CN116019727A - A kind of cosmetic composition and its application in sun protection - Google Patents
A kind of cosmetic composition and its application in sun protection Download PDFInfo
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- CN116019727A CN116019727A CN202210983526.0A CN202210983526A CN116019727A CN 116019727 A CN116019727 A CN 116019727A CN 202210983526 A CN202210983526 A CN 202210983526A CN 116019727 A CN116019727 A CN 116019727A
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Abstract
本发明涉及A61K8，更具体地，本发明涉及一种化妆品组合物及其在防晒中的应用，化妆品组合物的原料包括10‑40重量份表面疏水处理的物理防晒剂、5‑40重量份油分、0.2‑1重量份烷基改性纤维素、0.1‑1重量份耐盐性增稠剂和0.1‑0.5重量份分散剂。本发明提供的水包油型的化妆品组合物，能够显著增加含防晒剂的紫外线吸收效果，在用于皮肤时，还能使皮肤不过于粉白，使妆感自然。涂布到皮肤上时具有清爽、水润的触感，没有油腻感和粘腻感。The present invention relates to A61K8, more specifically, the present invention relates to a kind of cosmetic composition and its application in sunscreen, and the raw material of cosmetic composition comprises the physical sunscreen agent of 10-40 weight part surface hydrophobic treatment, 5-40 weight part oil , 0.2-1 parts by weight of alkyl modified cellulose, 0.1-1 parts by weight of salt-resistant thickener and 0.1-0.5 parts by weight of dispersant. The oil-in-water cosmetic composition provided by the invention can significantly increase the ultraviolet absorption effect of the sunscreen agent, and when used on the skin, it can keep the skin from being too pink and make the makeup feel natural. It has a refreshing, moist touch when applied to the skin, without a greasy or sticky feeling.
Description
Technical Field
The present invention relates to a61K8, more specifically to a cosmetic composition and its use in sunscreening.
Background
Physical sunscreens are more safe than chemical sunscreens and are therefore of great interest. The physical sunscreens are typically nano-TiO 2 And ZnO, with the intensive research, researchers have made nano TiO in order to make the surface of a physical sunscreen agent not have photochemical activity 2 Hydrophobic surface treatment with ZnO, and combining these with volatile oils such as cyclopentadimethicone, low viscosity dimethicone, isoparaffin, etc., to form a water-in-oil structure, so that nano TiO 2 And ZnO exerts sun protection properties.
The patent No. CN110559197B provides a sunscreen emulsion and a preparation method thereof, wherein zinc oxide and titanium oxide which are dispersed and wrapped by oil are mixed with cyclopenta-dimethicone, and plant extracts are added to obtain the sunscreen emulsion with good sun protection effect. The patent No. CN109549859B provides a low-irritation multiple-emulsion sunscreen cosmetic and a preparation method thereof, wherein hydrophobic modified titanium dioxide or zinc oxide is added, and meanwhile, C9-C13 isoparaffin is added, so that the water-in-oil sunscreen with low irritation is obtained.
However, although the water-in-oil sunscreen agent enables the skin feel to be fresh and cool by adding the volatile oil, the volatile oil has strong degreasing force, and volatilizes and takes away grease on the surface of the skin to lead to skin dryness.
Disclosure of Invention
In order to solve the above problems, the first aspect of the present invention provides a cosmetic composition, whose raw materials include 10 to 40 parts by weight of a surface-hydrophobically treated physical sunscreen agent, 5 to 40 parts by weight of an oil component, 0.2 to 1 part by weight of an alkyl modified cellulose, 0.1 to 1 part by weight of a salt-tolerant thickener, and 0.1 to 0.5 part by weight of a dispersant.
As a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the surface-hydrophobically treated physical sunscreens include surface-hydrophobically treated titanium dioxide and surface-hydrophobically treated zinc oxide.
