CN121473137B - A pilling-resistant wool Tencel fabric and its preparation method - Google Patents
A pilling-resistant wool Tencel fabric and its preparation methodInfo
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- CN121473137B CN121473137B CN202610009655.8A CN202610009655A CN121473137B CN 121473137 B CN121473137 B CN 121473137B CN 202610009655 A CN202610009655 A CN 202610009655A CN 121473137 B CN121473137 B CN 121473137B
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Abstract
The invention belongs to the technical field of textile fabrics, and particularly relates to an anti-pilling wool and tencel fabric and a preparation method thereof, wherein the anti-pilling wool and tencel fabric comprises a core layer fiber raw material, a sheath layer fiber raw material, a composite biological enzyme finishing liquid and a composite crosslinking finishing liquid, wherein the core layer fiber raw material comprises 40-60 parts of wool fibers, 30-50 parts of tencel fibers and 5-15 parts of polyester fibers with special-shaped cross sections, the sheath layer fiber raw material comprises 20-40 parts of wool fibers and 50-80 parts of tencel fibers, the anti-pilling wool fibers are isolated through a core-sheath structure, migration and slipping of the fibers are reduced through supporting action of an inner framework, and in the finishing process, a water washing step after enzyme treatment is omitted, an ideal surface state of the fibers is reserved to strengthen a crosslinking effect, and a microwave curing technology is matched to ensure uniform and compact combination, so that a long-acting anti-pilling protection is formed.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of textile fabrics, and particularly relates to an anti-pilling wool and tencel fabric and a preparation method thereof.
Background
The wool and tencel blended fabric has the natural advantages of wool of warmth retention, elasticity, smoothness of the tencel, moisture absorption, ventilation and the like, is widely applied to the fields of high-end clothes, home textiles and the like, and becomes one of the main stream fabrics meeting the requirements of modern consumers on high-quality textile products. However, the blended fabric has a prominent technical problem of pilling in the actual wearing and use process, and the market value and the service life of the blended fabric are severely restricted. When the wool fibers and the tencel fibers are combined, the surface of the fabric is extremely easy to form hair balls, the hair balls are difficult to fall off, the wearing times and the washing times are increased obviously, the appearance cleanliness of the fabric is damaged, and the wearing comfort and the durability of the fabric are reduced.
In order to solve the pilling problem, the prior art adopts a simple blending mode of wool, tencel and other fibers to try to improve cohesion through physical interweaving among the fibers, however, the irregular mixing mode is easy to cause mutual interference of functions of different fibers, a targeted pilling resistant protective structure cannot be formed, and natural excellent characteristics of the wool and the tencel can be damaged. In addition, the hot air curing mode commonly used in the prior art has the problem of uneven heating, and is easy to cause excessive or insufficient local crosslinking of the finishing agent, thereby further aggravating unbalanced performance of the fabric. Therefore, the development of the wool and tencel fabric which can radically solve the pilling problem and has multiple excellent performances is a subject to be broken through in the textile field.
Disclosure of Invention
Aiming at the defects of the prior art, the invention provides an anti-pilling wool and tencel fabric and a preparation method thereof, wherein the core-sheath partition design is adopted at the yarn level to realize accurate layout of different functional fibers, slippage and winding of the fibers are reduced from the source, the synergistic effect of composite biological enzyme treatment and composite crosslinking finishing is adopted in the finishing process, the water washing step after enzyme treatment is omitted, the ideal surface state of the fibers is reserved to strengthen the crosslinking effect, the uniform and compact combination of finishing agents is ensured by matching with the microwave curing technology, and finally the omnibearing and long-acting anti-pilling protection is formed. Solves the technical problems that the existing wool and tencel blended fabric is easy to pill, has poor anti-pill effect and long-lasting effect, and is difficult to consider anti-pill finishing and fabric comfort, wear resistance and air permeability.
In order to achieve the technical purpose, the technical scheme adopted by the invention is as follows:
The invention provides an anti-pilling wool and tencel fabric, which comprises a core layer fiber raw material, a sheath layer fiber raw material, a composite biological enzyme finishing liquid and a composite crosslinking finishing liquid, wherein the core layer fiber raw material comprises 40-60 parts of wool fibers, 30-50 parts of tencel fibers and 5-15 parts of profiled-section polyester fibers, and the sheath layer fiber raw material comprises 20-40 parts of wool fibers and 50-80 parts of tencel fibers;
preferably, the profiled-section polyester fiber is at least one of a triangular-section polyester fiber, a cross-section polyester fiber and a trilobal-section polyester fiber.
Further, the preparation of the composite biological enzyme finishing liquid comprises the steps of adding 3.0 mass percent of composite biological enzyme and 1.5 mass percent of modified nanocellulose into an acetic acid-sodium acetate buffer solution with the pH value of 5.5, and uniformly mixing through mechanical stirring to form the composite biological enzyme finishing liquid.
Further, the composite biological enzyme consists of cellulase and protease, and the mass ratio of the cellulase to the protease is 3:1.
