Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/34—Alcohols
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/34—Alcohols
  • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/35—Ketones, e.g. benzophenone
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
  • A61K8/602—Glycosides, e.g. rutin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/74—Biological properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/75—Anti-irritant
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
  • A61Q1/10—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
  • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations

Definitions

• composition based on isostearyl glycoside and isostearyl alcohol as an agent improving the water resistance of a cosmetic composition
• the present invention essentially relates to the use of compositions based on isostearyl glycoside and isostearyl alcohol for the manufacture of cosmetic compositions having improved water resistance.
• cosmetic compositions in particular in the form of oil-in-water, water-in-oil or water-in-oil-in-water emulsions, have a relatively insufficient resistance to water.
• a first means of increasing the water resistance of cosmetic compositions consists in introducing therein, in a dose generally between 1 and 5%, various hydrophobic polymers and more particularly vinyl copolymers such as the products sold under the ANTARON ® or GANEX ® names; acrylic copolymers of high molecular weight, such as the product sold under the name DERMACRYL ® LT, 79 by the company National Starch; or polymers of plant origin such as the product sold under the name GLOSSAMER ® by TRI-K company.
• various hydrophobic polymers and more particularly vinyl copolymers such as the products sold under the ANTARON ® or GANEX ® names; acrylic copolymers of high molecular weight, such as the product sold under the name DERMACRYL ® LT, 79 by the company National Starch; or polymers of plant origin such as the product sold under the name GLOSSAMER ® by TRI-K company.
• the polymers and copolymers thus used as agents improving the water resistance of cosmetic compositions are generally in a pasty or solid form, so that these products are relatively difficult to handle and must be introduced in a phase previously heated to 80 ° C.
• ANTARON products must be melted and introduced into the fatty phase with stirring until dissolution and before incorporation into the rest of the emulsion. In addition, they must be implemented under HLB conditions
• DERMACRYL ® type products must be neutralized at least 80% with an appropriate amount of base and must be added slowly with stirring. It is also possible to introduce them into cosmetic compositions without prior neutralization, but it is then necessary to dissolve them either in alcohols or in ethanol.
• a second means for improving the water resistance of cosmetic compositions consists in incorporating large quantities (greater than 40% by weight) of fatty phase containing conventional mineral oils and silicone phases such as silicone gums and in particular high molecular weight polydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicone / dimethiconol), silicone resins (dimethicone / trimethyl-siloxysilicate) or also products of the phenyl trimethicone type.
• the present invention aims to solve the technical problem consisting in the supply of new cosmetic compositions having improved water resistance, which can be obtained relatively easily and inexpensively, which are easy to spread and which present a pleasant touch.
• the subject of the present invention is the use of a composition comprising 10 to 90% by weight, preferably 10 to 50% by weight, and more preferably 10 to 40% by weight of a isostearyl glycoside having a degree of polymerization between 1 and 3; and 90 to 10% by weight, preferably 90 to 50% by weight, and more preferably 90 to 60% by weight of isosteraryl alcohol, as an agent improving the water resistance of a cosmetic composition.
• the originality of the present invention compared with the state of the prior art, lies in the fact that it makes it possible to obtain cosmetic compositions having improved water resistance, without alteration or ease of use. spreading, nor of the sensory properties (light touch, non-sticky character) of these compositions.
• compositions based on isostearyl glycoside and isostearyl alcohol used in the context of the present invention are generally in liquid form. Therefore, they are particularly easy to use and do not require any special precautions for implementation. In particular, these compositions can be used cold and without additional stabilizing agent.
• isostearyl glycoside having a degree of polymerization of between 1 and 3 is intended to denote compounds of formula:
• R represents an isostearyl radical, x represents a number between 1 and 3;
• G represents a residue of reducing glycopyranose or glycofuranose and preferably a residue of glucose.
• the degree of polymerization represented by x is between 1.05 and 2.5 and preferably between 1.1 and 2.
• the isostearylglycosides used in the context of the present invention are not always pure.
• alkyl radicals may in fact also contain minor proportions of compounds of the same nature in which the alkyl radicals have a longer and / or shorter chain, such compounds originating in particular from fatty alcohols generally of natural or synthetic origin used as starting material. for the synthesis of these compounds.
• minor proportion is meant a maximum cumulative amount of "impurities” of 5% by weight, and preferably 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the above-mentioned alkyl glycosides.
• compositions based on isostearyl glycoside and isostearyl alcohol used as an agent making it possible to improve water resistance in the context of the present invention can be prepared by simple mixing of their constituents in desired predetermined proportions.
• alkylpolyglycosides On an industrial scale, they will preferably be prepared according to one of the two routes conventionally used for the synthesis of alkylpolyglycosides, and in particular by reaction in acid medium between isostearyl alcohol and a saccharide having an anomeric OH group such as glucose or dextrose.
• this synthesis may be supplemented by operations of neutralization, filtration, distillation or partial extraction of excess fatty alcohol or discoloration.
• compositions improving the above-mentioned resistance to water comprise 10 to 25% by weight of an isostearyl glycoside having a degree of polymerization of between 1 and 3; and 90 to 75% by weight, isosteraryl alcohol.
