CN110495660A - A fabric that maintains wearing comfort and elegant appearance during exercise - Google Patents

A fabric that maintains wearing comfort and elegant appearance during exercise Download PDF

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Publication number
CN110495660A
CN110495660A CN201810469856.1A CN201810469856A CN110495660A CN 110495660 A CN110495660 A CN 110495660A CN 201810469856 A CN201810469856 A CN 201810469856A CN 110495660 A CN110495660 A CN 110495660A
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fabric
water
layer
cloth
sweat
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胡军岩
陈鸿飞
翟国钧
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Best Pacific Textile Ltd
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Best Pacific Textile Ltd
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Priority to CN201810469856.1A priority Critical patent/CN110495660A/en
Priority to PCT/CN2019/070230 priority patent/WO2019218700A1/en
Publication of CN110495660A publication Critical patent/CN110495660A/en
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D1/00Garments
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D31/00Materials specially adapted for outerwear
    • A41D31/02Layered materials
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D31/00Materials specially adapted for outerwear
    • A41D31/04Materials specially adapted for outerwear characterised by special function or use
    • A41D31/14Air permeable, i.e. capable of being penetrated by gases
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D2500/00Materials for garments
    • A41D2500/20Woven
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D2500/00Materials for garments
    • A41D2500/30Non-woven
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D2600/00Uses of garments specially adapted for specific purposes
    • A41D2600/10Uses of garments specially adapted for specific purposes for sport activities

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)

Abstract

本发明公开了一种适用于日常运动与生活穿着的功能性面料的设计与制备方法。通过将织物设计成正反两面具有不同功能的织物,并且该织物按功能区分逻辑上可以具有三层结构,由布底向布面,(1)拒水性导水层;(2)亲水性储水层及(3)视觉干扰层。其中层(2)又可以进一步分解为亲水性导水储水层与(2.2)亲水性导水快干层(可选),从而实现了织物在穿着过程中,特别是在出汗时,织物不但能将汗液从布底面排离以保持皮肤与布面接触的干爽与舒适的感觉,同时也降低汗水在布面形成明显的水迹或汗迹的可能从而保持了穿着者优雅的外观,在一定程度上也提高了服装防雨的能力。本发明的设计原理适用于针织,梭织及无纺布结构。

The invention discloses a design and preparation method of a functional fabric suitable for daily sports and life wear. By designing the fabric as a fabric with different functions on the front and back sides, and the fabric can logically have a three-layer structure according to the functional distinction, from the bottom of the cloth to the cloth surface, (1) water-repellent and water-conducting layer; (2) hydrophilic storage layer Water layer and (3) visual interference layer. The middle layer (2) can be further decomposed into a hydrophilic water-conducting water storage layer and (2.2) a hydrophilic water-conducting quick-drying layer (optional), so that the fabric can be worn during wearing, especially when sweating. , the fabric can not only drain sweat from the bottom of the cloth to keep the skin dry and comfortable in contact with the cloth, but also reduce the possibility of sweat forming obvious water marks or sweat marks on the cloth, thus maintaining the elegant appearance of the wearer , To a certain extent, it also improves the ability of clothing to prevent rain. The design principles of the present invention are applicable to knitted, woven and non-woven structures.

Description

一种在运动过程中保持穿着舒适及优雅外观织物A fabric that maintains wearing comfort and elegant appearance during exercise

技术领域technical field

本发明涉及纺织功能面料设计与制备领域,尤其涉及一种织物在穿着过程中,特别是在出汗时,织物不但能将汗液从布底排离以保持皮肤与布底微环境的干爽与穿着热湿舒适感觉性,同时也降低汗水在布面形成明显的水迹或汗迹的可能,从而保持了穿着者优雅的外观与视觉的舒适。The invention relates to the field of design and preparation of textile functional fabrics, in particular to a fabric that can not only discharge sweat from the bottom of the cloth to keep the microenvironment of the skin and the bottom of the cloth dry and comfortable during wearing, especially when sweating. The heat and humidity comfort feeling also reduces the possibility of sweat forming obvious water marks or sweat marks on the cloth surface, thereby maintaining the elegant appearance and visual comfort of the wearer.

背景技术Background technique

随着经济的发展,现代消费者越来越重视个人的生活方式的改进与生活质量的提升。不仅仅追求自身的生理心理方面的健康,更努力寻求个人发展及社会认同。在这一过程中努力实现个人,人与人,人与自然之间的和谐与共荣。因此广大消费者对服装在使用过程中越来越注重穿着的舒适性及穿着过程中的服装礼仪。传统的服装设计通常侧重于服装的装饰性或美观,满足使用者能符合某一社群的礼仪与规则的需求;近代发展的功能服装设计则侧重于对使用者个体的防护(功能),而弱于对美观,特别是礼仪方面需求的考量。With the development of the economy, modern consumers pay more and more attention to the improvement of personal lifestyle and the improvement of the quality of life. Not only to pursue their own physical and psychological health, but also to seek personal development and social identity. In this process, strive to achieve harmony and co-prosperity among individuals, between people, between people and nature. Therefore consumers pay more and more attention to the comfort of wearing and the clothing etiquette in the process of wearing clothes in the process of using clothes. Traditional clothing design usually focuses on the decoration or beauty of clothing to meet the needs of users to meet the etiquette and rules of a certain community; modern functional clothing design focuses on the protection (function) of individual users, while Weaker than considerations for aesthetics, especially etiquette.

例如,假设某人早上运动后或上班途中出汗了,回到工作地却没有时间洗澡更衣,接下来就需要参加一些商务的活动。此时如果服装面料无论是普通全棉类的还是吸湿快干或吸湿排汗功能类的面料通常都在出汗后在面料的正面出现汗迹或水印,而影响了服装外观的优雅,不太适合正式的商务活动,恐有失基本礼仪。因此在现代生活中人们需要一种能满足不同运动条件,适应多种场景的功能面料服装。希望有一种面料在运动出汗时能将汗液排离面料底面,而保持穿着的舒适感,同时又不会在面料的外表面形成水印而影响观瞻。For example, suppose a person sweats after exercising in the morning or on the way to work, but has no time to take a shower and change clothes when returning to work, and then needs to participate in some business activities. At this time, if the clothing fabric is ordinary cotton or moisture-absorbing and quick-drying or moisture-absorbing and sweat-wicking fabrics, sweat marks or watermarks usually appear on the front of the fabric after sweating, which affects the appearance of the garment. Suitable for formal business activities, for fear of losing basic etiquette. Therefore, in modern life, people need a functional fabric clothing that can meet different sports conditions and adapt to multiple scenes. It is hoped that there is a kind of fabric that can drain sweat away from the bottom surface of the fabric when sweating during sports, so as to maintain the comfort of wearing, and at the same time, it will not form watermarks on the outer surface of the fabric to affect the appearance.

