CN1756871A - Iridescent fabrics from polyamide yarns - Google Patents

Abstract

The shimmering fabrics include cationically dyeable nylon polymer yarns and acid-dyed nylon polymer yarns. The acid-dyed yarns have a g-equivalent weight of more than 35 amine end groups (AEG _acid ) per 1000 kg of polymer.

Description

Glitter fabric from polyamide yarn

Cross References to Related Applications

This application claims priority to Provisional Application No. 60/351,023, filed January 23,2002.

technical field

The present invention relates to fabrics exhibiting an iridescent appearance. Fabrics include cationically dyeable polyamide yarns and acid dyeable polyamide yarns.

Background technique

Glitter fabrics are known. These fabrics display looks ranging from two-tone effects to rainbow colors. In general, the color of the glitter fabric is determined by the viewing angle. Glitter fabrics for apparel applications are viewed from multiple angles as the garment conforms to the wearer's body. The result is that more than one apparent color predominates to the observer of the garment.

US Patent 5,741,590 to Kobsa et al. discloses a glittering fabric. Kobsa fabrics comprise a single bicomponent multifilament yarn of circular cross-section with a concentric sheath (jacket) and core. The sheath and core of Kobsa bicomponent filaments are acid dyeable nylon 66 and alkali dyeable nylon 66. Alternatively, the sheath and core of Kobsa bicomponent filaments are respectively acid dyeable nylon 66 and alkali dyeable polyester (polyethylene terephthalate containing 2 wt% 5-dimethyl sulfoisophthalate). ester polymers). In either case of Kobsa filaments, the sheath and core portions are dyed together in the same dyebath but receive different dyes separately. In addition, Kobsa relies on bicomponent filament spinning, which includes complex and expensive bicomponent spin packs. These components are required for joining the two molten polymer streams and accordingly combining the streams into the proper geometry.

US Patent 6,279,356 B1 to Takahashi et al. discloses warp knitting of yarns to obtain fabric color shades and "improved luster and iridescence" effects from disturbance. Takahashi fabrics are warp knitted fabrics and are preferably composed of either a black base weave yarn or a base weave yarn of a color complementary to the color of the embedded weave yarn. Yarns may be natural fibers, synthetic fibers such as polyester or nylon, or semi-synthetic fibers such as rayon or acetate. The Takahashi method used to achieve these color effects requires multiple steps of polymer coloring as well as conventional dyeing of the fabric prior to spinning. Examples of dyeing include the use of cationic dyes for base weaving polyester filaments, and the use of basic dyes and disperse dyes, both of which are used in combination to dye polyester filaments for embedded weaving, respectively. In either case, cationic dyes are used. However, cationic dyes are rarely used in nylon yarn apparel applications due to the limited range of available cationic dye palettes and the lack of inherent cationic dyeability of standard nylons.

Another known method for achieving iridescence in textile materials is disclosed by US Patent 6,326,094 B1 to Asano et al. Asano discloses composite alternating laminated filament structures prepared from laminated layers of different organic polymers having different refractive indices and providing reflection and interference of visible light or reflection of ultraviolet and infrared rays. These effects can be used on textiles to produce colors that vary in hue and intensity depending on the viewing angle. The method of Asano et al. requires expensive and sophisticated multicomponent spin packs and multiple polymer streams to produce alternating laminations of different organic polymer layers to obtain laminated synthetic filaments of this type.

Known iridescent fabrics are produced from acid-dyeable and cationically-dyeable synthetic polymer fibers. In general, the iridescence in known fabrics of this type is achieved using, for example, multifilament yarns composed of circular cross-section filaments of acid-dyeable and cationically-dyeable polyesters. Furthermore, acid-dyeable nylon can be used in the same way as cation-dyeable nylon, one of the yarns having a particularly bright sheen plated onto the fabric face. However, such prior art glitter fabrics for virtually all nylon fabrics use standard acid dyed nylon yarns. Such standard acid dye nylon yarns do not hold acid dye particularly well, which allows more acid dye to stain the cationically dyeable yarn. Therefore, dyeing these prior art fabrics in a single dyebath requires dyeing auxiliary chemicals to prevent reactions between the two types of dyes.

