CZ2000912A3 - Preparation for care of hair - Google Patents

Abstract

Hair care composition in the form of an oil in water, which is an effective ingredient for regenration split The hair tips contain 0.1 to 10% by weight in fat soluble ester alcohol or ester polyol obtainable by reacting an epoxy fatty acid ester with water or s monohydric or polyhydric alcohol of 1 to 10 atoms carbon as an oil phase component and 0.1 to 3 wt% a known substance that reduces cleavage of the hair ends of the group panthenol, nicotinic acid amide, sugars, polyvinylpyrrolidone or mixtures thereof as an ingredient aqueous phase.

Description

Technical field

The present invention relates to a hair care composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in particular for hair with split ends. The composition comprises an effective combination of lipid and water soluble substances.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Frayed hair tips are a phenomenon that results from increased hair porosity and, in particular, splitting of the hair tips, for example, by severe mechanical stress on the hair during frequent brushing, tupping and similar hair conditioning techniques. High hair resistance when combing can also damage the hair surface, create static charge, or increase hair stickiness due to the presence of hairspray residues. When the ends of the hair split, the hair structure is also weakened. Frequent use of hair styling chemicals, such as dyeing or permanent waving, may also contribute to this attenuation.

Efforts have been made to regenerate hair that has been damaged and has frayed ends. In particular, the aim is to prevent further fraying so that hair is healthy again after regeneration.

DE 195 14 268 discloses cosmetic compositions containing ester polyols, the compositions are intended to be applied to the hair, and an increase in tensile strength after administration is described. The possibility of regenerating frayed hair ends is not described.

DE 37 11 841 A1 discloses a hair regeneration composition which contains, as a water-soluble active substance, for reducing the splitting of hair ends, for example panthenol or glucose, resp. in combination with polyvinylpyrrolidone.

It is known from DE 44 40 315 A1 that when using a combination of mono- and oligosaccharides and their derivatives with panthenol with frfrfr frfr frfr fr fr fr o fr Cationic hair regeneration with split ends may occur.

According to the patent specification, the rate of cleavage of damaged hair is reduced. As hair rinsing products and shampoos are proposed, the resulting effect is not always satisfactory due to the short action of the composition.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION It is an object of the present invention to provide a hair care composition which can substantially improve the health condition of damaged hair, particularly hair with split ends.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention provides a hair-care composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising 0.1-10% by weight of a fat-soluble ester alcohol or ester polyol which is obtainable by reacting an epoxy fatty acid ester with a monohydric or polyhydric alcohol of 1 to 10%. 6 to 0.1% by weight of the known panthenol-reducing compound of the panthenol group, nicotinic acid amide, sugars, polyvinylpyrrolidone or mixtures thereof as aqueous phase components.

The compositions according to the invention may take the form of products which do not need to be washed out of the hair and remain on the hair, such as hardeners or hair styling or rubbing agents, but may also be rinsed off the hair after use. , such as shampoos, rinses, waving or hair dyes.

Of particular importance is that the compositions comprise an emulsified oil phase in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion or microemulsion.

Fat-soluble ester alcohols or ester polyols are known in the literature and are commercially available. Fat-soluble products are considered to be possible when 5% of such product can be dissolved in cetyl alcohol at 80 ° C to a clear solution.

The ester alcohols or ester polyols suitable for use in the compositions of the invention may be prepared by reacting epoxy fatty acid esters with water or a monohydric or polyhydric alcohol of 1 to 10 carbon atoms to open the epoxy ring while forming adjacent dihydroxyethyl or hydroxyalkoxyethyl groups. The epoxy fatty acid esters for this use may also be the epoxidation products of industrial fatty acid esters with an unsaturated fatty acid content. The epoxy oxygen content of these acids should be at least 3% by weight, preferably 5 to 10% by weight.

The epoxy fatty acid esters are epoxidized esters of monohydric alcohols, for example, they may be oleic acid methyl ester, linoleic acid methyl ester, ricinolic acid methyl ester, or they may be polyhydric alcohol esters such as glycerol monooleate or propylene glycol monooleate or epoxidized fatty acid glycerides or o unsaturated oil derivatives such as olive, soybean, sunflower, linseed or rapeseed oil.

Of particular technical interest are the epoxides of unsaturated fatty acid methyl esters from unsaturated vegetable fats. Especially preferred is the ester polyol, which is the reaction product of vegetable fat methyl esters of a polyol having 2 to 6 carbon atoms and two to 6 hydroxyl groups. Among the polyols, for example, ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, butanediol, pentanediol, hexanediol, glycerol, trimethylopropane, pentaerythritol, sorbitol or diglycerol may be included.

Especially preferred is the use of ester polyols from the reaction product group of epoxidized vegetable fatty acid methyl esters with trimethylpropane having a hydroxyl number of 350-450. Trimethylolpropane is commercially available under the trade name Sovermol ^R 760.

