EP0966262B1 - Agents de soin pour la peau - Google Patents

Agents de soin pour la peau Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0966262B1
EP0966262B1 EP98905365A EP98905365A EP0966262B1 EP 0966262 B1 EP0966262 B1 EP 0966262B1 EP 98905365 A EP98905365 A EP 98905365A EP 98905365 A EP98905365 A EP 98905365A EP 0966262 B1 EP0966262 B1 EP 0966262B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
oil
cosmetic compositions
contain
skin
weight
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Revoked
Application number
EP98905365A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP0966262A1 (fr
Inventor
Marianne Waldmann-Laue
Pascal Bordat
Gabriele Munk
Claudia Jassoy
Viola Hörner
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Original Assignee
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Family has litigation
First worldwide family litigation filed litigation Critical https://patents.darts-ip.com/?family=7819618&utm_source=google_patent&utm_medium=platform_link&utm_campaign=public_patent_search&patent=EP0966262(B1) "Global patent litigation dataset” by Darts-ip is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.
Application filed by Henkel AG and Co KGaA filed Critical Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Publication of EP0966262A1 publication Critical patent/EP0966262A1/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP0966262B1 publication Critical patent/EP0966262B1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Revoked legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/005—Preparations for sensitive skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof

Definitions

  • the invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological preparations for care sensitive skin in the form of an emulsion or cream, due to particular selected fat components, emulsifiers and active ingredients not just a small one Show skin irritation, but also increase the vitality of the skin tissue.
  • FR-A-2 652 742 was also the anti-allergic Effects of adding L- ⁇ -fucose, L-rhamnose and L-xylose to known cosmetic and dermatological compositions.
  • the invention therefore relates to improved compositions for care sensitive skin in the form of an emulsion or cream, which as an oil or Fat components of natural oils and fats or waxes or esters of linear fatty acids with 8 to 22 carbon atoms and as emulsifiers, phospholipids, sterols, alkyl (oligo) glycosides, Fatty acid esters of sugars, sugar alcohols or polyglycerol or Mixtures thereof and as active ingredients deoxy sugar or natural substances containing them contain.
  • the L (-) - fucose and the L (+) - rhamnose understood.
  • natural substances containing such deoxy sugar units are also suitable included, e.g. Polysaccharides or plant glycosides.
  • the fucose comes e.g. as a polysaccharide building block in one of the sea brown algae (fucus vesiculosus) isolated polysaccharide gel
  • rhamnose is a polysaccharide building block of arabic acid in gum arabic. Fucose and rhamnose are preferred or a mixture thereof in amounts of 0.1-10% by weight in the composition contain.
  • Suitable carriers for these active substances are emulsions or creams which are suitable for Active ingredients in a fine distribution and without skin-irritating side effects on the skin applied. It has surprisingly been found that conventional hydrocarbons, e.g. Paraffin oils, petroleum jelly (petrolatum) or silicones are less suitable for this purpose are and therefore only in minor amounts in the preparations according to the invention should be included.
  • conventional hydrocarbons e.g. Paraffin oils, petroleum jelly (petrolatum) or silicones are less suitable for this purpose are and therefore only in minor amounts in the preparations according to the invention should be included.
  • oils or fat phase should rather consist of natural oils, fats and Grow or consist of esters of linear fatty acids with 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • suitable oils or fats are e.g. Olive oil, sunflower oil, refined soybean oil, Palm oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, almond oil, borage oil, evening primrose oil, jojoba oil, coconut oil, Shea butter, sperm oil, claw oil, beef tallow and lard.
  • suitable Esters of linear fatty acids with 8-22 C atoms e.g. Oleyl oleate, olerlerucate.
  • compositions according to the invention particularly preferably contain oil or Finished component shea butter (karite fat) from the seeds of the Butyrospermum plant Parkii. Almond oil. Evening primrose oil or a caprylic and capric acid triglyceride or Mixtures of these fatty substances in an amount of 10 - 30 wt .-% of Composition.
  • the oil or fat phase should not exceed 5% by weight Contain hydrocarbons or silicone oils.
  • Phospholipids suitable as emulsifiers are, above all, the glucose phospholipids which e.g. as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from e.g. Egg yolk or plant seeds (e.g. Soybeans).
  • Sterols are understood to be a group of steroids that are attached to the C atom 3 of the steroid structure carry a hydroxyl group and both from animal tissue (zoosterols) as well as from vegetable fats (phytosterols).
  • zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol.
