CN111050737A - 用于暂时改变角蛋白材料颜色的防水型化妆剂i - Google Patents
用于暂时改变角蛋白材料颜色的防水型化妆剂i Download PDFInfo
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- CN111050737A CN111050737A CN201880057017.7A CN201880057017A CN111050737A CN 111050737 A CN111050737 A CN 111050737A CN 201880057017 A CN201880057017 A CN 201880057017A CN 111050737 A CN111050737 A CN 111050737A
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Abstract
本发明涉及用于暂时改变角蛋白表面特别是人类头发和人类皮肤的颜色的化妆组合物,其含有具有2‑8个碳原子的醇、特定阴离子聚合物和至少一种颜料。这些化妆剂具有非常好的防水性,但是可以通过单次施用含表面活性剂的清洗剂除去而不留下残留物。此外,本发明涉及使用这些试剂暂时染色角蛋白纤维和皮肤的方法。最后,本发明涉及特定阴离子聚合物在含颜料的化妆品组合物中用于改进这些试剂的防水性的用途。
Description
本申请涉及角蛋白材料特别是人类皮肤和/或头发的防水型暂时颜色改变的技术领域。本申请涉及包含至少一种脂族和/或芳族醇、至少一种基于丙烯酸和丙烯酸酯的阴离子聚合物和至少一种颜料的化妆剂。最后,本申请的主题是使用这些试剂对角蛋白纤维和皮肤暂时染色的方法工艺,以及特殊阴离子聚合物在染色化妆剂中改进这些试剂的防水性的用途。
角蛋白表面尤其是人类皮肤和/或头发的颜色改变是现代化妆品的重要领域。为了改变头发颜色,专家们知晓根据染色需要的各种染色体系。为了良好坚牢度性能和良好灰白发覆盖度的永久强烈染色,使用氧化着色剂。这种着色剂通常含有氧化染料前体,所谓的显色组分和偶合剂组分,其在氧化剂比如过氧化氢的影响下,在它们之间形成实际的染料。氧化染料的特征在于非常持久的染色结果。
通过使用直接染料,已经形成的染料从着色剂扩散到头发纤维中。与氧化性染发相比,用直接染料获得的染色具有更低的耐久性和更快的渗出性。用直接染色剂进行的染色通常保持在头发上5到20次洗涤的时间段。
现有技术中已知各种方法用于改变肤色,特别是用于让皮肤变成古铜色或用于减少不希望的老年斑。皮肤的晒黑可以例如使用穿透皮肤层并引起延长的晒黑的染料进行。为了减少老年斑,使用穿透皮肤并分解与年龄相关的黑色素累积的试剂。此外,也可以实现皮肤颜色的持久改变,其不能通过清洁皮肤去除或者难以通过清洁皮肤去除。
然而,在现代时尚趋势的背景下,还需要这样的染色效果,该染色效果仅在短时间内保留在头发和/或皮肤上,然后可以在使用含表面活性剂的清洁剂的单次清洗中从头发和/或皮肤完全除去而不留下残留物。然而,当与水或汗液接触时,应当保持染色效果以防止颜色由于环境影响(例如雨水或汗液)而流失。直接染料或多或少强烈地扩散到头发纤维或皮肤表面中,并能经历数次用含表面活性剂的清洁剂清洗。因此,这类染料不能很好地适用于在用含表面活性剂的清洁剂单次清洗之后去除而不留下残留物的染色效果。
对于头发和/或皮肤的短期颜色改变,使用有色颜料是众所周知的。有色颜料通常认为是不可溶的染色物质。它们在染色制剂中以未溶解的小颗粒的形式存在,并且仅从外部沉积在头发纤维和/或皮肤表面上。因此,可以通过用含表面活性剂的清洁剂单次清洗除去而不留下残留物。这种类型的各种产品在市场上可以以名称“一次性染发剂(HairMascara)”购得。
由于可以通过洗发来去除一次性染发剂,因此它们通常被设计为“免洗型”产品。对于“免洗型”产品的使用者来说,如果他们在暂时改变颜色的同时稍微暂时改变发型,则是有利的。暂时造型可以是比如卷曲的、拉直的、逆梳的或定型等设计。暂时造型可例如通过定型剂,比如发胶、发蜡、啫喱膏、头发定型剂、卷曲吹干剂、定型喷雾等来实现。暂时造型也称为头发定型或定型,造型剂也称为定型剂。
允许角蛋白表面的颜色和/或形状暂时改变的产品在现有技术中是已知的。这种产品通常含有成膜聚合物和颜料的混合物。然而,该产品不具有足够的防水性。
本发明的目标是提供一种允许暂时改变头发和/或皮肤的颜色的通用的可用一次性染色产品(mascara product)。该产品应该能够通过海绵、刷子或喷雾应用来施用。以这种方式改变颜色应该是容易的并且是低损伤的,并且能够通过用含有表面活性剂的清洁剂单次清洗从头发和/或皮肤上除去而不留下残留物。然而,直到下一次清洗,角蛋白表面上的产品应当对外部影响具有高度抗性,即暴露于水或汗液、纺织品或梳子的磨损不应当导致产品的颜色损失或其他去除。同时,以这种方式染色的角蛋白表面应该具有良好的化妆性能。
令人惊讶的是,已经发现当在特定醇载体中使用时,可以通过使用有色颜料和某些阴离子聚合物来实现该目的。这种聚合物的使用导致化妆品的高防水性,但不会不利地影响这些试剂的化妆品性能。此外,可以通过用含表面活性剂的清洁剂单次清洗除去染色而不留下残留物,因此与用氧化染料和直接染料染色或用氧化剂漂白相反,仅导致角蛋白表面,特别是皮肤和/或头发的暂时染色。
因此,本发明的第一个主题是包含以下物质的化妆剂:
a)至少一种具有2至8个碳原子的脂族和/或芳族醇,
b)至少一种阴离子聚合物,其包含至少一种式(I)的结构单元和至少一种式(II)的结构单元以及至少一种式(III)的结构单元,
其中
R1、R2和R4彼此独立地表示氢原子或C1-C4烷基,
R3表示支化或非支化的、饱和或不饱和的C1-C12烷基,
R5表示支化或非支化的、饱和或不饱和的C6-C14烷基,和
A是氧、硫或NH基团,以及
c)至少一种颜料。
根据上式和所有下式,用符号“*”标记的化学键表示相应结构片段的自由价。在此,自由价应被认为是指源自符号“*”所示位置处的相应结构片段的原子键的数目。在本发明的上下文中,在每种情况下,原子键主要从用符号“*”标记的结构片段的位置开始形成另外的结构片段。
在本发明的上下文中,术语“阴离子聚合物”应被认为是指在标准条件下在质子溶剂中携带至少一个具有永久阴离子基团的结构单元的那些聚合物,该阴离子基团必须被抗衡离子补偿,同时保持电中性。根据本发明,阴离子基团特别是羧基。
