CN106902033A - A kind of scrub cosmetics and preparation method thereof - Google Patents
A kind of scrub cosmetics and preparation method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
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- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8105—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbons having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
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Abstract
本发明涉及化妆品技术领域,特别是涉及一种去角质霜化妆品及其制备方法,所述去角质霜包括以下组分:保湿剂、增稠剂、抗敏舒缓剂、PPG‑51/SMDI共聚物、磨砂颗粒、天然植物磨砂剂、植物提取精华、pH调节剂、乙醇、香精、防腐剂和去离子水。本发明所述的去角质霜,稳定性高,温和不刺激,且含有多种植物提取精华,具有柔和去除老化角质同时补充肌肤水分的功效。This invention relates to the field of cosmetic technology, and in particular to an exfoliating cream and its preparation method. The exfoliating cream comprises the following components: a moisturizer, a thickener, an anti-allergic soothing agent, a PPG-51/SMDI copolymer, exfoliating particles, a natural plant exfoliant, plant extracts, a pH adjuster, ethanol, fragrance, preservatives, and deionized water. The exfoliating cream of this invention is highly stable, gentle, and non-irritating, and contains various plant extracts, providing the effect of gently removing dead skin cells while replenishing skin moisture.
Description
技术领域technical field
本发明涉及化妆品技术领域,具体的说是涉及一种去角质霜化妆品及其制备方法。The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to an exfoliating cream cosmetic and a preparation method thereof.
背景技术Background technique
角质层是表皮最外层的部分,它由几层到几十层扁平无核的角化死亡细胞相互交叉、重叠构成。这些角质细胞是人体的第一道天然屏障,具有防紫外线,屏蔽外界有害物质,保护皮下组织,防止水分过多流失等作用。随着外界环境质量变差,以及人们不良的生活习惯和日益增大的工作压力,使得代谢速度减缓,角质细胞不能自然脱落,角质细胞在皮肤表面堆积越来越厚,导致皮肤粗糙、暗沉,甚至导致毛孔堵塞,产生更严重的肌肤问题。The stratum corneum is the outermost part of the epidermis, which is composed of several to dozens of layers of flat, non-nucleated keratinized dead cells that intersect and overlap each other. These keratinocytes are the first natural barrier of the human body. They have the functions of preventing ultraviolet rays, shielding external harmful substances, protecting subcutaneous tissue, and preventing excessive water loss. As the quality of the external environment deteriorates, as well as people's bad living habits and increasing work pressure, the metabolic rate slows down, the keratinocytes cannot fall off naturally, and the accumulation of keratinocytes on the skin surface becomes thicker and thicker, resulting in rough and dull skin , and even lead to clogged pores, resulting in more serious skin problems.
为使皮肤粗糙、缺水、硬皮的现象得到改善,利用去角质产品以按摩的方式把肌肤上老旧的皮层及皮质层内的不良细胞加速排出,促进新生细胞增长,清除不洁物和增加后续保养品的吸收。In order to improve rough skin, lack of water, and hard skin, use exfoliating products to accelerate the discharge of old cortex and bad cells in the cortex, promote the growth of new cells, and remove impurities and impurities. Increase the absorption of follow-up skin care products.
现在市面上去角质化妆品中,多数为传统的磨砂类或果酸类产品。磨砂类产品由于磨砂颗粒不够温和,易导致皮肤去角质过度,不适宜皮肤娇嫩、角质层薄的人群使用;果酸类产品酸性较大,使用刺激,不适用敏感肌肤者使用。另外,现有去角质霜化妆品稳定性不够好,易出现料体变糙的现象。Most of the exfoliating cosmetics on the market are traditional scrubs or fruit acid products. Scrub products are not suitable for people with delicate skin and thin stratum corneum because the scrub particles are not gentle enough, which can easily lead to excessive skin exfoliation. Fruit acid products are relatively acidic and irritating, so they are not suitable for people with sensitive skin. In addition, the stability of existing exfoliating cream cosmetics is not good enough, and the phenomenon that the material body becomes rough is prone to occur.
发明内容Contents of the invention
针对现有去角质霜化妆品存在的不足,本发明的目的是为了提供一种稳定性好的的去角质霜及其制备方法、达到无刺激、去角质明显的效果。Aiming at the deficiencies of existing exfoliating cream cosmetics, the purpose of the present invention is to provide a stable exfoliating cream and a preparation method thereof, which can achieve non-irritating and obvious exfoliating effects.