Summary of the invention

The iridescent fabrics of the present invention comprise deep acid dyeable nylon yarns in which deep dyeing performance is achieved using increased levels of amine end groups. This enables fabrics to be dyed in a single dyebath without the use of dyeing auxiliary chemicals to prevent reactions between acid and cationic dyes. The deeply acid-dyed nylon polymer yarn used here reacts with acid dyes quickly and completely in the dyebath, making the acid dyes unavailable to react with any other dyes present. The result is to minimize, if not eliminate, cross-contamination with cationic dyed yarns and reduce the need to use dye aux chemicals.

Thus, the present invention allows the use of cationic dyes with nylon, which use is rarely performed as described above. Thus, the glitter fabric of the present invention is essentially all nylon, optionally with a portion of spandex. The fabrics of the present invention are well suited for textile applications requiring substantially all nylon fabrics, such as pantyhose and many new seamless garments.

In addition, the iridescent fabrics of the present invention can be dyed in a single bath using acid dyes and cationic dyes due to the use of deeply acid-dyed nylon polymer yarns to minimize cross contamination with cationic dyed yarns. Thus, the present invention allows fabrics to be dyed in a single step rather than relying on multi-step yarn dyeing.

Furthermore, the method of making the iridescent fabrics of the present invention is based on conventional nylon melt spinning technology and does not rely on complex multi-component spin packs, or mass colored polymers.

Brief description of the drawings

Figure 1A is a cross-sectional view of a trilobal fiber taken normal to the long axis of a single polyamide fiber in the yarn used to make the fabric of the present invention.

Figure 1B is a cross-sectional view of a diabolo-shaped fiber taken normal to the long axis of a single polyamide fiber in the yarn used to make the fabric of the present invention.

Figure 2 is a perspective view of a portion of the fabric of the present invention.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENT

The present invention is a glitter textile fabric. Preferred fabrics are hosiery and seamless knits. A fabric of the present invention is shown generally at 10 in FIG. 2 . The fabric consisted of two polyamide multifilament yarns. The yarns are combined after fabric construction. The glitter fabrics of the present invention are two-sided, that is, a single component yarn predominates on one side of the fabric. Thus, the iridescent fabric is constructed such that one yarn predominates substantially on the first side 20 of the fabric and the second yarn substantially predominates on the second side 30 of the fabric, as shown in FIG. 2 . The iridescent appearance exhibited by the fabrics of the present invention may be one of a contrasting or complementary color.

Multifilament polyamide yarns are cationically dyeable (also known as alkali dyeable) nylon polymer yarns and acid dyeable nylon polymer yarns. Yarns differ in their dyeability and receptivity to different classes of dyes commonly used in nylon. It is known that nylon or aliphatic polyamide yarns can be dyed intensively with so-called acid dyes, in which at least about 85% of the polymer chain linkages between repeating amide groups are aliphatic groups, where the usual nylon polymers are called It is acid-stainable. Nylon can be made resistant to acid dyes by introducing sulfonate groups into the polymer, as described in US Patent 5,164,261. In US 5,164,261, the copolymerization of polyamides with small amounts, about 1-4 wt%, of 5-sulfoisophthalic acid sodium salt is taught. Nylon polymers so modified with sulfonate esters of dicarboxylic acids are used to make yarns referred to herein as base-dyeable, cation-dyeable, or simply cat-dye yarns. The name is due to the chemical group for the acid dye resistance that imparts cationic dyeability on the yarn. Cationic dyes are known for use in some apparel nylon yarn applications, but are less commonly used than acid dyes.

