CN1077184C - Fabric treatment - Google Patents
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- CN1077184C CN1077184C CN94192508A CN94192508A CN1077184C CN 1077184 C CN1077184 C CN 1077184C CN 94192508 A CN94192508 A CN 94192508A CN 94192508 A CN94192508 A CN 94192508A CN 1077184 C CN1077184 C CN 1077184C
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M13/10—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing oxygen
- D06M13/184—Carboxylic acids; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof
- D06M13/192—Polycarboxylic acids; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
- D01F—CHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
- D01F2/00—Monocomponent artificial filaments or the like of cellulose or cellulose derivatives; Manufacture thereof
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M13/322—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing nitrogen
- D06M13/402—Amides imides, sulfamic acids
- D06M13/425—Carbamic or thiocarbamic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. urethanes
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M13/322—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing nitrogen
- D06M13/402—Amides imides, sulfamic acids
- D06M13/432—Urea, thiourea or derivatives thereof, e.g. biurets; Urea-inclusion compounds; Dicyanamides; Carbodiimides; Guanidines, e.g. dicyandiamides
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
- D06M15/37—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D06M15/39—Aldehyde resins; Ketone resins; Polyacetals
- D06M15/423—Amino-aldehyde resins
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
- General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
- Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
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Abstract
Description
本发明的背景Background of the invention
1.发明领域1. Field of invention
本发明涉及减少由溶纺纤维素纤维制成的织物的原纤化程度及原纤化倾向的方法。The present invention relates to a method of reducing the degree of fibrillation and the tendency to fibrillate of fabrics made from lyocell fibers.
2.有关技术的叙述2. Description of related technologies
人们知道,可以将纤维素在某种合适溶剂中的溶液挤压到凝固浴中来制造纤维素纤维。这种挤压凝固方法称为“溶纺”,而用此方法制出的纤维素纤维称为溶纺纤维素纤维。此法的一例叙述在美国专利A-4,246,221中,其内容参考结合在本发明中。将纤维素溶解在一溶剂如一种叔N-氧化胺(例如N-氧化N-甲基吗啉)中。所得溶液挤压通过一合适的纺丝板生成长丝,然后经凝固、水洗除去溶剂和干燥。在凝固后的某一阶段,这些长丝通常被切短生成短纤维。人们还知道,纤维素纤维可以通过将纤维素衍生物的溶液挤压进入再生凝固浴中来制造。这种方法的一个例子就是粘胶法,在该法中纤维素纤维用的是黄原酸纤维素。这两种类型的方法均属湿纺法。溶纺比其它已知的制造纤维素纤维的方法例如粘胶法,有不少优点,例如其环境排放物较少。It is known to produce cellulose fibers by extruding a solution of cellulose in a suitable solvent into a coagulation bath. This extrusion solidification method is called "solvent spinning", and the cellulose fiber produced by this method is called solvent spinning cellulose fiber. An example of this method is described in US Patent A-4,246,221, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference. The cellulose is dissolved in a solvent such as a tertiary amine N-oxide (eg N-methylmorpholine N-oxide). The resulting solution is extruded through a suitable spinnerette to form filaments which are then coagulated, washed with water to remove the solvent and dried. At some stage after solidification, these filaments are usually chopped to form staple fibers. It is also known that cellulose fibers can be produced by extruding a solution of cellulose derivatives into a regeneration coagulation bath. An example of such a process is the viscose process in which cellulose xanthate is used as the cellulose fiber. Both types of methods are wet spinning methods. Solvent spinning has several advantages over other known methods of producing cellulose fibers such as viscose, such as its lower environmental emissions.
这里所讲的溶纺纤维素纤维是指用有机溶液纺丝方法获得的纤维素纤维,其中所用的有机溶剂基本上是有机化合物和水的混合物,并且在该方法中溶纺所包括的纤维素溶解和纺丝这两个步骤都没有生成纤维素衍生物。这里所讲的“溶纺纤维素纤维”和“Lyocell纤维”是同义词。这里所讲的溶纺纤维素织物则指许多纱线机织或针织成的织物,至少其中的有些纱线含有溶纺纤维素纤维,全部是该种纤维或与其它种纤维的混合物。The lyocell fiber mentioned here refers to the cellulose fiber obtained by the organic solution spinning method, wherein the organic solvent used is basically a mixture of organic compounds and water, and the cellulose involved in the method is lyo-spun Neither of the steps of dissolving and spinning produced cellulose derivatives. The "lyocell fiber" and "Lyocell fiber" mentioned here are synonymous. The lyocell fabric mentioned here refers to a fabric woven or knitted with many yarns, at least some of which contain lyocell fibers, all of which are fibers of this type or a mixture with other types of fibers.
