DE2208556A1 - Yarn bundled in a sheaf shape and process for making the same - Google Patents

Description

EGG. DU PONT DE NEMOUES AND COMPANY 10th and Market Streets, Wilmington, Delaware 19 898, V.St.A.

Garbenföririg bundled garni and process for the production of the same

The invention relates to yarns bundled in a sheaf shape, fabrics made from them and processes for the production of the yarns.

Yarns bundled in a sheaf shape and method of manufacture these are known, for example, from U.S. Patent 3,079,746. Yarn bundled in a sheaf shape has been described as a yarn in which a core of parallel, untwisted, discontinuous pasers are held together by surface wraps of pasers that form a small part of the Make the total amount of pasers in the yarn. The surface wrapping around the core of untwisted strands resembles a very irregular spiral; the spiral angle fluctuates considerably between about 10 and 80 ° (in contrast to spun yarns, in which the spiral angle is generally is in the range of 15 to 25 °).

209838/1059

A new type of yarn bundled in a sheaf shape has now been produced that can be processed into crepe fabrics, what surprising advantages on v / iron. So far one has wide crepe woven fabrics made of conventional (i.e. not sheaf-shaped bundled) yarns with a twist of at least 24 twists per cm. Experienced these conventional yarns a twisting compression, which leads to the formation of a creping effect in the fabric. Crepe fabric made in this way but usually have a hard grip because of the high degree of twist in their yarns. It has been suggested, Kreppgev / ebe from single filament yarns made from components of are composed of high and low shrinkage capacity.

Since crepe fabrics are uneven by their nature, there is a task in their creation is the degree of irregularity to be kept as constant as possible, so that not only individual parts of the deodorant fabric have a low creping effect, while other parts of the same fabric have a high-grade crepe effect. It therefore consists in the Textile industry a need for new and characteristic crochet fabrics.

According to one feature of the invention, a garbon-shaped bundled yarn is produced from a mixture of discontinuous organic textile fans of different shrinkage capacities, a smaller part of the fibers consisting of "strongly shrinking" fibers, while the remainder consists of "shrinking" fibers . "Strongly shrinking" fibers are referred to as those which have a higher writing capacity than the "weakly shrinking" ¹¹ fibers. This does not mean that these fibers have a strong shrinkage in the absolute sense ^; ϋΜοη, odor that etc. the "weakly shrinking" fibers only shrink slightly, if they shrink at all

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2 0 9 8 3 8/1059 ^ ORIGINAL

be equal to the sum of 5 ° + the mean percentage visual shrinkage of the weakly shrinking fibers. According to a preferred embodiment of this method according to the invention, a sliver of discontinuous organic textile fibers is used! produced, which contains 1 to 40 percent by weight of strongly shrinking fibers and the remainder consists of weakly shrinking fibers. The strands in the sliver should preferably have different lengths, and the sliver should consist predominantly of strands with lengths of about 5 to 25 cm or more. The sliver is then drawn into a band-shaped bundle, which preferably has a titer of at least 30 denier and has practically no twist. The bundle is sucked off by the foremost drafting rollers with the help of a gas suction nozzle and processed into a yarn bundled in a sheaf shape using a false twist. A swirl nozzle is preferably used to generate the false twist. Furthermore, the strongly shrinking fibers preferably have an average shrinkage capacity which is at least equal to the sum of £ 10 and the average percentage shrinkage capacity of the weakly shrinking fibers. According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the method, the proportion of the severely weak fibers in the fiber end A is up to 16 °. The Schru; pfver ... ö ~ e: h of the fibers in the sliver is determined according to the 2 years dividing descried boiling test.

According to another! - 'crkFial, the invention is based on a new c-.rti ^ cG, g £ ..rcer.förrig gtbüüdelte-s yarn with a yarn pitch differ en :; of at least 5 λ> and a fluctuating curve: Eeit-Längrnchrun-ipfverj ₁ .öge23, determined on successive / ibschiiitten of 0.5 cm, closnenal deviation in the sections r.in ^ i- ^ ter.s is about 2.8 . The yarn consists of a core au :; äi.v!: oncontinuous orginal fibersi'j, which by unre ^: · - ' -ü-sziz nriral iur · de? j. Core twisted diocontinuous organic surface fibers are kept cusarsmen. The C'-rnr.iclrrT.T: pfdifferent (hereinafter also rait "Δ Sg" re: ic-hnst) is loaded with the help of a Schru-npftewtD

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true, which is carried out on a strand of yarn by relaxing the yarn in steam at 115 »6 ° C and measuring the yarn length before and after the relaxation under a load of 50 g and under a load of 4300 g, as described below. The fluctuating longitudinal shrinkage is measured by the normal deviation (hereinafter referred to as "$ *" ) of the yarn, which is determined according to the shrinkage fluctuation test, which is carried out on three 17> 5 cm long pieces of yarn, which are spaced 9 m apart taken along the length of the yarn. Each piece of yarn is divided into sections at intervals of 0.5 cm by marking, and the shrinkage of the individual 0.5 cm long sections of yarn is determined after relaxation of the yarn in steam at 115.6 C by photographic enlargements of the Sections of yarn before and after the entr.pamiu.ng of the yarn are examined as described below.