The invention also relates to the use of ester polyols obtainable by the reaction of epoxy fatty acid esters having an oxygen content in epoxy groups of at least 3% by weight with water or a C 1 -C 10 monohydric or polyhydric alcohol as liposoluble substances in combating hair cleavage water-soluble active substances in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

Among the known water-soluble active ingredients for use herein, the composition may contain, for example, sugars such as monosaccharides or disaccharides. Suitable monosaccharides include glucose, fructose, mannose, but also deoxy sugars such as fucose or rhamnose. Suitable disaccharides are, for example, sucrose, cellobiose, lactose or maltose.

Another known effective agent for reducing hair fraying is nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably used in an amount of 0.1 to 1% by weight. This substance is also referred to as vitamin B3 and is used as a topical deodorant and as a topical hair loss treatment. Although this substance is used to reduce the breakdown of hair ends, this effect has never been proven.

Panthenol and its derivatives, such as cationic derivatives such as Panthequat ^R (CTFA), are further water-soluble active ingredients for reducing hair fission.

Panthenylhydroxypropylsteardimonium chloride) as well as polyvinylpyrrolidone. These water-soluble compounds are preferably used in combination. The composition according to the invention preferably comprises 1 to 2% by weight of sugar and 0.1 to 1% by weight of panthenol.

A combination of panthenol and nicotinic amide can also be advantageously used as the water-soluble active ingredient in the compositions of the invention. For this purpose, they can be used in a weight ratio of 1: 1 to 10: 1.

• 4 · 4 · 4 · _ · 4 · _ · 4 ··· ····· g ···· ··

The compositions according to the invention may contain, in addition to the aforementioned active ingredients, the usual excipients used for this purpose and conventional carriers.

In particular, they are the fat and oil components necessary for emulsion formation and also emulsifiers.

Of the oily or fat components, conventional paraffins may be used, for example, paraffin oils, natural or synthetic fatty acid esters, silicone oils, fatty alcohols or dialkyl ethers. In the case of rinsing agents, particularly preferred components are, for example, C14-C22 fatty alcohols, in particular cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. However, fatty acid esters such as isopropyl myristate, nhexyl laurate or n-decyl oleate, synthetic triglycerides such as caprylic and capric triglyceride or natural triglycerides such as refined vegetable oils are also very preferred for the same purposes.

Di-n-alkyl ethers, such as di-n-octyl ether, are particularly suitable as oil components in the preparation of microemulsions.

Anionic, cationic or nonionic surfactants as well as surfactants with both types of ions can be used as emulsifiers. Cationic surfactants have the advantage of counteracting the static charge of the hair and in this way improve the possibility of their combing and reduce the risk of splitting the ends.

In addition, cationic surfactants are known to be advantageous in the production of low-viscosity fatty alcohol dispersions, for which an amount of 0.1 to 1 part by weight of cationic quaternary ammonium surfactant is sufficient to stabilize 10 to 25 parts by weight of cetyl alcohol or stearyl alcohol.

As an oil component, the compositions according to the invention preferably comprise a mixture of paraffin oils, fatty alcohols and, if appropriate, an oil. fatty acid esters. In these cases, mixtures of cationic and nonionic surfactants can be used as emulsifiers. Among the cationic surfactants, for example, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or φα · · · ea · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · ea · ea · ea · ea · ea · ea · ea · ea · ea · ea · Ζ nonionic emulsifiers can be used, for example, addition products of 10 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and fatty alcohols of 16 to 22 carbon atoms, monoglycerides of fatty acids, monoesters of sorbitan fatty acid or monoesters of methylglycoside fatty acid. Other suitable nonionic emulsifiers are, for example, polyglycerol esters of fatty acids and mixtures thereof with fatty acid esters derived from methylglucose or alkyloligoglycosides. They are particularly suitable for the preparation of oil-in-water microemulsions.

Fatty acid monoglycerides or diglycerides, sorbitan fatty acid esters or propylene glycol fatty acid esters can also be used as oil-soluble auxiliary emulsifiers.

In addition, known water-soluble polymers or cellulose derivatives may be included in the composition of the invention to adjust the viscosity, e.g., for thickening, and the anionic polymers should not be used in combination with cationic surfactants due to their possible interaction. Particularly preferred are nonionic polymers such as methylhydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylguar gum, polyvinylpyrrolidone or hydroxyethyl starch derivatives.

Other excipients which may be included in the compositions of the present invention to prolong the cosmetic effect are e.g.

- structuring agents such as maleic acid,

- hair styling polymers,

- conditioners such as phospholipids such as soya lecithin, cephalins, silicone oils, protein or protein hydrolysates, water-soluble cationic polymers, quaternized protein hydrolysates, plant extracts, allantoin, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid salts and vitamins,

- anti-dandruff agents such as Zink Omadine, Piroctone Olamine, salicylic acid and other antifungal agents effective against Pityrosporum Oval,

- light-protective devices, eg UV-absorbing devices,

- hair dyes or precursors to such dyes,

- oxidizing agents for permanent waving, for example alkali metal bromates or hydrogen peroxide.