  • suitable phytosterols are Ergosterin, Stigmasterin and Sitosterin. Mushrooms and yeasts also become sterols so-called mycosterols, isolated.
  • Alkyl (oligo) glycosides are compounds of the general formula RO (G) x , in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, G is a glycoside residue, for example the glucoside residue derived from glucose or one derived from mannose or fructose, for example Is mannoside or fructoside and x whose degree of oligomerization preferably has a value between 1 and 2.
  • Such alkyl glycosides are commercially available, for example, under the Plantaren® or Plantacare® trademark.
  • Mixtures of alkyl (oligo) glucosides and fatty alcohols are commercially available, for example, under the name Montanov® 68 or Emulgade® PL 68/50.
  • Fatty acid esters of sugars, sugar alcohols such as sorbitol and of polyglycerols are also known and commercially available emulsifiers.
  • compositions according to the invention preferably contain no or no more as 1% by weight of sulfate or sulfonate surfactants.
  • sulfate or sulfonate surfactants preferably contain no or no more as 1% by weight.
  • the oil and fat phase still contain other lipid substances which stabilize the compositions or to care for the skin.
  • suitable lipid substances are e.g. Tocopherols (vitamin E) or ceramides.
  • Ceramides include N-acylsphingosine (fatty acid amides of Sphingosine) or synthetic analogues of such lipids (so-called pseudo-ceramides) understood that significantly improve the water holding capacity of the Straturn corneum.
  • compositions according to the invention can all known and in such preparations contain customary auxiliaries and additives that improve the aesthetic. application technology and cosmetic properties are known.
  • Such substances are e.g. natural or synthetic hydrocolloids, e.g. Cellulose derivatives, vegetable dough, gelatin, biopolymers or synthetic, water-soluble polymers for thickening the aqueous phase, layered silicates, soaps, e.g. Calcium, magnesium or zinc soaps to thicken the oil phase, fragrances, Dyes, pigments, preservatives, complexing agents, polyols such as e.g. Propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, sorbitol or glycerin and cosmetic active ingredients such as e.g. Allantoin, bisabolol, extracts from vegetable, animal tissue or from Microorganisms (e.g. yeast extracts), vitamins or proteins.
  • natural or synthetic hydrocolloids e.g. Cellulose derivatives, vegetable dough, gelatin, biopolymers
  • a natural or synthetic hydrocolloid is preferred in the aqueous phase an amount of 0.01 to 5 wt .-% of the composition.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are produced in the usual way, by the lipid-soluble substances with the oil or fat phase to clear melt heated and homogenized and the water-soluble components in the Water dissolves and the heated aqueous phase is emulsified into the fat phase with stirring.
  • the emulsification can be carried out with the aid of homogenizers.
  • the deoxy sugar is incorporated either in the oil phase or in the finished one Emulsion.
  • fragrances and temperature-sensitive active ingredients or plant extracts are preferably subsequently incorporated into the emulsion.
  • test method and the evaluation of the results are based on the Duhring Chamber Test known from the literature (cf. I. Tausch et al, Perfumery and Cosmetics, 76. (1/96) pp. 28 - 31).
  • the samples fixed with the help of aluminum chambers on the backs of 20 subjects were tested in the DAPPT over a first exposure time of 48 hours and a second immediately subsequent exposure time of 72 hours.
  • the change in skin caused by the samples was then assessed visually over a further 72 hours.
  • a distinction was made between erythema, scaling, edema and fissure.
  • the test has an erythema score of 1 to 2 and showed a total stimulus score of 4 to 5, the tolerance could be increased by adding a Active ingredient complex according to recipe 5 (in which the rest is 100% by weight from the Comparison cream exists) can be improved by 85% in terms of stimulus scores.
  • a three-dimensional skin model was used, which consists of a culture of human skin cells (Skin 2 from Advanced Tissue Sciences, La Jolla, CA, USA, see Alternative Methods in Toxicology, Vol. 10, B III-4, pages 121 - 131).
  • the creams to be tested were applied to a filter paper, this then for 2 Hours with the cream side placed on the surface of the skin culture so that it could act.
  • the vitality of the skin cultures was checked using the vital dye Alamar blue. Living cells reduce the dye molecule, which results in one Dye envelope, the intensity of which was measured photometrically. The more vital the Crops, the higher the rate of reduction. The metabolic activity was over the measurement of glucose consumption is determined. Glucose is the main nutrient for that Skin cells (see Toxic. In Vitro. Vol. 9, No. 3, pages 257-266, Elsevier Science Ltd., 1995).
  • the following table shows the amount of interleukin la and prostaglandin in% by weight based on the amount of mediators measured on the untreated sample 24 hours after the irritation treatment (100% value). Soothing effect recipe untreated cortisone 3 Prostaglandin [%] after 24 hours 100 39.8 120 after 48 hours 62 25.0 26.2 Interleukin 1a [%] after 24 hours 100 69.5 66.2 after 48 hours 26.5 25.8 14.6