The yarn consists of discontinuous organic textile fibers. Pipes of ordinary textile titre are quite suitable for this purpose. The yarn consists of strongly and weakly shrinking fibers, which can have the same chemical composition or different chemical compositions. Suitable fibers are synthetic fibers, such as polyamide, polyester or polyacrylic fibers, and also natural fibers, such as Bruirav.'o].] E or wool. The lengths of the discontinuous fibers can vary considerably. According to a preferred embodiment, the yarn consists of acrylonitrile polymer ί: Γ.; <- · τ: ΐ !. "forrn oh another preferred execution is composed · ourn vvr> mixtures ai.u;.. Acrynnitrilpolyrnerj, -catfasern and Po] ya thylcntc-rephthaH atfasorn The yarn can also oriei- ji.ehi-ere Enolosfäoon avr an organic polymer. enlba] i ":;.

Preferably Iv '.rä-, 1; the Gaimnchruiiipiflif fc-renz (As _n ) min-

u ar ii

desteno 8 ^. In bof-ondcrs more preferred ¹ jeJ se the JiOr-

BATH ORIGINAL

· Α ,, _{; ί} ν ₍ ., ..., ■ 209838/1059

painting deviation at least about 4

According to a further feature "the invention relates to excellent fabrics made from the yarns described above. The fabrics have a crepe-like appearance of more characteristic Structure.

The development of a crepe effect in these fabrics is unusual because this crepe effect is not created by a high degree of twist, as is the case with conventional ones Crepe yarn is the pail, and does not require yarns that are capable of high shrinkage by twisting a component and a low shrinkage component will. Surprisingly, the fabrics made from these yarns can also be processed as flat fabrics, Transferring heat setting at high temperatures and hot calendering into flat fabrics, dip does not have a creping effect.

To further explain the invention, reference is made to the drawings.

Pig. 1 is a schematic representation of a sheaf shape bundled yarn according to the invention, which has three short sections in which the core is not tightly wrapped by surface wraps is bundled together.

Fig. 2 is a schematic representation of the yarn according to Pig. 1 after shrinking, with sections A, B, C and D the section of the marked by the same Beaugsseichen Fig. 1 correspond.

Like Pig. 1 shows, the discontinuous organic textile core fneera 10 from surface wraps are ο discontinuous organic Textilffii-iorn 11 held together, the dat. KeriiL'at'.orbiindeü closely in a unrogolniä-ssig tirrill form ig en Wrap around the winding. "Irregularmlio ^ lg" means that ciie üT »ii- & l-

209838/1059 ORIGINAL BATHROOM

shaped wrapping along the length of the yarn in separate sections can disintegrate with different spiral angles. The fibers in the core have different shrinkage capacities. Individual strands can start in the thread core (and form part of the thread core) and end in the wrap (as well as one Part of the wrap), and vice versa.

Pig. Figure 2 shows the yarn shown in Figure 1 after shrinking. When the core fibers 13 of higher shrinkability contract, the fibers 12 of lower shrinkability occur where the kerufiber fibers are not held together by surface wraps, in the form of bulky sections A, B and D out. The ratio varies from strong to weak in the individual sections of the yarn core shrinking fibers in a random manner, causing sections like section B to contract a little more as sections, such as section A. On the other hand, section C explains a bundle of core fibers 10 which are a Have suffered shrinkage, but no fibers come out of the bundle because the fibers are wrapped in the surface wraps 11 are held together.

To measure the parameters of the yarn and to determine whether it is the new yarn product according to the invention, the following test methods are used:

Yarn shrinkage difference test to determine AS- ^

In this test, a skein of yarn is made and, as described in detail below, allowed to relax without tension. Then the percentage Sobruiupfver-riö ^ cn is calculated on the basis of length measurements, which before and after a relaxation carried out without load under f .; elu./'j, oh he burden vorgonoiiiitioji v / earth. ! Iior;> on wi rd a ::, />: ite calculation doii percentual.cn SchruinpfvecniügenM μ mj ;; ■■?:.; i. . ■ II t, v / oboi the measurements, jm / eil. <; before and after tier without addition; :: ■ Li n _; ; through, v:

" ⁶ ~ 8AD 209838/105 9

led relaxation, run under heavy stress. The difference between the two percent shrinkage values is referred to as the difference in yarn shrinkage. This test has the task of determining the presence of severely shrinking fibers in the yarn and provides a measure of their Concentration.

To carry out this test, a strand is produced by winding a yarn sample onto a reel to form a loop of yarn with a circumference of about 136 cm. The number of turns required on the reel to form a loop is adjusted so that a loop-like strand of about 6030 den (susirae the denier of all yarn wraps around the reel) is obtained; if the yarn is 90.0 denier, 67 turns are required on the reel. The ends of the yarn forming the loop are knotted together, and the loop looker kit pieces of string are tied together at three points in order to hold them together. Servant rope is hung on a hook by hanging the inside of the loop over the hook. A weight with a hook is attached to the lower end of the loop, and the distance between the two Hh ¹ T) J is referred to as the "strand length" (initially under B- ^ v.-aeher load about 68 cir.) . The initial SLrangl ^: ir; fe is eaten under a load n, it 50 g, and this J "c3i? V.ert becomes air 'L, j _r " s ν er ά ei el met. Then the start becomes; " ¹ : i f>: c Π * ι rr.n ^ l.Mnce v-nter a load of 43 ^ ¹ G g £ e ~ e.? R> e? I, VJ 1 a.icnor i-lesswert v. ' is recorded as L / _T / ^ qq}.