纤维会有原纤化的趋势,特别是在潮湿状态受到机械应力的时候。原纤化的发生,就是纤维结构在纵向上被破坏,结果细的原纤维部分地脱离了纤维,纤维以及含该种纤维的织物(如机织或针织织物)就产生了一种多毛的外貌。含有原纤化纤维的织物,在染色后会具有“无光的”外貌,不适合美观要求。据信这种原纤化是起因于纤维在潮湿溶胀状态处理过程中的机械磨损作用。纤维在湿处理过程,例如煮炼、漂白、染色和洗涤过程中,都不可避免地会受到机械磨损的作用。处理温度高,时间长,就会产生较大程度的原纤化。溶纺纤维素织物似乎对这种磨损特别敏感,因此它与其它类型纤维素纤维的织物相比,发现更易产生原纤化。而棉织物在本性上,其原纤化趋势是很低的。Fibers have a tendency to fibrillate, especially when subjected to mechanical stress in a wet state. Fibrillation occurs when the fiber structure is disrupted longitudinally so that fine fibrils are partially detached from the fibers, giving the fibers and fabrics containing such fibers (such as woven or knitted fabrics) a hairy appearance . Fabrics containing fibrillated fibers will have a "matte" appearance after dyeing which is not suitable for aesthetics. This fibrillation is believed to result from mechanical abrasion of the fibers during handling in the wet swollen state. Fibers are inevitably subjected to mechanical abrasion during wet processing such as scouring, bleaching, dyeing and washing. If the treatment temperature is high and the time is long, a greater degree of fibrillation will occur. Lyocell fabrics seem to be particularly sensitive to this abrasion and are therefore found to be more prone to fibrillation than fabrics of other types of cellulose fibers. Cotton fabrics, on the other hand, have a very low fibrillation tendency by nature.
欧洲专利-A-538,977指出,用纤维素酶的溶液处理,可以将原纤维从原纤化机织溶纺纤维素织物上除去。纤维素酶是一种可加速纤维素发生水解的酶物质。但这种处理并不象所希望的那么有效,而且使用过的酶溶液的处置还会引起环境问题。European Patent-A-538,977 teaches that fibrils can be removed from fibrillated woven lyocell fabrics by treatment with a solution of cellulase enzymes. Cellulase is an enzyme substance that accelerates the hydrolysis of cellulose. However, this treatment is not as effective as desired, and the disposal of the used enzyme solution also poses environmental problems.
多年以来,人们就知道可用交联剂来处理纤维素织物,增加其抗皱性,例如,在Kirk—Othmer所编大全Encyclopaedia of ChemicalTechnology,3rd ed.,Volume 22(1983),Wiley—Interscience的题为“织物(整理)”(p769—790)一节中,以及在文章H.Petersen,Rev.Prog.Coloraton,Vol 17(1987),P7—22中均有介绍。交联剂有时用其它名称,如交联树脂、化学整理剂、树脂整理剂等。交联剂是含有许多官能团的小分子物质,这些基团能够与纤维素中的羟基形成交键。在常规的整理过程中,纤维素织物是先经交联剂处理,例如通过浸轧浴施加上去,然后烘干,再加热使树脂固化并引起交联(轧-烘-焙工艺)。已知这些抗皱整理处理会使纤维素织物发脆,结果使抗磨性,抗拉强度、撕破强度均有所降低。For many years, it has been known that cellulose fabrics can be treated with crosslinking agents to increase their wrinkle resistance, for example, in Encyclopaedia of Chemical Technology edited by Kirk-Othmer, 3rd ed., Volume 22 (1983), Wiley-Interscience entitled In the section "Fabrics (finishing)" (p769-790), and in the article H. Petersen, Rev. Prog. Coloraton, Vol 17 (1987), p7-22. The cross-linking agent sometimes uses other names, such as cross-linking resin, chemical finishing agent, resin finishing agent, etc. Cross-linking agents are small molecular substances containing many functional groups that can form cross-bonds with hydroxyl groups in cellulose. In conventional finishing, cellulosic fabrics are first treated with a crosslinking agent, eg applied through a pad bath, dried, and heated to cure the resin and cause crosslinking (the pad-bake-bake process). These anti-wrinkle finishes are known to embrittle cellulosic fabrics, resulting in reduced abrasion resistance, tensile strength, and tear strength.
