CN103473406B - A device and method for calculating structural parameters of trousers - Google Patents
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Abstract
Description
技术领域technical field
本发明涉及裤装制作领域,具体说是一种裤装板型结构参数计算装置及方法。The invention relates to the field of trousers production, in particular to a device and method for calculating structural parameters of trousers.
背景技术Background technique
现代裤装造型丰富、结构多变,裙裤、宽裆类裤(总裆宽在合体裤和裙裤之间取值)、合体裤、窄裆类裤(总裆宽小于合体裤)等构成了裤装系列造型。合体裤属于西裤类正装,使用频率相对较少,形制也较固定。而宽裆类裤和窄裆类裤却是时尚商务装、休闲生活装的主流造型。总裆宽、后中线倾角、后翘量以及下裆倾角等结构参数,是影响裤装样板的关键技术,其取值必须与体型特点和造型要求相配伍,而其它结构线及轮廓线则可根据裤装造型进行个性化设计。在我国服装裁剪技术领域,传统的比例裁剪法和现代的基本型法,只适合西裤类标准合体造型男、女裤样板结构设计,由于其制式比较固定,其结构参数取值有成熟的经验可寻,还有各种形状的专利裁剪尺可以使用。而宽裆类裤和窄裆类裤样板设计时,其总裆宽、后中线倾角、后翘量以及下裆倾角的取值,目前没有定量的规律关系可寻,很多制衣企业大都根据以往的经验来确定各个参数的取值,致使裤装各结构参数取值不配伍,不仅影响裤子的着装效果,而且影响着装的舒适度。Modern trousers are rich in shape and changeable in structure, consisting of skirt pants, wide crotch pants (the total crotch width is between fitted pants and skirt pants), fitted pants, narrow crotch pants (total crotch width is smaller than fitted pants), etc. The shape of the trousers series. Fitted trousers belong to the formal suit of trousers, which are relatively infrequently used and have a relatively fixed shape. However, wide crotch pants and narrow crotch pants are the mainstream styles of fashionable business wear and casual life wear. Structural parameters such as total crotch width, rear midline inclination, rear warp, and crotch inclination are the key technologies that affect the trousers sample. Personalize according to the shape of the trousers. In the field of clothing cutting technology in my country, the traditional proportional cutting method and the modern basic shape method are only suitable for the standard fit shape of men's and women's trousers model structure design of trousers. Since the system is relatively fixed, the value of its structural parameters has mature experience. It can be found that there are also patented cutting rulers of various shapes that can be used. When designing samples of wide crotch trousers and narrow crotch trousers, there is currently no quantitative relationship to be found for the values of the total crotch width, rear midline inclination, rear warp, and crotch inclination. The value of each parameter is determined by the experience of the trousers, resulting in the incompatibility of the values of the structural parameters of the trousers, which not only affects the dressing effect of the trousers, but also affects the comfort of the trousers.
发明内容Contents of the invention
为了克服上述现有技术存在的缺点,本发明的目的在于:提供一种裤装板型结构参数计算装置及方法,该参数计算装置使参数的确定更加方便快捷,根据该裤装板型结构参数计算方法,不仅参数计算方便,而且能使裤装各结构参数取值配伍。In order to overcome the shortcomings of the above-mentioned prior art, the object of the present invention is to provide a device and method for calculating parameters of trousers panel structure. The parameter calculation device makes the determination of parameters more convenient and quick. The calculation method is not only convenient for parameter calculation, but also can make the value compatibility of each structural parameter of the trousers.
为了解决上述问题,本发明公开的一种裤装板型结构参数计算装置采用以下技术方案,它包括:In order to solve the above-mentioned problems, a device for calculating parameters of trousers panel structure disclosed by the present invention adopts the following technical solutions, which include:
计算处理模块,根据设定程序调用裤装板型数学模型,计算出与人的体型特点和造型要求相配伍的总裆宽、后中线倾角、后翘量以及下裆倾角等结构参数值。The calculation processing module invokes the trousers panel shape mathematical model according to the set program, and calculates the structural parameter values such as total crotch width, rear midline inclination angle, back warp amount, and inseam inclination angle that are compatible with human body shape characteristics and shape requirements.
键盘模块,用于选择男裤模式和女裤模式,以及输入净臀围值和裆臀动态系数;The keyboard module is used to select men's trousers mode and women's trousers mode, and input net hip circumference value and crotch-hip dynamic coefficient;
显示屏,用于显示键盘的输入信息和计算处理模块的输出信息;The display screen is used to display the input information of the keyboard and the output information of the calculation processing module;
电源模块,为计算处理模块和显示模块提供工作电源。The power supply module provides working power for the computing processing module and the display module.
进一步的,所述裤装板型数学模型包括男裤模式数学模型和女裤模式数学模型;Further, the trousers shape mathematical model includes a mathematical model of men's trousers mode and a mathematical model of women's trousers mode;
所述女裤模式数学模型为:Described women's trousers mode mathematical model is:
后中线倾角α与裆臀动态系数K的数学模型α=40-200K,The mathematical model of rear midline inclination α and crotch-hip dynamic coefficient K α=40-200K,
下裆倾角β与裆臀动态系数K的数学模型β=190-950K,The mathematical model of the inclination angle β of the inseam and the dynamic coefficient K of the crotch buttocks β=190-950K,
后翘量h与裆臀动态系数K的数学模型h=3H/16–25KH/24,The mathematical model of the amount of back warping h and the dynamic coefficient K of the crotch buttocks h=3H/16–25KH/24,
其中,K∈(0.13,0.20),H为净臀围值;Among them, K ∈ (0.13, 0.20), H is the net hip circumference;
所述男裤模式数学模型为:Described men's trousers mode mathematical model is:
后中线倾角α'与裆臀动态系数K'的数学模型α'=187/4–425K'/2,The mathematical model of rear midline inclination α' and crotch-hip dynamic coefficient K' α'=187/4–425K'/2,
下裆倾角β'与裆臀动态系数K'的数学模型β'=385/2–875K',Mathematical model of crotch inclination β' and crotch-hip dynamic coefficient K' β'=385/2–875K',
后翘量h'与裆臀动态系数K'的数学模型h'=5H'/23–(25K'H')/23,The mathematical model of back warping h' and crotch-hip dynamic coefficient K' h'=5H'/23–(25K'H')/23,
其中,K'∈(0.15,0.22),H'为净臀围值。Among them, K'∈(0.15, 0.22), H' is the net hip circumference.
所述键盘模块包括男裤模式按钮、女裤模式按钮、计算模式按钮、数字输入按钮、取消按钮和确认按钮。The keyboard module includes a men's trousers mode button, a women's trousers mode button, a calculation mode button, a number input button, a cancel button and a confirmation button.
本发明公开的一种裤装板型结构参数计算方法,包括以下步骤:A method for calculating structural parameters of trousers panels disclosed by the present invention comprises the following steps:
(1)以总裆宽为基础,分别建立后中线倾角与裆臀动态系数的数学模型,下裆倾角与裆臀动态系数的数学模型,后翘量与裆臀动态系数的数学模型;(1) Based on the total crotch width, establish the mathematical models of the rear midline inclination angle and the dynamic coefficient of the crotch buttocks, the mathematical models of the inclination angle of the crotch and the dynamic coefficient of the crotch buttocks, and the mathematical models of the rear warp and the dynamic coefficient of the crotch buttocks;
(2)根据需要选择男裤模式或女裤模式下的数学模型;(2) Select the mathematical model in men's trousers mode or women's trousers mode according to needs;
(3)根据裤装造型特点,选择对应的裆臀动态系数;(3) According to the shape characteristics of the trousers, select the corresponding dynamic coefficient of the crotch and buttocks;
(4)确定净臀围值;(4) Determine net hip circumference;
(5)将净臀围值和裆臀动态系数带入所述数学模型中,计算出与人的体型特点和造型要求相配伍的总裆宽、后中线倾角、后翘量以及下裆倾角等结构参数值。(5) Bring the net hip circumference and crotch-buttock dynamic coefficient into the mathematical model, and calculate the total crotch width, rear midline inclination, rear warp and inseam inclination that are compatible with the body shape characteristics and shape requirements Structure parameter values.