Then v: irc ^: π weight abj.:no ^r i :: icn i? Nd the string writes ge0as'-v3ij, ί; ^_::: _ - ui ;: him rn.r- r-iungr-O-Oaeir · state ej.tnpaxiiit In autoclave wcVrI f:> r r-strand unäohst four minutes of Juei eiries YaV.irai-i, ;. ^ c:.: ·.?. 20 üinutcr the T, ± y \ irk of 115.6 ° C lieic-.3er, i "■ .m. ■■ <.- c-rrf under ei: ^ cr: pressure of 1.7 kg / cm '" Section. unc. Bchlie; -ojich ".:. ·;,". «- · γ 4 minutes eier SinwJrLung of a Yalnuu.is au. ^ Gesetirö '.rir.';. Tcoli der EnIw _x :. :: 2; vnr cl.es Stranges wire die Lä-: v; n nv ^ Hoh:.: Iv; i c -'- i: -r under a lactation with 50 g gGi:, esHen

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_{Λ r ft} BAD ORlQfNAU

209838/1059

wherein the measurement value is recorded as L / _R ^ _cn, and then the length of the strand under a load of 4300 g is determined, and this length is ^verzeicnn et than L / _R 4300). Percentage shrinkage under a load of 50 g (Sjthe percentage shrinkage under a load of 4300 g (p. ^ ₀₀ ) and the _yarn shrinkage difference AS yarn are then calculated according to the following equations:

B, 50 _{r 100} ^

^{50 L}

(I, 50)

^{4300 L}

(I, 43OO)

^As yarn ^{= 3} 50 " ^S 43OO

In the following examples ten strands are used for this test, and the mean difference in yarn shrinkage is calculated from these ten strands.

Shrinkage fluctuation test to determine the normal deviation ((JT) of the yarn

There are three lengths of yarn of approximately 20 cm each from the same Yarn sample taken and parallel in untensioned condition Glued to each other at both ends with adhesive tape on flat steel plates. The three lengths of yarn are the one to be examined Yarn has been removed from each other approximately 9 m apart. Each thread goes through for a length of 17.5 cm Mark with a sharp charcoal pencil in sections of each 0.5 cm subdivided, so that one for each of the three lengths of thread 35 yarn sections or a total of 105 sections, each 0.5 cm in length, are obtained from each test yarn. Then it will be from each and every one of them Section of photomicrographs taken at 20X magnification. With a suitable spacing of the yarns On the steel plates it is possible to create three sections, which are located on three yarn lengths arranged next to one another, with one

209838/1059

capture a single photograph. When the recordings of all 105 sections have been made,
the yarns are detached from the steel plate at one end so that they can shrink freely during the subsequent heat setting. The steel plate is then placed in a heat setting device and the heat setting is carried out by first exposing the yarns to a yakum for 4 minutes, then 20 minutes to the action of 1Ί5.6 · G
under a pressure of 1.7 kg / cm abs. and then again exposed to the action of a yakuum for 4 minutes.

After the heat setting, the loose ends of the individual yarn sections are again in an untensioned state with adhesive tape
glued to the steel plate, making sure
that the yarn sections are straight. Then microphotographs of the yarns are again taken at 20 times
Enlargement made. On the photomicrographs, the lengths of all yarn sections, originally measuring 0.5 cm, are measured before and after the shrinkage, and the percentage shrinkage is calculated for each individual 0.5 cm yarn section. The "mean value" of the percentage shrinkage of the individual yarn sections and the normal deviation (G *) from the mean value are determined from the 105 shrinkage measurements according to the following equations:

Mean = * "* ^x

nothing ²

x ² -

and =

where χ is the percentage shrinkage of the individual 0.5 cro yarn sections and η denotes the number of observations (in the present case 105).

The shrinkage was then taken from the slivers as fan samples individual fibers are subjected to the following boiling-off shrinkage test certainly.

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Heat shrinkage test

A paser, which is preferably at least 3 | 8 cm long, is conditioned for 20 minutes in air at 21.1 to 32.2 ° C and then for at least 16 hours in an air stream of 21.1 - 1.1 ° C and 65 - 2 fi relative humidity exposed. The initial length of the Paser (A) is measured, and then the 10 Paser - dipped 1 minute without tension at atmospheric pressure in boiling water. The laser is then conditioned again and the final length (B) of the laser is determined. The percentage shrinkage is calculated according to the equation

Shrinkage, fi = χ 100.

There should be at least ten for the group of strongly shrinking or for the group of weakly shrinking Measures representative lines, and the middle one The shrinkage value should be calculated.

In order to produce the yarns bundled in the form of sheaves according to the invention, it may be necessary to treat the fibers under conditions in which their shrinkability changes. This factor must be taken into account when choosing the fibers in order to meet the requirement of an average shrinkage difference of at least 5 ° .

Evaluation of the tissues

As part of the production according to the examples below Fabrics with regard to their crepe properties are the the following terms are used:

Very pronounced; Tissues that differ from each other to a very high degree Mark KrcppeX-ft'kt.

Pronounced: Tissue that is not through a high grade Characterize the crepe effect.

