EP0421041A1 - Tricot à double face et procédé de fabrication - Google Patents
Tricot à double face et procédé de fabrication Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- EP0421041A1 EP0421041A1 EP89830429A EP89830429A EP0421041A1 EP 0421041 A1 EP0421041 A1 EP 0421041A1 EP 89830429 A EP89830429 A EP 89830429A EP 89830429 A EP89830429 A EP 89830429A EP 0421041 A1 EP0421041 A1 EP 0421041A1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- line
- face
- colour
- yarn
- needles
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Withdrawn
Links
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 51
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 title claims description 4
- 238000009940 knitting Methods 0.000 claims description 8
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 8
- 238000010586 diagram Methods 0.000 description 8
- 239000003086 colorant Substances 0.000 description 7
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 5
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 description 3
- 210000002268 wool Anatomy 0.000 description 2
- 239000004677 Nylon Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000009963 fulling Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229920001778 nylon Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920002994 synthetic fiber Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 description 1
Images
Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
- D04B1/12—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
- D04B1/126—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material with colour pattern, e.g. intarsia fabrics
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B9/00—Circular knitting machines with independently-movable needles
- D04B9/06—Circular knitting machines with independently-movable needles with needle cylinder and dial for ribbed goods
- D04B9/08—Circular knitting machines with independently-movable needles with needle cylinder and dial for ribbed goods for interlock goods
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
- D10B2403/01—Surface features
- D10B2403/011—Dissimilar front and back faces
- D10B2403/0114—Dissimilar front and back faces with one or more yarns appearing predominantly on one face, e.g. plated or paralleled yarns
Definitions
- the present invention refers to a double-faced weft knitted fabric.
- Knitted fabrics realized with two different yarns and having a structure made of one yarn predominantly on one face and a structure made of another yarn on the other face, are well known and widely used; for example, one yarn is cotton and the other can be wool or synthetic material.
- These double-faced fabrics allow the user to have a type of yarn with certain characteristics, for example cotton, in contact with his skin, and another yarn outside with different characteristics, for example wool.
- a known type of such knitted fabrics is produced on a circular knitting machine by means of a series of needles on the cylinder and a series of needles on the dial, the needles being off-set (therefore not adjacent); the needles of each series interloop the relevant yarn and each series of needles makes a line of jersey, the two lines facing each other; afterwards all the needles of both series intervene to form a connecting line or row with a connecting yarn, usually of nylon or the like, which forms tucks or loops on all the stitches.
- This type of fabric although it has two faces with different appearance, for example one face consisting of one material and the other of another material, does, however, have the following drawbacks; the connecting material is as much as 6-7% of the whole; in the case where the two yarns relating to the two faces are of different colours, the colour of each face shows through on the other face, since the fabric has a rib structure wherein the stitches of the dial are in an intermediate position with respect to the stitches of the cylinder; the fabric is relatively flat, heavy and not very elastic; it is impossible to have one face of the Jacquard-type since the fabric would turn out to be too thick and stiff; and therefore this type of fabric has never been realized with a Jacquard face.
- the aim of this invention is to avoid the above-mentioned drawbacks.
- An object of this invention is a knitted fabric consisting of two fabric structures, one forming one face and the other forming the other face, connected together with a first and a second connecting or weave line, the first connecting line forming loops or tucks on stitches of the first and second face alternately, and the second connecting line forming tucks on the stitches of the first and second face alternately, in the opposite way with respect to the first line.
- Another object of the present invention is a process for manufacturing a fabric as described above, comprising the following steps or phases: - positioning the dial needles and the cylinder needles of a circular knitting machine in an aligned, opposite position; - realizing a knitted fabric structure on one face and a knitted fabric structure on the other face; - realizing a first connecting or weave line for connecting or binding said fabric structures together, by engaging with a connecting yarn or thread one stitch on one side or face, the adjacent off-set stitch on the other face, the third adjacent off-set stitch on said one side and so on; - realizing a second connecting line for connecting said knitted lines, by engaging stitches on the first and on the second face, in alternate off-set positions, i.e. the positions not engaged by the first connecting line.
- the fabric structure on the one face and on the other face can be any known fabric structure, for instance jersey or even Jacquard.
- FIG. 1 a first type of double-faced knitted fabric according to this invention is shown, by means of its so-called “stitch diagram” (figure 1) and the so-called RGT (figure 2), both these system being well known to a man of the art.
- the fabric can be made on a circular knitting machine or on a flat knitting machine.
- the needles of the cylinder C or front needle bed or bar, are drawn below the double horizontal line, subdivided into two series, corresponding to the needles A and B drawn on the right in figure 6; the needles of the dial P are drawn above, subdivided into two series A′B′, as drawn on the left in figure 6.
- the difference between one series and the other lies in the position of the butt t of the needle, which allows one or the other series to intervene selectively during some working phases.