进一步的,建立女裤模式的后中线倾角α与裆臀动态系数K的数学模型的步骤为:Further, the steps of establishing the mathematical model of the rear midline inclination angle α and the dynamic coefficient K of the crotch buttocks of the women's trousers mode are as follows:
a1、建立以总裆宽x=KH为横坐标,后中线倾角α为纵坐标的坐标系,其中,K为裆臀动态系数,H为净臀围值;a1, establish a coordinate system with the total crotch width x=KH as the abscissa, and the rear midline inclination α as the ordinate, wherein K is the dynamic coefficient of the crotch buttocks, and H is the net hip circumference value;
a2、根据标准合体女裤结构的总裆宽x是人体净臀围的臀沟处厚度,确定此时的裆臀动态系数K=0.16,则总裆宽为x=K·H=0.16H,此造型的后中线倾角α=8°,则标准合体女裤结构的坐标点为P(0.16H,8);a2. According to the total crotch width x of the standard fit women's trousers structure, it is the thickness of the gluteal groove of the net hip circumference of the human body. If the dynamic coefficient of the crotch buttocks at this time is determined to be K=0.16, the total crotch width is x=K·H=0.16H, The rear midline inclination angle of this shape is α=8°, then the coordinate point of the standard fit trousers structure is P(0.16H, 8);
a3、根据标准合体女裙裤的总裆宽为人体净臀围处厚度,确定此时裆臀动态系数K=0.2,此时的总裆宽为女裤裆宽的最大值,总裆宽x=K·H=0.2H,此造型的后中线倾角α=0°,则标准合体女裙裤的坐标点为Q(0.2H,0);a3. According to the total crotch width of the standard fit women's culottes is the thickness of the net hips of the human body, it is determined that the dynamic coefficient of the crotch and hips at this time is K=0.2, and the total crotch width at this time is the maximum value of the women's crotch width, and the total crotch width x= K·H=0.2H, the inclination angle of the back centerline of this shape is α=0°, then the coordinate point of the standard fit skirt pants is Q(0.2H, 0);
a4、根据所确定的P、Q两点得出后中线倾角α与裆臀动态系数K的数学模型α=40-200K;a4. According to the determined P and Q points, the mathematical model of rear midline inclination α and crotch-buttock dynamic coefficient K is obtained α=40-200K;
a5、根据我国标准女体臀凸特点,确定窄裆裤后中线倾角的最大值为14°,此时对应的总裆宽为女裤裆宽的最小值;a5. According to the characteristics of the buttocks of the standard female body in my country, the maximum value of the inclination angle of the rear midline of the narrow crotch pants is determined to be 14°, and the corresponding total crotch width at this time is the minimum value of the female crotch width;
a6、用作图法得到直线PQ与直线α=14°的交点T(0.13H,14),得出总裆宽x=0.13H,此时K=0.13;a6. Use the graph method to obtain the intersection point T (0.13H, 14) of the straight line PQ and the straight line α=14°, and obtain the total crotch width x=0.13H, at this time K=0.13;
a7、根据步骤a3和a6中的K值,得出裆臀动态系数K的取值范围:K∈(0.13,0.20)。a7. According to the K value in steps a3 and a6, the value range of the crotch-hip dynamic coefficient K is obtained: K∈(0.13, 0.20).
进一步的,建立女裤模式的后下裆倾角β与裆臀动态系数K的数学模型的步骤为:Further, the steps of establishing the mathematical model of the inclination angle β of the rear inseam and the dynamic coefficient K of the crotch buttocks of the women's trousers mode are as follows:
b1、建立以总裆宽x=KH为横坐标,下裆倾角β为纵坐标的坐标系,其中,K为裆臀动态系数,H为净臀围值;b1, establish a coordinate system with the total crotch width x=KH as the abscissa, and the inclination angle β of the crotch as the ordinate, wherein K is the dynamic coefficient of the crotch buttocks, and H is the net hip circumference value;
b2、根据标准合体女裤结构的总裆宽是人体净臀围的臀沟处厚度,确定此时的裆臀动态系数K=0.16,则总裆宽为x=K·H=0.16H,此造型的下裆倾角β=38°,则标准合体女裤结构的坐标点为E(0.16H,38);b2. According to the total crotch width of the standard fit women's trousers structure is the thickness of the gluteal groove of the net hip circumference of the human body. If the dynamic coefficient of the crotch and hip at this time is determined to be K=0.16, then the total crotch width is x=K·H=0.16H, here The crotch inclination angle of the shape is β=38°, then the coordinate point of the standard fit trousers structure is E(0.16H, 38);
b3、根据标准合体女裙裤的总裆宽为人体净臀围处厚度,确定此时裆臀动态系数K=0.2,此时的总裆宽为女裤裆宽的最大值,总裆宽x=K·H=0.2H,此造型的下裆倾角β=0°,则标准合体女裙裤的坐标点为F(0.2H,0);b3. According to the total crotch width of the standard fit women's culottes is the thickness of the net hip circumference of the human body, it is determined that the dynamic coefficient of the crotch and hip at this time is K=0.2, and the total crotch width at this time is the maximum value of the women's crotch width, and the total crotch width x= K·H=0.2H, the inclination angle of the inseam of this shape β=0°, then the coordinate point of the standard fit culottes is F(0.2H, 0);
b4、根据所确定的E、F两点得出下裆倾角β与裆臀动态系数K的数学模型β=190-950K;b4, draw the mathematical model β=190-950K of the inclination angle β of the crotch and the dynamic coefficient K of the crotch buttocks according to the determined E and F two points;
b5、根据我国标准女体臀凸特点,当窄裆裤后中线倾角的最大值为14°时对应的总裆宽为女裤裆宽的最小值,此时总裆宽K=0.13H;b5. According to the characteristics of the buttocks of the standard female body in my country, when the maximum inclination angle of the rear midline of narrow crotch pants is 14°, the corresponding total crotch width is the minimum value of the female crotch width. At this time, the total crotch width K=0.13H;
b6、根据步骤b3和b5中的K值,得出裆臀动态系数K的取值范围:其中K∈(0.13,0.2)。b6. According to the K value in steps b3 and b5, the value range of the crotch-hip dynamic coefficient K is obtained: wherein K∈(0.13, 0.2).
进一步的,建立女裤模式的后后翘量h与裆臀动态系数K的数学模型的步骤为:Further, the steps of establishing the mathematical model of the rear warping amount h and the crotch buttock dynamic coefficient K of the women's trousers mode are as follows:
c1、建立以总裆宽x=KH为横坐标,后翘量h为纵坐标的坐标系,其中,K为裆臀动态系数,H为净臀围值;c1, establish the coordinate system with the total crotch width x=KH as the abscissa, and the amount of back warping h as the ordinate, wherein K is the dynamic coefficient of the crotch buttocks, and H is the net hip circumference value;
c2、根据标准合体女裤结构的裆臀动态系数K=0.16,即总裆宽x=K·H=0.16H,对应此造型时的后翘量h=H/48,则标准合体女裤的坐标点为M(0.16H,H/48);c2. According to the dynamic coefficient of the crotch and hip of the standard fit women's trousers structure K=0.16, that is, the total crotch width x=K·H=0.16H, corresponding to the back warp h=H/48 of this shape, then the standard fit women's trousers The coordinate point is M(0.16H, H/48);
c3、标准合体裙裤结构的裆臀动态系数K=0.2,即总裆宽x=K·H=0.2H,对应此造型的后翘量h=-H/48,则合体裙裤的坐标点为N(0.2H,-H/48);c3. The crotch-hip dynamic coefficient K=0.2 of the standard fit skirt pants structure, that is, the total crotch width x=K·H=0.2H, corresponding to the back warping amount h=-H/48 of this shape, then the coordinate points of the fit skirt pants is N(0.2H, -H/48);
c4、根据所确定的M、N两点得出后翘量h与裆臀动态系数K的数学模型h=3H/16–25KH/24;c4. According to the determined M and N points, the mathematical model h=3H/16–25KH/24 is obtained for the back warp amount h and the dynamic coefficient K of the crotch buttocks;
c5、根据我国标准女体臀凸特点,当窄裆裤后中线倾角的最大值为14°时对应的总裆宽为女裤裆宽的最小值,此时总裆宽最小值为0.13H;c5. According to the characteristics of the buttocks of the standard female body in my country, when the maximum inclination angle of the rear midline of the narrow crotch pants is 14°, the corresponding total crotch width is the minimum value of the female crotch width. At this time, the minimum value of the total crotch width is 0.13H;
c6、根据步骤c3和c5中的K值,得出裆臀动态系数K的取值范围:其中K∈(0.13,0.2)。c6. According to the K value in steps c3 and c5, the value range of the crotch-hip dynamic coefficient K is obtained: wherein K∈(0.13, 0.2).