通过对专利库的检索,许多现有技术已经对面料的吸湿快干或单向导湿功能进行了广泛的研究。例如CN1985036A“具有水分管理性能的机织织物”报道了一种机织织物由疏水性和亲水性材料的通常均匀机织的结构组成,并且具有疏水性和亲水性材料的内部和外部暴露表面。从而实现了汗水由布底向布面的单向传递。基于织物表面能的差别导致液态水的单向流动这一基本原理,出现了诸多新的专利报道。CN207044828U“单向导湿面料”通过原棉纱线与亲水纱线交织而成的局部拒水纱,及表层纱布的亲水纱线支数大于里层纱布的原棉纱线。从而无需任何化学处理工艺实现了单向导湿。又如CN206033999U“单向导湿吸湿发热针织面料”通过不同纱线的搭配组合使得该面料具有单向导湿的功能,同时还实现了吸湿发热的功能。这一些现有技术较好地解决了皮肤表面的汗水向外排湿而提高了穿着过程中的热湿舒适性,但是也存在着此类功能面料的外表面比无此功能的面料因为更多的汗水到达而更容易出现水迹。因此目前在服装设计中为了避免出现令人尴尬的汗印,人们有时会将单导面料反底为面,反过来应用。使得汗水不排出去,尽量锁在里面。如此设计方法虽然在一定程度上缓解了外观的水印问题,但由于汗水无法排出而穿着者的舒适感下降了许多,同时由于面料的可透视程度不一,轻薄型面料在布底的水印往往在布面还是可以被观察到。By searching the patent library, many existing technologies have carried out extensive research on the moisture absorption and quick-drying or unidirectional moisture-wicking function of fabrics. For example CN1985036A "Woven Fabric with Moisture Management Properties" reports a woven fabric consisting of a generally uniformly woven structure of hydrophobic and hydrophilic materials with internal and external exposure of hydrophobic and hydrophilic materials surface. Thus, the one-way transmission of sweat from the bottom of the cloth to the cloth surface is realized. Based on the basic principle that the difference in fabric surface energy leads to the one-way flow of liquid water, many new patent reports have emerged. CN207044828U "one-way moisture-guiding fabric" is a local water-repellent yarn formed by interweaving raw cotton yarn and hydrophilic yarn, and the raw cotton yarn whose hydrophilic yarn count of surface layer gauze is greater than that of inner layer gauze. Thus, one-way moisture transfer is realized without any chemical treatment process. Another example is CN206033999U "one-way moisture-absorbing and heating knitted fabric" which makes the fabric have the function of one-way moisture-guiding through the combination of different yarns, and also realizes the function of moisture absorption and heating. These existing technologies have better solved the problem of moisture drainage of sweat on the surface of the skin and improved the heat and humidity comfort during wearing, but there is also the fact that the outer surface of this type of functional fabric is more expensive than fabrics without this function. Sweat arrives and is more prone to water marks. Therefore, in order to avoid embarrassing sweat marks in clothing design, people sometimes turn the single guide fabric from the bottom to the surface, and apply it in reverse. So that the sweat is not discharged, try to lock it inside. Although such a design method alleviates the watermark problem of the appearance to a certain extent, the comfort of the wearer is greatly reduced because the sweat cannot be discharged. At the same time, due to the different degrees of see-through of the fabric, the watermark on the bottom of the light and thin fabric is often on the surface. The cloth surface can still be seen.

近年来,无汗迹(印)功能面料的研究获得业界的关注。已经可以检索到相关关键词的专利报导。例如CN201610612603.6“一种织物防汗迹整理工艺”其选用亲水性的非离子柔软剂,通过对织物进行吸湿排汗柔软处理,使汗液可以瞬间吸收和挥发,透气性良好,穿着舒适;选用复配的涂层助剂,可在针织织物表面形成带有很多透气微细气孔的薄膜涂层,并且每个微细孔都比汗液小又比人体的汗气分子大,通过将汗液以气态的形式散发出去,从而使汗渍在织物表面不留痕迹。In recent years, the research on non-perspiration (printing) functional fabrics has attracted the attention of the industry. Patent reports with relevant keywords can already be retrieved. For example, CN201610612603.6 "A fabric anti-sweat stain finishing process" uses a hydrophilic non-ionic softener, and performs moisture absorption and perspiration softening on the fabric, so that sweat can be absorbed and volatilized instantly, with good air permeability and comfortable wearing; The compound coating additive can be used to form a film coating with many breathable micro pores on the surface of the knitted fabric, and each micro pore is smaller than sweat and larger than the sweat molecules of the human body. Form disperses, so that sweat stains leave no trace on the surface of the fabric.