Suitable synthetic polymer fibers that can be processed into acid- and alkali-dyeable polyamides and that can also be melt spun in the cross-sectional filament shape of the present invention include: Nylon 66 (polyhexamethylene adipamide), Nylon 6 ( Polycaproamide), nylon 7 (polyenanthamide), nylon 612 (polyhexamethylene dodecyl diamide), nylon 11, nylon 12 and copolyamides of nylon 66 and nylon 6, such as from Polymers of 1,6-hexanediamine, ε-caprolactam and adipic acid, and polymers prepared from adipic acid, 1,6-hexanediamine and isophthalic acid, or from adipic acid, 1,6 - polymers prepared from hexamethylenediamine and 2-methyl-1,5-pentanediamine or 2-ethyl-1,4-butylenediamine; containing up to 15 wt%, such as 0.5-15 wt% polymphthalylene Copolyamide of Nylon 66 with 1,6-hexamethylenediamine or poly(2-methyl)pentanediamine or poly(2-ethyl)butanediamine adipylamide and copolyamides of nylon 6 comprising up to 15 wt%, such as 0.5-15 wt% nylon 66.

Typically, the nylon polymers and copolyamides described in the preceding paragraphs are inherently acid dyeable. The number of free amine end groups (AEG) in these polymers is at least 25 gram equivalents per 1000 kg of nylon polymer. For more intense acid staining of the polymer, increased levels of free amine end groups are required. Preferred and enhanced AEG levels for acid dyeable yarns are greater than 35 gram equivalents per 1000 kilograms of nylon polymer. Preferably it is 60-130 gram equivalent per 1000 kg of nylon polymer. Amine end group concentrations of up to about 130 gram equivalents per 1000 kilograms of polymer may be used in the acid dyeable polymer component to achieve fabric appearance properties. More particularly, for acid dyeable yarn polymers, an AEG level of about 70 gram equivalents per 1000 kilograms of nylon polymer is most preferred.

Base-dyed yarn polymers were prepared using cationic dye modifiers copolymerized in the polymer. US Patent 5,164,261 to Windley describes the preparation of such cationic dye-modified polyamides. In the present invention, it is preferred to modify the polymer with 0.5-4% of the preferred cationic dye modifier, dimethyl ester of 5-sulfoisophthalic acid, during polymerization. Typically, a weighed amount of dimethyl 5-sulfoisophthalate sodium salt is combined with a known amount of polyamide precursor salt in an autoclave using standard polymerization procedures known in the art. A more preferred amount of cationic dye modifier present in the polymer is from about 0.75 to about 3 weight percent, as determined by total sulfur analysis of the polymer. The amount of cationic dye modifier is reported as equivalent sulfonyl ester groups. A preferred concentration of sulfonyl ester groups is at least 15 gram equivalents per 1000 kg polymer to about 150 gram equivalents per 1000 kg polymer, preferably greater than 30 gram equivalents per 1000 kg polymer. It is preferred that the cationically dyeable nylon yarn of the iridescent fabric has an amine end group concentration of not greater than 40 gram equivalents per 1000 kilograms of polymer. Preferably the concentration difference (ρ) between the sulfonate end groups (S _cat ) and the amine end groups (AEG _cat ) is greater than or equal to zero.

ρ＝S _cat -AEG _cat ≥0 Formula 1

Each yarn comprises filaments with circular, non-circular, trilobal, or diabolo cross-sectional shapes. A trilobal shape is shown in FIG. 1A and a diabolo shape is shown in FIG. 1B . The trilobal shape is further characterized in that its modification ratio M is 1.5-4. The M ratio is defined as the largest circumscribed circle radius A divided by the smallest inscribed circle radius B in contact with the extremities of the cross section, as shown in Figure 1A. The M ratio of a diabolo cross-section is 1.5-6 and is defined as the longest length A of the cross-section divided by the smallest dimension B, as shown in Figure 1B.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cationically dyeable or acid dyeable nylon yarns have an exceptionally bright luster, which can be achieved with a polymeric delustering agent level of no greater than 0.1 wt%. This brighter, more lustrous yarn predominates on the first side of the fabric. Preferably, the bright, high gloss nylon polymer yarn comprises filaments having a non-circular cross-sectional shape. More preferred are trilobal and diabolo cross-sectional shapes. Other more matte yarns can have any cross-sectional shape. Polyamide yarns with a dull sheen are useful, but not necessarily modified, to achieve the shiny fabric effect of the present invention. The matte polymer yarn has a matting agent level equal to or greater than about 0.8 wt%, preferably about 1.5%. Titanium dioxide is a more preferred matting agent for any of the polyamide polymers disclosed herein. Other matting agents for polyamide polymers, such as zinc sulfide, are also suitable.

