Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K36/00—Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
  • A61K36/18—Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
  • A61K36/185—Magnoliopsida (dicotyledons)
  • A61K36/23—Apiaceae or Umbelliferae (Carrot family), e.g. dill, chervil, coriander or cumin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K36/00—Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
  • A61K36/18—Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
  • A61K36/185—Magnoliopsida (dicotyledons)
  • A61K36/77—Sapindaceae (Soapberry family), e.g. lychee or soapberry
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K36/00—Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
  • A61K36/18—Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
  • A61K36/88—Liliopsida (monocotyledons)
  • A61K36/899—Poaceae or Gramineae (Grass family), e.g. bamboo, corn or sugar cane
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
  • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
  • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
  • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
  • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
  • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
  • A61K8/9794—Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/70—Biological properties of the composition as a whole
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
  • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
  • A61Q1/10—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/007—Preparations for dry skin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q7/00—Preparations for affecting hair growth

Definitions

• Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition containing an extract of plants of the genus Filicium and use of said extract to stimulate the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans
• the invention essentially relates to a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition, in particular a dermatological composition, comprising as active ingredient an extract of plants of the genus Filicium, in particular of the species Filicium decipiens.
• the invention also relates to a use of such an extract for the manufacture of a cosmetic or pharmaceutical and in particular dermatological composition having various activities and a method of cosmetic treatment. It also relates to a use of the same extract in cell culture media, in particular, fibroblast and keratinocyte culture media.
• Plants of the genus Filicium belong to the Sapindaceae family.
• the plants of the species Filicium decipiens are alternate-leaf trees, up to 25 meters tall, which are found mainly in southern hemisphere Africa, in particular in South Africa and Africa, and also in tropical Asia, especially in India.
• extracts of the plant of the genus Filicium in particular extracts of plants of the species Filicium decipiens, are of valuable interest in cosmetics, in pharmacy, in particular in dermatology, by the property of stimulating the production of glycosaminoglycans by fibroblasts and keratinocytes, and in particular fibroblasts of the dermis, in particular of the human dermis, and human keratinocytes.
• proteoglycans are complex macromolecules formed of a protein part onto which are grafted by covalent bonds polymers of disaccharides called glycosaminoglycans (GAG).
• GAG glycosaminoglycans
• GAGs the disaccharide unit of GAGs is formed of a hexosamine (D-glucosamine or D-galactosamine) which is quite often sulfated alternating with a uronic acid (D-glucuronic or L-iduro ⁇ ic).
• the GAG chains most frequently encountered in the skin are hyaluronic acid, chondroitins-4 and -6 sulfate, dermatan sulfate and in small quantities heparin and heparan sulfate. Only hyaluronic acid is not synthesized in association with a central protein.
• proteoglycans are present in particular in all mammalian tissues, including in the skin and its appendices (JR COUCHMAN, J. Invest. Dermatol. 1993 Jul. 101 (1 Suppl) 60S-64S). It is now recognized that proteoglycans contribute, by various processes, to the growth, preservation and repair of tissues. Some proteoglycans have been shown to mediate cell adhesion and transmembrane communication, while others interact with other structural elements of the extracellular matrix. As mentioned above, proteoglycans consist of a central protein to which one or more glycosaminoglycan chains are covalently linked.
• glycosaminoglycans are present at the dermal level, participating in the composition of the extracellular matrix and have been found linked to certain sites of collagen fibers, as described by JE SCOTT in Int. J. Biol. Macromol., 1991, 13, pages 157-161. They have also been identified between the keratinocytes at the level of the epidermis as described by JG HAGGERTY et al. in the journal J. Invest. Dermatol., 1992, 99, pages 374-380, 99 pages 374-380. Finally, glycosaminoglycans have been found in the extracellular matrix of the dermal papilla of the hair follicle. Their quantity varies depending on the hair cycle.
• proteoglycans and glycosaminoglycans of the hair follicles reference may be made in particular to the publication by JR COUCHMAN cited above, and to that of M. TAYLOR et al., "Glycosaminoglycan synthesis by cultured human hair follicle dermal papilla cells: comparison with non-follicular dermal fibroblasts ", Brit. J. Dermatol. 1992 (May) 126 (5) 479-84.
• minoxidil a well-known substance with some activity on hair growth and regrowth, has been shown to stimulate the biosynthesis of glycosaminoglycans (Y. MORI et al., Ann. NY Acad. Sci., 1991 (Dec. 26) 642 473-5).
• GAGs by their primary property of associating strongly with water molecules and forming gels, ensure hydration of the dermis and epidermis.
