Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/04—Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
  • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
  • A61K8/447—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof containing sulfur
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur

Definitions

• the present invention relates to a new process for treating keratin materials, in particular the hair, with a view to obtaining permanent deformation of the latter, in particular in the form of permanent hair, the said process being in particular usable in the field of hair salons. hairdressing, beauty, cosmetics and the like, professionals.
• the most usual technique for obtaining permanent deformation of the hair consists, firstly, in opening the disulfide bonds -SS- of keratin (cystine) using a composition containing an agent reducing agent (reduction step) then, after having preferably rinsed the hair thus treated, in reconstituting said disulphide bonds in a second step by applying, to the hair previously put under tension (curlers and others), an oxidizing composition (step oxidation, also called fixation) so as to finally give the hair the desired shape.
• step oxidation also called fixation
• the reducing compositions which can be used for carrying out the first step of a perming operation generally contain, as reducing agents, sulfites, bisulfites or, preferably, thiols.
• reducing agents sulfites, bisulfites or, preferably, thiols.
• cysteine and its various derivatives cysteamine and its derivatives, thiolactic acid, thioglycolic acid and its esters, in particular glycerol monothioglycolate, and thioglycerol.
• thioglycolic acid is particularly effective, and thus constitutes the reference compound permanently for reducing the disulfide bonds of keratin; cysteine, on the other hand, produces a much weaker odor than that of thioglycolic acid or glycerol monothioglycolate, but the degree of crimp obtained is unfortunately lower and far from being completely satisfactory.
• the present invention aims in particular to solve the above problems.
• the present invention aims to propose a new treatment process suitable for the permanent deformation of keratin materials and which makes it possible to dispense with the implementation of the conventional steps of fixing by oxidizing agents.
• a composition containing cysteine and / or cysteamine and / or a salt thereof is applied to the keratin material to be treated, the pH of said composition being between 9 and 10 when the latter contains cysteine or between 8 and 9 when it contains cysteamine, the means (such as for example rollers, hair curlers and the like) necessary for the mechanical tensioning of the keratinous material being used before, during or after said application ,
• the method according to the invention is particularly suitable for obtaining permed hair.
• the method according to the invention has the main advantages, inter alia, of driving, and this without releasing unpleasant odors on the one hand and in a non-irritating manner for the skin and / or scalp on the other hand, to hair not discolored or substantially not discolored, mechanically resistant, and showing fine crimps.
• This last point is all the more unexpected and surprising since the "reducing" agents, and in particular cysteine, used in the context of the present invention are known to give insufficient crimps when they are used under conventional conditions. of implementing methods based on the reduction-oxidation operations mentioned above.
• the reducing agents used in the context of the process according to the invention are cysteine, of formula (1):
• cosmetically acceptable salts of the products (1) and (2) above there may be mentioned more particularly hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, citrates, acetates and sulfates.
• cysteine is used as the reducing agent.
• reducing agents are generally used in cosmetically acceptable compositions, which are moreover already well known per se in the existing state of the art of crimping formulations intended to carry out the first step (reduction) of a perm operation.
• surfactants of non-ionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric type and among these, mention may be made of alkylsulphates, alkylbenzenesulphates , alkylethersulfates, alkylsulfonates, quaternary ammonium salts, alkylbetaines, oxyethylenated alkylphenols, fatty acid alkanolamides, esters of oxyethylenated fatty acids as well as other nonionic surfactants of the hydroxypropylether type.
• the reducing composition contains at least one surfactant, this is generally present at a maximum concentration of 30% by weight, and preferably between 0.5 and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the reducing composition .
• the reducing composition may also contain a treating agent of cationic, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric nature.
• treating agents include those described in French patent applications Nos. 2,598,613 and 2,470,596. It is also possible to use, as treating agents, volatile or non-linear or cyclic silicones and their mixtures, the polydimethylsiloxanes, quaternized polyorganosiloxanes such as those described in French patent application No. 2,535,730, polyorganosiloxanes with aminoalkyl groups modified by alkoxycarbonyalkyl groups such as those described in US patent No.