为实现上述目的,本发明提供的去角质霜制备方法,包括以下步骤:In order to achieve the above object, the exfoliating cream preparation method provided by the invention comprises the following steps:
(1)在反应釜中加入去离子水,在不搅拌下撒入Carbopol Ultrez 21,待Carbopol Ultrez 21完全润湿后,开启搅拌,在搅拌下加入丙二醇,分散均匀。(1) Add deionized water into the reaction kettle, and sprinkle Carbopol Ultrez 21 without stirring. After Carbopol Ultrez 21 is completely wetted, start stirring, add propylene glycol under stirring, and disperse evenly.
(2)将反应釜加热至80-85℃,加入舒缓抗敏剂,搅拌溶解均匀,保温30分钟后开冷却水降温至40-45℃。(2) Heat the reaction kettle to 80-85°C, add the soothing and antisensitizing agent, stir and dissolve evenly, keep warm for 30 minutes, and then turn on cooling water to cool down to 40-45°C.
(3)加入pH调节剂、PPG-51/SMDI共聚物、香精和乙醇,低速均质均匀。(3) Add pH adjuster, PPG-51/SMDI copolymer, essence and ethanol, homogenize at low speed.
(4)加入磨砂颗粒、天然植物磨砂剂、植物提取精华和防腐剂,搅拌均匀,即制得去角质霜。(4) Add scrub particles, natural plant scrubs, plant extracts and preservatives, and stir evenly to prepare the exfoliating cream.
其中,所述步骤(1)中,Carbopol Ultrez 21的质量百分比为0.3-0.7%,丙二醇的质量百分比为8-20%。Wherein, in the step (1), the mass percentage of Carbopol Ultrez 21 is 0.3-0.7%, and the mass percentage of propylene glycol is 8-20%.
其中,所述步骤(2)中,舒缓抗敏剂可选自甘草酸二钾、芦荟粉、尿囊素、生物糖胶-2中的至少一种,质量百分比为0.05-1%。Wherein, in the step (2), the soothing and antisensitizing agent can be selected from at least one of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, aloe vera powder, allantoin, and biological sugar gum-2, and the mass percentage is 0.05-1%.
其中,所述步骤(3)中,pH调节剂可选自氢氧化钠、氢氧化钾、三乙醇胺、精氨酸、氨甲基丙醇中的至少一种,添加量以调节体系pH至指定范围(6.0-7.5)为准。PPG-51/SMDI共聚物的质量百分比为3-6%。乙醇的质量百分比为8-20%。香精的质量百分比为0.1%。Wherein, in the step (3), the pH regulator can be selected from at least one of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, triethanolamine, arginine, and aminomethyl propanol, and the added amount is to adjust the pH of the system to a specified The range (6.0-7.5) shall prevail. The mass percentage of the PPG-51/SMDI copolymer is 3-6%. The mass percent of ethanol is 8-20%. The mass percentage of essence is 0.1%.
其中,所述步骤(4)中,磨砂颗粒可选自聚乙烯磨砂粒、聚氨酯类颗粒、硅石粒子中的至少一种,质量百分比为0.1-2%。天然植物磨砂剂可选自龙头竹叶/茎提取物植物微粒、杏仁颗粒、核桃颗粒、竹炭颗粒、丝瓜络磨砂中的至少一种,质量百分比为0.001-0.5%。植物提取精华可选自龙头竹提取物、莲花提取物、白睡莲根提取物、鲜竹沥中的至少一种,质量百分比为0.01-0.05%。防腐剂为DMDM乙内酰脲/水/丁二醇/碘丙炔醇丁基氨甲酸酯组合的Glydant PlusLiquid,质量百分比为0.5%。Wherein, in the step (4), the abrasive particles can be selected from at least one of polyethylene abrasive particles, polyurethane particles, and silica particles, and the mass percentage is 0.1-2%. The natural plant scrub agent can be selected from at least one of bamboo leaf/stem extract plant particles, almond granules, walnut granules, bamboo charcoal granules, and loofah scrub, and the mass percentage is 0.001-0.5%. The plant extract essence can be selected from at least one of dragon head bamboo extract, lotus flower extract, white water lily root extract and fresh bamboo leek, and the mass percentage is 0.01-0.05%. The preservative is Glydant Plus Liquid composed of DMDM hydantoin/water/butylene glycol/iodopropynyl butyl carbamate, the mass percentage is 0.5%.