Landscapes

  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)
  • Medicinal Preparation (AREA)
  • Bakery Products And Manufacturing Methods Therefor (AREA)
  • Pharmaceuticals Containing Other Organic And Inorganic Compounds (AREA)
  • Cereal-Derived Products (AREA)

Claims (7)

  1. Composition cosmétique destinée aux soins de la peau sensible sous forme d'une émulsion ou d'une crème,
    caractérisée en ce qu'
    elles renferme comme composants huileux ou gras, des huiles, des matières grasses ou des cires ou des esters d'acide gras linéaire ayant de 8 à 22 atomes de carbone, comme agents émulsionnants des phospholipides, des stérols, des alkyl(oligo)glycosides, ou des esters d'acide gras de sucres, d'alcools de sucre ou de polyglycérol ou des mélanges de ceux-ci, et comme principes actifs des désoxysucres ou les substances naturelles contenant ceux-ci.
  2. Composition cosmétique selon la revendication 1,
    caractérisée en ce que
    comme désoxysucre, le fucose, le rhamnose, ou un mélange de ceux-ci est contenu en une quantité allant de 0,1 à 10 % en poids de la composition.
  3. Composition cosmétique selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 ou 2,
    caractérisée en ce que
    la phase huileuse ou grasse ne contient pas plus de 5% en poids d'hydrocarbures ou de silicones.
  4. Composition cosmétique selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 å 3
    caractérisée en ce qu'
    elle ne renferme pas plus de 1% en poids de la composition en agents tensioactifs du type sulfate ou sulfonate, de produits d'addition de l'oxyde d'éthylène ou de l'oxyde de propylène, et d'agents tensioactifs du type ammonium quaternaire.
  5. Composition cosmétique selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 3
    caractérisée en ce qu'
    elle ne contient aucun agent tensioactif du type sulfate ou sulfonate, aucun produit d'addition de l'oxyde d'éthylène ou de l'oxyde de propylène, ou aucun agent tensioactif du type ammonium quaternaire.
  6. Composition cosmétique selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 5.
    caractérisée en ce que
    comme composant huileux ou gras, du beurre de karité (Shea Butter), de l'huile d'amande, de l'huile d'onagre, un triglycéride d'acides gras en C8-C10 ou un mélange de ceux-ci est contenu en quantités allant de 10 à 30 % de la composition.
  7. Composition cosmétique selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 6,
    caractérisée en ce que
    dans la phase aqueuse, un hydrocolloïde naturel ou synthétique est contenu en une quantité allant de 0,01 à 5 % en poids de la composition.
EP98905365A 1997-02-07 1998-01-29 Agents de soin pour la peau Revoked EP0966262B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE19704693A DE19704693A1 (de) 1997-02-07 1997-02-07 Hautpflegemittel
DE19704693 1997-02-07
PCT/EP1998/000473 WO1998034589A1 (fr) 1997-02-07 1998-01-29 Agents de soin pour la peau

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0966262A1 EP0966262A1 (fr) 1999-12-29
EP0966262B1 true EP0966262B1 (fr) 2002-04-17

Family

ID=7819618

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP98905365A Revoked EP0966262B1 (fr) 1997-02-07 1998-01-29 Agents de soin pour la peau

Country Status (11)