• Well-hydrated skin guarantees good appearance, a satisfactory physiological and functional state, with in particular good mechanical properties.
• the decrease in GAGs during skin aging has been shown by many authors (such as, for example: SMITH et al. In J. Invest. Dermatol., 1962, 39, pages 347-350; or FLEISCHMAJER et al. In Biochim Biophys Acta, 1972, 279, pages 265-275; or by LONGAS et al. In Carbohydr. Res., 1987, 159, pages 127-136).
• glycosaminoglycans it is therefore interesting to stimulate the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans in order in particular to restore to a skin having a deficiency in terms of its mechanical properties or its water barrier, such as dehydrated or aged skin, the qualities and properties of a skin. normal and young, or to prevent or treat hair growth disorders, or to restore or strengthen the shine and suppleness of a hair.
• the main object of the present invention is to solve the new technical problem consisting in providing a solution making it possible to stimulate the production of glycosaminoglycans by skin cells, in particular human skin cells, such as fibroblasts or keratinocytes, production which is particularly valuable in the context of the manufacture of cosmetic or pharmaceutical and especially dermatological treatment products.
• the present invention also aims to solve the new technical problem consisting in the supply of a solution making it possible to achieve good hydration of the cutaneous tissue including the skin and the mucous membranes, an improvement in the mechanical qualities of the skin and the integuments, a beautification of the hair, as well as prevention or treatment of hair growth disorders, in a simple, reliable and inexpensive manner, usable on an industrial cosmetic and pharmaceutical scale.
• the present invention provides a cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises, as active ingredient, an extract of plants of the genus Filicium, in particular of the species Filicium decipiens.
• the invention provides a pharmaceutical composition, in particular a dermatological composition, for topical use, characterized in that it comprises, as active ingredient, an extract of plants of the genus Filicium, in particular of the species Filicium decipiens.
• this composition comprises from 0.0001% to 3% by weight, and in particular from 0.001% to 1% by weight, of the abovementioned extract of Filicium relative to the total weight of the final composition.
• the composition is formulated for a topical application, in particular a topical cutaneous application including the skin and the mucous membranes, for producing cosmetic or dermatological care products or treating makeup products, such as mascaras or lipsticks.
• this composition is characterized in that it further comprises at least one active principle, in particular chosen from the group consisting of retinoids, humectants or moisturizers, vitamins , ceramides, substances that promote collagen synthesis and amino acids.
• the composition is advantageously characterized in that the aforementioned retinoid is chosen from retinoic acid and its salts and esters, retinaldehyde, and retinol and its esters, such as propionate, palmitate, acetate; the above-mentioned humectant or moisturizing agent is chosen from glycerol, a polyethylene glycol and hyaluronic acid; the aforementioned vitamin is chosen from vitamin A, vitamin C and its derivatives, in particular its sodium or magnesium salts, vitamin E, vitamin PP, and the vitamins of group B in particular B6 and B12; the substance promoting the synthesis of collagen is chosen from an extract of centella asiatica, madecassoside, madecassic acid, asian acid and asiaticoside; and the amino acid is chosen from serine, threonine, leucine, proline and hydroxyproline.
• the aforementioned retinoid is chosen from retinoic acid and its salts and esters, retinalde
• the cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition in particular dermatological composition according to the invention, also comprises at least one other active substance, in one effective concentration, chosen from quinine or its derivatives; a rubefiant such as methyl nicotinate; a culture supernatant of papilla fibroblasts, as described in document EP-A-272920; a keratin hydrolyzate; a trace element such as zinc, selenium, copper; a bisbenzylisoquinole alkaloid such as oxyacanthine or cepharanthin; a 5- ⁇ -reductase inhibitor such as progesterone; cyproterone acetate, minoxidil, azelaic acid and its derivatives; a 4-methyl-4-azasteroid, in particular 17- ⁇ -N, N-diethylcarbamoyl-4-methyl-4-aza-5- ⁇ -androstan-3-on ⁇ ; or an extract from Seren
• the above-mentioned extract of Filicium is an extract obtained by extraction with a polar solvent or a mixture of polar solvents.
• a polar solvent or a mixture of polar solvents Preferably, an alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol or butylene glycol, or a mixture of these alcohols or a hydroalcoholic mixture, will be used.
• conventional extraction procedures well known to those skilled in the art can be used.
• the extraction can be carried out on the ground material, preferably a root bark powder obtained by grinding, which is introduced into the extraction solvent, preferably consisting of the solvent or the mixture of solvents. polar above.
• the extraction can be repeated several times until the material is exhausted, according to methods well known to those skilled in the art.