本发明的去角质霜,相态结构稳定,pH值在6.0-7.5范围内,接近皮肤弱酸性环境,使用无刺激。添加的磨砂颗粒、PPG-51/SMDI共聚物以及天然植物磨砂剂的角质清洁组合,可有效清洁毛囊口的脂性分泌物,且温和带走老化角质。配以舒缓抗敏剂和多种植物提取精华,可降低对皮肤的刺激性,增强消炎抗敏、舒缓保湿功效,使肌肤水润,白嫩有光泽。The exfoliating cream of the invention has a stable phase structure, a pH value in the range of 6.0-7.5, close to the weakly acidic environment of the skin, and has no irritation when used. The keratin cleansing combination of added scrub particles, PPG-51/SMDI copolymer and natural plant scrub can effectively clean the oily secretions at the hair follicle opening, and gently remove the aged keratin. Formulated with soothing antisensitivity agents and a variety of plant extracts, it can reduce irritation to the skin, enhance anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic, soothing and moisturizing effects, and make the skin moist, white, tender and shiny.
具体实施方式detailed description
为更好解释本发明,下面结合具体实施例对本范明作进一步说明,但不局限于这些实施例。实施例中的“%”代表质量百分比。In order to better explain the present invention, below in conjunction with specific examples, the present invention will be further described, but not limited to these examples. "%" in the examples represents mass percentage.
实施例一Embodiment one
一种去角质霜,按重量百分比计,其原料组分及含量如表1所示:A kind of exfoliating cream, by weight percentage, its raw material component and content are as shown in table 1:
表1Table 1
该去角质霜通过如下步骤制备,各组分依据表1所示的质量百分比确定添加量:This exfoliating cream is prepared through the following steps, and the addition amount of each component is determined according to the mass percentage shown in Table 1:
(1)在反应釜中加入去离子水,在不搅拌下撒入Carbopol Ultrez 21,待Carbopol Ultrez 21完全润湿后,开启搅拌,在搅拌下加入丙二醇,分散均匀。(1) Add deionized water into the reaction kettle, and sprinkle Carbopol Ultrez 21 without stirring. After Carbopol Ultrez 21 is completely wetted, start stirring, add propylene glycol under stirring, and disperse evenly.
(2)将反应釜加热至80-85℃,加入甘草酸二钾和芦荟粉,搅拌溶解均匀,保温30分钟后开冷却水降温至40-45℃。(2) Heat the reaction kettle to 80-85°C, add dipotassium glycyrrhizinate and aloe vera powder, stir and dissolve evenly, keep warm for 30 minutes, turn on cooling water to cool down to 40-45°C.
(3)加入三乙醇胺、PPG-51/SMDI共聚物、香精和乙醇,低速均质均匀。(3) Add triethanolamine, PPG-51/SMDI copolymer, essence and ethanol, homogenize at low speed.
(4)加入聚乙烯磨砂粒、龙头竹叶/茎提取物植物微粒、鲜竹沥和GlydantPlus Liquid,搅拌均匀,即制得去角质霜。(4) Add polyethylene abrasive grains, plant particles of dragon head bamboo leaf/stem extract, fresh bamboo leek and GlydantPlus Liquid, and stir well to obtain an exfoliating cream.
实施例二Embodiment two
一种去角质霜,按重量百分比计,其原料组分及含量如表2所示:A kind of exfoliating cream, by weight percentage, its raw material component and content are as shown in table 2:
表2Table 2
该去角质霜通过如下步骤制备,各组分依据表2所示的质量百分比确定添加量:This exfoliating cream is prepared through the following steps, and each component determines the amount of addition according to the mass percentage shown in Table 2:
(1)在反应釜中加入去离子水,在不搅拌下撒入Carbopol Ultrez 21,待Carbopol Ultrez 21完全润湿后,开启搅拌,在搅拌下加入丙二醇,分散均匀。(1) Add deionized water into the reaction kettle, and sprinkle Carbopol Ultrez 21 without stirring. After Carbopol Ultrez 21 is completely wetted, start stirring, add propylene glycol under stirring, and disperse evenly.
(2)将反应釜加热至80-85℃,加入尿囊素和生物糖胶-2,搅拌溶解均匀,保温30分钟后开冷却水降温至40-45℃。(2) Heat the reaction kettle to 80-85°C, add allantoin and bio-glucose gum-2, stir and dissolve evenly, keep warm for 30 minutes, turn on cooling water to cool down to 40-45°C.
(3)加入三乙醇胺、PPG-51/SMDI共聚物、香精和乙醇,低速均质均匀。(3) Add triethanolamine, PPG-51/SMDI copolymer, essence and ethanol, homogenize at low speed.