第一批交联体系曾经是以甲醛、脲甲醛和三聚氰胺甲醛等树脂为基础的。它们有不少问题。由于外部粘结树脂的存在,这些处理会引起织物的暂时硬化。经此处理的织物在储存时容易放出难闻的气味。这些有气味的物质包括用来使树脂硬化的胺催化剂以及有毒性的甲醛。因此就认为必须洗涤处理织物以除去外部粘结的树脂和产生难闻气味的树脂生成的副产物。但这种洗涤以及随后的干燥就增加了生产成本。The first crosslinking systems were based on resins such as formaldehyde, urea-formaldehyde and melamine-formaldehyde. They have many problems. These treatments cause temporary hardening of the fabric due to the presence of external binding resins. The treated fabric tends to give off an unpleasant odor when stored. These odorous substances include the amine catalysts used to harden the resin and the poisonous formaldehyde. It is therefore considered necessary to laundere treat fabrics to remove externally bonded resins and by-products of resin formation which cause malodor. However, this washing and subsequent drying increases production costs.
上述这些体系已大都被含有所谓的“低甲醛树脂”和“零甲醛树脂”作为交联剂的体系所取代。这类交联剂有一种已知的类别,含N-羟甲基树脂即含有两个或多个N-羟甲基或N-烷氧基(尤其是N-甲氧基)的小分子物质。N-羟甲基树脂通常是连同所选择的酸催化剂使用,以改善交联性能。在一典型方法中,将一含约5—9(重量)%N-羟甲基树脂交联剂和0.4—3.5(重量)%酸催化剂的溶液浸轧到于的纤维素织物上,要达到吸液率为60—100(重量)%,然后将经润湿的织物干燥、加热使交联剂硬化固着。经低或零甲醛树脂处理的织物一般并不会暂时硬化,也不发出难闻气味。经硬化的平幅针织物和成品服装在出售给顾客之前是很少洗涤的。These above-mentioned systems have mostly been replaced by systems containing so-called "low-formaldehyde resins" and "zero-formaldehyde resins" as crosslinking agents. There is a known class of such crosslinking agents, N-methylol-containing resins, which are small molecular substances containing two or more N-methylol or N-alkoxy groups (especially N-methoxy groups) . N-methylol resins are usually used in conjunction with selected acid catalysts to improve crosslinking properties. In a typical method, a solution containing about 5-9 (weight) % N-methylol resin cross-linking agent and 0.4-3.5 (weight) % acid catalyst is padded onto a cellulose fabric to achieve The liquid absorption rate is 60-100 (weight)%. Then, the wetted fabric is dried and heated to harden and fix the crosslinking agent. Fabrics treated with low- or zero-formaldehyde resins generally do not temporarily harden and do not emit unpleasant odors. Stiffened jersey and finished garments are rarely laundered prior to sale to consumers.
本发明概要Summary of the invention
本发明的一个内容是降低溶纺纤维素织物原纤化倾向的方法,其步骤为:One content of the present invention is the method for reducing the fibrillation tendency of lyocell fabric, and its steps are:
a)用一种低或零甲醛的交联树脂对织物进行处理;a) treating the fabric with a low or zero formaldehyde crosslinking resin;
b)将织物在适当条件下加热,使树脂与纤维素发生反应;b) heating the fabric under appropriate conditions to make the resin and cellulose react;
c)将织物洗涤;c) washing the fabric;
d)将织物干燥。d) Dry the fabric.
