DE20121908U1 - Skin care products containing vitamins - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic and/or dermatological formulations contain retinoid(s), ubiquinone(s) and/or derivative(s) and nitrogenous vitamin(s) selected from biotin, carnitine and/or their derivatives. Cosmetic and/or dermatological formulations contain: (a) retinoid(s); (b) ubiquinone(s) and/or derivative(s); and (c) nitrogenous vitamin(s) selected from biotin, carnitine and/or their derivatives, together with other cosmetic ancillaries, agents and additives. An independent claim is also included for use of cyclodextrin species and/or their derivatives for increasing the solubility and biological effectiveness of retinoids, biotin, carnitine and/or derivatives and ubiquinone and/or derivatives in the form of cosmetic and/or dermatological formulations.

Description

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Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Hamburg

Description Vitamin-containing skin care products

The present invention relates to cosmetic and/or dermatological preparations
containing

a) at least one retinoid,
(b) at least one ubiquinone and/or a derivative thereof and

c) at least one nitrogen-containing active substance from the group biotin, carnitine and/or

their derivatives
along with other cosmetic auxiliaries, active ingredients and additives and their use.

The skin is the largest organ in the human body. Among its many functions (for example, heat regulation and as a sensory organ), the barrier function, which prevents the skin (and ultimately the entire organism) from drying out, is probably the most important. At the same time, the skin acts as a protective device against the penetration and absorption of substances from outside. This barrier function is achieved by the epidermis, which is the outermost layer and forms the actual protective cover against the environment. At around a tenth of the total thickness, it is also the thinnest layer of the skin.

The epidermis is a stratified tissue in which the outer layer, the stratum corneum, is the most important part for the barrier function. It is worn away by contact with the environment and is therefore in a constant renewal process, with fine scales continuously being released to the outside and keratinized cell and lipid material being produced from the inside.

Elias' skin model (P. M. Elias, Structure and Function of the Stratum Corneum Permeability Barrier, Drug Dev. Res. 13, 1988, 97-105), which is now accepted by experts, describes the stratum corneum as a two-component system, similar to a brick wall (brick-mortar model). In this model, the corneocytes correspond to the bricks, and the complex lipid membrane in the intercellular spaces corresponds to the mortar. This system essentially represents a physical barrier.

6713-Dr.Wz/be-201/099

It contains hydrophilic substances, but due to its dense and multi-layered structure, lipophilic substances are also difficult to pass through. The special structure of the stratum corneum protects the skin on the one hand and stabilizes its own flexibility by binding a defined amount of water on the other.
5

Mechanical stresses, such as pressure, impact or shear forces, can be absorbed to an astonishing degree by the stratum corneum alone or in combination with the deeper layers of skin. Greater pressure, rotation or shear forces are passed on to deeper layers of skin via the interlocking of the epidermis with the corium.

Cosmetic skin care primarily means strengthening or restoring the skin's natural function as a barrier against environmental influences (e.g. dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against the loss of the body's own substances (e.g. water, natural fats, electrolytes).

If this function is disrupted, it can lead to increased absorption of toxic or allergenic substances or to infestation by microorganisms and, as a result, to toxic or allergic skin reactions.

The aim of skin care is also to compensate for the loss of fat and water from the skin caused by daily washing. This is particularly important when the natural regeneration capacity is insufficient. Skin care products should also protect against environmental influences, especially sun and wind, and delay skin aging.

Chronological skin aging is caused by endogenous, genetically determined factors. Age-related structural damage and functional disorders in the epidermis and dermis can occur, for example, which can also be referred to as "senile xerosis":

a) Dryness, roughness and formation of dryness wrinkles,

b) Itching and

c) reduced re-oiling by sebaceous glands (e.g. after washing).

Exogenous factors such as UV light and chemical noxious substances can have a cumulative effect and can, for example, accelerate or supplement the endogenous aging processes. In the epidermis and dermis, exogenous factors in particular can cause the following structural damage and functional disorders in the skin, which go beyond the extent and quality of the damage caused by chronological aging:

d) Visible vascular dilations (telangiectasias, cuperosis);

e) flaccidity and formation of wrinkles;

f) local hyper-, hypo- and malpigmentation (e.g. age spots) and

g) increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (ζ. β. cracking).

The present invention relates in particular to products for the care of skin stressed by environmental pollutants such as UV light, ozone, cigarette smoke, as well as for the treatment of the consequences of photoaging, in particular the phenomena listed under a) to g).

Skin care products are well known. They contain, for example, retinoids (vitamin A acid and/or its derivatives) or vitamin A and/or its derivatives. Retinoids belong to the class of monocyclic diterpenes. The primary unsaturated alcohol retinol, also known as vitamin A, has the following structure:

16

17
CH 3 19
_CH3 11
^^ 20
_CH3 15 1 9 ^ _CH2OH eat _CH3
18 all-tran

A number of retinoids have a strong antiseboretic effect (reducing sebaceous gland activity to 10 percent of the initial value), an anti-eratinizing effect, a proliferation-stimulating effect on epidermal cells and an inhibition of cell division in cases of pathologically increased cell division rates. Due to these effects, such retinoids are effective in treating acne. This is particularly true for the retinoids tretinoin and adapalene (G. Kindl, W. Raab, Licht und Haut, Govi-Verlag, 4th edition).

Retinoids are described in numerous patents. The documents WO 98/52536, 98/14167, 98/25587 and EP 0 676 194 describe retinoids in various applications. The documents WO 97/31620 and WO 96/07396 describe combinations of retinoids and biotin, among others, but these could not lead the way to the present invention, since biotin is only used optionally as an antioxidant. Finally, DE 199 43 678 deals with the combination of retinoids and cyclodextrins.

Ubiquinones are a group of substances that have η isoprene units bound in a chain to their quinone ring. Ubiquinones act as electron carriers in biological, mitochondrial oxidation and thus play an important role in the energy metabolism of cells.

Ubiquinones are known from the literature (e.g. Beyer, Walter, Textbook of Organic Chemistry, S. Hirzel-Verlag, Stuttgart, 22nd edition). They are also called mitoquinones or coenzymes Q. The number of isoprene units in the side chain is indicated by η in the designation coenzyme Q-n, where η is an integer. Coenzymes from η = 0 to η = 12 are known. However, the most common is n = 6-10.