Preferably, in the surface-hydrophobically treated physical sunscreen agent, the weight ratio of the surface-hydrophobically treated titanium dioxide to the surface-hydrophobically treated zinc oxide is (8-17): (12-25).
Further preferably, the weight ratio of the surface hydrophobically treated titanium dioxide to the surface hydrophobically treated zinc oxide is 10:15, or 15:20.
as a preferable technical scheme of the invention, the surface hydrophobic treatment titanium dioxide consists of three layers, namely rutile titanium dioxide, silica and dimethyl silicone oil from inside to outside.
Preferably, surface hydrophobically treated titanium dioxide is available from PARSOL TX, sakai chemical company, MT-100A-LP, imperial chemical, MT-10EX, etc.
As a preferable technical scheme of the invention, the surface of the zinc oxide subjected to surface hydrophobic treatment is subjected to siloxane treatment, the average particle size is 30-50nm, and the specific surface area is 10-30m 2 /g。
Preferably, surface hydrophobically treated zinc oxide is available from FINEX-33W-LP2 of Sakai chemistry, znO-NAS of advanced chemistry, Z-COTE HP1 of Basf, and the like.
Preferably, the oil component is selected from one or more of isononyl isononanoate, polydimethylsiloxane, caprylic/capric triglyceride.
Further preferred, the oil is isononyl isononanoate, polydimethylsiloxane and caprylic/capric triglyceride.
Still more preferably, the isononyl isononanoate, polydimethylsiloxane and caprylic/capric triglyceride are present in a weight ratio of (2-9): (5-15): (1-6).
Still more preferably, the isononyl isononanoate, polydimethylsiloxane and caprylic/capric triglyceride are present in a weight ratio of 5:8:3.
as a preferable technical scheme of the invention, the alkyl modified cellulose contains unbranched long-chain alkane, wherein the carbon number of the long-chain alkane is more than or equal to 12.
Preferably, the alkyl modified cellulose has hydrophobicity.
Further preferably, the alkyl modified cellulose is cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose.
In order to avoid volatile oil and adjust the powder addition, the water-in-oil structure formed with the physical sunscreens not only can carry away skin moisture, leading to skin dryness, but also can generate the phenomenon of 'rubbing' the skin, the applicant proposes an oil-in-water structure. However, the development of oil-in-water type pure physical sunscreen formulations faces various difficulties, the physical sunscreen agents which are not subjected to hydrophobic treatment have photocatalytic activity and toxicity, the safety is low, the physical sunscreen agents which are subjected to hydrophobic treatment can reduce the stability of an oil-in-water system due to the hydrophobic property of the physical sunscreen agents, and metal ions in titanium oxide and zinc oxide of the physical sunscreen agents can slowly precipitate out of the original package structure along with the time, so that the sunscreen emulsion system is damaged, and even the sunscreen emulsion system collapses. In order to overcome the technical resistance, through a large number of experiments, the applicant finds that unbranched long-chain alkane is added into a system, and the carbon number is controlled to be more than or equal to 12 in the long-chain alkane, and the weight ratio of the titanium dioxide subjected to surface hydrophobic treatment to the zinc oxide subjected to surface hydrophobic treatment is (8-17): in the compound system of (12-25), the phenomenon can be obviously improved, the refreshing skin feel is ensured, the stability of the system is improved, the physical sun-screening agent is not easy to agglomerate and generate the problem of mud rubbing even after being placed for a long time, the sun-screening milk can not generate dry skin feel, and in addition, the protection effect of the sun-screening milk on UVA and UVB in ultraviolet rays is also unexpectedly improved especially by being matched with a compound oil component system consisting of isononyl isononanoate, polydimethylsiloxane and caprylic/capric triglyceride. The applicant speculates that cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose has a specific polarity, regulating the charge distribution, and that charge adsorption between the oil-in-water particles formed with isononyl isononanoate, polydimethylsiloxane, caprylic/capric triglyceride complex oil and physical sunscreens is affected, thus improving the performance of the sunscreen emulsion system.
