EP0226829A1 - Dispositif d'escalade - Google Patents

Dispositif d'escalade Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0226829A1
EP0226829A1 EP86116119A EP86116119A EP0226829A1 EP 0226829 A1 EP0226829 A1 EP 0226829A1 EP 86116119 A EP86116119 A EP 86116119A EP 86116119 A EP86116119 A EP 86116119A EP 0226829 A1 EP0226829 A1 EP 0226829A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
eccentric
climbing device
fork
cams
disc
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
EP86116119A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP0226829B1 (fr
Inventor
Paul-Heinrich Steinacker
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Individual
Original Assignee
Individual
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from DE3545306A external-priority patent/DE3545306C1/de
Priority claimed from DE19863616026 external-priority patent/DE3616026A1/de
Application filed by Individual filed Critical Individual
Priority to AT86116119T priority Critical patent/ATE45887T1/de
Publication of EP0226829A1 publication Critical patent/EP0226829A1/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP0226829B1 publication Critical patent/EP0226829B1/fr
Expired legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A63—SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
    • A63B—APPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
    • A63B29/00—Apparatus for mountaineering
    • A63B29/08—Hand equipment for climbers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A63—SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
    • A63B—APPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
    • A63B29/00—Apparatus for mountaineering
    • A63B29/02—Mountain guy-ropes or accessories, e.g. avalanche ropes; Means for indicating the location of accidentally buried, e.g. snow-buried, persons
    • A63B29/024—Climbing chocks