进一步的,建立男裤模式的后中线倾角α'与裆臀动态系数K'的数学模型的步骤为:Further, the steps to establish the mathematical model of the rear midline inclination angle α' and the crotch-buttock dynamic coefficient K' of the men's trousers model are as follows:
A1、建立以总裆宽x'=K'H'为横坐标,后中线倾角α'为纵坐标的坐标系,其中,K'为裆臀动态系数,H'为净臀围值;A1. Establish a coordinate system with the total crotch width x'=K'H' as the abscissa and the rear midline inclination α' as the ordinate, where K' is the dynamic coefficient of the crotch buttocks, and H' is the net hip circumference;
A2、根据标准合体男裤结构的总裆宽x'是人体净臀围的臀沟处厚度,确定此时的裆臀动态系数K'=0.18,则总裆宽为x'=K'·H'=0.18H',此造型的后中线倾角α'=8.5°,则标准合体男裤结构的坐标点为P'(0.18H',8.5);A2. According to the total crotch width x' of the standard fit men's trousers structure, it is the thickness of the gluteal groove of the net hip circumference of the human body. If the dynamic coefficient of the crotch and hip at this time is K'=0.18, the total crotch width is x'=K'·H '=0.18H', the inclination angle of the back center line of this shape is α'=8.5°, then the coordinate point of the standard fit men's trousers structure is P'(0.18H', 8.5);
A3、根据合体男裙裤的总裆宽为人体净臀围处厚度,确定此时裆臀动态系数K'=0.22,此时的总裆宽为男裤裆宽的最大值,总裆宽x'=K'·H'=0.22H',此造型的后中线倾角α'=0°,则合体男裙裤的坐标点为Q'(0.22H',0);A3. According to the total crotch width of the fit men's culottes is the thickness of the net hip circumference of the human body, it is determined that the dynamic coefficient of the crotch and hip at this time is K'=0.22. The total crotch width at this time is the maximum value of the male crotch width, and the total crotch width is x' =K'·H'=0.22H', the inclination angle of the rear midline of this shape is α'=0°, then the coordinate point of the fit men's culottes is Q'(0.22H', 0);
A4、根据所确定的P'、Q'两点得出后中线倾角α'与裆臀动态系数K'的数学模型α'=187/4-425K'/2;A4. Based on the determined P' and Q' points, the mathematical model of rear midline inclination α' and crotch-hip dynamic coefficient K' is obtained α'=187/4-425K'/2;
A5、根据我国标准男体臀凸特点,确定窄裆裤后中线倾角的最大值为15°,此时对应的总裆宽为男裤裆宽的最小值;A5. According to the characteristics of the buttocks of the male body in our country, the maximum value of the inclination angle of the rear midline of the narrow crotch pants is determined to be 15°, and the corresponding total crotch width at this time is the minimum value of the male crotch width;
A6、用作图法得到直线P'Q'与直线α'=15°的交点T'(0.15H,15),得出总裆宽x'=0.15H',此时K'=0.15;A6. Obtain the intersection point T'(0.15H, 15) of the straight line P'Q' and the straight line α'=15° by the graphic method, and obtain the total crotch width x'=0.15H', at this time K'=0.15;
A7、根据步骤A3和A6中的K值,得出裆臀动态系数K'的取值范围:K'∈(0.15,0.22)。A7. According to the K value in steps A3 and A6, the value range of the crotch-hip dynamic coefficient K' is obtained: K'∈(0.15, 0.22).
进一步的,建立男裤模式的后下裆倾角β'与裆臀动态系数K'的数学模型的步骤为:Further, the steps to establish the mathematical model of the inclination angle β' of the rear inseam and the dynamic coefficient K' of the crotch buttocks of the men's trousers model are as follows:
B1、建立以总裆宽x'=K'H'为横坐标,下裆倾角β'为纵坐标的坐标系,其中,K'为裆臀动态系数,H'为净臀围值;B1, establish a coordinate system with the total crotch width x'=K'H' as the abscissa, and the crotch inclination β' as the ordinate, wherein K' is the dynamic coefficient of the crotch buttocks, and H' is the net hip circumference value;
B2、根据标准合体男裤结构的总裆宽是人体净臀围的臀沟处厚度,确定此时的裆臀动态系数K'=0.18,则总裆宽为x'=K'·H'=0.18H',此造型的下裆倾角β'=35°,则标准合体男裤结构的坐标点为E'(0.18H',35);B2. According to the standard fit men’s trousers, the total crotch width is the thickness of the gluteal groove of the net hip circumference of the human body. If the dynamic coefficient of the crotch and hip at this time is K’=0.18, the total crotch width is x’=K’·H’= 0.18H', the crotch inclination angle of this shape β'=35°, then the coordinate point of the standard fit men's trousers structure is E'(0.18H', 35);
B3、根据标准合体男裙裤的总裆宽为人体净臀围处厚度,确定此时裆臀动态系数K'=0.22,此时的总裆宽为男裤裆宽的最大值,总裆宽x'=K'·H'=0.22H',此造型的下裆倾角β'=0°,则标准合体男裙裤的坐标点为F'(0.22H',0);B3. According to the total crotch width of the standard-fit men’s culottes is the thickness of the net hip circumference of the human body, it is determined that the dynamic coefficient of the crotch and hip at this time is K’=0.22, and the total crotch width at this time is the maximum value of the male crotch width, and the total crotch width x '=K'·H'=0.22H', the inclination angle of the crotch of this shape β'=0°, then the coordinate point of the standard fit men's skirt pants is F'(0.22H', 0);
B4、根据所确定的E'、F'两点得出下裆倾角β'与裆臀动态系数K'的数学模型β'=385/2-875K';B4. According to the determined E' and F', the mathematical model of the crotch angle β' and the crotch-buttock dynamic coefficient K' is obtained β'=385/2-875K';
B5、根据我国标准男体臀凸特点,当窄裆裤后中线倾角的最大值为15°时对应的总裆宽为男裤裆宽的最小值,此时总裆宽K'=0.15H';B5. According to the characteristics of the buttocks of the standard male body in my country, when the maximum inclination angle of the rear midline of narrow crotch pants is 15°, the corresponding total crotch width is the minimum value of the male crotch width. At this time, the total crotch width K'=0.15H';
B6、根据步骤B3和B5中的K'值,得出裆臀动态系数K'的取值范围:其中K'∈(0.15,0.22)。B6. According to the value of K' in steps B3 and B5, the value range of the dynamic coefficient K' of the crotch and buttocks is obtained: where K'∈(0.15, 0.22).
