EP0123857B1 - Chaussure - Google Patents

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Publication number
EP0123857B1
EP0123857B1 EP84102913A EP84102913A EP0123857B1 EP 0123857 B1 EP0123857 B1 EP 0123857B1 EP 84102913 A EP84102913 A EP 84102913A EP 84102913 A EP84102913 A EP 84102913A EP 0123857 B1 EP0123857 B1 EP 0123857B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
shoe
lining
shoe upper
terminating
edge
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired
Application number
EP84102913A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP0123857A2 (fr
EP0123857A3 (en
Inventor
Hedwig Ortner
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
B & J Gabor & Co GmbH
Original Assignee
B & J Gabor & Co GmbH
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by B & J Gabor & Co GmbH filed Critical B & J Gabor & Co GmbH
Priority to AT84102913T priority Critical patent/ATE30664T1/de
Publication of EP0123857A2 publication Critical patent/EP0123857A2/fr
Publication of EP0123857A3 publication Critical patent/EP0123857A3/de
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP0123857B1 publication Critical patent/EP0123857B1/fr
Expired legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B23/00—Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
    • A43B23/07—Linings therefor
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B23/00—Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
    • A43B23/02—Uppers; Boot legs
    • A43B23/0245—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form
    • A43B23/025—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form assembled by stitching
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B23/00—Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
    • A43B23/02—Uppers; Boot legs
    • A43B23/0245—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form
    • A43B23/0255—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form assembled by gluing or thermo bonding
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B9/00—Footwear characterised by the assembling of the individual parts
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43C—FASTENINGS OR ATTACHMENTS OF FOOTWEAR; LACES IN GENERAL
    • A43C11/00—Other fastenings specially adapted for shoes
    • A43C11/004—Fastenings fixed along the upper edges of the uppers
    • A43C11/006—Elastic fastenings