CN103161045A“一种吸湿排汗针织织物的防汗迹整理方法”报道了一种工艺流程:针织织物柔软加工→调浆→针织织物正面防汗迹加工→防汗迹检验→培烘。通过对针织织物进行吸湿排汗柔软处理,使汗液可以瞬间吸收和挥发;再以涂料印花的方式,在针织织物表面形成带有很多透气微细气孔的薄膜涂层,并且每个微细孔都比汗液小又比人体的汗气分子大,通过将汗液以气态的形式散发出去,从而使汗渍在服装外表不留痕迹,因此,起到了防汗迹的效果。CN107447531A“一种防汗迹T恤的制备工艺”涉及一种防汗迹T恤的制备工艺,包括如下步骤:(1)T恤吸水速干处理;(2)制备防水涂料,该防水涂料是由以下重量份的组分组成:C6防水剂TG-5521 50-60份、有机硅防水剂36-44份和异氰酸酯4-6份;(3)T恤正面防汗迹加工;(4)T恤后处理。防汗迹T恤的制备工艺,优选复配的防水涂料,使用涂层机对T恤表面进行涂层,可在T恤表面形成带有很多透气微细气孔的薄膜涂层,从而将汗液以气态的形式散发出去,进而使汗渍在T恤表面不留痕迹,在保持T恤原有弹性的基础上,T恤非常均匀的达到防汗迹效果,并且没有透影的出现。CN103161045A "A Method for Sweat-proof Finishing of Moisture-absorbing and Perspiration-wicking Knitted Fabrics" reports a process flow: knitted fabric softening processing → size adjustment → sweat-proof processing on the front of knitted fabrics → sweat-proof inspection → drying. Moisture absorption and perspiration softening treatment is performed on the knitted fabric, so that the sweat can be absorbed and volatilized instantly; and then a film coating with many breathable micro pores is formed on the surface of the knitted fabric by means of pigment printing, and each micro pore is larger than sweat Smaller than the sweat molecules of the human body, it emits the sweat in a gaseous state, so that the sweat stains do not leave traces on the surface of the clothing, therefore, it has the effect of preventing sweat marks. CN107447531A "Preparation process of a sweat-proof T-shirt" relates to a preparation process of a sweat-proof T-shirt, comprising the following steps: (1) water-absorbing and quick-drying treatment of the T-shirt; (2) preparing a waterproof coating, which is It consists of the following components by weight: C6 waterproofing agent TG-5521 50-60 parts, silicone waterproofing agent 36-44 parts and isocyanate 4-6 parts; (3) T-shirt front anti-sweat stain processing; (4) T-shirt T-shirt post-processing. The preparation process of the anti-sweat T-shirt is preferably a compound waterproof coating. Using a coating machine to coat the surface of the T-shirt can form a film coating with a lot of breathable micro-pores on the surface of the T-shirt, so that the sweat is released in a gaseous state. The sweat stains will not leave traces on the surface of the T-shirt. On the basis of maintaining the original elasticity of the T-shirt, the T-shirt can achieve the anti-sweat effect very evenly, and there is no see-through.

综合上述专利检索分析,防汗迹的整理目前所基于的基本原理是通过对织物进行吸湿快干的整理,再进一步在织物的外表面进行涂层处理。织物吸收的液体通过蒸发以气态的方式穿过薄膜。但是存在这样的一种情况:无论织物以多快的速度蒸发快干,织物都会有一个先润湿然后再蒸发最后才达到干爽这样的一个过程。在这一过程中,由于面料中含有液态水,因此当我们的视线到达含水织物表面时,由于织物中水对光线的折射,反射特性与无水状态时的织物不同这造成水迹的视觉效果;同时如果从技术上将液态水阻止在布底也造成使用者的穿着舒适体验的下降。Based on the above-mentioned patent retrieval analysis, the basic principle of finishing anti-perspiration stains is to perform moisture absorption and quick-drying finishing on the fabric, and then further coat the outer surface of the fabric. The liquid absorbed by the fabric passes through the membrane in gaseous form by evaporation. But there is such a situation: no matter how fast the fabric evaporates and dries quickly, the fabric will have a process of wetting first, then evaporating, and finally reaching dryness. In this process, because the fabric contains liquid water, when our line of sight reaches the surface of the fabric containing water, due to the refraction of light by the water in the fabric, the reflection characteristics are different from those of the fabric in an anhydrous state, which causes the visual effect of water marks ; At the same time, if the liquid water is technically stopped at the bottom of the cloth, it will also cause a decline in the user's wearing comfort experience.

附图说明Description of drawings

图1描述无汗迹面料设计原理图Figure 1 depicts the schematic diagram of the design of the non-sweat fabric

图2描述光线到达织物表面再传递特性Figure 2 describes the retransmission characteristics of light reaching the surface of the fabric

图3描述GB1和GB2垫纱图Figure 3 depicts GB1 and GB2 laying diagrams

图4描述GB1和GB2垫纱图Figure 4 depicts GB1 and GB2 laying diagrams

图5描述GB5垫纱图Figure 5 describes the GB5 laying diagram

图6为典型无汗迹面料后整理实现工艺流程Figure 6 shows the process flow of finishing after typical sweat-free fabrics

发明内容Contents of the invention

针对前述提出的情况,吸湿快干面料理论上说布面与布底都有一个润湿过程,某一个时间段内由于织物中,特别是织物的外表面由于有液态水的存在,光线在织物中和/或表面的传递特性被改变。因为含水织物的光学特性如反射,透射,散射或吸收等相对于未含水同一织物有显著不同,因此当视线到达织物表面后通过织物表面的反射,散射等多种方法再回到我们眼睛,就会发现与未含水部分的视象效果的差异进而在我们大脑中形成了水迹的认知。有关光线到达织物表面而被我们眼睛所看见的原理如图2所示。In view of the above-mentioned situation, the moisture absorption and quick-drying fabric theoretically has a wetting process on both the surface and the bottom of the fabric. In a certain period of time, due to the presence of liquid water in the fabric, especially on the outer surface of the fabric, the light on the fabric The transfer properties of the neutral and/or surface are altered. Because the optical properties of water-containing fabrics such as reflection, transmission, scattering or absorption are significantly different from those of the same fabric without water, when the line of sight reaches the surface of the fabric and returns to our eyes through reflection, scattering and other methods on the surface of the fabric, it is We will find the difference in the visual effect of the non-water part and then form the perception of water traces in our brains. The principle of light reaching the surface of the fabric and being seen by our eyes is shown in Figure 2.

