CZ20003900A3 - Skin and / or hair cleansing products containing also skin care active substances - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a substantially dry, disposable personal care product that is useful for both cleansing the skin or hair and delivering skin care actives to the skin or hair. The products are used by the consumer (i) moistening the dry product with water and (ii) generating a lather from the moistened product by mechanical force, e.g., rubbing. The product comprises a water-insoluble substrate, a lathering surfactant, and a skin care active. The products of the present invention further preferably comprise a deposition aid and/or a conditioning ingredient.

Description

Skin and/or hair cleansing products also containing active skin care ingredients

Technical area

The present invention relates to a substantially dry, disposable personal hygiene product that is useful for both cleansing the skin or hair and delivering skin care actives to the skin or hair. These products are used by the consumer to moisten the dry product with water, form a foam from the product, and apply the foamed product to the skin in a manner conventionally used for cleansing the skin. These products comprise a water-insoluble substrate, at least one foaming surfactant, and at least one skin care active.

The use of a substrate improves foaming at low surfactant concentrations, enhances cleansing and exfoliation, optimizes the delivery and deposition of skin protection actives, and exhibits desirable characteristics such as texture, thickness, and volume. As a result, the present invention provides effective cleansing using low and therefore less irritating surfactant concentrations while providing perfect delivery of skin care actives to the skin or hair.

The invention also includes products that contain and deliver various skin conditioners to the skin or hair.

The invention also includes a method for permanently depositing skin care actives into the skin or hair.

The invention also includes a method of simultaneously cleansing the skin or hair and delivering skin care actives to the skin or hair using the products of the present invention, as well as methods of making such products.

State of the art

Personal care products are traditionally sold in a variety of forms such as bars, creams, solutions and gels. These cleansers attempt to meet a number of criteria to be acceptable to consumers. These criteria include cleaning effectiveness, skin feel, gentleness to the skin, hair and ocular mucosa, and foam volume. Ideal personal care products should gently cleanse the skin or hair, cause little or no irritation, and not leave the skin or hair dry with frequent use.

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However, these traditional forms of personal care products have a significant problem of balancing the effectiveness of cleansing the skin with the provision of beneficial care. One solution is to use separate skin cleansing and skin care products. However, this is not always convenient or practical, and many consumers would prefer a single product that both cleanses and provides beneficial care to the skin. In a typical cleanser, the skin care ingredients are difficult to formulate because many skin care ingredients are incompatible with surfactants, resulting in an undesirable inhomogeneous mixture. To obtain a homogeneous mixture with the skin care ingredients and to prevent loss of the skin care ingredients prior to deposition, other ingredients are often added, such as emulsifiers, stiffeners, and gelling agents, which help suspend the skin care ingredients in the surfactant mixture. The result is an aesthetically pleasing homogeneous mixture, but often poor deposition of the skin care ingredients occurs because the skin care ingredients are emulsified and not sufficiently released during cleansing. Many skin care agents also have the disadvantage of being suds suppressing foaming. Suds suppression is a problem because many consumers seek cleansing products that provide a rich, creamy, and abundant lather.

It follows that the disadvantages of conventional cleansing products that attempt to combine surfactants and skin care ingredients are that surfactants and skin care ingredients are incompatible. There is a clear need to develop cleansing systems that provide both effective cleansing and consistently beneficial skin care in a single product.

It is also highly desirable to provide cleansing and convenient skin care in a single-use product. Single-use products are convenient because they eliminate the need to carry around bulky bottles, cubes, jars, tubes, and other forms of personal care products. Single-use products are also a much more hygienic alternative to using sponges, washcloths, and other cleaning utensils designed for repeated use, which can cause bacterial growth, unpleasant odors, and other undesirable characteristics associated with repeated use.

The present invention has surprisingly shown that it is possible to develop products that provide effective cleaning and consistent delivery of skin care actives as a convenient, inexpensive and hygienic personal care product that has the desirable properties of a washcloth. The present invention advantageously avoids the need to use a separate product for • ·

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99 • · · 9 9 9

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999 99 99 skin cleansing and skin care product. The present invention is very convenient to use because the product is essentially in dry form and is moistened before use.

The present invention relates to a dry, disposable personal care product that is useful for both cleansing the skin or hair and delivering skin care actives to the skin or hair. The products are used by the consumer wetting the dry product with water. The products of the present invention comprise a water-insoluble substrate, at least one foaming surfactant, and at least one skin care active. In some embodiments, the products further comprise a deposition aid. Without being limited by theory, it is believed that the substrate improves foaming at low surfactant concentrations, enhances cleansing and exfoliation, and optimizes the delivery and consistent deposition of skin care actives. As a result, the present invention provides effective cleansing using low and therefore less irritating surfactant concentrations while delivering skin care actives to the skin or hair thoroughly and effectively. The products have also been shown to be useful for delivering various conditioning ingredients to the skin or hair during the cleansing process.

The object of the present invention is therefore to provide substantially dry products similar to washcloths which, upon contact with water, both cleanse the skin or hair and deliver skin care actives to the skin or hair.

Another object of the present invention is to provide disposable products.

Another object of the present invention is to provide products that are gentle on the skin or hair.

Another object of the present invention is to provide products useful for delivering conditioning agents to the skin or hair during a cleansing process.

Another object of the present invention is to provide products that consistently deposit skin care actives and other conditioning agents into the skin or hair.

Another object of the present invention is to provide methods for cleansing the skin or hair and consistently delivering skin care actives to the skin or hair.

Another object of the present invention is to provide methods of manufacturing the products of the present invention.

The following disclosure will make clear these and other objects of the present invention.

• · • ··

The essence of the invention

The present invention relates to disposable personal care cleansing and conditioning products comprising A) a water-insoluble substrate, B) at least one foaming surfactant added to or impregnated into the substrate, and C) a skin care component comprising at least one skin care active selected from the group consisting of water-soluble skin care actives, oil-soluble skin care actives, and mixtures thereof. The skin care actives are also added to or impregnated into the substrate. These products are substantially dry prior to wetting. However, when wetting, these products are capable of generating an average foam volume greater than or equal to 30 ml.

In another embodiment, the articles of the present invention further comprise at least one deposition promoting agent added to or impregnated into the substrate.

In yet another embodiment, the present invention relates to methods of making such disposable personal hygiene cleansing products. The method comprises A) a step in which i) a foaming surfactant and ii) a skin care active ingredient are separately or simultaneously added to or impregnated into a water-insoluble substrate, and B) a step of drying the treated substrate. The resulting product generates an average foam volume greater than or equal to 30 ml.

In yet another embodiment, the present invention relates to methods of simultaneously cleansing the skin or hair and delivering skin care actives to the skin or hair using the personal care cleansing products described herein.

In yet another embodiment, the present invention relates to methods for consistently depositing skin care actives into the skin or hair.

Unless otherwise stated, all percentages and ratios used are by weight, all measurements were made at 25° C. The present invention may comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential and preferred additives and components described.

Detailed description of the invention.

The personal care cleansing products of the present invention are highly effective in cleansing the skin or hair while providing effective deposition of skin care actives into the skin or hair. The products may also contain conditioning agents to be deposited into the skin or hair.

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Without being limited by theory, it is believed that the substrate contributes substantially to the generation of lather and the deposition of skin care actives and any other conditioning agents onto the skin or hair. It is believed that this increase in lather and deposition is the result of the surface interaction of the substrate with the skin or hair. This results in the use of a finer and substantially smaller amount of surfactant. It is believed that the reduced amount of surfactant required results in a lower drying effect of the surfactants on the skin or hair. In addition, the reduced amount of surfactant dramatically reduces the inhibitory effect of the surfactant on the deposition of skin care actives onto the skin or hair (e.g., by emulsification or direct removal by the surfactants).

Without being limited by theory, it is believed that the substrate also improves the deposition of skin care actives and conditioning agents. Because the invention is in dry form, it does not require emulsifiers that can inhibit the deposition of skin care actives and conditioning agents. Because the skin care actives and skin conditioning agents are dried on or impregnated into the substrate, they are transferred directly to the skin or hair by skin contact with the surface of the moistened product.

The substrate also improves cleaning. The substrate can have a different texture on each side, e.g. a rough and a fine side. The substrate acts as a tool for effective foaming and exfoliation. When in physical contact with the skin or hair, the substrate significantly assists in cleaning and removing dirt, makeup, dead skin and other debris.

“Foaming surfactant” means a surfactant that generates foam upon contact with water and mechanical agitation. Preferably, these surfactants are mild, meaning that these surfactants provide sufficient cleansing or detersive benefit without overly drying the skin or hair (e.g., by excessively removing natural oil and/or moisture), while still meeting the foaming requirements set forth above.

The term “disposable” here means a product that is thrown away after one use.

The term “foaming product” or “foamed product” herein means that the products of the present invention contain an amount of the surfactant described herein sufficient to generate >30 ml of foam volume as described in the Foam Volume Test. These measurements are made with medium hardness water (8 to 10 grains per gallon) at 95°C.

The term “water-activated” here means that the present invention is delivered to the consumer in dry form and is usable after being moistened with water. It has been shown that these products »

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• Φ create foam or are “activated” by contact with water and then by mechanical action such as rubbing.

The term "substantially dry" herein means that, prior to use, the product is substantially free of water and feels dry to the touch. The products of the present invention generally contain less than 10 wt. % water, preferably less than 5 wt. % water, and more preferably less than 1 wt. % water, measured in a dry environment at low humidity. One skilled in the art will recognize that the water content of the product of the present invention may vary depending on the relative humidity of the environment.

The term “mild” as used herein in connection with the foaming surfactants and products of the present invention means that the mildness of the products of the present invention on the skin is comparable to synbar (i.e., a synthetic product containing a mild alkyl glyceryl ether sulfonate surfactant). Methods for measuring the mildness or, conversely, the irritancy of surfactant-containing products are based on the skin barrier disruption test. In this test, the milder the surfactant, the less the skin barrier is disrupted. Skin barrier disruption is measured by the relative amount of radiolabeled water (tritiated, 3H-H2O) that passes from the test solution through the skin into the saline solution contained in the diffusion chamber. The test is described by T.J. Franz in J. Invest. Dermatol·, 1975, 64, 190-195 and Smáli et al. in U.S. Patent ě. No. 4,673,525, issued June 16, 1987, both references being incorporated herein in their entirety. Other methods of determining surfactant fineness are also useful and are well known to those skilled in the art.

The term “deposition consistency” herein means that the deposition of skin care actives is relatively independent of the manner in which the consumer prepares for use and actually uses the cleansing product (e.g., lathering the skin care active side of the substrate versus lathering the surfactant side of the substrate). The deposition consistency of the products of the present invention is greater than 60%, preferably greater than 65%, more preferably greater than 70%, and most preferably greater than 75%. The measured deposition consistency is the ratio of the amount of skin care actives deposited under “non-ideal lathering and use” to the amount of skin care actives deposited under “ideal lathering and use.” Non-ideal lathering herein means that lathering is achieved by rubbing the surfaces of the skin care actives together or against each other and then contacting the skin or hair with the surface. This leads to insufficient deposition of skin care actives because part of the skin care actives is emulsified by the surfactant.

• ·

Ideal foaming here means that foaming is achieved by rubbing together or against the surface of the product containing surfactant but not skin care actives and then contacting the skin or hair with the surface containing skin care actives. The same applies if both surfaces of the substrate contain skin care actives (e.g., deposition after foaming and skin contact with the same foamed surface containing emulsified skin care actives versus skin contact with an unfoamed surface containing unemulsified skin care actives). The consistency of the deposition is maximum when the hardness value of the skin care active is greater than 0.02 kg.

The personal care products of the present invention comprise the following essential components: A) a water-insoluble substrate, B) at least one foaming surfactant added to or impregnated into the substrate, and C) at least one skin care active. The products of the present invention further comprise at least one deposition promoting agent.

Water-insoluble substrate

The products of the present invention comprise a water-insoluble substrate. “Water-insoluble” herein means that the substrate does not dissolve or disintegrate readily upon immersion in water. The water-insoluble substrate is a tool or means for delivering a foaming surfactant and skin care actives to the skin or hair. Without being limited by theory, it is believed that the substrate, as a means of transmitting mechanical action and movement, acts to generate and also deposit skin care actives into the skin or hair.

Many different substances are used as a substrate. The following non-limiting properties are desirable: i) sufficient strength for wet use, ii) sufficient roughness, iii) sufficient airiness and porosity, iv) sufficient thickness, and v) suitable size.

Non-limiting examples of suitable insoluble substrates that meet the above criteria include nonwoven substrates, woven substrates, hydroentangled substrates, aeroentangled substrates, natural sponges, synthetic sponges, polymeric crosslinked mesh nets, and the like. In a preferred embodiment, nonwoven substrates are used because they are readily and economically available in a variety of materials. Nonwoven means that the layer is composed of fibers that are not woven into a fabric, but rather form a sheet, mat, or backing layer. The fibers are either random (i.e., randomly arranged) or are

• · carded (i.e. combed with orientation predominantly in one direction). The nonwoven substrate may further consist of a combination of layers of random and carded fibers.

Nonwoven substrates can be made from a variety of natural and synthetic materials. Natural means that the materials are derived from plants, animals, insects or by-products of plants, animals and insects. Synthetic means that the materials are predominantly obtained from various man-made materials or from natural materials that have been further modified. The usual basic starting material is a fibrous web consisting of conventional synthetic or natural textile fibers of conventional length or mixtures thereof.

Non-limiting examples of natural materials useful in the present invention include silk fibers, keratin fibers, and cellulose fibers. Non-limiting examples of keratin fibers include fibers selected from the group consisting of wool fibers, camel hair fibers, and the like. Non-limiting examples of cellulose fibers include fibers selected from the group consisting of cellulose fibers, cotton fibers, hemp fibers, jute fibers, flax fibers, and mixtures thereof.

Non-limiting examples of synthetic materials useful in the present invention include those selected from the group consisting of acetate fibers, acrylic fibers, cellulose ester fibers, modacrylic fibers, polyamide fibers, polyester fibers, polyolefin fibers, polyvinyl alcohol fibers, rayon fibers, polyurethane foams, and mixtures thereof. Examples of some of these synthetic materials include acrylates such as acrylate, cresate, and acrylonitrile fibers, orion; cellulose ester fibers such as cellulose acetate, amel, and acel; polyamides such as fortrel, codel, and polyethylene terephthalate fibers, dacron; polyolefins such as polypropylene, polyethylene; polyvinyl acetate fibers; polyurethane foams, and mixtures thereof. These and other suitable fibers and nonwovens prepared therefrom are generally described in Riedel, “Nonwoen Bonding Methods and Materials,” Nonwoven World (1987), The Encyclopedia Americana, Vol. 11, pp. 147-153, and Vol. 26, pp. 566-581 (1984), U.S. Patent No. 4,891,227. Thaman et al., issued January 2, 1990, and U.S. Patent No. 4,891,228; all of which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.

Nonwoven substrates made from natural materials consist of webs or sheets most commonly formed from a liquid suspension of fibers on a fine wire mesh. See C.A.

Hampel et al., The Encyclopedia of Chemistry, 3rd ed., pp. 793-795 (1973), The

Encyclopedia Americana, Vol. 21, pp. 376-383 (1984) and G.A. Smook, Handbook of Pulp and

Paper Technologies, Technical Association for the Pulp and Paper Industry (1986); references are incorporated herein in their entirety.

Substrates made from natural materials useful in the present invention are obtained from a variety of commercial sources. Non-limiting examples of suitable commercially available paper layers useful in the present invention include Airtex ^R , an air-embossed ribbed cellulose layer having a basis weight of 71 grams per square yard (gsy), available from James River, Green Bay, WI; and Walkisoft ^R , an air-embossed ribbed cellulose layer having a basis weight of 75 gsy, available from Walkisoft USA, Mount Holly, NC.

Methods of making nonwoven substrates are well known in the art. In general, nonwoven substrates can be prepared by air-laid, water-laid, melt-blown, co-forming, rotomolding or carding processes, where fibers or filaments of the desired length are first cut from long webs, which are then immersed in a stream of water or air, and then placed on a grid through which air or water carrying the fiber passes. The resulting layer is then, regardless of the method of making or composition, subjected to at least one of various types of bonding operations to attach the individual fibers together to form a self-supporting network. According to the present invention, the nonwoven layer can be prepared by various methods including hydroentangled, thermally bonded or thermo-bonded, and combinations thereof. The substrates of the present invention can additionally consist of a single layer or multiple layers. The multilayer substrate can additionally contain films and other non-fibrous materials.

Nonwoven substrates made from synthetic materials useful in the present invention are also available from a variety of commercial sources. Non-limiting examples of suitable nonwoven layer materials useful in the present invention include HEF 40-047, an apertured hydroentangled material comprising 50% rayon and 50% polyester having a basis weight of 43 grams per square yard (gsy), available from Veratec, Inc., Walpole, MA; HEF 140-102, an apertured hydroentangled material comprising 50% rayon and 50% polyester having a basis weight of 56 gsy, available from Veratec, Inc., Walpole, MA; Novonet ^R 149-616, a thermally bonded grid pattern material comprising 100% polypropylene having a basis weight of 50 gsy, available from Veratec, Inc., Walpole, MA; Novonet ^R 149-801, a thermally bonded material with a grid pattern containing 69% rayon, 25% polypropylene and 6% cotton with a basis weight of 75 gsy, available from to · to to to •

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Veratec, lne., Walpole, MA; Novonet ^R 149-191, a thermally bonded grid pattern material containing 69% rayon, 25% polypropylene, and 6% cotton, 100 gsy basis weight, available from Veratec, lne., Walpole, MA; HEF Nubtex ^R 149-801, a nub aperture hydroentangled material containing 100% polyester, 70 gsy basis weight, available from Veratec, lne., Walpole, MA; Keybak ^R 951 V, a dry aperture material containing 75% rayon, 25% acrylic fibers, 43 gsy basis weight, available from Chicopee, New Brunswick, NJ; Keybak ^R 1368, an aperture material containing 75% rayon, 25% polyester, 39 gsy basis weight, available from Chicopee, New Brunswick, NJ; Duralace ^R 1236, an apertured hydroentangled material containing 100% rayon with a basis weight of 40 to 115 gsy, available from Chicopee, New Brunswick, NJ; Duralace ^R 5904, an apertured hydroentangled material containing 100% rayon with a basis weight of 40 to 115 gsy, available from Chicopee, New Brunswick, NJ; Chicopee ^R 5763, a carded hydroentangled material (8x6 apertures per inch) containing 70% rayon, 30% polyester and preferably up to 5% by weight latex binder (EVA) with a basis weight of 75 to 63 gsy, available from Chicopee, New Brunswick, NJ; Chicopee ^R 9900 series (e.g. Chicopee 9931 - 52 gsy, 50/50 rayon/polyester and Chicopee 9950 - 42 gsy, 50/50 rayon/polyester), a carded hydroentangled material containing fiber compositions from 50% rayon and 50% polyester to 100% polyester with a basis weight of 30 to 70 gsy, available from Chicopee, New Brunswick, NJ; Sontara 8868, a hydroentangled material containing 50% cellulose and 50% polyester with a basis weight of 60 gsy, available from Dupont Chemical Corp.

Alternatively, a crosslinked mesh polymer sponge can be used as a water-insoluble substrate, as described in European Patent No. EP 702550 A1, published March 27, 1996, the reference being incorporated herein in its entirety. The polymer sponge comprises a plurality of strands of extruded tubular meshes made from a highly flexible polymer, such as addition polymers of olefin monomers and polyamides of polycarboxylic acids. Although these polymer sponges were designed for use in connection with liquid cleaning compositions, these types of sponges are useful as a water-insoluble substrate in the present invention.

The substrate can be made in many different shapes and forms including flat pads, thick pads, thin sheets, balloon-shaped utensils, irregularly shaped utensils, in surface area sizes ranging from square inches to hundreds of square inches. The exact size depends on the desired application and desired properties » · · · ¥

Particularly suitable are square, round, rectangular or oval pads with a surface area of 1 to 144 square inches, preferably 10 to 120 square inches, more preferably 30 to square inches, with a thickness of 1 to 500 mils, preferably 5 to 250 mils, more preferably 10 to 100 mils.

The water-insoluble substrates of the present invention may comprise two or more layers, each having a different structure, abradability and extensibility. The different structure is the result of using different combinations of materials or different manufacturing methods or combinations thereof. A dual-structure substrate provides the advantage of a more abrasive side for exfoliation and a softer side with an absorbent for gentle cleaning. Additionally, the substrate may be a laminate of two layers with different moisture extensibility. Examples of such laminate substrates are described in copending application Ser. No. 09/013,640, filed January 26, 1998, the reference to which is incorporated herein in its entirety. Additionally, the separate layers of the substrate may be manufactured in different colors, which further facilitates the consumer's ability to distinguish the surfaces. Additionally, it is desirable that the substrates of the present invention have rounded corners. This feature prevents the tendency of water to accumulate at the corners of a square substrate.

Foaming surfactant

The products of the present invention contain an amount of foaming surfactant that is capable of generating a foam volume greater than or equal to 30 ml (average water hardness at 95°C) according to the foam volume test described herein. The products of the present invention preferably contain 0.5 to 40 wt. %, more preferably 0.75 to 12.5 wt. %, and most preferably 1 to 11 wt. % of the foaming surfactant based on the weight of the water-insoluble substrate.

A foaming surfactant means a surfactant that, upon contact with water and mechanical agitation, generates a foam or suds capable of foaming the entire product. Preferably, these surfactants or combinations thereof are mild, meaning that these surfactants provide sufficient cleaning or detersive benefit without excessively drying the skin or hair, while still meeting the foaming requirements set forth above.