Country Link
EP (1) EP0966262B1 (fr)
CN (1) CN1246788A (fr)
AT (1) ATE216218T1 (fr)
CA (1) CA2278766A1 (fr)
DE (2) DE19704693A1 (fr)
ES (1) ES2175671T3 (fr)
HU (1) HUP0001137A2 (fr)
NO (1) NO993799D0 (fr)
PL (1) PL334853A1 (fr)
SK (1) SK106599A3 (fr)
WO (1) WO1998034589A1 (fr)

Families Citing this family (14)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE19832889A1 (de) * 1998-07-22 2000-01-27 Beiersdorf Ag Verfahren zur Isolierung und Reinigung von Fettsäuren und Hydroxyfettsäuren aus Insektenwachsen und deren Verwendung
ATE326205T1 (de) 2000-01-31 2006-06-15 Engelhard Corp Tensidfreietopische zusammensetzungen und verfahren zur schnelle herstellung davon
DE10154628A1 (de) * 2001-09-25 2003-04-10 Beiersdorf Ag Verwendung von Alkylglucosiden zum Erzielen oder Erhöhen der Selektivität von Reinigungszubereitungen
FR2853539B1 (fr) * 2003-04-08 2007-10-19 Ind E Com De Cosmeticos Natura COMPOSITION COSMETIQUE COMPRENANT LE FROPs ET LE RROPS, ET SON UTILISATION EN COSMETIQUE POUR UNE ACTION ANTI-VIEILLISSEMENT CUTANEE
CN100396274C (zh) * 2003-05-09 2008-06-25 日清奥利友集团株式会社 自乳化型油性液体化妆材料
FR2861729B1 (fr) * 2003-10-31 2006-09-08 Fabre Pierre Dermo Cosmetique Monomere d'alkyl-rhamnose ou d'alkyl-fucose, medicament comprenant un monomere d'alkyl-sucre reducteur
DE102007037678A1 (de) 2007-08-10 2009-02-12 Beiersdorf Ag Kosmetische Zubereitung zur Verbesserung des Hautzustandes
FR2940608B1 (fr) * 2008-12-30 2011-04-22 Oreal Utilisation de monosaccharides et composition
CN101879156B (zh) * 2009-05-07 2013-01-30 上海医药工业研究院 一种药物组合物及其应用
EP2286785A1 (fr) * 2009-08-20 2011-02-23 Kneipp-Werke Kneipp-Mittel-Zentrale GmbH & Co. KG Composition de nettoyage et/ou de soin de la peau dotée d'une composition de menthe éthanolique aqueuse hydrodispersible
CN102813607A (zh) * 2012-08-06 2012-12-12 威海市宇王集团有限公司 一种水包油型岩藻聚糖硫酸酯护肤膏及其制备方法
CN104492340B (zh) * 2014-11-28 2017-02-22 上海进瑞实业有限公司 一种乳化组成物
DE102016003804A1 (de) 2016-03-25 2017-09-28 Laverana Gmbh & Co. Kg Naturkosmetische Zubereitung zur Pflege der Haut des schlafenden Menschen
US11285092B2 (en) * 2018-08-08 2022-03-29 Sobel Brands, LLC Cosmetic base compositions and associated cosmetic compositions

Family Cites Families (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0103878B1 (fr) * 1982-09-17 1990-12-27 Humán Oltoanyagtermelö és Kutato Intézet Préparations pour le traitement des plaies de la surface de la peau et procédé pour leur obtention
FR2652742B1 (fr) * 1989-10-11 1993-10-29 Dominique Vacher Compositions anallergiques cosmetiques et dermo-pharmaceutiques.

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
CA2278766A1 (fr) 1998-08-13
CN1246788A (zh) 2000-03-08
DE59803855D1 (de) 2002-05-23
HUP0001137A2 (hu) 2000-09-28
WO1998034589A1 (fr) 1998-08-13
NO993799L (no) 1999-08-06
PL334853A1 (en) 2000-03-27
ATE216218T1 (de) 2002-05-15
DE19704693A1 (de) 1998-08-13
EP0966262A1 (fr) 1999-12-29
NO993799D0 (no) 1999-08-06
ES2175671T3 (es) 2002-11-16
SK106599A3 (en) 2000-01-18

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