The double sided or layered effect of the fabric is achieved from the ability to plate multiple yarns, as is known in the art. A commercially available seamless knitting machine offering the ability to plate multiple yarns is manufactured by Lonati S.p.a. (Italy), which manufactures SANTONI single and double knit versions of the seamless knitting machine. Seamless knitting machines are also commercially available from San Giacomo and Monarch, as known to the skilled person. In addition to double sided seamless knit construction, conventional two sided hosiery knit construction techniques or any other double sided fabric knitting, warp knitting, circular knitting or flat knitting process can be useful ways of making the fabrics of the present invention.

The yarns of the present invention can be prepared by known methods of making FDY (fully drawn yarn), POY (partially oriented yarn), and LOY (lowly oriented yarn). In the case of FDY (fully drawn yarn), the in-line processing on the spinning frame consists of several reciprocations around the set of godet rolls (feed rolls), the number of reciprocations being sufficient Preventing slippage on these rolls, the yarn is then passed through another set of rolls (draw rolls), which rotate at sufficient speed to draw a predetermined amount (draw ratio) of the yarn, and finally heat-set and placed on A steam box was used to relax the yarn before winding at a speed of 4800 m/min. Optionally, additional heat setting methods may be used, such as heated rolls, and additional sets of godet rolls may be introduced between the draw rolls and winder to control tension while setting or relaxing the yarn. Optionally, a second application of spin finish, and/or additional interlacing may also be applied before the final winding step.

In the case of POY, the additional inline processing consists only of the preparation of S-hangers on two godet rolls rotating at the same The winding machine runs at 4800m/min. The use of S-hanging wires is beneficial for tension control, but is not required. This POY can be directly used as flat yarn for weaving or knitting, or as a raw material for deformation.

In the case of LOY, the spinning procedure is very similar to POY, with the difference that a winding speed of 1000 m/min or less is used. These yarns require further processing through a second stage, such as on a conventional draw twist or draw winder.

The production of acid-dyeable and alkali-dyeable yarns of the invention of either polymer type may follow the same spinning procedure using the known methods described above. First, a suitable type of polyamide pellets can be fed into a metering device, and a metering pump can send the molten polymer to a filter assembly to be extruded through a spinneret plate containing capillary holes of a chosen shape to temperature to obtain the desired filament cross-section. These cross-sectional shapes may include circular, non-circular, trilobal, and diabolo. The spinning temperature can be 270°C-300°C. The bundle of filaments emerging from the spinneret plate can be cooled by conditioned quench air, treated with a spin finish (oil/water emulsion), optionally interlaced, fed into two guide wires rotating at the same speed The "S-hanging wire" tension control structure on the roll is then sent to the yarn high speed winder, which winds at 4800 meters per minute. The POY thus produced can optionally be used directly as woven or knitted flat yarn, or as a raw material for stretch texturing.

Further according to the present invention, there is provided a method of preparing a iridescent textile fabric. The method includes dyeing a fabric comprising: cationically dyeable nylon polymer yarn and acid dyeable nylon polymer yarn in a single dyebath. At least one acid dye and at least one cationic dye are present in the dyebath. As noted above for fabrics, the preferred and enhanced AEG levels of the acid dyed polymers used to make the filaments of the present invention are greater than 35 gram equivalents per 1000 kilograms of nylon polymer. Preferred is 60-130 gram equivalents per 1000 kg of nylon polymer. Amine end group concentrations of up to about 130 gram equivalents per 1000 kilograms of polymer may be used in the acid dyeable polymer component to achieve fabric appearance properties. More particularly, for acid dyeable yarn polymers, an AEG level of about 70 gram equivalents per 1000 kilograms of nylon polymer is most preferred. This increased level of amine end groups enables the dyeing of fabrics in a single dyebath without the use of dyeing auxiliary chemicals to prevent reactions between acid and cationic dyes.