A wide variety of foaming surfactants are useful in the present invention, selected from the group consisting of anionic foaming surfactants, nonionic foaming surfactants, amphoteric foaming surfactants, and mixtures thereof. In general, foaming surfactants do not interfere significantly with the deposition of conditioning agents, e.g., they are readily soluble in water and typically have an HLB value greater than 10. Cationic foaming surfactants are also preferred components, provided that they do not adversely affect the foaming properties of the desired foaming surfactants.

Anionic foaming surfactants

Non-limiting examples of anionic foaming surfactants useful in the compositions of the present invention are described by McCutcheon in Detergents and Emulsifiers, North American edition (1986), published by Allured Publishing Corporation; McCutcheon in Functional Materials, North American Edition (1992); and Lauglin et al. in U.S. Patent No. 3,929,678, issued December 30, 1975, all references being incorporated herein in their entirety.

A wide variety of anionic foaming surfactants are useful in the present invention. Non-limiting examples of anionic foaming surfactants include anionic foaming surfactants selected from the group consisting of sarcosinates, sulfates, isethionates, taurates, phosphates, lactylates, glutamates, and mixtures thereof. Alkoyl isethionates are preferred among isethionates, and alkyl and alkyl ether sulfates are preferred among sulfates. Alkoyl isethionates typically have the formula RCO-OCH2CH2SO3M, where R is an alkyl or alkenyl group having 10 to 30 carbon atoms and M is a water-soluble cation such as ammonium, sodium, potassium, and triethanolamine. Non-limiting examples of such isethionates include alkyl isethionates selected from the group consisting of ammonium cocoyl isethionate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauroyl isethionate, and mixtures thereof.

Alkyl and alkyl ether sulfates typically have the formula ROSO3M or RO(C2H4O) _x SO3M, respectively, where R is an alkyl or alkenyl group of 10 to 30 carbon atoms, x is 1 to 10, and M is a water-soluble cation such as ammonium, sodium, potassium, and triethanolamine cations. Another suitable class of anionic surfactants are water-soluble salts of organosulfur acids of the general formula R1-SO3-M, where R1 is selected from the group consisting of saturated aliphatic hydrocarbon radicals with a straight or branched chain of 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 16 carbon atoms, and M is a cation. Still another class of anionic synthetic surfactants includes succinamates, olefin sulfonates of 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and b-alkyloxyalkane sulfonates. Examples of these materials are sodium lauryl sulfate and ammonium lauryl sulfate.

Other useful materials herein are soaps (i.e. alkali metal salts, e.g. sodium or potassium salts) of fatty acids, typically having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably having 10 to 20 carbon atoms. The fatty acids used for soap making are obtained from natural sources such as glycerides derived from plants or animals (e.g. palm oil, coconut oil,

• · • · • · · soybean oil, castor oil, tallow, lard, etc.) Fatty acids can also be produced synthetically.

Soaps are described in detail in the above-cited U.S. Patent No. 4,557,853.

Other useful anionic materials include phosphates such as monoalkyldialkyl and trialkyl phosphate salts.

Other anionic materials include alkanoyl sarcosinates of the general formula RCON(CH3)CH2CH2CO2M, where R is an alkyl or alkenyl group of 10 to 20 carbon atoms and M is a water-soluble cation such as ammonium, sodium, potassium and alkanolamine cations (e.g. triethanolamine), preferred examples being sodium lauryl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, ammonium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium myristoyl sarcosinate. TEA salts of sarcosinates are also useful.

Taurates based on taurine, which is also known as

2-aminoethanesulfonic acid. Taurates having a carbon chain length of C8 to C16 are particularly useful. Examples of taurates include N-alkyltaurines such as the reaction product of dodecylamine with sodium isethionate according to U.S. Patent No. 2,658,072, the reference to which is incorporated herein in its entirety. Other non-limiting examples include the ammonium, sodium, potassium and alkanolamine (e.g. triethanolamine) salts of lauroylmethyltaurate, myristoylmethyltaurate and cocoylmethyltaurate.

Lactylates are also useful, particularly lactylates having a carbon chain length of C8 to C16. Non-limiting examples of lactylates include the ammonium, sodium, potassium, and alkanolamine (e.g., triethanolamine) salts of lauroyllactylate, cocoylactylate, lauroyllactylate, and caproyllactylate.

Also useful as anionic surfactants herein are glutamates, particularly glutamates having a carbon chain length of C8 to C16. Non-limiting examples of glutamates include the ammonium, sodium, potassium, and alkanolamine (e.g., triethanolamine) salts of lauroyl glutamate, myristoyl glutamate, and cocoyl glutamate.

Non-limiting examples of preferred anionic foaming surfactants useful in the present invention include anionic foaming surfactants selected from the group consisting of sodium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium laureth sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, sodium trideceth sulfate, ammonium cetyl sulfate, sodium cetyl sulfate, ammonium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauroyl isethionate, sodium lauroyl lactylate, triethanolamine lauroyll lactylate, sodium caproyl lactylate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl methyl taurate, sodium cocoyl methyl taurate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, and sodium cocoyl glutamate, and mixtures thereof.

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Particularly preferably used herein are ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium laureth sulfate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl lactylate and triethanolamine lauroyl lactylate.

Nonionic foaming surfactants

Non-limiting examples of nonionic foaming surfactants useful in the compositions of the present invention are described by McCutcheon in Detergents and Emulsifiers, North American edition (1986), published by Allured Publishing Corporation, and McCutcheon in Functional Materials, North American Edition (1992), both references being incorporated herein in their entirety.

Nonionic foaming surfactants useful herein include nonionic foaming surfactants selected from the group consisting of alkyl glucosides, alkyl polyglucosides, polyhydroxy fatty acid amides, alkoxylated fatty acid esters, sucrose foaming esters, amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.

Useful in the present invention are alkyl glucosides and alkyl polyglucosides, which are generally defined as condensation products of long chain alcohols, e.g., C8-C30 alcohols with sugars or starches or with sugar or starch polymers, i.e., glycosides or polyglycosides. They are compounds of the general formula (S) _n -OR, where S is a sugar group such as glucose, fructose, mannose, and galactose, n is an integer from 1 to 1000, and R is a C8-C30 alkyl group. Examples of long chain alcohols from which the alkyl group is derived include decyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and the like. Preferred examples of these surfactants have a glucose group as S, R is a C8-C20 alkyl group and n is an integer of 1 to 9. Commercially available examples of these surfactants include decyl polyglucoside (such as AGP 325 CS supplied by Henkel) and lauryl polyglucoside (such as AGP 600 CS and 625 CS supplied by Henkel). Sucrose esters such as sucrose cocoate and sucrose laurate are also useful surfactants.

Other useful nonionic surfactants include polyhydroxy fatty acid amides, specific examples include glucosamines of the general formula I

OR ¹ , II I

RCN — (I) where R ¹ is H, C1-C4 alkyl group, 2-hydroxyethyl group,

2-hydroxypropyl group, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl or ethyl group, most preferably a methyl group; R ² is a C5-C31 alkyl or alkenyl group, preferably a C7-C19 alkyl or alkenyl group, more preferably a C9-C17 alkyl or « · · · 4 • · · · 4 4

4 4 4 4

4 4 4 4 4

4 4 4 4

444 44 44 alkenyl group, most preferably C11-C15 alkyl or alkenyl group; and Z is a polyhydroxyhydrocarbyl group with a linear hydrocarbon chain with at least 3 hydroxyl groups directly attached to the chain, or an alkoxylated derivative (preferably an ethoxy- or propoxy derivative). Z is preferably a sugar group selected from the group consisting of glucose, fructose, maltose, lactose, galactose, mannose, xylose and mixtures thereof. A particularly preferred surfactant of the above structure is coconut alkyl-N-methylglucosamide (i.e., the R ² CO- group is derived from coconut oil fatty acids). Methods of making compositions containing polyhydroxy fatty acid amides are described, for example, in GB Patent Specification 809,060, issued February 18, 1959 (Thomas Hedley & Co., Ltd.), in U.S. Patent No. 2,965,576 (ER Wilson), issued December 20, 1960, in U.S. Patent No. 2,703,798 (AM Schwartz), issued March 8, 1955, and in U.S. Patent No. 1,985,424 (Piggott), issued December 25, 1934, the references of which are incorporated herein in their entirety.

Other examples of nonionic surfactants include amine oxides. Amine oxides have the general formula RiR ₂ R ₃ N->O, where Ri contains an alkyl, alkenyl or monohydroxyalkyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, 0 to 10 ethylene oxide groups and 0 to 1 glyceryl group and R ₂ and R ₃ contain 1 to 3 carbon atoms and 0 to 1 hydroxy group, e.g. methyl, ethyl, propyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl radical. The arrow in the general formula conventionally indicates a semipolar bond. Examples of amine oxides useful in the present invention include dimethyldodecylamine oxide, oleyldi(2-hydroxyethyl)amine oxide, dimethyloctylamine oxide, dimethyldecylamine oxide, dimethyltetradecylamine oxide, 3,6,9-trioxaheptadecyldiethylamine oxide, di(2-hydroxyethyl)tetradecylamine oxide, 2-dodecoxyethyldimethylamine oxide,

3-dodecoxy-2-hydroxypropyldi(3-hydroxypropyl)amine oxide, dimethylhexadecylamine oxide.

Non-limiting examples of preferred nonionic surfactants useful in the present invention are selected from the group consisting of Cg-Cu glucosamides, Cg-Cu alkyl polyglucosides, sucrose cocoate, sucrose laurate, lauramine oxide, cocoamine oxide, and mixtures thereof.

Amphoteric foaming surfactants

The term "amphoteric foaming surfactant" is also used herein to refer to zwitterionic surfactants, which are well known to those skilled in the art as a subgroup of amphoteric surfactants.

A wide variety of amphoteric foaming surfactants are useful in the compositions of the present invention. Particularly useful are derivatives of aliphatic secondary and tertiary amines, preferably with a cationic nitrogen, where the aliphatic radicals have a direct or ¥···· « · · · • · · 99 9 9 · • · 9 · 9

9 1 · 9 9 9

9 9 9 9 9 19 9

991 99 999 999 19 9» branched chain and where one of the radicals contains an ionizable water-soluble group, e.g. a carboxy group, a sulfonate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

Non-limiting examples of amphoteric surfactants useful in the compositions of the present invention are described in McCutche's Detergents and Emulsifiers, North American edition (1986), published by Allured Publishing Corporation, and in McCutcheon's Functional Materials, North American Edition (1992), both references being incorporated herein in their entirety.

Non-limiting examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are selected from the group consisting of betaines, sultaines, hydroxysultaines, alkyliminoacetates, iminodialkanoates, aminoalkanates, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of betaines include higher alkyl betaines such as cocodimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, lauryldimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, lauryldimethylalphacarboxyethylbetaine, cetyldimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, cetyldimethylbetaine (such as Lonzaine 16SP available from Lonza Corp.), laurylbis-(2-hydroxyethyl)carboxymethylbetaine, oleyldimethylgammacarboxypropylbetaine, laurylbis-(2-hydroxypropyl)alphacarboxyethylbetaine, cocodimethylsulfopropylbetaine, lauryldimethylsulfoethylbetaine, laurylbis-(2-hydroxyethyl)sulfopropylbetaine, amidobetaines and amidosulfobetaines (where the radical RCONH( _CH2 )3 is attached to the nitrogen atom of the betaine), oleylbetaine (such as amphoteric Velvetex OLB-50 available from Henkel) and cocamidopropylbetaine (such as Velvetex BK-35 and BA-35 available from Henkel).

Examples of sultaines and hydroxysultaines include materials such as cocapropylhydroxysultaine (as Mirataine CBS supplied by Rhone-Poulenc).

Preferred use in the present invention is for amphoteric surfactants of the general formula II

OR ²

R ¹ -(C—NH—(CH ₂ ) _m )„-N — R ⁴ -X· (II)

R ³ where R ¹ is an unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated straight or branched chain alkyl group having 9 to 22 carbon atoms. Preferably, R ¹ has 11 to 18 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, even more preferably 14 to 18 carbon atoms, m is an integer of 1 to 3, more preferably 2 to 3, even more preferably 3, n is either 0 or 1, preferably is 1, R and R are independently selected from the group consisting of alkyl groups with 1 to 3 carbon atoms, unsubstituted or monosubstituted by hydroxy, preferably R and R are CH3, X is selected from the group consisting of CO ₂ , SO3 and SO4, R ⁴ is selected from the group consisting of to · to · · to to to ·· · «· * to · to to • « · • to · toto • to saturated or unsaturated straight or branched alkyl groups with 1 to 5 carbon atoms, unsubstituted or monosubstituted by hydroxy. When X is CO2, preferably ^R4 has 1 to 3 carbon atoms, more preferably 1 carbon atom. When X is SO3 or SO4, preferably ^R4 has 2 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably 3 carbon atoms.

Examples of amphoteric surfactants of the present invention include the following compounds.

Cetyldimethylbetaine (this substance also has the CTFA designation cetylbetaine) of formula III CH ₃

C ₁₆ H ₃₃ -N—CH ₂ -CO ₂ ' (III)

CH ₃

Cocamidopropyl betaine of general formula IV

About ₃

1+

RC-NH-(CH ₂ ) ₃ -N—CH ₂ —CO ₂ (IV) ch ₃ where R has 9 to 13 carbon atoms.

Cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine of general formula V

O CH ₃ OH

II 1+ I

RC-NH-(CH ₂ ) ₃ -N—CH ₂ —CH-CH ₂ -SO ₃ ' (V) ch ₃ where R has 9 to 13 carbon atoms.

Examples of other useful amphoteric surfactants are alkyl iminoacetates and iminodialkanoates and aminoalkanoates of the general formulas RN[(CH2) _m CO2M] ₂ and RNH(CH2) _m CO ₂ M, where m is 1 to 4, R is a C8-C22 alkyl or alkenyl group and M is H, an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal, an ammonium cation or an alkanolamine. Imidazoline and ammonium derivatives are also included. Specific examples of suitable amphoteric surfactants include sodium 3-dodecylaminopropionate, sodium 3-dodecylaminopropanesulfonate, N-higher alkylaspartic acids as described in U.S. Patent 2,438,091, incorporated herein by reference, and the products sold under the trade name "Miranol" and described in U.S. Patent 2,528,378, incorporated herein by reference. Other examples of useful amphoteric surfactants include amphoteric phosphates such as coamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate (commercially available as Monaquat PTC from Mona Corp.). Amphoacetates such as disodium lauroamphodiacetate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, and mixtures thereof are also useful.

• · ·· · ·· · • t • · • · · ·· · 9 9

9 9

9 9

9 9

9 9

Preferred foaming surfactants useful herein are anionic foaming surfactants selected from the group consisting of ammonium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium trideceth sulfate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, ammonium laureth sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, ammonium cocoyl isethionate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauroyl isethionate, sodium cetyl sulfate, sodium lauroyl lactylate, sodium laureth sulfate, triethanolamine lauroyll lactylate, and mixtures thereof; nonionic foaming surfactants selected from the group consisting of lauramine oxide, cocoamine oxide, decyl polyglucose, lauryl polyglucose, sucrose cocoate, C12-C14 glucosamides, sucrose laurate, and mixtures thereof; and amphoteric foaming surfactants selected from the group consisting of disodium lauroamphodiacetate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, cetyldimethylbetaine, cocoamidopropylbetaine, cocoamidopropylhydroxysultaine, and mixtures thereof.

Foam volume test

The compositions of the present invention contain an amount of foaming surfactant sufficient to generate more than 30 ml, preferably more than 50 ml, more preferably more than 75 ml, and most preferably more than 150 ml of average foam volume. Average foam volume is measured by determination in the Foam Volume Test. This test provides a consistent measurement of the volume of foam/suds generated by the products described herein. The Foam Volume Test protocol is described below.

1) Before performing the test, wash your hands with white soap (Ivory bar). This step will remove any dirt that could affect the accuracy of the test.

2) The test product is held open in the non-dominant hand with the corners bent upwards.

3) Using a 10cc syringe or Brinkmann pipette, add 10 ml of water (medium hardness 8 to 10 grains per gallon at 95°C) to the test product.

4) Foam is then generated by rubbing the test product with the dominant hand in a circular motion of the palms for 6 seconds (2 rotations per second) using moderate pressure (4 oz) and allowing the product to roll between the palms.

5) The test product is then held open in the non-dominant hand and an additional 10 ml of water (medium hardness 8 to 10 grains per gallon at 95°C) is added to the test product using a 10cc syringe or Brinkmann repeat pipette. The moistened product is again rubbed with the dominant hand (3 rotations) using moderate force (4 oz) so that the test product is rolled between the palms.

6) The test product is then opened and rubbed 5 times, holding one corner of the product in one hand and rotating the hand holding the other side to activate additional foam.

« 99 99

9 99 9

9 9 9 9

9 9 9 9 9

9 9 9 9

7) The product under test is then turned over and the procedure according to step 6 is repeated with the other hand.

8) Foam is collected by holding the test product in a cup with one hand and wiping the foam off the test product with the other hand, wiping the foam off the test product only. The foam from the test product is placed in a measuring cylinder or cup large enough to contain the generated foam. This procedure is repeated 5 times with the same test product and the foam from each repetition is placed in the same measuring cylinder or cup. The foam volume is determined as the total foam collected from these repetitions.

9) To achieve consistent results, the Average Foam Volume is determined as the average of three replicates of the test sample in steps 1 through 8.

Active ingredients for skin care

The personal care products of the present invention essentially contain a safe and effective amount of a skin care active ingredient, which includes at least one skin care active selected from the group consisting of water-soluble skin care actives, oil-soluble skin care actives, pharmaceutically acceptable salts, and mixtures thereof. The term "skin care active" herein refers to personal care actives that are beneficial to the skin and/or hair and that are not generally used to achieve a beneficial conditioning effect, as defined below. The term "safe and effective amount" herein refers to an amount of skin care active sufficient to modify the condition being treated or to provide the desired beneficial care to the skin, but low enough to avoid serious side effects, with a reasonable benefit-risk ratio within the scope of medical medical judgment. The term "skin care benefit" herein refers to the beneficial therapeutic, prophylactic and/or chronic effects associated with the treatment of a given condition by one or more of the skin care actives described herein. The safe and effective amount of a skin care active ingredient will vary from one skin care active to another, will also vary with the ability of the active ingredient to penetrate the skin, the age, health and skin condition of the consumer, and other factors. The products of the present invention preferably contain 0.001 to 50 wt. %, more preferably 0.01 to 25 wt. %, even more preferably 0.05 to 10 wt. %, and most preferably 0.1 to 5 wt. % of the skin care active ingredient based on the weight of the water-insoluble substrate.

The skin care active ingredient of the present invention comprises a water-soluble skin care active, an oil-soluble skin care active, or a

M·· • 9

9 · ·· »9 · 9 9 ·· ♦

9 9 9*9

9 9 9 9 9 9

9 9 9 9 9 • 99 «99 *9 99 skin, skin care emulsion or any combination or permutation thereof. The oil-soluble skin care active is selected from one or more oil-soluble skin care actives such that the arithmetic weight average solubility index of the oil-soluble skin care active is less than or equal to 10.5. The water-soluble skin care active is selected from one or more water-soluble skin care actives such that the arithmetic weight average solubility index of the water-soluble conditioning agent is greater than 10.5. Based on the mathematical definition of solubility indices, it is known that it is possible, for example, to achieve a desired arithmetic weight average solubility index of less than or equal to 10.5 for an oil-soluble skin care active comprising two or more compounds if one of the compounds has an individual solubility index greater than 10.5. Conversely, it is possible to achieve a desired arithmetic weight average solubility index of greater than 10.5 for a water-soluble skin care active comprising two or more compounds if one of the compounds has an individual solubility index of less than or equal to 10.5.

Solubility indices are well known to those skilled in the art and are commonly used as guides to determine the compatibility and solubility of materials in formulation processes. The solubility index of a chemical compound δ is defined as the square root of the cohesive energy density of the compound. Typically, the solubility index for a compound is calculated from tabulated values of the contributions of additive groups to the heat of vaporization and the molar volume of the components of the compound using the relationship ?Ei j_ ?mi

1/2 where Σ, Ej is the sum of the contributions of the additive groups to the heat of vaporization and Σ; m, is the sum of the contributions of the additive groups to the molar volume.

Tabulated standards for the contributions of additive groups to the heat of vaporization and the contributions of additive groups to the molar volume for many different atoms and groups of atoms are given in Barton A.F.M., Handbook of Solubility Parameters, CRC Press, Chapter 6, Table 3, pp. 64-66 (1985), the reference being incorporated herein in its entirety. The above relationship for the solubility index is described in Fedors R.F., “A Method for Estimating Both the φ

Solubility Parameters and Molar Volumes of Liquids", Polymer Engineering and Science,

Volume 14, No. 2, pp. 147-154 (February 1974), reference incorporated herein in its entirety.

Solubility indices obey the law of mixtures, so that the solubility index of materials is given by the weighted arithmetic mean (i.e., weighted average) of the solubility indices of the individual components of a given mixture. See Handbook of Chemistry and Physics, 57th ed., CRC Press, pp. C-726 (1976-1977), incorporated herein in its entirety.

Those skilled in the art typically report and use solubility indices in units of (cal/cm ). The tabulated values of the contributions of additive groups to the heat of vaporization in the Handbook of Solubility Parameters are reported in units of kJ/mol. These tabulated values of the heat of vaporization are easily converted to cal/mol using the well-known relationship:

J/mol = 0.239006 cal/mol and 1000 J = 1 kJ. See Gordon A.J. et al in The Chemist's Companion, John Wiley & Sons, pp. 456-463 (1972), the reference is incorporated herein in its entirety. Solubility indices are also tabulated for many different chemical materials. The Handbook of Solubility Parameters, cited above, provides tables of solubility indices. See also "Solubility Effects In Product, Package, Penetration, And Preservation", C.D. Vaughan, Cosmetics and Toiletries, vol. 103, October 1988, pp. 47-69, the reference is incorporated herein in its entirety.