进一步的,建立男裤模式的后后翘量h'与裆臀动态系数K'的数学模型的步骤为:Further, the steps to establish the mathematical model of the back warp h' and the dynamic coefficient K' of the crotch and buttocks of the men's trousers model are as follows:
C1、建立以总裆宽x'=K'H'为横坐标,后翘量h'为纵坐标的坐标系,其中,K'为裆臀动态系数,H'为净臀围值;C1, establish a coordinate system with the total crotch width x'=K'H' as the abscissa, and the back warp h' as the ordinate, wherein K' is the dynamic coefficient of the crotch buttocks, and H' is the net hip circumference value;
C2、根据标准合体男裤结构的裆臀动态系数K'=0.18,即总裆宽x'=K'·H'=0.18H',对应此造型时的后翘量h'=H'/46,则标准合体男裤的坐标点为M'(0.18H',H'/46);C2. According to the standard-fit men’s trousers structure, the crotch-hip dynamic coefficient K’=0.18, that is, the total crotch width x’=K’·H’=0.18H’, corresponding to the back warping amount h’=H’/46 of this shape , the coordinate point of the standard fit men's trousers is M'(0.18H', H'/46);
C3、标准合体男裙裤结构的裆臀动态系数K'=0.22,即总裆宽x'=K'·H'=0.22H',对应此造型的后翘量h'=-H'/46,则标准合体男裙裤的坐标点为N'(0.22H',-H'/46);C3. The crotch-hip dynamic coefficient K'=0.22 of the standard-fit men's culottes structure, that is, the total crotch width x'=K'·H'=0.22H', corresponding to the back warping amount of this shape h'=-H'/46 , the coordinate point of the standard fit men's culottes is N'(0.22H', -H'/46);
C4、根据所确定的M'、N'两点得出后翘量h'与裆臀动态系数K'的数学模型h'=5H'/23–25K'H'/23;C4. According to the determined M' and N' points, the mathematical model h'=5H'/23-25K'H'/23 is obtained for the back warp amount h' and the dynamic coefficient K' of the crotch buttock;
C5、根据我国标准男体臀凸特点,当窄裆裤后中线倾角的最大值为15°时对应的总裆宽为男裤裆宽的最小值,此时总裆宽最小值为0.15H';C5. According to the characteristics of the buttocks of the standard male body in my country, when the maximum inclination angle of the rear midline of narrow crotch pants is 15°, the corresponding total crotch width is the minimum value of the male crotch width. At this time, the minimum value of the total crotch width is 0.15H';
C6、根据步骤C3和C5中的K'值,得出裆臀动态系数K'的取值范围:其中K'∈(0.15,0.22)。C6. According to the value of K' in steps C3 and C5, the value range of the crotch-hip dynamic coefficient K' is obtained: where K'∈(0.15, 0.22).
本发明的有益效果是:通过建立后中线倾角与裆臀动态系数的数学模型,下裆倾角与裆臀动态系数的数学模型以及后翘量与裆臀动态系数的数学模型,在确定总裆宽、后中线倾角、后翘量以及下裆倾角等结构参数值时只需将净臀围值和裆臀动态系数带入数学模型后即可计算出与人体型特点和造型要求相配伍的总裆宽、后中线倾角、后翘量以及下裆倾角等结构参数值,使裤装制作时参数的确定有规律可循,杜绝因按照经验确定参数取值而导致裤装各结构参数取值不配伍。同时,通过参数计算装置使参数的确定更加准确、方便、快捷,节省了大量裤装板型设计的制作过程。The beneficial effect of the present invention is: by setting up the mathematical model of rear midline inclination angle and dynamic coefficient of crotch buttocks, the mathematical model of inclination angle of crotch and dynamic coefficient of crotch buttocks and the mathematical model of back warping amount and dynamic coefficient of crotch buttocks, in determining the total crotch width , rear midline inclination, rear warp, and crotch inclination and other structural parameters, you only need to bring the net hip circumference and crotch-buttock dynamic coefficient into the mathematical model to calculate the total crotch that matches the body shape characteristics and shape requirements Structural parameter values such as width, back midline inclination, back warp, and crotch inclination make the determination of parameters in trousers production regular and followable, and prevent the incompatibility of various structural parameters of trousers due to the determination of parameter values based on experience . At the same time, the determination of the parameters is more accurate, convenient and fast through the parameter calculation device, which saves a lot of manufacturing process of trousers pattern design.
附图说明Description of drawings
下面结合附图和实施例对本发明做进一步的说明:Below in conjunction with accompanying drawing and embodiment the present invention will be further described:
图1为本发明的参数计算装置示意图;Fig. 1 is a schematic diagram of a parameter calculation device of the present invention;
图2为本发明的参数计算装置计算流程图;Fig. 2 is the calculation flowchart of the parameter calculation device of the present invention;
图3本发明的合体女裤总裆宽x、后中线倾角α、下裆倾角β和后翘量h示意图;Fig. 3 is a schematic diagram of the total crotch width x, the rear midline inclination angle α, the crotch inclination angle β and the rear warp amount h of the fitted women's trousers of the present invention;
图4为本发明的合体女裙裤总裆宽x、后中线倾角α、下裆倾角β和后翘量h示意图;Fig. 4 is a schematic diagram of the total crotch width x, the rear midline inclination angle α, the crotch inclination angle β and the rear warping amount h of the fitted women's skirt pants of the present invention;
图5为本发明的为本发明的女裤后中线倾角α随总裆宽x变化规律图;Fig. 5 is the regular diagram of the change law of the centerline inclination angle α of the women's trousers of the present invention along with the total crotch width x of the present invention;
图6为本发明的女裤下裆倾角随总裆宽x变化规律;Fig. 6 is the change law of the inclination angle of the crotch of the women's trousers with the total crotch width x of the present invention;
图7为本发明的女裤后翘量随总裆宽x变化规律;Fig. 7 is the change law of the amount of back warping of women's trousers according to the total crotch width x of the present invention;
图8本发明的合体男裤总裆宽x'、后中线倾角α'、下裆倾角β'和后翘量h'示意图;Fig. 8 is a schematic diagram of the overall crotch width x', rear midline inclination angle α', crotch inclination angle β', and back warping amount h' of the fitted men's trousers of the present invention;
图9为本发明的合体男裙裤总裆宽x'、后中线倾角α'、下裆倾角β'和后翘量h'示意图;Fig. 9 is a schematic diagram of the total crotch width x', rear midline inclination angle α', crotch inclination angle β' and back warping amount h' of the fitted men's skirt trousers of the present invention;
图10为本发明的男裤后中线倾角随总裆宽x'变化规律;Fig. 10 shows the change law of the inclination angle of the rear midline of men's trousers according to the total crotch width x' of the present invention;
图11为本发明的男裤下裆倾角随总裆宽x'变化规律;Fig. 11 shows the change rule of crotch inclination angle with total crotch width x' of men's trousers of the present invention;
图12为本发明的男裤后翘量随总裆宽x'变化规律。Fig. 12 shows the changing rule of the men's trousers warp according to the total crotch width x' of the present invention.
具体实施方式detailed description
下面结合具体实施例对本发明做进一步的说明。The present invention will be further described below in conjunction with specific embodiments.
如图1所示,本发明一种裤装板型结构参数计算装置的具体实施例包括:As shown in Fig. 1, the specific embodiment of a kind of trousers plate structure parameter computing device of the present invention comprises:
计算处理模块,根据设定程序调用裤装板型数学模型,计算出与人的体型特点和造型要求相配伍的总裆宽、后中线倾角、后翘量以及下裆倾角等结构参数值。The calculation processing module invokes the trousers panel shape mathematical model according to the set program, and calculates the structural parameter values such as total crotch width, rear midline inclination angle, back warp amount, and inseam inclination angle that are compatible with human body shape characteristics and shape requirements.
键盘模块,用于选择男裤模式和女裤模式,以及输入净臀围值和裆臀动态系数;The keyboard module is used to select men's trousers mode and women's trousers mode, and input net hip circumference value and crotch-hip dynamic coefficient;
显示屏4,用于显示键盘的输入信息和计算处理模块的输出信息;The display screen 4 is used to display the input information of the keyboard and the output information of the calculation processing module;
电源模块,为计算处理模块和显示模块提供工作电源。The power supply module provides working power for the computing processing module and the display module.
进一步的,所述裤装板型数学模型包括男裤模式数学模型和女裤模式数学模型;Further, the trousers shape mathematical model includes a mathematical model of men's trousers mode and a mathematical model of women's trousers mode;
所述女裤模式数学模型为:Described women's trousers mode mathematical model is:
后中线倾角α与裆臀动态系数K的数学模型α=40-200K,The mathematical model of rear midline inclination α and crotch-hip dynamic coefficient K α=40-200K,
下裆倾角β与裆臀动态系数K的数学模型β=190-950K,The mathematical model of the inclination angle β of the inseam and the dynamic coefficient K of the crotch buttocks β=190-950K,
后翘量h与裆臀动态系数K的数学模型h=3H/16–25KH/24,The mathematical model of the amount of back warping h and the dynamic coefficient K of the crotch buttocks h=3H/16–25KH/24,
其中,K∈(0.13,0.20),H为净臀围值;Among them, K ∈ (0.13, 0.20), H is the net hip circumference;
所述男裤模式数学模型为:Described men's trousers mode mathematical model is:
后中线倾角α'与裆臀动态系数K'的数学模型α'=187/4–425K'/2;The mathematical model of rear midline inclination α' and crotch-hip dynamic coefficient K' α'=187/4–425K'/2;
下裆倾角β'与裆臀动态系数K'的数学模型β'=385/2–875K';Mathematical model of crotch inclination β' and crotch-hip dynamic coefficient K' β'=385/2–875K';
后翘量h'与裆臀动态系数K'的数学模型h'=5H'/23–(25K'H')/23;The mathematical model of back warping h' and crotch-hip dynamic coefficient K' h'=5H'/23–(25K'H')/23;
其中,K'∈(0.15,0.22),H'为净臀围值。Among them, K'∈(0.15, 0.22), H' is the net hip circumference.