Ubiquinones have long been used in cosmetic preparations as antioxidants to protect substances sensitive to oxidation. WO 95/26181 describes ubiquinones in topical preparations. WO 95/26180 describes the combination of ubiquinones and retinols as a skin care product. The disadvantage of the state of the art here is the poor bioavailability of the compounds, which usually remain on the skin with the preparation.

H ₃ CO H ₃ CO

Ubiquinones &eegr;= 6 - 10

Biotin (vitamin H) is one of the bio-growth substances that regulate the embryonic or plasmatic growth of cells and is an essential factor for the proliferation of yeast and other microorganisms. In the human organism, it has been proven to be an active ingredient, vitamin H ₁ , necessary for the normal function of the skin (Beyer, Walter, Textbook of Organic Chemistry, 22nd edition, S. Hirzel Verlag). Biotin is a chiral molecule with three asymmetric carbon atoms and has the following structure:

(CH ₂ ) ₄ COOH

Natural biotin is dextrorotatory and can be synthesized from D-mannose.

Recently, biotin has been increasingly used in cosmetics (e.g.: DE 4242876 and DE 19941769). However, the effectiveness of biotin is generally rather moderate, as the compound is poorly absorbed by the skin.

Carnitine (3-hydroxy-4-(trimethylammonio)-butyric acid betaine) is a compound that exists as a zwitterion. The L-form is widespread in animal tissues and is a characteristic component of striated muscle (Latin: carnis = meat). It serves as a carrier of acyl groups through the mitochondrial membrane in fat metabolism.

(H ₃ C) ₃ N-CH ₂ -CH-CH ₂ -COO"

6
Carnitine

It was therefore the object of the present invention to develop effective cosmetic and/or dermatological preparations which eliminate the deficiencies of the prior art and which are suitable for the prophylaxis and care of aging skin, in particular dry aging skin or photoaged skin.

Completely surprising and unpredictable for the expert, the task
dissolved by cosmetic and/or dermatological preparations containing

a) at least one retinoid,

(b) at least one ubiquinone and/or a derivative thereof and

c) at least one nitrogen-containing active substance from the group biotin, carnitine and/or
their derivatives

along with other cosmetic excipients, active ingredients and additives.

According to the invention, preparations are advantageous which

a) retinoid in a concentration of 0.001 to 1.0% by weight and particularly preferably in a concentration of 0.01 to 0.2% by weight,
b) Ubiquinone in a concentration of 0.001 to 1.0% by weight and especially

preferably in a concentration of 0.01 to 0.3% by weight and
c) biotin, carnitine and/or their derivatives in a concentration of 0.001 to 5% by weight

% and particularly preferably in a concentration of 0.02 to 2% by weight
each based on the total weight of the preparation.
25

The preferred retenoid according to the invention is retinol.

The preferred ubiquinone derivative according to the invention is coenzyme Q 10.
A preferred carnitine derivative according to the invention is acetylcarnitine.

According to the invention, the addition of hydrophilic vitamins, in particular ascorbic acid, folic acid, lipoic acid, pyridoxine and niacinamide, is advantageous.

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According to the invention, the addition of at least one cyclodextrin species and/or its derivatives is advantageous.

According to the invention, cyclodextrin species are understood to mean the native cyclodextrins α-, β- and γ-cyclodextrin. The derivatives of these species include all α-, β- and γ-cyclodextrins that are completely or partially etherified and/or esterified at the hydroxyl groups and/or derivatized in other ways, in particular but not exclusively hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin and methyl-β-cyclodextrin.

According to the invention, a concentration of 0.001 to 5% and in particular 0.1 to 2% by weight based on the total weight of the preparation of at least one cyclodextrin species and/or its derivatives is advantageous. -

The particularly preferred cyclodextrin species according to the invention is γ-cyclodextrin.

According to the invention, the use of cyclodextrin species and/or its derivatives to increase the solubility and bioavailability of retinoids, biotin and ubiquinone and/or its derivatives is advantageous.

Furthermore, the use of cyclodextrin species and/or its derivatives to improve the biological efficacy of retinoids, biotin and ubiquinone and/or its derivatives is advantageous according to the invention.

The cosmetic and/or dermatological preparations according to the invention are used for the treatment and/or prophylaxis of the symptoms of intrinsic and/or extrinsic skin aging, including dry aging skin, for the reduction of fine lines and wrinkles in the skin and/or for improving the elasticity of the skin and for the treatment and/or prophylaxis of the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin and for improving the lipid content of the skin.

The active ingredient combinations according to the invention can be easily incorporated into conventional cosmetic preparations, advantageously sunscreen preparations, but also other preparations, for example pharmaceutical preparations.

Cosmetic preparations generally contain a large number of auxiliary and active ingredients, which can also be advantageously used in the preparations according to the invention.

According to the invention, the usual antioxidants can be used in the preparations containing the active ingredient combinations according to the invention.

The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D,L-camosine, D-camosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, ß-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and Glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathionine sulfoximine) in very low tolerated doses (e.g. pmol to μαλλα/kg), furthermore (metal) chelators (e.g. a-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), a-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. &ggr;-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, alaninediacetic acid, flavonoids, polyphenols, catechins, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg-ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), as well as coniferyl benzoate of benzoin resin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, ferulic acid and its derivatives, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiatric acid, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ), selenium and its derivatives (e.g. selenomethionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (e.g. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active ingredients which are suitable according to the invention.

The amount of antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations

is preferably 0.001 to 10 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.025 - 2.0 wt.%, in particular 0.05 - 1.0 wt.%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

The prophylaxis or the cosmetic or dermatological treatment with the active ingredient used according to the invention or with the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of the active ingredient used according to the invention is carried out in the usual way, namely in such a way that the active ingredient used according to the invention or the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of the active ingredient used according to the invention are applied to the affected areas of skin.

