EP0367923B1 - Process for setting precious stones, especially brilliants - Google Patents

Abstract

With a process for setting precious stones, especially brilliants, in precious metals or their alloys, the precious stone being surrounded at least in regions by the metal forming the setting, a solution is to be produced, with which precious stones, especially brilliants, can be set mechanically, the mechanical preparations being reducible to a minimum, as a result of which the setting process can be speeded up. This is achieved in that the precious stone is pressed under pressure into a borehole, the diameter of which is slightly smaller than the external diameter of the precious stone to be set, and in that, after the outer edge regions of the precious stone have been driven into the borehole below the level of the surface of the setting metal, metal material is rubbed from above over the outer edge regions of the stone to be set. <IMAGE>

Description

The invention relates to a method for setting gemstones, in particular diamonds in precious metals or their alloys, wherein the gemstone is at least partially encompassed by the material forming the setting and the gemstone under pressure in a bore whose diameter is slightly smaller than the outer diameter of the gem to be set, as far as it is pressed in until the outer edge areas of the gem lie below the surface level of the setting metal.

A number of methods are known for setting gemstones, for example by inserting them into prepared crown-shaped setting elements which carry outwardly pointing cramps which, after setting the gemstone, grip around the outside thereof in regions, as described, for example, in US Pat. No. 2,533,870 is. An essentially mechanical way of preparing such crowns is shown in DE-A-32 37 490, a basically identical type of version is described in FR-A-2 579 428.

FR-A-2 428 990 shows a method suitable for the mechanical setting of gemstones, in which a cross-section has essentially U-shaped rail receiving grooves for edge areas of the cut gemstones. The gemstones are lined up one behind the other in this rail, the material weakened by the groove is then bent mechanically around the edge areas of the gemstones to be grasped. The version of a single stone in a similar design shows the old French patent specification 450 811.

DE-A-19 64 487 shows the setting of a gemstone into a prepared seat by means of a die, in which the upper slotted edge regions of the setting material are then also bent later via a die. US-A-4,761 shows a similar type of setting 865.

Compared to these known methods, the applicant's GB-A-2 079 140 or EP-A-0 221 248 shows a further developed method for setting gemstones in pipe sections. In these known methods, a gemstone is inserted into a pipe section, the inside diameter of which is slightly larger than the outside diameter of the gemstone. Now the pipe material is deformed in a tapering manner via a die, in such a way that it is squeezed around the edge regions of the gem to be gripped, as a result of which the stone is held securely and firmly in the pipe section.

When providing dials with, for example, diamonds, it is known to insert the diamonds to a certain extent in the edge region with resilient recesses and then to rub them. For example, EP-A-0 306 425 or generic DE-A-33 07 817. FR-A-1 506 317 shows the mechanical grinding of a stone resting on a bed in a bore.

There are areas of application in which tubular mounts are less suitable, for example mounts in receiving bores of ring rails or in particular in thin metal sheets. It is no longer possible to deform the die here. From DE-A-33 07 817 it is known to blast a gemstone into a specially designed bore in a dial in such a way that the edge metal resiliently wraps around the brilliant-cut diamond. However, it was not recognized there that the gem itself can represent a tool.

The object of the invention is therefore to provide a solution with which gemstones, in particular diamonds, can be set in a mechanical manner, the mechanical preparations being able to be reduced to a minimum and thus the setting process being accelerated.

With a method of the type mentioned at the outset, this object is achieved according to the invention in that the bed itself is formed by the gem and is rubbed from above the outer edge regions of the stone to be gripped by means of metal material.

With this method e.g. the preparation of a bed for the gemstone can be dispensed with, since it creates its own bed when it is pressed into the precious metal. In this case, material is driven from the inner wall of the borehole in front of the gem which is pressed in, in such a way that a support bead is formed which corresponds exactly to the outer contours of the individual gemstone. If material is rubbed over edge areas of the gemstone from above in the second step, the gemstone is completely fixed in its setting. It can be achieved that only very minimal edge areas are covered by the frame metal, so that optically practically the entire stone comes into effect.

In an embodiment, the invention provides that a plurality of holes are made in a jewelry sheet, the diameter of which is slightly smaller than the outside diameter of the stone to be grasped, then jointly driven into the holes of the jewelry sheet by means of a press die and the free upper areas of the outer Contour are subsequently rubbed. This means that a large number of gemstones can be grasped by machine, in particular in thin sheet metal, without the need for special gripping elements, for example small cylindrical additional frames.

US-A-2 181 573 and US-A-2 858 597 show a large number of gemstones according to a type of setting, as has already been described at the beginning of the prior art.