Further, the preparation of the composite crosslinking finishing liquid comprises the steps of mixing 8% by mass of aqueous polyurethane with 1.0% by mass of graphene oxide aqueous dispersion, mechanically stirring for 30min, slowly adding 3.0% by mass of modified nanocellulose under continuous stirring, and continuously stirring for 60-90 min to obtain the composite crosslinking finishing liquid.
Further, the preparation process of the modified nanocellulose is as follows:
i. Weighing nano cellulose solid, dispersing the nano cellulose solid in anhydrous DMF (N, N-dimethylformamide), wherein the dosage ratio of the nano cellulose solid to the anhydrous DMF is 1g to 50mL, dispersing the nano cellulose solid in a water bath at 60 ℃ at a mechanical stirring speed of 500rpm for 2h to form uniform nano cellulose suspension, adding 4-dimethylaminopyridine into the suspension, and continuously stirring the suspension for 30 minutes at 60 ℃ to fully mix the nano cellulose solid and the anhydrous DMF to form a reaction system;
And ii, slowly dropwise adding acetic anhydride into a reaction system by using a constant-pressure dropping funnel, controlling the dropwise adding rate, after the dropwise adding is completed within 1h, then, raising the reaction temperature to 80 ℃, continuously refluxing under the protection of nitrogen for 4h, cooling to room temperature after the reaction is completed, centrifugally washing until the supernatant is neutral and has no acetic acid taste, so as to ensure that unreacted acetic anhydride, catalyst and byproduct acetic acid are thoroughly removed, re-dispersing the washed precipitate in absolute ethyl alcohol, and then, freeze-drying 48 h to obtain the modified nanocellulose.
Further, the dosage ratio of the nanocellulose, the 4-dimethylaminopyridine and the acetic anhydride is 5g to 1g to 1.5mL.
The invention also provides a preparation method of the anti-pilling wool tencel fabric, which comprises the following steps:
s1, preparing core layer fibers and sheath layer fibers, namely fully mixing core layer fiber raw materials on an opener to form core layer fibers, and mixing the sheath layer fiber raw materials, wherein wool fibers are subjected to soft protease pretreatment in advance to preliminarily soften scales to form the sheath layer fibers;
S2, respectively preparing the core layer fiber and the sheath layer fiber, namely respectively carrying out blowing, cotton carding and drawing procedures on the mixed core layer fiber and the mixed sheath layer fiber to prepare a core layer raw strip and a sheath layer raw strip;
S3, spinning the core-sheath structure yarn by adopting a Sirofil spinning technology on an FA506 type spinning frame, spinning the core layer raw bar serving as a core part of the yarn and the sheath layer raw bar serving as a sheath part of the yarn, and controlling the final yarn count to be 40-60 Ing by adjusting process parameters;
S4, weaving and pre-treating, namely weaving the prepared core-sheath structure yarns serving as warp yarns and weft yarns into a required plain weave, twill weave or satin weave on an air jet loom, desizing, scouring and other conventional parts of the grey cloth in hot water at 60 ℃, removing oiling agents and sizing agents added in the spinning and weaving processes, and then washing to be neutral to obtain a pre-treated fabric;
S5, biological enzyme polishing treatment, namely immersing the pretreated fabric in a composite biological enzyme finishing liquid, wherein the bath ratio is 1:15-25, mechanically treating the fabric at 50 ℃ for 45 min, directly taking out the fabric after enzyme treatment, uniformly rolling the fabric, controlling the liquid carrying rate to be 100%, forming the rolled fabric, immediately entering the next finishing process, and washing the fabric without water in the middle;
S6, carrying out microwave curing to obtain the anti-pilling wool and tencel fabric, namely immersing the rolled fabric in the composite cross-linking finishing liquid, then rolling the fabric by a rolling mill under the pressure of 0.3MPa, controlling the liquid carrying rate to be 70-80%, placing the padded fabric in a microwave drying and shaping machine, treating the fabric at 105 ℃ for 3 min to complete curing, carrying out tentering shaping on the cured fabric at 130 ℃, then treating the fabric by a pre-shrinking machine, and finally carrying out inspection and packaging to obtain the anti-pilling wool and tencel fabric.
