EP0221248A2 - Procédé et dispositif pour sertir des pierres précieuses - Google Patents

Procédé et dispositif pour sertir des pierres précieuses Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0221248A2
EP0221248A2 EP86110360A EP86110360A EP0221248A2 EP 0221248 A2 EP0221248 A2 EP 0221248A2 EP 86110360 A EP86110360 A EP 86110360A EP 86110360 A EP86110360 A EP 86110360A EP 0221248 A2 EP0221248 A2 EP 0221248A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
metal
gemstone
tube
setting
pressed
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
EP86110360A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP0221248B1 (fr
EP0221248A3 (en
Inventor
Anton Hilbing
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Gebr Niessing & Co GmbH
Original Assignee
Gebr Niessing & Co GmbH
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Gebr Niessing & Co GmbH filed Critical Gebr Niessing & Co GmbH
Priority to AT86110360T priority Critical patent/ATE46811T1/de
Publication of EP0221248A2 publication Critical patent/EP0221248A2/fr
Publication of EP0221248A3 publication Critical patent/EP0221248A3/de
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP0221248B1 publication Critical patent/EP0221248B1/fr
Expired legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
    • A44C17/043—Setting-tools
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a method and a device for setting precious stones, the precious stone being encompassed at least in regions in a metal forming the setting.
  • Gemstone settings are known in very different designs.
  • the Chaton version, the frame version, the cut version as a thread or pave version or the Karreau version, the rubbed version, the two-point version or the mirror version are just examples.
  • a disadvantage of known versions is, on the one hand, that they often have to be designed in a very complex manner, but this is harmless as long as the version itself forms part of this piece of jewelry.
  • Another disadvantage, however, is that the known versions overlap the stones to be set in some areas, so that the overall visual impression of the set gemstone is reduced.
  • the object of the invention is to provide a solution with which a method and a device are specified with which, on the one hand, a very secure setting of the gem set can be achieved, while at the same time the part of the gem covered by the setting is reduced to a minimum.
  • this object is achieved according to the invention in that the gem is surrounded by a tube made of the setting metal with a slightly larger inside diameter than the larger outside diameter of the gem and then the tube with the gem by a conical die in such a way is driven that the gemstone is pressed at least in some areas into the material of the surrounding, reducing in diameter metal tube.
  • the tubular setting metal grips the gem to be gripped firmly via the conical die and is deformed in such a way that the stone is held very securely and firmly, the areas covering the gemstone being very small due to the type of setting can.
  • This type of socket has the further advantage that it minimizes the amount of metal required for the socket.
  • the safety of the frame is far higher than that of the hand-made frames, since hardly any deformation of the fitting gold tube has to be carried out, so that the metal structures do not change, as is possible with hand-made frames.
  • a not inconsiderable further advantage is that the time associated with setting a gemstone is extremely reduced, for example the duration of the setting according to the invention is only 1/5 the time that must be spent with conventional frame frames, the frame according to the invention can be carried out by trained assistants, while this is not possible with conventional frames, since these have to be carried out by experts.
  • pipe does not necessarily mean a body with a circular inside and outside diameter.
  • rectangular, square, oval or polygonal bodies with a cross-section can be meant by this expression, both in terms of the inside and outside diameter.
  • the order of magnitude when reaching over a gemstone can be, for example, 0.1 mm, without the invention being restricted to this. In any case, it should be as small as possible and as large as necessary.
  • the invention therefore also provides that the pressing of edge areas of the gemstone into the surrounding setting metal takes place on the order of 0.1 mm.
  • the invention provides that metal tubes with a plurality of identical and / or unequal internal recesses are used, so that a plurality of gemstones can be held in a corresponding metal tube even in a single setting process.
  • the surrounding metal tube is machined before and / or after the gems are pressed in.
  • This post-processing can not only consist of e.g. completely remove the tube used for the socket above and below the socket area. This can also mean area-wise removal, for example by slitting in the longitudinal direction of the tube used for the socket or by introducing partial recesses and the like. Like. more.
  • the invention solves the problem outlined in a device of the type mentioned at the outset in that the device is provided with a conical die, a centrally guided support in the conical die for receiving the gem and the enveloping metal tube, and a device for exerting a uniform contact pressure of the metal tube is.
  • the diameter of a metal tube can be reduced. So that the metal is in Directed towards the stone arranged inside the inner recess. It detects the periphery of the stone and is pressed in regions around the outward-facing edge regions. The investment on the gem does not have to be done in full, here a few touches are enough to hold the stone.
  • the invention provides that the support is spring-loaded against the pulling direction, which greatly simplifies the handling of the device, since the mounting process can be carried out very precisely and very carefully by applying a counterpressure against the pulling direction.
  • the invention also provides that the cross-sectional shapes of the conical dies are adapted to the respective cross-sectional shapes of the metal pipe to be pressed.
  • the device generally designated 1, consists of a conical die 2, a support stamp 3 with a spring 4 and a pressure stamp 5.
  • a diamond 6 for example, it is first placed on the support stamp 3. Then a tube 7, e.g. made of gold, placed over it, the gold tube 7 having an inner diameter which is slightly larger than the largest outer dimension of the brilliant-cut diamond 6.
  • the gold tube 7 is reduced in its outer diameter. Since it is designed as a hollow tube, this tapering movement continues inwards, so that the metal is pressed into the periphery 8 of the brilliant-cut diamond 6, as is shown in simplified form in FIG. 2.
  • the amount of indentation when pulling in can be very small. If the gem is held at its entire circumference, a dimension of less than 1/10 mm is often sufficient.
  • Fig. 3 shows the top view of a set diamond 6.
  • a gem set in this way can now be used for further jewelry processing, e.g. with a finger ring, a brooch, a pendant, a chain u. Like. Be connected more. As you can see, only a very small part of the gemstone is covered by the metal, so that it can develop its full effect.
  • Fig. 4 shows the possibility of first making three holes in a solid tube 7a, inserting them into these three gemstones and then pressing them with a conical die with the metal.
  • 5 to 7 show the possibility of inserting 7 gemstones of different types of cut into a gold tube and to grasp there.
  • FIG. 8 and 9 show oval gold tubes 7b on the outer edge side with internal bores made in the solid material
  • FIG. 10 shows an oval gold tube 7c with a brilliant-cut diamond 6, which is only set on a few outer areas.
  • FIG. 11 shows a rectangular tube made of precious metal, into which an inner bore has been made in order to be able to insert a gem there, while FIG. 12 is intended to represent a square hollow tube made of precious metal.
  • the respective tubes are designated 7d and 7e.
  • FIGS. 13 to 15 show pipes made of precious metal with a gemstone, areas of these pipes being removed.
  • the areas which are approximately cupped in supervision are designated by 9 in FIG. 13 and have been created by removing a solid tube with internal bores for receiving the gemstone 6.
  • FIG. 14 The areas that have stopped in FIG. 14 are designated by 10, those in FIG. 15 by 11.
  • FIG. 15 shows four such webs. Of course, these webs are connected to each other below the gem.
  • the described exemplary embodiments of the invention can be modified in many ways without departing from the basic idea.
  • the invention is not limited to the post-processing steps described here, these are still possible in many ways.
  • the invention is also not restricted to noble metals; the process can also be carried out with other metals.