As a preferable technical scheme of the invention, the salt-resistant thickening agent is selected from one or more of high molecular copolymer, fermentation product extract and natural gum modifier.
Preferably, the high molecular polymer is polyacrylate crosslinked polymer-6 or acrylic acid (ester) copolymer.
Preferably, the fermentation product extract is a Sphingomonas fermentation product extract.
As a preferable technical scheme of the invention, the dispersing agent is selected from one or more of polyhydroxystearic acid, glycerol-2 dimer hydroxystearate and dodecahydroxystearic acid.
Preferably, the dispersant is polyhydroxystearic acid.
As a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the raw materials of the cosmetic composition further include a chelating agent, a preservative, a humectant, an antioxidant and water.
Preferably, the chelating agent is disodium EDTA and the preservative is phenoxyethanol.
Preferably, the humectant is butylene glycol; the antioxidant is tocopherol.
In the cosmetic composition system provided by the invention, the composition is very easy to become smelly due to oxidative fission due to the addition of more grease and metal ions, and a lot of experiments by the applicant find that the addition of tocopherol with a specific proportion in the system can improve the problems, so that the system is not easy to become smelly, and the stability of the composition is improved.
Further preferably, the weight ratio of humectant to antioxidant is 3: (0.02-0.09).
Still more preferably, the weight ratio of humectant to antioxidant is 3:0.05.
the butanediol is 1, 3-butanediol.
As a preferable technical scheme of the invention, the preparation method of the cosmetic composition comprises the following steps: (1) mixing for one time; (2) secondary mixing.
Preferably, the raw materials of the cosmetic composition are divided into a phase a, a phase B and a phase C, which respectively include, in parts by weight:
phase A: 10-40 parts of a physical sun-screening agent with a surface subjected to hydrophobic treatment, 5-40 parts of oil, and 0.15-0.5 part of a dispersing agent;
and B phase: 0.02-0.1 part of chelating agent, 40-60 parts of water, 0.2-1 part of alkyl modified cellulose, 0.1-1 part of salt-resistant thickener, 3 parts of humectant and 0.02-0.09 part of antioxidant;
and C phase: 0.2-0.4 part of preservative.
The preparation method of the cosmetic composition comprises the following steps: (1) primary mixing: mixing the phase B raw materials at 25 ℃, adding the phase A raw materials into the phase B, and stirring; (2) secondary mixing: at 25 ℃, adding a C-phase raw material into the substances after primary mixing.
In a second aspect, the present invention provides the use of a cosmetic composition in sunscreening.
Preferably, compared with the prior art, the invention has the following beneficial effects:
adding unbranched long-chain alkane into the system, controlling the carbon number in the long-chain alkane to be more than or equal to 12, and controlling the weight ratio of the titanium dioxide subjected to surface hydrophobic treatment to the zinc oxide subjected to surface hydrophobic treatment to be (8-17): in the compound system of (12-25), the phenomenon can be obviously improved, the refreshing skin feel is ensured, the stability of the system is improved, the physical sun-screening agent is not easy to agglomerate and generate the problem of mud rubbing even after being placed for a long time, the sun-screening milk can not generate dry skin feel, and in addition, the compound oil system composed of isononyl isononanoate, polydimethylsiloxane and caprylic/capric triglyceride is matched, so that the defending effect of the sun-screening milk on UVA and UVB in ultraviolet rays is also unexpectedly improved; the polyhydroxy stearic acid and the polyacrylate crosslinked polymer-6 cooperate to further improve the stability and compatibility of the composition, adhere to the surfaces of physical sun-screening agent particles, avoid aggregation of various molecules of the system, ensure that the molecular particles of the composition are more uniform and finer, obviously increase the ultraviolet absorption effect of the sun-screening agent, and enable the skin to be not white and make the make-up feel natural when being applied to the skin. The oil-in-water type cosmetic composition provided by the invention realizes ultraviolet ray protection capability, has fresh and moist touch feeling when being coated on skin, and has no greasy feeling and sticky feeling.
