Classifications

• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
  • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
  • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
  • D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
  • D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D03—WEAVING
  • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
  • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
  • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
  • D03D15/283—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D03—WEAVING
  • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
  • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
  • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
  • D03D15/208—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based
  • D03D15/225—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based artificial, e.g. viscose
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D03—WEAVING
  • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
  • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
  • D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
  • D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D03—WEAVING
  • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
  • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
  • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
  • D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D03—WEAVING
  • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
  • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
  • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
  • D03D15/573—Tensile strength
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
  • D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
  • D10B2201/02—Cotton
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
  • D10B2201/20—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
  • D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
  • D10B2401/13—Physical properties anti-allergenic or anti-bacterial
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
  • D10B2401/22—Physical properties protective against sunlight or UV radiation
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B2503/00—Domestic or personal
  • D10B2503/06—Bed linen

Definitions

• the present invention relates to a textile article, especially for household or bathroom linen, for example for bed sheets or sponge, for clothing, for example for shirts, and the like, comprising cellulose, especially cotton, or polyester.
• the present invention aims to overcome these disadvantages through a new textile article which is softer, finer, of great color brilliance and a strong tear resistance.
• the textile article is such that described in claim 1.
• the present invention relates to an article textile more resistant to tearing.
• the textile article is as described in claim 2.
• the article textile contains 10 to 50% by weight of regenerated cellulose and from 10 to 50% by weight of polyester.
• a microfiber is a fiber whose title is less than or equal to a dTex.
• Test Unit Micromodal Modal Headline dTex 1.0 1.7 Solidity, resistance, conditioned condition cN / Tex 35 35 Tear resistance, elongation, conditioned condition % 13 14 Wet strength cN / Tex 20.5 20.5 Tear resistance, elongation in the wet % 14 15 Humidity % 11 11 Module according to BISFA cN / Tex / 5% 7 6.5
• microfibers which have a higher number of fibers in the section, we obtain threads thinner.
• the fibers provide shine and different light reflectance, coloring is by therefore clearer.
• the brighter appearance is due to large numbers of fibers in section which increases the light reflecting surface.
• the good features fibers are retained and the behavior chemical, in the process of producing the two types of fibers above, is identical.
• the polyester fibers are in the form of polyester microfibers.
• Test Unit Filifine PES fibers Sample Method Device used Title (weight) d'Tex 0.92 1.5 20 strands Linear mass measurement Vibromat M Solidity, resistance, conditioned condition cN / Tex 65 64 20 strands Dynamometry Fafegraph M Sizing rate % 0.10 0.09 15 g of fiber Sizing rate by ether extraction Cold ether extraction Humidity % 0.55 0.55 10 g of fiber Humidity rate on drawn fiber under study Memmert oven Humidity % 0.55 0.55 2 g of fiber Humidity rate on drawn fiber under study Infralyser Practical cutting length mm 35 355 100 strands Cutting diagram Oil plate
• the titer is measured by a vibroscope. This method is based on measuring the mass per unit of length, i.e. the linear mass of the fiber.
• the control is carried out on cable (before cutting) on 10 wicks of around 600 dtex.
• the principle consists in measuring the length of a rag held between two pliers, before and after stress-free heat treatment. This processing is done in a saturated vapor atmosphere at 130 ° C for 30 minutes.
• the humidity is the measure of the loss of weight of a drawn fiber sample after baking at 200 ° C during one hour.
• the extraction of the size is carried out on 15 g of fibers with ethyl ether, evaporation of the ether and weighing of the residue.