Massive: Tissue that is divided by a middle

Grad dos crepe effect ?: distinguish.

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BAQORiQINAL

209838/1059

Fine: fabrics that have a negligibly low,

have borderline degrees of crepe effect.

Weak: Fabrics that have a very low, marginal level of crepe effect.

Very weak: tissues that have a very low grade of

Show the creping effect, which is too low for fabrics that can easily be distinguished by the creping effect can be distinguished from conventional flat fabrics with flaws.

In the following examples, the degree of creping effect that can be achieved with different percentages of strongly shrinking fibers using a fiber starting material in which the shrinkage difference is about 13 to 14 fa is illustrated by the first two examples. Example 3 gives a comparison between the yarn-shaped bundled yarns according to the invention from fibers of different shrinkage capacity and from the same yarns in the same size ratios conventionally spun yarns and shows that crepe fabric can be produced from the yarns according to the invention, while this on the conventional yarn does not apply. Example 4- explained öen degree of crepe effect that can chrumxjfenden r-with different percentages of strong fibers with the use of output fibers with a Schruiripfdifferens of only about 8 fi obtained during example illustrates 5 yarns from Ausgangsfacern with a Schruiapfdifferena of about 28 $ = have been established. Examples 6, 8 and 9 illustrate various yarns of polyester fibers and mixtures cxxs Aerylnitril-Copolymerinatfaocrii while example 7 describes a yarn of acrylonitrile copolymer Sweikomponentenfasern.

209838/1059

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BATH ORIGINAL

example 1

A cable of 470,000 denier from 2 denier threads from a Copolyme risat of 94 parts of acrylonitrile, 5.8 parts of methyl acrylate and 0.2 part of sodium styrene sulfonate is in a conventional staple fiber machine ("Turbo Stapler", manufactured by the Turbo Machine Company, Lansdale , Pennsylvania, V.St.A.) stretch broken into a sliver of 73,400 denier. The plate temperature is 162.6 ° C., the stretching ratio is 2.38, the stretch setting is 30.5 cm and the draft is 2.73. The fibers in the sliver obtained ro have a thread titre of 0.99 den and a boil-off shrinkage of 15.26 #. This sliver is referred to as "sliver IH".

Another part of the cable is under the same conditions, but with a stretch setting of 33 cm, streok broken. The sliver obtained in this way is produced in an autoclave ("Turbo Fiber Setter") by the Turbo Machine Company) 'relaxed by being in vacuum for 4 minutes, then 20 minutes in hot water vapor at 115 »6 C under a pressure of 1.7 kg / cm abs. and finally treated in vacuo for 10 minutes. The fibers in the sliver thus obtained have a fadon titer of 1.09 denier and a boil-off shrinkage of $ 2.40. This sliver is referred to as "sliver I-I" and has a titer of 94 400 den.

From the above selection values it is calculated that the fibers in the sliver IH have an average shrinkage ratio which is 12.86% higher than that of the weakly shrinking fibers.

It is a series of slivers made by making. in in each case a total of 16 pieces of the fiber slivers described above in a conventional breaking machine (rebreaker) ("Gastonia Rebreak Machine", manufactured by Gastonia Roller, Flyer & Spindle Co., Inc., Gastonia, N.C, V.St.A., modified for the use of longer stretching distances and provided with feeding towels) with a stretching distance graduation of

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A ■ ²² ^ ⁸⁵⁵⁶

34.3 cm combined to form slivers of 64,000 denier, which contain various proportions of high and low shrinkage-reducing staple fibers. In the first combined sliver, all 16 pieces of the original slivers consist of sliver II. The second sliver is produced by mixing two pieces of sliver IH with 14 pieces of sliver IL in the breaking machine (rebreaker) to form a mixed fiber sliver, which Contains 10.0 fo strongly shrinking fibers. There are more slivers produced in which 3, 4 ,. 5, 6, 8 or all 16 of the 16 pieces of sliver combined on the ■ breaking machine consist of sliver IH, and in which the proportion of strongly shrinking fibers is accordingly 15.2 #, 20.6 £, 26.0 5 $, 31.8 ^, 44.0 i> and 100 #, respectively.

Each of the above combined slivers processed in the breaking machine are bundled in a sheaf shape Yarns produced according to the rapid drafting method according to FIG. 4 of US Pat. No. 3 438 "094. One works with a delay of 19 »01 between the pair of rollers 32 and 33 and the pair of rollers 38 and 39. "A delay of 37.54 is between the roller pair 38 and 39 and the front Yerzugswalzenpaar 30 and 31 are used to make a ribbon-shaped bundle. The roller 31 is of that shown in Figs. 2A and 2B of the United States patent 3 438 094 shown and described in Examples II and III thereof cage-shaped design. The yarn conveyor and take-up speed is 366 m / min. the The suction jet nozzle is the nozzle 41 according to FIG. 3 of US Pat. No. 3,079,746, with the exception that the yarn passage channel has a uniform diameter from inlet to outlet. Air is drawn through the air tube 31 of the suction jet nozzle at a sufficient pressure to ensure the suction of the fibers from the roll mouth of the cage-shaped rolls. The swirl nozzle 42 with a 0.158 cm wide yarn passage channel, similar to the swirl nozzle according to the invention, is used as the nozzle Figure 4 of U.S. Patent 3,079,746; this nozzle works

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with superheated steam at 232 ° C and a pressure of 11.6 kg / cm abs. The tension between the cage-shaped rollers and the take-up roller is kept in the range of 3 to 9 g. The properties of the so produced, sheaf-shaped bundled yarns are shown in Table I.