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  • Adornments (AREA)
  • Revetment (AREA)
  • Supplying Of Containers To The Packaging Station (AREA)
EP86110360A 1985-11-02 1986-07-26 Procédé et dispositif pour sertir des pierres précieuses Expired EP0221248B1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
AT86110360T ATE46811T1 (de) 1985-11-02 1986-07-26 Verfahren und vorrichtung zum fassen von edelsteinen.

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE3539017 1985-11-02
DE19853539017 DE3539017A1 (de) 1985-11-02 1985-11-02 Verfahren und vorrichtung zum fassen von edelsteinen

Publications (3)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0221248A2 true EP0221248A2 (fr) 1987-05-13
EP0221248A3 EP0221248A3 (en) 1988-03-30
EP0221248B1 EP0221248B1 (fr) 1989-10-04

Family

ID=6285095

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP86110360A Expired EP0221248B1 (fr) 1985-11-02 1986-07-26 Procédé et dispositif pour sertir des pierres précieuses

Country Status (3)

Country Link
EP (1) EP0221248B1 (fr)
AT (1) ATE46811T1 (fr)
DE (2) DE3539017A1 (fr)

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US5044177A (en) * 1987-09-30 1991-09-03 Diamonts De Joaillerie Henri Favre Setting support for a fine ornamental precious stone

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE3838317A1 (de) * 1988-11-11 1990-07-05 Niessing Geb Verfahren und vorrichtung zum fassen von edelsteinen, insbesondere von brillanten

Family Cites Families (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR450811A (fr) * 1912-11-20 1913-04-04 Leon Schwob Monture tubulaire des pierres naturelles ou artificielles
US2533870A (en) * 1948-12-22 1950-12-12 William F Bayer Stone setting tool
BE743480A (fr) * 1968-12-30 1970-05-28
FR2428990A1 (fr) * 1978-06-22 1980-01-18 Auchere Francois Procede de sertissage de pierres sur un anneau et anneau obtenu par ce procede
DE3237490A1 (de) * 1982-10-09 1984-04-12 Johannes 6113 Babenhausen Puth Edelsteineinfassung sowie verfahren zu ihrer herstellung
FR2579428B1 (fr) * 1985-04-01 1987-05-29 Piro Xavier Dispositif pour l'incrustation d'un diamant dans une dent

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US5044177A (en) * 1987-09-30 1991-09-03 Diamonts De Joaillerie Henri Favre Setting support for a fine ornamental precious stone

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
DE3665978D1 (en) 1989-11-09
EP0221248B1 (fr) 1989-10-04
ATE46811T1 (de) 1989-10-15
EP0221248A3 (en) 1988-03-30
DE3539017A1 (de) 1987-05-21

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