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a climbing device for mountaineers for releasable clamping in a rock crack, crevice or the like, consisting of a holding part, at one end of which a receiving part provided with an axle bolt is arranged and an eccentric pivotally mounted on the axle bolt, the receiving part and the eccentric are designed as parallel cams, the profiled curve surface of which forms the bearing surface, which partially lies against a gap wall when the climbing device is clamped, the curve profile of two cams moving in the same direction being congruent.
  • Such a climbing device is known from DE-OS 35 17 741.
  • This climbing device has two eccentrics pivotally mounted on the axle bolt, between which the receiving part, which is likewise provided with a curved surface, is arranged. All three cams are pivotable relative to each other, so that transverse forces acting on the clamped climbing device, in particular if they attack from changing directions, the eccentrics can tip over. The same transverse forces are also the reason why the entire climbing device can move into the gap due to the relative movement of the eccentrics.
  • the transverse forces which occur can result, for example, from corresponding movements of the rope guided in the clamping device which cannot be influenced and which, in the manner described, can lead to the instability corresponding to an unstable two-point position.
  • the climbing device can automatically turn out of the crevice.
  • Another climbing device is known from DE-OS 34 16 623.
  • the climbing device described therein, equipped with an eccentric is designed in such a way that two opposing curved surfaces of the eccentric are of identical design and, after the climbing device has been introduced, for example into the rock gap, bear against the opposing gap walls.
  • the eccentric With a tensile load acting on the climbing device, the eccentric wedges in the rock gap and prevents it such a slipping out of the climbing device.
  • This possibility of securing here presupposes, however, that the rock gap is larger than the smallest width of the eccentric, so that there is still enough space for it to turn around the axle bolt and thus achieve a clamping effect.
  • the gap width corresponds approximately to the smallest width of the eccentric, then the climbing device cannot be clamped by the eccentric, since the eccentric is not given the possibility of rotating accordingly in order to achieve a clamping effect.
  • the present invention is therefore based on the object to provide a climbing device of the generic type which ensures a stable and secure clamping effect in any load situation with structurally simple means and holds reliably even with smooth gap walls and that the climbing device can be used over a larger gap angle range and whose unwanted "wandering" into or out of the gap caused by transverse movements of the attached climbing rope is prevented.
  • the receiving part is designed as a fork
  • the eccentric is arranged between the fork legs and the fork legs are designed as cams.
  • An advantageous embodiment of the invention provides that the curve of the eccentric and the curves of the cams are designed so that they are parallel or almost parallel to each other gap walls in each clamped position at an angle of 15 to 20 ° to the cross-sectional center of the axle bolt on the rest against the assigned rock gap.
  • the axle bolt is no longer secured by means of nuts or split pins as before, but is instead either glued or riveted to the fork legs.
  • weight can be saved, which is very important, since every climber takes a large number of climbing devices with him on a climbing tour and thus any weight reduction makes sense to the extent that the climbing device also in erosion holes with an almost circular cross section, as z. B. occur in limestone or sandstone can be used.
  • a further idea according to the invention provides that the eccentric consists of two eccentric disks which are arranged to be movable with respect to one another and mostly lie flat against one another and are essentially mirror images of one another.
  • one eccentric disc performs a relative movement with respect to the other, in which one eccentric disc is loaded under pressure and the other under tension. Since both load sizes are approximately the same, they are ideally canceled against each other, so that there is either a standstill or the worst If there is negligible wandering into the crevice, but never walking out of the crevice.
  • a further advantageous embodiment of the invention provides that the profiles of the curved surfaces consist of grooves which are semicircular in cross section and which run parallel and at a distance from one another in the transverse direction of the respective curved surface.
  • Two essential advantages result from this configuration according to the invention: If you designate every distance between two grooves as a tooth, each tooth is congruent in its curve surface course with the curve surface of the eccentric as a whole, so that the effect of the clamping effect caused by the eccentricity remains unrestricted in every position. Furthermore, the notch effect acting on each tooth is largely reduced by the semicircular cross-sectional shape of the groove, so that tearing out of the teeth, as was observed under extreme load, for example in the case of trapezoidal or rectangular teeth in cross section, is largely avoided.
  • the climbing devices shown in the figures each consist in their basic structure of a holding part 4, a receiving part connected to the holding part 4 at one end, which is designed as a fork 1, in which an axle bolt 5 is fixed.
  • An eccentric 3 is pivotably arranged on the axle pin 5, in which a spiral spring 6 engages in the exemplary embodiments shown in FIGS. 1 to 6, which is guided over the axle pin 5 and which is, on the other hand, fixed to one of the fork legs designed as cam disks 2.
  • the two cam plates 2 forming the fork legs are arranged parallel to the eccentric 3 and are congruent.
  • the eccentric 3 can be pivoted into a zero position via a pull cable 7 connected to the eccentric 3 against the spring force of the spiral spring 6.
  • the clamping device can then be inserted into a rock gap, a rock crack or a hole.
  • the eccentric 3 is removed from the curves by means of the spiral spring 6 disks 2 spread apart and come with a curved surface to rest on a wall of the gap, the crack or the hole as the curved surfaces of the cams 2 on the opposite wall.
  • Stops 8 which are arranged on the one hand on the inside of the cam discs 2 and on the other hand on the two broad sides of the eccentric 3, prevent the clamping device from spreading out and limit the pivoting path of the eccentric 3.
  • the stops 8 can, as can be seen very clearly in FIGS. 1 and 2, consist in a known manner of recessed pins, split pins or the like.