• the extraction can be carried out at ambient temperature, or hot and in particular at reflux of the solvent.
• the proportion by weight between the solvent and the material to be extracted can vary within wide limits and for example be between 1: 1 and 10: 1.
• the above-mentioned extract of Filicium is an extract enriched in sapo ⁇ ines.
• the enrichment of the extract with saponins can be obtained by any process known to those skilled in the art, in particular by precipitation of the extract by means of acetone in an alcoholic medium, preferably in a methanolic medium. .
• the invention also relates to the use of an extract of plants of the genus Filicium, in particular of the species Filicium decipiens, said extract preferably being incorporated in a cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable excipient, for the preparation of '' a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition and in particular a dermatological composition, in particular having an activity of stimulating the production of glycosaminoglycans in the skin and the mucous membranes, in particular in the dermis and in the epidermis, promoting water retention in the skin, presenting a hydrating activity, a tightening effect attenuating the cutaneous relief and the superficial fine lines, contributing to reinforce the barrier function of the skin, intended in particular for the prevention or the treatment of the dry or dehydrated skins, with the treatment of the effects of cutaneous aging, preventing and fighting the appearance of stretch marks, improving appearance of the skin and hair, prevention and treatment of hair growth disorders.
• compositions of the invention are intended for the prevention or treatment of dry or dehydrated skin and / or for the prevention and the fight against the appearance of stretch marks and / or the prevention and treatment of hair disorders.
• the present invention also covers a cosmetic treatment process for the skin, mucous membranes, such as the lips, or integuments, in particular the hair, characterized in that it comprises topical application to the areas of the skin, mucous membranes or scalp to be treated, composition containing an extract of plants of the genus Filicium, in particular of the species Filicium decipiens, present in said composition at a cosmetically effective concentration.
• the concentration of the abovementioned plant extract in the composition is between 0.0001% and 3% by weight, in particular between 0.001% and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition, said extract being preferably incorporated in a cosmetically acceptable excipient.
• the present invention also covers a method of therapeutic treatment of the skin, mucous membranes, or integuments, in particular the hair, characterized in that it comprises topical application to the areas of the skin. , mucous membranes or scalp to be treated with a therapeutically effective amount of an extract of plants of the genus Filicium, in particular of the species Filicium decipiens.
• the invention is based on the unexpected discovery that an extract of plants of the genus Filicium stimulates the production of glycosaminoglycans by skin cells, in particular by fibroblasts and keratinocytes, thus being particularly useful for the manufacture of cosmetic or pharmaceutical and especially dermatological treatment products.
• the invention also relates to the use of an extract of plants of the genus Filicium in particular of the species Filicium decipiens as cosmetic agent.
• This agent makes it possible in particular to stimulate the production of glycosaminoglycans by fibroblasts and keratinocytes, in particular fibroblasts of the dermis, in particular of the human dermis and human keratinocytes. It can be incorporated into a cosmetic composition which promotes water retention in the skin and / or has a hydrating activity and / or a tightening effect attenuating the skin relief and surface fine lines, helping to reinforce the barrier function of the skin.
• composition can also be intended for the prevention or treatment of dry or dehydrated skin and / or for the prevention and the fight against the appearance of stretch marks.
• This same agent can also be used as a therapeutic agent, especially in dermatology.
• various forms of formulation can be produced.
• one of the most used forms is a topical form suitable for application to the skin tissue including the skin and the external or internal mucous membranes.
• Appropriate topical formulations include without limitation, emulsions, creams, milks, balms, gels, lotions, ova, as well as treating makeup compositions such as mascaras, lipsticks, these various types of formulation being well known to those skilled in the art.
• the present invention also relates to a method for treating cells, in particular fibroblasts or keratinocytes, in culture, by an effective concentration of a plant extract of the genus Filicium, in particular of the species Filicium decipiens to stimulate the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans.
• a skin is obtained by the process of the invention. or a very good quality artificial dermis, particularly with regard to the biomechanical properties.
• the cell culture is treated with a plant extract of the genus Filicium, in particular of the species Filicium decipiens, at a concentration between 0.3 ⁇ g / ml and 30 ⁇ g / ml of culture medium.
• the culture medium also comprises one or more of the following substances: glucosamine, galactosamine, L-proline and 4-hydroxy-L-proline, said substances possibly being each present at a concentration between 2 and 10 mM, or alternatively, the culture medium can contain ascorbic acid or one of its derivatives at a non-cytotoxic concentration, in particular between 0.001 mM and 0.5 mM.