• polyorganosiloxanes such as polydimethylsiloxane-polyoxyalkyl copolymer of the dimethicone copolyol type, a polydimethylsiloxane with stearoxy- (stearoximethicone) groupings, a polydimethylsiloxane-dialkylammonium acetate copolymer or a polydimethyl-siloxane polyalkylbetaine copolymer described in British patent application 2 n ° 2 197 modiloxylox 2 organoxides; by mercapto or mercaptoalkyl groups such as those described in French patent No. 1,530,369 and in European patent application No. 295,780, as well as silanes such as stearoxytrimethylsilane.
• polydimethylsiloxane-polyoxyalkyl copolymer of the dimethicone copolyol type a polydimethylsiloxane with stear
• the reducing composition may also contain other treating ingredients such as cationic polymers such as those used in the compositions of French patents No. 79.32078 (FR-A- 2 472 382) and 80.26421 (FR-A- 2 495 931), or also cationic polymers of the ionene type such as those used in the compositions of Luxembourg patent n ° 83703, basic amino acids (such as lysine, arginine) or acids (such as glutamic acid, aspartic acid) , peptides and their derivatives, protein hydrolysates, waxes, bulking and penetrating agents or making it possible to reinforce the effectiveness of the reducing agent such as the SÎO2 / PDMS (polydimethylsiloxane) mixture, dimethylisosorbitol, urea and its derivatives, pyrrolidone, N-alkylpyrrolidones, thiamorpholinone, alkylene glycol or dialkylene glycol alkyl ethers such as
• the pH of the reducing composition can be obtained and / or conventionally adjusted by adding either basifying agents, such as **, for example ammonia, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, isopropanolamine, propanediamine-1, 3, an alkali or ammonium carbonate or bicarbonate, an organic carbonate such as guanidine carbonate, or alternatively an alkali hydroxide, all these compounds can of course be taken alone or as a mixture, either of acidifying agents such as by for example hydrochloric acid, acetic acid, lactic acid or boric acid.
• the reducing agents mentioned above are generally present at a concentration which can be between 1 and 30% by weight, and preferably between 5 and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the reducing composition.
• the reducing composition may be in the form of a lotion, thickened or not, a cream, a gel, or any other suitable form.
• the reducing composition can also be of the exothermic type, that is to say causing a certain heating during application to the hair, which brings pleasure to the person who undergoes the perm or straightening.
• the reducing composition can also contain a solvent such as for example ethanol, propanol, or isopropanol or also glycerol at a maximum concentration of 20% relative to the total weight of the composition.
• a solvent such as for example ethanol, propanol, or isopropanol or also glycerol at a maximum concentration of 20% relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the vehicle for the compositions is preferably water or an aqueous-alcoholic solution of a lower alcohol such as ethanol, isopropanol or butanol.
• the reducing composition is preferably in the form of a thickened cream so as to keep the hair as straight as possible.
• These creams are produced in the form of "heavy" emulsions, for example based on glyceryl stearate, glycol stearate, self-emulsifying waxes, fatty alcohols, etc.
• liquids or gels containing thickening agents such as carboxyvinyl polymers or copolymers which "stick" the hair and keep it in the smooth position during the setting time.
• compositions can also be in so-called “self-neutralizing” or even “self-regulated” form and in this case, the reducing agents of general formula (1) and (2) are associated with at least one disulfide known for its use in a reducing composition for self-neutralizing perm.
• disulfides include dithioglycolic acid, dithioglycerol, cystamine, N, N'-diacetyl-cystamine, cystine, pantethine, and the disulphides of N- (mercapto-alkyl) ⁇ - hydroxyalkylamides described in European patent application EP 354 835, the disulphides of N-mono or N, N-dialkylmercapto-4 butyramides described in patent application EP 368 763, the disulphides of aminomercapto-alkylamides described in the application for EP 403 267, and the disulphides of the alkylaminomercaptoalkylamides described in patent application EP 432 000. These disulphides are generally present in a molar ratio of 0.5 to 2.5, and preferably 1 to 2, relative to the 'reducing agent (see US Patent 3,768,490).
• step (i) the compositions containing the reducing agent (s) of formulas (1) or (2) given above, or one of their salts, are then applied to the hair to be treated, which will preferably have been previously wet.
• This application can be carried out before, during or after the usual step of tensioning the hair in a form corresponding to the final shape desired for the latter (curls for example), this step being itself capable of being implemented by any means, mechanical in particular, suitable and known per se for keeping hair under tension, such as, for example, rollers, curlers and the like.
• the hair is subjected to a heat treatment, that is to say heating.
• the heating temperature is generally between 30 and 60 ° C. This heating allows the final degree of hair crimp to be adjusted as desired.
• this operation can be carried out using a hairdressing helmet, a hair dryer, an infrared ray dispenser, or any other conventional heating appliance.
• step (iii) the hair impregnated with a reducing composition is then rinsed thoroughly, generally with water.