The active ingredient used according to the invention can advantageously be incorporated into conventional cosmetic and dermatological preparations, which can be in various forms. For example, they can be a solution, an emulsion of the water-in-oil (W/O) or oil-in-water (O/W) type, or a multiple emulsion, for example of the water-in-oil-in-water (W/O/W) or oil-in-water-in-oil (O/W/O) type, a hydrodispersion or lipodispersion, a gel, a solid stick or even an aerosol.

Emulsions according to the invention in the sense of the present invention, e.g. in the form of a cream, a lotion, a cosmetic milk, a mousse cream from an aerosol container are advantageous and contain e.g. fats, oils, waxes and/or other fatty substances, as well as water and one or more emulsifiers, as are usually used for this type of formulation.

It is also possible and advantageous in the sense of the present invention to incorporate the active ingredient used according to the invention into aqueous systems or surfactant preparations for cleaning the skin and hair.

It is of course known to the person skilled in the art that sophisticated cosmetic compositions are usually not conceivable without the usual auxiliaries and additives. The cosmetic preparations according to the invention can therefore contain cosmetic auxiliaries as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. preservatives, bactericides, deodorizing substances, antiperspirants, insect repellents, other vitamins, agents for preventing foaming, dyes, pigments with coloring

Effect, thickeners, plasticizers, moisturizing and/or humectants, fats, oils, waxes or other common ingredients of a cosmetic formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
5

Mutatis mutandis, corresponding requirements apply to the formulation of medicinal preparations.

Medical topical compositions within the meaning of the present invention generally contain one or more drugs in an effective concentration. For the sake of simplicity, in order to clearly distinguish between cosmetic and medical applications and corresponding products, reference is made to the legal provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (eg Cosmetics Ordinance, Food and Drug Act).
15

Preparations according to the invention can advantageously also contain substances that absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of filter substances being, for example, 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular 1.0% to 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, in order to provide cosmetic preparations that protect the hair or skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also serve as sunscreens for the hair.

If the preparations according to the invention contain UVB filter substances, these can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Oil-soluble UVB filters that are advantageous according to the invention are, for example:

3-Benzylidenecamphor derivatives, preferably 3-(4-methylbenzylidene)camphor, 3-benzylidenecamphor;

4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4-(dimethylamino)benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-(dimethylamino)benzoic acid amyl ester; - esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;

Esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, salicylic acid (4-isopropylbenzyl) ester, salicylic acid homomenthyl ester,

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Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di(2-ethylhexyl) ester,
- 2,4,6-Trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazine.

Advantageous water-soluble UVB filters include:

Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt, as well as the sulfonic acid itself;

Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;

Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as 4-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl)benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl)sulfonic acid and their salts as well as 1,4-di(2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl)benzene and its salts (the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, for example the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), also known as benzene-1,4-di(2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid

The list of UVB filters mentioned that can be used in combination with the active ingredient combinations according to the invention is of course not intended to be limiting.

It may also be advantageous to use UVA filters, which are usually contained in cosmetic preparations. These substances are preferably derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular 1-(4'-tert-butylphenyl)-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)-propane-1,3-dione and 1-phenyl-3-(4'-isopropylphenyl)propane-1,3-dione.
Other beneficial UVA filters come from the group of triazines, such as 2,4-bis-{[4-(2-ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine
(trade name Tinosorb® S) and the group of triazoles, such as 2,2'-methylene-bis-[6-2H-benzotriazol-2yl]-4-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)phenol) (trade name Tinosorb® M). A beneficial water-soluble UVA filter is 2'-bis-(1,4-phenylene)-1H-benzimidazole-4,6-disulfonic acid sodium salt (trade name Neo Heliopan AP®).
The amounts used for the UVB combination can be used.

·: : : lim,

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention advantageously also contain inorganic pigments based on metal oxides and/or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular the oxides of titanium (TiO ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe ₂ O ₃ ), zirconium (ZrO ₂ ), silicon (SiO ₂ ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (Al ₂ O ₃ ), cerium (e.g. Ce ₂ O ₃ ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides. Pigments based on TiO ₂ are particularly preferred.

It is particularly advantageous in the sense of the present invention, although not essential, if the inorganic pigments are in hydrophobic form, i.e. that their surface is treated to be water-repellent. This surface treatment can consist of providing the pigments with a thin hydrophobic layer using methods known per se.

One such method consists, for example, in the hydrophobic surface layer being treated after a reaction according to

&eegr; TiO ₂ + m (RO) ₃ Si-R'-> ? TiO ₂ (surface)

is produced, η and m are stoichiometric parameters to be used as desired, R and R ¹ are the desired organic radicals. For example, hydrophobized pigments prepared analogously to DE-OS 33 14 742 are advantageous.

Advantageous TiO ₂ pigments are available, for example, under the trade names MT 100 T from TAYCA, M 160 from Kemira and T 805 from Degussa.

Preparations according to the invention can also contain anionic, non-ionic and/or amphoteric surfactants, especially if crystalline or microcrystalline solids, for example inorganic micropigments, are to be incorporated into the preparations according to the invention. Surfactants are amphiphilic substances that can dissolve organic, non-polar substances in water.

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The hydrophilic parts of a surfactant molecule are usually polar functional groups, for example -COO", -OSO ₃ ² ", -SO ₃ ', while the hydrophobic parts are usually non-polar hydrocarbon residues. Surfactants are generally classified according to the type and charge of the hydrophilic part of the molecule. Four groups can be distinguished here:

&bull; anionic surfactants,

&bull; cationic surfactants,

&bull; amphoteric surfactants and
· non-ionic surfactants.

Anionic surfactants usually have carboxylate, sulfate or sulfonate groups as functional groups. In aqueous solution, they form negatively charged organic ions in acidic or neutral environments. Cationic surfactants are almost exclusively characterized by the presence of a quaternary ammonium group. In aqueous solution, they form positively charged organic ions in acidic or neutral environments. Amphoteric surfactants contain both anionic and cationic groups and therefore behave like anionic or cationic surfactants in aqueous solution, depending on the pH value. In a strongly acidic environment, they have a positive charge and in an alkaline environment, a negative charge. In the neutral pH range, however, they are zwitterionic, as the following example should illustrate:

RNH ₂ ⁺ CH ₂ CH ₂ COOH X' (at pH=2) X" = any anion, e.g. Cl"

RNH ₂ ⁺ CH ₂ CH ₂ COO' (at pH=7)

RNHCH ₂ CH ₂ COO' B ⁺ (at pH=12) B ⁺ = any cation, e.g. Na ⁺

Polyether chains are typical for non-ionic surfactants. Non-ionic surfactants do not form ions in an aqueous medium.