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a shoe with a convexly curved upper end of the shaft, preferably at the front end of the shoe outlet opening in the back area according to the preamble of claim 1.
  • a shoe is described in US-A-2185362.
  • Shoes have therefore also become known today which are provided with an elastic band, for example a rubber band, along their upper edge of the shaft below an inwardly folded end strip of the upper material.
  • This rubber band is preferably glued between the inwardly folded end strip and the outward facing upper material in the prestressed state.
  • the inner lining extends to just below the upper edge of the shoe and is sewn there with a longitudinal seam.
  • the overall aesthetic impression is not very appealing. This is mainly due to the fact that the elastic band and its freedom of movement are severely restricted by the gluing process of the elastic band. If, in addition, the lining reaching to just below the shaft exit edge in the end strip provided there is possibly sewn together with the elastic band by longitudinal seams, this leads to a further impairment of the elasticity. Furthermore, the chuck that extends to just below the shaft end edge continues to apply and thus also counteracts a soft shaft end edge. Finally, the elastic band, in particular at the convexly curved front outlet opening in the back of the foot, causes an unattractive and visually very noticeable gathering of the upper material of the shoe without the desired softness and elasticity being achievable on the upper edge of the upper.
  • the inward cut edges of the lining are cut differently from the upper leather material, in such a way that their inwardly facing cut edges deviate inward from the cut edges of the shoe upper material at an angle of 5 ° to 30 °.
  • the elastic band is attached to the end strip of the upper material folded inwards on the upper shaft end edge only via an elastic chain table, the high mobility of the elastic band is obtained, so that this corresponds to that in the case of Sewing the selected pretension allows a fine, light gathering of the upper material on the upper edge of the shaft.
  • an embodiment is advantageous in which the elastic band is enclosed by the end strip.
  • only the outer material and the opposite, unglued and inwardly folded end strip with the elastic band sewn thereon are provided at the level of the elastic band.
  • the height of the folded end strip corresponds at least to the height of the elastic band, which height according to a development according to claim 5 is preferably more than 5 mm. This further supports the goal of a soft and elastic shaft end edge.
  • the folded end strip of the upper material is sewn along its inner cut edge to the lining, which in turn is glued to the inside of the shoe upper material.
  • the end strip of the upper material and the lining are sewn directly along their inner cut edges. This also ensures that the lining only begins below the end band and does not lead to stiffening and thickening of the upper end of the shaft.
  • FIG. 1 shows a shoe, specifically a pump in a perspective view obliquely from above, with an upper material 1, a high heel 3 and a front outlet opening 5 in the region of the back of the foot with an essentially convexly curved upper edge 9.
  • the upper material 1 which is preferably made of leather, has a completely or partially circumferential end strip 7 in the foot cutout area, which is folded inwards along the upper end edge 9 of the shaft.
  • a zigzag or chain stitch 11 runs along the end strip 7, via which an elastic band located underneath is fastened, which will be discussed further.
  • a lining 13 adjoins the end strip 7 and extends down to an insole 15.
  • FIG. 2 is discussed below. in which the two cutting templates for the upper material 1 and the lining 13 are shown lying one on top of the other.
  • the upper material 1 is shown lying on top of the lining 13.
  • the upper material 1 and the lining 13 in the region of the front outlet opening 5 have an identical and essentially congruent course of curvature of the cutting edge 17 of the upper material and the cutting edge 19 of the lining.
  • the absolute angular position is dependent on the height of the heel, with the increasing height of the heel the two side areas of both the upper material and the lining from their front outlet opening 5 to their rear area being more closely aligned.
  • the outer material 1 with its outer surface and the lining 13 with its surface lying on the inside at the top in the finished state of the shoe are then sewn together directly along their cut edges 17 and 19 via a seam 25.
  • the aforementioned elastic band 27 is sewn onto the upper material 1 by means of the chain stitch 11 in a preselectable prestress.
  • the high softness and elasticity is thus achieved along the shaft end edge 9 in that only the folded upper material with the elastic band 27 sewn onto the end strip 7 is provided in this region and below it. Since the lining 13 only joins below, a further thickening at the upper end area is avoided.
  • the mentioned zigzag or chain stitch 11 makes any desired movement of the elastic band 27 and thus contributes to the high wearing comfort.
  • the desired elasticity and visually appealing gathering of the upper material 1, in particular in the area of the front convex outlet opening 5, is ultimately also ensured by the fact that the upper material 1 and the lining 13 in this area also directly along their cut edges 17 and 19 via the seam 25 with one another are sewn, but this seam 25 also lies in the area of the front outlet opening 5, at least offset by the height of the elastic band 27 in the shoe on the inside, ultimately the line 29, which is shown in FIG corresponds to a larger radius and consequently a greater length than the cut edge 17 of the upper material 1 of the upper edge 9 of the upper formed on the finished shoe, the dimensions of which correspond approximately to the solid line 31 in plan view in FIG.
  • the upper material 1 is gathered in particular in the area of the front outlet opening 5, so that slight folds 33 - as shown in FIG. 1 - result.
  • the zigzag seam 11 is the simplest form of an elastic, stretchable seam.
  • stretchable seams are known as chain seams or chain stitch seams.
  • chain seams are also possible.
  • chain seams are also possible as an elastic and stretchable seam.
  • chain stitch 11 can also be sewn below the upper shaft end edge 9 on the upper material 1, but this is generally not desirable for aesthetic reasons - since the seam is then visible from the outside.

Landscapes

  • Footwear And Its Accessory, Manufacturing Method And Apparatuses (AREA)

Claims (11)