Four approaches of wide woven fabrics are made. In the first approach, the yarn, which is bundled in the form of sheaves and does not contain any strongly shrinking fibers, serves as the warp yarn; the second approach, the yarn used as a warp yarn with a content of 20.6 ° [o strongly shrinking parsers are; the warp yarn of the third approach is the yarn with the high shrinkage fiber content of $ 44; the warp yarn of the fourth approach is the 100 % yarn consisting of strongly shrinking fibers. Eight fabrics are produced in each batch, one of the eight yarn-shaped bundled yarns being used as the weft yarn. The fabrics are made with 1X1 plain weave in the Yfebstuhl with 47 warp threads per cm and 28 weft threads per cm, with the inclusion of the fourth approach from Gev / Eben, which is made with 47 warp threads per cm and 22 weft threads per cm. The fabric is finished by singeing, desizing and dyeing in a vat at boiling temperature for 2 hours, whereupon the crepe effect is noticed. Finally, the fabrics are dried and cold-calendered in the frame under relaxed conditions.

The tissues are according to the intensity scale given above examined for the degree of crepe effect appearing in them. With all four fabric approaches that have been made with the four different warp yarns, one notices that the degree of crepe effect is highly dependent: -l: igir; of the Weft yarn is. Tissues that cchuccgam the same, but differed? -! before contain warp yarns show the same degree of crepe effect, and the classification and evaluation hiruiichllich the crepe-like structure is there for the tissues with the four different keti yarns for every Sc Im ö ti yarn

-H- BAD ORIGINAL

209838/1059

the same. Therefore, iii is Table I for each weft yarn only one rating given for the crepe effect, which was the same for the fabrics with the four different ones Warp yarn applies.

In view of this observation, in Examples 2 to 9 only a single warp yarn is used to produce all fabrics.

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Tabel

σ -r

(O I

Properties of weft yarns according to Example 1 and the fabrics produced therefrom

Highly shrinking fiber content, $

Yarn titer, den

Yarn Shrinkage Difference Test

^S 50

^S 4300

yarn

Shrinkage fluctuation test mean

Evaluation of the fabric for crepe effect

0 89

10.0 89

12.1

4.4

ο -ρ fcO öd κ: c3 U cS ft

15.2 20.6 26.0 31.8 44.0 100.0

89

93

90

92

15.3

4.1

UD • Η ra

CQ

: cö B

o • H

03

ra

: aJ B

• Η Φ «Η

03

91

6.7 19.5 20.7 20.2 21.0 21.2 21.5 2.7 4.4 8.8 11.4 14.6 1: 6.5 18.6 4.0 15.1 11.9 8.8 6.4 4.7 2.9

14.9 "1: 5.9 17.2 16.4 3.0 2.8 2.4 1.6

Λ ο α? σ)

03

92

20, 4th κ.
<^ 2208556 19 1 1, 3 · 19 8th 1, 7th none

ft

Example 2

The cable used in Example 1 is converted into a sliver of 74,600 denier in the staple fiber machine, the cable being passed through plates at a temperature of 162.8 ° C., stretched 2.38 times and then at a stretch setting of 35.6 cm stretched \ tfird. The default is 2.73. The fibers in the sliver obtained in this way have a thread denier of 1.01 denier and a boiling-off shrinkage of 14.5% *. This sliver is referred to as "HH sliver".

A part of the sliver H-H is in the autoclave according to the example 1 relaxes, with the difference that in this case 113.6 ° C hot steam at a pressure of 1.6 kg / cm Section. is applied. Then 12 pieces of this sliver are cut in the breaking machine (rebreaker) at a stretching width adjustment

position of 34.3 cm mixed into a sliver of 64,000 den. The fibers in this combined sliver have a thread denier of 1.26 den and a boil-off shrinkage of 0.21 fo. This sliver is referred to as "HL sliver".

The output fibers of this example have similar but not exactly the same properties as the starting fiberii of Example 1, which is due to the differences that typically occur from batch to batch in stretch breaking and occur when relaxing in the autoclave.

From the above shrinkage values it is calculated that the Sliver H-H fibers a $ 14.29 higher medium Have shrinking power than the weakly shrinking fibers.

Eleven pieces of the sliver HI are then placed in the breaking machine (rebreaker) with a piece of sliver HH. mixed to a sliver of 64,000 den, which has a content of strongly shrinking fibers of 9.6 fi and is hereinafter referred to as "9.6 ^ fiber sliver". Other slivers will be

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produced in a similar way from a total of 12 pieces of sliver, in which O, 2, 4 or all 12 of the 12 pieces of sliver combined in the breaking machine consist of the sliver HH, so that the proportion of strongly shrinking fibers in the individual combined slivers obtained in this way is 0 $>, 19 9 ^, 36.9 fo, or $ 100. Further slivers are produced by mixing pieces of the 9> 6 ^ sliver with pieces of the sliver HL in the following proportions to form combined slivers that contain low proportions of the strongly shrinking fibers in the percentage concentrations given in brackets below: 1:11 ($ 0.8 strongly shrinking fibers); 2:10 (1.6 fi strongly shrinking fibers); 3: 9 ( $ 2.4> severely shrinking fibers); 6: 6 (4.3 5 »strongly shrinking fibers).

