:比重0.3-0.4g/cm3、吸水率50%-60%、气孔体积占火山石体积50%以上; Selection of stone washing medium: choose volcanic stone with a size of 30-50mm, volcanic stone index: specific gravity 0.3-0.4g/cm 3 , water absorption rate 50%-60%, pore volume accounting for more than 50% of volcanic stone volume;
火山石的浸泡:将干燥的火山石浸泡在木瓜蛋白酶(Papain)和去污剂的水溶液中1-2小时,并搅拌使火山石充分吸收水溶液,其中木瓜蛋白酶用量为每公斤织物0.4-0.6克;去污剂采用苏州市莱德纺化有限公司生产的低泡特殊精练剂脏污去除剂HLS,用量为每公斤织物0.25-0.35克,水与木瓜蛋白酶的重量比为4.5-5.5∶1; Soaking of volcanic stones: Soak dry volcanic stones in the aqueous solution of papain (Papain) and detergent for 1-2 hours, and stir to make the volcanic stones fully absorb the aqueous solution. The amount of papain is 0.4-0.6 grams per kilogram of fabric The stain remover adopts the low-foaming special scouring agent stain remover HLS produced by Suzhou Layde Textile Co., Ltd., the consumption is 0.25-0.35 grams per kilogram of fabric, and the weight ratio of water and papain is 4.5-5.5: 1;
石洗在大型卧式工业洗衣机中进行,具体工艺如下: Stone washing is carried out in a large horizontal industrial washing machine, the specific process is as follows:
服装浸湿:将服装浸泡在温水中,水浴比1∶10,水温45℃,浸泡8-12分钟→加入溶液浸泡过的火山石:火山石用量每公斤织物40-60克,→开启洗衣机开始搅拌石洗,并升温,升温速度1℃/分钟,至62-67℃,石洗12-16分钟→自然降温到55℃,石洗25-35分钟→升温到72-77℃,石洗8-12分钟→取出火山石→加清水一次清洗,降温到35-40℃,浴比1∶25,清洗8-12分钟→加清水二次清洗:降温到30-35℃,浴比1∶25,清洗12-16分钟→脱水出缸; Garment soaking: Soak the garment in warm water, water-to-bath ratio 1:10, water temperature 45°C, soak for 8-12 minutes → add the volcanic stone soaked in the solution: the amount of volcanic stone is 40-60 grams per kilogram of fabric, → turn on the washing machine and start Stir and stone wash, and heat up, heating rate 1°C/min, to 62-67°C, stone wash for 12-16 minutes → naturally cool down to 55°C, stone wash for 25-35 minutes → heat up to 72-77°C, stone wash 8 -12 minutes→take out the volcanic stone→clean with water once, cool down to 35-40°C, bath ratio 1:25, wash for 8-12 minutes→add water for second wash: cool down to 30-35°C, bath ratio 1:25 , wash for 12-16 minutes → dehydrate out of the tank;
(7)烘干整理:对石洗后的服装按常规方法进行烘干和熨烫,整理成成品。 (7) Drying and finishing: drying and ironing the stone-washed garments according to the conventional method, and finishing them into finished products.
上述未提及的方法、所用材料的品种、用量均以常规方法处理和选用,不再详细叙述。 The methods not mentioned above, the types and amounts of materials used are all processed and selected in conventional methods, and will not be described in detail.
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| CN103952919A (en) * | 2014-05-20 | 2014-07-30 | 湖州福美达纺织有限公司 | Shrinkproof treatment technology for cashmere |
| CN106676640A (en) * | 2016-12-02 | 2017-05-17 | 长兴锦桥纺织有限公司 | Hibiscus cannabinus degumming method suitable for lining fabric |
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| CN109280980A (en) * | 2018-08-13 | 2019-01-29 | 强庭国 | A kind of scattered fine method for preparing raw material of the crudefiber crop of good spinning property |
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Denomination of invention: Method for softening rough woolen fabric Granted publication date: 20141224 Pledgee: Shandong Mengyin Rural Commercial Bank Co.,Ltd. Pledgor: Shandong Shenzhou Wool Textile Co.,Ltd. Registration number: Y2026980001856 |
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