  • the fork 1 and the eccentric 3 are cast, for example, from aluminum, to also mold the stops 8.
  • the holding part 4 of the clamping device shown in Figures 1 to 3 consists of a rope 9, which can be made of metal or plastic, for example, and which is guided on the one hand through two adjacent holes 10 of the fork flange and on the other hand is formed into a loop through which a climbing rope is feasible.
  • a sleeve 12 is pulled over the rope 9, which is preferably made of rubber or a there is rubber-like plastic and which in addition to good grip also offers protection of the rope 9 from damage.
  • FIG. 4 A special embodiment of the holding part 4 is shown in Figures 3 and 4.
  • the rope 9 is guided so that it lies in three layers one above the other in the area in which it is covered by the sleeve 12 and the clamps 11. This can be seen particularly clearly in FIG. 4, and it can also be seen that the central axes of the rope strands form a triangle in a cross-sectional position.
  • This formation of the rope 9 has the advantage that while maintaining the flexibility of the holding part 4, which, as already mentioned, is desired, a stiffness of the holding part 4 which facilitates the handling of the climbing device is increased.
  • FIG. 5 Another embodiment of a climbing device is shown in Figures 5 and 6.
  • the cams 2 of the fork 1 are connected to one another in the region of their open end by a web 13.
  • a particularly lightweight construction of the fork 1 is possible because this web 13 represents a substantial reinforcement with regard to the load-bearing capacity.
  • the holding part 4 consists of a handle bar 15, which can be designed, for example, as a thin-walled tube.
  • a grip loop 16 is provided, which is guided through the fork 1 and whose displacement within the fork 1 is limited by a pin 14 connecting the cams 2 to one another.
  • a further advantageous embodiment of the invention can be seen there, namely that the curves of the eccentric 3 or the cam disks 2 are designed such that they are in each clamped position at an angle of 15 in the case of rock gap walls 17, 18 running parallel or almost parallel to one another up to 20 ° to the cross-sectional center of the axle pin 5 on the respectively assigned gap wall 17, 18.
  • a further advantageous embodiment of the invention provides that the axle pin 5 is fixed in the outer region of the cams 2 opposite the holding part 4. It is expedient to place the axle pin 5 as far in the edge region of the cam discs 2 as is still permissible for reasons of strength. With such an arrangement of the axle pin 5, the climbing device can be used in rock holes even with a shallow depth, with the guarantee that it can also be reliably clamped there. Characterized in that the support points on the one hand of the eccentric 3 and on the other of the cams 2 on the gap walls 17, 18 in the direction of the holding part 4 are slightly seen. the axle pin 5, in any case there is a spreading effect of the eccentric 3 or the cam plates when the holding part 4 is loaded 2 and thus a clamping of the entire climbing device.
  • the eccentric 3 is designed according to a further idea according to the invention so that it is thicker in the edge area delimited by the curved surface than in the rest of the area.
  • this configuration of the eccentric 3 offers very great advantages, since the thickening of the eccentric 3 in the curve region means that practically a wider contact surface is available when the eccentric 3 is pressed against a gap wall stands, which reduces the surface pressure and thus prevents the eccentric from digging into the rock, which would certainly hinder a subsequent loosening of the climbing device.
  • the climbing device shown in Figures 11 and 12 shows that the eccentric 3 according to a further advantageous embodiment of the invention consists of two eccentric discs 20 which are at least partially flat against each other.
  • stop means By means of mutually corresponding stop means, as in the present exemplary embodiment consists of a stop bolt 21 connected to an eccentric disk 20, which is arranged on the surface facing the other eccentric disk 20 and engages in an elongated hole 22 of this eccentric disk 20, the eccentric disks 20 are movable with respect to one another to a limited extent.
  • the eccentric disks 20 are movable with respect to one another to a limited extent.
  • a through hole 23 is also provided, through which the traction cable 7, with which the eccentric 3 can be pivoted, is guided.
  • the through bores 23 are larger in diameter than the diameter of the pull cable 7, the difference between the bore diameter and the pull cable diameter corresponding at least to the distance that one eccentric disc 20 can be moved relative to the other. This prevents the traction cable 7 from being subjected to shear during a relative pivoting movement of the eccentric discs 20.
  • Each cam disc 2 has, on its end facing the eccentric 3, projecting into the interior of the fork 1 in each case a stop 24 on which the eccentric discs 20 are also supported with a stop 25 in the non-use position.
  • the eccentric disks 20, which are essentially mirror images of one another, are pressed against the stops 24 by means of spring force, the spring force being generated by helical springs 26, one on each of each eccentric disk 20 molded projection 27 is guided, which largely fills the space between an eccentric 20 and the associated cam 2, so that the eccentric 3 can not slip laterally.
  • Each helical spring 26 engages behind the associated stop 25 of the corresponding eccentric disc 20 at one end and the corresponding stop 24 of the cam disc 2 at the other end.
  • the curved surface 28 of the eccentric 3 is convex in cross section.
  • the climbing device is clamped in, this results in an almost punctiform contact of the eccentric 3 on the corresponding gap wall.
  • the eccentric disks 20 lie against one another over the entire surface. However, it is also conceivable that they lie against one another, for example, in the region of a respective circumferential web, so that there is a partially flat system.
  • the cams 2 each have openings 29, while on the other hand the eccentric disks 20 are provided with depressions 30, the wall thickness in the area of the depressions then logically being less than in the other areas of the eccentric disks 20.
  • Both the curved surfaces of the cams 2 and those of the eccentric 3 are, as can be seen very clearly in FIG direction of the respective curve surfaces. It is advantageous that the raised parts, which practically form profile teeth, correspond exactly to the section of the curved surface of the cams 2 or the eccentric 3 in the course of the curve of their surface. In addition, a notch effect is restricted, as occurs, for example, when teeth are loaded with sharp-edged profiles.