From each of the combined slivers described above, a batch of yarn-shaped bundled yarns is then produced according to the method aa Example 1, with the difference that the first draft is 25, 16, the second draft is 28.06 and in the swirl nozzle 232, 2 ° C hotter, overheated

ο water vapor under a pressure of 11.2 kg / cm abs. used will. The properties of the thus obtained sheaf-like bundled Yarns are listed in Table II.

With each of these yarn-shaped bundled yarns as a weft yarn, a wide woven fabric is produced. The tissues have lXl plain weave with 47 warp threads per cm and 23.5 weft threads per cm. The finishing is carried out according to Example 1. The fabrics are made according to that described above Scale rated on the degree of their crepe effect. The ratings are also found in Table II.

In all cases, the warp yarn bundled in a sheaf shape serves as the warp yarn Yarn, which contains 9.6 ^ strongly shrinking fibers.

- 18 209838/1059

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- 19 -

209838/1059

Example]. 3

A sliver of low shrinkage is produced from the white acrylonitrile copolymer fibers described in Example 1 using the same type of output cable, the same setting of the staple fiber machine and under the same relaxation conditions. After relaxation, a fiber sliver of 94,400 denier is obtained from fibers with a filament denier of 1.23 denier and a boiling-off shrinkage of 0.04 °. This fiber sliver is referred to as "sliver IH-L".

A cable of 470,000 made of black threads from the acrylonitrile copolymer described in Example 1 (the black Color is obtained by adding carbon black to the spinning solution) with a thread denier of 3 denier in the staple fiber machine stretch-broken under the conditions described above, with the difference that the draw ratio is 2.52. A sliver of 64,400 denier is obtained. This sliver, hereinafter referred to as "sliver III-H", is used not subjected to steam relaxation. The fibers in this sliver have a thread count of 1.16 den and a decoction cup of 14.6 ^.

From the above shrinkage values it is calculated that the Fibers in Sliver III-H a $ 14.56 higher average Have more shrinkage than the weakly shrinking fibers.

Eleven pieces of fiber tape IH-E and one piece of fiber tape IH-H are wiped in the breaking machine (rebreaker) to form a combined fiber tape of 64,000 denier, which contains 5.8% of severely shrinking staple fibers. Similarly, a sliver of 64,000 denier with 12.0 ^ strongly shrinking fibers is produced by mixing ten pieces of sliver IH-I with two pieces of sliver IH-H in the breaker, and a sliver of 64,000 denier with a content on strongly shrinking

- 20 -. 209838/1059 BAD ORIGINAL

A-823 i

Fibers of 25.5. 'f is produced by mixing eight pieces of sliver III-L with four pieces of sliver IH-H in the breaking machine. From each of these slivers, a batch of yarns bundled in a garbenförraig fashion is then produced in accordance with Example 1.

Further, three conventional spun yarns become different from the three mixed fiber ribbons Shrinkability produced by means of a conventional worsted spinning device. The manufacture of this yarn requires an additional pass through the breaking machine (rebreaker), six needle bar drawing processes, roving production and spinning on a worsted frame. The yarns obtained in this way have a linear density of 89 denier and 9.8 Z twists per cm. -

The properties of the sheaf-shaped bundled and the on conventionally spun yarns are summarized in Table III.

With each of the three yarns bundled in a sheaf shape in this example as the weft yarn is an approach of wide woven fabrics and with each of the three conventionally spun yarns as Weft yarn made from a matching approach of woven fabrics. The weave and finish are the same as in example 2. The fabrics are rated for their creping effect according to the above scale. The reviews can also be found in Table III.

In all cases a garbenförjnig is used as the warp yarn Bundled yarn with a content of strongly shrinking fibers of 9.6 ^, produced according to Example 2.

- 21 -9Π9Β 3 8/1059 B ^AD ORIGINAL

Tabel

III

to σ v>

ro

Properties of the weft yarns according to Example 3 and of the fabrics made therefrom

Content of s ~ zrk shrinking

lasers, ft

Garntiter, the Sarnschruirpfdi'ferenztest

^S 4500

chrurrpf fluctuation test Average

3? . ■. ■ "rtu ^Ti _J der Gev / ebe cuf

Sheaf-shaped
bundled game

5.8 12.0 25.5 92 93 93 16.5 18.7 • 19.9 2.9 5.6 12.3 13.6 13.1 . 7.6 11.7 14, -2 14.2 7.0 6.0 4.9

- pronounced - massive

Conventionally spun yarn

5.8 12.0 25.5 90 90 '90 14.6 17.2 20.7 7.4 9.2 13.6 7.2 8.0 7.1 12.2 13.7 16.0 2.2 2.3 2.7

Example 4

A strongly shrinking sliver of acrylonitrile copolymer fibers is produced according to Example 1 using the same output cable; however, the plate is at room temperature, the draw ratio in the draw section of the staple fiber machine is only 1.07, and the draw distance setting is 34.3 cm. The fibers in the sliver obtained in this way have a thread denier of 1.91 den and a boil-off shrinkage of 8.6 fi. The sliver has a denier of 64,000 and is hereinafter referred to as "sliver IV-H".