因此基于上述对织物中汗迹(水印)形成机理的理解,本发明人提出了一种新的概念与实现工艺来解除汗迹在穿着过程中对使用者的困惑同时又能提高使用者的穿着舒适体验。本发明对织物设计的基本原则是让汗液从织物的底面(临近穿着者皮肤面)尽可能多地传递到织物的中间层;在此中间层进行储存与蒸发;在织物的外面尽量阻止中间层的液体向外表面的渗透,使得外表面在一定厚度范围内存在一个不能被润湿的区域。同时由于视觉效果取决于环境光源的织物对光波的吸收与反射特性,因此通过织物结构设计提高光线反射和散射机会;或通过印花等手段形成一个视觉上非透明的外表面以减弱外表面的镜面反射和被透视的效果,从而解决了织物表面因含水所导致水渍/汗渍问题。Therefore, based on the above-mentioned understanding of the formation mechanism of sweat marks (watermarks) in fabrics, the inventor proposes a new concept and implementation process to relieve the confusion of sweat marks in the process of wearing the user while improving the wear of the user. Comfortable experience. The basic principle of fabric design of the present invention is to allow perspiration to be transferred to the middle layer of fabric as much as possible from the bottom surface of fabric (near the wearer's skin surface); Storage and evaporation are carried out in this middle layer; Stop middle layer as far as possible outside fabric The penetration of the liquid to the outer surface, so that there is an area of the outer surface that cannot be wetted within a certain thickness range. At the same time, since the visual effect depends on the absorption and reflection characteristics of the light wave of the fabric of the ambient light source, the chance of light reflection and scattering is improved through the design of the fabric structure; or a visually non-transparent outer surface is formed by means of printing to weaken the mirror surface of the outer surface The effect of reflection and perspective, thus solving the problem of water/perspiration stains caused by water on the surface of the fabric.

为实现在穿着过程中特别是出汗时既能保持皮肤干爽与舒适的感觉又能在织物的外表面降低汗水形成水迹或汗迹的可能,本发明公开了一种具有特定正反两面不同功能的织物的设计与制备方法,从而满足了穿着者既舒适干爽的穿着体验要求又保持了穿着者优雅的外观。某种程度上还能提高使用者抵抗外部环境的能力,织物的外表面不容易被沾湿或沾污,易于清理。In order to keep the skin dry and comfortable during wearing, especially when sweating, and reduce the possibility of sweat forming water marks or sweat marks on the outer surface of the fabric, the present invention discloses a fabric with specific front and back sides. The design and preparation method of the functional fabric satisfies the requirements of the wearer for a comfortable and dry wearing experience while maintaining the elegant appearance of the wearer. To some extent, it can also improve the user's ability to resist the external environment. The outer surface of the fabric is not easy to be wet or stained, and is easy to clean.

具体介绍本发明。如图1所示,该织物在厚度方向按功能区分逻辑上至少具有三层结构,由布底向布面,(1)拒水性导水层;(2)亲水性储水层及(3)视觉干扰层。其中层(2)又可以进一步分解为亲水性导水储水层与(2.2)亲水性导水快干层(可选);The present invention will be described in detail. As shown in Figure 1, the fabric has at least three layers of structure logically according to the function of the thickness direction, from the bottom of the cloth to the cloth surface, (1) water-repellent water-conducting layer; (2) hydrophilic water storage layer and (3) Visual distraction layer. The middle layer (2) can be further decomposed into a hydrophilic water-conducting water storage layer and (2.2) a hydrophilic water-conducting quick-drying layer (optional);

层(1)为拒水性导水层:它的主要功能是当面料接触在汗水时能将液体快速地吸离织物的表面,从而使皮肤与面料的接触保持干爽。业内公知的吸湿快干技术,单向导湿排汗技术等都有助于此功能的实现。在本发明中基于提高消费者舒适感体验的需求出发,本发明优选以亲水性纱和/或疏水性纱交织/后整理方式构成拒水导水层,并且疏水性纱在布底的覆盖面积大于50%,优选约65-85%,保留一定比例的亲水纱形成导水通道;另一个优选的技术方案是拒水性导水层选100%疏水纱构成大网眼结构,镂空面积10%-80%之间,优选30%。水可以通过网眼的空隙直接与亲水性导水/储水层相接触而被吸收。同时疏水低回潮率纱又能使皮肤与面料的接触保持干爽。Layer (1) is a water-repellent water-conducting layer: its main function is to quickly absorb liquid away from the surface of the fabric when the fabric is in contact with sweat, so that the contact between the skin and the fabric remains dry. The well-known moisture absorption and quick-drying technology in the industry, and the one-way moisture-wicking technology are all helpful for the realization of this function. In the present invention, based on the need to improve consumer comfort experience, the present invention preferably uses hydrophilic yarns and/or hydrophobic yarns to interweave/finish the water-repellent water-conducting layer, and the coverage of hydrophobic yarns on the cloth bottom The area is greater than 50%, preferably about 65-85%, retaining a certain proportion of hydrophilic yarns to form water-guiding channels; another preferred technical solution is to choose 100% hydrophobic yarns for the water-repellent water-guiding layer to form a large mesh structure, and the hollowed out area is 10% Between -80%, preferably 30%. Water can be absorbed through direct contact with the hydrophilic water-conducting/water-storing layer through the pores of the mesh. At the same time, the hydrophobic low moisture regain yarn can keep the contact between the skin and the fabric dry.

针对前述设计中所提到具有不同表面能(亲/疏水性)纱线的要求,在本发明中疏水纱可以是亲水性纱线经过疏水性功能整理得到,也可以直接选用具有疏水特性的纱线,例如丙纶。所述亲水纱可以是棉纱,具有吸湿快干特性的涤纶或尼龙纱,也可以是纤维素合成纱线。In view of the requirements of yarns with different surface energies (philicity/hydrophobicity) mentioned in the aforementioned design, in the present invention, the hydrophobic yarns can be obtained by finishing the hydrophilic yarns through hydrophobic functions, or directly select the yarns with hydrophobic properties. Yarns such as polypropylene. The hydrophilic yarn can be cotton yarn, polyester or nylon yarn with hygroscopic and quick-drying properties, or cellulose synthetic yarn.