(4)加入聚氨酯类颗粒、核桃颗粒、莲花提取物和Glydant Plus Liquid,搅拌均匀,即制得去角质霜。(4) Add polyurethane granules, walnut granules, lotus flower extract and Glydant Plus Liquid, and stir evenly to prepare the exfoliating cream.
实施例三Embodiment three
一种去角质霜,按重量百分比计,其原料组分及含量如表3所示:A kind of exfoliating cream, by weight percentage, its raw material component and content are as shown in table 3:
表3table 3
该去角质霜通过如下步骤制备,各组分依据表3所示的质量百分比确定添加量:This exfoliating cream is prepared through the following steps, and each component determines the amount of addition according to the mass percentage shown in Table 3:
(1)在反应釜中加入去离子水,在不搅拌下撒入Carbopol Ultrez 21,待Carbopol Ultrez 21完全润湿后,开启搅拌,在搅拌下加入丙二醇,分散均匀。(1) Add deionized water into the reaction kettle, and sprinkle Carbopol Ultrez 21 without stirring. After Carbopol Ultrez 21 is completely wetted, start stirring, add propylene glycol under stirring, and disperse evenly.
(2)将反应釜加热至80-85℃,加入甘草酸二钾、生物糖胶-2和芦荟粉,搅拌溶解均匀,保温30分钟后开冷却水降温至40-45℃。(2) Heat the reaction kettle to 80-85°C, add dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, bio-glucose gum-2 and aloe vera powder, stir and dissolve evenly, keep warm for 30 minutes, turn on cooling water to cool down to 40-45°C.
(3)加入三乙醇胺、PPG-51/SMDI共聚物、香精和乙醇,低速均质均匀。(3) Add triethanolamine, PPG-51/SMDI copolymer, essence and ethanol, homogenize at low speed.
(4)加入聚乙烯磨砂粒、杏仁壳颗粒、鲜竹沥、白睡莲根提取物和GlydantPlus Liquid,搅拌均匀,即制得去角质霜。(4) Add polyethylene scrub granules, almond shell granules, fresh bamboo leek, white water lily root extract and GlydantPlus Liquid, and stir evenly to obtain an exfoliating cream.
实施例四Embodiment Four
稳定性测试评估Stability Test Evaluation
对实施例三所述的去角质霜和市售产品A进行稳定性测试。Carry out stability test to exfoliating cream described in embodiment three and commercially available product A.
测试条件:Test Conditions:
耐寒:-20±1℃保持指定时间,恢复至室温后与5℃存放样品进行外观和气味比对,并测试pH值和粘度。Cold resistance: keep at -20±1°C for a specified time, compare the appearance and smell with the samples stored at 5°C after returning to room temperature, and test the pH value and viscosity.
光照:光照保持指定时间(光照强度不低于1.2×106Lux.hr),恢复至室温后与5℃存放样品进行外观和气味比对,并测试pH值和粘度。Illumination: keep the light for a specified time (the light intensity is not less than 1.2×106Lux.hr), return to room temperature and compare the appearance and smell with the samples stored at 5°C, and test the pH value and viscosity.
耐热:40±1℃保持指定时间,恢复至室温后与5℃存放样品进行外观和气味比对,并测试pH值和粘度。Heat resistance: keep at 40±1°C for a specified time, compare the appearance and smell with the samples stored at 5°C after returning to room temperature, and test the pH value and viscosity.
循环:循环温度,40±1℃和-20±1℃;循环周期,每周更换2次;循环测试保持指定时间,恢复至室温后与5℃存放样品进行外观和气味比对,并测试pH值和粘度。Cycle: cycle temperature, 40±1°C and -20±1°C; cycle cycle, replace twice a week; cycle test for a specified time, after returning to room temperature, compare the appearance and smell with the sample stored at 5°C, and test the pH value and viscosity.