A. Anionic surfactants

Advantageous anionic surfactants are
Acylamino acids (and their salts), such as

1. Acylglutamates, for example sodium acylglutamate, di-TEA-palmitoylaspartate and sodium caprylic/ capric glutamate,

2. Acyl peptides, such as palmitoyl-hydrolysed milk protein, sodium cocoyl-hydrolysed soy protein and sodium/potassium cocoyl-hydrolysed collagen,

3. Sarcosinates, for example myristoyl sarcosine, TEA-lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate,

4. Taurates, such as sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate,

5. AcylLactylate, lauroyl lactylate, caproyl lactylate

6. Alaninates
Carboxylic acids and derivatives, such as

1. Carboxylic acids, for example lauric acid, aluminium stearate, magnesium alkanolate and zinc undecylenate,

2. Ester carboxylic acids, for example calcium stearoyl lactylate, laureth-6 citrate and sodium PEG-4 lauramide carboxylate,

3. Ether carboxylic acids, for example sodium laureth-13 carboxylate and sodium PEG-6 cocamide carboxylate,

Phosphoric acid esters and salts, such as DEA-oleth-10 phosphate and dilaureth-4 phosphate,

Sulfonic acids and salts, such as
1. Acyl isethionates, e.g. sodium/ammonium cocoyl isethionate,

2. Alkylarylsulfonates,

3. Alkyl sulfonates, for example sodium cocosmonoglyceride sulfate, sodium C ₁₂ . ₁₄ olefin sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate,

4. Sulfosuccinates, for example dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and disodium undecylenamido MEA sulfosuccinate

as well as
Sulfuric acid esters, such as

1. Alkyl ether sulfate, for example sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, TIPA laureth sulfate, sodium myreth sulfate and sodium C ₁₂ -i3 pareth sulfate,

2. Alkyl sulfates, for example sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate.

B. Cationic surfactants

Advantageous cationic surfactants are

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1. Alkylamines,

2. Alkylimidazoles,

3. Ethoxylated amines and

4. Quaternary surfactants.

5. Esterquats

Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N atom that is covalently bonded to 4 alkyl or aryl groups. This leads to a positive charge, regardless of the pH value. Alkyl betaine, alkylamidopropyl betaine and alkyl-amidopropylhydroxysulfaine are advantageous. The cationic surfactants used according to the invention can also preferably be selected from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds, in particular benzyltrialkylammonium chlorides or bromides, such as benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, and also alkyltrialkylammonium salts, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, alkyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chlorides or bromides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or bromides, alkylamideethyltrimethylammonium ether sulfates, alkylpyridinium salts, for example lauryl or cetylpyrimidinium chloride, imidazoline derivatives and compounds with cationic character such as amine oxides, for example alkyldimethylamine oxides or alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxides. Cetyltrimethylammonium salts are particularly advantageous to use.

C. Amphoteric surfactants

Advantageous amphoteric surfactants are

1. Acyl/dialkylethylenediamine, for example sodium acylamphoacetate, disodium acylamphodipropionate, disodium alkylamphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, disodium acylamphodiacetate and sodium acylamphopropionate,

2. N-alkylamino acids, for example aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate.

D. Non-ionic surfactants

Non-ionic surfactants that are advantageous to use are
1. Alcohols,

2. Alkanolamides, such as Cocamide MEA/ DEA/ MIPA ₁

3. Amine oxides, such as cocoamidopropylamine oxide,

4. Esters obtained by esterification of carboxylic acids with ethylene oxide, glycerin, sorbitan or other alcohols,

5. Ethers, for example ethoxylated/propoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated/propoxylated esters, ethoxylated/propoxylated glycerol esters, ethoxylated/propoxylated cholesterols, ethoxylated/propoxylated triglyceride esters, ethoxylated propoxylated lanolin, ethoxylated/propoxylated polysiloxanes, propoxylated POE ethers and alkyl polyglycosides such as lauryl glucoside, decyl glycoside and cocoglycoside.

6. Sucrose esters, ethers

7 polyglycerol esters, diglycerol esters, monoglycerol esters
8. Methyl glucose esters, esters of hydroxy acids

It is also advantageous to use a combination of anionic and/or amphoteric surfactants with one or more non-ionic surfactants.

The surface-active substance can be present in the preparations according to the invention in a concentration between 1 and 30 wt.%, based on the total weight of the preparations.

The lipid phase of the cosmetic or dermatological emulsions according to the invention can advantageously be selected from the following group of substances:

Mineral oils, mineral waxes
- oils such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, as well as natural oils such as

Castor oil;

Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fatty substances, preferably esters of fatty acids with low-carbon alcohols, e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerin, or esters of fatty alcohols with low-carbon alkanoic acids or with fatty acids;

alkyl benzoates;

Silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes and mixtures thereof.

The oil phase of the emulsions of the present invention is advantageously selected from the group of esters of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms and saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated

and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate and synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, e.g. jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, silicone oils, dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and fatty acid triglycerides, namely triglycerol esters of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, e.g. olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously in the sense of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.

The oil phase is advantageously selected from the group 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C ₁₂ .is-alkyl benzoate, caprylic-capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether, dicaprylyl carbonate.

Particularly advantageous are mixtures of C ₁₂ .i ₅ -alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C ₁₂ .is-alkyl benzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of C _{12 .15} -alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate.

Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene are advantageously used in the context of the present invention.