除非另有说明,在当前情况下,表述wt.-%是指本发明的化妆品组合物的总重量,其中本发明的组合物的所有成分的总和为100wt.-%。
如果本发明的化妆品组合物包含至少一种推进剂,则表述wt.-%是指包含存在的推进剂的化妆品的总重量。
作为第一必须组分a),本发明的化妆剂含有至少一种具有2-8个碳原子的脂族和/或芳族醇。具有2-8个C原子的脂族和/或芳族醇是具有2-8个C原子的化合物,该化合物本质上是脂族和/或芳族的并且携带一个或多个羟基。
根据本发明,醇a)不携带除氧外的任何杂原子。它们可以包括醚集合,但是没有除了羟基以外的官能团(即单乙醇酰胺、α-羟基羧酸、二羟基丙酮等不是本发明意义上的醇)。
合适的脂族醇是例如乙醇、异丙醇、正丙醇、丁醇、正戊醇、1,2-丙二醇、1,3-丙二醇、1,3-丁二醇、1,4-丁二醇、1,2-己二醇、1,6-己二醇和甘油。合适的芳族醇是例如苯甲醇、苯氧基乙醇和苯乙醇。
因此,本发明主题的优选模型的特征在于具有2至8个碳原子的至少一种脂族和/或芳族醇选自乙醇、异丙醇、正丙醇、丁醇、正戊醇、1,2-丙二醇、1,3-丙二醇、1,3-丁二醇、1,4-丁二醇、1,2-己二醇、1,6-己二醇、甘油、苯甲醇、苯氧基乙醇、苯乙醇及其混合物。
对于至少一种醇a),其涉及有助于阴离子聚合物b)溶解的有机溶剂,并且在将试剂施用到角蛋白表面之后,影响聚合物b)的成膜速率。已经发现,如果在试剂中包括总量为至少10wt%的至少一种醇,则实现了特别好和均匀的成膜。用至少40wt.-%的醇量观察到最好的结果。所有以重量%计的定量数据均基于根据本发明的所有醇a)的总量,其相对于试剂的总重量。
因此,在本发明中有利的是,在每种情况下基于化妆品的总重量,含有总量为40-98wt%,优选50-95wt%,优选60-90wt%,特别是70-90wt%的至少一种具有2-8个碳原子的脂族和/或芳族醇。
至少一种醇a)是具有不同沸点并且是高度挥发性化合物。已经发现使用乙醇导致特别好的成膜,并因此导致颜料在角蛋白表面上特别高的粘附性。在这种情况下,颜色结果是特别均匀的,并且实现了对外部环境影响,比如雨水、汗液和磨损的高抗性。因此,本发明特别有利的集合的特征在于,化妆剂含有基于其总重量的总量为40-98wt.-%,优选50-95wt.-%,优选60-90wt.-%,特别是70-90wt.-%的乙醇。
通过向乙醇中加入另一种挥发性较低的多元醇,例如1,2-丙二醇或甘油甚至可以进一步改进上述性能。因此,在另一个非常特别优选的模型中,本发明的试剂的特征在于,基于其总重量,其另外包含总量为0.1至7.0重量.-%,优选0.5至5.5wt.-%,优选1.0至3.5wt.-%,特别是1.5wt.-%至2.5wt.-%的1,2-丙二醇和/或甘油。
作为第二必须成分b),根据本发明的化妆剂含有至少一种阴离子聚合物,该阴离子聚合物含有至少一种式(I)至(III)的结构单元。在式(I)至(III)的结构单元中,基团R1、R2和R4可以表示C1-C4烷基。这种基团的示例是甲基、乙基、丙基、异丙基、羟丙基、丁基、仲丁基、异丁基、叔丁基和羟基丁基。此外,式(II)和(III)的结构单元中的基团R3和R5可以表示C1-C12-或C6-C14-烷基。这样的基团包括例如戊基、己基、庚基、辛基、癸基(caprin-)、月桂基和肉豆蔻基。
在本发明的上下文中,优选式(I)至(III)中的基团R1、R2和R4表示某些基团。因此本发明主题的优选集合的特征在于,在式(I)和(III)的结构单元中,基团R1和R4在每种情况下彼此独立地表示氢原子,并且在式(II)的结构单元中,基团R2代表甲基。因此,优选使用基于丙烯酸、甲基丙烯酸酯和丙烯酰胺或丙烯酸酯的阴离子聚合物。这种阴离子聚合物的使用导致根据本发明的化妆品组合物的特别高的防水性。
此外,已经证明,在本发明的上下文中,如果式(II)的结构单元中的基团R3表示某些基团,则是有利的。因此,优选在式(II)的结构单元中,基团R3表示支化C3-C6-烷基,特别是*-CH2-C(CH3)2-基团。在这方面,*符号表示基团R3与式(II)的结构单元的氢原子的连接。因此,基团R3通过CH2基团键合到式(II)的结构单元的羰基上。阴离子聚合物,特别是含有支化甲基丙烯酸酯的阴离子聚合物的使用已经证明一方面对防水性和另一方面对通过含有表面活性剂的清洁剂的颜料的可浸出性是特别有利的。
此外,根据本发明,优选式(III)的结构单元中的A表示NH基团。因此,优选的阴离子聚合物含有至少一种基于丙烯酰胺的结构单元。基于丙烯酰胺的阴离子聚合物的使用导致改进的对外部环境影响的抗性,然而,不对使用含表面活性剂的清洁剂的可浸出性产生不良影响。
此外,已经证明,在本发明的上下文中,如果式(III)的结构单元中的基团R5表示某些基团,则是有利的。因此,在本发明的上下文中,如果在式(III)的结构单元中,基团R5表示支化C6-C10-烷基,特别是*-C(CH3)2-CH2-C(CH3)3-基团,则是优选的。这里,*符号表示基团R5与式(III)的结构单元的单元A的连接。已经证明,使用阴离子聚合物,特别是含有支化丙烯酰胺和丙烯酸酯的阴离子聚合物,一方面对防水性另一方面对用含表面活性剂的清洁剂的颜料的可浸出性特别有利。
根据本发明,因此特别有利地使用含有至少一种式(I)的结构单元,至少一种式(II)的结构单元和至少一种式(III)的结构单元的阴离子聚合物
其中
R1和R4各自表示氢原子,
R2表示甲基,
R3表示*-CH2-C(CH3)2-基团,
R5表示*-C(CH3)2-CH2-C(CH3)3-基团,以及
A表示NH基团。
这种基于丙烯酸、甲基丙烯酸2-甲基丙基酯和辛基丙烯酰胺的阴离子聚合物的使用已经证明一方面对外部环境影响的抗性另一方面对通过含表面活性剂的清洁剂的本发明的化妆剂的可浸出性是特别有利的。因此,在含颜料的化妆品中使用这样的聚合物产生防水型的暂时颜色,其可以通过单次使用含表面活性剂的清洁剂除去。此外,使用这些聚合物可以实现高度柔韧的发型,其在暴露于湿气时不粘在一起,从而产生不自然的印象。