在本发明的这个内容以及下面将述的其它内容中,织物是用交联剂树脂处理并加热以引起树脂和平幅针织物形式的纤维素发生反应的。在本发明这个内容及其它内容的一个可能是优选的实施方案中,织物以平幅针织物的形式进行洗涤和干燥,因此适合于裁切成料片供服装或其它纺织品制造之用。在本发明这个内容及其它内容的又一个实施方案中,是先将织物制成服装或其它纺织品,然后经洗涤和干燥以结束本发明方法的过程。In this aspect of the invention, as well as others described below, the fabric is treated with a crosslinker resin and heated to cause a reaction between the resin and the cellulose in the form of a wide knitted fabric. In a possibly preferred embodiment of this and other aspects of the invention, the fabric is washed and dried in flat knit form, thus suitable for cutting into panels for garment or other textile manufacture. In yet another embodiment of this and other aspects of the invention, the fabric is first formed into a garment or other textile and then washed and dried to complete the process of the invention.
本发明的第二个内容是一种降低溶纺纤维素织物原纤化程度的方法,它包括以下步骤:The second content of the present invention is a kind of method that reduces the degree of fibrillation of lyocell fabric, and it comprises the following steps:
a)用一种低或零甲醛的交联树脂对织物进行处理;a) treating the fabric with a low or zero formaldehyde crosslinking resin;
b)将织物在适当条件下加热,使树脂与纤维素发生反应;b) heating the fabric under appropriate conditions to make the resin and cellulose react;
c)将织物洗涤;c) washing the fabric;
d)将织物干燥。d) Dry the fabric.
本发明的第三个内容是一种提供原纤化程度低,原纤化倾向也低的溶纺纤维素织物的方法,它包括以下步骤:The third content of the present invention is a method for providing a low degree of fibrillation and a low fibrillation tendency of lyocell fabric, which comprises the following steps:
a)对织物进行煮炼和染色,从而引起织物中的原纤化;a) scouring and dyeing of fabrics, thereby causing fibrillation in the fabrics;
b)用一种低或零甲醛的交联树脂对织物进行处理;b) treating the fabric with a low or zero formaldehyde crosslinking resin;
c)将织物在适当条件下加热,使树脂与纤维素发生反应;c) heating the fabric under appropriate conditions to make the resin and cellulose react;
d)将织物洗涤;d) washing the fabric;
e)将织物干燥。e) Dry the fabric.
在本发明这第三个内容中,织物在步骤(a)的煮炼和染色之间可进行漂白,而在步骤(a)和(b)之间也或可插入一干燥步骤。在步骤(c)之后,织物可能显示很高的原纤化程度以致由其制造的纺织品会在商业上也是不可接受的。在步骤(e)之后,平幅针织品或纺织形式的织物,其原纤化程度很低,可合乎商业需要。In this third aspect of the invention, the fabric may be bleached between scouring and dyeing in step (a), and a drying step may also be inserted between steps (a) and (b). After step (c), the fabric may exhibit such a high degree of fibrillation that textiles made therefrom would also be commercially unacceptable. After step (e), it may be commercially desirable to fabric in open-width knit or woven form with a low degree of fibrillation.
一类较好的交联树脂是N-羟甲基树脂,一些较好的羟甲基例子可见上述Kirk—Othmer所编大全和Petesen的文章。例如有:1,3-二羟甲基亚乙基脲(DMEU)、1,3-二羟甲基亚丙基脲(DMPU)和4,5-二羟基-1,3-二羟甲基亚乙基脲(DHDMEU)。其它的例子包括基于乌龙、三嗪酮、氨基甲酸脂的化合物。另一类较好的交联剂是基于1,3-二烷基-4,5-二羟基(烷氧基)亚乙基脲及其衍生物的化合物。合适交联剂又一例子是密胺,还有个例子是丁烷四甲酸(BTCA)。还可采用多种交联树脂。A preferred class of crosslinking resins are the N-methylol resins. Examples of preferred methylol groups can be found in the above-mentioned Encyclopedia edited by Kirk-Othmer and in the article by Petesen. For example: 1,3-dimethylolethylene urea (DMEU), 1,3-dimethylol propylene urea (DMPU) and 4,5-dihydroxy-1,3-dimethylol Ethylene urea (DHDMEU). Other examples include oolong, triazone, carbamate based compounds. Another class of preferred crosslinking agents are compounds based on 1,3-dialkyl-4,5-dihydroxy(alkoxy)ethyleneureas and derivatives thereof. Yet another example of a suitable crosslinking agent is melamine, yet another example is butanetetracarboxylic acid (BTCA). A variety of crosslinking resins can also be used.