&bull; · «&tgr;

Advantageously, the oil phase can also contain cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or oils. Such silicones or silicone oils can be present as monomers, which are generally characterized by structural elements as follows:

R ₂ -O-Si&mdash;O&mdash;R _3
R4

Linear silicones with several siloxyl units that can be used advantageously according to the invention are generally characterized by structural elements as follows:

I I

-HO&mdash;Si-O-Si- II

R3 R4

where the silicon atoms can be substituted by identical or different alkyl radicals and/or aryl radicals, which are generally represented here by the radicals Ri-R ₄ (i.e. the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to 4), m can assume values of 2 - 200,000.

Cyclic silicones which can be used advantageously according to the invention are generally characterized by structural elements as follows

-73 -&ogr;- _R2 &eegr; &igr;
_&Ogr;1 &igr;
&Ogr;&igr; U Oil Oil _{R3 R4}

where the silicon atoms can be substituted with identical or different alkyl radicals and/or aryl radicals, which are generally represented here by the radicals R, - R ₄ (i.e. the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to 4), &eegr; can assume values from 3/2 to 20. Fractional values for &eegr;

take into account that odd numbers of siloxyl groups may be present in the cycle.

Cyclomethicone (e.g. decamethylcyclopentasiloxane) is advantageously used as the silicone oil to be used according to the invention. However, other silicone oils can also be used advantageously in the sense of the present invention, for example undecamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly(methylphenylsiloxane), cetyldimethicone, behenoxydimethicone.

Mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, as well as those of cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, are also advantageous.

However, it is also advantageous to choose silicone oils with a similar constitution to the compounds mentioned above, whose organic side chains are derivatized, for example polyethoxylated and/or polypropoxylated. These include, for example, polysiloxane polyalkyl polyether copolymers such as cetyl dimethicone copolyol, (cetyl dimethicone copolyol (and) polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (and) hexyl laurate)

Mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, of cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate are also particularly advantageous.

The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention optionally advantageously contains alcohols, diols or polyols with a low carbon number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerin, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products, furthermore alcohols with a low carbon number, e.g. ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerin and in particular one or more thickeners, which can advantageously be selected from the group silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates.

Preparations according to the invention in the form of emulsions particularly advantageously contain one or more hydrocolloids. These hydrocolloids can advantageously be selected from the group of gums, polysaccharides, cellulose derivatives, layered silicates, polyacrylates and/or other polymers.

Preparations according to the invention in the form of hydrogels contain one or more hydrocolloids. These hydrocolloids can advantageously be selected from the aforementioned group.

Gums include plant or tree saps that harden in the air and form resins or extracts from aquatic plants. From this group, for example, gum arabic, carob flour, tragacanth, karaya, guar gum, pectin, gellan gum, carrageenan, agar, algin, chondrus, xanthan gum can be advantageously selected within the meaning of the present invention.
10

Another advantage is the use of derivatized gums such as hydroxypropyl guar (Jaguar® HP 8).

Polysaccharides and derivatives include hyaluronic acid, chitin and chitosan, chondroitin sulfates, starch and starch derivatives.

Cellulose derivatives include methylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose and hydroxypropylmethylcellulose.

The layered silicates include naturally occurring and synthetic clays such as montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, laponite, magnesium aluminum silicates such as Veegum®. These can be used as such or in modified form such as stearylalkonium hectorite.

Furthermore, silica gels can also be used advantageously.

The polyacrylates include, for example, Carbopol types from Goodrich (Carbopol 980, 981, 1382, 5984, 2984, ETD 2001, ETD 2020, ETD 2050, Ultrez 10 or Pemulen TR1 & TR2).
30

The polymers include, for example, polyacrylamides (Seppigel 305), polyvinyl alcohols, PVP, PVP / VA copolymers, polyglycols.

Preparations according to the invention in the form of emulsions contain one or more emulsifiers. These emulsifiers can advantageously be selected from the group of non-ionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric emulsifiers.

Among the non-ionic emulsifiers are

a) Partial fatty acid esters and fatty acid esters of polyhydric alcohols and their ethoxylated derivatives (e.g. glyceryl monostearates, sorbitan stearates, glyceryl stearyl citrates, sucrose stearates)

b) ethoxylated fatty alcohols and fatty acids

c) ethoxylated fatty amines, fatty acid amides, fatty acid alkanolamides

d) alkylphenol polyglycol ethers (e.g. Triton X)

e) Sugar derivatives (esters and/or ethers of glucose, sucrose and other sugars; e.g. alkyl polyglycosides such as polyglyceryl-S-methylglucose distearate, methyl glucose sesquistearate)

Among the anionic emulsifiers are

a) Soaps (e.g. sodium stearate)

b) Fatty alcohol sulfates

c) Mono-, di- and trialkylphosphoric acid esters and their ethoxylates

Among the cationic emulsifiers are

a) quaternary ammonium compounds with a long-chain aliphatic residue, e.g. distearyldimonium chloride

Among the amphoteric emulsifiers are

a) Alkylamininoalkanecarboxylic acids

b) Betaines, sulfobetaines

c) Imidazoline derivatives

There are also naturally occurring emulsifiers, which include beeswax, wool wax, lecithin and sterols.

22

O/W emulsifiers can, for example, be advantageously selected from the group of polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated products, e.g.:

the fatty alcohol ethoxylates - the ethoxylated wool wax alcohols, the polyethylene glycol ethers of the general formula RO-(-CH2-CH2-O-) _n -R', the fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO-(-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -H, the etherified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO-(-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-)nR\ the esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO-(-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-)n -C(O)-R ¹ , the polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid esters of the ethoxylated sorbitan esters - the cholesterol ethoxylates of the ethoxylated triglycerides of the alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula RO-(-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -CH ₂ -COOH nd &eegr; represent a number from 5 to 30, the polyoxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid esters, - the alkyl ether sulfates of the general formula RO-(-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -SO ₃ -H the fatty alcohol propoxylates of the general formula RO-(-CH ₂ -CH(CH ₃ )-O-) _n -H, the polypropylene glycol ethers of the general formula RC-(-CH ₂ -CH(CH ₃ )-O-) _n -R\ - the propoxylated wool wax alcohols, the etherified fatty acid propoxylates R-COO-(-CH ₂ -CH(CH ₃ )-O-) _n -R', the esterified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO-(-CH ₂ -CH(CH ₃ )-O-) _n -C(O)-R', - the fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO-(-CH ₂ -CH(CH ₃ )-O-) _n -H, the polypropylene glycol glycerol fatty acid ester of the propoxylated sorbitan esters of the cholesterol propoxylates