所述键盘模块包括男裤模式按钮1、女裤模式按钮2、计算模式按钮3、数字输入按钮5、取消按钮6和确认按钮7。The keyboard module includes a men's trousers mode button 1 , a women's trousers mode button 2 , a calculation mode button 3 , a number input button 5 , a cancel button 6 and a confirmation button 7 .
如图2所示,本参数计算装置的计算流程为:系统根据所选择的男裤模式或女裤模式进入不同的计算模式,例如选择男裤模式,下一步提示输入裆臀系数K',在输入裆臀系数K'后,系统判断K'的范围,若K'∈(0.15,0.22),则进一步提示输入净臀围值H';若否,则提示输出K'值无效,重新提示输入裆臀系数K'。输入净臀围值H'后,系统将K'值和H'值带入α'=187/4–425K'/2,β'=385/2–875K',h'=5H'/23–25K'H'/23中进行计算,得出α'、β'和h'值后显示在显示屏4上。As shown in Figure 2, the calculation process of this parameter calculation device is: the system enters different calculation modes according to the selected men’s trousers mode or women’s trousers mode. After inputting the crotch and hip coefficient K', the system judges the range of K', if K'∈(0.15, 0.22), it will further prompt to input the net hip circumference value H'; Crotch-hip coefficient K'. After inputting the net hip circumference value H', the system will bring the K' value and H' value into α'=187/4–425K'/2, β'=385/2–875K', h'=5H'/23– 25K'H'/23 is calculated, and the values of α', β' and h' are obtained and displayed on the display screen 4 .
在使用该参数计算装置时,用户首先按下男裤模式按钮1或女裤模式按钮2,然后根据提示,将测量的净臀围值和选择的裆臀系数输入计算装置中,按确认按钮7,显示屏4上即显示计算结果,若用户输入错误,可按取消按钮6进行取消已输入的值。用户可根据该装置显示的数值进行裤装板型的下一步制作,节省了大量人工计算时间。When using the parameter calculation device, the user first presses the men's trousers mode button 1 or the women's trousers mode button 2, then according to the prompts, inputs the measured net hip circumference value and the selected crotch-buttocks coefficient into the calculation device, and presses the confirmation button 7 , The calculation result is displayed on the display screen 4. If the user makes a mistake, he can press the cancel button 6 to cancel the entered value. The user can make the next step of trousers pattern according to the value displayed by the device, which saves a lot of manual calculation time.
本发明的一种裤装板型结构参数计算方法的实施例如下:The embodiment of a kind of trousers panel structure parameter calculation method of the present invention is as follows:
实施例1,女裤模式:Embodiment 1, women's trousers mode:
1、建立女裤后中线倾角α随裆臀动态系数K变化的函数关系式1. Establish the functional relationship between the inclination angle α of the rear midline of women's trousers and the dynamic coefficient K of the crotch buttocks
如图5所示,建立以总裆宽x为横坐标,后中线倾角α为纵坐标的坐标系。从图3和图4中可见标准合体女裤与标准合体女裙裤的总裆宽与后中线倾角的示意图。根据服装人体工学基础上的女裤结构构成原理,标准合体女裤结构的总裆宽是人体净臀围时臀沟处的厚度,此时裆臀动态系数K=0.16,即总裆宽x=K·H=0.16H,对应此造型的后中线倾角α=8°,反映到图5的坐标系中,则标准合体女裤结构的坐标点为P(0.16H,8);标准合体女裙裤结构的总裆宽为人体臀围处厚度,是女裤裆宽的最大值,此时裆臀动态系数K=0.2,即总裆宽最大值x=K·H=0.2H,对应此造型的后中线倾角α=0°,反映到图5的坐标系中,则标准合体女裙裤的坐标点为Q(0.2H,0)。连接Q、P,则直线QP对应总裆宽在0.16H-0.2H之间的宽裆类女裤的总裆宽x与后中线倾角α的配伍区域,此类女裤K∈(0.16,0.20)。延长QP至T,T点为窄裆类裤的极限造型坐标点,其横坐标为总裆宽最小值,纵坐标为后中线倾角最大值。根据我国标准女体臀凸特点,当窄裆类裤的后中线倾角α>14°时,裤子造型会出现后中臀部以下凸起、臀部以上紧绷、横裆牵制前后中线对人体的服装压过大等违背人体结构的现象,因此后中线倾角最大值为14°,用作图法求得总裆宽的最小值为x=0.13H,此时K=0.13,则T点坐标为T(0.13H,14)。所以直线PT对应总裆宽在0.13H-0.16H之间的窄裆类女裤的总裆宽x与后中线倾角α的配伍区域,此类女裤K∈(0.13,0.16)。因此,就所有女裤造型而言,裆臀动态系数K∈(0.13,0.20)。由P、Q两点可得α=40-200x/H。因总裆宽x=KH,代入上式得女裤后中线倾角α随裆臀动态系数K变化的函数关系式为:α=40-200K,其中K∈(0.13,0.20)。As shown in Figure 5, establish a coordinate system with the total crotch width x as the abscissa and the rear midline inclination α as the ordinate. From Fig. 3 and Fig. 4, it can be seen the schematic diagram of the total crotch width and the rear midline inclination angle of the standard fit women's trousers and the standard fit women's skirt pants. According to the construction principle of women's trousers based on clothing ergonomics, the total crotch width of the standard fit women's trousers structure is the thickness of the gluteal groove when the human body has a clean hip circumference. K·H=0.16H, corresponding to the rear midline inclination angle α=8° of this shape, reflected in the coordinate system in Figure 5, the coordinate point of the standard fit women's trousers structure is P(0.16H, 8); the standard fit women's skirt The total crotch width of the trousers structure is the thickness of the hip circumference of the human body, which is the maximum value of the crotch width of women's trousers. At this time, the dynamic coefficient of the crotch and hip is K=0.2, that is, the maximum value of the total crotch width x=K·H=0.2H, corresponding to this shape The rear midline inclination angle α=0° is reflected in the coordinate system in Figure 5, and the coordinate point of the standard fit skirt pants is Q(0.2H, 0). Connecting Q and P, the straight line QP corresponds to the compatibility area between the total crotch width x and the rear midline inclination angle α of wide-crotch women's trousers with a total crotch width between 0.16H-0.2H, such women's trousers K∈(0.16, 0.20 ). Extending QP to T, point T is the limit shape coordinate point of narrow crotch pants, its abscissa is the minimum value of the total crotch width, and the ordinate is the maximum value of the inclination angle of the rear midline. According to the characteristics of the buttocks of the standard female body in my country, when the inclination angle α of the rear midline of narrow crotch pants is > 14°, the shape of the pants will appear convex below the middle buttocks, tight above the buttocks, and the front and rear midlines of the trousers will be pressed against the human body. Large and other violations of the phenomenon of human body structure, so the maximum value of the rear midline inclination is 14°, and the minimum value of the total crotch width obtained by using the graph method is x=0.13H. At this time, K=0.13, then the coordinate of the T point is T(0.13 H, 14). Therefore, the straight line PT corresponds to the compatibility area between the total crotch width x and the rear midline inclination angle α of narrow crotch women's pants with a total crotch width between 0.13H-0.16H, such women's pants K∈(0.13, 0.16). Therefore, for all women's trousers shapes, the dynamic coefficient of crotch buttocks K ∈ (0.13, 0.20). From the two points of P and Q, α=40-200x/H can be obtained. Because the total crotch width x=KH, substituting the above formula to get the function relationship of the inclination angle α of the rear midline of women's pants with the dynamic coefficient K of the crotch buttocks is: α=40-200K, where K∈(0.13, 0.20).