From a total of twelve pieces of this sliver, combined slivers of fibers of different shrinkage capacity are produced in the breaking machine (rebreaker) by mixing corresponding numbers of the sliver IV-H with corresponding numbers of the sliver HL. A series of fiber ribbons is produced with 0 fo, 8.3 ^, 16.7 #, 33.3? & Or 100 $ strongly shrinking fibers. A batch of yarns bundled in a sheaf shape according to Example 2 is then produced from each of these slivers. The properties of these yarns bundled in the form of sheaves are shown in Table IV.

From the shrinkage values of the fibers in the slivers is calculated that the fibers in the sliver IV-H have a higher by 8.4 f "mid-shrink capacity than the low shrinkage fibers.

With each of the five sheaf-like bundled yarns of this example as weft yarn is an approach of broad \ Ie \> - manufactured materials. The fabric construction and the finishing are the same as described in Example 2. The Gev; ebe are then rated for the degree of their creping effect. The fourth are also given in Table IV.

.- 23 209838/1059

A-823

For the production of all fabrics, a warp yarn made from a 9.6 $ strongly shrinking fiber is used as a warp yarn according to Example 2 Yarn made from yarn, bundled in a sheaf shape, is used.

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Example 5

A cable of 470,000 denier from a copolymer of 90.3 parts of acrylonitrile, 5.8 parts of methyl acrylate and 3.9 parts of methyl vinylpyridine with a thread denier of 3 denier is made in a conventional staple fiber machine according to Example 1 at a plate temperature of 149 ° C »a stretching ratio of 2.38 and a stretching width setting of 34.3 cm to a sliver of 64,000 denier stretched. The fibers in the sliver have a thread denier of 1.50 den and a boil-off shrinkage of 28.7 fo. This sliver is hereinafter referred to as "VH ¹ * sliver.

Twelve pieces of sliver are combined in the breaking machine (rtsbreaker) to produce slivers of fibers of different shrinkage capacity by mixing suitable amounts of sliver VH with corresponding amounts of sliver HL. In this way a series of fiber ribbons is obtained which contain 0 f » _f 8.3% 16.7 #, 33.3 $ or 100 $ of strongly shrinking fibers. From each of these fiber tapes, a batch of yarns bundled in the form of sheaves is produced according to Example 2, the properties of which are summarized in Table V.

From the shrinkage values of the fibers in the slivers it is calculated that the fibers of the sliver V-H have an average shrinkage capacity of $ 28.5 higher than that Fibers of the sliver H-L.

With each of the five yarns bundled in a sheaf shape, this one For example, a weft yarn approach is made from wide woven fabrics. "The weave and finish. Are that same as described in Example 2. The fabrics are examined for the degree of crepe effect appearing in them; the results can also be found in Table V.

- 25 209838/1059

A-823

The warp yarn used in all fabrics is the yarn, which is bundled in the form of a sheaf, and which has a strongly shrinking fiber content of $ 9.6.

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- 26 -

209838/1059 ORIGINAL

B e is ρ ie 1 6

A cable of 267,000 denier made of polyethylene terephthalate filaments with a denier of 1.5 denier is used in the staple fiber machine at a stretching ratio of 1.23 and a draft stretch broken from 3.74 to a sliver of 64,000 den. The fibers of the sliver have a thread denier of 1.4-0 den and a decoction shrinkage of $ 2.32. This sliver hereinafter referred to as "Sliver VI-L".

From a total of twelve pieces of fiber tape, combined fiber tapes from fibers of different shrinkage capacity are produced in the Breehmaschinc (rebreaker) by mixing suitable quantities of the fiber tape HH consisting of acrylonitrile copolymer fibers with corresponding numbers of the fiber tape VI-L made of polyethylene terephthalate fibers. In this way a series of slivers with 0 ^c / o, 9.6% 19.0 ^, 36.9 £ and 100 $> strongly shrinking fibers is produced. According to Example 2, a batch of yarns bundled in a sheaf shape is produced from each of these slivers. The properties of these yarns are given in Table VI.

From the shrinkage values of the fibers in the slivers it is calculated that the fibers of the sliver HH have an ^{average shrinkage capacity of 12.2 1} P higher than the fibers of the sliver VI-L.

Hit each of the five yarns bundled in a sheaf shape of this one For example, as a weft yarn, a wide woven fabric approach is used manufactured. The weave and finish are the same as described in Example 2. The tissues will then rated for the degree of their creping effect; the ratings are also given in Table VI.

The weft yarn used in all fabrics is the yarn produced according to Example 2, which is bundled in a sheaf shape and has a content of strongly shrinking fibers of 9.6 5 ».

- 27 209838/1059 fiAD ORIGINAL

Tabel

VI

Properties of the weft yarns according to Example 6 and the fabrics produced from them

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Content of strongly shrinking fibers, fo

Yarn titre, the yarn shrinkage difference test

^S 50 ^S 4300

Shrinkage variance test! • mean value

Evaluation of the fabric for crepe effect

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weak out
shapes moderate weak none

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Example 7

A cable of 4-70,000 denier made of two-component threads with a denier of 3 denier, 57 percent by weight of a copolymer of 94 parts of acrylonitrile, 5.8 parts of methyl acrylate and 0.2 part of sodium styrenesulfonate as the one component and 43 percent by weight a mixture of 90 % polyacrylonitrile and 10 % copolymer composed of 94 parts of acrylonitrile, 5.8 parts of methyl acrylate and 0.2 part of sodium styrene sulfonate as the other component, is stretch-broken in a conventional staple fiber machine. The stretching ratio is 2.38. A sliver of 64,000 denier is obtained from pasers with a thread denier of 1.52 denier and a boil-off shrinkage of 15 »1 $. This sliver is hereinafter referred to as "Sliver VII-H".