层(2)为亲水性储水层:主要功能是将层(1)传递过来的液态水保持在此,并在此快速有效地进行蒸发以带走热量,在无汗状态下保持空气,在较轻织物单位重量的条件下仍能提供一定的保暖能力。亲水性导水/储水层由100%亲水纱构成,织物结构可以是平纹组织结构,也可以是3维空间结构。优选3维空间结构以利于相对平纹织物在不增加重量前提下增加织物厚度,蒸发有效面积及织物内部的通风效果,达到快干与快速散热之功效,因此在本发明中特别命名此逻辑功能层为亲水性导水快干层(可选)。对于穿着时间较长的织物设计,在层(2)所用的纱线中可以适当地交织一定比例的除异味和/或抗菌功能以达到在长时间穿着过程中所产生的异味;除异味和/或抗菌功能纱线与亲水线的比例可以是1:1至1:10,优选 1:5。Layer (2) is a hydrophilic water storage layer: the main function is to keep the liquid water transferred from layer (1) here, and evaporate it quickly and efficiently to take away heat, and keep the air in a sweat-free state. It can still provide a certain warmth retention capacity under the condition of lighter fabric unit weight. The hydrophilic water-conducting/water-storing layer is made of 100% hydrophilic yarn, and the fabric structure can be a plain weave structure or a 3-dimensional space structure. The 3-dimensional space structure is preferred to increase the thickness of the fabric without increasing the weight of the plain weave fabric, the effective evaporation area and the ventilation effect inside the fabric, so as to achieve the effect of quick drying and rapid heat dissipation. Therefore, this logic function layer is specially named in the present invention It is a hydrophilic water-conducting quick-drying layer (optional). For fabric designs with a longer wearing time, a certain proportion of deodorizing and/or antibacterial functions can be appropriately interwoven in the yarns used in layer (2) to achieve the peculiar smell generated during long-term wearing; deodorizing and/or antibacterial functions Or the ratio of antibacterial functional yarn to hydrophilic thread can be 1:1 to 1:10, preferably 1:5.

为了进一步提升织物快干的效果,层(2)纤维优选具有异型截面的合成纤维,利用毛细效应以达到液态水的快速扩散与蒸发。In order to further improve the quick-drying effect of the fabric, the fibers of the layer (2) are preferably synthetic fibers with special-shaped cross-sections, and the capillary effect is used to achieve rapid diffusion and evaporation of liquid water.

层(3)为视觉干扰层:它的主要功能是在保持织物良好透气性的同时,防止层 (2)中的液态水到达层(3)而改变层(3)的光学特性。同时也要让层(2)中的液态水因蒸发所产生的水汽能顺利地离开织物,也利用层(3)织物表面减弱视觉上的透视而看见层(2)中的水迹。Layer (3) is a visual disturbance layer: its main function is to prevent the liquid water in layer (2) from reaching layer (3) and changing the optical properties of layer (3) while maintaining good air permeability of the fabric. At the same time, the liquid water in the layer (2) can leave the fabric smoothly due to the water vapor produced by evaporation, and the water trace in the layer (2) can be seen by using the surface of the layer (3) fabric to weaken the visual perspective.

层(3)由100%疏水纱组成。视觉干扰层的外表面可以是平纹,也可以是三维空间结构以达到减弱镜面效应,进一步干扰视觉光线的反射。业内公知由疏水纱编织而成的面料具有疏水特性,并且其耐水压能力与织物组织结构的紧密度相关。视觉干扰层的外表面可以进一步通过印花,磨毛,抓毛等后加工手段以减弱光线在织物表面的镜面反射,达到减小或干扰汗迹印的目的。优选面料为非透视面料,也就是面料的透明度越低越好。Layer (3) consists of 100% hydrophobic yarn. The outer surface of the visual interference layer can be plain, or a three-dimensional space structure to reduce the mirror effect and further interfere with the reflection of visual light. It is well known in the industry that fabrics woven from hydrophobic yarns have hydrophobic properties, and their water pressure resistance is related to the tightness of the fabric structure. The outer surface of the visual interference layer can be further processed by post-processing methods such as printing, sanding, and fleece to reduce the specular reflection of light on the fabric surface, so as to reduce or interfere with sweat marks. The preferred fabric is a non-see-through fabric, that is, the lower the transparency of the fabric, the better.

根据上述创新设计的原理与技术要求,本专利的实现方法可以是将上述三个功能逻辑层独立按设计要求进行编织及整理,然后将此层织物通过贴合的方法实现;也可以选用相应的功能纱线通过编织的方法一次实现。According to the principle and technical requirements of the above-mentioned innovative design, the realization method of this patent can be to weave and organize the above-mentioned three functional logic layers independently according to the design requirements, and then realize this layer of fabric by laminating; it is also possible to choose the corresponding The functional yarn is realized at one time through the method of weaving.

发明实例一Invention Example 1

本实例采用疏水纱线和普通纱线/亲水纱线在双针床设备上编织,实现一面有网孔结构,一面平布结构,同时含有中间夹层的编织面料。最终效果为最外层为疏水面料,中间夹层为亲水纱线夹层,最里层为疏水纱线编织的网孔面料。最里层疏水网孔面料与中间层亲水形成单向导水效果。In this example, hydrophobic yarns and ordinary yarns/hydrophilic yarns are used to weave on double-needle bed equipment to achieve a woven fabric with a mesh structure on one side and a plain fabric structure on the other side, and a middle interlayer. The final effect is that the outermost layer is a hydrophobic fabric, the middle interlayer is a hydrophilic yarn interlayer, and the innermost layer is a mesh fabric woven with hydrophobic yarns. The innermost layer of hydrophobic mesh fabric and the middle layer of hydrophilic form a one-way water guide effect.

疏水纱线为:PET 75D/72f SD DTY,供应商:南亚加工丝有限公司Hydrophobic yarn: PET 75D/72f SD DTY, supplier: Nan Ya Processing Yarn Co., Ltd.