Further, the pretreatment process of the protease comprises the steps of immersing wool fibers in pretreatment liquid consisting of 1.0-2.0% of neutral protease, 1.5-3.0% of fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene ether and buffer solution with pH of 6.5-7.5, controlling bath ratio to be 1:15-25, slowly stirring at 45-50 ℃ for 30-45 min, then heating to 80-85 ℃ and keeping for 10min to inactivate enzyme, and finally washing and drying with warm water.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following beneficial effects:
The invention adopts the yarn structure with the core and the sheath being partitioned, thereby realizing the accurate adaptation of the fiber function. The core layer forms a stable supporting framework through combination of specific fibers, relative sliding and winding of the fibers in the yarn are reduced by means of low friction characteristics of the fibers with special-shaped cross sections, internal inducement of generation of fuzzing is restrained from the root, the sheath layer takes wool and tencel matched in an optimized proportion as a main body, the thermal elasticity of the wool and the smooth texture of the tencel are reserved, and the pretreated wool scales are more suitable for a subsequent finishing process, so that smooth interfaces which are not easy to fuzzing are formed on the surface of the fabric. The biological enzyme polishing treatment realizes the surface polishing of tencel and the warm and etching of wool scales through the precise collocation of cellulase and protease, and simultaneously introduces surface acetylation modified nanocellulose, so that the cohesion between fibers is enhanced while the fiber surface is softened, and the fiber damage possibly caused by single enzyme treatment is avoided. On the other hand, the water washing step after enzyme treatment is omitted, so that the production link and water resource consumption are reduced, the ideal surface state of the fiber after enzymolysis is reserved, the residual active ingredients become a bridge for subsequent crosslinking, and the crosslinking bonding degree is greatly improved. The waterborne polyurethane in the composite crosslinking finishing liquid can be used as a film forming main body to firmly anchor the fiber end, the graphene oxide enhances the wear resistance and the stability of the crosslinking film by virtue of a special structure, the acetylated modified nanocellulose effectively neutralizes the stiffness caused by the resin, and the microporous film formed by the three components can lock the smooth fiber surface after enzyme treatment and has good elasticity and air permeability. The microwave curing technology is adopted, the body heating characteristic of the finishing liquid is utilized to synchronously crosslink the surface from the inside of the fiber, so that the formed crosslinked film is uniform and compact, meanwhile, the high efficiency of microwave curing can shorten the curing time, reduce the energy consumption, and the mild heating mode can furthest reserve the natural soft characteristic of wool and tencel, so that the damage to the fiber caused by high temperature is avoided. The anti-pilling wool and tencel fabric prepared finally has long-acting stable anti-pilling capability, fully retains the warmth retention property of wool and the skin-friendly property of tencel, and has the strength and the dimensional stability which are not influenced by anti-pilling finishing.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a flow chart of a preparation method of the anti-pilling wool and tencel fabric of the invention;
Fig. 2 is a fabric appearance diagram of the anti-pilling wool tencel fabric prepared by the invention.
Detailed Description
The technical solutions of the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below with reference to the accompanying drawings of the embodiments of the present invention, and it is apparent that the described embodiments are only some embodiments of the present invention, but not all embodiments, and all other embodiments obtained by those skilled in the art without making any inventive effort based on the embodiments of the present invention are within the scope of protection of the present invention.
According to the preparation method flow chart of the anti-pilling wool and tencel fabric, as shown in fig. 1, the following example is carried out:
The embodiment 1 provides an anti-pilling wool and tencel fabric, which comprises a core layer fiber raw material, a sheath layer fiber raw material, a composite biological enzyme finishing liquid and a composite crosslinking finishing liquid, wherein the core layer fiber raw material comprises 40 parts of wool fibers, 30 parts of tencel fibers and 5 parts of polyester fibers with triangular cross sections, and the sheath layer fiber raw material comprises 20 parts of wool fibers and 50 parts of tencel fibers;
the preparation of the composite biological enzyme finishing liquid comprises the steps of adding 3.0 mass percent of composite biological enzyme and 1.5 mass percent of modified nanocellulose into an acetic acid-sodium acetate buffer solution with the pH value of 5.5, and uniformly mixing through mechanical stirring to form the composite biological enzyme finishing liquid.
The composite biological enzyme consists of cellulase and protease, and the mass ratio of the cellulase to the protease is 3:1.
The preparation of the composite crosslinking finishing liquid comprises the steps of mixing 8% by mass of aqueous polyurethane with 1.0% by mass of graphene oxide aqueous dispersion liquid, mechanically stirring at the rotating speed of 300rpm for 30min, slowly adding 3.0% by mass of modified nanocellulose under continuous stirring, and continuously stirring for 60min to obtain the composite crosslinking finishing liquid.
The preparation process of the modified nanocellulose comprises the following steps:
i. weighing nano cellulose solid, dispersing the nano cellulose solid in anhydrous DMF (dimethyl formamide), wherein the dosage ratio of the nano cellulose solid to the anhydrous DMF is 1g to 50mL, dispersing the nano cellulose solid to the anhydrous DMF at a mechanical stirring speed of 500rpm in a 60 ℃ water bath for 2h to form uniform nano cellulose suspension, adding 4-dimethylaminopyridine into the suspension, wherein the dosage ratio of the nano cellulose, 4-dimethylaminopyridine to acetic anhydride is 5g to 1g to 1.5mL, and continuously stirring the mixture at 60 ℃ for 30 min to fully mix the mixture to form a reaction system;
And ii, slowly dropwise adding acetic anhydride into a reaction system by using a constant-pressure dropping funnel, controlling the dropwise adding rate, after the dropwise adding is finished within 1 h, then, raising the reaction temperature to 80 ℃, continuously refluxing under the protection of nitrogen for 4 hours, cooling to room temperature after the reaction is finished, repeatedly centrifuging and washing a reaction product by using a large amount of absolute ethyl alcohol, centrifuging at a speed of 10000 rpm for a time of 15 min until the supernatant is neutral and has no acetic acid taste, so as to ensure that unreacted acetic anhydride, a catalyst and by-product acetic acid are thoroughly removed, re-dispersing the washed precipitate in the absolute ethyl alcohol, wherein the dosage ratio of the precipitate to the absolute ethyl alcohol is 1 g:5 mL, pre-freezing at 50 ℃ by a freeze drying technology, and then drying 48h under the vacuum of-50 ℃ and 10 Pa to obtain loose and porous modified nano cellulose.