Using the information described above, one skilled in the art can determine the solubility indices of the skin care active ingredients described below.

The skin care active ingredients useful in the present invention are classified according to their therapeutic benefit or their intended mode of action. It is understood, however, that the active ingredients useful in the present invention may in some cases exhibit more than one therapeutic benefit or be effective in more than one manner. Accordingly, the classifications provided herein are conventional and do not limit the active ingredient to a single application or applications disclosed. Also useful in the present invention are pharmaceutically acceptable salts of these active ingredients. The following active ingredients are useful in the compositions of the present invention.

According to the present invention, many different skin care active ingredients are useful, among them those selected from the group consisting of anti-acne actives, anti-wrinkle actives, anti-skin atrophy actives, skin barrier repair adjuvants, soothing cosmetic adjuvants, topical anesthetics, artificial tanning and accelerating agents, skin lightening actives, • 4

4

44 • · antimicrobial and antifungal active substances, active substances protecting against sunlight, sebum stimulants, sebum inhibitors and mixtures thereof.

Active ingredients against acne

Anti-acne active ingredients may be effective in treating acne vulgaris, a chronic disorder of the sebaceous hair follicles. This condition leads to inflammation of the pilosebaceous system, resulting in lesions that include pimples, blackheads, cysts, comedones, and more serious scarring. The bacteria Corynebacterium acnes and Staphylococcus epidermis are commonly present in the contents of acne.

Non-limiting examples of useful anti-acne actives include keratolytics such as salicylic acid (o-hydroxybenzoic acid), salicylic acid derivatives such as 5-octanoylsalicylic acid and 4-methoxysalicylic acid and resorcinol; retinoids such as retinoic acid and its derivatives (e.g. cis and trans); D and L sulfur-containing amino acids and their derivatives and salts, especially their N-acetyl derivatives, a preferred example being N-acetyl-L-cysteine; lipoic acid; antibiotics and antimicrobial agents such as benzoyl peroxide, octopirox, tetracycline, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3,4,4'-trichlorobanilide, azelaic acid and its derivatives, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, ethyl acetate, clindamycin and meclocycline; sebostatics such as flavonoids and bioflavonoids; bile salts such as skymmol sulfate and its derivatives, deoxycholate and cholate; abietic acid; adapalene; allantoin; zaloe extracts; arbietic acid and its salts; ASEBIOL (available from Laboratories Serobiologiques, located in Somerville, N.J.); azalea acid; barberry extracts; berberine extracts; belamcanda chinensis; benzoquinolinones; berberine; BIODERMINE (available from Sederma, located in Brooklyn, NY); bisabolol; S-carboxymethylcysteine; carrot extracts; cassia oil; clove extracts; citral; citronellal; CREMOGEN M82 (available from Dragoco, located in Totowa, N.J.); cucumber extracts; dehydroacetic acid and its salts; dehydroeplandersterone salicylate; dichlorophenylimidazoledioxolane, which is commercially available as COMPLETECH MBAC-OS (from Lípo of Paterson, NJ); DL valine and its esters; DMDM hydantoin; erythromycin; escinol; ethylhexylmonoglyceryl ether; ethyl-2-hydroxyundecanoate; famesol; famesol acetate; geranoyl; glabridin; gluconic acid; gluconolactone; glycerylmonocaprate; glycolic acid; grapefruit seed extract; gugulipid; hesperitin; hinokitol; hop extract; hydrogenated resin; 10-hydroxydecanoic acid; ichthyol; interleukin 1-alpha antagonists; ketoconazole; lactic acid; lemongrass essential oil; linoleic acid

• 0 • ·»00 » • « · · 0 · • · · • 0 0 ·

0 0 »

000 00 000 0

00 acid; LIPACIDE C8C0 (available from Seppic based in Paris, France); lovastatin; metronidazole; minocycline; mukurossi; nemsed oil; vitamin B3 compounds (such as niacinamide and nicotinic acid); nisin; octopirox; panthenol; 1-pentadecanol; peony extract; peppermint extract; philodendron extract; 2-phenylbenzothiophene derivatives; phloretin; PHLOROGINE (available from Secma); phosphatidylcholine; proteolytic enzymes; quercetin; red sandalwood extract; rosemary extract; rutin; sage extract; coneflower extract; Siberian hegner extract; Siberian loam extract; siliconol; sodium lauryl sulfate; sodium sulfacetamide; sorbic acid; sulfur; sunder vati extract; tea tree oil; tetracycline; tetrahydroabietic acid; thymus extract; thioxolone; tocopherol; trehalose-6-undecylenoate; 3-tridecen-2-ol; tropolone; UNITRIENOL T27 (available from Unichem based in Gouda, The Netherlands); vitamin D3 and its analogues; white thyme essential oil; wogonin; Ylang Ylang; zinc glycerolate; zinc linolenate; zinc oxide; zinc pyrithione; zinc sulfate and mixtures thereof.

Antimicrobial and antifungal active substances

Antimicrobial and antifungal active substances act preventively against the proliferation and growth of bacteria and fungi. Non-limiting examples of antimicrobial and antifungal active agents include β-lactam drugs, quinolone drugs, ciprofloxacin, norfloxacin, tetracycline, erythromycin, amikacin, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3,4,4-trichlorobanilide, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, doxycycline, capreomycin, chlorhexidine, chlortetracycline, oxytertracycline, clindamycin, ethambutol, hexamidine isethionate, metronidazole, pentamidine, gentamicin, kanamycin, lineomycin, methacycline, methenamine, minocycline, neomycin, netilmicin, paromomycin, streptomycin, tobramycin, miconazole, tetracycline hydrochloride, erythromycin, erythromycin zinc, erythromycin estolate, erythromycin stearate, amikacin sulfate, doxycycline hydrochloride, capreomycin sulfate, chlorhexidine gluconate, chlorhexidine hydrochloride, chlortetracycline hydrochloride, oxytetracycline hydrochloride, clindamycin hydrochloride, ethimbutol hydrochloride, metronidazole hydrochloride, pentamidine hydrochloride, gentamicin sulfate, kanamycin sulfate, lineomycin hydrochloride, methacycline hydrochloride, methenamine hippurate, methenamine mandelate, minocycline hydrochloride, neomycin sulfate, netilmicin sulfate, paromomycin sulfate, streptomycin sulfate, tobramycin sulfate, miconazole hydrochloride, amanfadine hydrochloride, amanfadine sulfate, octopirox, parachlormetaxylenol, nystatin, zinc pyrithione; clotrimazole; alantolactone; isoalantolactone; alkanet extract (alanine); anise;

φφφφ « φ φφ φφ • · 9 · Φ · * Φ Φ · Φ « · φ Φ Φ Φ Φ « • ΦΦ Φ · Φ Φ Φ Φ Φ

ΦΦΦ Φ Φ φφφφ

ΦΦΦ ΦΦΦ ΦΦΦ ΦΦΦ ·· ΦΦ Arnica extract (helenalin acetate and 11,13-dihydrohelenalin); Aspidium extract (phloroucinol-containing extract); Berberine extract (berberine chloride); Baysweet extract; Laurel bark extract (myricitrin); Benzalkonium chloride; Benzethonium chloride; Benzoic acid and its salts; Benzoin; Benzyl alcohol; Milk thistle; Bletilla tuber; Bloodroot; Bois de rose essential oil; Burdock; Butylparaben; Cadastral oil; CAE (available from Ajinomoto, Teaneck, NJ); Cajeput essential oil; Cangzhu; Cumin essential oil; Cascarilla bark (sold under the brand name ESSENTIAL OIL); Cedar leaf essential oil; Chamomile; Chaparral; Chlorhexidine gluconate; Chlorphenesin; Chlorxylenol; Cinnamon essential oil; Citronella essential oil; Clove essential oil; dehydroacetic acid and its salts; dill seed oil; DOWICIL 200 (available from Dow Chemical, Midland, MI); echinacea; elenolic acid; epimedium; ethylparaben; Fo-Ti; galbanum; bloodroot; GERMALL 115 and GERMALL II (available from ISP-Sutton Labs, Wayne, NJ); German chamomile oil; giant knotweed; GLYDANT (available from Lonza, Fairlawn, NJ); GLYDANT PLUS (available from Lonza); grapefruit seed oil; hexamidine diisethionate; hinokitiol; honey; honeysuckle; hops; yarrow; iodopropylbutylurea (available from Lonza); isobutylparaben; isopropylparaben; JM ACTICARE (available from Microbial Systems International, Nottingham, NG); hemlock; KATHON CG (available from Rohm & Haas, Philadelphia, PA); labdanum; lavender; lemon balm essential oil; East Indian grass; methylparaben; mint; mume; mustard; myrrh; nemesia essential oil; orthophenylphenol; olive leaf; parsley; patchouli essential oil; peony root; PHENONIP (available from Nipa Labs, Wilmington, DE); phenoxyethanol; pine needle essential oil; PLANSERVATIVE (available from Campo Research); propylparaben; purslane; quilaira; rhubarb; rose geranium essential oil; rosemary; sage; salicylic acid; sassafras; savory; Sichuan lovage; sodium metabisulfite; sodium sulfite; SOPHOLIANCE (available from Soliance, Compiegne, France); sorbic acid and its salts; stevia; styrax; tannic acid; tea; Teatree essential oil (cajeput oil); thyme; triclosan; triclocarban; tropolone; turpentine; umbelliferone (antifungal); yucca; zinc pyrithione; and mixtures thereof.

Anti-wrinkle active ingredients and active ingredients against skin atrophy

Anti-wrinkle actives and anti-skin atrophy actives are effective in nourishing or rejuvenating the epidermal layer. These actives generally provide beneficial care for the skin by promoting or maintaining the natural desquamation process. Non-limiting examples of anti-wrinkle actives and anti-skin atrophy actives include retinoic • »«« * • · 9 • *

4 9 • 99 • 4 9 99

99 99

9999

9 4 9 4 «· 9 9 9

9 4 9 9

49« 99 99 acid and its derivatives (e.g. cis and trans); retinal; retinol; retinyl esters such as retinyl acetate, retinyl palmitate and retinyl propionate; vitamin B3 compounds (such as niacinamide and nicotinic acid); salicylic acid and its derivatives (such as 5-octanoylsalicylic acid); D and L sulfur-containing amino acids and their derivatives and salts, especially N-acetyl derivatives, a preferred example being N-acetyl-L-cysteine; thiols, e.g. ethanethiol; hydroxy acids, such as thiol, lipoic acid; lysophosphatidyl acid; skin peeling agents (e.g. phenol and the like); adapalene; ademethionine; adenosine; aletris extract; aloe-derived lectins; 3-aminopropyl dihydrogen phosphate; anise extracts; AOSINE (available from Secma); ASC III (available from E. Merck, Darmstadt, Germany); ascorbic acid; ascorbyl palmitate; asiatic acid; asiaticosides; ARLAMOL GEO™ (available from ICI, Wilmington, DE); azaleas; benzoic acid derivatives; bertholet extracts; betulinic acid; BIOCHANIN A and BIOPEPTIDE CL (available from Sederma, Brooklyn, NY); BIOPEPTIDE EL (available from Sederma); blackberry bark extract; blackberry lily extract; black bedbug extract; butanoylbetulinic acid; citric acid esters; chastetree extract; clove extracts; daidzein; debromlaurinterolum; 1-decanoyl-glycerophosphonic acid; dehydrocholesterol; dehydrodicreosol; dehydrodieugenol; dehydroepiandersterone; DERMOCLETINE (available from Sederma); dehydroascorbic acid; dehydroepiandersterone sulfate; dianethol; 2,4-dihydrobenzoic acid; diosgenin; disodium ascorbyl phosphate; dodecanedioic acid, estrogen and its derivatives; ethocyn; ELESERYL SH (available from Laboratories Serobiologiques, Somerville, NJ); ENDONUCLEINE (available from Laboratories Serobiologiques); ergosterol; eythrobic acid; fennel extract; fenugreek seed extract; FIBRASTIL (available from Sederma); FIBROSTIMULINES S and P (available from Sederma); FIRMOGEN LS 8445 (available from Laboratories Serobiologiques); formononetin; forsythia fruit extract; gallic acid esters; gamma-butyric acid; GATULINE RC (available from Gattlefosse, Priest, France); genistein; genistin; genistic acid; gingko biloba extracts; ginseng extracts; ginsenoside (RO, R ₆ -i, R 0-2, R 0-3, R c, R d, Re, R f, R f-2, R g-i, R g-2); glucopyranosyl-l-ascorbate; glutathione and its esters; hexahydrocurcumin; HMG coenzyme A reductase inhibitors; hop extracts; 11-hydroxyundecanoic acid; 10-hydroxydecanoic acid; 25-hydroxycholesterol; kinetin; L-2-OXO-thiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid esters; lactate dehydrogenase inhibitors; 1-lauryl;

that ···· • • it • it ·· · ·· it· • that that • • · • • • that that that * · · • • • · • • • • · · 9 • that • • • ·«· ·« ··· that·· this

lysophosphatidylcholine; licorice extracts; lumisterol; luteolin; magnesium ascorbyl phosphate; melatonin; metalloproteinase inhibitors; methoprene; methoprenic acid; MPC COMPLEX (available from CLR); N-methylserine; N-methyltaurine; N^-bislactylcysteamine; naringenin; neotigogenin; oleanolic acid; photoanethone; placental extracts; pratensein; pregnenolone; pregnenolone acetate; pregnenolone succinate; premarin; raloxifene; REPAIR FACTOR 1 and REPAIR FACTOR FCP (both available from Sederma); retinoates (esters of C2-C20 alcohols); retinyl glucuronate; retinyl linoleate; S-carboxymethylcysteine; SEANAMINE FP (available from Laboratories Serobiologiques); soybean extracts; spleen extracts; tachysterol; tazarotene; thymulen; thyme extracts; tigogenin; tocopheryl retinoate; traumatic acid; tricholine citrate; trifoside; ursolic acid; vitamin D3 and its analogues; yam extract; yamogenin; zeatin; and mixtures thereof.

Active ingredients for skin barrier repair

Skin barrier repair actives are those skin care actives that help repair and replenish the skin's natural moisture barrier function. Non-limiting examples of skin barrier repair actives include brassicasterol; caffeine; campesterol; canola-derived sterols; CERAMAX (available from Quest, Ashford, England); CERAMIDE 2 and CERAMIDE HO3™ (both available from Sederma); CERAMIDE II and CERAMIDE III (both available from Quest); IIIB (available from Cosmoferm, Deft, Netherlands); CERAMIDE LS 3773 (available from Laboratories Serobiologiques); CERAMINOL (available from Inocosm); cholesterol; cholesterol hydroxystearate; cholesterol isostearate; 7-dehydrocholesterol; DERMATEIN BRC and DERMATEIN GSL (both available from Hormel); ELDEW CL 301 and ELDEW PS 203 (both available from Ajinomoto); glycerylserinamide; lactic acid; lanolin alcohols; lanosterol; lauric acid N-laurylglucamide; lipoic acid; N-acetylcysteine; N-acetyl-L-serine; N-methyl-L-serine; vitamin B3 compounds (such as niacinamide and nicotinic acid); palmitic acid; panthenol; panthetine; phosphodiesterase inhibitors; PHYTO/CER (available from Intergen); phytoglycolipid millet extract (available from Bamet Products Distributer, Englewood, NJ); PHYTOSPHINGOSINE (available from Gist Brocades, King of Prussia, PA); PSENDOFILAGGRIN (available from Brooks Industries, South Plainfield, NJ); QUESTAMIDE H (available from Quest); serine; sigmasterol; sitosterol; soybean-derived sterols; sphingosine; S-lactoylglutathione; stearic acid; SUPER STEROL ESTERS (available from Croda); thioctic acid; THSC • · · · • · · • · ·

4 9

CERAMIDE OIL (available from Campo Research); trimethylglycine; tocopheryl nicotinate;

vitamin D ₃ ; Y2 (available from Oceab Pharmaceutical); and mixtures thereof.

Nonsteroidal cosmetic soothing active ingredients

Cosmetic soothing actives are effective in preventing or treating skin inflammation. The soothing active improves the appearance of the skin achieved by the beneficial treatment of the present invention, such agents contributing, for example, to a more uniform and acceptable skin tone or color. The precise amount of anti-inflammatory agents used in the present compositions will depend on the particular anti-inflammatory agent used, as the effectiveness of such agents varies. Non-limiting examples of cosmetic soothing agents include the following categories: propionic acid derivatives; acetic acid derivatives; fenamic acid derivatives; biphenylcarboxylic acid derivatives; and oxicams. All of these cosmetic soothing actives are fully described in U.S. Patent 4,985,459, Sunshine et al., issued January 15, 1991, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. Non-limiting examples of useful cosmetic soothing actives include acetylsalicylic acid; ibuprofen, naproxen, benoxaprofen, flurbiprofen, fenoprofen, fenbufen, ketorofen, indoprofen, pirprofen, carprofen, oxaprozin, pranoprofen, miroprofen, tioxaprofen, suprofen, alminoprofen, tiaprofen acid; fluprofen, bucloxic acid, absinthium, acacia, aescin, alder plantain extract, allantoin, aloe, APT (available from Centerchem), arnica, astragalus, astragalus root extract, azulene, Baikal coneflower, baizhu, Canada balsam, bee pollen, BIOPHYTEX (available from Laboratories Serobiologiques), bisabolol, black bugloss, black bugloss extract, blue bugloss, blue bugloss extract, boneset, borage, borage oil, bromelain, calendula, calendula extract, candelilla wax, Cangzhu, canola phytosterols, capsicum, carboxypeptidase, celery seed, celery stem extract, CENTAURIUM (available from Sederma), valerian extract, chamazulene, chamomile, chamomile extract, chaparral, chastetree, chastetree extract, chickweed, chives root, chicory root extract, chirata, chiishao, collodion oat flour, comfrey, comfrey extract, CROMOIST CM GLUCAN (available from Croda), dehurian angelica, elderberry, divalent metals (such as magnesium, strontium and manganese), wheatgrass, dogwood, eleuthero, ELHIBIN (available from Pentapharm), ENTELINE 2 (available from Secma), ephedra, epimedium, evening primrose, fireweed, Fangfeng, camomile, ficin, forsythia fruit, ganoderma, gaoben, gentian, germanium extract, ginkgo bilboa, ginkgo, ginseng extract, valerian, gorgon extract, gotu kola, grapefruit extract, guaiac wood essential oil, guggul extract, helenalin esters, henna, honeysuckle, apple extract, horse chestnut, horsetail, huzhang, hypericum, ichthyol, yarrow, ipecac, job's tears, jujube, kola extract, LANACHRYS 28 (available from Lana Tech), lemon essential oil, lianqiao, cinnamon rhizome, ligusticum, ligustrum, lovage root, loofah, mace flower, magnolia flower, manjistha extract, margaspidin, matricin, MICRO AT IRC (available from Nurture), mint, mistletoe, musk, oat extract, orange, panthenol, papain, peony bark, peony root, purslane, QUENCH T (available from Centerchem), quilaiu, red sage, rehmannia, rhubarb, rosemary, rosmarinic acid, royal jelly, rue, rutin, sandalwood, sankvi, sarsaparilla, sawpalmetto, SENSILINE (available from Silab), SIEGESBECKIA (available from Sederma), stearyl glycyrrhetinate, storax, birch oil, marigold, marigold, tea extract, thyme extract, tienchi ginseng, tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, turmeric, urimej, ursolic acid, white pine bark, hornbeam, xinyi, yarrow, yeast extract, yucca and mixtures thereof.

Agents causing and accelerating artificial tanning of the skin

Artificial skin tanning agents assist in simulating a natural tan by increasing melanin in the skin or giving the appearance of increased melanin in the skin. Non-limiting examples of artificial skin tanning agents that enhance skin color and accelerate skin tanning include dihydroxyacetone; tyrosine; tyrosine esters such as ethyl tyrosinate and glucose tyrosinate; acetyltyrosine; phospho-DOPA; brazilin; caffeine; coffee extracts; dihydroxyacetone; DNA fragments; isobutylmethylxanthine; methylxanthine; prostaglandins; tea extracts; theophylline; UNIPERTAN P2002 and UNIPERTAN P27 (both available from Unichem); and mixtures thereof.

Active ingredients for skin brightening

Skin lightening actives typically work by reducing the amount of melanin in the skin or by other mechanisms to achieve a similar effect. Skin lightening actives suitable for use in the present invention are described in copending patent application serial number 08/479,935 filed June 7, 1995 to Hillebrand, corresponding to PCT patent application serial number U.S. 95/07432, filed 6/12/95; and copending patent application serial number 08/390,152 filed February 24, 1995, to Kalia L. Kvalnes, Mitchell A. DeLong, Barton J. Bradbury, Curtis B. Motley and John D. Carter, corresponding to PCT patent application serial number U.S. 95/02809, filed 3/1/95, published 9/8/95; all references are incorporated herein by reference. Non-limiting examples of skin lightening actives useful in the present invention include adapalene, aloe extract, ammonium lactate, anethole derivatives, apple extract, arbutin, ascorbic acid, ascorbyl palmitate, azelaic acid, bamboo extract, berberine extract, bletilla tuber, bupleurum falcatum extract, bloodroot extract, butylhydroxyanisole, butylhydroxytoluene, Chuanxiong, Dang-Gui, deoxyarbutin, 1,3-diphenylpropane derivatives, 2,5-dihydroxybenzoic acid and its derivatives,

2-(4-acetoxyphenyl)-1,3-dithane, 2-(4-hydroxyphenyl)-1,3-dithane, ellagic acid, escinol, estragole derivatives, FADEOUT (available from Pentapharm), Fangfeng, fennel extract, ganoderma extract, gaoben, GATULINE WHITENING (available from Gattlefosse), genistic acid and its derivatives, glabridin and its derivatives, glucopyranosyl-l-ascorbate, gluconic acid, glycolic acid, green tea extract,

4-hydroxy-5-methyl-3[2H]-furanone, hydroquinone, 4-hydroxyanisole, and its derivatives, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid derivatives, hydroxycaprylic acid, inositol ascorbate, kojic acid, lactic acid, citric extract, linoleic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, MELAWHITE (available from Pentapharm), morus alba extract, mulberry root extract, niacinamide, 5-octanoylsalicylic acid, parsley extract, phellinus linteus extract, pyrogallol derivatives, retinoic acid, retinol, retinyl esters (acetate, propionate, palmitate, linoleate), 2,4-resorcinol derivatives, 3,5-resorcinol derivatives, rose fruit extract, salicylic acid, Song-Yi extract, 3,4,5-trihydroxybenzyl derivatives, tranexamic acid, vitamin D3 and its analogues, and their mixtures.