用于纤维素织物抗皱整理的交联剂通常是与一种催化剂结合起来使用的。该催化剂起加速交联反应以及硬化和固着树脂的作用。本发明的方法当使用所选择的交联剂时宜采用起这种作用的催化剂。例如,N-羟甲基树脂宜与酸催化剂连用,该种酸催化剂例如是一种有机酸如醋酸或无机酸如硝酸锌或氯化镁。潜在的酸如铵盐、胺盐和金属盐也可使用。还可以使用混合催化剂体系。Crosslinking agents for crease-resistant finishing of cellulosic fabrics are usually used in combination with a catalyst. The catalyst acts to accelerate the crosslinking reaction and harden and fix the resin. The process of the present invention advantageously employs catalysts that perform this function when using the selected crosslinking agent. For example, N-methylol resins are preferably used in combination with an acid catalyst such as an organic acid such as acetic acid or an inorganic acid such as zinc nitrate or magnesium chloride. Latent acids such as ammonium, amine and metal salts can also be used. Mixed catalyst systems may also be used.
交联剂和任何催化剂最好是用溶液(宜为水溶液)施加到织物上去。溶液施加到织物上可用一些已知的方法,例如,可将溶液浸轧到织物上,或者可令织物通过该溶液的处理浴。织物可以是机织或针织物。溶液应含至少约2(重量)%的交联剂,以3—6(重量)%为宜。若用催化剂,其含量可含有至少1(重量)%,1—2(重量)%为宜。The crosslinking agent and any catalyst are preferably applied to the fabric from a solution, preferably an aqueous solution. The solution can be applied to the fabric by known methods, for example, the solution can be applied to the fabric by padding, or the fabric can be passed through a treatment bath of the solution. Fabrics may be woven or knitted. The solution should contain at least about 2% by weight of crosslinking agent, preferably 3-6% by weight. If a catalyst is used, its content can contain at least 1 (weight)%, preferably 1-2 (weight).
按本发明方法进行交联树脂处理后,即将织物加热使交联剂固着硬化。织物也可进行干燥。加热步骤可以在干燥步骤之前,干燥的同时或之后进行。加热所需的时间和温度由所用的交联剂和催化剂的性质而定。在加热以及或可采用的干燥之后,织物可含有至少约0.5(重量%),较好约1.0(重量)%,更好约2.0(重量)%的固着交联剂(基于纤维素重量计算),但通常不会超过4(重量)%。通常发现,湿织物中的70—90%交联剂会固着于纤维素上。After the cross-linking resin treatment is carried out according to the method of the present invention, the fabric is heated to fix and harden the cross-linking agent. The fabric can also be dried. The heating step may be performed before, simultaneously with or after the drying step. The time and temperature required for heating will depend on the nature of the crosslinking agent and catalyst used. After heating and or optional drying, the fabric may contain at least about 0.5 wt%, preferably about 1.0 wt%, more preferably about 2.0 wt% of anchored crosslinking agent (based on cellulose weight) , but usually not more than 4 (weight)%. It is generally found that 70-90% of the crosslinking agent in the wet fabric will be fixed to the cellulose.
浴中树脂的浓度是根据该种树脂的活性和硬化效率来选择的,务期在织物上获得所需固着树脂的数量。The concentration of the resin in the bath is selected according to the activity and hardening efficiency of the resin in order to obtain the desired amount of fixed resin on the fabric.
在加热和固着之后,按通常用于纤维素织物的步骤进行洗涤和干燥。After heating and fixing, washing and drying are carried out as usual for cellulosic fabrics.
一般认为交联剂会降低纤维素织物的抗磨损性,但按本发明方法处理的织物,其原纤化程度非常低,这是特别令人惊异的。本发明方法需要另一个湿处理步骤,而如前所述,湿处理步骤会引起溶纺纤维素织物原纤化。Crosslinking agents are generally believed to reduce the abrasion resistance of cellulosic fabrics, but the very low degree of fibrillation of fabrics treated in accordance with the present invention is particularly surprising. The method of the present invention requires a further wet processing step which, as previously mentioned, causes fibrillation of the lyocell fabric.