In addition, conventional carriers and auxiliary agents for processing into emulsions may be included in the composition of the invention to achieve the desired stability, viscosity, appearance, and the like, such as

- solvents or co-solvents such as lower alcohols, glycols or glycerol, diethylene glycol or polyethylene glycol,

- colorants or gloss enhancers,

- pH adjusters and buffers, eg a mixture of citric acid and citrate,

- complexing agents such as acetophosphonates, EDTA or NTA,

- preservatives such as phenoxyethanol or p-hydroxybenzoate,

- perfumes,

antioxidants, or

- propellants for aerosol formulations.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The formulations of the following Table I were prepared:

ΦΦ φ Φ φ φ φ φ φ φ • φ φ • • • • • • φ φ φ φ φ • • • • • • •

Component 1 2 V1 Sovermol * 760 0.5 0.25 - Liquid paraffin 3.5 3.5 3.5 Cetyl / stearyl alcohol 4.8 4.8 4.8 Dehyquart F 75 (1) 0.35 0.35 0.35 Cu.tina GMS 0.3 0.3 0.3 Tego Care 450 (3) 0.4 0.4 0.4 PHB-propyl ester 0.2 0.2 0.2 PHB-methyl ester 0.2 0.2 0.2 Phenoxyethanol - 0.5 0.5 Dehyquart A-CA 3.0 3.0 3.0 Glucose monohydrate 2,0 2,0 2,0 d-panthenol - 0.25 0.5 Nicotinic acid amide - 0.1 - Culminal MHPC 3000 0.6 0.6 0.6 Perfume oil 0.25 0.25 0.25 Water to 100 to 100 to 100 pH 3.5 4.25 3.7 Viscosity Pa.s at 20 ° C Brookfield, Spindel 5.4 Upm 54 53 30 Adjustment of hair fraying in% R (corr.) 20 May 41 14.3

The following commercially available products are used in the manufacture of the compositions of the present invention:

1. Sovermol ^R 760: Reaction product of soybean oil fatty acid methyl ester epoxide with 1 mole trimethylupropane per mole of oxygen in epoxy groups.

2. Dehyquart ^R F 75: Mixture of approximately 70% distearyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methoxysulfate and 30% cetearyl alcohol.

9 99

9

999 9 9 9 99

9999

9

9999 99 99 999

3. Cutina ^R GMS: Glycerol- (mono / di) -stereat / palmitate, approximately% monoglyceride,% diglyceride,% triglyceride,% glycerol.

4. Tego Care 450: Polyglycerol (3) / methyl glucosodistearate.

5. Dehyquart A-CA: Cetyl-trimethylammonium chloride

6. Culminal ^R MHPL 3000: Methylhydroxypropylcellulose viscosity of 2% solution in water at 20 ° C is 3 Pas

Method of production

The components of the oil phase, i.e., Sovermol 760, paraffin oil, cetyl / stearyl alcohol, Dehyquart F75, Cutina GMS, Tego Care 450, PHB ester, and phenoxyethanol are heated to 80 ° C together. Approximately 60% of the water with dissolved Dehyquart ACA is added to the molten mixture, also after heating to 80 ° C, and the mixture is emulsified by stirring. Glucose monohydrate solution is added to the emulsion. % of panthenol and nicotinic amide in about 20% water and the swollen Culminal MHPC in the remaining amount of water at 40 ° C, and the mixture is then further stirred. Finally, the emulsion is stirred at 30 ° C.

After 20 hours of storage, the pH and viscosity of the resulting mixture are measured at 20 ° C.

Tails regeneration tests

Hair tufts which were severed at the ends by mechanical and electrostatic treatment, such as dry combing, were submerged for 15 minutes in the undiluted composition of Examples 1, 2 and V1, then rinsed with tap water of 16 ° hardness and dried . The number of split ends was determined before treatment (Sat) and after treatment (Sb) by counting the respective tips, and the efficacy was expressed by the equation ·················· · · * «* * * * * * * * · · · · · · · · · · · ·

R = S _n -S _b · 100%

AND'

Since pure water has an efficiency of R = 30% in this procedure, the efficiency of each experiment should be corrected as follows:

R (Korr) ⁼ 100%

The calculated activity values R (korr) are summarized in Table I.

Claims (4)

PATENT CLAIMS A hair care composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, characterized in that it contains, as an active ingredient for the regeneration of split hair ends 0.1 to 10% by weight of a fat-soluble ester alcohol or ester polyol, obtainable by reacting an epoxy fatty acid ester with water or a C 1 -C 10 monohydric or polyhydric alcohol as an oil phase component, and 0.1 to 3% by weight of a known panthenol scavenger reducing agent, nicotinic acid amide, sugars, polyvinylpyrrolidone or mixtures thereof as an aqueous phase component. 2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the polyol ester is obtained as the reaction product of an epoxidized fatty acid methyl ester of a vegetable oil having a polyol of 2 to 6 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the ester polyol is obtained as a reaction product of epoxidized fatty acid methyl ester from vegetable oil with trimethylolpropane having a hydroxyl number of 350 to 450. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it comprises panthenol and nicotinic acid amide as the water-soluble active ingredient.