优选使用的阴离子聚合物具有一定的平均分子量Mw。这些分子量的测定可以例如通过将凝胶渗透色谱法(GPC)与傅立叶变换质谱仪(FTMS)偶联来进行,如在Aaserud D.J等人,“Gel Permeation Chromatography Coupled to Fourier Transform MassSpectrometry for Polymer Characterization”;anal.Chem.1999,71,4793-4799中所述。因此,本发明主题的优选模型的特征在于阴离子聚合物具有50,000-250,000g/mol,优选80,000-220,000g/mol,优选100,000-200,000g/mol,特别是110,000-180,000g/mol的平均分子量Mw。
本发明优选的化妆剂包含基于化妆品的总重量的总量为0.1-10重量-%,优选0.5-8.0wt.-%,优选1.0-5.5wt.-%,特别是1.0-2.5wt.-%的至少一种阴离子聚合物a)。使用这些量的阴离子聚合物导致对外部环境影响的高抗性,而不对这些试剂的施用性和储存稳定性产生不良影响。当在用于同时暂时改变头发颜色和发型的试剂中使用这些量的聚合物时,除了防水型染色之外,还可以做出高度柔韧的发型。
作为第三必须组分c),本发明的化妆剂包含至少一种颜料。为了本发明的目的,颜料应被认为是指在20℃下在水中的溶解度小于0.1g/l的染色化合物。水溶性可以例如通过下述方法实现:称量0.1g颜料到烧杯中。加入搅拌棒。然后用蒸馏水(20℃)补足至1升。搅拌1小时。如果在这段时间之后,在混合物中仍然可见颜料的未溶解组分,则颜料的溶解度低于0.1g/l。
本发明的化妆剂应优选产生“金属”效果形式的暂时颜色。白色颜料不落入有色颜料的定义。白色颜料是具有高折射率(通常大于1.8)的消色差无机颜料,其通常被合成并且尤其是在油漆中或作为填料(例如在塑料中)产生光学白度。因此,白色颜料,比如二氧化钛或二氧化锌明确地排除在有色颜料的定义之外。
在试剂中,有色颜料以未溶解小颗粒的形式存在,该颗粒不扩散到角蛋白表面中,但积聚在由组分b)在角蛋白表面外侧形成的聚合物膜中。
合适的有色颜料可以是有机和/或无机来源的。优选的有色颜料选自合成或天然无机颜料。天然来源的无机有色颜料可例如由如下物质制备:白垩、赭石、棕土、绿土、烧陶土(baked terra di Siena)或石墨。此外,可以使用无机有色颜料黑色颜料,比如黑色氧化铁、彩色颜料比如群青或氧化铁红以及荧光或磷光颜料。
因此,本发明的第一主题的优选模型的特征在于化妆剂含有至少一种无机有色颜料作为有色颜料(b),该无机有色颜料选自(i)彩色金属氧化物、(ii)金属氢氧化物、(iii)金属氧化物水合物、(iv)硅酸盐、(v)金属硫化物、(vi)复合金属氰化物、(vii)金属硫酸盐、(viii)青铜颜料,和/或(ix)用至少一种金属氧化物和/或金属氯氧化物涂覆的云母或云母基彩色颜料,及x)其混合物。
特别合适的是彩色金属氧化物、氢氧化物和氧化物水合物、混合相颜料、含硫硅酸盐、硅酸盐、金属硫化物、复合金属氰化物、金属硫酸盐、铬酸盐和/或钼酸盐。特别地,黑色氧化铁(C.I.77499)、黄色氧化铁(C.I.77492)、红色和棕色氧化铁(C.I.77491)、锰紫(C.I.77742)、群青(硫化硅酸铝钠、C.I.77007,颜料蓝29)、氧化铬水合物(C.I.77289)、铁蓝(亚铁氰化铁、C.I.77510)和胭脂红(胭脂虫红)都是合适的颜料。
根据本发明特别优选的有色颜料是彩色珠光颜料。这些通常是基于云母和/或云母,并且可以涂覆有一种或多种金属氧化物。云母属于层状硅酸盐。这些硅酸盐中最重要的表示是白云母、金云母、钠云母、黑云母、锂云母和珍珠云母。为了生产与金属氧化物结合的珠光颜料,云母(主要是白云母或金云母)涂覆有金属氧化物。
作为天然云母的替代物,涂覆有一种或多种金属氧化物的合成云母也可用作珠光颜料。特别优选的珠光颜料基于天然或合成云母(云母)并且涂覆有一种或多种上述金属氧化物。各个颜料的颜色可以通过改变一种或多种金属氧化物的层厚度来改变。
因此,根据本发明特别优选的是,至少一种颜料是云母基或云母基彩色颜料,其涂覆有一种或多种选自以下组的金属氧化物:二氧化钛(CI 77891)、黑色氧化铁(CI 77499)、黄色氧化铁(CI 77492)、红色和/或棕色氧化铁(CI 77491、CI 77499)、锰紫(CI 77742)、群青(硫化硅酸铝钠、CI 77007、颜料蓝29)、氧化铬水合物(CI 77289)、氧化铬(CI 77288)和/或铁蓝(亚铁氰化铁、CI 77510)。
Colorona Copper、Merck、MICA、CI 77491(铁氧化物)
Colorona Passion Orange、Merck、Mica、CI 77491(铁氧化物)、氧化铝
Colorona Patina Silver、Merck、MICA、CI 77499(铁氧化物)、CI 77891(二氧化钛)
Colorona RY、Merck、CI 77891(二氧化钛)、MICA、CI 75470(胭脂红)
Colorona Oriental Beige、Merck、MICA、CI 77891(二氧化钛)、CI 77491(铁氧化物)
Colorona Dark Blue、Merck、Mica、二氧化钛、亚铁氰化铁
Colorona Chameleon、Merck、CI 77491(铁氧化物)、MICA
Colorona Aborigine Amber、Merck、MICA、CI 77499(铁氧化物)、CI 77891(二氧化钛)
Colorona BlackStar Blue、Merck、CI 77499(铁氧化物)、MICA
Colorona Patagonian Purple、Merck、MICA、CI 77491(铁氧化物)、CI 77891(二氧化钛)、CI 77510(亚铁氰化铁)
Colorona Red Brown、Merck、MICA、CI 77491(铁氧化物)、CI 77891(二氧化钛)
Colorona Russet、Merck、CI 77491(二氧化钛)、MICA、CI 77891(铁氧化物)
Colorona Imperial Red、Merck、MICA、二氧化钛(CI 77891)、D&C Red NO.30(CI73360)
Colorona Majestic Green、Merck、CI 77891(二氧化钛)、MICA、CI 77288(氧化铬绿)
Colorona Light Blue、Merck、MICA、二氧化钛(CI 77891)、亚铁氰化铁(CI77510)