Landscapes

  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Pulmonology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Physical Education & Sports Medicine (AREA)
  • Emergency Lowering Means (AREA)
  • Road Signs Or Road Markings (AREA)
EP86116119A 1985-12-20 1986-11-21 Dispositif d'escalade Expired EP0226829B1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
AT86116119T ATE45887T1 (de) 1985-12-20 1986-11-21 Klettervorrichtung.

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE3545306 1985-12-20
DE3545306A DE3545306C1 (en) 1985-12-20 1985-12-20 Climbing apparatus
DE3616026 1986-05-13
DE19863616026 DE3616026A1 (de) 1986-05-13 1986-05-13 Klettervorrichtung

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0226829A1 true EP0226829A1 (fr) 1987-07-01
EP0226829B1 EP0226829B1 (fr) 1989-08-30

Family

ID=25839133

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP86116119A Expired EP0226829B1 (fr) 1985-12-20 1986-11-21 Dispositif d'escalade

Country Status (2)

Country Link
EP (1) EP0226829B1 (fr)
KR (1) KR870005659A (fr)

Cited By (11)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4923160A (en) * 1988-12-02 1990-05-08 Waggoner David L Camming means for climbing anchors
WO1991014106A1 (fr) * 1990-03-05 1991-09-19 Fraendberg Lars Dispositif d'ancrage
FR2756745A1 (fr) * 1996-12-09 1998-06-12 Benhamou Clement Coinceur, notamment pour alpiniste
WO2015088169A1 (fr) * 2013-12-13 2015-06-18 홍슬민 Came du type diamant pour l'escalade de rocher
EP2929916A1 (fr) * 2014-04-12 2015-10-14 Black Diamond Equipment AG Système de tige de came amélioré
US10463916B2 (en) * 2016-07-01 2019-11-05 Erick Matthew Davidson Active camming device
CN113679978A (zh) * 2021-08-23 2021-11-23 广东电网有限责任公司 一种偏心轮联动式锁扣和安全带装置
TWI840032B (zh) * 2022-12-20 2024-04-21 振鋒企業股份有限公司 孔內固定錨
EP4389243A1 (fr) * 2022-12-22 2024-06-26 Zedel Dispositif de blocage à came, procédé de fabrication d'un tel dispositif et procédé de remplacement d'un élément filaire d'un tel dispositif
US12343596B2 (en) 2022-12-22 2025-07-01 Zedel Camming clamping device and method for manufacturing one such device and method for replacing a wire element of one such device
US12533554B2 (en) 2022-12-22 2026-01-27 Zedel Camming clamping device and method for adjusting a wire element of a camming clamping device

Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE3416623A1 (de) * 1984-05-05 1985-11-07 Edelmann & Ridder GmbH & Co, 7972 Isny Klettervorrichtung fuer bergsteiger
DE3517741A1 (de) * 1985-05-17 1986-01-23 Stefan 4370 Marl Engers Kletterhilfe, insbesondere fuer bergsteiger

Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE3416623A1 (de) * 1984-05-05 1985-11-07 Edelmann & Ridder GmbH & Co, 7972 Isny Klettervorrichtung fuer bergsteiger
DE3517741A1 (de) * 1985-05-17 1986-01-23 Stefan 4370 Marl Engers Kletterhilfe, insbesondere fuer bergsteiger

Non-Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
SOVIET INVENTIONS ILLUSTRATED, Sektionen P,Q, Woche D11, 22. April 1981 DERWENT PUBLICATIONS LTD LONDON & SU-B-731 104 ( OLKHIN S A ) *

Cited By (16)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4923160A (en) * 1988-12-02 1990-05-08 Waggoner David L Camming means for climbing anchors
WO1991014106A1 (fr) * 1990-03-05 1991-09-19 Fraendberg Lars Dispositif d'ancrage
US5498108A (en) * 1990-03-05 1996-03-12 Fraendberg; Lars Anchoring device
FR2756745A1 (fr) * 1996-12-09 1998-06-12 Benhamou Clement Coinceur, notamment pour alpiniste
WO2015088169A1 (fr) * 2013-12-13 2015-06-18 홍슬민 Came du type diamant pour l'escalade de rocher
US9636544B2 (en) 2013-12-13 2017-05-02 Seul-Min Hong Diamond type cam for rock climbing
EP2929916A1 (fr) * 2014-04-12 2015-10-14 Black Diamond Equipment AG Système de tige de came amélioré
US10143892B2 (en) 2014-04-12 2018-12-04 Black Diamond Equipment, Ltd. Cam stem system
US10463916B2 (en) * 2016-07-01 2019-11-05 Erick Matthew Davidson Active camming device
CN113679978A (zh) * 2021-08-23 2021-11-23 广东电网有限责任公司 一种偏心轮联动式锁扣和安全带装置
TWI840032B (zh) * 2022-12-20 2024-04-21 振鋒企業股份有限公司 孔內固定錨
EP4389243A1 (fr) * 2022-12-22 2024-06-26 Zedel Dispositif de blocage à came, procédé de fabrication d'un tel dispositif et procédé de remplacement d'un élément filaire d'un tel dispositif
FR3144016A1 (fr) * 2022-12-22 2024-06-28 Zedel Dispositif de blocage à came, procédé de fabrication d’un tel dispositif et procédé de remplacement d’un élément filaire d’un tel dispositif
US12343596B2 (en) 2022-12-22 2025-07-01 Zedel Camming clamping device and method for manufacturing one such device and method for replacing a wire element of one such device
US12533554B2 (en) 2022-12-22 2026-01-27 Zedel Camming clamping device and method for adjusting a wire element of a camming clamping device
US12605595B2 (en) 2022-12-22 2026-04-21 Zedel Camming clamping device, method for manufacturing one such device and method for replacing a wire element of one such device

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
EP0226829B1 (fr) 1989-08-30
KR870005659A (ko) 1987-07-06

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