测试结果如表4所示:The test results are shown in Table 4:
表4样品稳定性对比Table 4 Sample Stability Comparison
由表4可知,实施例三样品在三个月的测试时间内,各测试条件下外观,气味,pH值和粘度均表现稳定,配方稳定性高。而市售产品A在耐热,循环和光照条件下不稳定,具体表现在:一个月耐热的料体褪色,粘度降低;一个月循环的料体褪色;一个月光照料体褪色,有异味,且粘度明显增加;两个月和三个月耐热的料体褪色,粘度明显降低。因此,实施例三样品的稳定性比市售产品A好。From Table 4, it can be seen that the appearance, odor, pH value and viscosity of the sample of Example 3 are stable under various test conditions during the test period of three months, and the formulation stability is high. And commercially available product A is unstable under heat-resisting, circulation and light conditions, and is embodied in: the one-month heat-resistant material body fades, and viscosity reduces; The one-month circulating material body fades; And the viscosity increased significantly; the heat-resistant material body faded after two months and three months, and the viscosity decreased significantly. Therefore, the stability of the sample of Example 3 is better than that of the commercially available product A.
实施例五Embodiment five
去角质功效测试Exfoliation Efficacy Test
测试方法如下:受试者清洁手臂屈臂内侧面皮肤,等待20分钟,选取2个0.8×0.8cm2的正方形区域,取一定量的实施例三样品和市售产品A分别涂抹于上述区域内,用指腹进行揉搓、按摩一定时间,再用清水冲洗,休息半小时。通过测定涂抹样品前后的区域皮肤内经表皮失水率的改变值来表征样品的去角质效果。测试结果如表5所示:The test method is as follows: the subject cleans the skin on the inner side of the flexed arm of the arm, waits for 20 minutes, selects two square areas of 0.8×0.8cm 2 , and takes a certain amount of the sample of Example 3 and the commercially available product A to apply to the above-mentioned areas respectively , rub and massage with fingertips for a certain period of time, then rinse with water and rest for half an hour. The exfoliating effect of the sample was characterized by measuring the change value of the transepidermal water loss rate in the skin of the area before and after applying the sample. The test results are shown in Table 5:
表5经表皮失水率的改变值对比Table 5 Comparison of the change value of transepidermal water loss rate
由表5可知,使用实施例三样品的皮肤经表皮失水率改变值大于市售产品A,表明实施例三样品的去角质效果比市售产品A好。It can be seen from Table 5 that the change value of the skin transepidermal water loss rate using the sample of Example 3 is greater than that of the commercially available product A, indicating that the exfoliating effect of the sample of Example 3 is better than that of the commercially available product A.
实施例六Embodiment six
温和性测试mildness test
测试方法如下:受试者清洁两侧面部,擦干,等待20分钟,使面部干燥。取一定量10%乳酸分别放于滤纸圆片上,然后贴于受试者鼻翼两侧,并在0分钟、0.5分钟、2.5分钟、5分钟、10分钟对鼻翼两侧的刺痛感进行评分。The test method is as follows: the subject cleans both sides of the face, wipes dry, and waits for 20 minutes to dry the face. A certain amount of 10% lactic acid was put on filter paper discs, and then pasted on both sides of the nose of the subject, and the tingling sensation on both sides of the nose was scored at 0 minutes, 0.5 minutes, 2.5 minutes, 5 minutes, and 10 minutes.
清洁鼻翼两侧,等待半小时。取一定量实施例三样品和市售产品A,分别均匀涂于鼻翼两侧,停留30秒,并对刺痛感进行评分(0分钟);再对鼻翼两侧进行揉搓按摩半分钟,对刺痛感进行评分(0.5分钟);清洗去除产品,继续对洗后鼻翼两侧刺痛感进行评分。测试结果如表6所示:Clean the sides of the nose and wait for half an hour. Get a certain amount of Example 3 sample and commercially available product A, apply them evenly on both sides of the alar of the nose respectively, stay for 30 seconds, and score the tingling sensation (0 minutes); Score the pain (0.5 minutes); wash and remove the product, and continue to score the tingling sensation on both sides of the nose after washing. The test results are shown in Table 6:
表6去角质过程中刺激性分数的对比Table 6 Comparison of irritation scores during exfoliation
由表6可知,实施例三样品在去角质过程中对皮肤的刺激性分数比市售产品A低,说明实施例三样品的温和性高于市售产品A。It can be seen from Table 6 that the skin irritation score of the sample of Example 3 is lower than that of the commercially available product A during the exfoliation process, indicating that the mildness of the sample of Example 3 is higher than that of the commercially available product A.
以上所述仅是本发明的优选实施方式,应当指出,对于本技术领域的普通技术人员,在不脱离本发明构思的前提下,还可以做出若干改进和润饰,这些改进和润饰也应视为本发明的保护范围内。The above is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention, it should be pointed out that for those of ordinary skill in the art, without departing from the concept of the present invention, some improvements and modifications can also be made, and these improvements and modifications should also be considered Within the protection scope of the present invention.
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