Test Methods

The relative viscosity (RV) of nylon polymers can be measured according to ASTM D789-86 and is defined as the viscosity of 8.4 wt% polymer in a solution of 90% formic acid and 10% water at 25°C compared to the viscosity at 25°C in the same viscosity units Measure the viscosity of the formic acid aqueous solution itself.

Nylon polymer amine end group (AEG) concentration and polymer carbonyl end group concentration were measured by titration methods as described in "Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemical Analysis" vol. 17 pp. 293-294 (John Wiley & Sons Inc. , 1973) above. In general, the method for determining the concentration of AEG involves taking a weighed sample of polymer, yarn or fabric; 1-2 grams based on the expected amine end group level and dissolving it in 50 ml of a mixture of phenol and methanol (8:2 by volume) This sample. This solution was filtered to remove the deluster and insolubles. This supernatant was made up to a total volume of 100 ml and titrated with perchloric acid normalized to basic standard base. The amount of normalized perchloric acid consumed in the titration is recorded for potentiometric or acid indicator endpoints, as known in the art. This volume of perchloric acid is related to the amine end group weight concentration of the sample taken. AEG levels are reported in gram equivalents per ¹⁰⁶ grams of polyamide.

Free carboxylic acid groups were determined by titration with standardized alkali hydroxides following a protocol similar to the AEG determination. Along with the polyamide sample weight, the normalized amount of alkali hydroxide consumed is related to the number of carboxyl end groups in the polymer. Carboxyl end groups are reported in gram equivalents per ¹⁰⁶ grams of polyamide.

The concentration of sulfonate groups in the alkali-dyeable polymers used in the invention is determined by analytical methods known to those skilled in the art. Typically, weighed samples are taken and dissolved in a suitable solvent system for the polyamide. The total sulfur content is determined from the total sulfate concentration after oxidation by methods known in the art. Alternatively, an x-ray fluorescence method using calibration standards is suitable for total sulfur analysis. The total sulfur was assumed to be entirely derived from the sulfonate groups added during polymerization.

Example

Example 1 - Part A

A first nylon multifilament flat (untextured) yarn having a glossy, trilobal cross-sectional shape is prepared from a polymer modified to provide cationic dyeability. The total yarn decitex is 22 and each yarn has 9 filaments. This yarn was spun from a nylon 66 polymer (polyhexamethylene adipamide) containing 1.5 wt% of 5-sulfoisophthalic acid as a cationic dye modifier. This polymer had a formic acid RV of 31.5, a titanium dioxide delustering agent content of 0.02 wt%, an amine end group concentration of 42 gram equivalents per 1000 kg polymer, and a sulfonate group concentration of 55 gram equivalents per 1000 kg polymer. Here the difference between the sulfonate end groups and the amine end groups for cationically dyeable yarns is given by Equation 1 and is equal to:

ρ= _Scat - _AEGcat =55-42=13.

This polymer was melted and extruded through a spinneret plate with multiple three-lobe capillaries maintained at 279.5°C. The extruded filaments are cooled in a stream of air, converged into yarns and finished with an oil/water emulsion applied in a known manner. The yarn is first brought into contact with feed rolls and then sent to a draw roll arrangement. Stretch the yarn 1.5 times. The stretched yarn was wound at a speed of 4800 meters per minute. The nylon yarn prepared in this way is easily dyed by cationic dyes. The same yarn is largely unaffected by usual acid dyes. The tenacity of this yarn was 48 cN/tex, the elongation at break was 36.5%, and the shrinkage in boiling water was 7.1%. The modification ratio (M) of the trefoil cross-section was 1.56, measured as the ratio of the diameters of the circumscribed and inscribed circles, as shown in Figure 1A.