- the cylinder needles are positioned in an adjacent way (in other words, in a frontally corresponding position) to those of the dial, and vice versa.
- a second weave or connecting line (connecting run) is carried out with yarn 16, by means of alternate off-set needles on the dial and on the cylinder, and it is precisely (figure 12) the needles B, A′ which intervene, which did not intervene in the first connecting run.
- two connecting lines are made, separated by at least one stitch line and opposite to each other, since, while each one form tucks on alternate off-set stitches on one yarn and the other, the second connecting line engages the stitches in the positions not engaged by the first line.
- step 1 only the needles of cylinder C work (plain stitch, figure 8); in step 2 only the needles of the dial p work (purl/reverse stitch, figure 7); in step 3 (figure 9) needles A of the cylinder and needles B′ of the dial work; in step 4 all and only the cylinder needles work once more; in step 5 all and only the cylinder needles work and in step 6 cylinder needles B and dial needles A′ work.
- FIGS 3 and 5 a second fabric according to this invention is shown, one face of which has a two-coloured Jacquard structure according to the design shown in figure 3 (1st colour: white, 2nd colour: black), and the other face is worked in jersey, entirely in a third colour.
- the fabric is made on a circular knitting machine with a Jacquard mechanism for the cylinder needles.
- yarns of a 1st and 2nd colours and so forth use could also be made of yarn of the same colour but of a different type, for example brilliant-matt.
- the needles of the cylinder C are arranged aligned in a single series for the execution of such work, they are operated by a Jacquard mechanism (not shown as it is already per se known) and the needles of the dial P are arranged aligned and adjacent to those of the cylinder, but subdivided into two series as for the previous fabric.
- the cylinder needles carry out the two-colured Jacquard working and the dial needles carry out the purl/reverse stitch knitting.
- the cylinder works with yarn of the first colour
- the second course comprising the steps 4′, 5′ and 6′
- the cylinder works with yarn of the second colour. More particularly:
- step 7′ another course begins, similar to the first, with the exception of the differeces due to the fabric structure required on the Jacquarded face.
- each series of steps 1′-6′ comprises a connecting line or yarn (step 2′) which is worked with tucking by alternate opposite needles, and a second connecting yarn (step 5′) being tucked by the alternate opposite needles which did not operate with the first connecting yarn (step 2′).
- the first and the second connecting yarn are preferably separated by horizontal stitch lines.
- the cylinder needles are arranged aligned in a single series and the dial needles are divided into two series:
- step 11 ⁇ a new series of operations begins similar to the first, with the exception of the different fabric structure required by the Jacquard working.
Landscapes
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| EP89830429A EP0421041A1 (fr) | 1989-10-05 | 1989-10-05 | Tricot à double face et procédé de fabrication |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| EP89830429A EP0421041A1 (fr) | 1989-10-05 | 1989-10-05 | Tricot à double face et procédé de fabrication |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| EP0421041A1 true EP0421041A1 (fr) | 1991-04-10 |
Family
ID=8203240
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| EP89830429A Withdrawn EP0421041A1 (fr) | 1989-10-05 | 1989-10-05 | Tricot à double face et procédé de fabrication |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| EP (1) | EP0421041A1 (fr) |
Cited By (9)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US5395684A (en) * | 1991-01-23 | 1995-03-07 | Courtaulds Aerospace Limited | Thermal insulation materials |
| RU2163649C1 (ru) * | 2000-05-04 | 2001-02-27 | Московский государственный текстильный университет им. А.Н. Косыгина | Двухслойный трикотаж |
| CN102534975A (zh) * | 2010-12-29 | 2012-07-04 | 上海嘉乐股份有限公司 | 针织提花摇粒绒面料结构及其生产方法 |