亲水纱线为:PET 50D/72f SD DTY单包PU 70D,供应商:盛虹涤纶丝+英威达氨纶,公司内部包纱Hydrophilic yarn: PET 50D/72f SD DTY single-pack PU 70D, supplier: Shenghong polyester yarn + INVISTA spandex, covered yarn within the company

GB1,GB2采用疏水纱线,编织反向变化经缎结构,显露在织物上呈网布效果(垫纱数码见附图3);GB3采用亲水性包芯纱,连接前后面料,形成夹层(垫纱数码见附图4);GB 4,GB 5采用疏水纱线,满穿方式编织反向经平结构,显露在织物上为平布效果。GB1 and GB2 use hydrophobic yarns, and weave reverse warp and satin structure, revealing a mesh effect on the fabric (see Figure 3 for the number of lap yarns); GB3 uses hydrophilic core-spun yarns to connect the front and rear fabrics to form a sandwich ( See Figure 4 for lapping numbers); GB 4 and GB 5 use hydrophobic yarns to weave the reverse warp-flat structure in a full-through manner, revealing the effect of plain cloth on the fabric.

1、经编所用纱线整经:1. Yarn warping used in warp knitting:

整经机机型:Karl Mayer DS 21/30NC-2,消极式送纱。Warping machine type: Karl Mayer DS 21/30NC-2, passive yarn feeding.

整经温度:25℃整经湿度:65%Warping temperature: 25℃ Warping humidity: 65%

车间在上述温湿度的条件下,设置工艺参数。The workshop sets process parameters under the above temperature and humidity conditions.

2、织造2. Weaving

织造机器型号:Karl·Mayer RD7/2-12EL。Weaving machine model: Karl Mayer RD7/2-12EL.

机号范围:E24Machine number range: E24

织物纱线及穿纱方式:Fabric yarn and threading method:

GB2GB3:疏水纱:PET 75D/72f SD DTY穿纱方式:5穿1空;GB2GB3: Hydrophobic yarn: PET 75D/72f SD DTY Threading method: 5 threads and 1 empty;

GB4:PET 50D/72f SD DTY单包PU 70D穿纱方式:满穿;GB4: PET 50D/72f SD DTY single bag PU 70D threading method: full threading;

GB5、GB6:疏水纱:PET 75D/72f SD DTY穿纱方式:满穿。GB5, GB6: Hydrophobic yarn: PET 75D/72f SD DTY Threading method: full threading.

垫纱图:见附图3,4,5Laying diagram: see attached drawings 3, 4, 5

幅宽:140厘米Width: 140 cm

克重:330克/平方米Gram weight: 330 grams/square meter

3,染整3. Dyeing and finishing

水洗→预定→溢流染→脱水→后整Washing→scheduling→overflow dyeing→dehydration→finishing

发明实例二Invention Example 2

为了快速实现本发明功能,后整理的方法也在本实例中得到成功应用。其具体实现步骤如图6如示,并描述如下:In order to realize the function of the present invention quickly, the method of rearranging is also successfully applied in this example. The specific implementation steps are shown in Figure 6 and described as follows:

图6典型无汗迹面料后整理实现工艺流程Fig. 6 Process flow of finishing of typical sweat-free fabrics

1.选择东莞超盈纺织有限公司1. Choose Dongguan Chaoying Textile Co., Ltd.

1.TNJ54159FX2(45%聚对苯二甲酸丁二酯RB,55%polyester SD;85g/sq.m) 为坯布1,其布面将在复合层压后为布面;1. TNJ54159FX2 (45% polybutylene terephthalate RB, 55% polyester SD; 85g/sq.m) is the gray fabric 1, and its fabric surface will be the fabric surface after composite lamination;

2.EJ8319FX2(82%尼龙SD,18%氨纶,单位重量85g/sq.m)为坯布2,其布底将在复合层压后为布底。2. EJ8319FX2 (82% nylon SD, 18% spandex, unit weight 85g/sq.m) is the gray fabric 2, and its fabric base will be the fabric base after composite lamination.

2.根据图6流程,坯布1与坯布2经检测都呈现较好的亲水性。根据AATCC 79测试标准将水滴在布表面,水滴在布面镜面反射消失时间都小于2秒,表现出较好的亲水性。因此,2. According to the flow chart in Figure 6, gray cloth 1 and gray cloth 2 both show good hydrophilicity after testing. According to the AATCC 79 test standard, when water is dropped on the surface of the cloth, the time for the specular reflection of the water drop to disappear on the cloth surface is less than 2 seconds, showing good hydrophilicity. therefore,

1.在本实例中对坯布1进行织物无氟防水整理。有关无氟防水整理工艺与技术已经有许多先有报道。本实例中选用了德国鲁道夫BIONIC FINISH无氟拒水整理剂RUCO-DRYECO。该助剂不含APEO聚合物,采用浸渍-烘干-焙烘的整理方式。1. In this example, fabric fluorine-free waterproof finishing is carried out on gray cloth 1. There have been many previous reports on the fluorine-free waterproof finishing process and technology. In this example, Rudolf BIONIC FINISH fluorine-free water-repellent finishing agent RUCO-DRYECO was selected. The additive does not contain APEO polymer, and adopts the finishing method of dipping-drying-baking.

2.在本实例中由于坯布2也表现出较好的亲水性,为了达到本发明设想:面料底面与人体皮肤相接触时在出汗过程中也尽量保持干爽的感觉,需要将汗水传递进面料的中间层(亲水储水层)。也就需要将面料底与面料中间层材料的表面能差异提高。由这表面能差结合毛细效应将水自动地由布底传输到布的中间或布面。因此对坯布2的布底进行拒水性单面印花-烘干-焙烘方式整理。仍选用了德国鲁道夫BIONIC FINISH无氟拒水整理剂RUCO-DRYECO。有关织物单向导湿整理工艺已有诸多报道,在此不作重复。处理后面料检测方法为AATCC-195标准。2. In this example, because the gray cloth 2 also shows better hydrophilicity, in order to achieve the idea of the present invention: when the bottom surface of the fabric is in contact with human skin, it should also keep a dry feeling as much as possible during the sweating process, and it is necessary to transfer the sweat into the body. The middle layer of the fabric (hydrophilic water storage layer). It is also necessary to increase the surface energy difference between the bottom of the fabric and the middle layer of the fabric. Water is automatically transported from the bottom of the cloth to the middle or surface of the cloth by the surface energy difference combined with the capillary effect. Therefore, the cloth bottom of the gray cloth 2 is finished by a water-repellent single-sided printing-drying-baking method. The German Rudolph BIONIC FINISH fluorine-free water-repellent finishing agent RUCO-DRYECO is still selected. There have been many reports on the unidirectional wet-guided finishing process of fabrics, and will not be repeated here. The test method of treated fabric is AATCC-195 standard.