· ■

·

·

of propoxylated triglycerides
of the alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula
RO-(-CH ₂ -CH(CH ₃ )O-)n-CH ₂ -COOH

the alkyl ether sulfates or the acids underlying these sulfai &eegr; of the general formula RO-(-CH ₂ -CH(CH ₃ )-O-) _n -SC -H

the fatty alcohol ethoxylates/propoxylates of the general formula
ROX _n -Y _m -H,

the polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula
ROX _n -Y _m -R\

- the etherified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula
R-COO-X _n -Yn ₁ -R ¹ ,

of fatty acid ethoxylates/propoxylates of the general formula
R-COO-X _n -Y _m -H,.

According to the invention, the polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropylene O/W emulsifiers used are particularly advantageously selected from the group of substances with HLB values of 11 - 18, very particularly advantageously with HLB values of 14.5 - 15.5, provided that the O/W emulsifiers have saturated radicals R and R'. If the O/W emulsifiers have unsaturated radicals R and/or R', or if isoalkyl derivatives are present, the preferred HLB value of such emulsifiers can also be lower or higher.

It is advantageous to choose the fatty alcohol ethoxylates from the group of ethoxylated stearyl alcohols, cetyl alcohols, cetylstearyl alcohols (cetea /! alcohols). Particularly preferred are:

Polyethylene glycol(13)stearyl ether (Steareth-13), Por> !ethylene glycol(14)stearyl ether (Steareth-14), Polyethylene glycol(15)stearyl ether (Steareth-15), olyethylene glycol(16)stearyl ether (Steareth-16), Polyethylene glycol(17 )stearyl ether (Steareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) stearyl ether (Steareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) stearyl ether (S jareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) stearyl ether (Steareth-20),

Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-12, polyethylene glycol (13) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isostearyl ether ( (isosteareth-14), polyethylene glycol-

r«

(15)isostearylether (lsosteareth-15), PolyethylenglycoKiejisostearylether (lsosteareth-16), Polyethylenglycol(17)isostearylether (lsosteareth-17), PolyethylenglycolCiejisostearylether (lsosteareth-18), Polyethylenglycol(19)isostearylether (lsosteareth-19), Polyethylenglycol-(20 )isostearyl ether(isosteareth-20),

Polyethylene glycoKISJcetyl ether (Ceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetyl ether (Ceteth-14), polyethylene glycoKlöJ cetyl ether (Ceteth-15), polyethylene glycoKISJ cetyl ether (Ceteth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) cetyl ether (Ceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetyl ether (Ceteth -18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetyl ether (Ceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetyl ether (Ceteth-20),

Polyethylene glycoKISJ isocetyl ether (lsoceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isocetyl ether (lsoceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) isocetyl ether (lsoceteth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) isocetyl ether (lsoceteth-17) , polyethylene glycol (18) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-20),

Polyethylene glycol (12) oleyl ether (Oleth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) oleyl ether (Oleth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) oleyl ether (Oleth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) oleyl ether (Oleth-15),

Polyethylene glycol (12) lauryl ether (laureth-12), polyethylene glycol (12) isolauryl ether (isolaureth-12).

Polyethylene glycoKISJcetyl stearyl ether (Ceteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetyl stearyl ether (Ceteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (16) cetyl stearyl ether (Ceteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (17) cetyl stearyl ether (Ceteareth-1 7), polyethylene glycol ( 18)cetyl stearyl ether (Ceteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetyl stearyl ether (Ceteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetyl stearyl ether (Ceteareth-20),

It is also advantageous to choose fatty acid ethoxylates from the following group:

Polyethylene glycol (20) stearate, polyethylene glycol (21 ) stearate, polyethylene glycol (22) stearate, polyethylene glycol (23) stearate, polyethylene glycol (24) stearate, polyethylene glycol (25) stearate,

Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearate, polyethylene glycol OSJ isostearate, polyethylene glycol (14) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (15) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (17) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (17) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (15) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) isostearate, polyethyl englycol(21)isostearate, polyethylene glycol(22)isostearate , polyethylene glycol (23) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (24) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (25) isostearate,

Polyethylene glycol (12) oleate, polyethylene glycol (13) oleate, polyethylene glycol (14) oleate, polyethylene glycol (15) oleate, polyethylene glycol (16) oleate, polyethylene glycol (17) oleate, polyethylene glycol (18) oleate, polyethylene glycol (19) oleate, polyethylene glycol (20)oleate

Sodium laureth-11-carboxylate can advantageously be used as an ethoxylated alkyl ether carboxylic acid or its salt.

Sodium Laureth 1-4 sulfate can be used advantageously as an alkyl ether sulfate.

Polyethylene glycol (30) cholesteryl ether can be used advantageously as an ethoxylated cholesterol derivative. Polyethylene glycol (25) soya sterol has also proven to be effective.

Polyethylene glycol(60) Evening Primrose Glycerides can be used advantageously as ethoxylated triglycerides (Evening Primrose)

Furthermore, it is advantageous to select the polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid esters from the group polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (21) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (22) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (23) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (6) glyceryl caprate/caprate, polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl oleate, polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) glyceryl oleate/cocoate.

It is also advantageous to choose the sorbitan esters from the group polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monolaurate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monoisostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monopalmitate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monooleate.

Advantageous W/O emulsifiers can be used: fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, monoglycerol esters of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched

·

·

&bull; *

and/or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, diglycerol esters of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, monoglycerol ethers of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, diglycerol ethers of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, propylene glycol esters of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms and sorbitan esters of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms.