The embodiment also provides a preparation method of the anti-pilling wool and tencel fabric, which specifically comprises the following steps:
S1, preparing core layer fiber and sheath layer fiber, namely fully mixing core layer fiber raw materials (40 parts of wool fiber, 30 parts of tencel fiber and 5 parts of triangular section polyester fiber) on an opener to form uniform core layer fiber, weighing sheath layer fiber raw materials (20 parts of wool fiber and 50 parts of tencel fiber), fully mixing on the opener, wherein the wool fiber is subjected to soft protease pretreatment in advance to preliminarily soften scales, and forming the sheath layer fiber;
S2, respectively preparing the core layer fiber and the sheath layer fiber, namely respectively carrying out blowing, cotton carding and drawing procedures on the mixed core layer fiber and the mixed sheath layer fiber to prepare a core layer raw strip and a sheath layer raw strip;
S3, spinning the core-sheath structure yarn by adopting a Sirofil spinning technology on an FA506 type spinning frame, spinning the core layer raw bar serving as a core part of the yarn and the sheath layer raw bar serving as a sheath part of the yarn, and controlling the final yarn count to be 40 inches;
S4, weaving and pre-treating, namely weaving the prepared core-sheath structure yarns serving as warp yarns and weft yarns into a required plain weave, twill weave or satin weave on an air jet loom, desizing, scouring and other conventional parts of the grey cloth in hot water at 60 ℃, removing oiling agents and sizing agents added in the spinning and weaving processes, and then washing to be neutral to obtain a pre-treated fabric;
S5, biological enzyme polishing treatment, namely immersing the pretreated fabric in a composite biological enzyme finishing liquid, wherein the bath ratio is 1:15, carrying out mechanical rotation treatment at 50 ℃ for 45min at 30rpm, directly taking out the fabric after enzyme treatment, uniformly rolling the fabric, controlling the liquid carrying rate to be 100%, forming the rolled fabric, immediately entering the next finishing process, and washing the middle part without water;
S6, performing microwave curing to obtain the anti-pilling wool and tencel fabric, namely immersing the rolled fabric in the composite crosslinking finishing liquid, controlling the bath ratio to be 1:15, rolling by a padder under the pressure of 0.3MPa, controlling the liquid carrying rate to be 70%, placing the padded fabric in a microwave drying setting machine, processing for 3 minutes at 105 ℃, completing curing, tentering and setting the cured fabric at 130 ℃, processing by a pre-shrinking machine, and finally inspecting and packaging to obtain the anti-pilling wool and tencel fabric.
The protease pretreatment process comprises the steps of immersing wool fibers in pretreatment liquid consisting of 1.0% of neutral protease, 1.5% of fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene ether and buffer solution with pH of 6.5, controlling bath ratio to be 1:15, slowly stirring at 45 ℃ for 30min, then heating to 80 ℃ and keeping at 10 min to inactivate enzymes, and finally washing with warm water and drying.
The embodiment 2 provides an anti-pilling wool and tencel fabric, which comprises a core layer fiber raw material, a sheath layer fiber raw material, a composite biological enzyme finishing liquid and a composite crosslinking finishing liquid, wherein the core layer fiber raw material comprises 50 parts of wool fibers, 40 parts of tencel fibers and 10 parts of cross-section polyester fibers, and the sheath layer fiber raw material comprises 30 parts of wool fibers and 65 parts of tencel fibers;
the preparation of the composite biological enzyme finishing liquid comprises the steps of adding 3.0 mass percent of composite biological enzyme and 1.5 mass percent of modified nanocellulose into an acetic acid-sodium acetate buffer solution with the pH value of 5.5, and uniformly mixing through mechanical stirring to form the composite biological enzyme finishing liquid.
The composite biological enzyme consists of cellulase and protease, and the mass ratio of the cellulase to the protease is 3:1.
The preparation of the composite crosslinking finishing liquid comprises the steps of mixing 8% by mass of aqueous polyurethane with 1.0% by mass of graphene oxide aqueous dispersion liquid, mechanically stirring at the rotating speed of 400 rpm for 30 min, slowly adding 3.0% by mass of modified nanocellulose under continuous stirring, and continuously stirring for 75 min to obtain the composite crosslinking finishing liquid.