Detailed Description
Examples
The raw materials for the preparation of the compositions in the examples are all commercially available, wherein the surface hydrophobicized titanium dioxide is obtained from Dissman, trade name PARSOL TX and consists of three layers of rutile titanium dioxide, silica and simethicone in sequence from inside to outside, the sources of the surface hydrophobicized zinc oxide in the examples 1 and 4 are different, the surface hydrophobicized zinc oxide in the example 1 is obtained from advanced chemistry, trade name ZnO-NAS, the surface is subjected to silicone treatment, the average particle size is 40nm, and the specific surface area is 19-23m 2 Per g, example 4 surface hydrophobically treated Zinc oxide from advanced chemistry, brands ZnO-UFAS, surface treated with Silicone, average particle size 25nm, specific surface area 35-40m 2 Per g, isononyl isononanoate CAS number 42131-25-9, polydimethylsiloxane from guangzhou day oil technologies, model KF-6017, caprylic/capric triglyceride from delphinium, cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose from lein, model Natrosol Plus 330, having hydrophobicity, containing unbranched long-chain alkanes of carbon number=16, polyacrylate crosslinked polymer-6 from seebeck, model SEPIMAX ZEN, sphingomonas fermentation product extract from kelon-cart, model kelon-cart TM Diu tan Gum, polyhydroxy stearic acid was purchased from Innospec Ltd, england, model Dispersun DSP-OL100, tocopherol was purchased from the hope, and disodium EDTA was purchased from Ackesu, netherlands.
Example 1
The example provides a cosmetic composition, the raw materials of which are divided into an A phase, a B phase and a C phase, and the A phase, the B phase and the C phase respectively comprise, in parts by weight:
phase A: 35 parts of a surface-hydrophobically treated physical sunscreen agent, 16 parts of an oil component and 0.4 part of a dispersant (specifically polyhydroxystearic acid);
the physical sun-screening agent with the surface being subjected to hydrophobic treatment comprises titanium dioxide with the surface being subjected to hydrophobic treatment and zinc oxide with the surface being subjected to hydrophobic treatment, wherein the weight ratio of the titanium dioxide with the surface being subjected to hydrophobic treatment to the zinc oxide with the surface being 15:20, a step of; the oil is divided into isononyl isononanoate, polydimethylsiloxane and caprylic/capric triglyceride, and the weight ratio of isononyl isononanoate, polydimethylsiloxane and caprylic/capric triglyceride is 5:8:3, a step of;
and B phase: 0.05 part of chelating agent (specifically disodium EDTA), 0.9 part of alkyl modified cellulose, 0.5 part of salt-tolerant thickener, 43.8 parts of water, 3 parts of humectant (specifically 1, 3-butanediol) and 0.05 part of antioxidant (specifically tocopherol);
the alkyl modified cellulose is cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose; the salt-tolerant thickener is a high molecular copolymer, and the high molecular polymer is polyacrylate crosslinked polymer-6.
And C phase: 0.3 parts of preservative (specifically phenoxyethanol).
The preparation method of the cosmetic composition comprises the following steps: (1) primary mixing: mixing the phase B raw materials at 25 ℃, adding the phase A raw materials into the phase B, and stirring; (2) secondary mixing: at 25 ℃, adding a C-phase raw material into the substances after primary mixing.