按本发明处理的织物与未处理织物相比,具有极好的抗原纤化性能。按本发明处理的织物适合于制造衣服等纺织品。这种纺织品可以浆洗,其原纤维化倾向仍然保持很小,或仅缓慢地增加。Fabrics treated according to the invention have excellent anti-fibrillation properties compared to untreated fabrics. Fabrics treated according to the invention are suitable for making textiles such as clothing. Such textiles can be starched and the tendency to fibrillation remains small or only increases slowly.
本发明的方法可应用于已经染色的织物,包括那些采用诸如已知会引起机械磨损的绳状染色方法进行染色的织物。这是本发明的一个优点,因为人们知道,对织物进行绳状染色通常会改善织物的膨化和松弛,导致优良的手感。本发明的方法可用于已经原纤化,甚至已严重原纤化的织物,很令人惊异地发现,当具有很高原纤化程度的织物经过本发明方法处理后,其原纤化程度一般是很低的。对大多数用途来说,有很高原纤化程度的织物被认为是质量次级的,结果是对它进行以后的加工制作,在成本上都是不划算的。本发明特别的优点就是可以使这种质量次的织物转变为质量一流的织物和纺织品。The method of the present invention is applicable to already dyed fabrics, including those dyed by methods such as rope dyeing which are known to cause mechanical abrasion. This is an advantage of the present invention because it is known that rope dyeing of fabrics generally improves bulk and relaxation of the fabric, resulting in a superior hand. The method of the present invention can be used for already fibrillated, even the fabric of severe fibrillation, it is surprisingly found that when the fabric with a very high degree of fibrillation is processed by the method of the present invention, its degree of fibrillation is generally very low. For most purposes, a fabric with a high degree of fibrillation is considered to be of substandard quality, and consequently its subsequent fabrication is not cost-effective. A particular advantage of the present invention is that it allows such poor quality fabrics to be transformed into first quality fabrics and textiles.
用下面所述的测试方法1对材料进行原纤化程度的测量。测试方法1(原纤化测量)The degree of fibrillation of the material was measured using Test Method 1 described below. Test Method 1 (Fibrillation Measurement)
原纤化的测量并没有公认的标准方法。采用了下述方法来求原纤化指数(F.I.)。将一些纤维样品按其原纤维化程度依次增高排列起来。对每一根纤维样品,量出一标准长度。然后沿此标准长度计数出原纤维(由纤维主体向外延伸的纤细毛刺)的根数,再量出每根原纤维的长度。将每根纤维的原纤维根数乘以原纤维平均长度之积,得一数值。这个乘积数值最高的纤维被认为是原纤维化程度最高的纤维,并定义为原纤化指数10。完全没有原纤化的纤维,其原纤化指数定为零,而其余的纤维则根据用显微镜法测量的该人为数植均匀地排在0至10之间。There is no accepted standard method for the measurement of fibrillation. The following method was used to obtain the fibrillation index (F.I.). Some fiber samples were arranged in order of increasing degree of fibrillation. For each fiber sample, measure a standard length. Then count the number of fibrils (fine burrs extending outward from the main fiber body) along this standard length, and then measure the length of each fibril. A value is obtained by multiplying the number of fibrils per fiber by the product of the average length of fibrils. The fiber with the highest value for this product was considered the most fibrillated fiber and was defined as a fibrillation index of 10. The fibrillation index of fibers completely free of fibrillation was assigned zero, while the rest of the fibers were evenly ranked between 0 and 10 according to the number measured microscopically.
用此测量过的纤维,就为原纤化指数建立了一种标准级别。若要测量任一种其它纤维样品的原纤化指数,将其5根或10根纤维与标准级别的纤维在显微镜下进行目测比较,将各纤维的目测数值加以平均,得出被测试样的原纤化指数。目测比较得值与平均,比实际测量快许多倍,发现纤维技术人员只要熟练,其测量的结果是一致的。With the fibers thus measured, a standard rating was established for the fibrillation index. If you want to measure the fibrillation index of any other fiber sample, compare its 5 or 10 fibers with the standard-grade fiber visually under a microscope, and average the visual values of each fiber to obtain the value of the tested sample. Fibrillation index. The visual comparison of the value and the average is many times faster than the actual measurement, and it is found that as long as the fiber technician is skilled, the measurement results are consistent.