3.将坯布1的布面为新的复合层压布的布面,坯布2的布底为复合层压布的布底进行粘合。层压粘合之工艺已经是业界成熟的技术,并在此被采用。3. The cloth surface of gray cloth 1 is the cloth surface of the new composite laminated cloth, and the cloth bottom of gray cloth 2 is the cloth bottom of the composite laminated cloth for bonding. The process of lamination bonding is already a mature technology in the industry and is adopted here.

4.由此过程所获得的面料在其厚度方向形成了三个不同特性的层次,由布底向布面:4. The fabric obtained by this process forms three layers with different characteristics in its thickness direction, from the bottom of the fabric to the surface of the fabric:

1.疏水导水层:此层由于经过了单向导湿的整理,汗液到达时将会向坯布2的布面也就是新复合布的中间传递;1. Hydrophobic and water-conducting layer: this layer has undergone one-way moisture-conducting finishing, and when sweat arrives, it will be transferred to the cloth surface of gray cloth 2, which is the middle of the new composite cloth;

2.亲水储水层:坯布2的布面在此成为亲水储水层。液态水到达此处时,由于其亲水特性在此被进一步扩散和蒸发;2. Hydrophilic water storage layer: the cloth surface of the gray cloth 2 becomes a hydrophilic water storage layer here. When liquid water reaches here, it is further diffused and evaporated due to its hydrophilic properties;

3.视觉干扰层:坯布1由于经过了拒水整理,因此阻止了液态水继续向坯布1外表面方向的传递,并且坯布1也不容易被润湿。因此从布面方向看织物的水印现象被显著地减弱。3. Visual interference layer: the gray cloth 1 has undergone water-repellent finishing, which prevents liquid water from continuing to pass to the outer surface of the gray cloth 1, and the gray cloth 1 is not easily wetted. Therefore, the watermark phenomenon of the fabric viewed from the direction of the cloth surface is significantly weakened.

4.为了进一步降低织物外观的水印,实例一所得到的复合面料在外表面可以进一步进行起绒整理通过增加表面的绒毛以达到进一步降低布面的透明度与减小亲水储水层中水印的痕迹。4. In order to further reduce the watermark on the appearance of the fabric, the outer surface of the composite fabric obtained in Example 1 can be further raised and finished by increasing the fluff on the surface to further reduce the transparency of the cloth surface and reduce the traces of the watermark in the hydrophilic water storage layer .

5.为了进一步降低织物外观的水印,实例一所得到的复合面料在外表面可以进一步进行印花处理通过图案与色彩达到视觉的干扰;5. In order to further reduce the watermark on the appearance of the fabric, the composite fabric obtained in Example 1 can be further printed on the outer surface to achieve visual interference through patterns and colors;

6.为了进一步降低织物外观的水印,实例一所述的织物在层压粘合时在坯布1与坯布2之间进一步复合防水透气膜,达到较好地阻止液态水向外表的传递及减小水印的视觉效果。6. In order to further reduce the watermark on the appearance of the fabric, the fabric described in Example 1 is further compounded with a waterproof and breathable membrane between the gray cloth 1 and the gray cloth 2 during lamination and bonding, so as to better prevent the transfer of liquid water to the outside and reduce the water mark. The visual effect of the watermark.

发明实例三Invention example three

在发明实例二的基础上,继续选用实例二中的坯布1;坯布2选择实验室自制的全棉梭织单向导湿面料。详细制作工艺请参阅本发明人授权专利“具有水分管理性能的机织织物”(CN200580001677.6)。On the basis of the invention example 2, the gray cloth 1 in the example 2 was continued to be selected; the gray cloth 2 was selected from a laboratory-made cotton woven unidirectional moisture-wicking fabric. For the detailed manufacturing process, please refer to the inventor's authorized patent "Woven Fabric with Moisture Management Performance" (CN200580001677.6).

因此在坯布2上我们直接得到了疏水导水层与亲水储水层;Therefore, we directly obtained the hydrophobic water-conducting layer and the hydrophilic water storage layer on the gray cloth 2;

坯布1跟随实例二中的2(a)步骤进行处理;Gray cloth 1 follows the 2 (a) step in the example two to process;

并重复实例二的步骤3与4得到最终产品。And repeat steps 3 and 4 of example two to obtain the final product.

发明实例四Invention example four

在发明实例二的基础上,继续选用实例二中的坯布1;坯布2选择实验室自制的全棉单向导湿无纺布。详细制作工艺请参阅本发明人授权专利“无纺布及其制造方法”(CN201010251772.4)。On the basis of the invention example two, continue to select the gray cloth 1 in the example two; the gray cloth 2 selects the all-cotton unidirectional moisture-conducting non-woven fabric made by the laboratory. For the detailed production process, please refer to the inventor's authorized patent "non-woven fabric and its manufacturing method" (CN201010251772.4).

因此在坯布2上我们直接得到了疏水导水层与亲水储水层;Therefore, we directly obtained the hydrophobic water-conducting layer and the hydrophilic water storage layer on the gray cloth 2;

坯布1跟随实例二中的2(a)步骤进行处理;Gray cloth 1 follows the 2 (a) step in the example two to process;

并重复实例二的步骤3与4得到最终产品。And repeat steps 3 and 4 of example two to obtain the final product.