Active ingredients that protect against sunlight

Also useful in the present invention are sunscreen actives. Many sunscreen actives are described in U.S. Patent No. 5,087,445, Haffey et al., issued February 11, 1992; U.S. Patent No. 5,073,372, Turner et al., issued December 17, 1991; U.S. Patent No. 5,073,371, Turner et al., issued December 17, 1991; and Segarin et al., Chapter VIII, pages 189 et seq., Cosmetics Science and Technology, all references incorporated herein in their entirety. Non-limiting examples of sunscreen actives useful in the compositions of the present invention include 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate,

2-ethylhexyl-N,N-dimethyl-p-aminobenzoate, p-aminobenzoic acid,

2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, octocrylene, oxybenzone, homomenthyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, 4,4 '-methoxy-t-butyldibenzoylmethane, 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, • ·

3-benzylidenecamphor, 3-(4-methylbenzylidene)camphor, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, silicon dioxide, iron oxide, and mixtures thereof. Other useful sunscreen agents are disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 4,937,370, Sabatelli, issued June 26, 1990; and U.S. Patent No. 4,999,186, Sabatelli et al., issued March 12, 1991; both of which references are incorporated herein in their entirety. Still other useful sunscreens include aminobenzoic acid (PABA), butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, diethanolamine-p-methoxycinnamate, dioxybenzone, ethyldihydroxypropyl (PABA), glycerylaminobenzoate, homomenthyl salicylate, isopropyldibenzoylmethane, lawsone and dihydroxyacetone, menthyl anthranilate, methylanthranilate, octocrylene, octyldimethyl (PABA), octylmethoxycinnamate, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, red petrolatum, sulisobenzone, triethanolamine salicylate and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred examples of these sunscreens include those selected from the group consisting of esters

4- N,N-(2-ethylhexyl)methylaminobenzoic acid with 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 4-N,N-(2-ethylhexyl)methylaminobenzoic acid ester with 4-hydroxydibenzoylmethane, 4-N,N-(2-ethylhexyl)methylaminobenzoic acid ester with 2-hydroxy-4-(2-hydroxyethoxy)benzophenone, 4-N,N-(2-ethylhexyl)methylaminobenzoic acid ester with 4-(2-hydroxyethoxy)dibenzoylmethane and mixtures thereof.

The exact amounts of sunscreens used vary depending on the sunscreen selected and the desired Sun Protection Factor (SPF) to be achieved. SPF is a commonly used measure of a sunscreen's photoprotection against skin redness. See Federal Register, Vol. 43, No. 166, pp. 38206-38269, August 25, 1978, incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.

Sebum stimulators

Sebum stimulants increase sebum production in the sebaceous glands. These skin care actives are particularly useful for menopausal women who are sebaceous deficient. Non-limiting examples of sebum stimulating actives include bryonolic acid, dehydroethiandrosterone (also known as DHEA), oryzanol, and mixtures thereof.

Sebum inhibitors

Sebum inhibitors reduce sebum production in the sebaceous glands. Non-limiting examples of active ingredients that inhibit sebum production include ASEBIOL (available from Laboratories Serobiologiques), BIODERMINE (available from Sederma), COMPLETECH MBAC-OS

• · · · • · · ¥ ¥ ¥ ¥ ¥ ¥ ¥ ¥ ¥ (available from Lipo), cucumber extracts, dehydroacetic acid and its salts, dichlorophenylimidazoledioxolane, niacinamide, phloretin, PHLOROGINE (available from Secma),

S-carboxymethylcysteine, thioxolone, tocopherol, UNITRIENOL T27 (available from Unichem) and mixtures thereof.

Preferred examples of active agents useful in the present invention include active agents selected from the group consisting of salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide,

3-hydroxybenzoic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid,

4-hydroxybenzoic acid, acetylsalicylic acid, niacinamide, cis-retinoic acid, trans-retinoic acid, retinol, retinyl palmitate, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid,

2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, cis-retinoic acid, trans-retinoic acid, retinol, phytic acid, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, lipoic acid, azelaic acid, arachidonic acid, benzoyl peroxide, tetracycline, ibuprofen, naproxen, hydrocortisone, acetaminophen, resorcinol, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, octopirox, lidocaine hydrochloride, clotrimazole, miconazole, neocin sulfate, 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamic acid, oxybenzone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, dihydroxyacetone, panthenol, lactic acid, arbutin, kojic acid, allantoin, cholesterol, C10-C30 cholesterol/lanosterol esters, tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate and mixtures thereof.

The skin care active ingredient of the present invention may also comprise a skin care emulsion that provides beneficial care to the skin or hair. The term “skin care emulsion” is used herein to refer to a combination of a discontinuous phase formed by an aqueous component that is encapsulated by a continuous phase formed by an oil-soluble component.

The water-soluble component is formed by compounds selected from the group consisting of water, water-soluble skin care actives, water-soluble skin conditioning agents described below, and mixtures thereof. The oil-soluble component is formed by compounds selected from the group consisting of oil-soluble skin care actives, oil-soluble skin conditioning agents described below, and mixtures thereof. In a preferred embodiment, the skin care emulsion further comprises an emulsifier. The skin care emulsion represents 0.25 to 150 wt. %, preferably 0.5 to 100 wt. %, and more preferably 1 to 50 wt. %, based on the weight of the water-insoluble substrate.

Although the preferred emulsifier of the present invention is capable of forming an emulsion from a continuous and discontinuous phase, it is known in the art of skin care products that in water • ·

• 9 · 9

9 9 9 •99 9· 999 · a soluble skin care active can be coated with an oil-soluble skin care active without an emulsifier. If a water-soluble skin care active is coated with an oil-soluble agent and thus protected from being washed off during the cleansing process, such a composition falls within the scope of the present invention.

The discontinuous phase preferably contains other water-soluble or dispersible materials that do not adversely affect the stability of the skin care emulsion. One such material is a water-soluble electrolyte. The dissolved electrolyte minimizes the tendency of substances present in the lipid phase to also dissolve in the aqueous phase. Any electrolyte capable of imparting ionic strength to the internal phase can be used. Suitable electrolytes include water-soluble mono-, di- or trivalent inorganic salts such as water-soluble halides, e.g., chlorides, nitrates and sulfates of alkali and alkaline earth metals. Examples of such electrolytes include sodium chloride, calcium chloride, sodium sulfate, magnesium sulfate and sodium bicarbonate. A typical concentration of the electrolyte is in the range of 1 to 20% of the discontinuous phase.

Other water-soluble or dispersible substances present in the discontinuous phase include thickeners and viscosity modifiers. Suitable thickeners and viscosity modifiers include water-soluble polyacrylic and hydrophobically modified polyacrylic resins such as Carbopol and Pemulen, starches such as corn starch, potato starch, tapioca, gums such as guar gum, acacia gum, cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, and the like. Typical concentrations of these thickeners and viscosity modifiers are in the range of 0.05 to 0.5% of the discontinuous phase.

Other water-soluble or dispersant substances present in the discontinuous phase include polycationic polymers, which provide steric stabilization at the water-lipid interface, and nonionic polymers, which also stabilize the water-in-lipid emulsion. Suitable cationic polymers include RETEN 201, KYMENE 557H®, and ACCO 7112. Suitable nonionic polymers include polyethylene glycols (PEGs) such as CARBOWAX. Typical concentrations of these polycationic and nonionic polymers are in the range of 0.1 to 1.0% of the discontinuous phase.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the skin care emulsions comprise an emulsifier capable of forming a discontinuous and continuous phase emulsion. The emulsions of the present invention comprise an effective amount of emulsifier. What is an “effective amount” depends on many factors including the amount of oil-soluble agents present, the type of emulsifier used, the amount of impurities present in the emulsifier, and the like.

Typically, the emulsifier represents 0 to 20 wt.%, preferably 0.01 to 10 wt.%, and more preferably 0.1 to 6 wt.% of the weight of the skin care emulsion.

Typical emulsifiers useful in the present invention are oil-soluble substances or substances miscible with the continuous phase, particularly at the melting point of the oil-soluble substance. They also have a relatively low HLB value. Typical HLB values of emulsifiers useful in the present invention are in the range of 1 to 7 and may be mixtures of different emulsifiers. Preferably, the emulsifiers have HLB values in the range of 1.5 to 6, more preferably 2 to 5.

A wide variety of emulsifiers are useful in the present invention, including, but not limited to, sorbitan esters, glyceryl esters, polyglyceryl esters, methyl glucose esters, sucrose esters, ethoxylated fatty alcohols, hydrogenated castor oil ethoxylates, sorbitan ester ethoxylates, polymeric emulsifiers, and silicone emulsifiers.

Useful in the present invention are sorbitan esters. Sorbitan esters of C16-C22 saturated and unsaturated branched fatty acids are preferred. Due to the typical method of manufacture, these sorbitan esters usually contain mixtures of mono-, di-, tri-, etc. esters. Representative examples of suitable sorbitan esters include sorbitan monooleate (e.g., SPAN® 80), sorbitan sesquioleate (e.g., ARLACEL® 83), sorbitan monoisostearate (e.g., CRILL® 6, manufactured by Croda), sorbitan stearates (e.g., SPAN® 60), sorbitan trioleate (e.g., SPAN® 85), sorbitan tristearate (e.g., SPAN® 65), sorbitan dipalmitates (e.g., SPAN® 40), and sorbitan isostearate. Particularly preferred emulsifiers used in the present invention are sorbitan monoisostearate and sorbitan sesquioleate.

Other suitable emulsifiers used in accordance with the present invention include, but are not limited to, glyceryl monoesters, preferably glyceryl monoesters of C16-C22 saturated and unsaturated branched fatty acids such as glyceryl oleate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monopalmitate, glyceryl monobehenate and mixtures thereof; polyglyceryl esters of C16-C22 saturated and unsaturated branched fatty acids such as polyglyceryl-4-isostearate, polyglyceryl-3-oleate, diglycerol monooleate, tetraglycerol monooleate and mixtures thereof; methyl glucose esters, preferably methyl glucose esters of _C16 - _C22 saturated and unsaturated branched fatty acids such as methyl glucose dioleate, methyl glucose sesquiisostearate and mixtures thereof; fatty acid esters with sucrose, preferably sucrose esters of C12-C22 saturated and unsaturated branched fatty acids such as sucrose stearate, sucrose trilaurate, sucrose distearate (e.g. CRODESTA® F10) and mixtures thereof; hydrogenated castor oil ethoxylates such as PEG-7-hydrogenated castor oil; sorbitan ester ethoxylates such as PEG-40-sorbitan peroleate, Polysorbate-80 and mixtures thereof; polymeric emulsifiers such as ethoxylated dodecyl glycol copolymer; and silicone emulsifiers such as lauryl methicone copolyol, cetyl dimethicone, dimethicone copolyol and mixtures thereof.

In addition to these primary emulsifiers, the compositions of the present invention preferably contain a co-emulsifier which provides additional stability to the water-lipid emulsion. Suitable co-emulsifiers include, but are not limited to, phosphatidylcholines and phosphatidylcholine-containing compositions such as lecithins; long-chain C16-C22 dialiphatic quaternary ammonium salts and short-chain C1-C4 dialiphatic quaternary ammonium salts such as diiododimethylammonium methyl chloride and diiododimethylammonium methyl sulfate; long-chain C16-C22 dialkoyl(alkenoyl)-2-hydroxyethyl-dialiphatic quaternary ammonium salts and short-chain C1-C4 dialiphatic quaternary ammonium salts such as diiodo-2-hydroxyethyldimethylammonium chloride; long chain C16-C22 dialiphatic imidazolinium quaternary ammonium salts such as methyl-1-tallow o-amidoethyl-2-tallow-imidazolinium methyl sulfate and methyl-1-oleyl-amidoethyl-2-oleyl-imidazolinium methyl sulfate; short chain C1-C4 dialiphatic benzyl quaternary ammonium salts and long chain C16-C22 monoaliphatic benzyl quaternary ammonium salts such as dimethylstearylbenzylammonium chloride and synthetic phospholipids such as stearamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride (PHOSPHOLIPID PTS from Mona Industries).

Deposition promoting agents

The products of the present invention further comprise deposition promoting agents in an amount of 0.01 to 10 wt. %, preferably 0.05 to 7 wt. %, more preferably 0.10 to 5 wt. % and most preferably 0.15 to 2 wt. % based on the weight of the water-insoluble substrate. The deposition promoting agent is preferably water-soluble. “Water-soluble” means that the deposition promoting agent is water-soluble at a concentration of 0.1% water (distilled or equivalent) at 25°C, preferably at a concentration of 0.5%, more preferably at a concentration of 1.0%. Preferred embodiments of the present invention comprise a deposition promoting agent, particularly when using water-soluble skin care actives.

Without being limited by theory, it is believed that a deposition promoting agent improves the deposition of water-soluble conditioning agents onto the skin or hair during cleaning processes, and also aids in the adhesion of water-soluble conditioning agents to the skin and hair surface during rinsing. In general, it is believed that deposition promoting agents act in part or in whole by the following mechanisms: electrostatic attraction (mammalian skin has a negative charge); hydrophobic attraction, since skin is more hydrophobic than water; and substances that are dispersible in water in the presence of a surfactant but become water-insoluble during rinsing. One or more deposition promoting agents useful in the present invention are added to or impregnated into a substrate separately or in combination with either a surfactant or water-soluble conditioning agents. The deposition promoting agent may be cationic, nonionic, anionic or zwitterionic, preferably cationic or nonionic and more preferably cationic. Suitable deposition promoting agents useful in the present invention are described in U.S. Patent No. 5,588,752, issued November 18, 1997, Turner et al., U.S. Patent No. 5,624,666, issued April 29, 1997.

1997, Coffindaffer et al., U.S. Patent No. 5,635,469, issued June 3, 1997, Fowler et al., U.S. Patent No. 5,672,576, issued September 30, 1997, Behrens et al., U.S. Patent No. 5,716,920, issued February 10, 1998, Glenn, Jr. et al., U.S. Patent No. 5,720,964, issued February 24, 1998.

1998, Murray and U.S. Patent No. 5,714,446, issued February 3, 1998, Bartz et al., all references are incorporated herein in their entirety.

CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition, 1992, incorporated herein by reference in its entirety, describes a variety of deposition promoters useful in the present invention. Non-limiting examples of useful deposition promoters include cationic polymers, nonionic polymers, zeolites, kaolins, and mixtures thereof. Cationic polymers are particularly useful deposition promoters in the products of the present invention because they are believed to be able to associate with the negatively charged surface of the skin, thereby helping to retain the various components of the product on the skin surface. Furthermore, cationic polymers are believed to form coacervates (water-insoluble complexes) with the anionic surfactant.

Cationic polymers of the present invention have an average molecular weight of at least 5,000, typically at least 10,000 and at most 10,000,000. Preferably, the average molecular weight is in the range of 100,000 to 5,000,000, more preferably in the range of 200,000 to 2,000,000. Cationic polymers have cationic nitrogen groups such as quaternary ammonium groups or cationic amino groups, or mixtures thereof. Suitable cationic polymers are described in U.S. Patent No. 5,672,576, issued September 30, 1997, to Behrens et al. and U.S. Patent No. 5,720,964, issued February 24, 1998, to Murray, both references being incorporated herein in their entirety.

·· ·* ·© ©·

The cationic nitrogen group is generally present as a substituent on a portion of the total number of monomeric units of the cationic hair conditioning polymers. Thus, a cationic polymer includes copolymers, terpolymers, etc. of quaternary ammonium or cationic amino substituted monomeric units and other non-cationic units referred to herein as intercalated monomeric units. Such polymers are known in the art and many are found in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 3rd Edition, Estrin, Crosley and Haynes (The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association, Inc., Washington, D.C., 1982).

The cationic charge density is preferably at least 0.3 meq/gram, more preferably at least 0.6 meq/gram, even more preferably at least 1.0 meq/gram, and most preferably at least 1.2 meq/gram. The cationic charge density is generally 4 meq/gram or less, more generally 3.0 meq/gram or less. The cationic charge density of the cationic polymer is determined by the Kjeldahl method. Those skilled in the art will recognize that the charge density of polymers containing amino groups in the final product may vary depending on the pH and the isoelectric point of the amino groups. The charge density should fall within the above-specified limits at the pH expected during use.

Any anion can be used as a counterion for cationic polymers, provided that it meets the criteria of water solubility. Suitable counterions include halides (e.g., Cl, Br, I, or F, preferably Cl, Br, or I), sulfate, and methyl sulfate. Others are also possible, but the above list is not exhaustive.

As stated above, the cationic polymers of the present invention are water dispersible. This does not mean, however, that they must become soluble when the products of the present invention are wetted and foamed to form a foam. Preferably, however, these cationic polymers are either dispersible when the products described herein are wetted and foamed to form a foam, or act on a water-insoluble substrate with a precomplexed coacervate phase formed from the cationic polymer and an anionic substance. This complex coacervate phase is added to or impregnated into the substrate, independently or in combination with either a foaming surfactant or a water-soluble conditioning agent. Complex coacervates of cationic polymers are formed with anionic surfactants or anionic polymers, which are preferably added to the compositions herein (e.g., sodium polystyrene sulfonate). Complex coacervates are believed to deposit water-soluble conditioning agents more rapidly on the skin or hair. It is generally preferred that the cationic polymers present in/on the products of the present invention are present as a complex coacervate phase or form a coacervate phase upon dilution of the foam formed upon wetting and rubbing of the products. If the cationic polymers are not already in the form of coacervates in/on the products of the present invention, they preferably form a complex coacervate upon dilution.

The formation of coacervates depends on various criteria such as molecular weight, concentration and ratio of interacting ionic species, ionic strength (including modification of ionic strength by e.g. addition of salts), charge density of cationic and anionic species, pH and temperature. Coacervate systems and the effect of these parameters have been studied previously. See e.g. J. Caelles et al., “Anionic and Cationic Compounds in Mixed System”, Cosmetics Toiletries, Vol. 106, pp. 49-54, April 1991; Van Oss, “Coacervation, Complex-Coacervation and Flocculation”, J. Dispersion Science and Technology, Vol. 9 (5, 6), pp. 561-573, 1988-89; D.J. Burgess, “Practical Analysis of Complex Coacervate Systems”, J. of Colloid and Interface Science, Vol. 140, No. 1, pp. 227-238, November 1990; and U.S. Patent No. 5,716,920, Glenn Jr. et al., issued February 10, 1998; all references are incorporated herein in their entirety.

Methods for analyzing the formation of complex coacervates are known in the art. For example, microscopic analysis of the foam can be used to analyze the formation of the coacervate phase at any dilution. The coacervate phase is identifiable as another emulsified phase. The use of dyes helps to distinguish the coacervate phase from other insoluble phases dispersed in the foam.

Nonionic and cationic polymers useful in the present invention are derived from both natural and synthetic sources. Of the polymers derived from natural sources, polymers derived from cellulose and proteins are highly preferred. Of the synthetic polymers, polyethyleneimines and polyacrylamides are preferred. General classes of suitable deposition promoters for use in the products of the present invention include gums, hydrophilic colloids and derivatives thereof, biological polymers and derivatives thereof, synthetic polymers, polymer ethers, proteins and derivatives thereof, quaternary ammonium compounds, coacervates and mixtures thereof. The following are non-limiting examples of cationic and nonionic deposition promoters useful in the present invention.

Useful deposition promoting agents according to the present invention are gums, hydrophilic colloids, biological polymers and proteins and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of these substances include carboxymethylhydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylhydroxypropylguar, carrageenan, cellulose gum, gelatin, guar gum, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose,

• · 9 9 9 9 9 · • · 9 9 9 9

9 9 9 9 9 9

9 9 9 9 9

999 999 99 99 methylcellulose, xanthan gum, chitin, chitosan, hydroxypropylchitosan, potato starch, oat protein, milk protein, hydrolyzed cocoyl collagen, hydrolyzed cocoyl keratin, hydroxypropyltrimonium gelatin and mixtures thereof.