• Plant root bark has been harvested in South Africa. 54 g of this root bark, previously dried and powdered for 1 hour 30 minutes, are macerated in 500 ml of methanol. It is brought to the boil for 3 hours then after cooling it is filtered. The filtrate (8.3 g) is dried, taken up in 100 ml of methanol and then 500 ml of acetone are added to the methanolic solution. A precipitate is formed which is separated by filtration. The precipitate is dried over a dehydrating solid such as potash (0.847 g). This precipitate is then purified by dialysis for 4 days against 5 ml of water, then lyophilized. 242 mg of a lyophilized extract according to the invention, called extract II, enriched in saponins, are thus obtained which will then be used in the tests described below.
• extract II a lyophilized extract according to the invention
• Human dermis fibroblasts are used and incubated with tritiated glucosamine with or without the product to be tested. Then, on the culture supernatants, the protein part of the proteoglycans formed to isolate the GAGs (having incorporated the radiolabelled glucosamine) which is precipitated by cetylpyridinium chloride is separated by enzymatic hydrolysis, by means of pronase. abbreviated as CPC. The radioactivity of the precipitates of the treated cultures and of the control cultures is then counted, which is proportional to the amount of GAG synthesized.
• Fibroblasts from a breast plasty of a 35-year-old woman are prepared from the microdissected dermis, as previously described by RI FRESHNEY in the book "Culture of Animal Cells; a manual of basic technique” edited by AR LISS, New York, 1983, pages 104-106. Inoculating culture wells of a multiwell box at a rate of 10 000 per well and fibroblasts were cultured for 24 h at 37 ° C in a culture medium C 199 E (Gibco) containing 10% fetal calf serum .
• the medium is removed and replaced with 100 microliters of E 199 C medium without serum and containing the product to be tested, namely, in this case, extract II according to the invention, dissolved in water, or the same amount of water in the case of "control" cultures, and 4 ⁇ Ci of tritiated glucosamine, commercially available under the reference TRK 398 from Amersham, France. Incubated 48 h at 37 ° C. The supernatants are then grouped by two and transferred to Eppendorf screw tubes. Each tube therefore contains supernatant from the culture of an initial amount of 20,000 cells.
• XTT tetrazolium salt test
• the amount of GAG secreted by the cells in culture is proportional to the radioactivity observed.
• the activity results of extract II according to the invention are presented in the table below. The concentrations of the extract have been chosen so that they do not modify the cell viability.
• A represents the activity expressed as a percentage
• q ⁇ represents the amount of radioactive GAG secreted in the control cultures, expressed in cpm
• q represents the amount of radioactive GAG secreted in the cultures treated with the extract according to the invention, expressed in cpm.
• the extracts of the invention obtained from the plant of the genus Filicium, constitute valuable active ingredients for the manufacture of cosmetic or pharmaceutical, especially dermatological, treatment products.
• This gel can be used twice a day for 3 weeks on the face and on the body. After treatment, the skin regains normal hydration, its elasticity and its radiance.
• This cream has the following composition: - Bark extract 12 0.1 g
• the extracts of bark 12 and of centella asiatica are dissolved in the excipient, then the other components are added until the whole is homogeneous.
• a composition having the following ingredients:
• the extracts II and witch hazel are dissolved in the emulsified excipient, then the other ingredients are added until the whole is homogeneous.
• a cream is thus obtained which can be used locally, by topical application by massaging until complete penetration.
• This treatment which can be extended for several weeks, makes it possible to effectively prevent and combat the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
• Anti-drying mascara A composition comprising the following active ingredients is used:
• This mascara is prepared according to conventional techniques of those skilled in the art, the extract II is introduced into the aqueous phase until complete dissolution.
• Treating lip balm A composition is prepared comprising the following active ingredients:
• This balm is prepared in a conventional manner according to the rules of the art, extract II is included in the aqueous phase. This balm applied to the lips allows good hydration of the lips.
• Anti-hair loss hair lotion A lotion is prepared comprising the following active ingredients:
• This lotion is used in massages of the scalp, preferably in the morning. By acting on the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans at the level of the papilla of the hair follicle, this lotion contributes to delay hair loss.
• a lotion is prepared having the same composition as that described in Example 9, except that it also contains 0.1 g of cepharanthin per 100 g of final composition.
• Example 11 Treating Shampoo A shampoo composition is prepared comprising the following ingredients:
• the invention includes all the means constituting technical equivalents of the means described as well as their various combinations.
• the invention covers any characteristic which appears to be new with respect to any state of the art, from the description and the claims taken as a whole.

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• 1995
  • 1995-06-27 FR FR9507708A patent/FR2735982B1/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
• 1996
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