The second yarn was DuPont LYCRA(R) brand spandex covered in nylon. The 22 dtex LYCRA(R) spandex was single covered by standard industry methods at 1600 twists per meter. The nylon component was 26 decitex 14 filament deep acid dyed POY which was drawn in a separate step to give 22 decitex (untextured) yarn. Individual filaments are circular in cross-section. This deep acid dye POY is a nylon 66 polymer from 40RV (formic acid). The amine end group concentration (AEG acid) was increased to 70 gram equivalents per 1000 kg polymer by known polymerization methods and the titanium dioxide delustering agent content was 1.5 wt%. The covered yarn has stretch properties imparted by LYCRA(R) spandex and an appearance defined by the apparent nylon component. This nylon yarn is easily dyed by standard acid dyes and is not stained by cationic dyes.

In an alternate construction process, the first nylon yarn and the second (cover) yarn were selected 1 x 1 knitted on a 400 gauge LANATI 404 knitting machine to form the pantyhose. The construction was an alternating process with the 22f14 covered flat filament yarn in one feed and the bright 22f9 flat cationic dyeable yarn in the other feed. The design is a 1 x 1 braid tuck option on LYCRA(R) spandex cover yarn. In this construction, bright 22f9 yarn is plated to the front of the garment.

The garment is then dyed in a single dyebath using two separate dyes, an acid dye and another cationic dye selected for contrasting colour. The cationic dye is bright red, Maxilon Red 3GLN purchased from CIBA, 0.4wt% relative to the cationic dyeable nylon component yarn in knitted clothes. The acid dye is bright turquoise blue acid dye, available from BASF's Acidolbr.Blue M-5G, which is 0.4wt% relative to the acid dyeable nylon component yarn in the knitted garment. The stainer was a Roaches Pyrotec 2002 (Roaches International LTD) using a 1 liter stainless steel airtight beaker. At the start, with the dyebath and fabric at 30°C, the cationic dye was added with 5.0% sodium sulphate (glauber's salt) and 0.1% Tinegal MR (a cationic dye blocker for basic dyes from CIBA) relative to the total weight of the fabric . At a dye liquor to fabric item ratio of 28:1, the water bath was adjusted to pH 6.0. The temperature was increased at 1.0°C per minute to 60°C and held for 10 minutes. The cooling rate back to 35°C was set at 2.5°C per minute. This is to prevent the cationic dye from being used up on the cationically dyeable yarn. To this same dyebath, the anionic dye was added, mixed with 1.0% Sandogen NH (a dye blocker for anionic dyes available from Clariant) based on the total weight of the article. The dyebath temperature was increased at 1.0°C per minute to 98°C and held at this temperature for 45 minutes. The dyebath was cooled to 50°C at 7.0°C per minute. The knit samples were removed, washed in cold water and dried without tumble.

The dyed garment was inspected by a panel of experts in dyeing and finishing fabrics. Agreed that this garment has a very unusual and attractive shimmery look when viewed from the front where the high sheen yarn is dominant on the front. The fabric color is an essentially dark lavender that varies strongly with viewing angle, especially in the plies of the fabric. The depth of the fabric plies shows a gray-blue color, while the raised parts have a bright pink-toned sheen. The component dye colors, bright red and harsh turquoise, do not appear in this garment. The back side of the garment shows some shades of blue without the glitter effect.

Example 1 - Part B

In Part B, the yarn, garment construction, and dyeing method are the same as those in Part A, with the difference being the dye used. The dyes consisted of the following: Brilliant yellow cationic dye, Maxilon Yellow GL from CIBA 200%, applied at 0.1 wt% of the weight of cationically dyeable nylon in the sample; and intense violet dye, NYLOSAN Violet F-BL 180%, applied at 0.1% by weight of The acid dyeable nylon component was applied at 0.9 wt%. The dyeing process is the same as in Part A.