可以从织物表面抽取纤维进行原纤化指数的测量。F.I.%超过2.0至2.5的机织和针织织物,其外观即不悦目了。Fibers can be extracted from the fabric surface for fibrillation index measurement. Woven and knitted fabrics with an F.I.% exceeding 2.0 to 2.5 have an unsightly appearance.
优选实施方案的叙述Description of the preferred embodiment
下面将用实施例来说明本发明。在每一例中,所用的未干燥纤维的制法是将N-氧化N-甲基吗啉(NMMO)的溶液挤压进入一水浴,然后再水洗生成的纤维至基本上不含NMMO。The present invention will be illustrated below with examples. In each case, the undried fibers used were prepared by extruding a solution of N-methylmorpholine N-oxide (NMMO) into a water bath and then water washing the resulting fibers to be substantially free of NMMO.
实施例Example
取一种F.I.为零的100%溶纺纤维素细纱机织织物,经退浆、煮炼和喷射染色机染色。退浆是用pH6.5—7.5的1.5g/l商品淀粉酶制剂的水溶液在70℃进行45分钟。煮炼是用含2g/l碳酸钠和2g/l阳离子洗涤剂的水溶液在95℃进行60分钟。染色则是用一种含有普施安海军(Procion Navy)HE—R150染料(Procion是Zeneca plc的商标)(染料重量为织物重量的4%)、80g/l硫酸钠和20g/l碳酸钠的水溶液在85℃进行120分钟。随后织物先在70℃,后在室温用水漂洗;用一含2g/l Sandopur SR(Sandopur是SandozAG的商标)的水溶液在95℃去皂洗(soap off)20分钟;脱水;最后干燥。这一步骤是纤维素织物的典型绳状处理过程。经这样处理的纤维原纤化很严重,其F.I.为4.5。A F.I. zero 100% lyocell spun woven fabric was desized, scoured and jet dyed. Desizing is carried out at 70°C for 45 minutes with an aqueous solution of 1.5 g/l commercial amylase preparation at pH 6.5-7.5. Scouring was carried out at 95°C for 60 minutes with an aqueous solution containing 2 g/l sodium carbonate and 2 g/l cationic detergent. Dyeing is done with a dye containing Procion Navy HE-R150 (Procion is a trademark of Zeneca plc) (the weight of the dye is 4% of the weight of the fabric), 80g/l sodium sulfate and 20g/l sodium carbonate. The aqueous solution was carried out at 85°C for 120 minutes. The fabric was subsequently rinsed with water at 70°C and then at room temperature; soaped off at 95°C for 20 minutes with an aqueous solution containing 2 g/l Sandopur SR (Sandopur is a trademark of Sandoz AG); dehydration; and finally dried. This step is a typical rope-like process for cellulosic fabrics. The fibers thus treated were highly fibrillated with an F.I. of 4.5.
将染色织物的样品用不同含量的低甲醛树脂DHDMEU(供自Hoechst AG,商标为Arkofix NG conc)的水溶液进行浸轧。该溶液含有由该树脂供应厂家推荐的能释放酸的催化剂,其量为ArkofixNG conc的25(重量)%。该织物样品然后于110℃干燥,180℃树脂快速硬化30秒钟。将织物样品再装到喷射染色机,再如前煮炼两次。样品又经脱水,用一含50g/l聚硅氧烷类柔软剂(由Redolf Chemi-cals Ltd提供,商标为Rucofin AO736)的分散液进行湿布轧液浸轧,再在110℃干燥。结果列于表1。Samples of the dyed fabrics were padded with aqueous solutions of the low-formaldehyde resin DHDMEU (available from Hoechst AG under the trade mark Arkofix NG conc) with varying contents. The solution contained the acid-releasing catalyst recommended by the resin supplier in an amount of 25% by weight of ArkofixNG conc. The fabric samples were then dried at 110°C and the resin was rapidly hardened for 30 seconds at 180°C. The fabric samples were reloaded into the jet dyeing machine and scoured twice as before. The sample was dehydrated again, and was wet cloth padding with a dispersion containing 50g/l polysiloxane softener (supplied by Redolf Chemi-cals Ltd, trademark Rucofin AO736), and then dried at 110°C. The results are listed in Table 1.
