CZ20004094A3 - High quality cosmetic composition comprising at least one filmogenic polymer - Google Patents

Abstract

The solution relates to a cosmetic preparation containing at least one film-forming polymer or a mixture of film-forming polymers in a cosmetically suitable environment. At a given concentration of polymers in the preparation, the mechanical profile of said polymer or mixture of polymers in a hydrated alcohol environment with a 20% ethanol content is defined at least by - a) the attachment angle is greater than 47 - b) if the angle is greater than or equal to 90°, then the magnitude of the maximum peeling force Fmax is less than 5N.

Description

A high quality cosmetic composition comprising at least one filmogenic polymer.

Technical field

The present invention provides a cosmetic composition comprising at least one filmogenic polymer having a particular mechanical profile. The invention also relates to a cosmetic process comprising the application of the composition as well as its use for fixing and / or maintaining the shape of the hairstyle.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

The compositions of the invention may be applied to the skin, nails, lips and keratin fibers (hair, eyebrows and eyelashes).

For the purposes of the present invention, the term " styling composition " means a product intended to strengthen and / or maintain the shape of a hairstyle.

There are already cosmetic styling compositions containing polymers which are converted into a solution or dispersion of a substance in a solvent in which additives may optionally also be present. The products are applied to the hair by spray or by hand. After evaporation of the solvent, usually water or alcohol, a film remains on the hair which results in a styling effect.

The basic ingredients of the styling product are usually selected so that the film formed on the hair after the product has dried is either solid (if not stiff) or at least elastic.

If the hair dries without mechanical stress, eg naturally, it creates welds between the hairs, which allows to maintain the hairstyle in the desired

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0 0 0 0 • 0 0 0 0 0 «0« · · · 0 «« 0 0 «shape. Welds serve as contact points and we can detect their presence when we adjust the hair by hand.

However, when combing or combing the hair, welds break and the shape of the hair changes. This phenomenon also occurs when the hair is exposed to external mechanical influences (eg sudden abrupt movements or wind).

If, after applying the styling product, the hair is dried and mechanically stressed (eg blown), it is not a weld between the hair but a compact film covering the hair. In this case, the milder styling effect disappears even faster at the first strong gust of wind or at first stress.

Another disadvantage of the cosmetic products used so far (and in particular capillary products) is that these preparations can impair the quality of keratin fibers (e.g. hair). Hair is drier, easily breaks and loses its natural structure.

For this reason, it is necessary to find cosmetic products which would provide a more durable firming of keratinous substances (especially hair) than the existing products, while also providing them with satisfactory cosmetic properties.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The Applicant has suddenly and surprisingly discovered that it is possible to produce cosmetic compositions meeting the above claims. However, it is necessary to carefully select the polymers to be used for the preparation of such a formulation.

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The present invention provides a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable environment, at least one phenoxy polymer or blend of phenoxy polymers. The mechanical profile of said polymer or polymer blend is defined at least by the concentration of the polymers of the formulation in a 20% ethanol hydrated alcohol environment by:

- (a) the mounting angle α is greater than 47 °

(b) if the angle α is greater than or equal to 90 °, then the maximum peel force F _max is less than 5N.

The F _max value is preferably less than 2N.

Another object of the present invention is a cosmetic process using this composition.

Another object of the present invention is still the use of a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable environment, at least one phiogenic polymer or a mixture of phiogenic polymers. The mechanical profile of said polymer or polymer blend is defined at least by the concentration of the polymers of the formulation in a 20% ethanol hydrated alcohol environment by:

- (a) the mounting angle α is greater than 47 °

(b) if it is greater than or equal to 90 °, the maximum peel force F _{max is} less than 5N.

The F _max value is preferably less than 2N.

Polyurethane "PA Marin UA 200", available from Sanyo's commercial network, is a film-polymer that is particularly suitable for use in the present invention. In particular, combinations of a polymer containing polyacrylic acid groups ("AVALURE AC315" supplied to Goodrich's commercial network) with either vinylcaprolactam-PVP-dimethylaminoethyl-499 methacrylate copolymer (supplied to ISP's commercial network under the name "Gaffix VC") 713 "), or with a bonded silicone copolymer labeled POLYSILICONE 8, which is marketed under the trade name" VS 80 "by 3M. In these combinations, the polymers are present in special concentrations.

The term “F _max ” is defined as the maximum tractive force measured by an extensometer. This is the force that we must exert to remove the mutual surfaces (0.95 cm ² ) of two substrates (A) and (B). The substrates are rigid, inert and non-absorbent and are placed opposite each other. The above mentioned areas are impregnated with the above-mentioned concentrated preparation with the dry matter content c in the ratio 4 / c mg.cm. They are then dried for 48 hours at 22 ° C at 50% relative humidity. Then press them with 3 N for 20 seconds and then apply a 10 mm / min thrust for 60 seconds. Parameter c represents the concentration of dry matter in the preparation (g dry matter / g preparation).

The substrates (A) and (B) to be used are preferably made of polyethylene, polypropylene, metal alloy or glass.

The mounting angle α is determined according to the procedure below.

We will make the first film whose size will be 243 cm. The film is obtained by first placing a petri dish in a petri dish sufficient to allow 0.8 g of substance to remain in the dish after drying for 48 hours at 50% relative humidity. Let's label the movie Fi.

We create a coaxial apparatus consisting of 2 cylinders, a glass disc forming a plate and a film F ₂ .

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At one end of the first cylinder, whose height is 0.6 cm and diameter 2.2 cm, place a plate whose diameter is 1.1 cm and height 0.3 cm.