Particularly advantageous W/O emulsifiers are glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl monooleate, diglyceryl monostearate, diglyceryl monoisostearate, propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene glycol monocaprylate, propylene glycol monolaurate, sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan monolaurate, sorbitan monocaprylate, sorbitan monoisooleate, sucrose distearate, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, isobehenyl alcohol, selachyl alcohol, chimyl alcohol, polyethylene glycol(2)stearyl ether (steareth-2), glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl monocaprinate, glyceryl monocaprylate.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without limiting it. Unless otherwise stated, all amounts, proportions and percentages are based on the weight and the total amount or the total weight of the preparations.

Examples 1-10: O/W creams

Example number 1 2 3 4 5 Glyceryl stearate citrate 2 2 Glyceryl stearate,
self-emulsifying 5 3 2 PEG-40 stearate 1 1 Myristyl myristate 1 1

Behenyl alcohol 2 1 3 4 2 Stearyl alcohol Cetearyl alcohol 1 Cetyl alcohol 2 2 2 Hydrogenated coconut fat glycerides
(Hydrogenated Coco Glycerides-
rides) 2 3 Shea butter 3 1 1 C12-15alkyl benzoate 1 2 2 Butylene Glycol Dicapry-
lat/Dicaprate 1 1 1 Caprylic acid/capric acid
Triglyceride 3 Ethylhexylcoconut fatty acid
reester 1 Octyldodecanol 1 2 mineral oil 2 vaseline

28

Example number 1 2 3 4 5 Octamethyltetrasiloxane
(Cyclomethicone) 4 1 4 3 5 Dimethylpolysiloxane
(Dimethicone) 1 1 Dicaprylyl ether 1 4 2 Dicarprylyl carbonate 3 _TiO2 1 0.5 1 Ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate 3 3 5 2 Ethylhexyltriazone 2 Ethylhexylcyanodiphenyl-
acrylate (octocrylene) 5 Butylmethoxydibenzoyl-
methane 1 Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol-
methoxyphenyltriazine 1 0.5 Ethylhexyl salicylate 1 Ubiquinone(QIO) 0.05 0.1 0.02 0.01 0.03 Biotin 0.2 0.05 0.04 0.01 0.04 Retinol 0.05 0.03 Retinyl palmitate 0.2 0.1 0.3 Acetylcarnitine 0.3 Tocopheryl acetate 1 Citric acid, sodium salt 0.1 Sodium ascorbyl palmitate 0.1 0.1 γ-Cyclodextrin 2.0 0.5 1.0 0.8

Example number 1 2 3 4 5 Trisodium EDTA 0.2 0.1 0.1 0.2 0.1 Iminodisuccinate, sodium salt 0.3 0.3 0.2 Phenoxyethanol 0.6 0.2 0.2 0.3 p-Hydroxybenzoic acid-
kylester (paraben) 0.3 0.3 Hexamidine isethionate 0.25 0.04 0.1 0.1 Diazolidinylurea 0.2 1,3-Dimethylol-5,5-dimethyl-
hydantoin
(DMDM Hydantoin) 0.2 iodopropynylbutylcarbamate 0.1 Ethanol denatured 0.1 2 Xanthan gum 0.05 0.1 0.1 Polyacrylic acid (carbomer) Polyacrylamide 10 0.2 6 8th Glycerine 2 6 7.5 Butylene glycol 0.05 1 water and/or oil soluble
Dyes 0.1 0.2 0.05 Fillers/additives (distarch
phosphate, SiO ₂ , BHT,
Talc, aluminium stearate) q.s. 1 q.s. 0.5 q.s. Perfume Ad
100 q.s. Ad
100 q.s. Ad
100 Water Ad
100 Ad
100

Example number 6 7 8th 9 10 Glyceryl stearate,
self-emulsifying 2.5 PEG-40 stearate 1 Polyglyceryl-3-methylgluco-
sedistearate 3 Sorbitan stearate 1 Polyethylene glycol(21 )stearyl
ether(Steareth-21) 2 Polyethylene glycol(2)stearyl-
ether (Steareth-2) 1 Cetearyl glucoside CNJ Stearic acid 2.5 Myristyl myristate 1 Behenyl alcohol 1 2 Stearyl alcohol 5 Cetearyl alcohol 3 2 1 Cetyl alcohol 1 Hydrogenated coconut fat glycerides
(Hydrogenated Coco Glycerides-
rides) 1 1 Shea butter CRF C12-15 alkyl benzoate 4 2 5 2 Butylene Glycol Dicapry-
lat/Dicaprate 2 Caprylic acid/capric acid
Triglyceride 1 1 3 Hydrogenated polydecene 1 Ethylhexylcoconut fatty acid
reester 2 Octyldodecanol 1 1 mineral oil 1

31

Example number 6 7 8th 9 10 vaseline 1 3 2 3 2 Octamethyltetrasiloxane
(Cyclomethicone) 4 4 1 Dimethylpolysiloxane
(Dimethicone) 2 Dicaprylyl ether 2 5 4 Dicarprylyl carbonate Polydecene 1 1 _TiO2 1 3 Ethylhexyimethoxycinnamate 2 3 Ethylhexylcyanodiphenyl-
acrylate (octocrylene) 5 2 4 0.3 Ethylhexyltriazone 0.10 1 Phenylbenzimidazole-
sulfonic acid 0.5 1 0.5 Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol-
methoxyphenyltriazine 0.1 0.02 0.2 0.1 Ubiquinone (Q10) 0.03 0.02 0.5 Biotin 0.04 Retinol 0.5 0.3 Retinyl palmitate 0.1 0.3 0.5 Tocopheryl acetate Carnitine 1 0.5 0.8 Acetylcamitine 0.1 Ascorbic acid 0.3 ß-cyclodextrin 1.0 0.3 1 γ-Cyclodextrin

&bull; · &diams;

Example number 6 7 8th 9 10 Lactoferrin 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.1 0.05 Trisodium EDTA 0.5 0.4 Iminodisuccinate 0.1 0.5 0.1 Phenoxyethanol 0.4 0.3 p-Hydroxybenzoic acid-
kylester (paraben) 0.2 0.2 0.1 0.6 Hexamidine isethionate 0.1 Diazolidinylurea 8th 0.25 iodopropynylbutylcarbamate Ethanol denatured 0.1 0.4 3 2-Ethylhexylglycerol ether
(Octoxyglycerin) 0.2 Xanthan gum 0.2 0.1 Polyacrylic acid (carbomer) 10 5 0.1 Polyacrylamide 6 4 Glycerine 2 7 Butylene glycol 0.03 0.1 water and/or oil soluble
Dyes q.s. q.s. 0.05 3 0.1 Additives (distarch phosphate,
SiO ₂ , Talc, BHT Aluminium
transstearate) Ad
100 Ad
100 q.s. q.s. 1 Perfume Ad
100 Ad
100 q.s. Water Ad
100