1. Chaussure présentant, lorsque vue en plan, un bord de fermeture de tige (9) courbé de façon convexe de préférence à l'extrémité avant de l'ouverture de l'empeigne (5), à la partie dorsale du pied, comportant une matière de dessus de chaussure (1) et une doublure (13) fixée à l'intérieur et se terminant au-dessous du bord de fermeture de tige (9), dans laquelle il est prévu. sur une bande de recouvrement (7) de la matière du dessus de chaussure (1) faisant au moins partiellement le tour du bord intérieur de fermeture de tige (9) de la chaussure, un ruban élastique (27) fixé à la bande de recouvrement (7) au moyen d'une couture (11), caractérisée en ce que les parties latérales (21 ; 23) de la matière du dessus de chaussure (1) et de la doublure (13) se prolongeant jusqu'à la partie talon de ladite chaussure, lorsqu'elles sont présentées en développement et à l'état découpé, sont conçues de manière à ce que les bords (19) des parties latérales (23) de la doublure (13) forment respectivement un angle de 5° à 30° par rapport aux bords intérieurs (17) des parties latérales (21) de la matière du dessus de chaussure (1), en ce que la couture est élastique et en ce que le ruban élastique (27) se trouve fixé à l'état prétendu uniquement au moyen de la couture élastique (11) à la bande de recouvrement (7) repliée vers l'intérieur de la chaussure, le long du bord de fermeture de tige (9).
2. Chaussure suivant la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce que le ruban élastique (27) est entouré par la bande de recouvrement (7).
3. Chaussure suivant la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce qu'à hauteur du ruban élastique (27), il est uniquement prévu la matière du dessus de chaussure (1) située à l'extérieur et la bande de recouvrement (7) comportant le ruban élastique (27) cousu sur ladite bande de recouvrement (7), laquelle est repliée vers l'intérieur de la chaussure.
4. Chaussure suivant une des revendications 1 à 3, caractérisée en ce que la largeur de la bande de recouvrement (7) repliée vers l'intérieur correspond au moins à la largeur du ruban élastique (27).
5. Chaussure suivant la revendication 4, caractérisée en ce que la largeur de la bande de recouvrement (7) repliée est d'au moins 5 mm.
6. Chaussure suivant une des revendications 1 à 5, caractérisée en ce que la bande de recouvrement (7) de la matière du dessus de chaussure (1) repliée vers l'intérieur est cousue le long de ses bords intérieurs (17) avec la doublure (13), laquelle est collée (28) sur la face interne de la matière du dessus de chaussure (1).
7. Chaussure suivant la revendication 6, caractérisée en ce que la bande de recouvrement (7) de la matière du dessus de chaussure (1) et la doublure (13) sont cousues l'une à l'autre directement le long de leurs bords (17 ; 19) situés à l'intérieur.
8. Chaussure suivant une des revendications 1 à 7, caractérisée en ce que la jonction (25) entre la matière du dessus de chaussure (1) et la doublure (13) est réalisée de manière à ce que les bords (17 ; 19) de la matière du dessus de chaussure et de la doublure (13) se situent à l'opposé de la partie intérieure visible de la chaussure.
9. Chaussure suivant une des revendications 1 à 8, caractérisée en ce que les bords (17 ; 19) de la matière du dessus de chaussure (1) et de la doublure (13) présentent une même courbure à l'extrémité avant de l'ouverture de l'empeigne (5).
10. Chaussure suivant une des revendications 1 à 9, caractérisée en ce que la couture élastique (11) est une couture extensible en points de chaînette.
11. Chaussure suivant une des revendications 1 à 10, caractérisée en ce que la couture élastique (11) est une couture du type zigzag.
EP84102913A 1983-03-25 1984-03-16 Chaussure Expired EP0123857B1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
AT84102913T ATE30664T1 (de) 1983-03-25 1984-03-16 Schuh.

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE8308995U DE8308995U1 (de) 1983-03-25 1983-03-25 Schuh
DE8308995U 1983-03-25

Publications (3)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0123857A2 EP0123857A2 (fr) 1984-11-07
EP0123857A3 EP0123857A3 (en) 1985-08-07
EP0123857B1 true EP0123857B1 (fr) 1987-11-11

Family

ID=6751645

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP84102913A Expired EP0123857B1 (fr) 1983-03-25 1984-03-16 Chaussure

Country Status (3)

Country Link
EP (1) EP0123857B1 (fr)
AT (1) ATE30664T1 (fr)
DE (2) DE8308995U1 (fr)

Families Citing this family (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE8308995U1 (de) * 1983-03-25 1983-09-22 B. & J. Gabor GmbH & Co, 8200 Rosenheim Schuh
GB2232058A (en) * 1989-05-31 1990-12-05 Fisher Camuto Corp Shoe
TWI723627B (zh) * 2015-05-29 2021-04-01 荷蘭商耐克創新有限合夥公司 鞋類物件以及用集成領襯製造鞋類物件的方法
US11641908B2 (en) * 2019-11-14 2023-05-09 Converse Inc. Article of footwear with stretchable upper

Family Cites Families (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US1973085A (en) * 1933-10-13 1934-09-11 Liberman Max Shoe
US2185362A (en) * 1937-08-16 1940-01-02 Troy Seymour Shoe
US2206756A (en) * 1938-12-16 1940-07-02 Shapiro James Footwear
DE8308995U1 (de) * 1983-03-25 1983-09-22 B. & J. Gabor GmbH & Co, 8200 Rosenheim Schuh

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
ATE30664T1 (de) 1987-11-15
DE3467290D1 (en) 1987-12-17
DE8308995U1 (de) 1983-09-22
EP0123857A2 (fr) 1984-11-07
EP0123857A3 (en) 1985-08-07

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