Part of the two-component fiber tape VII-H. will be in a technical heat fixing device, as described in example 1, relaxed. The fibers of the sliver obtained in this way have a thread denier of 1.56 denier and a boil-off shrinkage of 0.41 / 6. This sliver is hereinafter referred to as "sliver VII-L "and has a titre of 96,000 den.

From the above shrinkage values it is calculated that the fibers of the sliver VII-H have a mean value higher by 14.7 $ Have shrinkability than the fibers of the sliver VII-L.

Then a combined sliver of fibers of different shrinkage capacity is produced from one piece of sliver VII-H and eleven pieces of sliver VII-L. The combined sliver contains 5.7 f ^a strongly shrinking fibers. According to Example 2, a yarn bundled in a sheaf shape is produced from this sliver. The yarn bundled in the form of sheaves has a denier of 129 _denier , an S 5Q -V / ert of 15.6 ° / = _t, an S _43OQ value of 3.4 1 ° and an As _yarn of 12.2 pounds. In which

- 29 209838/1059

A-823 30

The mean value of the shrinkage fluctuation test is 15.3 5 »and the normal deviation (T 4.9. Using the sheaf-shaped bundled yarn of this example as the weft yarn and a sheaf-shaped bundled yarn produced according to Example 2 with a content of strongly shrinking fibers of 9.6 f» A wide woven fabric is produced as the warp yarn The mustache and the finishing are the same as described in Example 2. The fabric shows a pronounced crepe effect.

Example 8

A combined sliver of fibers with different shrinkage capacity is made from one piece of acrylonitrile copolymer fiber tape HH, five pieces of acrylonitrile copolymer fiber tape HL and six pieces of polyester fiber tape VI-L. This combined sliver contains $ 9.6 of severely shrinkable fibers. From this fiber tape, which consists of approximately 50% of acrylic fibers and 50 % of polyester fibers, a yarn bundled in a sheaf shape is produced according to Example 2. The yarn bundled in the form of sheaves has a denier of 93 den, an S ^ -VJ value of 15.7 #, an S, ~ ₀₀ value of 5.5 5> and an ^ S- of 10.2 #. In the shrinkage fluctuation test, a mean value of 13.1 ^ and an ITorraal deviation (T of 5.4. A broad yarn is used with the yarn bundled in the form of a yarn of this example as a weft yarn and a yarn bundled in a yarn made according to Example 2 and which is bundled in the form of a yarn with a content made of strongly shrinking fibers of 9.6 fi as a warp yarn.The fabric structure and the finishing are the same as described in example 2. Dao fabric shows a pronounced crepe effect.

Example 9

A combined sliver made from different fibers Shrinkage capacity is made from a piece of two-component clay fiberglass VII-H, five pieces of acrylonitrile copolymer two-component fiber tape VII-L and six pieces of polyester fiber bundle VI-L hergo-

- 30 209838/1059

represents. This combined! Sliver contains 6.9 i ^a high shrinkage! Fibers. For this to about 60 ° from i PoIyacrylfasern and approximately $ 4-0 consisting of polyester fibers sliver a sheaf shaped bundled yarn is produced according to Example 2. FIG. This yarn bundled in the form of sheaves has a denier of 11.8 den, an S, Q value of 15.4 #, an S, ^ ₀ value of $ 5.0 and an AS _Qarn of $ 10.4. In the shrinkage fluctuation test, the mean value is 13 »6 i> and the normal deviation G" 5 »7 · Sin is wider with the sheaf-shaped bundled yarn of this example than ichussgarn and a sheaf-shaped bundled yarn, which is produced according to Example 2 and 9» 6 includes $ severely shrinking parsers are manufactured as a warp yarn. the weave and finishing processes are the same as described in example 2. the fabric has a distinct crepe effect.

- 31 - 209838 / 10S9

Claims (3)

Claims 1. Yarn bundled in a sheaf shape with a core of discontinuous organic fibers, which is bundled by a spiral wrapping of discontinuous organic fibers, characterized in that the yarn has a yarn shrinkage difference of at least 5 i » and a normal deviation of the fluctuation in short-term shrinkage capacity of at least 2.8. 2. Method of making the sheaf-shaped bundled Yarn according to claim 1, in which one strand of organic • Ganic pasers are drawn into a ribbon-shaped bundle, the bundle is sucked from the front drafting rollers by a gas stream and then turned into one by false rotation Processed yarn, characterized in that one starts from a fiber mixture, the smaller proportion of which strongly shrinking fibers, the average shrinking capacity of which is at least 5 percentage units higher is than the average shrinkage capacity of the remaining fibers. 3. Use of the yarn bundled in a sheaf shape according to claim.1 or 2 for making crepe fabrics. - 32 - 209838/1059