Useful deposition promoters of the present invention are also polymers derived from cellulose. The term “cellulose-derived polymers” is used herein to describe polymers containing a cellulose backbone, i.e. a polysaccharide backbone of repeating glucose units. In these cellulose-derived polymers, the hydroxy groups of the cellulose polymer are hydroxyalkylated (preferably hydroxyethylated or hydroxypropylated) to form a hydroxyalkylated cellulose, which is further modified with a quaternary ammonium or protonated ammonium group. Preferred cationic modifying groups have at least one C10-C20 alkyl chain and two shorter alkyl chains (i.e., C1 or C2) on the nitrogen. The substituent on the cellulose polymer is designated -(X)NRR'R", where X is a hydroxyalkyl group (preferably -OCH2CH2- or OCH2CHOHCH2-), R and R are methyl or ethyl groups and R is a C10-C20 alkyl group (preferably lauryl, stearyl or cocoyl, i.e. a mixture of alkyl groups derived from coconut oil). As for other alternative structures, it has been found that when R, R' and R are all methyl groups (i.e. triammonium group), useful cellulose polymers are also obtained. In still other alternative structures, the cationic substituent on the cellulose contains both a hydroxyethyl and a hydroxypropyl group, so that this group can be represented as -( _OCH2CH2O ) _{-CH2CHOHCH2NRR'R} '', where R, R' and R" are methyl or ethyl groups and R is a C10-C20 alkyl group (preferably lauryl, stearyl or cocoyl, i.e. a mixture of alkyl groups derived from coconut oil). stearyl or cocoyl group, i.e. a mixture of alkyl groups derived from coconut oil), or where R, R' and R are all methyl groups (i.e. a triammonium group).

Commercially available cationic modified celluloses include laurdiamonium hydroxyethyl cellulose (wherein X in the above formula is -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, R and R are methyl groups and R" is a lauryl group), steardiamonium hydroxyethyl cellulose (wherein X in the above formula is -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, R and R are methyl groups and R is a stearyl group) and cocodiamonium hydroxyethyl cellulose (wherein X in the above formula is -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, R and R' are methyl groups and R'' is a cocoyl group). These three are known under the trade names Crodacel QL, Crodacel QS and Crodacel QM and are commercially available from Croda Corp. Another very useful cationic cellulose is laurdiamonium hydroxypropyloxyethyl cellulose (wherein the modifying group on the cellulose is • 4944 4 · 4» 44

4 · 4 4 4 9 · ♦ » · • 4 4 · 4944

44 4 444999

444 4 9 4449

444 44 444 449 44 *«

-( _OCH2CH2O ) _{-CH2CHOHCH2NRR'R} , where R and R' are methyl groups and R is a lauryl group), which is commercially available from Croda Corp. as CRODACEL QL SPECIAL. Other useful cationic celluloses are available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison,

N.J., USA) from their POLYMER JR™, LR™ and LK™ polymer series, such as trimethylammonium epoxide-substituted hydroxyethyl cellulose salts, known in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 10; cationic cellulose ethers described in U.S. Patent Nos. 3,816,616 and 4,272,515, which are commercially available from Union Carbide Corp. under the trademark POLYMER JR; and polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with lauryldimethylammonium epoxide, known in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 24, which are commercially available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison,

N.J., USA) under the trade name POLYMER LM-200.

Other suitable cationic polymers useful in the present invention include guar gum derivatives, such as the cationic polygalactomannan gum derivative described in U.S. Patent No. 4,298,494, which is commercially available under the trademark JAGUAR; a hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium derivative of guar gum, which is commercially available under the trademark JAGUAR C-13-S and JAGUAR C-17 (CTFA designation guar-hydroxypropyltriammonium chloride); and a hydroxypropylated guar cationic derivative known as JAGUAR C-16 (commercially available from Celanese Corp. in their JAGUAR® series). Other materials include nitrogenous cellulose ethers (e.g., as described in U.S. Patent No. 3,962,418, incorporated herein by reference) and copolymers of etherified cellulose and starch (e.g., as described in U.S. Patent No. 3,958,581, incorporated herein by reference). Particularly preferred cationic polymers include Polyquaternium 10.

Related to these cellulosic polymers are polymers whose backbone is derived from other sugars (or related acids, alcohols, amines, etc.), e.g. galactose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, fucose, fructose, glucosamine, galactosamine, glucuronic acid, galacturonic acid, alcohols with 5- or 6-membered rings, and mixtures thereof.

Another type of useful derivative of naturally occurring polymers are protein-derived polymers. The protein-derived polymers useful in the present invention are derived from a variety of protein sources. However, polymers derived from hydrolyzed proteins (i.e., proteins broken down into lower molecular weight segments in the MW range of 1000 to 5000) are preferred. Hydrolyzed proteins are well known to those skilled in the art of cosmetic chemistry and are obtained by standard synthetic procedures such as acid, alkaline, or enzymatic hydrolysis of various protein sources. The protein sources used determine the final amino acid composition of the hydrolyzed proteins obtained. Non-limiting examples of hydrolyzed proteins useful as polymers according to the present invention include protein sources selected from the group consisting of hydrolyzed casein, hydrolyzed collagen, hydrolyzed conchiorin protein, hydrolyzed corn protein, hydrolyzed elastin, hydrolyzed fibronectin, hydrolyzed hair keratin, hydrolyzed human placental protein, hydrolyzed keratin, hydrolyzed potato protein, hydrolyzed rice protein, hydrolyzed silk, hydrolyzed soy protein, hydrolyzed vegetable protein, hydrolyzed wool protein, hydrolyzed wheat protein and mixtures thereof. These hydrolyzed proteins are described in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary. 1991, pp. 246-249, the reference is incorporated herein in its entirety.

Cationic modified hydrolyzed proteins have been shown to be very useful as polymers of the present invention. Using various synthetic procedures known to those skilled in the art of chemistry, the nitrogen atoms of the amino acids comprising these hydrolyzed proteins are hydroxyalkylated (preferably hydroxyethylated or hydroxypropylated) to form a hydroxyalkylated protein hydrolyzate, which is further modified with cationic quaternary ammonium or protonated ammonium groups. Preferred cationic modifying groups have at least one C10-C20 alkyl chain and two shorter alkyl chains (i.e., C1 or _C2 ) on the nitrogen. The substituent on the hydrolyzed protein is designated -(X)NRR'R, where X is a hydroxyalkyl group (preferably -OCH ₂ CH ₂ - or OCH ₂ CHOHCH ₂ -), R and R are methyl or ethyl groups, and R is a C 10 -C ₂₀ alkyl group (preferably lauryl, stearyl or cocoyl, i.e. a mixture of alkyl groups derived from coconut oil). As for other alternative structures, it has been shown that when R, R' and R are all methyl groups (i.e. triammonium group), useful hydrolyzed proteins are also obtained. Commercially available cationic modified protein hydrolysates include hydroxypropyltriammonium hydrolyzed casein, hydroxypropyltriammonium hydrolyzed collagen, hydrolyzed hydroxypropyltriammonium keratin, hydroxypropyltriammonium hydrolyzed silk, hydroxypropyltriammonium hydrolyzed soy protein, hydroxypropyltriammonium hydrolyzed vegetable protein, and hydroxypropyltriammonium hydrolyzed wheat protein, wherein in the ~(X)NRR'R substituent on each of these protein hydrolysates, X is a group • W ¥· ¥ ¥ ¥ • ¥ ♦ ¥ ¥ ¥ ¥ ¥ Λ ·· ¥¥ ♦

• ¥ • 1

OCH2CHOHCH2- and R, R' and R are methyl groups. These hydrolyzed proteins are described in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 1991, pp. 254-255, the reference being incorporated herein in its entirety. Other commercially available cationic protein hydrolysates include lauryldiamonium hydroxypropyl-substituted hydrolyzed collagen, lauryldiamonium hydroxypropyl-substituted hydrolyzed keratin, lauryldiamonium hydroxypropyl-substituted hydrolyzed silk, lauryldiamonium hydroxypropyl-substituted hydrolyzed soy protein, stearyldiamonium hydroxypropyl-substituted hydrolyzed casein, stearyldiamonium hydroxypropyl-substituted hydrolyzed collagen, stearyldiamonium hydroxypropyl-substituted hydrolyzed keratin, stearyldiamonium hydroxypropyl-substituted hydrolyzed rice protein, stearyldiamonium hydroxypropyl-substituted hydrolyzed silk, stearyldiamonium hydroxypropyl-substituted hydrolyzed vegetable protein, wheat protein, stearyldiamonium hydroxypropyl-substituted cocodiamonium hydroxypropyl-substituted casein, stearyldiamonium hydroxypropyl-substituted hydrolyzed collagen, stearyldiamonium hydroxypropyl-substituted hydrolyzed keratin, stearyldiamonium hydroxypropyl-substituted hydrolyzed rice protein, stearyldiamonium hydroxypropyl-substituted hydrolyzed silk, stearyldiamonium hydroxypropyl-substituted hydrolyzed hydrolyzed soy protein, stearyldiammonium hydroxypropyl substituted hydrolyzed wheat protein, wherein in the substituent ~(X)NRR'R on each of these protein hydrolysates X is an OCH2CHOHCH2 group and R and R' are methyl groups and R is a lauryl or stearic or cocoyl group. These hydrolyzed proteins are described in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 1991, pp. II2-ll3, 293-294 and 586, the reference being incorporated herein in its entirety. Of these cationic hydrolyzed proteins, preferred are lauryldiammonium hydroxypropyl substituted hydrolyzed collagen, lauryldiammonium hydroxypropyl substituted hydrolyzed keratin, lauryldiammonium hydroxypropyl substituted hydrolyzed silk, lauryldiammonium hydroxypropyl substituted hydrolyzed soy protein and mixtures thereof.

Also useful as deposition promoters in the present invention are polymeric ethylene glycols, provided that the number of repeat units is greater than 50. These materials are also known as polyethylene glycols and polypropylene glycols (referred to by the CTFA as PEG and PPG, respectively). Non-limiting examples of these materials include PEG 25M, PEG 75, PEG 90, PEG 100, PEG 2M, PEG 7M, PEG 14M, and mixtures thereof.

Synthetic polymers and copolymers are also useful as deposition promoters in the present invention. Suitable cationic polymers include, for example, copolymers of vinyl monomers with cationic amine or quaternary ammonium functional groups with water-soluble intercalated monomers such as acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl acrylamides, alkyl and dialkyl methacrylamides, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, vinyl caprolactone and vinyl pyrrolidone. Alkyl and dialkyl substituted monomers preferably have C1-C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1-C3 alkyl groups. Other suitable intercalated monomers include vinyl esters, vinyl alcohol (prepared by hydrolysis of polyvinyl acetate), maleic anhydride, propylene glycol and ethylene glycol.

Cationic amines are primary, secondary or tertiary amines, depending on the substance and the pH of the shampoo. In general, secondary and tertiary amines are preferred, especially tertiary amines.

Amino-substituted vinyl monomers are polymerized in the amine form and are preferably converted to ammonium derivatives by a quaternization reaction. Similarly, amines are subsequently quaternized after polymer formation. For example, the tertiary amine functional group is quaternized by reaction with a salt of the formula R'X, where R' is a short-chain alkyl group, preferably a C1-C7 alkyl group, more preferably a C1-C3 alkyl group, and X is an anion forming a water-soluble salt with the quaternized ammonium derivative.

Suitable cationic amine and quaternary ammonium monomers include, for example, vinyl compounds substituted with dialkylaminoalkylacrylate, dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylate, monoalkylaminoalkylacrylate, monoalkylaminoalkylmethacrylate, trialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium salt, trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium salt, quaternary diallylammonium salt and vinyl quaternary ammonium monomers with cyclic cationic nitrogen rings such as pyridinium, imidazolium and quaternary pyrrolidone, e.g. alkylvinylimidazolium, alkylvinylpyridinium, alkylvinylpyrrolidone salts. The alkyl portions of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups such as C1-C3 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 and _C2 alkyl groups.

Suitable amino-substituted vinyl monomers useful in the present invention include dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl acrylamide and dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylamide, wherein the alkyl groups are preferably C1-C7 hydrocarbon groups, more preferably C1-C3 alkyl groups.

• · 4 · • 4 1 » · · <

• · · ·

The cationic polymers of the present invention may contain mixtures of monomer units derived from amine and/or quaternary ammonium substituted monomers and/or compatible intercalated monomers.

Suitable synthetic cationic polymers include, for example, copolymers of l-vinyl-2-pyrrolidone and l-vinyl-3-methylimidazolium salt (e.g., chloride; in the CTFA industry, “Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association”, called Polyquaternium-16), such as those commercially available from BASF Wyandotte Corp. (Parsippany, N.J., USA) under the trademark LUVIQUAT (e.g., LUVIQUAT FC 370); copolymers of l-vinyl-2-pyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate (in the CTFA industry called Polyquaternium-11), such as those described in U.S. Patent No. 4,080,310 and commercially available from ISP Corporation (Wayne, N.J., USA) under the trademark GAFQUAT (e.g., GAFQUAT 755 and 755N); cationic diallyl quaternary ammonium polymers including, for example, dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer and copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, referred to in the CTFA industry as Polyquaternium 6 and Polyquaternium 7, respectively; homo- and copolymers of aminoalkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids having 3 to 5 carbon atoms in the form of mineral acid salts, as described in U.S. Patent No. 4,009,256; grafted cationic copolymer comprising N-vinylpyrrolidone, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate and polyethylene glycol described in U.S. Patent No. 4,048,301; etherified starch polymers described in U.S. Patent No. 3,186,911; cationic polyacrylamides of the type described in British Patent Application 94031565.4; cationic polymers with high molecular weight referred to in the CTFA as Quatemium-40 (highly charged cationic dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer) and

Quatemium-41 (a highly charged cationic polymer prepared from dimethylallylammonium chloride and acrylamide), which are commercially available under the trade names MERQUAT 100 and MERQUAT 550 from Merck & Com., Inc.; and mixtures thereof. Other non-limiting examples of suitable synthetic polymers include acrylates/C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, acrylate copolymer, acrylates/PVP copolymer, acrylates/VA copolymer, butylated polyoxymethylene urea, butylated PVP, carbomer, hydroxyethyl PEI1000, methyl methacrylate crosspolymer, PEI-1000, PEI-1500, PEI-2500, polybutene, polyacrylamide, polyacrylic acid, polyethylene, polyisobutene, polymethyl methacrylate, polystyrene, polyvinyl alcohol, PVP, PVP/Eikosen copolymer, PVP/VA copolymer, sodium acrylate copolymer, sodium carbomer, sodium polyacrylate, sodium polymethacrylate, styrene/PVP copolymer, TEA carbomer, and mixtures thereof.

Other Polymers. Other useful polymers include polyvinylpyrrolidone and copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone such as those containing vinyl acetate, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate and their quaternary derivatives with methyl sulfates, and polymers and copolymers of vinyl alcohol and vinyl acetate. Another very useful polymer is the protonated form of polyethyleneimine. Polyethyleneimine is a polymer that is produced by the polymerization of ethyleneimine. Preferred protonated polyethyleneimine polymers of the present invention have a molecular weight in the range of 500,000 to 750,000, branched such that the ratio of primary, secondary and tertiary nitrogen atoms is 1:2:1, one tertiary nitrogen atom is present on average for 3 to 3.5 atoms, a charge density of 20 milliequivalents per gram at pH 4.5, a density of 1070 kg/m ³ and a viscosity of 17,000 to 28,000 millipascals. A protonated polyethyleneimine polymer corresponding to this description is commercially available as POLYMIN P from BASF Corp.

Cationic surfactants (non-polymeric) are also useful as deposition promoters in accordance with the present invention, provided that they are selected so as not to interfere with the overall foaming properties of the desired foaming surfactants. Cationic surfactants useful in accordance with the present invention contain amine or quaternary ammonium hydrophilic groups which become positively charged when dissolved in the aqueous composition of the present invention. Useful cationic surfactants are disclosed in the following documents, all references being incorporated herein by reference: M.C. Publishing Co., McCutcheon's Detergents & Emulsifiers, North American edition 1979; Schwartz et al., Surface Active Agents, Their Chemistry and Technology, New York, Interscience Publishers 1949; U.S. Patent No. 3,155,591, Hilfer, issued November 3, 1964; U.S. U.S. Patent No. 3,929,678, Laughlin et al., issued December 30, 1975; U.S. Patent No. 3,959,461, Bailey et al., issued May 25, 1976; U.S. Patent No. 4,275,055, Nachtigal et al., issued June 23, 1981; U.S. Patent No. 4,387,090, Bolich Jr., issued June 7, 1983; U.S. Patent No. 4,704,272, Oh et al., issued November 3, 1987; U.S. Patent No. 5,034,218, Duvel, issued July 23, 1991; U.S. U.S. Patent No. 5,393,452, Raleigh et al., issued September 14, 1993; U.S. Patent No. 5,672,576, Behrens et al., issued September 30, 1997; U.S. Patent No. 5,714,446, Bartz et al., issued February 3, 1998.

Useful in accordance with the present invention are quaternary ammonium cationic surfactants of the general formula VI • 9 9 · 9 ·

9 · · ·

9 9 · 9 9

X' (VI)

R, _x / ^R 3 N / \

R ₂ R4 where R 1 to R4 are independently hydrogen, an aliphatic group with 1 to 22 carbon atoms, an aromatic group, an aryl group, an alkoxy group, a polyoxyalkylene group, an alkylamido group, a hydroxyalkyl group or an alkylaryl group with 1 to 22 carbon atoms; and X is a halide, acetate, phosphate, nitrate, sulfate, alkyl sulfate radicals (e.g. methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate), tosylate, lactate, citrate and glycolate anion. Aliphatic groups may contain, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, ether linkages and other substituent groups such as a hydroxy group or an amino group (e.g. alkyl groups include polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol groups). Aliphatic groups with longer chains, e.g. with 12 or more carbon atoms, are saturated or unsaturated.

More preferably, R 1 is an alkyl group of 12 to 18 carbon atoms; R ₂ is H or an alkyl group of 1 to 18 carbon atoms; R 3 and R 4 are independently H or an alkyl group of 1 to 3 carbon atoms; X is as described in the previous paragraph.

Most preferably, R1 is an alkyl group of 12 to 18 carbon atoms; R2 _, R3 and R4 are H or an alkyl group of 1 to 3 carbon atoms; X is as described in the previous paragraph.

Other useful cationic surfactants include aminoamides, where in the above formula R 1 is the group R 5 CO-(CH ₂ ) _n -, where R 5 is an alkyl group of 12 to 22 carbon atoms and n is an integer of 2 to 6, more preferably 2 to 4, and most preferably 2 to 3. Non-limiting examples of such cationic emulsifiers include stearamidopropyl PG-diammonium chloride phosphate, stearamidopropyl ethyldiammonium ethosulfate, stearamidopropyl dimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride, stearamidopropyl dimethyl cetearyl ammonium tosylate, stearamidopropyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, stearamidopropyl dimethyl ammonium lactate, and mixtures thereof.

Non-limiting examples of quaternary ammonium salts of cationic surfactants are selected from the group consisting of cetyl ammonium chloride, cetyl ammonium bromide, lauryl ammonium chloride, lauryl ammonium bromide, stearylammonium chloride, stearylammonium bromide, cetyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyldimethylammonium bromide, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium bromide, stearyldimethylammonium chloride, stearyldimethylammonium bromide,

cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, lauryltrimethylammonium chloride, lauryltrimethylammonium bromide, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium bromide, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, stearyldimethylcetyldiliodimethylammonium chloride, dicetylammonium chloride, dicetylammonium bromide, dilaurylammonium chloride, dilaurylammonium bromide, distearylammonium chloride, distearylammonium bromide, dicetylmethylammonium chloride, dicetylmethylammonium bromide, dilaurylmethylammonium chloride, dilaurylmethylammonium bromide, distearylmethylammonium chloride, distearylmethylammonium bromide and mixtures thereof. Other quaternary ammonium salts include those where the C11-C22 alkyl carbon chain is derived from tallow fatty acid or from coconut fatty acid. The term "tallow" refers to an alkyl group derived from tallow fatty acids (mostly hydrogenated tallow fatty acids), which usually have mixtures of C16-C18 alkyl chains. The term “coconut” refers to an alkyl group derived from coconut fatty acids, which typically have mixtures of C12-C14 alkyl chains. Examples of quaternary ammonium salts of tallow and coconut origin include ditallow dimethylammonium chloride, ditallow dimethylammonium methylsulfate, di(hydrogenated tallow)dimethylammonium chloride, di(hydrogenated tallow)dimethylammonium acetate, ditallow dipropyl ammonium phosphate, ditallow dimethylammonium nitrate, di(coconut alkyl)dimethylammonium chloride, di(coconut alkyl)dimethylammonium bromide, tallow ammonium chloride, coconut ammonium chloride, stearamidopropyl-PG-diammonium chloride phosphate, stearamidopropylethyldiammonium ethosulfate, stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride, stearamidopropyldimethylcetearyl ammonium tosylate, stearamidopropyldimethylammonium chloride, stearamidopropyldimethylammonium lactate, and mixtures thereof.

Preferred cationic surfactants useful in the present invention are selected from the group consisting of dilauryldimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, dimyristyldimethylammonium chloride, dipalmityldimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, and mixtures thereof.

Preferred cationic polymers useful in the present invention are selected from the group consisting of hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, lauryldiammonium hydroxypropyloxyethyl cellulose, laurdiammonium hydroxyethyl cellulose, steardiammonium hydroxyethyl cellulose, cocodiammonium hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl-substituted hydrolyzed cellulose, laurdiammonium hydroxypropyl-substituted hydrolyzed keratin, lauryldiammonium hydroxypropyl-substituted hydrolyzed keratin, lauryldiammonium• · hydroxypropyl-substituted hydrolyzed silk, lauryldiammonium hydroxypropyl-substituted hydrolyzed soy protein, protonated polyethyleneimine, Polyquaternium 10, and mixtures thereof. More preferred are lauryldiammonium hydroxypropyl-substituted hydrolyzed collagen, laurdiammonium hydroxypropyloxyethyl cellulose, and mixtures thereof. The deposition promoting agents are preferably selected from the group consisting of hydroxyalkyl cellulose ethers and cationic guar derivatives. Particularly preferred deposition promoters are JAGUAR C13S with a positive charge density of 0.8 meq/g. Other particularly preferred substances are JAGUAR C15, JAGUARC17, JAGUAR C16, JAGUAR 062, Polyquaternium 10 and mixtures thereof. Most preferred is Polyquaternium 10 (e.g. POLYMER JR400 and POLYMER JR30M).