Colorona Red Gold、Merck、MICA、CI 77891(二氧化钛)、CI 77491(铁氧化物)
Colorona Gold Plus MP25、Merck、MICA、二氧化钛(CI 77891)、铁氧化物(CI77491)
Colorona Carmine Red、Merck、Mica、二氧化钛、胭脂红
Colorona BlackStar Green、Merck、MICA、CI 77499(铁氧化物)
Colorona Bordeaux、Merck、MICA、CI 77491(铁氧化物)
Colorona Bronze、Merck、MICA、CI 77491(铁氧化物)
Colorona Bronze Fine、Merck、MICA、CI 77491(铁氧化物)
Colorona Fine Gold MP20、Merck、MICA、CI 77891(二氧化钛)、CI 77491(铁氧化物)
Colorona Sienna Fine、Merck、CI 77491(铁氧化物)、MICA
Colorona Sienna、Merck、MICA、CI 77491(铁氧化物)
Colorona Precious Gold、Merck、Mica、CI 77891(二氧化钛)、二氧化硅、CI77491(铁氧化物)、氧化锡
Colorona Sun Gold Sparkle MP29、Merck、MICA、二氧化钛、铁氧化物、MICA、CI77891、CI 77491(EU)
Colorona Mica Black、Merck、CI 77499(铁氧化物)、Mica、CI 77891(二氧化钛)
Colorona Bright Gold、Merck、MICA、CI 77891(二氧化钛)、CI 77491(铁氧化物)
Colorona BlackStar Gold、Merck、MICA、CI 77499(铁氧化物)
Xirona Golden Sky、Merck、二氧化硅、CI 77891(二氧化钛)、氧化锡
Xirona Caribbean Blue、Merck、Mica、CI 77891(二氧化钛)、二氧化硅、氧化锡
Xirona Kiwi Rose、Merck、二氧化硅、CI 77891(二氧化钛)、氧化锡
Xirona Magic Mauve、Merck、二氧化硅、CI 77891(二氧化钛)、氧化锡。
Unipure Red LC 381EM、Sensient CI 77491(铁氧化物)、二氧化硅
Unipure Black LC 989EM、Sensient、CI 77499(铁氧化物)、二氧化硅
Unipure Yellow LC 182EM、Sensient、CI 77492(铁氧化物)、二氧化硅
对于一些施用,其表面被赋予疏水性的上述有色颜料是特别合适的。已经发现这些颜料有时是有利的,特别是对于在极端条件下储存。
合适的疏水剂是例如硅氧烷。
疏水表面处理的有色颜料描述于例如DE 102009051171中,其内容通过引用明确并入本文。
由于它们优异的耐光性、耐候性和/或耐温性,特别优选在本发明的试剂中使用上述无机有色颜料。
此外,优选使用的颜料具有一定的粒度。一方面,该粒度导致颜料在所形成的聚合物膜中均匀分布,另一方面避免了在施用化妆品之后的头发或皮肤的粗糙感。因此,根据本发明有利的是,所述至少一种颜料具有1.0-50μm,优选5.0-45μm,优选10-40μm,特别是14-30μm的平均粒度D50。平均粒度D50可以例如使用动态光散射(DLS)测定。
根据角蛋白表面期望的颜色改变,可以以不同的量使用至少一种有色颜料c)。使用的有色颜料越多,通常颜色改变的量越高。然而,在特定用量以上,颜料对角蛋白纤维的粘附性遇到了极限,超过该极限,则不再可能通过进一步增加所用颜料的量来增加颜色改变的程度。
在本文中,已经发现当在角蛋白表面上使用本发明的聚合物b)(特别是所述优选的和特别优选的代表物)时,可以形成膜,该膜允许颜料以特别大的量粘附在表面上。因此,根据本发明,本发明的第一主题的特别优选的模型的特征在于,在每种情况下基于化妆品的总重量含有总量为1.0-25.0wt%,优选5.0-20.0wt.-%,优选7.0-18.0wt.-%,特别是8.5-15.5wt.-%的至少一种颜料。
关于含颜料的聚合物膜的防水性,已经证明如果在化妆剂中含有特定重量比的聚合物b)与颜料c)是有利的。因此,根据本发明,优选化妆剂的至少一种阴离子聚合物b)与至少一种颜料c)的重量比为1.0-6.0,优选2.0-5.5,优选2.5-5.0,特别是3.0-4.5。以上给出的重量比在此是指聚合物b)和颜料c)的总量。因此,如果使用不同聚合物b)和/或颜料c)的混合物,则聚合物b)和/或颜料c)的混合物的总量用于计算重量比。
因此,在本发明的第一主题的上下文中特别优选的模型是用于暂时重新造型角蛋白纤维的化妆品组合物,其含有
a)至少一种具有2至8个碳原子的脂族醇,选自乙醇,
b)至少一种阴离子聚合物,其包含至少一种式(I)的结构单元和至少一种式(II)的结构单元以及至少一种式(III)的结构单元,
其中
R1和R4各自表示氢原子,
R2表示甲基,
R3表示*-CH2-C(CH3)2-基团,
R5表示*-C(CH3)2-CH2-C(CH3)3-基团,和
A是NH基团。
c)至少一种颜料,选自云母或云母基彩色颜料,所述彩色颜料含有涂覆的一种或多种选自以下组的金属氧化物:二氧化钛(CI 77891)、黑色氧化铁(CI 77499)、黄色氧化铁(CI 77492)、红色和/或棕色氧化铁(CI 77491、CI 77499)、锰紫(CI 77742)、群青(硫化硅酸铝钠、CI 77007、颜料蓝29)、氧化铬水合物(CI 77289)、氧化铬(CI 77288)和/或铁蓝(亚铁氰化铁、CI 77510)。
这样的化妆剂对外部环境影响(比如雨水、汗液、纺织品和梳子造成的磨损)具有高抗性,并且仍然可以通过单次施用含表面活性剂的清洁剂除去而不留下残留物。当施用于角蛋白纤维,特别是头发时,也实现优异的保持度和高耐湿性。高耐湿性避免了头发暴露于湿气时的发粘。当施用于皮肤时,这些试剂具有良好的化妆性能,并且不会导致皮肤干燥或油腻。