The visual assessment method in this example is the same as in Part A. Finished dyed garments have an overall lilac color with brief shimmering areas ranging from purple to warm silver. The original bright yellow color was not observed and the backside of the garment did not show iridescence.

Example 1 - Part C

Yarns, garments, dyeing methods, and visual assessments for Part C are the same as those for Part A. A different dye was used in part C, consisting of the following: Sage Green cationic dye, a mixture of Sevron Yellow 3RL and Sevron Blue CAN, both purchased from YORKSHIRE CHEMICALS. These dyes were applied at 0.2% by weight of the cationically dyeable nylon component of the samples. The same intense violet acid dye used in Part B, NYLOSAN Violet F-BL 180%, was applied at a lower concentration of 0.2% by weight of the acid dyeable nylon component.

Finished dyed garments have an overall dark gray color with areas of vivid shimmer ranging from lavender to silver. The original sage green was not observed and the backside of the garment did not show iridescence.

Example 1 - Part D

Yarns, garments, dyeing methods, and visual assessments for Part D are the same as those for Part A. Different dyes were used in Part D, consisting of: Brilliant Yellow Cationic Dye, Maxilon Yellow GL 200% from CIBA, applied at 0.2 wt% of the weight of the cationically dyeable nylon component in the sample; and Brilliant Blue Dye , NYLOSAN Blue F-2RFL 160% was applied at a concentration of 1.4% by weight of the acid dyeable nylon component.

The finished dyed garment has an overall lilac color with intense, fleeting areas of shimmer ranging from purple to warm silver. The original bright yellow color was not observed and the backside of the garment did not show iridescence.

Example 1 - Part E

The yarn, garment, dyeing method, and visual evaluation for this example were the same as those in Part A. Different dyes were used in Part E, consisting of: Brilliant Yellow Cationic Dye, Maxilon Yellow GL 200% from CIBA, applied at 0.2% by weight of the cationically dyeable nylon component of the sample; and Intense Violet Acid Dye , NYLOSAN VioletF-BL 180%, applied in an amount of 0.9wt% by weight of the acid dyeable nylon component.

The finished dyed garment has a more speckled appearance rather than the overall base color of the other garments in sections A-D. It is believed that this observation is due to the strong contrast between the lighter yellow and dark blue components for Part E. Part E garments show intense iridescence and an almost metallic sheen. The back side of the garment does not show iridescence.

Example 1 - Part F

Compared

In this comparative example, substantially the same flat (untextured) POY component as was used to prepare the Part A second yarn was prepared. The polymer from which this yarn was made contained 35 gram equivalents of amine end groups per 1000 kg of polymer (AEG _acid ). All other test details, including staining and visual assessment methods, are the same as in Part E of the present invention. This comparative example illustrates the effect of using a standard acid dyed nylon yarn in place of a more deeply dyed yarn with a high amine end group concentration. This lower amine end group concentration acid dyeable yarn does not retain acid dye as strongly as dark dyed yarn, allowing more acid dye to stain cationically dyeable yarn.

After dyeing this garment, the staining of the considerably more cationically dyeable yarn by the blue acid dye resulted in a substantial loss of sage green and sparkle effects.

Example 2

In this example of the invention, a "seamless" circular knit garment was prepared and dyed according to the dyeing procedure of Example 1 Part A. The prepared garment consisted of a first yarn of flat (untextured) POY having a glossy sheen and a multifilament having a trilobal cross-sectional shape. This flat POY has a total weight of 56 decitex and contains 20 filaments. The yarn is spun from a cationically dyeable nylon 66 polymer having an RV (formic acid) of 31.5, a titanium dioxide content of 0.02 wt%, an amine end group concentration of 42 gram equivalents per 1000 kg of polymer, and sulfonate groups The concentration was 55 gram equivalents per 1000 kg of polymer. The yarn was spun in a known manner through a spinneret plate having shaped capillaries to obtain a POY having 20 filaments of trilobal cross-section per yarn.