2、建立女裤下裆倾角β随裆臀动态系数K变化的函数关系式2. Establish the functional relational expression of the inclination angle β of the crotch of women's trousers changing with the dynamic coefficient K of the crotch buttocks
如图6所示,建立以总裆宽x为横坐标,下裆倾角β为纵坐标的坐标系。标准合体女裤结构的裆臀动态系数K=0.16,即总裆宽x=K·H=0.16H,对应此造型的下裆倾角β=38°,反映到图6的坐标系中,则标准合体女裤结构的坐标点为E(0.16H,38);标准合体女裙裤结构的裆臀动态系数K=0.2,即总裆宽x=K·H=0.2H,对应此造型的下裆倾角β=0°,反映到图6的坐标系中,则合体女裙裤的坐标点为F(0.2H,0)。连接F、E,则直线FE对应总裆宽在0.16H-0.2H之间的宽裆类女裤的总裆宽x与下裆倾角β的配伍区域,此类女裤K∈(0.16,0.20)。延长FE至G,G点表示窄裆类裤的极限造型坐标点,其横坐标为总裆宽最小值,纵坐标为下裆倾角最大值,而窄裆类裤后中线倾角最大值为14°时对应的总裆宽最小值为0.13H,此时K=0.13,用作图法求得G点坐标为G(0.13H,66.5°)。则直线E对应总裆宽在0.13H-0.16H之间的窄裆类女裤的总裆宽x与下裆倾角β的配伍区域,此类女裤K∈(0.13,0.16)。因此就所有造型的女裤结构而言,裆臀动态系数K∈(0.13,0.20)。根据E、F两点坐标值,得β=190-950x/H。因总裆宽x=KH,代入上式得女裤下裆倾角β随裆臀动态系数K变化的函数关系式为:β=190-950K,其中K∈(0.13,0.20)。As shown in Figure 6, establish a coordinate system with the total crotch width x as the abscissa and the crotch inclination β as the ordinate. The crotch-hip dynamic coefficient K=0.16 of the standard fit women’s trousers structure, that is, the total crotch width x=K·H=0.16H, corresponding to the crotch inclination angle β=38° of this shape, reflected in the coordinate system in Figure 6, the standard The coordinate point of the fit women's trousers structure is E(0.16H, 38); the crotch-buttock dynamic coefficient of the standard fit women's skirt pants structure is K=0.2, that is, the total crotch width x=K·H=0.2H, which corresponds to the inseam of this shape The inclination angle β=0° is reflected in the coordinate system of Fig. 6, then the coordinate point of the fitted culottes is F(0.2H, 0). Connecting F and E, the straight line FE corresponds to the compatibility area between the total crotch width x and the inclination angle β of wide-crotch women's trousers with a total crotch width between 0.16H-0.2H, such women's trousers K∈(0.16, 0.20 ). Extending FE to G, point G represents the extreme shape coordinate point of narrow crotch pants, its abscissa is the minimum value of the total crotch width, and the ordinate is the maximum inclination angle of the inseam, while the maximum inclination angle of the rear midline of narrow crotch pants is 14° The corresponding minimum value of the total crotch width is 0.13H, and K=0.13 at this time, and the coordinate of point G obtained by using the graphic method is G(0.13H, 66.5°). Then the straight line E corresponds to the compatibility area between the total crotch width x and the inclination angle β of narrow crotch women's trousers with a total crotch width between 0.13H-0.16H, such women's trousers K∈(0.13, 0.16). Therefore, in terms of the structure of women's trousers in all shapes, the dynamic coefficient of the crotch buttocks K ∈ (0.13, 0.20). According to the coordinate values of E and F, we get β=190-950x/H. Because the total crotch width x=KH, substituting into the above formula, the function relation of crotch inclination angle β of women's trousers changing with the dynamic coefficient K of crotch buttocks is: β=190-950K, where K∈(0.13, 0.20).
3、建立女裤后翘量h随裆臀动态系数K变化的函数关系式3. Establish the functional relational expression of the change of the back warp h of women's trousers with the dynamic coefficient K of the crotch buttocks
如图7,建立以总裆宽x为横坐标,后翘量h为纵坐标的坐标系。合体裤女裤结构的裆臀动态系数K=0.16,即总裆宽x=K·H=0.16H,对应此造型时的后翘量h=H/48,反映到图7的坐标系中,则标准合体女裤的坐标点为M(0.16H,H/48);标准合体女裙裤结构的裆臀动态系数K=0.2,即总裆宽x=K·H=0.2H,对应此造型的后翘量h=-H/48,反映到图7的坐标系中,则合体裙裤的坐标点为N(0.2H,-H/48)。连接N、M,则直线NM对应总裆宽在0.16H-0.2H之间的宽裆类女裤的总裆宽x与后翘量h的配伍区域,此类女裤K∈(0.16,0.20)。延长NM至U,U点表示窄裆类裤的极限造型坐标点,其横坐标为总裆宽最小值,纵坐标为后翘量最大值,而窄裆类裤后中线倾角最大值为14°时所对应的总裆宽最小值为0.13H,此时KU=0.13,用作图法求得U点坐标为U(0.13H,5H/96)。则直线MU对应总裆宽在0.13H-0.16H之间的窄裆类女裤的总裆宽x与后翘量h的配伍区域,此类女裤K∈(0.13,0.16)。因此就所有造型的女裤结构而言,裆臀动态系数K∈(0.13,0.20)。根据M、N两点坐标值,得h=3H/16-25x/24。因总裆宽x=KH,代入上式得女裤后翘量h随裆臀动态系数K变化的函数关系式为:h=3H/16–25KH/24,其中K∈(0.13,0.20)。As shown in Figure 7, establish a coordinate system with the total crotch width x as the abscissa and the back warp h as the ordinate. The crotch-hip dynamic coefficient K=0.16 of the fit trousers structure, that is, the total crotch width x=K·H=0.16H, corresponding to the back warp h=H/48 of this shape, reflected in the coordinate system in Figure 7, Then the coordinate point of the standard fit women's trousers is M (0.16H, H/48); the crotch buttock dynamic coefficient K=0.2 of the standard fit women's skirt pants structure, that is, the total crotch width x=K·H=0.2H, corresponding to this shape The back warping amount h=-H/48 is reflected in the coordinate system of Fig. 7, and then the coordinate point of the fit skirt pants is N(0.2H,-H/48). Connect N and M, then the straight line NM corresponds to the compatibility area between the total crotch width x and the back warp h of wide crotch women's trousers with a total crotch width between 0.16H-0.2H, such women's trousers K∈(0.16, 0.20 ). Extending NM to U, point U represents the extreme shape coordinate point of narrow crotch pants, its abscissa is the minimum value of the total crotch width, and the ordinate is the maximum value of rear warp, while the maximum rear midline inclination angle of narrow crotch pants is 14° The corresponding minimum value of the total crotch width is 0.13H. At this time, KU=0.13, and the coordinate of U point obtained by graph method is U(0.13H, 5H/96). Then the straight line MU corresponds to the compatibility area between the total crotch width x and the back warp h of narrow crotch women's trousers with a total crotch width between 0.13H-0.16H, such women's trousers K∈(0.13, 0.16). Therefore, in terms of the structure of women's trousers in all shapes, the dynamic coefficient of the crotch buttocks K ∈ (0.13, 0.20). According to the coordinate values of M and N points, h=3H/16-25x/24 is obtained. Since the total crotch width x=KH, substituting into the above formula, the functional relationship between the back warp h of women's trousers and the dynamic coefficient K of the crotch buttocks is: h=3H/16–25KH/24, where K∈(0.13, 0.20).
4、量取净臀围值H。4. Measure the net hip circumference H.
5、根据裤装造型特点,选择对应的裆臀动态系数K,K∈(0.13,0.20)。5. According to the shape characteristics of the trousers, select the corresponding dynamic coefficient K of the crotch and hip, K ∈ (0.13, 0.20).
6、将裆臀动态系数K带入α=40-200K和β=190-950K,得出后中线倾角α和下档倾角β,将净臀围值H和裆臀动态系数K带入h=3H/16–25KH/24中,得出后翘量h值。6. Bring the crotch-buttock dynamic coefficient K into α=40-200K and β=190-950K to obtain the rear midline inclination α and lower gear inclination β, and bring the net hip circumference value H and the crotch-buttock dynamic coefficient K into h= In 3H/16–25KH/24, the h value of back warpage is obtained.