表1浴中树脂%w/w 0.0 1.0 2.0 4.0 6.0 8.0固着于织物上的树 0.0 0.5 1.0 2.0 3.0 4.0脂%w/wF.I. 5.8 1.9 1.5 0.5 0.4 0.3Table 1 Resin % W/W 0.0 1.0 2.0 4.0 6.0 8.0 Table in the bath is 0.0 0.5 1.0 2.0 3.0 4.0 fat % W/WF.I. 5.8 1.5 0.5 0.3 0.3
固着在织物上树脂的量,其数字是根据Arkofix NG中有70%活性固体、80%轧出液、85%硬化效率估计出来的值。The amount of resin fixed on the fabric is estimated based on Arkofix NG having 70% active solids, 80% extrusion fluid, and 85% hardening efficiency.
可以看出,未经处理的织物的F.I.在上述那些进一步湿处理过程中增加至4.5,而相反地,树脂处理实际上将织物的F.I.由4.5减少到商业上可接受的值即1.9乃至更小。It can be seen that the F.I. of the untreated fabric increases to 4.5 during further wet treatments like those described above, whereas conversely, the resin treatment actually reduces the F.I. of the fabric from 4.5 to a commercially acceptable value of 1.9 or even less .
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| DE4431635A1 (en) * | 1994-09-06 | 1996-03-07 | Basf Ag | Process for the production of cellulose fibers |
| AT403296B (en) * | 1995-08-11 | 1997-12-29 | Chemiefaser Lenzing Ag | METHOD FOR PRODUCING A CELLULOSE MOLDED BODY |
| AT402740B (en) * | 1995-10-06 | 1997-08-25 | Chemiefaser Lenzing Ag | CELLULOSE FIBER |
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| US6375685B2 (en) | 1997-05-13 | 2002-04-23 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Textile finishing process |
| US6036731A (en) * | 1997-06-04 | 2000-03-14 | Ciba Specialty Chemicals Corporation | Crosslinking of cellulosic fiber materials |
| US6565612B2 (en) | 1998-09-30 | 2003-05-20 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Shrink resistant rayon fabrics |
| WO2001073186A2 (en) * | 2000-03-29 | 2001-10-04 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Methods for improving fibrillation or pill resistance of fabrics and fabrics with improved properties |
| GB0101815D0 (en) | 2001-01-24 | 2001-03-07 | Tencel Ltd | Dyed lyocell fabric |
| ATA1332004A (en) * | 2004-01-30 | 2005-10-15 | Chemiefaser Lenzing Ag | METHOD FOR THE TREATMENT OF SOLVENT-SPUN CELLULOSIC FIBERS |
| AT513761A1 (en) * | 2012-12-27 | 2014-07-15 | Chemiefaser Lenzing Ag | Non-fibrillating, flame retardant cellulosic sheet, its use and method of making the same |
| CN103510383B (en) * | 2013-09-10 | 2016-04-27 | 上海工程技术大学 | A kind of method improving Lyocell bamboo fiber anti-wrinkle shrink-proof performance |
| CN104005225B (en) * | 2014-06-05 | 2016-08-24 | 山东英利实业有限公司 | A kind of method reducing lyocell fiber cellulose fiber fibrillation tendency |
| EP3467171A1 (en) * | 2017-10-06 | 2019-04-10 | Lenzing Aktiengesellschaft | Lyocell filament denim |
| EP3467172A1 (en) | 2017-10-06 | 2019-04-10 | Lenzing Aktiengesellschaft | Silk-like woven garment containing or consisting of lyocell filaments |
| CN109826016A (en) * | 2019-01-25 | 2019-05-31 | 达利(中国)有限公司 | A kind of efficient finishing technique for promoting viscose glue kind fabric hygrometric state tearing brute force |
| CN115058006B (en) * | 2022-06-14 | 2023-11-21 | 浙江宝丽丝科技有限公司 | Crosslinking agent and crosslinking method thereof used for dyeing of lyocell fiber yarn bobbins |
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| GB9304887D0 (en) * | 1993-03-10 | 1993-04-28 | Courtaulds Plc | Fibre treatment |
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