• polyester fibers standard and FILIFIN are very close. They are all both designed for a harmonious marriage with all other fibers for cotton system spinning. The difference lies in the unit title of the strand which is 0.92 dTex therefore less than or equal to 1 dTex instead of 1.5 dTex for standard polyester fiber. This is also where the specificity of FILIFINE which claims to renowned properties of common fibers and adds to them the essentials: comfort, softness, lightness. Softer and more tenacious than cotton, it is also easier maintenance. The difference in draft between the fiber and the microfiber brings more finesse to the fabric.
• regenerated cellulose is included in the group consisting of viscose, modal, polynosic, cupro and lyocell with a preference for modal.
• the article comprises by weight from 10 to 50% of regenerated cellulose, 10 to 50% cotton, 10 to 50% cotton polyester microfibers, the sum of the three constituents being equal to 100%.
• the article includes less 45% regenerated cellulose.
• the invention finally relates to a manufacturing process of an article, characterized in that it consists of weaving at cellulose fibers, preferably polyester fibers polyester microfibers, or a mixture of fibers cellulose and polyester fibers and fibers regenerated cellulose, preferably microfibers regenerated cellulose, and subjecting the fabric to a heat setting at a temperature sufficient to soften superficially polyester fibers.
• Cellulose microfibers can be made regenerated as follows.
• Wood is the raw material for production chemical pulp: in wood there is about 40% of cellulose. The other substances (lignite and sugar) are dissolved while the cellulose goes to a solid state under form of chemical pulp.
• the wood used in this process is mainly beech.
• the beech pulp is then bleached with oxygen. This method causes less pollution than laundering chlorine.
• the wood is cut in two-meter sections and then go through a chopper to get sawdust.
• a conveyor take the sawdust to the digestive paste.
• the wood is then digested for eight hours at 140-150 degrees centigrade, under a pressure of 8 bars.
• the cellulose that is extracted meets standards of very high quality and purity. That's why she is mechanically cleaned, washed and bleached with oxygen course of several stages. Bleached cellulose is dehydrated, shredded and made into flakes, where it is further processed. Cellulose can also be dried in the form of tablecloths for storage or transport.
• magnesium bisulfite uses a solution of Mg (HSO3) 2 as acid which is reinforced with sulfur dioxide. Sulfur dioxide is partially neutralized by hydrated magnesium oxide - Mg (OH) 2 - in the purpose of producing the acid. During this process, the fibers chemicals are obtained by burning the acid solution concentrate (liquid waste), which can be recycled up to 99%.
• the "viscose” process to pass from the pulp chemical to fibers, is a chemical process.
• the chemical pulp is immersed in a solution of hydroxide sodium, which converts it to alkali cellulose.
• the extra sodium hydroxide is pressed, the rest of cellulose of alkali is defibrated and sent to a very high tank temperature.
• the alkali cellulose undergoes xanthalation (agitation, kneading in the presence of carbon bisulfite). Then when it is dissolved in water and alcohol, this substance becomes viscose. This viscose must be homogeneous, without bubbles or impurities to be able to pass through the channels. That is why it is previously filtered, deaerated and ironed by a second stage of maturity.
• the viscose is then transported to the spinning by pressurized hoses. Pumps compress viscose in spinning tanks.
• the viscose then passes through thousands of ultra fine holes. It is at this stage that we give the fiber properties of microfibers. The diameter of the holes sectors being more reduced (40 to 50 thousandths of millimeter), we obtain a fiber of a lower grade or equal to 1 dTex which can be classified in the field of microfibers.
• Spinning trays contain acid sulfuric, sodium sulfate and zinc sulfate. From that the alkali viscose goes into the acid bath, the acid sulfuric neutralizes sodium hydroxide. Cellulose dissolved is regenerated and recovered in the form of filaments. This is why viscose fibers are called regenerated cellulose. After the spinning stage, the filaments come out at constant speed in the form of a ribbon, which are stretched and then cut to a desired length. The material is then packaged as bales for shipping.
• microfibers from (poly (ethylene terephthalate)) as follows:
• the manufacturing processes are identical between FILIFIN and the standard in 1.5 dTex.
• esterification then, on the other hand of polycondensation a mixture of two components: glycol and acid terephthalic.
• the polymer thus obtained is then extruded then spun to get a cable.
• the latter after treatments mechanical will be sectioned in fraction ranging from 35 to 40 mm.
• the manufacturing processes for fibers and microfibers are very close. The significant difference is found at the time of extrusion and spinning to obtain a final unit titer of 0.9 dTex.
• Cotton, polyester microfibers and microfibers of regenerated cellulose are integrated into a spinning processes such as the yarn obtained meets the weaving and finished product requirements.
• Next sons the invention can be woven on any type of loom to weave (water jet, shuttle air jet). We can ennoble by a buckling.
• the appearance of the fabric gains a lot in sharpness.
• the flame height is fixed, the only adjustment possible can be done on the speed of passage of the fabric on the flame.