Claims (11)

1.一种具有特定正反两面不同功能的织物,从而实现了织物在穿着过程中不但能将汗液从布底面排离以保持皮肤与布底接触微环境的干爽与穿着热湿舒适性,同时也降低汗水在布面形成明显的水迹或汗迹的可能从而保持了穿着者优雅的外观与视觉的舒适。1. A fabric with specific front and back sides with different functions, so that the fabric can not only discharge sweat from the bottom surface of the cloth during wearing, so as to keep the skin and the bottom of the cloth in contact with the micro-environment dry and wear hot and humid comfort, but at the same time It also reduces the possibility of sweat forming obvious water marks or sweat marks on the cloth surface, thereby maintaining the elegant appearance and visual comfort of the wearer. 2.根据权利要求1,该织物按功能逻辑上至少具有三层结构,由布底向布面,(1)拒水性导水层;(2)亲水性储水层及(3)视觉干扰层。其中层(2)又可以进一步分解为亲水性导水储水层与(2.2)亲水性导水快干层(可选)。2. According to claim 1, the fabric has at least a three-layer structure logically according to its function, from the bottom of the cloth to the cloth surface, (1) a water-repellent water-conducting layer; (2) a hydrophilic water storage layer and (3) a visual interference layer . The layer (2) can be further decomposed into a hydrophilic water-conducting water storage layer and (2.2) a hydrophilic water-conducting quick-drying layer (optional). 3.根据权利要求1与2,层(1)的主要功能是当面料接触汗水时能将液体快速地吸离织物的表面,从而使皮肤与面料的接触保持干爽。其实现方法可以是选用亲水性纱和/或疏水性纱交织/后整理方式构成拒水导水层,并且疏水性纱在布底的覆盖面积大于50%,优选约65-85%,从而保留了一定的亲水纱形成导水通道。3. According to claims 1 and 2, the main function of the layer (1) is to quickly draw liquid away from the surface of the fabric when the fabric comes into contact with sweat, thereby keeping the skin in contact with the fabric dry. Its realization method can be to select hydrophilic yarn and/or hydrophobic yarn to interweave/after-finish to form the water-repellent and water-conducting layer, and the coverage area of the hydrophobic yarn on the bottom of the cloth is greater than 50%, preferably about 65-85%, so that A certain amount of hydrophilic yarn is retained to form a water-conducting channel. 4.根据权利要求3,拒水性导水层也可以选100%疏水纱构成大网眼结构,镂空面积在10%-85%之间,优选30%。水可以通过网眼的空隙直接与亲水性导水/储水层相接触而被吸收。同时疏水低回潮率纱线又能使皮肤与面料的接触保持干爽。4. According to claim 3, the water-repellent and water-conducting layer can also choose 100% hydrophobic yarn to form a large mesh structure, and the hollow area is between 10% and 85%, preferably 30%. Water can be absorbed through direct contact with the hydrophilic water-conducting/water-storing layer through the pores of the mesh. At the same time, the hydrophobic low moisture regain yarn can keep the contact between the skin and the fabric dry. 5.根据权利要求3与4,疏水纱可以是亲水性纱线经过疏水性功能整理得到,也可以直接选用疏水纱线,优选是丙纶。5. According to claims 3 and 4, the hydrophobic yarn can be obtained by finishing the hydrophobic function of the hydrophilic yarn, or directly choose the hydrophobic yarn, preferably polypropylene fiber. 6.根据权利要求1与2,亲水性导水/储水层由100%亲水纱构成,织物结构可以是平纹组织是结构,也可以是3维空间结构。优选3维空间结构以利于相对平纹织物在不增加重量前提下增加织物厚度,蒸发有效面积及织物内部的通风效果,达到快干与快速散热之功效。优选具有异型纤维截面的合成纤维,利用毛细效应以达到液态水的快速扩散与蒸发。6. According to claims 1 and 2, the hydrophilic water-conducting/water-storage layer is made of 100% hydrophilic yarn, and the fabric structure can be a plain weave structure or a 3-dimensional space structure. The 3-dimensional space structure is preferred to increase the thickness of the fabric without increasing the weight of the plain weave fabric, the effective evaporation area and the ventilation effect inside the fabric, so as to achieve the effect of quick drying and rapid heat dissipation. Synthetic fibers with profiled fiber cross-sections are preferred, utilizing capillary effects to achieve rapid diffusion and evaporation of liquid water. 7.根据权利要求6,亲水性导水/储水层纱线可以复合选择除异味和/或抗菌功能以达到在长时穿着过程中减弱所产生的异味。7. According to claim 6, the hydrophilic water-conducting/water-storing layer yarn can be compounded to select odor-removing and/or antibacterial functions to reduce the odor generated during long-term wearing. 8.根据权利要求1与2,视觉干扰层由100%疏水纱组成,其功能是:(1)阻止未蒸发的液态汗水由内向外润湿该层面料形成汗迹,(2)也在一定条件下阻挡外部的雨水润湿并侵入织物内部;(3)通过对外表面的修饰达到进一步干扰汗迹的可视性。8. According to claims 1 and 2, the visual interference layer is composed of 100% hydrophobic yarn, and its function is: (1) prevent the unevaporated liquid sweat from wetting the layer of fabric from the inside to the outside to form sweat marks, (2) also Under certain conditions, the external rainwater can be prevented from wetting and invading the interior of the fabric; (3) the visibility of sweat marks can be further disturbed by modifying the outer surface. 9.根据权利要求8,视觉干扰层的外表面织物组织结构可以是平纹,优选是三维空间结构以达到进一步干扰光线的反射,面料其透明度越低越好。9. According to claim 8, the fabric structure on the outer surface of the visual interference layer can be plain weave, preferably a three-dimensional space structure to further disturb the reflection of light, and the lower the transparency of the fabric, the better. 10.根据权利要求8,视觉干扰层的外表面可以进一步通过印花,磨毛,抓毛等后加工手段达到建立三维空间结构,减小织物表面的镜面反射能力达到减小或干扰汗迹的反射。10. According to claim 8, the outer surface of the visual interference layer can further achieve the establishment of a three-dimensional space structure through post-processing means such as printing, sanding, and scratching, and reduce the specular reflection ability of the fabric surface to reduce or interfere with the reflection of sweat marks . 11.根据权利要求1与2,本织物可以选用符合条件的多层织物通过贴合的方法实现,也可以选用功能纱线通过编织的方法一次或分步实现。本发明的设计原理适用于针织,梭织及无纺布结构。11. According to claims 1 and 2, the fabric can be realized by laminating qualified multi-layer fabrics, or by weaving functional yarns once or step by step. The design principle of the present invention is applicable to knitted, woven and non-woven structures.
CN201810469856.1A 2018-05-16 2018-05-16 A fabric that maintains wearing comfort and elegant appearance during exercise Pending CN110495660A (en)

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