On the other end of the same cylinder we place a second cylinder whose height is 2 cm and its diameter is 0.5 cm.

The total weight of the apparatus is 13.4 g. The center of gravity lies on the transverse axis at a distance of 0.4 cm from the outer surface of the plate.

Prepare the second film F ₂ by placing an amount of the preparation on the outer surface of the plate so that after drying the plate is covered with a compound of 4 mg. For 48 hours at ambient temperature and 50% relative humidity, the apparatus is left in this state.

We attach the film Fj to a horizontal surface. Place the apparatus on the film Fj so that it can be removed at any time and that the film F ₂ is completely in contact with the film Fp

Then begin to tilt the horizontal surface at 11 ° / s until the apparatus slides. The measured angle attachment OTL is the angle between the film and the horizontal access when the surface of the film F ₂ starts to move relative to the film surface Fi.

Repeat the experiment with the same plate four times in succession and calculate the average angle value for this plate as well. The same experiment is carried out with a total of 4 different plates and calculates the average value of the measured attachment angles.

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In accordance with the invention, the angle α is preferably greater than 50 °.

In the compositions according to the invention, the concentration of the ilmogenic polymer (or polymers) is in particular 0.05% to 20%, in particular 0.1% to 15% and more preferably 0.25% to 10% of the total weight of the composition.

The cosmetically acceptable environment consists primarily of water or one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents, of which alcohols or water-solvent mixtures (a) may be mentioned, the solvents being preferably C1-C4 carbon chains.

Among these alcohols, mention may be made of ethanol and isopropanol, preferably ethanol.

The composition according to the invention may also contain at least one additive, which may be thickeners, surfactants (anionic, nonpolar, cationic or amphoteric), perfumes, preservatives, solar filters, proteins, vitamins, provitamins, non-toxic polymers (anionic, cationic, nonpolar, amphoteric), oils (mineral, vegetable or synthetic), waxes, ceramides or pseudokeramides. Other commonly used cosmetic ingredients that are applied to the hair may also be used.

Of course, one skilled in the art will select any suitable compound (s) which will then be added to the composition of the invention so that its advantageous properties are not (or not substantially) impaired.

There are various forms of preparations. Most often they are mechanical spray or propellant gas containers consisting of the container itself as well as a sprayer or foamer that allows application

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hair care product. Individual forms are properly labeled (eg spray, lacquer or foam for fixation or hair treatment). The compositions made in accordance with the invention may also be in the form of creams, gels, emulsions, hair lotions or waxes.

If the composition according to the invention is manufactured in the form of an aerosol, which can be applied in the form of a lacquer or foam, it comprises at least one propellant. The propellant may be one of the volatile hydrocarbons, of which n-butane, propane, isobutane, pentane, chloro- or fluoro-hydrocarbons and mixtures thereof may be mentioned. Carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, dimethyl ether (DME), nitrogen, compressed air can also be used as propellant. Mixtures of propellants may also be used. Preferably, however, dimethyl ether is used.

The concentration of the propellant is preferably 5% to 90% by weight of the formulation in the aerosol can, especially 10% to 60%.

The compositions made according to the invention may be applied to dry or wet hair.

The invention will be better understood by reference to the following non-exhaustive example, which illustrates preferred embodiments of the compositions in accordance with the invention.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

EXAMPLE 1

In accordance with the invention we mix the following preparations:

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Preparation 1

Avalure AC 315 (Goodrich) Gaffix VC 713 (I.S.P.)

Water

Preparation 2

PA Marin UA-200 (SANYO) Water g active mass enough. quantity up to 100 g

We measure the effect of catching extension and adhesion of the polymer or polymer mixture 2 of 1 and the value F _max and angle. The results are summarized in Table 1.

Table 1

Preparation Effect of attachment and O Grip F _max (Newton) 1 50 ° 0.3 2 90 ° * 4.2

*: the device does not slip at 90 °. The experiment was stopped.

Industrial applicability

The two formulations mixed in accordance with the invention will give a very good natural and long-lasting effect after application to the natural hair without negative hair sticking.

Claims (9)

PATENT CLAIMS CLAIMS 1. A cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically suitable environment, at least one fumogenic polymer or filmogenic polymer blend, wherein at a given concentration of polymers in the composition, at least 20% of the alcoholic alcohol content is defined by the mechanical profile of said polymer or polymer blend. that - a) attachment angle and greater than 47 ° - b) if the angle αe is greater than or equal to 90 °, then the maximum peel force F _{max is} less than 5N. Device according to claim 1, characterized in that in the case of point b of claim 1, the F _{max is} less than 2N. Device according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the angle α is greater than 50 °. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the concentration of the filmogenic polymer (or polymers) is in particular 0.05% to 20%, in particular 0.1% to 15% and even more preferably 0.25% to 10% total weight of the preparation. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetically suitable environment consists primarily of water or of one or more more cosmetically suitable solvents, of which we may mention alcohols or water-solvent mixtures (a), the solvents being mainly carbon chain alcohols C1-C4. -10 • · Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it may additionally contain at least one additive which may be a thickening agent, a surfactant (anionic, non-polar, cationic or amphoteric), perfumes, preservatives, solar filters, proteins, vitamins, provitamins, non-fixing polymers (anionic, cationic, nonpolar, amphoteric), oils (mineral, vegetable or synthetic), waxes, ceramides or pseudoceramides, and all other commonly used cosmetic additives that are applied to the hair. 7. A propellant container comprising a composition that is in accordance with any of the preceding claims. 8. A cosmetic process comprising applying a composition according to one of claims 1 to 6. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6 for fixing and / or forming a hairstyle.