• the speed is about 100 to 120 m / mm.
• the fabric can then pass through an autoclave to undergo different treatments:
• Alkaline bleaching with hydrogen peroxide is useful to destroy the yellowish color of cotton with a scouring effect which will complete the elimination of residual impurities.
• the polyester part once degreased has a lighter color than cotton.
• Money laundering hydrogen peroxide will also remove grayish stains left by soiling and spinning operations and weaving.
• the fabric is bleached at a higher temperature or equal to 70 ° C.
• the fabric can then pass through a dryer train thermofixer.
• the compartments of the oars are maintained at 195 ° C and the fabric is heat-fixed for about 20 seconds.
• the desired width is obtained by two chains trimmed with clips adjusted exactly to the desired width which tend symmetrically and simultaneously the fabric on either side of the center. For example, for a finished width of 240 cm, the darts are adjusted to 243 cm.
• Polyester microfiber fabrics can be subjected to a thermofixation which makes it possible to fix the shrinkage and avoid the Sanforizing step.
• the traction / elongation behavior viscose microfibers is perfectly suited to others constituents of the mixture, i.e. polyester and cotton.
• the fabric will now be dried and then finished with passage on oar. It leaves the autoclave in the wet state. The cloth is passed through a scarf containing water and finishing chemicals then it is expressed. The rowing is therefore useful for regularizing the rate of moisture in the fabric and incorporate the products necessary to give the fabric the characteristics desired endings.
• the articles according to the invention have only a slight loss of resistance taking into account the tensions exerted course of preliminary treatments and effects of primers are better in comparison with viscose.
• a web weave was formed, with a texture of 31 threads / cm of warp, 26 picks / cm of 122 g / m 2 , in a mixture of 40% micromodal (microfibers of regenerated cellulose supplied by Lenzing), 40% of Filifine (microfibers of polyester supplied by TERGAL FIBERS of RHONE POULENC) and 20% combed cotton, on the other hand, a plain weave in 100% carded cotton of 110 g / m 2 and of texture 31/26, finally a polyester (50%) carded cotton (50%), texture 31/26, weight 114 g / m 2 , which correspond to the most widespread products on the market.
• the invention consisting of mixture of 40% micromodal, 40% micropolyester and 20% combed cotton, higher values of tear strength, these values indicate the strength at exercise on the test tube to tear the tissue. More this the greater the value, the more the fabric resists tearing.
• the percentage elongation is the ratio between the size initial specimen and final specimen size before the break. Therefore, the following article the invention is more resistant to tearing than the fabric 100% cotton and that polycotton, which implies a higher lifetime probability.
• Samples according to the invention have undergone tests to simulate a possible pilling that may appear in everyday life. After a number of cycles, the test tubes are superimposed on standard images to which a score is assigned (score ranging from 1 to 5, 5 being the state where no pilling appears, 1 a very intense pilling).
• the article according to the invention pills less than fabric 100% cotton and polycotton.
• items may be subject to singeing and primed with a suitable resin. This allows strongly avoid the formation of unwanted pilling during processing or use.
• the dimensional stability of the following article the invention obtained after 10 washes is much better than that of a cotton item.
• Cellulosic fibers and in particular the types of regenerated fibers absorb relatively large amounts of water and therefore swell more or less.
• Viscose microfibers differ from viscose fibers, by much higher resistances, by lower water absorption capacity and swelling lesser.
• the microfibers make it possible to correct the withdrawal issues. Indeed, the tissue swells less, which considerably reduces the internal tensions in the tissue. During drying, these swellings are eliminated, releases tension (lower than with other supports) and the textile material shrinks much less.
• the "crumpled" sample is compared to 5 images representative of a certain degree of wrinkle, a note going from 1 to 5 is then assigned (the rating 5 corresponds with the smoothest appearance, rating 1 with the most smooth appearance crumpled).
• the threads have good regularity, a shine pronounced, a very soft character and gives a touch and a lead inimitable to warp and weft fabrics.

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• Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
• Textile Engineering (AREA)
• Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
• Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
• Woven Fabrics (AREA)
• Artificial Filaments (AREA)

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Publications (2)

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Cited By (8)

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• 1999
  • 1999-11-17 FR FR9914438A patent/FR2798400B1/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
• 2000
  • 2000-09-08 EP EP00402474A patent/EP1085113A3/de not_active Withdrawn

Non-Patent Citations (1)

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