The second yarn was a commercially available sample of a deeply acid-dyeable, completely matte, circular cross-section nylon 66 textured yarn covered with 17 dtex DuPont LYCRA® Spandex T175. As in Example 1, Parts A-F, the LYCRA(R) spandex does not have to achieve the sparkle visual effect of the present invention due to being covered by the dyed nylon yarn. The deep dyed nylon polymer from which this yarn was made was the same as used to make the second yarn of Example 1 Part A. The polymer was 40 RV, the amine end group concentration was 70 gram equivalents per 1000 kg polymer and the TiO2 content was 1.5 wt%. This yarn was spun by the conventional POY route and texturized by frictional false twist texturing and then used to cover LYCRA(R) spandex in known manner.

On a 13" 28 gauge SANTONI SM8-83 TOP seamless machine, using a single jersey construction, plating to the back side to weave the first and second yarns together. The method of Example 1 uses Maxilon Blue TL as cationic dyestuff accounting for 0.15wt% by weight of cationic dyeable nylon component, and acid dye NYLOSAN Bordeaux NBL accounting for 0.2wt% and 0.4wt% of acid dyed nylon component yarn weight respectively Seamless circular knit garment dyed with NYLOSAN Yellow N7GI.

The appearance of the garments was subjectively assessed by a panel of experts. The front of the garment fabric is a fairly uniform reddish brown. The backside of the garment fabric plated with bright luster yarn had an overall plum color with a shade of pink and a lustrous sparkle of iridescent blue.

Claims (9)

1. A glitter textile fabric comprising cationically dyeable nylon polymer yarns and acid dyeable nylon polymer yarns, wherein the acid dyeable yarns have greater than 35 gram equivalents of amine end groups (AEG acid) per 1000 kilograms of polymerization things. 2. The glitter fabric according to claim 1, wherein said cationically dyeable nylon polymer yarn has a concentration of sulfonate groups (S _cat ) of at least 15 gram equivalents per 1000 kg of polymer and amine end groups (AEG _cat ) The concentration is not more than 40 grams equivalent per 1000 kilograms of polymer. 3. The glitter fabric according to claim 1, wherein said cationically dyeable nylon polymer yarn comprises a plurality of sulfonate end groups (S _cat ) and a plurality of amine end groups (AEG _cat ), wherein at the sulfonate end groups The concentration difference (rho) between (S _cat ) and the amine end group (AEG _cat ) conforms to the following formula: rho=S _cat -AEG _cat =0. 4. The iridescent fabric of claim 1, wherein the cationically dyeable or acid dyeable nylon yarn comprises from 0 to about less than or equal to about 0.1 wt % titanium dioxide. 5. The iridescent fabric of claim 4, wherein the cationically dyeable or acid dyeable nylon yarn comprising from 0 to about less than or equal to about 0.1 wt% titanium dioxide comprises a plurality of shaped cross-sectional filaments having a trilobal cross-sectional shape. 6. The iridescent fabric of claim 4, wherein the cationically dyeable or acid dyeable nylon yarn comprising from 0 to about less than or equal to about 0.1 wt% titanium dioxide comprises a plurality of filaments having a diabolo cross-sectional shape. 7. The iridescent fabric of claim 5, wherein the nylon yarn comprising from 0 to about less than or equal to about 0.1 wt% titanium dioxide comprises cationically dyeable yarn. 8. The glitter fabric of claim 7, wherein the acid-dyeable nylon comprises a plurality of filaments having a circular cross-sectional shape. 9. A method of making iridescent fabrics, comprising: dyeing, in a single dyebath, at least one acid dye and at least one cationic dye present in the dyebath comprising cationically dyeable nylon polymer yarn and acid dyeable nylon polymer yarn A fabric of yarn, wherein the acid-dyeable yarn has greater than 35 gram equivalents of amine end groups (AEG _acid ) per 1000 kg of polymer.

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