The preparation process of the modified nanocellulose comprises the following steps:
i. weighing nano cellulose solid, dispersing the nano cellulose solid in anhydrous DMF (dimethyl formamide), wherein the dosage ratio of the nano cellulose solid to the anhydrous DMF is 1g to 50mL, dispersing the nano cellulose solid to the anhydrous DMF at a mechanical stirring speed of 500rpm in a 60 ℃ water bath for 2h to form uniform nano cellulose suspension, adding 4-dimethylaminopyridine into the suspension, wherein the dosage ratio of the nano cellulose, 4-dimethylaminopyridine to acetic anhydride is 5g to 1g to 1.5mL, and continuously stirring the mixture at 60 ℃ for 30 min to fully mix the mixture to form a reaction system;
And ii, slowly dropwise adding acetic anhydride into a reaction system by using a constant-pressure dropping funnel, controlling the dropwise adding rate, after the dropwise adding is finished within 1 h, then, raising the reaction temperature to 80 ℃, continuously refluxing under the protection of nitrogen for 4 hours, cooling to room temperature after the reaction is finished, repeatedly centrifuging and washing a reaction product by using a large amount of absolute ethyl alcohol, centrifuging at a speed of 10000 rpm for a time of 15 min until the supernatant is neutral and has no acetic acid taste, so as to ensure that unreacted acetic anhydride, a catalyst and by-product acetic acid are thoroughly removed, re-dispersing the washed precipitate in the absolute ethyl alcohol, wherein the dosage ratio of the precipitate to the absolute ethyl alcohol is 1 g to 8mL, pre-freezing at 50 ℃ by a freeze drying technology, and then drying 48h under the vacuum of-50 ℃ and 10 Pa to obtain loose and porous modified nano cellulose.
The embodiment also provides a preparation method of the anti-pilling wool and tencel fabric, which specifically comprises the following steps:
S1, preparing core layer fibers and sheath layer fibers, namely fully mixing core layer fiber raw materials (50 parts of wool fibers, 40 parts of tencel fibers and 10 parts of cross-section polyester fibers) on an opener to form core layer fibers, weighing sheath layer fiber raw materials (30 parts of wool fibers and 65 parts of tencel fibers) and uniformly mixing on the opener, wherein the wool fibers are subjected to soft protease pretreatment in advance to preliminarily soften scales, so as to form the sheath layer fibers;
S2, respectively preparing the core layer fiber and the sheath layer fiber, namely respectively carrying out blowing, cotton carding and drawing procedures on the mixed core layer fiber and the mixed sheath layer fiber to prepare a core layer raw strip and a sheath layer raw strip;
S3, spinning the core-sheath structure yarn by adopting a Sirofil spinning technology on an FA506 type spinning frame, spinning the core layer raw bar serving as a core part of the yarn and the sheath layer raw bar serving as a sheath part of the yarn, and controlling the final yarn count to be 50 Ing by adjusting process parameters;
S4, weaving and pre-treating, namely weaving the prepared core-sheath structure yarns serving as warp yarns and weft yarns into a required plain weave, twill weave or satin weave on an air jet loom, desizing, scouring and other conventional parts of the grey cloth in hot water at 60 ℃, removing oiling agents and sizing agents added in the spinning and weaving processes, and then washing to be neutral to obtain a pre-treated fabric;
s5, biological enzyme polishing treatment, namely immersing the pretreated fabric in a composite biological enzyme finishing liquid, treating the fabric with a bath ratio of 1:20 at 50 ℃ by using mechanical rotation of 30 rpm for 45 min, directly taking out the fabric after enzyme treatment, uniformly rolling the fabric, controlling the liquid carrying rate to be 100%, forming the rolled fabric, immediately entering the next finishing process, and washing the middle part without water;
S6, performing microwave curing to obtain the anti-pilling wool and tencel fabric, namely immersing the rolled fabric in the composite crosslinking finishing liquid, wherein the bath ratio is 1:20, rolling by a padder under the pressure of 0.3MPa, controlling the liquid carrying rate to be 78%, placing the padded fabric in a microwave drying setting machine, treating for 3 minutes at 105 ℃, completing curing, tentering and setting the cured fabric at 130 ℃, then treating by a preshrinking machine, and finally inspecting and packaging to obtain the anti-pilling wool and tencel fabric.
The pretreatment process of the protease comprises the steps of immersing wool fibers in pretreatment liquid consisting of 1.5% of neutral protease, 2.0% of fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene ether and buffer solution with pH of 7, controlling bath ratio to be 1:20, slowly stirring at 50 ℃ for 45min, then heating to 85 ℃ and keeping for 10min to inactivate enzymes, and finally washing with warm water and drying.
The embodiment 3 provides an anti-pilling wool and tencel fabric, which comprises a core layer fiber raw material, a sheath layer fiber raw material, a composite biological enzyme finishing liquid and a composite crosslinking finishing liquid, wherein the core layer fiber raw material comprises 60 parts of wool fibers, 50 parts of tencel fibers and 15 parts of polyester fibers with a trilobal section, and the sheath layer fiber raw material comprises 40 parts of wool fibers and 80 parts of tencel fibers;
the preparation of the composite biological enzyme finishing liquid comprises the steps of adding 3.0 mass percent of composite biological enzyme and 1.5 mass percent of modified nanocellulose into an acetic acid-sodium acetate buffer solution with the pH value of 5.5, and uniformly mixing through mechanical stirring to form the composite biological enzyme finishing liquid.
The composite biological enzyme consists of cellulase and protease, and the mass ratio of the cellulase to the protease is 3:1.