本发明的试剂含有在载体中的所有必须组分。特别地,含水、含水醇和醇载体可用作载体。当使用醇载体时,上述必须成分形成a)化妆品载体。由于载体的含水量,还可以影响颜料在角蛋白表面上的沉积和聚合物b)的成膜。如果含水量太高,则存在产品不能足够快地干燥的风险。特别地,当将试剂调节至较低粘度(例如,因为它们将被喷雾)时,颜色结果可能不均匀。因此,根据本发明,如果化妆剂含有基于化妆品的总重量的总量为0-30wt%,优选0-20wt.-%,优选0-10wt.-%,特别是0-2.0wt.-%的水,则是优选的。
本发明的化妆剂可用于角蛋白纤维,特别是头发的同时暂时的颜色和形状改变。此外,这些试剂可用于暂时改变皮肤的颜色。为此目的,它们可以制成通常的形式,例如凝胶、喷雾、泡沫或蜡。作为喷雾的制剂是优选的。这种喷雾可以是气溶胶和非气溶胶的形式,并且从专家已知的容器中喷雾。如果将试剂配制成气溶胶,则存在至少一种另外的推进剂。根据本发明适合的推进剂例如选自N2O、二甲醚、CO2、空气、具有3至5个碳原子的烷烃,比如丙烷、正丁烷、异丁烷、正戊烷和异戊烷,及其混合物。二甲醚特别优选作为推进剂。本发明还明确地包括共同使用氟氯烃型发泡剂,特别是碳氟化合物。优选含有基于化妆剂的总重量的总量为30-70wt%,优选35-75wt%,特别是40-60wt%的发泡剂。
先有技术中众所周知的一次性染色产品通常含有脂肪物质。这些脂肪物质还可以在角蛋白表面上形成膜,该膜将保护颜料在使用后免受磨损或被水洗掉。然而,脂肪物质的主要缺点是它们在角蛋白表面上产生不太有利的触感,这特别表现为坚硬感和油腻感。角蛋白表面看起来很重并且还产生视觉上油腻的印象。
因此,本发明优选化妆品仅含有小比例的脂肪物质。因此,本发明的第一主题的优选集合的特征在于,化妆剂含有基于化妆品的总重量的总量为0-2.5wt.-%,优选0-1.5wt.-%,优选0-0.5wt.-%,更优选0-0.1wt.-%,特别是0wt.%的脂肪物质。为了本发明的目的,“脂肪物质”是在室温(22℃)和大气压(760mmHg)下在水中的溶解度小于1重量%,优选小于0.1wt.-%的有机化合物。脂肪成分的定义明确地仅包括不带电荷(即非离子)的化合物。带电荷化合物比如脂肪酸及其盐不认为是用于本发明目的的脂肪成分,脂肪物质具有至少一个具有至少12个碳原子的饱和或不饱和烷基。如果脂肪物质含有不饱和烷基,则其可具有一个或多个双键。脂肪组分的分子量为至多5000g/mol,优选至多2500g/mol,更优选至多1000g/mol。脂肪组分既不是聚氧化烷基化的也不是聚甘油化的化合物。因此,用至少两个氧基烷基或至少两个甘油单元酯化或醚化的脂肪醇或脂肪酸不落入脂肪物质的定义。
优选以最多2.5重量%的总量包含的脂肪物质选自(i)C12-C30脂肪醇;(ii)C12-C30脂肪酸甘油三酯;(iii)1当量乙二醇(1,2-乙二醇)与2当量脂肪酸的二酯(乙二醇二脂肪酸酯);(iv)蜡;(v)具有至少12个碳原子的烃;及(vi)其混合物。C12-C30脂肪醇是含有12-30个碳原子的饱和、单不饱和或多不饱和、直链或支化脂肪醇。这种C12-C30脂肪醇的示例是十二烷-1-醇(十二烷醇、月桂醇)、十四烷-1-醇(十四烷醇、肉豆蔻醇)、十六烷-1-醇(十六烷醇、鲸蜡醇、棕榈醇)、十八烷-1-醇(十八烷醇、硬脂醇)、花生醇(二十烷-1-醇)、二十一烷醇(二十一烷-1-醇)和/或山嵛醇(二十二烷-1-醇)。支化脂肪醇的示例是2-辛基十二烷醇、2-己基十二烷醇和/或2-丁基十二烷醇。C12-C30脂肪酸甘油三酯是三元醇甘油与3当量脂肪酸的单酯、二酯和三酯。甘油三酯分子内结构相同和不同的脂肪酸都可以参与酯的形成。蜡是C12-C30脂肪酸与C12-C30脂肪醇的酯。根据本发明,烃是仅由碳原子和氢原子组成的化合物。烃的示例是矿物油、液体石蜡油(例如:石蜡油或凡士林油)、异链烷烃油、半固体石蜡油、石蜡、硬石蜡(石蜡固体)、凡士林和聚癸烯。另一方面,硅氧烷不包括在脂肪物质的定义中。
因此,根据本发明,不包括的或包含在上述定量范围内的脂肪物质优选选自C12-C30脂肪醇、C12-C30脂肪酸甘油三酯、C12-C30脂肪酸甘油二酯、C12-C30脂肪酸甘油单酯、乙二醇二脂肪酸酯、蜡、烃及其混合物。
在下表中,列出了根据本发明的化妆剂的特别优选的型号AF1至AF48(所有数据均以wt.-%计)。
1)选自具有2至8个碳原子的脂族和/或芳族醇,
2)含有式(I)至(III)的结构单元,其中R1、R2和R4各自=H或C1-C4-烷基、R3=支化或非支化、饱和或不饱和C1-C12-烷基、R5=支化或非支化、饱和或不饱和C6-C14-烷基、A=O、S或NH,
3)含有式(I)至(III)的结构单元,其中R1、R4各自=H、R2=甲基、R3=*-CH2-C(CH3)2-基团、R5=*-C(CH3)2-CH2-C(CH3)3-基团、A=NH
4)选自乙醇,
5)选自基于云母或云母的彩色颜料,其涂覆有一种或多种选自如下组的金属氧化物:二氧化钛(CI 77891)、黑色氧化铁(CI 77499)、黄色氧化铁(CI 77492)、红色和/或棕色氧化铁(CI 77491、CI 77499)、锰紫(CI 77742)、群青(硫化硅酸铝钠、CI 77007、颜料蓝29)、氧化铬水合物(CI 77289)、氧化铬(CI 77288)和/或铁蓝(亚铁氰化铁、CI 77510),
6)选自C12-C30脂肪醇、C12-C30脂肪酸甘油三酯、C12-C30脂肪酸甘油二酯、C12-C30脂肪酸甘油单酯、乙二醇二脂肪酸酯、蜡、烃及其混合物。
通过使用特定阴离子聚合物结合特定的醇,形成均匀的防水的含颜料膜。该膜对外部环境影响(如水、汗液和磨损)极其稳定,但可通过单次施用含表面活性剂的清洁剂从角蛋白表面除去而不留下残留物。此外,该聚合物的使用导致所形成的聚合物膜的高保持性和高柔韧性。因此,除了暂时改变颜色外,将该试剂施用到头发上还同时导致高度防湿保持性。此外,这些试剂在施用于皮肤和头发后具有良好的化妆性能。
除了上述组分之外,本发明的化妆品组合物还可以含有其他成分。这些其他成分的组特别包括化妆品有效的助剂和添加剂,比如表面活性剂、调理剂、增稠剂和pH调节剂。
根据本发明的试剂可以另外含有至少一种非离子表面活性剂。合适的非离子表面活性剂是脂肪醇和脂肪酸的烷基多糖苷和环氧烷加合物,在每种情况下每摩尔脂肪醇或脂肪酸具有2-30摩尔环氧乙烷。如果它们含有已经与至少2摩尔环氧乙烷反应的乙氧基化甘油的脂肪酸酯作为非离子表面活性剂,也可以获得具有良好性能的制剂。以基于试剂总重量的0.1-45wt%,优选1-30wt%,最优选1-15wt%的总量使用非离子表面活性剂。