33

Example 11: W/O cream

Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 5.0 Polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate 2.5 Cetearyl alcohol 2 Cetyl alcohol 2 C12-15alkyl benzoate 8th Caprylic acid/capric acid triglyceride 6 Octyldodecanol 5 Octamethyltetrasiloxane (cyclomethicone) 2 Lactic acid 5 Citric acid, sodium salt 0.5 Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethan 0.5 Ethylhexyltriazone 1 Ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate 5 Ubiquinone (Q10) 0.05 Biotin 0.04 Retinyl palmitate 0.1 Phenoxyethanol 0.1 p-Hydroxybenzoic acid alkyl esters (para-
ben) 0.1 Glycerine 7.5 ß-cyclodextrin 0.2 Fillers (distarch phosphate, SiO ₂ , Tal
kum, aluminum stearate) 0.2 Perfume q.s. Water Ad 100

34

Example 12: Hydrodispersion/Gel Cream

Cetyl alcohol 2 Shea butter 1 Caprylic acid/capric acid triglyceride 2 Octyldodecanol 1 Octamethyltetrasiloxane (cyclomethicone) 5 Dimethylpolysiloxane (dimethicone) 1 Polydecene 2 Ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate 3 Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol-methoxyphenyltriazine 0.5 Ubiquinone (Q10) 0.02 Biotin 0.03 Retinyl palmitate 0.05 Iminodisuccinate 0.2 Phenoxyethanol 0.3 p-Hydroxybenzoic acid alkyl esters (para-
ben) 0.4 Cross-linked alkyl acrylate (alkyl acrylates
Cosspolymer) 0.2 Glycerine 5 Perfume q.s. Water Ad100

Sample formulations Foundations

35

ingredients 1 2 3 4 PEG-30 stearate 1.5 Glyceryl stearate 0.5 2 Ceteareth-20 1 Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose
stearate 3.5 Sorbic acid stearate 1.5 Stearic acid 2 1.8 Glyceryl stearate citrate 3.5 Cetyl alcohol 0.5 0.75 1.0 Lecithin 0.5 Veegum K = Mg-Al-Silicate 0.8 1 Xanthan Gum 0.2 0.3 Carbomer 0.2 Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.2 0.1 Caprylic acid / capric acid
Triglyceride 2 3 2 Dicaprylyl ether 2 3 3 Octyldodecanol 3 Dimethicon 3 3 3 Cyclomethicon 4 3 2 C12-C15 Alkyl Benzoates 2 Cetearyl octanoate 2 Squalane 1 6 Isopropyl palmitate 1 2 PPG -15 Stearyl ether 2 3 Hydrogenated coconut glycerides 2 Stearyl dimethicone 9 Acetylated lanolin oil 2 0.2

36

Ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate 2 2 2 2 _TiO2 2 0.02 2 Ethylhexyltriazone 2 0.1 1 Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol-
methoxyphenyltriazine 1 0.02 Ubiquinone(QIO) 0.1 0.05 0.75 0.025 Retinyl palmitate 0.02 0.05 0.1 Biotin 0.01 0.025 5 0.05 γ-Cyclodextrin 0.5 0.05 silicone 0.8 1 Nylon-12 Lauroyl lysine 0.5 2.6 kaolin 0.5 4.5 2 Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate 1 1.5 Iron oxides 1.2 2.4 3 Titanium dioxide 3.8 5.6 6.5 Interference pigments 0.2 0.5 Pigment Low Lustre 0.2 1 0.2 ZnO 1 5 Polymethylsilsesquioxane
(Tospearl 2000B) 2 EDTA 0.1 0.6 1 Glycerine 2 5 q.s. 10 Phenoxyethanol and paraben
(Phenonip) 1 0.5 q.s. 1 Imidazonidinyl urea 0.3 0.3 to 100 0.25 Neutralizing agent q.s. q.s. q.s. Perfume, antioxidants q.s. q.s. q.s. Water to 100 to 100 to 100

Claims (9)

1. Cosmetic and/or dermatological preparations containing a) at least one retinoid, (b) at least one ubiquinone and/or a derivative thereof and c) at least one nitrogen-containing active substance from the group biotin, carnitine and/or their derivatives along with other cosmetic excipients, active ingredients and additives. 2. Cosmetic and/or dermatological preparations according to claim 1 containing a) Retinoid in a concentration of 0.001 to 1.0% by weight b) Ubiquinone in a concentration of 0.001 to 1.0% by weight c) nitrogen-containing active substance from the group biotin, carnitine and/or derivatives thereof in a concentration of 0.01 to 5.0% by weight each based on the total weight of the preparation. 3. Cosmetic and/or dermatological preparations according to one of claims 1 or 2, wherein retinol is the preferred retinoid. 4. Cosmetic and/or dermatological preparations according to one of claims 1 to 3, wherein coenzyme Q10 is the preferred ubiquinone derivative. 5. Cosmetic and/or dermatological preparations according to one of claims 1 to 4, wherein acetylcarnitine is the preferred carnitine derivative. 6. Cosmetic and/or dermatological preparations according to one of claims 1 to 5, which contain hydrophilic vitamins. 7. Cosmetic and/or dermatological preparations according to one of claims 1 to 6 containing at least one cyclodextrin species and/or its derivatives. 8. Cosmetic and/or dermatological preparations according to one of claims 1 to 7 containing at least one cyclodextrin species and/or its derivatives in a concentration of 0.001 to 5% by weight based on the total weight of the preparation. 9. Cosmetic and/or dermatological preparations according to one of claims 1 to 7, wherein γ-cyclodextrin is the preferred cyclodextrin species.