The preparation of the composite crosslinking finishing liquid comprises the steps of mixing 8% by mass of aqueous polyurethane with 1.0% by mass of graphene oxide aqueous dispersion liquid, mechanically stirring at a rotating speed of 500 rpm for 30 min, slowly adding 3.0% by mass of modified nanocellulose under continuous stirring, and continuously stirring for 90 min to obtain the composite crosslinking finishing liquid.
The preparation process of the modified nanocellulose comprises the following steps:
i. weighing nano cellulose solid, dispersing the nano cellulose solid in anhydrous DMF (dimethyl formamide), wherein the dosage ratio of the nano cellulose solid to the anhydrous DMF is 1g to 50mL, dispersing the nano cellulose solid to the anhydrous DMF at a mechanical stirring speed of 500rpm in a 60 ℃ water bath for 2h to form uniform nano cellulose suspension, adding 4-dimethylaminopyridine into the suspension, wherein the dosage ratio of the nano cellulose, 4-dimethylaminopyridine to acetic anhydride is 5g to 1g to 1.5mL, and continuously stirring the mixture at 60 ℃ for 30 min to fully mix the mixture to form a reaction system;
And ii, slowly dropwise adding acetic anhydride into a reaction system by using a constant-pressure dropping funnel, controlling the dropwise adding rate, after the dropwise adding is finished within 1 h, then, raising the reaction temperature to 80 ℃, continuously refluxing under the protection of nitrogen for 4 hours, cooling to room temperature after the reaction is finished, repeatedly centrifuging and washing a reaction product by using a large amount of absolute ethyl alcohol, centrifuging at a speed of 10000rpm for a time of 15 min until the supernatant is neutral and has no acetic acid taste, so as to ensure that unreacted acetic anhydride, a catalyst and by-product acetic acid are thoroughly removed, re-dispersing the washed precipitate in the absolute ethyl alcohol, wherein the dosage ratio of the precipitate to the absolute ethyl alcohol is 1g to 10mL, pre-freezing at 50 ℃ by a freeze drying technology, and then drying 48 h under the vacuum of-50 ℃ and 10 Pa to obtain loose and porous modified nano cellulose.
The embodiment also provides a preparation method of the anti-pilling wool and tencel fabric, which specifically comprises the following steps:
S1, preparing core layer fibers and sheath layer fibers, namely fully mixing core layer fiber raw materials (60 parts of wool fibers, 50 parts of tencel fibers and 15 parts of trilobal section polyester fibers) on an opener to form core layer fibers, weighing sheath layer fiber raw materials (40 parts of wool fibers and 80 parts of tencel fibers) and uniformly mixing on the opener, wherein the wool fibers are subjected to soft protease pretreatment in advance to primarily soften scales, so that the sheath layer fibers are formed;
S2, respectively preparing the core layer fiber and the sheath layer fiber, namely respectively carrying out blowing, cotton carding and drawing procedures on the mixed core layer fiber and the mixed sheath layer fiber to prepare a core layer raw strip and a sheath layer raw strip;
S3, spinning the core-sheath structure yarn by adopting a Sirofil spinning technology on an FA506 type spinning frame, spinning the core layer raw bar serving as a core part of the yarn and the sheath layer raw bar serving as a sheath part of the yarn, and controlling the final yarn count to be 60 inches;
S4, weaving and pre-treating, namely weaving the prepared core-sheath structure yarns serving as warp yarns and weft yarns into a required plain weave, twill weave or satin weave on an air jet loom, desizing, scouring and other conventional parts of the grey cloth in hot water at 60 ℃, removing oiling agents and sizing agents added in the spinning and weaving processes, and then washing to be neutral to obtain a pre-treated fabric;
S5, biological enzyme polishing treatment, namely immersing the pretreated fabric in a composite biological enzyme finishing liquid, wherein the bath ratio is 1:15, carrying out mechanical rotation treatment at 50 ℃ for 45min at 30rpm, directly taking out the fabric after enzyme treatment, uniformly rolling the fabric, controlling the liquid carrying rate to be 100%, forming the rolled fabric, immediately entering the next finishing process, and washing the middle part without water;
s6, performing microwave curing to obtain the anti-pilling wool and tencel fabric, namely immersing the rolled fabric in the composite crosslinking finishing liquid, wherein the bath ratio is 1:20, rolling by a padder under the pressure of 0.3 MPa, controlling the liquid carrying rate to be 80%, placing the padded fabric in a microwave drying setting machine, processing at 105 ℃ for 3min, completing curing, tentering and setting the cured fabric at 130 ℃, processing by a pre-shrinking machine, and finally inspecting and packaging to obtain the anti-pilling wool and tencel fabric.
The pretreatment process of the protease comprises the steps of immersing wool fibers in pretreatment liquid consisting of 2.0% of neutral protease, 3.0% of fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene ether and buffer solution with pH of 7.5, controlling bath ratio to be 1:25, slowly stirring at 50 ℃ for 45 min, then heating to 85 ℃ and keeping 10 min for inactivating enzyme, and finally washing with warm water and drying.