• a fourth absolutely essential step of the treatment method according to the invention (step (iv)) the hair thus rinsed is then left in a rest or waiting phase for a time of between 10 and 60 min.
• this rest (or waiting) phase of the rinsed hair is preferably between 15 and 30 min. It is generally carried out by leaving the wet hair from the rinsing to stand in the open air (ambient temperature), but is preferably carried out at a higher temperature, in particular between 30 and 60 ° C. It will be noted that this step can be carried out until perfectly dry hair is obtained, the method according to the invention then being similar in this case (except in terms of the result) to the so-called "styling" methods.
• step (v) mechanical means (rollers, curlers and the like) are removed from the hair which kept the hair under tension and in the desired shape throughout the treatment. , whereby one can finally obtain a hair having for example beautiful permanent curls (in particular water resistant), and this without having to implement a chemical fixing step (oxidation).
• step (v) above retractal of the mechanical means for tensioning the hair
• step (v) above retractal of the mechanical means for tensioning the hair
• the removal of the rollers is carried out on already perfectly dry hair
• the implementation of a new rinsing step proves to be important if one wishes to obtain a fine crimp.
• the procedure is as follows: the above reducing composition is applied to coiled and damp hair (diameter of the rollers: 9 mm); then a plastic cap is placed on the hair (which makes it possible to avoid drying the hair during the next heating step) which is then installed under an infrared dispenser (40 ° C.) for 15 minutes; then remove the cap and rinse thoroughly and thoroughly with water; the hair is then left to stand on the rollers for 15 minutes; then the rollers are removed (unwinding); finally, rinse again with water.
• a wick n ° 2 is then obtained having too small crimps, the average radius of curvature of which is 6 cm.
• Example 3 The procedure is as in Example 3, except that the treatment which is repeated six times also comprises this time an additional fixing (oxidation) step carried out by means of a solution of hydrogen peroxide at 8 V and at pH 3 (acidity provided by addition of citric acid) which is left to act for 5 minutes, this additional step being inserted just between the first rinsing step and the unwinding step.
• an additional fixing (oxidation) step carried out by means of a solution of hydrogen peroxide at 8 V and at pH 3 (acidity provided by addition of citric acid) which is left to act for 5 minutes, this additional step being inserted just between the first rinsing step and the unwinding step.
• Example 4 The treatment which is indicated in Example 4 is repeated twice identically (addition of a fixing step using hydrogen peroxide).
• Example 1 The procedure for the treatment given in Example 1 is repeated five times identically and on the same hair.
• a strand No. 7 is thus finally obtained in which the rate of keratocysteic acid has been measured equal to 0.8% by weight, that is to say a value strictly equal to the initial rate of keratocysteic acid in the hair. departure (before any treatment).
• a reducing composition containing 9.2 g of thioglycolic acid brought to pH 8 is applied to the coiled hair (roller diameter: 9 mm), 5 by adding ammonia; we put a plastic cap; we wait 15 minutes; remove the cap and then rinse with water; applying a fixing composition (oxidation) as described in Example 4-; leave to act for 5 minutes; the rollers are removed and finally the hair is rinsed again with water.
• the procedure is as in Example 9, except that the waiting period of 15 min (step (iv) of the method according to the invention) is carried out under an infrared heat dispenser keeping the hair at an average temperature about 45 ° C.
• the first waiting phase (just after the application of the reducing composition) is carried out for 20 min under the heat dispenser
• Example 1 The procedure is as in Example 11, except that the first exposure time is 10 minutes and the second exposure time is 20 minutes. As in Example 1, hair is obtained having a fine crimp.
• the operating mode here is as follows: 1) it is wound on hollow rollers (20 mm in diameter) and sufficiently ventilated to allow air to pass from the inside to the outside of the rollers, hair previously washed and still wet, 2) the composition given in Example 1 is applied to the coiled hair (100 ml of lotion per 100 g of hair), 3) a plastic cap is placed on the hair, 4) the whole is placed under a dispenser infrared heat (45 ° C), 5) leave to stand under the heat dispenser for 15 minutes, 6) remove the dispenser and then the cap, 7) rinse with water, 8) place the assembly under a hot air dispenser (50 ° C), 9) the assembly is left to stand until the hair has completely dried, 10) the rollers are removed, 11) a brush is applied to replace the hair.

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• 1993
  • 1993-07-16 FR FR9308750A patent/FR2707486B1/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
• 1994
  • 1994-07-06 EP EP19940921690 patent/EP0660700A4/de not_active Ceased
  • 1994-07-06 JP JP7504366A patent/JP2554036B2/ja not_active Expired - Fee Related
  • 1994-07-06 WO PCT/FR1994/000832 patent/WO1995002391A1/fr not_active Ceased
• 1997
  • 1997-10-21 US US08/955,283 patent/US5989534A/en not_active Expired - Fee Related

Non-Patent Citations (1)

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