根据本发明的试剂可以另外含有至少一种阳离子表面活性剂。阳离子表面活性剂应被认为是指各自具有一个或多个正电荷的表面活性剂,即表面活性化合物。阳离子表面活性剂仅含有正电荷。通常,这些表面活性剂由疏水性部分和亲水性头部基团组成,由此疏水性部分通常由烃骨架(例如由一个或两个直链或支化烷基链组成)组成,并且一个或多个正电荷位于亲水性头部基团中。阳离子表面活性剂的示例是
-季铵化合物,其作为疏水性基团可以携带一个或两个链长为8至28个C原子的烷基链,
-被一个或多个具有8至28个C原子链长的烷基链取代的季鏻盐,或
-叔锍盐。
此外,阳离子电荷还可以是杂环的鎓结构部分的形式(例如咪唑鎓或吡啶鎓环)。除了带有阳离子电荷的功能单元之外,阳离子表面活性剂还可以含有其他不带电荷的官能团,例如酯季铵盐的情况。以基于试剂的总重量的总量0.1-45wt.-%,优选1-30wt.-%,最优选1-15wt.-%使用阳离子表面活性剂。
已经发现阴离子表面活性剂的使用不利于角蛋白纤维上颜料的耐磨性。为此,优选在本发明的试剂中不使用阴离子表面活性剂。阴离子表面活性剂是仅具有阴离子电荷(被相应的抗衡阳离子中和)的表面活性剂。阴离子表面活性剂的示例是脂肪酸、烷基硫酸盐、烷基醚硫酸盐和醚羧酸,在烷基中具有12-20个碳原子并且在分子中具有至多16个二醇醚基团。
在另外优选的模型中,本发明中的试剂的特征在于它们含有在每种情况下基于化妆品的总重量的总量为0-2.5重量.-%,优选0-1.5wt.-%,优选0-0.5wt.-%,更优选0-0.1wt.-%,特别是0wt.-%的阴离子表面活性剂。
根据本发明的试剂还可以包含至少一种两性离子和/或两性表面活性剂。合适的两性离子表面活性剂是甜菜碱、N-烷基-N,N-二甲基甘氨酸铵、N-酰基-氨基丙基-N,N-二甲基甘氨酸铵和2-烷基-3-羧甲基-3-羟乙基-咪唑啉。优选的两性离子表面活性剂已知INCI名称为椰油酰胺丙基甜菜碱。合适的两性表面活性剂是N-烷基甘氨酸、N-烷基丙酸、N-烷基氨基丁酸、N-烷基亚氨基二丙酸、N-羟乙基-N-烷基酰胺基丙基甘氨酸、N-烷基牛磺酸、N-烷基肌氨酸、2-烷基氨基丙酸和烷基氨基乙酸。特别优选的两性表面活性剂是N-椰油烷基氨基丙酸酯、椰油酰基氨基乙基氨基丙酸酯和C12-C18-酰基肌氨酸。
以基于试剂的总重量的0.1-45wt.-%,优选1-30wt.-%,最优选1-15wt.%的总量使用两性和/或两性离子表面活性剂。
本发明试剂的优点是它们可以配制成各种形式。当使用海绵或小刷子施用时,可以获得非常均匀的染色效果和耐水和耐磨染色。同样地,也可以将本发明的试剂配制成喷雾。特别地,通过喷涂获得的染色的特征在于非常高的均匀性和防水性。
根据所选择的施用形式,将本发明的试剂调节至特定粘度。这通常通过使用一种或多种增稠剂来完成。基本上,增稠剂的选择是不受限制的。可以使用有机增稠剂或纯无机增稠剂。
合适的增稠剂是阴离子合成聚合物;阳离子合成聚合物;天然存在的增稠剂,比如非离子瓜耳胶、硬葡聚糖胶或黄原胶、阿拉伯胶、茄替胶、刺梧桐树胶、黄蓍胶、角叉菜胶、琼脂、刺槐豆胶、果胶、藻酸盐、淀粉级分和衍生物,比如直链淀粉、支化淀粉和糊精,以及纤维素衍生物,比如甲基纤维素、羧烷基纤维素和羟烷基纤维素;非离子的全合成聚合物,比如聚乙烯醇或聚乙烯吡咯烷酮;以及无机增稠剂,特别是层状硅酸盐,比如膨润土,特别是蒙脱石,比如蒙脱土或水辉石(hectorites)。
可以通过多糖,特别是选自羧基-C1-C6-烷基纤维素、羟基-C2-C8-烷基纤维素、藻酸和/或黄原胶的多糖特别简单和可重复地设置试剂的粘度。
通过改变所用多糖的量,可以将试剂装配成用于刷子或海绵施用的凝胶或低粘度可喷雾的溶液。配方的其他成分或用量不必在此调节,这对于试剂的生产是特别有利的。因此,在另一个特别优选的设计模型中,本发明的试剂的特征在于它还含有至少一种选自如下组的多糖作为增稠剂:羧基-C1-C6-烷基纤维素、羟基-C2-C8-烷基纤维素,包括藻酸和/或黄原胶。
在最特别优选的设计模型中,本发明的试剂的特征在于它还含有至少一种选自羟基-C2-C8-烷基纤维素的多糖作为增稠剂。
一种或多种增稠剂可以以相对于试剂总重量的0.1-4.5wt.-%,优选0.15-3.5wt.-%,特别优选0.2-2.0wt.-%的总量用于本发明的试剂。
上述增稠剂中的一些(例如层状硅酸盐,比如膨润土,特别是蒙脱石,比如蒙脱土或水辉石)可以另外作为稳定剂用于本发明试剂中。
然而,在一些情况下,已经观察到通常阳离子改性的膨润土(bentonites)、garamites和/或钠基蒙脱土(Laponites)有时可导致本发明试剂的稳定性丧失,因为它们与本发明必需的阴离子聚合物不利地相互作用。
这可以通过选择特定有机改性的水辉石来抵消。它们作为凝胶存在于有机溶剂中并且可以容易地掺入到本发明的组合物中。它们另外稳定本发明的组合物并防止颜料在储存过程中沉淀和/或结块。
为了调节pH,本发明的试剂可以含有一种或多种碱化试剂。可根据本发明用于设定所需pH值的碱化剂可选自以下组:氨、烷醇胺、碱性氨基酸和无机碱化剂,比如碱(土)金属氢氧化物、碱(土)金属硅酸盐、碱(土)金属磷酸盐和碱(土)金属磷酸氢盐。为了调节pH,本发明的试剂可以含有一种或多种酸。为了调节pH,本发明的组合物可以含有一种或多种酸。合适的酸是例如有机酸,比如α-羟基羧酸或无机酸。
此外,试剂可以含有一种或多种非离子聚合物。
合适的非离子聚合物是例如:
-乙烯吡咯烷酮/乙烯基酯共聚物,
-淀粉及其衍生物,特别是淀粉醚,
-虫胶,
-聚乙烯吡咯烷酮。