Comparative example 1 was identical to example 2 except that the design of the core-sheath structure was omitted as compared with example 2.
Comparative example 2 was identical to example 2 except that the addition of MCNF was omitted as compared with example 2.
Comparative example 3 was compared with example 2, the water washing step was added in step S5, and the rest was exactly the same as example 2.
Experimental example:
1. Anti-pilling Property the anti-pilling Property was tested according to Standard GB/T4802.2008 "determination of pilling Property of textile fabrics section 2 modified Martindalv", the anti-pilling Property was tested, and the results were recorded in Table 1 after abrasion for 2000 times in a pilling rating box using the anti-pilling wool tencel fabrics prepared in examples 1 to 3 of the present invention as test samples.
2. Air permeability referring to GB/T5453-1997 "determination of air permeability of textile fabrics", anti-pilling wool and tencel fabrics prepared in examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-3 of the present invention were used as samples, air permeability was determined for the samples, the test area was 20cm 2, the test pressure difference was 100 Pa, and each sample was tested 10 times at different positions, and the average value was obtained.
3. Hairiness test Standard FZ/T01086-2000 projection counting method for textile yarn hairiness test, the anti-pilling wool tencel fabric prepared in examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-3 of the present invention was used as a sample, and a YG172A yarn hairiness tester was used for the test. The test method comprises the steps of setting the test speed of a yarn hairiness meter to be 30m/min, detecting the hairiness quantity in each length within 9mm, setting the hairiness length of the blended yarn to be 3mm, setting the fragment length to be 10m, setting the test times to be 10 times, taking an average value of hairiness indexes, and recording the results in Table 1.
4. Water resistance test referring to AATCC 61-2006 (No. 1A) test method for water resistance, anti-pilling wool and tencel fabrics prepared in examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-3 of the present invention were used as test specimens, the test specimens and 50 standard steel balls were put into 150 mL of 0.15% detergent solution, rotated 45 min at 40℃at 40 rpm speed, then washed with distilled water, and dried 5 min at 60 ℃. The whole process is defined as one washing cycle. The pilling resistance rating was analyzed and the results are reported in Table 1.
5. Abrasion resistance of fabrics according to GB/T21196.2-2007 determination of abrasion resistance of fabrics by Martindale method for textiles. The test conditions were 12kPa pressure and the number of rubs when the fabric had one yarn broken or a hole was formed was recorded.
TABLE 1 anti-pilling wool tencel fabric performance test results table
The results in table 1 show that the anti-pilling wool antenna fabrics prepared in examples 1-3 have excellent anti-pilling performance, and the combination of the anti-pilling wool antenna fabrics with the core-sheath structure prepared in the invention is structurally reduced in pilling core, the supporting framework formed by the low-friction polyester in the core layer reduces the sliding inside the fiber, the smooth fiber treated by the biological enzyme in the sheath layer reduces the surface friction and has good anti-pilling performance, the hairiness index of examples 1-3 is as low as 1.9, the less hairiness is, the fiber is difficult to form the hairiness due to friction winding, and the combination of the comparative examples 1-3 further shows that the preparation method provided by the invention has good anti-pilling effect. The abrasion resistance of examples 1-3 is stabilized at about 45000 times, and far exceeds that of comparative examples 1-3, which shows that the skeleton support of the cross-shaped polyester fiber of the core layer of the invention improves the overall strength of the yarn, and the elastic film formed by the aqueous polyurethane locks the fiber in the composite crosslinking finishing liquid, so that the abrasion resistance of the film is enhanced by graphene oxide, while the comparative examples lack structural support and composite protection, and the fabric is easy to fall off due to abrasion. The air permeability of examples 1-3 is above 420 mm/s, and the comparative examples are relatively low, which shows that the invention not only ensures the anti-pilling and wear-resistant effects, but also gives consideration to the high air permeability of the fabric.
Fig. 2 shows the appearance of the fabric after 2000 times of friction, in which the anti-pilling wool tencel fabric prepared in example 2 and comparative examples 1-3 is flat and smooth, and has no obvious hairball and loose hairiness, while comparative examples 1-3 show pilling phenomena of different degrees, which illustrates that the anti-pilling wool tencel fabric of the invention can effectively resist pilling phenomena generated by friction in the treatment and preparation processes.
In summary, the core-sheath partition is used for reasonably distributing different functional fibers, so that not only is the stable support formed by the core layer to reduce the sliding in the fibers, but also the smooth surface is constructed by the matching and pretreatment of the fibers of the sheath layer, and the foundation is firmly built for the anti-pilling performance from the source. In the finishing process, the industrial convention that water is necessary after enzyme treatment is broken, the ideal surface state and active components of the fiber after enzymolysis are reserved by a jumping process, so that the fiber becomes a natural bridge for subsequent crosslinking, the bonding compactness of the finishing agent and the fiber is greatly improved, meanwhile, the compounded composite biological enzyme and the composite crosslinking system form functional complementation, the fine optimization of the fiber surface is realized, and the protective film with stability and flexibility is formed through the cooperation of multiple components, so that the generation of fuzzing balls is restrained at the tail end of the fiber, and the problem of fabric stiffness caused by a single finishing agent is avoided. Finally, the prepared anti-pilling wool and tencel fabric is excellent in core anti-pilling performance and washing durability, and meanwhile, on the basis of keeping excellent air permeability and wear resistance, the natural comfort characteristics of wool and tencel are completely reserved, so that the contradiction that the anti-pilling performance is difficult to consider with wearing comfort and durability for a long time is broken. In addition, the whole process is suitable for the existing textile production equipment, industrialization can be realized without large-scale transformation, the production threshold is reduced, high-quality fabric can be provided for the field of high-end clothing, the market competitiveness of the product is obviously improved, and a brand new path with both creativity and practicability is provided for anti-pilling modification of the wool and tencel fabric.