7、如图3和图4所示,绘制后片的腰基准线a、臀围线b和横档线c,并依据前述所得的结构参数值,分别绘制总裆宽、后中线和后翘量。7. As shown in Figure 3 and Figure 4, draw the waist reference line a, hip circumference line b, and crossbar line c of the rear panel, and draw the total crotch width, rear center line, and rear warp respectively according to the structural parameter values obtained above quantity.
8、依据常规做法绘制省道线及裤管轮廓线等可以个性设计的结构线和轮廓线,对裤装板型进行完善。8. According to the conventional practice, draw dart lines and trouser leg contour lines and other structural lines and contour lines that can be individually designed to improve the trousers shape.
实施例2,男裤模式:Embodiment 2, men's trousers mode:
1、建立男裤后中线倾角α'随裆臀动态系数K'变化的函数关系式1. Establish the functional relational expression of the inclination angle α' of the rear midline of men's trousers with the dynamic coefficient K' of the crotch buttocks
如图10,建立以总裆宽为自变量x',后中线倾角为因变量α'的坐标系。图8和图9分别为标准合体男裤与标准合体男裙裤的总裆宽与后中线倾角的基本型结构。根据服装人体工程学基础上的男裤结构构成原理,标准合体男裤总裆宽为人体净臀围的臀沟处厚度,此时裆臀动态系数K'=0.18,即总裆宽x'=K'·H'=0.18H',对应此造型时的后中线倾角α'=8.5°,反映到图10的坐标系中,则标准合体男裤的坐标点为P'(0.18H',8.5);标准合体男裙裤总裆宽为人体臀围处厚度,是男裤类裆宽的最大值,此时的裆臀动态系数K'=0.22,即总裆宽x'=K'·H'=0.22H',对应此造型时后中线倾角α'=0°,反映到图10的坐标系中,则标准合体男裙裤的坐标点为Q'(0.22H',0)。连接Q'、P',则直线Q'P'对应总裆宽在0.18H'-0.22H'之间的宽裆类男裤的总裆宽x’与后中线倾角α'的配伍区域,此类男裤K'∈(0.18,0.22)。延长Q'P'至T',T'点为窄裆类裤的极限造型坐标点,其横坐标为总裆宽最小值,纵坐标为后中线倾角最大值。根据我国标准男体臀凸特点,窄裆类男裤的后中线倾角α'>15°时,裤子造型会出现后中臀部以下凸起、臀部以上紧绷、横裆牵制前后中线对人体的服装压过大等违背人体结构的现象,因此男裤后中线倾角最大值为15°,用作图法求得后中线倾角为15°时的窄裆类裤总裆宽的最小值为0.15H,此时K'=0.15,则T'点坐标为T'(0.15H',15)。所以直线P'T'对应总裆宽在0.15H'-0.18H'之间的窄裆类男裤的总裆宽x’与后中线倾角α'的配伍区域,此类男裤K'∈(0.15,0.18)。因此就所有造型的男裤结构而言,裆臀动态系数K'∈(0.15,0.22)。设男裤后中线倾角α'随总裆宽x’变化的函数关系为α'=a'x'+b',代入P'、Q'两点坐标值,得α'=187/4-425x'/2H'。因总裆宽x'=K'H',代入上式得男裤后中线倾角α'随裆臀动态系数K'变化的函数关系式为:α'=187/4–425K'/2,其中K'∈(0.15,0.22)。As shown in Figure 10, establish a coordinate system with the total crotch width as the independent variable x' and the rear midline inclination as the dependent variable α'. Figure 8 and Figure 9 are the basic structures of the total crotch width and rear midline inclination of standard fit men's trousers and standard fit men's culottes respectively. According to the structural composition principle of men's trousers based on clothing ergonomics, the total crotch width of standard fit men's trousers is the thickness of the gluteal groove of the net hip circumference of the human body. At this time, the dynamic coefficient of crotch and hip K'=0.18, that is, the total crotch width x'= K'·H'=0.18H', corresponding to the rear midline inclination angle α'=8.5° in this shape, reflected in the coordinate system in Figure 10, the coordinate point of the standard fit men's trousers is P'(0.18H', 8.5 ); the total crotch width of standard-fit men’s culottes is the thickness at the hip circumference of the human body, which is the maximum crotch width of men’s trousers. '=0.22H', corresponding to this shape, the rear midline inclination angle α'=0°, reflected in the coordinate system in Figure 10, the coordinate point of the standard fit men's culottes is Q'(0.22H', 0). Connecting Q' and P', the straight line Q'P' corresponds to the compatibility area between the total crotch width x' and the rear midline inclination angle α' of wide-crotch men's trousers with a total crotch width between 0.18H'-0.22H'. Class men's trousers K'∈(0.18, 0.22). Extend Q'P' to T', the T' point is the limit shape coordinate point of narrow crotch pants, its abscissa is the minimum value of the total crotch width, and the ordinate is the maximum value of the inclination angle of the rear midline. According to the characteristics of the buttocks of the standard male body in my country, when the inclination angle α' of the rear midline of men's trousers with narrow crotch is greater than 15°, the shape of the trousers will appear convex below the mid-middle buttocks, tight above the buttocks, and the front and rear midlines of the trousers are restrained by the horizontal crotch. Excessive pressure and other phenomena that violate the structure of the human body, so the maximum value of the rear midline inclination of men's trousers is 15°, and the minimum value of the total crotch width of narrow crotch pants when the rear midline inclination is 15° is obtained by the graph method is 0.15H. At this time K'=0.15, then the coordinate of point T' is T'(0.15H',15). Therefore, the straight line P'T' corresponds to the compatibility area between the total crotch width x' and the inclination angle α' of the narrow crotch men's trousers with a total crotch width between 0.15H'-0.18H', and this type of men's trousers K'∈( 0.15, 0.18). Therefore, as far as the structure of men's trousers is concerned, the dynamic coefficient of crotch buttocks K'∈(0.15, 0.22). Assuming that the inclination angle α' of the rear midline of men's trousers changes with the total crotch width x', the functional relationship is α'=a'x'+b', and substituting the coordinates of P' and Q', we get α'=187/4-425x '/2H'. Since the total crotch width x'=K'H', substituting into the above formula, the function relation of the inclination angle α' of the rear midline of men's trousers changing with the dynamic coefficient K' of the crotch hip is: α'=187/4–425K'/2, where K' ∈ (0.15, 0.22).