此外,本发明的试剂可以含有另外的活性助剂和另外的试剂,例如线性阳离子聚合物,比如季铵化纤维素醚、具有季铵化基团的聚硅氧烷、甲基丙烯酸二甲基氨基乙酯-乙烯吡咯烷酮-用硫酸二乙酯季铵化的共聚物、乙烯吡咯烷酮-咪唑啉鎓-甲基氯化物-共聚物和季铵化聚乙烯醇;两性离子和两性聚合物(其不同于本发明的聚合物);阴离子聚合物,比如聚丙烯酸或复合聚丙烯酸;结构化剂(structurants),比如葡萄糖、马来酸和乳酸、头发调理化合物,比如磷脂,比如卵磷脂和脑磷脂;芳香油、二甲基异山梨醇酯和环糊精;纤维结构增强成分、特别是单糖、二糖和寡糖,比如葡萄糖、半乳糖、果糖、水果糖和乳糖;用于试剂的着色剂;去头皮屑成分,比如吡罗克酮乙醇胺、暗罗素和氯咪巴唑;氨基酸和寡肽;基于植物或动物的蛋白质水解产物,以及它们的脂肪酸缩合产物的形式、或在适当的情况下阴离子或阳离子改性的衍生物;光稳定剂和UV阻断剂;活性成分比如泛醇、泛酸、泛内酯、尿囊素、吡咯烷酮羧酸及其盐和没药醇;多酚,特别是羟基肉桂酸、6,7-二羟基香豆素、羟基苯甲酸、儿茶素、cannins、无色花色素、花色素、黄烷酮、黄酮和黄烷醇;神经酰胺或假神经酰胺;维生素、维生素原和维生素前体;植物提取物;脂肪和蜡,比如脂肪醇、蜂蜡、褐煤蜡和石蜡;溶胀和渗透剂,比如甘油、丙二醇单乙醚、碳酸盐、碳酸氢盐、胍、脲以及伯、仲和叔磷酸盐;遮光剂,比如胶乳、苯乙烯/PVP和苯乙烯/丙烯酰胺共聚物例如PEG-3二硬脂酸酯;推进剂,比如丙烷-丁烷混合物、N2O、二甲醚、CO2和空气。
将由专家根据试剂的所需性质选择这些其他物质。关于其他任选存在的组分和这些组分的用量,特别参考专家已知的相关手册。另外的活性成分和助剂优选以基于所使用的化妆剂的总重量的0.0001至25重量.-%,特别是0.0005至15wt.-%的量用于根据本发明的试剂。
当以泵喷雾的形式或气溶胶喷雾的形式使用时,使用者可以将本发明的试剂直接喷雾到干头发或皮肤上,从而产生所需的暂时的颜色改变。
在施用到头发的情况下,使用者可以首先-例如通过梳理、逆梳,或通过使用卷发器-造型他的头发,然后喷洒试剂。也可以首先喷洒本发明的组合物,然后或同时通过上述方法以上述形式设计发型。也可以首先喷雾试剂,然后或同时通过上述方法定型头发。
因此,本发明的第二个目的是暂时改变和染色角蛋白纤维的方法,该方法包含以下步骤:
a)以凝胶、泵喷雾或气溶胶喷雾形式提供根据本发明的化妆剂,
b)将步骤a)中提供的化妆剂施用(特别是喷雾施用)到角蛋白纤维,
c)将步骤b)中施用的化妆剂分布在角蛋白纤维上并将角蛋白纤维定型成所需形状。
原则上,含角蛋白的纤维应被认为是意指所有动物毛发,例如羊毛、马毛、安哥拉毛、毛皮、羽毛和由其制成的产品或纺织品。然而,优选地,角蛋白纤维是人类头发。
关于本发明方法的另外优选的模型,特别是关于其中使用的化妆剂,关于本发明试剂的相同陈述同样适用。
本发明的第三个目的是暂时给皮肤染色的方法,该方法包括以下步骤:
a)以凝胶、泵喷雾或气溶胶喷雾形式提供根据本发明的化妆剂,
b)将步骤a)中提供的化妆品施用(特别是喷雾施用)到皮肤上,
c)将步骤b)中施用的化妆剂分布在皮肤上。
关于本发明方法的另外优选的模型,特别是关于在此使用的化妆剂,关于本发明试剂的相同陈述同样适用。
最后,本发明的另一个主题是包含至少一种式(I)的结构单元和至少一种式(II)的结构单元和至少一种式(III)的结构单元的阴离子聚合物在含颜料的化妆剂中改进这些试剂的防水性的用途:
其中
R1、R2和R4彼此独立地表示氢原子或C1-C4烷基,
R3表示支化或非支化的、饱和或不饱和的C1-C12烷基,
R5表示支化或非支化的、饱和或不饱和的C6-C14烷基,和
A表示氧、硫或NH基团。
通过改进防水性,根据本发明可以理解的是,使用这些聚合物导致使用水时洗去的沉积在表面上的颜料的减少或完全没有。
根据本发明的优选模型,使用包含至少一种式(I)的结构单元和至少一种式(II)的结构单元和至少一种式(III)的结构单元的阴离子聚合物,
其中
R1和R4各自彼此独立地表示氢,
R2表示甲基,
R3是*-CH2-C(CH3)2基团,
R5表示*-C(CH3)2-CH2-C(CH3)3基团,且
A表示NH基团。
关于本发明施用的另外优选的模型,特别是关于其中使用的化妆剂,关于本发明试剂的相同陈述以及关于本发明方法的陈述同样适用。
以下实施例举例说明本发明,但不限于此。
实施例:
1.防水试验
为了测定染色的防水性,制备以下组合物(重量百分比的所有数字均基于相应化妆剂的总重量):
| 原料 | V1 | E1 |
| 变性乙醇99% | 80.7 | 80.7 |
| 阴离子聚合物<sup>1)</sup> | - | 1.5 |
| 颜料<sup>2)</sup> | 11 | 11 |
| PVP/VA-共聚物60/40W NP | 3.5 | 2.0 |
| 甘油99.5% | 2.0 | 2.0 |
| D-泛醇75% | 0.20 | 0.20 |
| Dehyquart A CA<sup>3)</sup> | 0.45 | 0.45 |
| 硬脂酰胺丙基二甲胺 | 1.3 | 1.3 |
| KOH 50% | 0.20 | 0.20 |
| 香精 | 0.65 | 0.65 |
1)含有式(I)至(III)的结构单元,其中R1、R4各自=H、R2=甲基、R3=*-CH2-C(CH3)2-基团,R5=*-C(CH3)2-CH2-C(CH3)3-基团,A=NH,
2)Colorona Dark Blue,INCI名称MICA、二氧化钛、亚铁氰化铁(Merck)
3)INCI名称:AQUA(水)、西曲氯铵(BASF)。
通过混合上述成分获得化妆品V1和E1并分别将其施用到发束(Kerling6-0,浅棕色)。干燥后,在两种情况下都获得具有金属光泽的均匀深蓝色。随后,用水清洗发束。虽然在用根据本发明的试剂E1处理的发绺中没有观察到对染色的影响,但是用试剂V1获得的颜色被完全洗掉。然而,通过用含表面活性剂的清洁组合物(洗发剂)单次清洗,可以除去用组合物E1获得的染色而不留下残留物。因此,与非离子PVP/VA聚合物相比,使用特定阴离子聚合物导致暂时染发的增大的防水性,但不会不利地影响通过含表面活性剂的清洁剂的可洗性。
2.本发明其它实施例
| 原料 | E1 |
| 变性乙醇96% | 85.45 |
| 阴离子聚合物<sup>1)</sup> | 0.75 |
| 颜料<sup>4)</sup> | 7 |
| 甘油99.5% | 0.50 |
| D-泛醇75% | 0.20 |
| 香精 | 0.10 |
| Bentone Gel IPM V<sup>5)</sup> | 6 |
4)INCI名称:MICA,CI 77491(铁氧化物);Merck
5)INCI名称:肉豆蔻酸异丙酯、司拉氯铵水辉石、碳酸丙烯酯;Elementis
Claims (10)
2.根据权利要求1所述的化妆品组合物,其特征在于,在式(I)和式(III)的结构单元中,基团R1和R4在每种情况下彼此独立地表示氢原子,并且在式(II)的结构单元中,基团R2表示甲基。