Preferred nonionic polymers useful in the present invention are selected from the group consisting of hydrolyzed casein, hydrolyzed collagen, hydrolyzed vegetable protein, guar gum, polyvinylpyrrolidone, PEG 14M, and mixtures thereof. Most preferred are PEG 14M and hydrolyzed casein.

Mass ratios and mass percentages.

In the present invention, the weight ratio of foaming surfactant to skin care active is in the range of 1000:1 to 1:1, preferably 800:1 to 2:1, and most preferably 500:1 to 3:1.

Other ingredients.

The products of the present invention may contain a variety of beneficial ingredients. Some of these ingredients are listed below. Particularly useful are various active ingredients that provide various conditioning benefits during washing. A product containing these compositions is also useful for delivering conditioning ingredients to the skin or hair.

Conditioning ingredient

The product of the present invention preferably comprises a conditioning ingredient that provides a conditioning benefit to the skin or hair during use of the product. "Conditioning benefit" is used herein to refer to the ability of a substance (e.g., a compound or composition), as a whole or in part, to improve the appearance and/or feel of mammalian skin upon/after topical application (e.g., after rinsing and towel drying) by one or more of the following mechanisms: wetting, hydrating, emollient, lubricating, and occlusive. Non-limiting examples of materials that provide these mechanisms are described in CTFA Cosmetic φφφ· φ

• φ φ

Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition, 1992, incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. The products of the present invention contain 0.05 to 99% by weight of the conditioning ingredient, preferably 0.1 to 50% by weight, and more preferably 1 to 25% by weight, based on the weight of the water-insoluble substrate.

The conditioning component of the present invention comprises: a water-soluble conditioning agent; an oil-soluble conditioning agent; a conditioning emulsion; or any combination or permutation of the three. A conditioning emulsion means that the conditioning agents are present in the above-described skin care emulsions, e.g., either in a water-soluble discontinuous phase or in an oil-soluble continuous phase. The oil-soluble conditioning agent is selected from the group consisting of one or more oil-soluble conditioning agents such that the arithmetic mean weight solubility index of the oil-soluble conditioning agent is less than or equal to 10.5. The water-soluble conditioning agent is selected from one or more water-soluble conditioning agents such that the arithmetic mean weight solubility index of the water-soluble conditioning agent is greater than 10.5. Based on this mathematical definition of solubility indices, it is known that it is possible, for example, to achieve a desired arithmetic weight average solubility index of less than or equal to 10.5 for an oil-soluble conditioning agent containing two or more compounds if one of the compounds has an individual solubility index greater than 10.5. Conversely, it is possible to achieve a desired arithmetic weight average solubility index of greater than 10.5 for a water-soluble conditioning agent containing two or more compounds if one of the compounds has an individual solubility index less than or equal to 10.5. The solubility indices of conditioning agents are determined as described above in the Skin Care Active Ingredients section.

Non-limiting examples of conditioning agents useful as oil-soluble conditioning agents are selected from the group consisting of mineral oil, petrolatum, C7-C40 branched chain hydrocarbons, C1-C30 alcohol esters of C1-C30 carboxylic acids, C1-C30 alcohol esters of C2-C30 dicarboxylic acids, C1-C30 monoglycerides of carboxylic acids, C1-C30 diglycerides of carboxylic acids, C1-C30 triglycerides of carboxylic acids, ethylene glycol monoesters of C1-C30 carboxylic acids, ethylene glycol diesters of C1-C30 carboxylic acids, propylene glycol monoesters of C1-C30 carboxylic acids, propylene glycol diesters of C1-C30 carboxylic acids, sugar monoesters and polyesters of C1-C30 carboxylic acids, polydialkylsiloxanes, polydiarylsiloxanes, polyalkarylsiloxanes,

cyclomethicones with 3 to 9 silicon atoms, vegetable oils, hydrogenated vegetable oils, propylene glycol C ₄ -C ₂₀ alkyl ethers, di-C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl ethers and mixtures thereof.

Mineral oil, also known as liquid petrolatum, is a mixture of liquid hydrocarbons derived from petroleum. See The Merck Index, Tenth Edition, Item 7048, p. 1033 (1983) and International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Fifth Edition, Volume 1, pp. 415-417 (1993), the references being incorporated herein in their entirety.

Petrolatum, also known as petroleum jelly, is a colloidal system of branched-chain solid hydrocarbons and high-boiling liquid hydrocarbons in which most of the liquid hydrocarbons are enclosed within micelles. See The Merck Index, Tenth Edition, Item 7047, p. 1033 (1983); Schindler, Drug Cosmet. Ind. 89, 36-37, 76, 78-80, 82 (1961); and International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Fifth Edition, Volume 1, p. 537 (1993), the references being incorporated herein in their entirety.

Useful in the present invention are straight and branched chain hydrocarbons having from 7 to 40 carbon atoms. Non-limiting examples of such hydrocarbons include dodecane, isododecane, squalane, cholesterol, hydrogenated polyisobutylene, docosane (i.e., a C22 hydrocarbon), hexadecane, isohexadecane (a commercially available hydrocarbon sold as Permethyl® 101A by Presperse, South Plainfield, NJ). Also useful are C7-C40 isoparaffins, which are C7-C40 branched hydrocarbons.

Also useful are C1-C30 alcohol esters of C1-C30 carboxylic acids and C2-C30 dicarboxylic acids, including straight-chain and branched-chain species and aromatic derivatives. Also useful are esters such as C1-C30 carboxylic acid monoglycerides, C1-C30 carboxylic acid diglycerides, C1-C30 carboxylic acid triglycerides, C1-C30 carboxylic acid ethylene glycol monoesters, C1- _C30 carboxylic acid ethylene glycol diesters, C1-C30 carboxylic acid propylene glycol monoesters, and C1- _C30 carboxylic acid propylene glycol diesters. Including straight-chain, branched-chain, and arylcarboxylic acids. Also useful are propoxylated and ethoxylated derivatives of these. Non-limiting examples include diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, myristyl propionate, ethylene glycol distearate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isodecyl neopentanoate, di-2-ethylhexyl maleate, cetyl palmitate, myristyl myristate, stearyl stearate, cetyl stearate, behenyl behenrate, dioctyl maleate, dioctyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, cetyl octanoate, diisopropyl dilinoleate, caprylic/caproic triglyceride, PEG-6 triglyceride ·* ·« • · 9

9 · · · • · · · · · · ·

• 9999 9 9 9 · • · 9 9 9 · 9 9 9 · 9 · 99 · • 9

• · caprylic/capric, PEG-8 caprylic/capric triglyceride, cetyl ricinoleate, cholesterol hydroxystearate, cholesterol isostearate and mixtures thereof.

Various C1-C30 monoesters and polyesters of glycerin and related substances are also useful. These esters are derived from glycerin and one or more carboxylic acid moieties. Depending on the composition of the acid and glycerin, these esters are either liquid or solid at room temperature. Non-limiting examples of solid esters include glyceryl tribehenate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl palmitate, glyceryl distearate, and glyceryl dipalmitate.

Various C1-C30 monoesters and polyesters of sugars and related substances are also useful. These esters are derived from a sugar or polyol component and one or more carboxylic acid moieties. Depending on the acid and sugar composition, these esters are either liquid or solid at room temperature. Examples of liquid esters include glucose tetraoleate, glucose tetraesters of (unsaturated) fatty acids from soybean oil, mannose tetraesters of mixed fatty acids from soybean oil, galactose tetraesters of oleic acid, arabinose tetraesters of linoleic acid, xylose tetralinoleate, galactose pentaoleate, sorbitol tetraoleate, sorbitol hexaesters of unsaturated fatty acids from soybean oil, xylitol pentaoleate, sucrose tetraoleate, sucrose pentaoleate, sucrose hexaoleate, sucrose heptaoleate, sucrose octaoleate, and mixtures thereof. Examples of solid esters include sorbitol hexaester, in which the ester groups of the carboxylic acids are palmitoleate and arachidate in a molar ratio of 1:2; ramphose octaester, in which the ester groups of the carboxylic acids are linoleate and behenate in a molar ratio of 1:3; maltose heptaester, in which the esterifying carboxylic acid groups are sunflower oil fatty acids and lignocerate in a molar ratio of 3:4; sucrose octaester, in which the esterifying carboxylic acid groups are oleate and behenate in a molar ratio of 2:6; and sucrose octaester, in which the esterifying carboxylic acid groups are laurate, linoleate, and behenate in a molar ratio of 1:3:4. A preferred solid is a sucrose polyester with a degree of esterification of 7 to 8, in which the fatty acids are mono- and/or di-unsaturated and behenic, in a molar ratio of unsaturated acids to behenic acid in the range of 1:7 to 3:5. A particularly preferred solid sugar ester is an octaester of sucrose with 7 behenic fatty acids and 1 oleic acid per molecule. Other materials include sucrose esters of cottonseed oil and soybean oil fatty acids. The esters are further described in U.S. Patent No. 2,831,854, U.S. Patent No. 4,005,196, Jandacek, issued January 25, 1977; U.S. Patent No. 4,005,195, Jandacek, issued January 25, 1977; U.S. patent ě.

99 9 • ·· ·· ··

9 ·

9 ·

9 · · · ·

99

U.S. Patent No. 5,306,516, Letton et al., issued April 26, 1994; U.S. Patent No. 5,306,515, Letton et al., issued April 26, 1994; U.S. Patent No. 5,305,514, Letton et al., issued April 26, 1994; U.S. Patent No. 4,797,300, Jandacek et al., issued January 10, 1989; U.S. Patent No. 3,963,699, Rizzi et al., issued June 15, 1976; U.S. Patent No. 4,518,772, Volpenhein, issued May 21, 1985; and U.S. No. 4,517,360, Volpenhein, issued May 21, 1985; all references are incorporated herein in their entirety.

Also useful oils are nonvolatile silicones such as polydialkylsiloxanes, polydiarylsiloxanes, and polyalkarylsiloxanes. These silicones are disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 5,069,897, Orr, issued December 3, 1991, the reference being incorporated herein in its entirety. Polyalkylsiloxanes have the general chemical formula R3SiO[R2SiO] _x SiR3, where R is an alkyl group (preferably R is methyl or ethyl, more preferably methyl) and x is an integer up to 500, selected to achieve the desired molecular weight. Commercially available polyalkylsiloxanes include polydimethylsiloxanes, which are also known as dimethicones, non-limiting examples of which include the VICASIL® series sold by General Electric Company and the DOW CORNING® 200 series sold by Dow Corning Corporation. Specific examples of polydimethylsiloxanes useful in the present invention include DOW CORNING® 225 fluid having a viscosity of 10 centistokes and a boiling point greater than 200°C, and DOW CORNING® 200 fluid having a viscosity of 50, 350 and 12,500 centistokes, respectively, and a boiling point greater than 200°C. Also useful are trimethylsiloxysilicates, polymeric substances having the general chemical formula [(CH2)3SiOi/ ₂ ] _x [SiO2] _y , where x is an integer from 1 to 500 and y is an integer from 1 to 500. Commercially available trimethylsiloxysilicate is sold in admixture with dimethicone as DOW CORNING® 593 fluid. Also useful in the present invention are dimethiconols, which are hydroxy-terminated dimethyl silicones. These materials have the general chemical formula R3SiO[R2SiO] _x SiR2OH and HOR ₂ SiO[R2SiO] _x SiR2OH, where R is an alkyl group (preferably R is methyl or ethyl, more preferably methyl) and x is an integer up to 500, selected to achieve the desired molecular weight. Commercially available dimethiconols are typically sold as mixtures with dimethicone or cyclomethicone (e.g., DOW CORNING® 1401, 1402, and 1403 fluids). Also useful in the present invention are polyalkylarylsiloxanes, preferably polymethylphenylsiloxanes having a viscosity of 15 to 65 centistokes at 25°C. These materials are available, for example, as SF 1075 METHYLPHENYL FLUID (sold by General Electric Company) and φ φ φ • φ φ φ φ · • Φ φφ

ΦΦ

556 COSMETIC GRADE PHENYL TRIMETHICONE FLUID (sold by Dow Corning φφ

Corporation).

Vegetable oils and hydrogenated vegetable oils are also useful in the present invention. Examples of vegetable oils and hydrogenated vegetable oils include safflower oil, castor oil, coconut oil, cottonseed oil, menhaden oil, palm kernel oil, palm oil, peanut oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, linseed oil, rice bran oil, pine oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, hydrogenated safflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated cottonseed oil, hydrogenated menhaden oil, hydrogenated palm kernel oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated peanut oil, hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, hydrogenated linseed oil, hydrogenated rice bran oil, hydrogenated sesame oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, and mixtures thereof.

Also useful are C4-C20 alkyl ethers of polypropylene glycols, esters of C1-C20 carboxylic acids of polypropylene glycols, and di-C5-C10 alkyl ethers. Non-limiting examples of these include PPG-14 butyl ether, PPG-15 stearyl ether, dioctyl ether, dodecyl octyl ether, and mixtures thereof.

Other useful oil-soluble conditioning agents include CREMEROL (available from Amerchol), ELDEW CL301 (available from Ajinomoto), MODULAN (acetylated lanolin commercially available from Croda), OHLAN (hydroxylated lanolin commercially available from Amerchol), phytantriol, supersterol esters such as C1-C30 cholesterol/lanosterol esters (available from Croda), and mixtures thereof.

Non-limiting examples of conditioning agents useful as water-soluble conditioning agents are selected from the group consisting of polyhydric alcohols, polypropylene glycols, polyethylene glycols, urea, pyrrolidone carboxylic acids, ethoxylated and/or propoxylated C ₃ -C 6 diols and triols, alpha-hydroxy C 2 -C 6 carboxylic acids, ethoxylated and/or propoxylated sugars, polyacrylic acid copolymers, sugars with 1 to 2 carbon atoms, sugar alcohols with up to 12 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof. Specific examples of water-soluble conditioning agents include urea; guanidine; glycolic acid and glycolate salts (e.g., ammonium and quaternary alkyl ammonium); lactic acid and lactate salts (e.g., ammonium and quaternary alkyl ammonium); sucrose, fructose, glucose, erythritol, sorbitol, mannitol, glycerol, hexanetriol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and the like; polyethylene glycols such as PEG-2, PEG-3,

PEG-4, PEG-5, PEG-6, PEG-8, PEG-9, PEG-10, PEG-15, PEG-30, PEG-50, polypropylene glycols such as PPG-9, PPG-12, PPG-15, PPG-17, PPG-20, PPG-26, PPG-30, PPG-34; alkoxylated glucose; hyaluronic acid; and mixtures thereof. Also useful are aloe vera in any form (e.g., aloe vera gel), chitin, starch grafted sodium polyacrylates such as SANWET (RTM) IM-1000, IM-1500, and IM-2500 (available from Celanese Superabsorbent Materials, Portsmouth, VA); monoethanolamine lactamide; monoethanolamine acetamide; and mixtures thereof. Also useful are propoxylated glycerols described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,111,111. No. 4,976,953, Orr et al., issued December 11, 1990, the reference being incorporated herein in its entirety. Other useful water-soluble conditioning agents include arginine, arginine aspartate (available from Ajinomoto), ARGININE PCA (available from Argidone-UCIB),

1,3-butylene glycol, CHITOLAM NB/101 (available from Lamberti), chitosan salts, COLLAGEN AMINO ACID ((available from Crotein CAA-Croda), creatine, dextran, dextrin, diglycerol, dipropylene glycol, erythritol, FUCOGEL (available from Solabia), fructose, glucamine salts, glucose glutamate, (commercially available as WICKENOL 545 from Caschem), glucuronic acid salts, glutamic acid salts, glycereth 12, glycereth 20, glycereth 7, glycerin, glyceryl PCA, glycogen, hexylene glycol, honey, hydrogenated honey, hydrogenated starch hydrolysates, hydrolysed mucopolysaccharides, hydroxyproline, inositol, keratin amino acids (commercially available as CROTEIN HKP from Croda), LYSINE PLA (commercially available as LYSIDONE from UCIB), maltitol, maltose, mannitol, mannose, methoxymethylgluceth 10 (commercially available as GLUCAM E10 from Amerchol), methylgluceth 20 (commercially available as GLUCAM E20 from Amerchol), methylglucose,

3-methyl-1,3-butanediol, N-acetylglucosamine salts, panthenol, butanediol, pentaerythritol,

1,2-pentanediol, polyglycerol, sorbitol, PPG 1 glyceryl ether, proline, propylene glycol,

2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid and its salts, sugar isomerates (commercially available as PENTAVITIN from Pentapharm), serine, silk amino acids (commercially available as CROSLIK LIQUID from Croda), sodium acetylhyaluronate, sodium hyaluronate, sodium polyaspartate (commercially available as AQUADEW SPA-30 from Ajinomoto), sodium polyglutamate (commercially available as AJICOAT SPG from Ajinomoto), sorbeth 20, sorbeth 6, sorbitol, trehalose, triglycerol, trimethylolpropane, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts, xylitol, xylose and mixtures thereof.

Hardness value ¥· ·¥ ¥ ¥ 1 ¥ · <

¥ ¥ 4 » ¥ ¥ <

¥¥ ¥¥

In an embodiment comprising a conditioning component comprising an oil-soluble conditioning agent, the skin care active preferably has a minimum hardness value of 0.02 kg. The hardness value is a physically measured hardness of the combination of all ingredients (e.g., water-soluble skin care actives, oil-soluble skin care actives, and conditioning agents) within the skin care active. It is believed that increasing the hardness value results in increased consistency of deposition of the skin care actives and conditioning agents regardless of the varying lathering methods employed by the user. It is believed that increasing the hardness of the skin care active results in reduced transfer within the substrate as well as reduced emulsification of the skin care active by surfactants during lathering. The result is a greater amount of the skin care active available for mechanical transfer upon contact with the skin or hair.

The skin care active ingredient of the present invention has a hardness value of greater than 0.02 kg, preferably greater than 0.05 kg and more preferably greater than 0.10 kg. Preferably, the hardness value of the skin care active ingredient does not exceed 5.00 kg, more preferably 4.00 kg and most preferably 3.00, as hardness above this limit negatively affects the deposition of the skin care active ingredient ingredients into the skin or hair.

Hardness test

The hardness value is measured using a commonly used bar of soap hardness test. The hardness value of a 5 to 8 oz. sample of a skin care active ingredient is measured using a Chatillon force gauge. Several readings are taken, each with a fresh sample, to obtain an average value. The Chatillon force gauge model No. DFIS100 is manufactured by Chatillon Corporation of Greensboro, North Carolina.

Substances used to increase hardness value

The cleansing products of the present invention may comprise a hardener used in combination with a skin care active comprising the skin care active as described above. Many substances can be used simultaneously as a conditioning agent and a lipid hardener. Any of the solid conditioning agents described above is useful as a hardener. The amount of hardener required to achieve a minimum hardness value of 0.02 kg depends on the substance used and is readily determined by one skilled in the art. The hardener is used alone or in combination with hardeners, and its concentration is in the range of 0.1 to 99.9 wt. %, preferably 0.5 to 75 wt. %, more preferably 1 to 50 wt. % and even more preferably 2 to 25 wt. % of the skin care active.

• »«·» > © • • t • · • · • • » · • • · · * • ft ·· ·©

·© • · · • · · • ♦ · • * · ··

The term "hardening agents" is used herein to refer to agents that have a melting point of greater than 30°C, preferably greater than 30°C to 250°C, more preferably 37 to 100°C, and even more preferably 37 to 80°C.

Any substance can be used to increase the hardness value of a skin care active ingredient, provided that it meets the following criteria: (i) the substance must be soluble in the skin care active ingredient of the skin care active ingredient and (ii) the substance must have a melting point greater than 20°C (e.g., must be in the solid state at room temperature). Non-limiting examples of suitable hardening agents include petrolatum, highly branched hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters, vegetable oils, hydrogenated vegetable oils, polypropylene glycols, alpha-hydroxy fatty acids, fatty acids having 10 to 40 carbon atoms, alkylamides of di- and/or tri-carboxylic acids, N-acylamino acid derivatives, and mixtures thereof. Hardening agents useful in the present invention are further described in U.S. Patent No. 4,919,934, Deckner et al., issued

April 24, 1990, the reference is incorporated herein in its entirety.

Suitable highly branched hydrocarbons useful in the present invention include hydrocarbon compounds having from 17 to 40 carbon atoms. Non-limiting examples of such hydrocarbon compounds include squalane, cholesterol, lanolin, docosane (i.e., a C22 hydrocarbon), and isoparaffins.

Suitable fatty alcohols useful in the present invention include monohydric alcohols, ethoxylated fatty alcohols and fatty alcohol esters, with the exception of the ethoxylated fatty alcohols and fatty alcohol esters used as emulsifiers in the present invention. Non-limiting specific examples of commercially available fatty alcohols include UNILIN 550, UNILIN 700, UNILIN 425, UNILIN 400, UNILIN 350 and UNILIN 325, all available from Petrolite. Suitable ethoxylated fatty alcohols include but are not limited to UNITHOX 325, UNITHOX 400, UNITHOX 450, UNITHOX 480, UNITHOX 520, UNITHOX 550, UNITHOX 720 and UNITHOX 750, all available from Petrolite. Non-limiting examples of suitable fatty alcohol esters include tri-isostearyl citrate, ethylene glycol di-12-hydroxystearate, tristearyl citrate, stearyl octanoate, stearyl heptanoate, trilauryl citrate.