2、建立男裤下裆倾角β'随裆臀动态系数K'变化的函数关系式2. Establish the functional relationship between the inclination angle β' of the crotch of men's trousers and the dynamic coefficient K' of the crotch buttocks
如图11,建立以总裆宽为横坐标,下裆倾角β'为纵坐标的坐标系。标准合体裤男裤裆臀动态系数K'=0.18,即总裆宽x'=K'·H'=0.18H',对应此造型的下裆倾角β'=35°,反映到图11的坐标系中,则标准合体男裤的坐标点为E'(0.18H,35);标准合体男裙裤裆臀动态系数K'=0.18,即总裆宽x'=K'·H'=0.22H',对应此造型的下裆倾角β'=0°,反映到图11的坐标系中,则标准合体裙裤男裙裤坐标点为F'(0.22H',0)。连接F'、E',则直线F'E'对应总裆宽在0.18H'-0.22H'之间的宽裆类男裤的总裆宽x'与下裆倾角β'的配伍区域,此类男裤K'∈(0.16,0.20)。延长F'E'至G',G'点表示窄裆类裤的极限造型坐标点,其横坐标为总裆宽最小值,纵坐标为下裆倾角最大值,而窄裆类裤后中线倾角最大值为15°时对应的总裆宽最小值为0.15H',此时K'=0.15,用作图法求得G'点坐标为G'(0.15H',61.25)。则直线E'G'对应总裆宽在0.15H'-0.18H'之间的窄裆类男裤的总裆宽x'与下裆倾角β'的配伍区域,此类男裤K'∈(0.15,0.18)。因此就所有造型的男裤结构而言,裆臀动态系数K'∈(0.15,0.22)。由E'、F'两点坐标值,得β'=385/2-875x'/H'。因总裆宽x'=K'H',代入上式得男裤下裆倾角β'随裆臀动态系数K'变化的函数关系式为:β'=385/2–875K',其中K'∈(0.15,0.22)。As shown in Figure 11, establish a coordinate system with the total crotch width as the abscissa and the crotch inclination β' as the ordinate. The dynamic coefficient of crotch and buttocks of men’s standard-fit pants K’=0.18, that is, the total crotch width x’=K’·H’=0.18H’, corresponding to the inclination angle of the crotch of this shape β’=35°, which is reflected in the coordinate system in Figure 11 , the coordinate point of the standard fit men’s trousers is E’(0.18H, 35); the dynamic coefficient of the crotch buttocks of the standard fit men’s skirt K’=0.18, that is, the total crotch width x’=K’·H’=0.22H’, The crotch inclination angle β'=0° corresponding to this shape is reflected in the coordinate system in Figure 11, then the coordinate point of the standard fit men's skirt pants is F'(0.22H', 0). Connecting F' and E', the straight line F'E' corresponds to the compatibility area between the total crotch width x' and the inclination angle β' of wide-crotch men's trousers with a total crotch width between 0.18H'-0.22H'. Men's trousers K'∈(0.16, 0.20). Extend F'E' to G', point G' represents the extreme shape coordinate point of narrow crotch pants, its abscissa is the minimum value of the total crotch width, the ordinate is the maximum value of the inclination angle of the crotch, and the inclination angle of the rear midline of the narrow crotch pants When the maximum value is 15°, the corresponding minimum value of the total crotch width is 0.15H', at this time K'=0.15, and the coordinate of point G' obtained by using the graphic method is G'(0.15H', 61.25). Then the straight line E'G' corresponds to the compatibility area between the total crotch width x' and the inclination angle β' of narrow crotch men's trousers with a total crotch width between 0.15H'-0.18H', such men's trousers K'∈( 0.15, 0.18). Therefore, as far as the structure of men's trousers is concerned, the dynamic coefficient of crotch buttocks K'∈(0.15, 0.22). From the coordinates of E' and F', we get β'=385/2-875x'/H'. Since the total crotch width x'=K'H', substituting into the above formula, the function relation of the crotch inclination angle β' of men's trousers changing with the dynamic coefficient K' of the crotch buttocks is: β'=385/2–875K', where K' ∈(0.15, 0.22).
3、建立男裤后翘量h'随裆臀动态系数K'变化的函数关系式3. Establish the functional relational expression of the change of men's trousers back warpage h' with the dynamic coefficient K' of the crotch buttocks
如图12,建立以总裆宽为自变量x',后翘量H'为因变量的坐标系。标准合体男裤裆臀动态系数K'=0.18,即总裆宽x'=K'·H'=0.18H',对应此造型的后翘量h'=H'/46,反映到图12的坐标系中,则标准合体男裤的坐标点为M'(0.18H',H'/46);标准合体男裙裤裆臀动态系数K'=0.22,即总裆宽x'=K'·H'=0.22H',对应此造型时的后翘量h'=-H'/46,反映到图12的坐标系中,则标准合体男裙裤的坐标点为N'(0.22H',-H'/46)。连接N'、M',则直线NM对应总裆宽在0.18H'-0.22H'之间的宽裆类男裤的总裆宽x'与后翘量H'的配伍区域,此类男裤K'∈(0.18,0.22)。延长N'M'至U',U'点表示窄裆类裤极限造型坐标点,其横坐标为总裆宽的最小值,纵坐标为后翘量最大值,而窄裆类裤后中线倾角最大值为15°时所对应的总裆宽最小值为0.15H',此时K'=0.15,用作图法求得U'点坐标为U'(0.15H',5H'/92)。则直线N'U'对应总裆宽在0.15H'-0.18H'之间的窄裆类男裤的总裆宽x'与后翘量h'的配伍区域,此类男裤K'∈(0.15,0.18)。因此就所有造型的男裤结构而言,裆臀动态系数K'∈(0.15,0.18)。由M'、N'两点坐标值,得h'=5H'/23–25x'/23。因总裆宽x'=K'H',代入上式得男裤后翘量h'随裆臀动态系数K'变化的函数关系式为:h'=5H'/23–25K'H'/23,其中K'∈(0.15,0.22)。As shown in Figure 12, establish a coordinate system with the total crotch width as the independent variable x' and the back warp H' as the dependent variable. The dynamic coefficient of crotch and hip of standard fit male trousers is K'=0.18, that is, the total crotch width x'=K'·H'=0.18H', corresponding to the back warping amount of this shape h'=H'/46, which is reflected in the coordinates in Figure 12 In the system, the coordinate point of the standard fit men's trousers is M'(0.18H', H'/46); the dynamic coefficient of the crotch buttocks of the standard fit men's skirt K'=0.22, that is, the total crotch width x'=K'·H' =0.22H', corresponding to the back warping amount h'=-H'/46 of this shape, reflected in the coordinate system in Figure 12, the coordinate point of the standard fit men's skirt pants is N'(0.22H', -H '/46). Connecting N' and M', the straight line NM corresponds to the compatibility area between the total crotch width x' and the back warping amount H' of wide-crotch men's trousers with a total crotch width between 0.18H'-0.22H'. K' ∈ (0.18, 0.22). Extend N'M' to U', U' point represents the extreme shape coordinate point of narrow crotch pants, its abscissa is the minimum value of the total crotch width, the ordinate is the maximum value of the back warp, and the inclination angle of the back midline of narrow crotch pants When the maximum value is 15°, the corresponding minimum value of the total crotch width is 0.15H', at this time K'=0.15, and the coordinates of the U' point obtained by the graphic method are U'(0.15H', 5H'/92). Then the straight line N'U' corresponds to the compatibility area between the total crotch width x' and the back warp h' of narrow crotch men's trousers with a total crotch width between 0.15H'-0.18H', such men's trousers K'∈( 0.15, 0.18). Therefore, as far as the structure of men's trousers is concerned, the dynamic coefficient of crotch and hip is K'∈(0.15, 0.18). From the coordinates of M' and N', h'=5H'/23–25x'/23. Because the total crotch width x'=K'H', the functional relationship between the men's trousers' back warp h' and the dynamic coefficient K' of the crotch hip is substituted into the above formula: h'=5H'/23–25K'H'/ 23, where K' ∈ (0.15, 0.22).
4、量取净臀围值H'。4. Measure the net hip circumference H'.
5、根据裤装造型特点,选择对应的裆臀动态系数K',K'∈(0.15,0.22)。5. According to the shape characteristics of trousers, select the corresponding crotch-buttock dynamic coefficient K', K'∈(0.15, 0.22).
6、将裆臀动态系数K'带入α'=187/4-425K'/2和β'=385/2-875K',得出后中线倾角α'和下档倾角β',将净臀围值H'和裆臀动态系数K'带入h'=5H'/23–25K'H'/23中,得出后翘量h'值。6. Bring the crotch and buttock dynamic coefficient K' into α'=187/4-425K'/2 and β'=385/2-875K' to get the rear midline inclination α' and lower gear inclination β', and the net buttocks The circumference value H' and the dynamic coefficient K' of the crotch and hip are brought into h'=5H'/23-25K'H'/23 to obtain the value of the back warp h'.
7、如图8和图9所示,绘制后片的腰基准线a、臀围线b和横档线c,并依据前述所得的结构参数值,分别绘制总裆宽、后中线和后翘量。7. As shown in Figure 8 and Figure 9, draw the waist reference line a, hip circumference line b, and crossbar line c of the rear panel, and draw the total crotch width, rear center line, and rear warp respectively according to the structural parameter values obtained above quantity.
8、依据常规做法绘制省道线及裤管轮廓线等可以个性设计的结构线和轮廓线,对裤装板型进行完善。8. According to the conventional practice, draw dart lines and trouser leg contour lines and other structural lines and contour lines that can be individually designed to improve the trousers shape.
以上所述只是本发明优选实施方式,对于本技术领域的普通技术人员来说,在不脱离本发明原理的前提下,还可以做出若干改进和润饰,这些改进和润饰也被视为本发明的保护范围。The above is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention. For those of ordinary skill in the art, without departing from the principle of the present invention, some improvements and modifications can also be made, and these improvements and modifications are also considered as the present invention. scope of protection.
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