3.根据权利要求1或2所述的化妆品组合物,其特征在于,在式(III)的结构单元中,A表示NH基团。
4.根据前述权利要求中任一项所述的化妆品组合物,其特征在于,在式(III)的结构单元中,基团R5表示支化C6-C10烷基,特别是*-C(CH3)2-CH2-C(CH3)3基团。
5.根据前述权利要求中任一项所述的化妆品组合物,其特征在于,基于所述化妆剂的总重量,包含a)总量为0.1-10wt.-%,优选0.5-8.0wt.-%,优选1.0-5.5wt.-%,特别是1.0-2.5wt.-%的至少一种阴离子聚合物。
6.根据前述权利要求中任一项所述的化妆品组合物,其特征在于,所述至少一种颜料是含有一种或多种选自以下组的金属氧化物的云母或云母基彩色颜料:二氧化钛(CI77891)、黑色氧化铁(CI 77499)、黄色氧化铁(CI 77492)、红色和/或棕色氧化铁(CI77491、CI 77499)、锰紫(CI 77742)、群青(硫化硅酸铝钠、CI 77007、颜料蓝29)、氧化铬水合物(CI 77289)、氧化铬(CI 77288)和/或铁蓝(亚铁氰化铁、CI 77510)。
7.根据前述权利要求中任一项所述的化妆品组合物,其特征在于,在每种情况下基于所述化妆品的总重量,含有总量为1.0-25重量%,优选5.0-20wt.-%,优选7.0-18wt.-%,特别是8.5-15.5wt.-%的所述至少一种颜料。
8.用于角蛋白纤维的暂时造型和染色的方法,所述方法包含以下步骤:
a)以凝胶、泵喷雾或气溶胶喷雾形式提供根据权利要求1至7中任一项所述的化妆剂,
b)将步骤a)中提供的所述化妆剂施用特别是喷雾施用于角蛋白纤维,
c)将步骤b)中施用的所述化妆品分布在所述角蛋白纤维上并将所述角蛋白纤维定型成所需形状。
9.一种用于皮肤的暂时染色的方法,所述方法包含以下步骤:
a)以凝胶、泵喷雾或气溶胶喷雾形式提供根据权利要求1至7中任一项所述的化妆剂,
b)将步骤a)中提供的所述化妆品施用特别是喷雾施用到皮肤上,
c)将步骤b)中施用的化妆剂分布在皮肤上。
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2018
- 2018-07-02 US US16/629,659 patent/US11219584B2/en active Active
- 2018-07-02 EP EP18736886.5A patent/EP3651729B1/de active Active
- 2018-07-02 JP JP2020501238A patent/JP7167125B2/ja active Active
- 2018-07-02 WO PCT/EP2018/067817 patent/WO2019011697A1/de not_active Ceased
- 2018-07-02 CN CN201880057017.7A patent/CN111050737B/zh active Active
Patent Citations (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN102106795A (zh) * | 2009-12-23 | 2011-06-29 | 欧莱雅 | 包含有机硅化合物、阴离子型表面活性剂和非离子型增稠剂的化妆品组合物及其使用方法 |
| CN105997541A (zh) * | 2011-06-17 | 2016-10-12 | 莱雅公司 | 包含表面活性剂和固体脂肪醇的化妆品组合物及化妆方法 |
| US20140150186A1 (en) * | 2011-08-17 | 2014-06-05 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Use of an agent for keratin fibers, containing at least one nonionic starch modified by means of propylene oxide and at least one additional film-forming and/or strengthening polymer, for improving the color preservation oxidative hair colorations |
| DE102012223936A1 (de) * | 2012-12-20 | 2014-06-26 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Färbeverfahren für keratinische Fasern |
| WO2016062467A1 (de) * | 2014-10-23 | 2016-04-28 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Temporäre farbveränderung von haaren mit pigmenten, alkoholen und zwitterionischen bzw. kationischen polymeren |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| JP7167125B2 (ja) | 2022-11-08 |
| EP3651729A1 (de) | 2020-05-20 |
| US20200163848A1 (en) | 2020-05-28 |
| US11219584B2 (en) | 2022-01-11 |
| WO2019011697A1 (de) | 2019-01-17 |
| CN111050737B (zh) | 2023-02-28 |
| JP2020527142A (ja) | 2020-09-03 |
| DE102017211853A1 (de) | 2019-01-17 |
| EP3651729B1 (de) | 2023-11-29 |
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