Suitable fatty acid esters useful in the present invention include wax esters, monoglycerides, diglycerides, triglycerides, and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of suitable wax esters include stearyl stearate, stearyl behenate, palmityl stearate, stearyl octyldodecanol, cetyl esters, cetearyl behenate, behenyl behenate, ethylene glycol distearate, ethylene glycol dipalmitate, and beeswax. Examples of commercial ester waxes include waxes

KESTER from Koster Keunen, CRODAMOL SS from Croda and DEMALCARE SPS from Rhone

Poulenc.

Vegetable oils and hydrogenated vegetable oils that are solid or semi-solid at room temperature of 20 to 25°C are also useful as solidifying agents. Examples of suitable vegetable oils and hydrogenated vegetable oils include butterfat, chicken fat, goose fat, horse fat, lard (adipose tissue), rabbit fat, sardine oil, tallow (beef), tallow (mutton), Chinese vegetable tallow, babassu oil, cocoa butter, coconut oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, hydrogenated safflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated cottonseed oil, hydrogenated menhaden oil, hydrogenated palm kernel oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated peanut oil, hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, hydrogenated linseed oil, hydrogenated rice bran oil, hydrogenated sesame oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of suitable alpha-hydroxy fatty acids and fatty acids with 10 to 40 carbon atoms include 12-hydroxystearic acid, 12-hydroxylauric acid, 16-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, behenic acid, erucic acid, stearic acid, caprylic acid, lauric acid, isostearic acid, and mixtures thereof. Examples of other suitable fatty acids are described in U.S. Patent No. 5,429,816, Hofrichter et al., issued July 4, 1995, and in U.S. Patent No. 5,552,136, Motley, issued

September 3, 1996, descriptions are incorporated herein by reference.

Suitable alkylamides of di- and/or tribasic carboxylic acids useful in the present invention include disubstituted or branched monoamides, monosubstituted or branched diamides, triamides and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting specific examples of some alkylamides of di- and/or tribasic carboxylic acids include alkylamides of citric acid, tricarballylic acid, aconitic acid, nitrile triacetic acid and itaconic acid such as 1,2,3-propane tributylamide, 2-hydroxy-1,2,3-propane tributylamide, 1-propene-1,2,3-trioctylamide, N,N',N''-tri(methyldecylamide)amine, 2-dodecyl-N,N'-dibutylsuccinamide and mixtures thereof. Other suitable derivatives of N-acylamino acids are described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,111,111. Patent No. 5,429,816, Hofrichter et al., issued July 4, 1995.

• » · ·

Waxes with an HLB value of 1 to 10, preferably 6 and most preferably 5, are also suitable for use in the present invention. The HLB (hydrophile-lipophile balance) system is fully described, with HLB values for various substances, in The Time-Saving Guide to Emulsifier Selection, published by ICI Americas Inc., Wilmington, Del., 1984, the reference to which is incorporated herein in its entirety.

Useful waxes include C10-C40 fatty acids, diesters of C10-C40 fatty acids where the alcohol is propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyglycerol or glycerin, triglycerides or diglycerides of C10-C40 fatty acids, pentaerythritol tri- or tetraesters of C10-C40 fatty acids, sorbitan triesters of C10-C40 fatty acids, sucrose polyesters of C10-C40 fatty acids with 3 to 8 moles of substitution, myristyl myristate, paraffin, synthetic waxes such as Fischer-Tropsche waxes, microcrystalline waxes, castor wax, partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, behenyl behenrate and myristyl propionate, and mixtures thereof.

Useful diester waxes include SYNCHROWAX ERL-C (C18-C36 acid glycol ester, available from Croda) and propylene glycol diester wax including ethylene glycol distearate and glycol distearate. Useful triglyceride waxes include shea butter, cocoa butter, SYNCHROWAX HGL-C (C, ₈ - _C36 acid triglyceride), SYNCHROWAX HRC (tribehenin), SYNCHROWAX HRS-C (tribehenin /and/ calcium behenate), all available from Croda Inc., tristearin, trimyristate and fully hydrogenated vegetable oils and mixtures thereof. A mixture of diester and triglyceride waxes in a ratio of 5:1 to 1:1 is preferred, more preferably 4:1 to 1:1.

Waxes useful in the compositions of the present invention are disclosed in the following publications, all references of which are incorporated herein in their entirety: U.S. Patent No. 5,219,558, Woodin Jr. et al., issued June 15, 1993; U.S. Patent No. 4,049,792, Elsnau, issued September 20, 1977; U.S. Patent No. 4,151,272, Geary et al., issued April 24, 1975; U.S. Patent No. 4,229,432, Geria, issued October 21, 1980; U.S. Patent No. 4,280,994, Tumey, issued July 28, 1981; U.S. Patent No. 4,126,679, Davy et al., issued November 21, 1978; and European Patent Application Publication No. 117,070, May, issued August 29, 1984; The Chemistry and Technology of Waxes, A.H. Warth, 2nd ed. (reprint 1960), Reinhold Publishing Corporation, pp. 391-393 and 421; The Petroleum Chemicals Industry, R.F. Goldstein and A.L. Waddeam, 3rd ed. (1967), E & F.N. Span Ltd., pp. 33-40; The Chemistry and Manufacture of Cosmetics, M.G. DeNavarre, 2nd ed. (1970), Van Nostrand &

444 44 44

Company, pp. 354-376; and Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Volume 24, Kirk-Othmer, 3.

edition (1979), pp. 466-481.

Other non-limiting examples of useful thickening agents are selected from the group consisting of sorbitan esters, glyceryl esters, polyglyceryl esters, methyl glucose esters, sucrose esters, ethoxylated fatty alcohols, hydrogenated castor oil ethoxylates, sorbitan ester ethoxylates, polymeric emulsifiers, and silicone emulsifiers.

Sorbitan esters are useful in the present invention. Sorbitan esters of C16- _C22 saturated, unsaturated and branched fatty acids are preferred. Due to the typical method of their preparation, these sorbitan esters usually contain mixtures of mono-, di-, tri-, etc. esters. Representative examples of suitable sorbitan esters include sorbitan monooleate (e.g., SPAN® 80), sorbitan sesquioleate (e.g., ARLACEL® 83), sorbitan monoisostearate (e.g., CRILL® 6, manufactured by Croda), sorbitan stearates (e.g., SPAN® 60), sorbitan trioleate (e.g., SPAN® 85), sorbitan tristearate (e.g., SPAN® 65), sorbitan dipalmitates (e.g., SPAN® 40) and sorbitan isostearate. Particularly preferred emulsifiers useful in the present invention are sorbitan monoisostearate and sorbitan sesquioleate.

Other suitable thickeners useful in the present invention include, but are not limited to, glyceryl monoesters, preferably glyceryl monoesters of C16-C22 saturated, unsaturated and branched fatty acids such as glyceryl oleate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monopalmitate, glyceryl monobehenate and mixtures thereof; polyglyceryl esters of C16- _C22 saturated, unsaturated and branched fatty acids such as polyglyceryl-4-isostearate, polyglyceryl-3-oleate, diglycerol monooleate, tetraglycerol monooleate and mixtures thereof; methyl glucose esters, preferably methyl glucose esters of C16-C22 saturated, unsaturated and branched fatty acids such as methyl glucose dioleate, methyl glucose sesquiisostearate and mixtures thereof; sucrose esters of fatty acids, preferably sucrose esters of C16- _C22 saturated, unsaturated and branched fatty acids such as sucrose stearate, sucrose trilaurate, sucrose distearate (e.g. CRODESTA® F10) and mixtures thereof; hydrogenated castor oil ethoxylates such as PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil; sorbitan ester ethoxylates such as PEG-40 sorbitan peroleate, polysorbate-80 and mixtures thereof; polymeric emulsifiers such as ethoxylated dodecyl glycol copolymers; and silicone emulsifiers such as lauryl methicone copolyol, cetyl dimethicone, dimethicone copolyol and mixtures thereof.

Other useful solidifying agents include, but are not limited to, phosphatidylcholines and phosphatidylcholine-containing agents such as lecithins; salts of long-chain _C16 - _C22 fatty acids such as sodium stearate; quaternary ammonium salts of long-chain C16-C22 dialiphatic acids, quaternary ammonium salts of short-chain C1-C4 dialiphatic acids such as diiododimethylammonium chloride and diiododimethylammonium methylsulfate; quaternary ammonium salts of long-chain C16-C22 dialkoyl(alkenoyl)-2-hydroxyethyl acids, quaternary ammonium salts of short-chain C1-C4 dialiphatic acids such as diiodoyl-2-hydroxyethyldimethylammonium chloride; quaternary imidazole salts of long chain C16-C22 dialiphatic acids such as methyl-1-tallowamidoethyl-2-tallowimidazolinium methyl sulfate and methyl-1-oleylamidoethyl-2-oleylimidazolinium methyl sulfate; benzyl quaternary ammonium salts of long chain C16-C22 monoaliphatic acids and benzyl quaternary ammonium salts of short chain C1-C4 dialiphatic acids such as dimethylstearylbenzylammonium chloride and synthetic phospholipids such as stearamidopropyl PG-diammonium chloride (PHOSPHOLIPID PTS from Mona Industries).

Other beneficial ingredients

The compositions of the present invention may contain a variety of other preferred ingredients. These other ingredients must be pharmaceutically acceptable. The CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition (1992), incorporated herein by reference in its entirety, describes a variety of non-limiting cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients commonly used in the skin care industry that are suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention. Non-limiting examples of functional classes of ingredients are described on page 537 of the above-mentioned publication. Examples of these and other functional classes include abrasives, absorbents, anti-caking agents, antioxidants, vitamins, binders, biological additives, buffering agents, bulking agents, chelating agents, chemical additives, colorants, cosmetic astringents, denaturants, medicinal astringents, film-forming agents, fragrances, opacifying agents, pH adjusting agents, preservatives, propellants, and reducing agents.

Aesthetic ingredients such as fragrances, pigments, colorants, essential oils, skin feel agents, and astringents are also useful.

Production methods

The disposable personal hygiene cleansing products of the present invention are prepared by separately or simultaneously adding a foaming surfactant, a skin care active ingredient, and preferably a deposition promoting agent (in any permutation) to or impregnating a water-insoluble substrate.

The agents are also preferably added separately or simultaneously to a water-insoluble substrate or impregnated into a water-insoluble substrate containing the above three components. "Separately" here means that the surfactants and the skin care active ingredient are added sequentially in any order without first being combined together. "Simultaneously" here means that the surfactants and the conditioning agents are added simultaneously, whether or not the first are combined together.

The foaming surfactant and the skin care active are preferably added separately, as this prevents emulsification of the skin care actives. The conditioning component is also preferably added separately to the substrate. In this preferred embodiment, the preferred deposition aid is (i) mixed with the foaming surfactant before adding the mixture to the substrate, (ii) mixed with the skin care active before adding the mixture to the substrate, or (iii) separately added to or impregnated into the substrate. However, if the surfactant is added in this on/in manner, the skin care active and any preferred ingredients are preferably added to the substrate after the surfactants have been applied. Regardless of the order of addition, excess surfactants, skin care actives and/or deposition aid are removed (e.g. by nipping). The treated substrate is then dried in a conventional manner. The surfactant, skin care active, deposition aid, and any desired additives are added to or impregnated into the substrate by any means known to those skilled in the art, such as spraying, laser printing, spraying, dipping, dipping, or coating (e.g., extrusion coating and slot coating).

If water or moisture is used or present in the present manufacturing process, the resulting treated substrate is then dried so that it is substantially free of water. The treated substrate is dried by any method known to those skilled in the art. Non-limiting examples of known drying methods include the use of conventional ovens, radiant heat sources, microwave ovens, forced air ovens, and heated rollers or drums. Drying also includes air drying without the application of thermal energy other than that present in the normal environment. Combinations of different drying methods are also applicable.

Methods for maintaining skin care actives substantially on the surface of a substrate

The products of the present invention effectively and efficiently deliver skin care actives to the skin and hair by maintaining the skin care actives substantially on the surface of the substrate. The following is a detailed discussion of improved processing and improved ·· «9 • · 4 · ‘ • * I • · · 4 • · 9· composition that allows a surface area to saturation ratio of greater than or equal to 1.25 to be achieved. All of the following processing and composition improvements are useful individually or in combination to maintain skin care actives substantially on the surface of the substrate. The term "chemical ingredient" herein means a skin care active or a combination of a conditioning agent and a skin care active.

Chemical treatment of the substrate

One way to substantially retain a chemical component on the surface of a substrate is to chemically treat the substrate or the fibers of the substrate with either a hydrophobic or hydrophilic substance. The choice of the appropriate substance (hydrophobic or hydrophilic) depends on the chemical component to be deposited. When, for example, an oil-soluble conditioning agent is to be delivered to the skin or hair, the substrate or its fibers are typically treated with a hydrophilic substance, and vice versa. Since most substrates are inherently hydrophobic, usually derived from, for example, polyolefins, the description will focus on the hydrophilic chemical treatment of the substrate.

A variety of surfactants, including ionic and nonionic surfactants, are used to hydrophilically modify a substrate. Suitable surfactants may be internal modifiers (modifying compounds are added to the polymeric composition prior to spinning or forming fibers) or topical modifiers (modifying compounds are added topically during or after forming fibers or nonwoven webs). The internal modification process is disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 4,578,414 to Sawyer et al., and the topical modification process is disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 5,057,361 to Sayovitz et al., both references being incorporated herein in their entirety.

Non-limiting examples of suitable surfactants include silicone-based surfactants, e.g., polyalkylene oxide-modified polydimethylsiloxane; fluoroaliphatic surfactants, e.g., perfluoroalkylpolyalkylene oxides; and other surfactants, e.g., acetyl-phenoxypolyethoxyethanol nonionic surfactants, alkylaryl polyether alcohols, and polyethylene oxides. Commercially available surfactants suitable for the present invention include various polyethylene oxide-based surfactants available under the TRITON trademark, e.g., grade X-102 from Rohm and Haas Corp.; various polyethylene oxide-based surfactants available under the EMEREST trademark, e.g., grades 2620 and 2650 from Emery Indust.; various polyalkylene oxide-modified polydimethylsiloxane surfactants available under the SILWET trademark, e.g., grade Y12488 from OSI Specialty Chemicals; and alkenyl succinamide surfactants available under the trademark LUBRIZOL, e.g. grade OS85870 from Lubrizol Corp.; and polyoxyalkylene modified fluoroaliphatic surfactants available from Minnesota

·· ·· ♦ · · · « 0 · » · ·

In 0 0 0 0 0 0

0 0 0 0 0

000 ··· 0* ··

Mining and Manufacturing Co. The required amount of surfactants and the hydrophilicity of the modified substrate or substrate fibers will vary with each application depending on the type of surfactant selected and the polymer components used. In general, the surfactant is added topically or internally in the range of 0.1 to 5 wt. %, preferably 0.3 to 4 wt. % of the weight of the substrate or substrate fibers.

Increasing viscosity

Another way to substantially retain the chemical component on the substrate surface is to increase the viscosity before application to the substrate. This prevents the substrate from becoming saturated with the chemical component. There are generally two ways to increase the viscosity of the chemical component: (i) application to the substrate at the transition temperature of the chemical component and (ii) introduction of a hardener into the chemical component before application to the substrate. A combination of these methods is preferred.

Application to substrate at phase transition temperature

One method of retaining a chemical component on the surface of a substrate is to apply it to the substrate at the transition temperature of the chemical component. This method is applicable to any chemical component as long as the transition temperature of the chemical component is greater than 35°C (viscous at room temperature). The phase transition temperature is defined herein as the temperature at which the chemical component changes from a liquid state to a viscous state. Essentially, in this method, the chemical component is applied at the temperature at which the chemical component becomes viscous upon transitioning from a liquid state during the cooling process.

Typically, the chemical ingredient is applied to the substrate by melting or heating. Alternatively, the chemical ingredient is heated and dissolved in a solvent prior to application to the substrate. However, some chemical ingredients are viscous and yet fluid enough to be applied without heating. If the transition temperature of the chemical ingredient is near or slightly above room temperature, other methods described herein must be used to maintain the chemical ingredient on the surface of the substrate. The transition temperatures (also known as melting points) of most chemicals are listed in the Merck Index, 10th Edition (1983) and the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, 2nd Edition, (1992), which references are incorporated herein in their entirety.

The result of applying the chemical to the substrate at the transition temperature is supercooling of the chemical component when applied to the substrate. Supercooling means that the cooling rate is artificially increased compared to the cooling rate at normal temperature. This provides the dual advantage of fluidity of the chemical component during processing and reaching the phase transition temperature before the substrate is saturated with the chemical component. This method is used when the chemical component is viscous and plastic at room temperature.

Hardening agent

If the chemical component is liquid at room temperature (not viscous), the chemical component will not remain primarily on the surface of the substrate. Instead, the chemical component will tend to migrate and flow into the unoccupied volume of the substrate. The present method addresses this by introducing a curing agent into the chemical component. This increases the viscosity of the chemical component and leads to the same result as applying it to the substrate at the phase transition temperature. Because the viscosity of the chemical component is effectively increased, it remains on the surface of the substrate without saturating the substrate. In general, the curing agent must be viscous at room temperature and must be miscible with the chemical component. The phase transition temperatures and suitable viscosities of curing agents vary greatly from one curing agent to another. Typically, however, the phase transition temperature of the curing agent is greater than 35°C, preferably greater than 40°C.

In general, the hardener can be any substance that is viscous at room temperature. The CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, 2nd Edition, (1992), incorporated herein by reference in its entirety, discloses many suitable hardeners. Any conditioning agent listed above that is more viscous than the chemical component and miscible with the chemical component is a suitable hardener.

Non-limiting examples of useful conditioning agents according to the present invention are selected from the group consisting of fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with an average degree of ethoxylation in the range of 2 to 30, sorbitan esters, glyceryl esters, polyglyceryl esters, methyl glucose esters, sucrose esters, sorbitan ester ethoxylates, natural and synthetic waxes, polyacrylic and hydrophobically modified polyacrylic resins, starches, gums, cellulose ethers, polycationic polymers, nonionic polymers, polyethylene glycols (PEG) and mixtures thereof.

Non-limiting examples of useful conditioning agents according to the present invention include stearic acid, behenic acid, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan stearates, sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan tristearate, sorbitan dipalmitates, sorbitan isostearate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monopalmitate, glyceryl monobehenate, polyglyceryl-4-isostearate, polyglyceryl-3-oleate, diglycerol monooleate, tetraglycerol monooleate, methyl glucose dioleate, methyl glucose sesquiisostearate, sucrose stearate, sucrose trilaurate, sucrose distearate, oleth-2, oleth-3, steareth-2, PEG-40 sorbitan peroleate, Polysorbate-80, φ · · · » · · · · · · • ♦ * > · · · • · · 9

Itt ·· · · · · beeswax, polyethylene wax, CARBOPOL, PEMULENE, corn starch, potato starch, tapioca, guar gum, gum arabic, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, RETEN 201, KYMENE 557H®, ACCO 7112, CARBOWAX.

Non-uniform application to the substrate

Another way to substantially retain a chemical component on the substrate surface is to apply the chemical component non-uniformly to the substrate surface. "Non-uniform" means that the distribution pattern of the chemical component on the substrate surface may vary. For example, some parts of the substrate surface have a greater or lesser amount of the chemical component, including parts of the surface where there is no chemical component.

Order of application of additives to the substrate

Another way to substantially retain the chemical on the surface of the substrate is to determine the order in which the additives are applied to the substrate. Generally, the best results are obtained when the chemical is added to a dry substrate. Applying a foaming surfactant first followed by drying the substrate containing the surfactant before applying the chemical will greatly improve the delivery of the chemical.

Methods of cleaning and conditioning skin and hair

The present invention also relates to methods of cleaning and conditioning the skin and hair with a personal care cleansing product according to the present invention. These methods include the step of wetting a substantially dry disposable personal care cleansing product comprising a water-insoluble substrate, a foaming surfactant and a skin care active ingredient with water, and contacting the skin or hair with the thus moistened product. In other embodiments, the present invention is also useful for delivering various conditioning agents to the skin or hair.

The products of the present invention are substantially dry and are moistened with water prior to use. The product is moistened by immersion in water or by exposure to a stream of water. Foam is generated from the product by mechanical friction and/or deformation of the product prior to or during contact of the product with the skin or hair. The resulting foam is useful for cleansing and conditioning the skin or hair. During the cleansing process and subsequent rinsing with water, the skin care actives and beneficial ingredients are deposited on the skin or hair. The deposition of the skin care actives and conditioning agents is enhanced by physical contact of the substrate with the skin or hair.

♦ « » * • · · ·

9 9 9 · • · · 9 ·· 99

Methods for consistently depositing skin care actives and conditioning ingredients into the skin or hair

The products of the present invention are useful for consistently depositing the skin care actives of the present invention onto the skin or hair. In other embodiments, where a conditioning agent is present, the compositions are also useful for consistently depositing conditioning agents onto the skin or hair.

The products of the present invention have a deposit consistency of greater than 60%, preferably greater than 65%, more preferably greater than 70% and most preferably greater than 75%.

The deposition consistency rate is the ratio of the deposition of skin care actives under “non-ideal foaming and application” to the deposition of skin care actives under “ideal foaming and application.” Non-ideal foaming is used here to refer to the foaming achieved by rubbing the surface of a product containing skin care actives and then contacting the skin or hair with the same surface. This results in insufficient deposition of skin care actives because some of the skin care actives are emulsified with the surfactant. Ideal foaming here means that foaming is achieved by rubbing the surface of a product not containing skin care actives and then contacting the skin or hair with the surface containing skin care actives. The same applies if both surfaces of the substrate contain skin care actives (e.g., deposition achieved after lathering and skin contact with the same foamed surface containing emulsified skin care actives versus skin contact with an unfoamed surface containing non-emulsified skin care actives). The deposit consistency is maximum when the hardness value of the active skin care ingredient is greater than 0.02 kg.