The invention and its embodiments have been described above with no limitation, and the invention is illustrated in the figures of the accompanying drawings as one of its embodiments, without limitation in practice. In summary, those skilled in the art, having benefit of this disclosure, will appreciate that the invention can be practiced without the specific details disclosed herein.
Claims (3)
1. The preparation method of the anti-pilling wool tencel fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps of:
S1, preparing core layer fiber and sheath layer fiber, namely fully mixing core layer fiber raw materials to form core layer fiber, and mixing sheath layer fiber raw materials, wherein wool fiber is subjected to protease pretreatment in advance to form sheath layer fiber;
S2, respectively preparing the core layer fiber and the sheath layer fiber, namely respectively carrying out blowing, cotton carding and drawing procedures on the core layer fiber and the sheath layer fiber to prepare a core layer raw strip and a sheath layer raw strip;
s3, spinning the core-sheath structure yarn by adopting a Sirofil spinning technology, wherein a core layer raw strip is used as a core part of the yarn, and a sheath layer raw strip is used as a sheath part of the yarn to spin the core-sheath structure yarn;
s4, weaving and pre-treating, namely weaving the prepared core-sheath structure yarns serving as warp yarns and weft yarns into grey cloth, desizing and scouring the grey cloth, and washing the grey cloth with water to be neutral to obtain a pre-treated fabric;
S5, biological enzyme polishing treatment, namely immersing the pretreated fabric in a composite biological enzyme finishing liquid, performing biological enzyme polishing treatment, directly taking out the fabric after finishing treatment, and uniformly rolling the fabric to form a rolled fabric;
s6, performing microwave curing to obtain anti-pilling wool and tencel fabric, namely immersing the rolled fabric in a composite cross-linking finishing liquid, then rolling, controlling the liquid carrying rate, performing microwave curing, tentering and shaping on the padded fabric, then processing by a pre-shrinking machine, checking and packaging to obtain the anti-pilling wool and tencel fabric;
The core layer fiber raw material comprises 40-60 parts of wool fibers, 30-50 parts of tencel fibers and 5-15 parts of polyester fibers with special-shaped cross sections, and the sheath layer fiber raw material comprises 20-40 parts of wool fibers and 50-80 parts of tencel fibers;
the preparation of the composite biological enzyme finishing liquid comprises the steps of adding 3.0 mass percent of composite biological enzyme and 1.5 mass percent of modified nanocellulose into an acetic acid-sodium acetate buffer solution with the pH value of 5.5, and uniformly mixing through mechanical stirring to form the composite biological enzyme finishing liquid, wherein the composite biological enzyme consists of cellulase and protease according to the mass ratio of 3:1;
The preparation method of the composite crosslinking finishing liquid comprises the steps of stirring and mixing 8% by mass of aqueous polyurethane and 1.0% by mass of graphene oxide aqueous dispersion liquid, slowly adding 3.0% by mass of modified nanocellulose under continuous stirring, and continuously stirring to obtain the composite crosslinking finishing liquid.
2. The method for preparing anti-pilling wool and tencel fabric according to claim 1, wherein in the step S5, the bath ratio of the treated fabric to the composite biological enzyme finishing liquid is 1:15-25.
3. The method for preparing the anti-pilling wool tencel fabric of claim 1, wherein the preparation process of the modified nanocellulose is as follows:
i. Weighing nano cellulose solid, dispersing in anhydrous DMF, stirring and dispersing to form nano cellulose suspension, adding 4-dimethylaminopyridine into the suspension, and continuously stirring to form a reaction system;
And ii, slowly dropwise adding acetic anhydride into a reaction system, then heating, continuously refluxing for reaction, cooling to room temperature after the reaction is finished, centrifugally washing to obtain a precipitate, re-dispersing the precipitate into absolute ethyl alcohol, and freeze-drying to obtain the modified nanocellulose.
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| CN120759022A (en) * | 2025-09-11 | 2025-10-10 | 金塔羊绒纺织(江苏)有限公司 | Antibacterial regenerated wool blended yarn and production process thereof |
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| CN112743931A (en) * | 2021-02-01 | 2021-05-04 | 张家港市大新毛纺有限公司 | High-count wool loop light-color fabric |
| CN120759022A (en) * | 2025-09-11 | 2025-10-10 | 金塔羊绒纺织(江苏)有限公司 | Antibacterial regenerated wool blended yarn and production process thereof |
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