Example 2
The example provides a cosmetic composition, the raw materials of which are divided into an A phase, a B phase and a C phase, and the A phase, the B phase and the C phase respectively comprise, in parts by weight:
phase A: 25 parts of a surface-hydrophobically treated physical sunscreen agent, 16 parts of an oil component and 0.2 part of a dispersant (in particular polyhydroxystearic acid);
the physical sun-screening agent with the surface being subjected to hydrophobic treatment comprises titanium dioxide with the surface being subjected to hydrophobic treatment and zinc oxide with the surface being subjected to hydrophobic treatment, wherein the weight ratio of the titanium dioxide with the surface being subjected to hydrophobic treatment to the zinc oxide with the surface being 10:15; the oil is divided into isononyl isononanoate, polydimethylsiloxane and caprylic/capric triglyceride, and the weight ratio of isononyl isononanoate, polydimethylsiloxane and caprylic/capric triglyceride is 5:8:3, a step of;
and B phase: 0.05 parts of chelating agent (specifically disodium EDTA), 0.5 parts of alkyl modified cellulose, 0.6 parts of salt-tolerant thickener, 54.3 parts of water, 3 parts of humectant (specifically 1, 3-butanediol), and 0.05 parts of antioxidant (specifically tocopherol);
the alkyl modified cellulose is cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose; the salt-tolerant thickener is a fermentation product extract, and the fermentation product extract is a Sphingomonas fermentation product extract.
And C phase: 0.3 parts of preservative (particularly phenoxyethanol);
the preparation method of the cosmetic composition comprises the following steps: (1) primary mixing: mixing the phase B raw materials at 25 ℃, adding the phase A raw materials into the phase B, and stirring; (2) secondary mixing: at 25 ℃, adding a C-phase raw material into the substances after primary mixing.
Example 3
The example provides a cosmetic composition, the raw materials of which are divided into an A phase, a B phase and a C phase, and the A phase, the B phase and the C phase respectively comprise, in parts by weight:
phase A: 25 parts of a surface-hydrophobically treated physical sunscreen agent, 16 parts of an oil component and 0.2 part of a dispersant (in particular polyhydroxystearic acid);
the physical sun-screening agent with the surface being subjected to hydrophobic treatment comprises titanium dioxide with the surface being subjected to hydrophobic treatment and zinc oxide with the surface being subjected to hydrophobic treatment, wherein the weight ratio of the titanium dioxide with the surface being subjected to hydrophobic treatment to the zinc oxide with the surface being 10:15; the oil is divided into isononyl isononanoate, polydimethylsiloxane and caprylic/capric triglyceride, and the weight ratio of isononyl isononanoate, polydimethylsiloxane and caprylic/capric triglyceride is 5:8:3, a step of; and B phase: 0.05 part of chelating agent (specifically disodium EDTA), 0.5 part of alkyl modified cellulose, 1 part of salt-tolerant thickener, 53.9 parts of water, 3 parts of humectant (specifically 1, 3-butanediol) and 0.05 part of antioxidant (specifically tocopherol);
the alkyl modified cellulose is cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose; the salt-tolerant thickener is a high molecular copolymer, and the high molecular polymer is polyacrylate crosslinked polymer-6.
And C phase: 0.3 parts of preservative (particularly phenoxyethanol);
the preparation method of the cosmetic composition comprises the following steps: (1) primary mixing: mixing the phase B raw materials at 25 ℃, adding the phase A raw materials into the phase B, and stirring; (2) secondary mixing: at 25 ℃, adding a C-phase raw material into the substances after primary mixing.
Comparative example 1
This example provides a cosmetic composition, differing from example 1 in that the source of the surface-hydrophobically treated zinc oxide is different, and the physical sunscreen agent for surface-hydrophobically treatment comprises surface-hydrophobically treated titanium dioxide and surface-hydrophobically treated zinc oxide in a weight ratio of 12:21.
comparative example 2
This example provides a cosmetic composition, differing from example 1 in phase a: 35 parts of a surface-hydrophobically treated physical sunscreen agent, 16 parts of an oil component and 0.05 part of a dispersant (in particular polyhydroxystearic acid).
And B phase: 1.3 parts of alkyl modified cellulose, 0.5 part of salt-tolerant thickener, 0.05 part of chelating agent (specifically disodium EDTA), 43.8 parts of water, 3 parts of humectant (specifically 1, 3-butanediol) and 0.05 part of antioxidant (specifically tocopherol).