The quantification of skin care actives deposited in the skin or hair is measured using various standard analytical techniques well known to those skilled in the art. These methods include, for example, extraction of the skin or hair surface with a suitable solvent followed by chromatographic analysis (e.g., gas chromatography, liquid chromatography, supercritical fluid chromatography, etc.), IR spectroscopy, UV/VIS spectroscopy, mass spectroscopy, etc. Direct measurements on the skin or hair using techniques such as IR spectroscopy, UV/VIS spectroscopy, opacity measurement, fluorescence spectroscopy, ESCA spectroscopy, and the like are also feasible.

In a typical deposition measurement method, the product of the present invention is moistened with water and a foam is generated by pressing and rubbing. The composition is then rubbed for 15 seconds onto an area of 25 to 300 cm ² , preferably 50 to 100 cm ² , of the skin or scalp that has been marked with a suitable indelible marker. The area is then rinsed for 10 seconds and then allowed to air dry for 10 minutes. The area is then either extracted and the extracts analyzed, or analyzed directly using the techniques described above.

Examples of embodiments of the invention

The following examples further describe and demonstrate embodiments of the present invention. In the following examples, all ingredients are listed at active concentration. The examples are provided for illustration only and are not intended to limit the present invention, many variations are possible without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention.

Ingredients are identified by chemical or CTFA names, all percentages given are by weight.

Examples 1 to 5

I. Surfactant phase

In a suitable container, mix the following ingredients at room temperature. If necessary, heat to ensure complete dispersion.

Ingredients % by weight Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 Example 5 Water QS 100 QS 100 QS 100 QS 100 QS 100 Polyquaternium-10 0.25 — — — — PEG 14M 0.5 — - 0.5 — Hydroxypropyltriammonium chloride — — -- — 0.5 Hydroxyethylcellulose — 0.25 -- — — Guar gum — 0.25 — — —

The following ingredients are added to the above mixture while stirring.

Disodium EDTA 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate 3.33 3.33 3.33 3.33 3.33 Sodium lauroamphoacetate — — — — 3.33 Cocamidopropyl betaine 3.33 3.33 3.33 3.33 — Decyl polyglucoside 3.33 3.33 3.33 3.33 3.33 Methylparaben 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 Phenoxyethanol 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Benzyl alcohol 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3

In a separate mixing bowl, combine the following ingredients. Mix until the propylparaben dissolves (heating to 40°C if necessary).

Water 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Butylene glycol 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Propylparaben 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15

This mixture is added to the first mixing vessel. 1.5 to 2.5 g of the resulting mixture is applied to the substrate described herein and then dried.

Phase II with active skin care ingredient

In a suitable container, mix the following ingredients at room temperature. If necessary, heat to ensure complete dispersion.

Water QS 100 QS 100 QS 100 QS 100 QS 100 Glycerin 60.0 40.0 0.0 50.0 30.0 Dexpanthenol 1.0 4.0 2.0 4.0 4.0 Urea — — — 2.0 — PEG-30 — 20.0 25.0 5.0 Lactic acid — — 4.0 — — Dihydroxyacetone 4.0 — — — —

• ••· « · 99

9 ♦

9 9

9 9 « « · · · 9 9 9 9

999 99 ·♦· ♦·* ^and * ··

Niacinamide — — — 5.0 10.0 Arbutin — 3.0 — — — Koji acid — — 3.0 — — Allantoin — — — 2.0 2.0 Propylene glycol — 5.0 30.0 — — Polyquaternium-10 — 3.0 — — — PEG 14M 5.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 5.0 Hydroxyethylcellulose — — 2.0 2.0 — Guar gum — — - 1.0 —

0.10 to 1.0 g of the Surfactant Phase is applied to a dry substrate containing the Surfactant Phase. Any added water is dried off. The resulting cleansing product is used wet with water and is useful for cleansing the skin or hair and for depositing skin care actives into the skin or hair. Alternatively, the Skin Care Active Phase is added to an insoluble substrate or impregnated into the insoluble substrate prior to the Surfactant Phase, unless the surfactant is added in/on. This alternative method is possible when using extrusion or gravure printing application methods.

Examples 6 to 10

I. Surfactant phase

In a suitable container, mix the following ingredients at room temperature. If necessary, heat to ensure complete dispersion.

Ingredients % by weight Example 6 Example 7 Example 8 Example 9 Example Water QS 100 QS 100 QS 100 QS 100 QS 100 Polyquaternium-10 — — — 0.25 - PEG 14M 0.5 — — 0.5 — Hydroxypropyltriammonium chloride — — - - 0.5 Hydroxyethylcellulose — 0.25 — — —

Guar gum — 0.25 — — —

The following ingredients are added to the above mixture while stirring.

Disodium EDTA 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate 3.33 3.33 3.33 3.33 3.33 Sodium lauroamphoacetate — — — — 3.33 Cocamidopropyl betaine 3.33 3.33 3.33 3.33 — Decyl polyglucoside 3.33 3.33 3.33 3.33 3.33 Methylparaben 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 Phenoxyethanol 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Benzyl alcohol 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3

In a separate mixing bowl, combine the following ingredients. Mix until the propylparaben dissolves (heating to 40°C if necessary).

Water 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Butylene glycol 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Propylparaben 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15

This mixture is added to the first mixing vessel. 1.5 to 2.5 g of the resulting mixture is applied to the substrate described herein and then dried.

Phase II with active skin care ingredient

In a suitable container, mix the following ingredients and heat until melted (75 to 115 °C).

SEFA* Cottonate 48.00 43.00 46.00 48.00 48.00 SEFA* Run around 12.00 — — — - Petrolatum 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 Tribehenin 5.00 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0

©··· © · «© ©· ©© © ·· ·♦ · ©· © © · « © »··© • ©« · ©♦·»»· • © © ♦ · ·©©♦ ©·© ·© ©♦* ♦·· ©♦ ©· 70

Polyethylene wax — 9.0 9.0 9.0 — Paraffin — — — — 12.00 Synthetic beeswax — 3.0 3.0 3.0 — C10-C30 cholesterol / lanosterol esters 18.00 23.00 23.00 23.00 20.00 Vitamin E Acetate — 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0

* SEFA is an acronym for sucrose esters of fatty acids

The following ingredients are added to the above uniform molten mixture

Retinyl palmitate — — 2.0 — 1.0 PPG-15 stearyl ether 5.0* — — — Salicylic acid 2.0* — — — Titanium dioxide — 5.0 — — 2.0

* These ingredients are mixed until the salicylic acid dissolves

0.05 to 0.75 g of this phase is applied to the substrate containing the surfactant phase. This skin care active phase is applied in a liquid or molten state and then cooled. The resulting cleansing product is used under water moistening and is useful for cleansing the skin or hair and for consistently depositing the skin care active ingredients into the skin or hair. Alternatively, the skin care active phase is added to an insoluble substrate or impregnated into the insoluble substrate prior to the surfactant phase, if the surfactant is not added in/on. This alternative method is possible when using extrusion or gravure printing application methods.

Examples 11 to 15

I. Surfactant phase

In a suitable container, mix the following ingredients at room temperature. If necessary, heat to ensure complete dispersion.

¥ ··♦« ¥ · ¥¥ · »· ¥♦ ¥ ¥ « ¥ ¥ · ¥ · ¥ ¥ ¥ * ¥ ¥¥· ¥¥ »♦· ¥¥¥ «¥ ¥¥ » ¥ ¥ ¥ ¥ ♦ ¥ ¥ ¥ ¥ · ¥ ¥ ¥ • * ·¥

Ingredients % by weight Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 Example 5 Water QS 100 QS 100 QS 100 QS 100 QS 100 Polyquaternium-10 0.25 - — — — PEG 14M 0.5 — — 0.5 — Hydroxypropyltriammonium chloride — — - — 0.5 Hydroxyethylcellulose — 0.25 - — — Guar gum — 0.25 — — —

The following ingredients are added to the above mixture while stirring.

Disodium EDTA 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate 3.33 3.33 3.33 3.33 3.33 Sodium lauroamphoacetate — — — — 3.33 Cocamidopropyl betaine 3.33 3.33 3.33 3.33 — Decyl polyglucoside 3.33 3.33 3.33 3.33 3.33 Methylparaben 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 Phenoxyethanol 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Benzyl alcohol 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3

In a separate mixing bowl, combine the following ingredients. Mix until the propylparaben dissolves (heating to 40°C if necessary).

Water 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Butylene glycol 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Propylparaben 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15

This mixture is added to the first mixing vessel. 1.5 to 2.5 g of the resulting mixture is applied to the substrate described herein and then dried.

Phase II with active skin care ingredient ·

In a suitable container, mix the following ingredients and heat until homogeneous (75 to 115 °C).

99 9 • · 9 ·

SEFA* Cottonate 27.36 25.36 46.00 48.00 48.00 SEFA* Run around — — — — — Petrolatum 5.7 5.7 10.00 10.00 10.00 Tribehenin 2.85 2.85 5.0 5.0 5.0 Polyethylene wax 5.13 5.13 9.0 9.0 — Paraffin — — — — 12.00 Synthetic beeswax 1.71 1.71 3.0 3.0 — C10-C30 cholesterol / lanosterol esters 13.1 13.1 23.00 23.00 20.00 Vitamin E Acetate 1.15 1.15 2.0 2.0 2.0 Decaglyceryl dipalmitate 0.3 — 0.3 0.3 - Triglyceryl monostearate 2.7 0.3 2.7 2.7 0.3 Decaglyceryl stearate — 2.7 — — 2.7 Polyglyceryl tristearate — — — — — Retinyl palmitate -- 2.0 2.0 — 1.0

The following ingredients are mixed at room temperature. They are slowly added with stirring to the above uniform mixture.

Water 5.0 2.0 11.0 10.0 0.0 Glycerin 30.0 9.0 5.0 5.0 10.0 Dexpanthenol 1.0 1.0 2.0 4.0 3.0 Urea — — — 2.0 — PEG-30 — 20.0 15.0 12.0 10.0 Lactic acid — — 4.0 — — Dihydroxyacetone 4.0 — — — — Niacinamide — — — 5.0 10.0

··♦· ·» * ♦ 4 · 4

4»

444 44

Arbutin — 3.0 — — — Koji acid — — 3.0 — — Allantoin — — — 2.0 — Propylene glycol — 5.0 — — 7.0

0.05 to 0.75 g of the Surfactant phase is applied to a dry substrate containing the ingredients of the Surfactant phase and allowed to cool. The resulting cleansing product is used under water moistening and is useful for cleansing the skin or hair and for depositing skin care actives into the skin or hair. Alternatively, the Skin Care Active Phase is added to an insoluble substrate or impregnated into the insoluble substrate prior to the Surfactant phase, unless the surfactant is added in/on. This alternative method is possible when using extrusion or gravure printing application methods.

The following alternative manufacturing methods are applicable to any of the examples described above. To condition a two-layer substrate, the foaming surfactants, skin care active ingredient, and beneficial ingredients are separately or simultaneously added to or impregnated into the surface of either i) one or both layers before combining the layers into a laminate, or ii) after combining the layers into a laminate. The process of adding the surfactant and/or conditioning ingredient to the substrate or impregnating the substrate is accomplished by spraying, printing, spraying, dipping, or coating.

Similarly, the foaming surfactant and the skin care active are added to the substrate in any order. Non-limiting examples of sequential steps include i) first adding the surfactant to the second layer, then combining the substrate and treating with the skin care active; ii) first combining the surfactant with the skin care active, then treating the second layer and combining the two layers; iii) first treating the second layer with the surfactant and then the skin care active, then combining the two layers, before actually combining the two layers.

In alternative embodiments, the substrate used is replaced with other substrates, such as woven substrates, hydroentangled substrates, natural sponges, synthetic sponges, or polymeric crosslinked mesh nets.

Industrial usability φ φ φφ φ φ φ φ φ φ φ φ ♦ · φ · φ φ φ φ φ φφ φφ φφφ φ φφ

The present invention relates to a substantially dry, disposable personal hygiene product that is useful for both cleansing the skin or hair and delivering skin care actives to the skin or hair. These products are used by the consumer to moisten the dry product with water and mechanical force, e.g., by rubbing, generate a lather from the moistened product, and apply the lather to the skin in a manner conventionally used for cleansing the skin.

Claims (25)

PATENT CLAIMS 1. A disposable personal hygiene cleansing product comprising: A) a water-insoluble substrate; B) at least one foaming surfactant added to or impregnated into the substrate; and C) a skin care active comprising at least one skin care active selected from the group consisting of water-soluble skin care actives, oil-soluble skin care actives, and mixtures thereof; the skin care active being added to or impregnated into the substrate; the cleansing product being substantially dry and capable of generating an average foam volume greater than or equal to 30 ml. 2. A disposable personal hygiene cleansing product according to claim 1, wherein the foaming surfactant represents 0.5 to 40 wt. % of the weight of the water-insoluble substrate and the skin care active ingredient represents 0.001 to 50 wt. % of the weight of the water-insoluble substrate. 3. A disposable personal hygiene cleansing product according to any one of the preceding claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the cleansing product deposits more than 0.001 pg/cm ² of skin care active agent on the surface of the skin or hair. 4. A disposable personal hygiene cleaning product according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it further comprises at least one deposition promoting agent added to or impregnated into the substrate, 5. A disposable personal hygiene cleansing product according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the skin care active is selected from the group consisting of anti-acne actives, anti-wrinkle actives, anti-skin atrophy actives, skin barrier repair actives, non-steroidal cosmetic soothing agents, artificial tanning and accelerating agents, skin lightening actives, antimicrobial and φ φ φ antifungal agents, active substances filtering sunlight, sebum stimulants, sebum inhibitors, antioxidants and mixtures thereof. 6. A disposable personal hygiene cleansing product according to claim 4, characterized in that the active ingredient for skin care is selected from the group consisting of salicylic acid, niacinamide, nicotinic acid, benzoyl peroxide, cis-retinoic acid, trans-retinoic acid, retinol, retinyl palmitate, phytic acid, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, azelaic acid, lipoic acid, resorcinol, lactic acid, glycolic acid, ibuprofen, naproxen, hydrocortisone, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamic acid, oxybenzone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, dihydroxyacetone, panthenol, arbutin, deoxyarbutin, kojic acid, allantoin, cholesterol, C10-C30 cholesterol/lanosterol esters, tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate and mixtures thereof. 7. A disposable personal hygiene cleansing product according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the skin care active is in the form of an emulsion comprising a) a discontinuous phase comprising water-soluble compounds selected from the group consisting of water, water-soluble skin care actives and mixtures thereof and b) a continuous phase comprising oil-soluble skin care actives. 8. A disposable personal hygiene cleansing product according to claim 8, characterized in that it further comprises 0 to 20 wt. % of the active skin care emulsion of emulsifiers capable of forming a discontinuous and continuous phase emulsion, and the emulsifier is selected from one or more emulsifiers such that the weight average arithmetic HLB value is 1 to 7. 9. A disposable personal hygiene cleaning product according to any one of the preceding claims 4 to 8, characterized in that the deposition promoting agent is selected from the group consisting of nonionic polymers, cationic polymers, non-polymeric cationic surfactants and mixtures thereof. 9 9 9 9 9 * ♦ · · • · · 10. A disposable personal hygiene cleaning product according to claim 9, wherein the deposition promoting agent is selected from the group consisting of gums, cellulose-derived polymers, protein-derived polymers, polymer ethers, synthetic polymers, and mixtures thereof. 11. A disposable personal hygiene cleaning product according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the water-insoluble substrate comprises at least one substance selected from the group consisting of silk, keratin, cellulose, acetates, acrylics, cellulose esters, modacrylics, polyamides, polyolefins, polyvinyl alcohols, pulp, cotton, hemp, jute, flax, acrylics, nylons, polyesters, polypropylenes, polyethylenes, polyvinyl acetates, polyurethanes, rayon and mixtures thereof. 12. The disposable personal hygiene cleaning product of claim 11, wherein the water-insoluble substrate is selected from the group consisting of nonwoven substrates, woven substrates, hydroentangled substrates, natural sponges, synthetic sponges, polymeric crosslinked mesh nets, formed films, and mixtures thereof. 13. The disposable personal hygiene cleaning product of claim 12, wherein the water-insoluble substrate comprises a nonwoven sheet of fibers selected from the group consisting of rayon fibers, cellulosic fibers, polyester fibers, and mixtures thereof. 14. A disposable personal hygiene cleaning product according to any one of the preceding claims 1-13, characterized in that the water-insoluble substrate comprises two or more sheets of fibers, each with a different texture. 15. A disposable personal hygiene cleaning product according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 14, characterized in that the foaming surfactant is selected from the group consisting of anionic foaming surfactants, nonionic foaming surfactants, amphoteric foaming surfactants and mixtures thereof. 16. A disposable personal hygiene cleaning product according to claim 15, characterized in that the anionic foaming surfactant is selected from the group consisting of sarcosinates, sulfates, isethionates, phosphates, taurates, lactylates, glutamates and mixtures thereof, the nonionic foaming surfactant is selected from the group consisting of amide oxides, alkyl glucosides, alkyl polyglucosides, polyhydroxy fatty acid amides, alkoxylated fatty acid esters, sucrose esters and mixtures thereof, and the amphoteric foaming surfactant is selected from the group consisting of betaines, sultaines, hydroxysultaines, alkyl iminoacetates, imino dialkanoates, aminoalkanoates and mixtures thereof. 17. A disposable personal hygiene cleansing product according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 16, characterized in that the active skin care ingredient further comprises a conditioning component added to or impregnated into the substrate separately from the foaming surfactant, the conditioning component comprising a conditioning agent selected from the group consisting of oil-soluble conditioning agents, water-soluble conditioning agents, lipid-stabilizing agents, and mixtures thereof. 18. A disposable personal hygiene cleansing product according to any one of the preceding claims 1-17, wherein the skin care active ingredient has a hardness value greater than 0.02 kg. 19. A disposable personal hygiene cleansing product according to any one of the preceding claims 17 or 18, characterized in that the oil-soluble conditioning agent and the lipid stiffening agent are selected from the group consisting of fatty acids, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohols, ethoxylated alcohols, polyol polyesters, glycerin monoesters, glycerin polyesters, epidermal and sebaceous hydrocarbons, lanolin, mineral oil, silicone oil, silicone rubber, vegetable oil, vegetable oil adduct, petrolatum, nonionic polymers, hydrogenated vegetable oils, nonionic polymers, natural waxes, synthetic waxes, polyolefin glycols, polyolefin monoester, polyolefin polyesters, cholesterols, cholesterol esters and mixtures thereof, and the water-soluble conditioning agent is selected from the group consisting of glycerin, glycerol, propylene glycol, polypropylene glycols, polyethylene glycols, ethylhexanediol, ... » · · • · · » ·»·· • ·« * ···♦·· ··· » · ···· ··« ·♦ »·· ··· ··· ··· hexylene glycols, other aliphatic alcohols, panthenol, urea, cationic polymers, polyols, glycolic acid, lactic acid and mixtures thereof. 20. A method of manufacturing a disposable personal hygiene cleansing product, characterized in that A) separately or simultaneously adding to or impregnating into a water-insoluble substrate i) at least one foaming surfactant added to or impregnated into a water-insoluble substrate and ii) a skin care active comprising at least one skin care active selected from the group consisting of water-soluble skin care actives, oil-soluble skin care actives, and mixtures thereof; and B) the product prepared according to step A) is substantially dried and the resulting product is capable of generating an average foam volume greater than or equal to 30 ml. 21. A method of manufacturing a disposable personal hygiene cleansing product according to claim 20, characterized in that the active skin care ingredient is added to the water-insoluble substrate or impregnated into the water-insoluble substrate separately from the foaming surfactant according to step A). 22. A method of manufacturing a disposable personal hygiene cleansing product according to any one of the preceding claims 20 or 21, characterized in that step A) further comprises adding a compound selected from the group consisting of deposition promoting agents, oil-soluble conditioning agents, water-soluble conditioning agents, lipid stiffening agents and mixtures thereof. 23. A method of cleansing the skin or hair and depositing a skin care active to the skin or hair by means of a personal care cleansing product, characterized by A) generating a foam in an amount corresponding to an average foam volume greater than or equal to 30 ml, wetting a substantially dry disposable personal care cleansing product with water and rubbing the substantially dry disposable personal care cleansing product comprising i) a water-insoluble substrate, ii) at least one foaming surfactant and iii) a skin care active comprising at least one skin care active selected from * ¥··· ¥ · • • ¥ ¥¥ • * ¥ • · · ¥ ¥ ¥ ¥ ¥ »· ·¥ ¥ ¥ ¥ ¥ ¥ • ¥ · • · · • ¥ · « ¥ · « ·· ·¥ groups containing water-soluble skin care actives, oil-soluble skin care actives, and mixtures thereof; and B) the skin or hair is contacted with the product and the foam formed from the product. 24. A method of cleansing the skin or hair and depositing a skin care active into the skin or hair with a personal care cleansing product according to claim 23, characterized in that the product used in step A) further comprises a compound selected from the group consisting of deposition promoting agents, oil-soluble conditioning agents, water-soluble conditioning agents, lipid-stabilizing agents, and mixtures thereof. 25. A method of cleansing the skin or hair and depositing a skin care active into the skin or hair with a personal care cleansing product according to any one of the preceding claims 23 or 24, characterised in that the skin care active is delivered to the skin or hair with a deposition consistency of at least 60