| CN102534976A (zh) * | 2010-12-29 | 2012-07-04 | 上海嘉乐股份有限公司 | 印花双面摇粒绒编织结构及其生产方法 |
| CN103046216A (zh) * | 2011-10-17 | 2013-04-17 | 株式会社岛精机制作所 | 衬垫织品的编织方法及衬垫织品 |
| CN104452061A (zh) * | 2013-09-17 | 2015-03-25 | 株式会社福原精机制作所 | 降低破裂的织物、其编织方法及利用该编织方法的图案花纹设计系统 |
| CN106192179A (zh) * | 2016-08-26 | 2016-12-07 | 青岛雪达集团有限公司 | 一种醋青纤维功能性针织织物及织造方法 |
| CN110629376A (zh) * | 2019-09-23 | 2019-12-31 | 福建华峰新材料有限公司 | 一种双层混编三明治纬编布 |
| CN110965195A (zh) * | 2019-11-30 | 2020-04-07 | 广东德润纺织有限公司 | 一种美感舒适的纬编提花夹层双面面料及其生产工艺 |
Citations (6)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US1407343A (en) * | 1920-07-24 | 1922-02-21 | Frederic Conde | Knitted fabric |
| FR1290328A (fr) * | 1961-03-03 | 1962-04-13 | Tissus tricotés pour articles vestimentaires notamment | |
| DE2530806A1 (de) * | 1975-07-10 | 1977-01-27 | Erich Mak Sportbekleidungsfabr | Textiles flaechengebilde, insbesondere fuer sportbekleidung |
| DE2618316A1 (de) * | 1976-04-27 | 1977-11-10 | Steck Maschbau Otto | Einflaechige maschenware und verfahren zur herstellung dieser maschenware |
| FR2493358A1 (fr) * | 1980-11-05 | 1982-05-07 | Heurtefeu Et Cie Paul | Tricot et vetement tricotes brillants |
| FR2570935A1 (fr) * | 1984-10-02 | 1986-04-04 | Vyzk Ustav Pletarsky | Article tricote deux-couches " integre " avec une capacite d'absorption de sueur amelioree |
-
1989
- 1989-10-05 EP EP89830429A patent/EP0421041A1/fr not_active Withdrawn
Patent Citations (6)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US1407343A (en) * | 1920-07-24 | 1922-02-21 | Frederic Conde | Knitted fabric |
| FR1290328A (fr) * | 1961-03-03 | 1962-04-13 | Tissus tricotés pour articles vestimentaires notamment | |
| DE2530806A1 (de) * | 1975-07-10 | 1977-01-27 | Erich Mak Sportbekleidungsfabr | Textiles flaechengebilde, insbesondere fuer sportbekleidung |
| DE2618316A1 (de) * | 1976-04-27 | 1977-11-10 | Steck Maschbau Otto | Einflaechige maschenware und verfahren zur herstellung dieser maschenware |
| FR2493358A1 (fr) * | 1980-11-05 | 1982-05-07 | Heurtefeu Et Cie Paul | Tricot et vetement tricotes brillants |
| FR2570935A1 (fr) * | 1984-10-02 | 1986-04-04 | Vyzk Ustav Pletarsky | Article tricote deux-couches " integre " avec une capacite d'absorption de sueur amelioree |
Cited By (11)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US5395684A (en) * | 1991-01-23 | 1995-03-07 | Courtaulds Aerospace Limited | Thermal insulation materials |
| RU2163649C1 (ru) * | 2000-05-04 | 2001-02-27 | Московский государственный текстильный университет им. А.Н. Косыгина | Двухслойный трикотаж |
| CN102534975A (zh) * | 2010-12-29 | 2012-07-04 | 上海嘉乐股份有限公司 | 针织提花摇粒绒面料结构及其生产方法 |
| CN102534976A (zh) * | 2010-12-29 | 2012-07-04 | 上海嘉乐股份有限公司 | 印花双面摇粒绒编织结构及其生产方法 |
| CN103046216A (zh) * | 2011-10-17 | 2013-04-17 | 株式会社岛精机制作所 | 衬垫织品的编织方法及衬垫织品 |
| CN104452061A (zh) * | 2013-09-17 | 2015-03-25 | 株式会社福原精机制作所 | 降低破裂的织物、其编织方法及利用该编织方法的图案花纹设计系统 |
| EP2857566A1 (fr) * | 2013-09-17 | 2015-04-08 | Precision Fukuhara Works, Ltd. | Tricot comprenant des irrégularités reduites, un procédé pour son obtention et un dispositif pour la conception du tricot utilisant ledit procédé |
| CN106192179A (zh) * | 2016-08-26 | 2016-12-07 | 青岛雪达集团有限公司 | 一种醋青纤维功能性针织织物及织造方法 |
| CN106192179B (zh) * | 2016-08-26 | 2018-12-28 | 青岛雪达集团有限公司 | 一种醋青纤维功能性针织织物及织造方法 |
| CN110629376A (zh) * | 2019-09-23 | 2019-12-31 | 福建华峰新材料有限公司 | 一种双层混编三明治纬编布 |
| CN110965195A (zh) * | 2019-11-30 | 2020-04-07 | 广东德润纺织有限公司 | 一种美感舒适的纬编提花夹层双面面料及其生产工艺 |
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Legal Events
| Date | Code | Title | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| PUAI | Public reference made under article 153(3) epc to a published international application that has entered the european phase |
Free format text: ORIGINAL CODE: 0009012 |
|
| AK | Designated contracting states |
Kind code of ref document: A1 Designated state(s): AT BE CH DE ES FR GB GR IT LI LU NL SE |
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| STAA | Information on the status of an ep patent application or granted ep patent |
Free format text: STATUS: THE APPLICATION IS DEEMED TO BE WITHDRAWN |
|
| 18D | Application deemed to be withdrawn |
Effective date: 19911011 |