In an embodiment, the invention provides that gemstones of different types of cut, such as, for example, brilliant, baguette, navette and carré, are pressed into the jewelry metals and subsequently triturated.

Fig. 1

eine vereinfachte Schnittdarstellung einer Vorrichtung nach der Erfindung zum Fassen eines Einzelsteines vor Beginn des Absenkvorganges des Steines,

Fig. 2

in gleicher Darstellung die Vorrichtung nach Beendigung des Absenkvorganges sowie in

Fig. 3

den Schritt des Anreibens des Schmucksteines;

Fig. 4

die vereinfachte Schnittdarstellung einer Vorrichtung zur Fassung einer Mehrzahl von Schmucksteinen,

Fig. 5

die Position des Stempels oberhalb einer Mehrzahl von Schmucksteinen etwa in der Position gemäß Fig. 1 sowie in

Fig. 6

das Anreiben eines Einzelsteines etwa in der Darstellung gemäß Fig. 3.

The invention is explained below with reference to the drawing, for example. This shows in:

Fig. 1

FIG. 2 shows a simplified sectional illustration of a device according to the invention for gripping a single stone before the stone is lowered,

Fig. 2

in the same representation the device after completion of the lowering process and in

Fig. 3

the step of rubbing the gem;

Fig. 4

the simplified sectional view of a device for setting a plurality of gemstones,

Fig. 5

the position of the stamp above a plurality of gemstones approximately in the position shown in FIG. 1 and in

Fig. 6

the rubbing of a single stone approximately in the illustration according to FIG. 3.

The device shown in Figures 1 to 3 in different positions carries a jewelry metal 1 with a bore 2 in which a diamond 3 is to be used. The diamond 3 has a larger outer diameter "a" than the inner diameter "b" of the bore 2. A press ram 5 is provided opposite the plate of the diamond 3 denoted by 4, underneath the noble metal 1 there is indicated an otherwise not shown support 6 .

If the ram 5 is moved downwards according to arrow 7, it drives it into the borehole 2 after it has been placed on the table 4 of the diamond 3, the outer edge areas driving small amounts of precious metal material in front of it, in such a way that a circumferential support bed in the Metal imprints as indicated by the small arrows 8 in Fig. 2 is indicated. After the stamp 5 has been removed, material can now be rubbed from above with the aid of a reaming tool 9 over the upper region of the diamond. This material is designated 10 in FIG. 3. The Brillant 3 is now firmly seated in the socket.

4 to 6, the version of a plurality of brilliants 3a is shown. The functionally identical elements according to the arrangement according to FIGS. 1 to 3 are provided in FIGS. 4 to 6 with the same reference numbers with the lower case letter "a".

A noble metal sheet 1a is placed there on a base 6a, a drilling template 12 fixed by means of a pin 11 (not shown in more detail) is provided and boreholes 2a are made.

After the diamonds 3a according to FIG. 5 have been inserted into the boreholes 2a, a press ram 5a is lowered and the brilliants with their corresponding tables are lowered until the press ram 5a is placed on the surface of the sheet 1a.

This situation is shown in Fig. 6.

The gem 3a can be seen to have an outer diameter which is smaller than the inner diameter "c" of the bore 13 of document 6a. It is thus achieved that the gemstone 3a first drives material, designated 8a, when pressed, in order to form itself the lower region of its bed. When the lowering process has ended, material can be rubbed over from above in the manner shown in FIG. 6 in order to ensure the firm seating of the gemstone in the sheet 1a. It should be noted that the corresponding relationships of the metal beads 8a in FIG. 6 are exaggerated in order to make the essence of the invention clear.

Claims (3)

1. A method of setting precious stones, in particular brilliants, in precious metals or alloys thereof, wherein the precious stone (3, 3a) is embraced at least in a region-wise manner by the metal (1, 1a) forming the setting and wherein the precious stone is pressed under pressure into a bore (2, 2a) whose diameter is slightly smaller than the outside diameter (a) of the precious stone (3, 3a) to be set, until the outer edge regions of the precious stone lie beneath the surface level of the setting metal (1, 1a), characterised in that in that operation the bed itself is formed by the precious stone and that the outer edge regions of the stone to be set are rubbed against from above by means of metal material.
2. A method according to claim 1 characterised in that a plurality of holes (2a) whose diameter is slightly smaller than the outside diameter of the stone (3a) to be set are provided in a jewellery metal plate (1a), the stones are thereafter jointly driven into the holes in the jewellery metal plate by way of a pressing ram (5a) and the metal is then rubbed against the free upper regions of the outer contour.
3. A method according to claim 1 or claim 2 characterised in that precious stones cut in different ways such as for sample brilliant, baguette, navette and carré are pressed into the jewellery metals and the metals are then rubbed against same.

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