Comparative example 3
This example provides a cosmetic composition, differing from example 3 in phase a: 25 parts of a surface-hydrophobically treated physical sunscreen agent, 16 parts of an oil component and 0.2 part of a dispersing agent.
And B phase: 0.1 part of alkyl modified cellulose, 1.6 parts of salt-tolerant thickener, 0.05 part of chelating agent (specifically disodium EDTA), 43.8 parts of water, 3 parts of humectant (specifically 1, 3-butanediol) and 0.05 part of antioxidant (specifically tocopherol).
Performance test:
1. stability test: the cosmetic compositions obtained in examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 3 were left standing at 38℃and 50% humidity for 30 days, respectively, and then the appearance after 3 days and after 30 days was observed, and the results were shown in Table 1:
TABLE 1
2. UVA and UVB defensive ability test: the cosmetic compositions obtained in examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 3 were tested using a sun protection factor analyzer, SPF indicates the number of sun protection effects against UVB damage, and a number of "+" indicates a better anti-UVA effect, and the results are shown in Table 2:
TABLE 2
| Examples | UVA and UVB defenses |
| Example 1 | SPF45.9，PA++++ |
| Example 2 | SPF31.2，PA+++ |
| Example 3 | SPF31.2，PA+++ |
| Comparative example 1 | SPF39.8，PA+++ |
| Comparative example 2 | SPF37.2，PA+++ |
| Comparative example 3 | SPF27.6，PA+++ |
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Citations (6)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US20020022007A1 (en) * | 1998-09-18 | 2002-02-21 | Heinrich Gers-Barlag | Emulsifier-free finely disperse systems of the oil-in-water and water-in-oil type |
| US20020068073A1 (en) * | 1998-09-18 | 2002-06-06 | Heinich Gers-Barlag | Emulsifier-free finely disperse systems of the oil-in-water and water-in-oil type |
| US20020146443A1 (en) * | 1998-09-18 | 2002-10-10 | Heinrich Gers-Barlag | Emulsifier-free finely disperse systems of the oil-in-water and water-in-oil type |
| WO2007017179A1 (en) * | 2005-08-05 | 2007-02-15 | Dsm Ip Assets B.V. | Use of ionic uv-a sunscreens |
| JP2015120682A (en) * | 2013-11-19 | 2015-07-02 | 株式会社 資生堂 | Oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic |
| CN109512684A (en) * | 2018-12-29 | 2019-03-26 | 浙江大学华南工业技术研究院 | A kind of high-content titanium dioxide or the sun-screening agent of zinc oxide and preparation method thereof |
-
2022
- 2022-08-16 CN CN202210983526.0A patent/CN116019727A/en active Pending
Patent Citations (6)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US20020022007A1 (en) * | 1998-09-18 | 2002-02-21 | Heinrich Gers-Barlag | Emulsifier-free finely disperse systems of the oil-in-water and water-in-oil type |
| US20020068073A1 (en) * | 1998-09-18 | 2002-06-06 | Heinich Gers-Barlag | Emulsifier-free finely disperse systems of the oil-in-water and water-in-oil type |
| US20020146443A1 (en) * | 1998-09-18 | 2002-10-10 | Heinrich Gers-Barlag | Emulsifier-free finely disperse systems of the oil-in-water and water-in-oil type |
| WO2007017179A1 (en) * | 2005-08-05 | 2007-02-15 | Dsm Ip Assets B.V. | Use of ionic uv-a sunscreens |
| JP2015120682A (en) * | 2013-11-19 | 2015-07-02 | 株式会社 資生堂 | Oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic |
| CN109512684A (en) * | 2018-12-29 | 2019-03-26 | 浙江大学华南工业技术研究院 | A kind of high-content titanium dioxide or the sun-screening agent of zinc oxide and preparation method thereof |
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Application publication date: 20230428 |