• these compositions improving the water resistance will be used in an amount of between 0.2 and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
• the cosmetic compositions having improved water resistance which can be obtained in the context of the present invention can be in various forms, and in particular in the form of water-in-oil, oil-in emulsions. -water, water-in-oil-in-water.
• These emulsions can be prepared by the conventional methods described in the state of the art, for example, by simple dispersion of a fatty phase, in a hydrophilic phase, in the case of oil-in-water emulsions or by simple dispersion of '' a hydrophilic phase in a fatty phase, in the case of a water-in-oil emulsion, these operations being carried out in the presence of an emulsifying system and possibly of a co-emulsifier and / or of a stabilizer, the dispersion which can be carried out cold given the liquid nature of the composition based on isostearyl glycoside and isostearyl alcohol used as an agent improving water resistance.
• these emulsions may further comprise one or more compounds selected from humectants, such as glycerine, preservatives such as the products known under the name SEPICIDE ®, colorants, perfumes, cosmetic active agents, filters mineral or organic sunscreens, mineral charges such as iron oxides, titanium oxides and talc, synthetic charges such as nylons and micropearls and plant extracts.
• humectants such as glycerine
• preservatives such as the products known under the name SEPICIDE ®
• colorants such as the products known under the name SEPICIDE ®
• perfumes such as the products known under the name SEPICIDE ®
• filters mineral or organic sunscreens such as iron oxides, titanium oxides and talc
• synthetic charges such as nylons and micropearls and plant extracts.
• the present application aims to cover a process for improving the water resistance of a cosmetic composition, essentially characterized in that it consists in incorporating into said cosmetic composition an effective amount of an agent improving the water resistance based on isostearyl glycoside and isostearyl alcohol as defined above.
• Isostearyl alcohol is introduced into a multi-purpose reactor
• Glucose is also introduced into the reactor, so that the molar ratio between isostearyl alcohol and glucose is: 6/1.
• the glucose is then reacted with the fatty alcohol for 6 hours at a temperature of approximately 100 ° C., in the presence of an acid catalyst under partial vacuum.
• composition obtained which is in the form of a liquid comprises:
• An emulsion film of constant thickness is applied to a glass plate using an applicator for a 120 ⁇ m opening film.
• the color and coverage of the film are measured for the first time (on a black background) after a drying time of 30 minutes using a Minolta chromameter system L, a, b.
• the glass plate is then immersed for 20 min in water at 25 ° C with a continuous stirring system.
• composition "E” (preservative, perfume) is added at approximately 40 ° C.
• Composition A was produced using the composition of Example 1 based on isostearyl glycoside and isostearyl alcohol as an agent intended to improve water resistance (agent tested).
• compositions B to F were made by way of comparison.
• Composition B is a composition identical to composition A except that it does not contain a composition based on isostearyl glycoside and isostearyl alcohol.
• Composition C is a composition identical to composition A, in which is incorporated an agent for improving the water resistance advocated in the prior art, namely the product ® Antaron WP-660 (tricontanyl PNP) in place and place of the composition of Example 1.
• Composition D is a composition comprising 50% by weight of fatty phase prepared by preserving proportions analogous to formula A, and by incorporating 10% of Phenyl Trimethicone (product known under the name DC 556 sold by the company DOW CORNING).
• Composition E was identical to Composition A except that the composition based on isostearyl glycoside and isostearyl alcohol was replaced by a MONTANOV ® type of composition 68, comprising a mixture of alkyl polyglycosides the fatty chains comprise 16 and 18 carbon atoms, as well as a mixture of fatty alcohols with the same chain length prepared by following the experimental protocol described in Example 1 of document WO 92/06778.
• Composition F is identical to composition A except that the composition based on isostearylglycoside and isostearyl alcohol has been replaced by a composition comprising a mixture of alkylpolyglycosides whose fatty chains contain 16 and 18 atoms of carbon, as well as a mixture of fatty alcohols with the same chain length prepared by following the experimental protocol described in Example 4 of document WO 97/02091.
• Example 1 based on isostearyl glycoside and isostearyl alcohol makes it possible to improve the water resistance of the oil-in-water emulsion produced, the film deposited retaining 60% of its integrity after immersion, while retaining very good sensory properties.
• composition D have good water resistance but degraded sensory properties (greasy and sticky feel).
• 8 show the specificity of the compositions based on isostearylglycosides with respect to the desired effect.
• compositions based on isostearyl glycoside and isostearyl alcohol make it possible to improve the water resistance of cosmetic compositions in emulsion form from the amount of 0, 2% by weight, the sensory properties being maintained up to a dose of use of these compositions of approximately 10% by weight.
• compositions which were the subject of these evaluations were prepared by following the following protocol: a) a composition "A" (fatty phase) is heated to approximately 75 ° C .; b) a composition "B" (aqueous phase) is heated to approximately 75 ° C; c) a composition "C” (pigment) is ground by means of a ball mill; e) adding the composition "C” thus ground to the composition "B” at about 75 ° C; f) the composition resulting from the mixture obtained in step e) is emulsified at approximately 75 ° C. in composition "A”; g) during the cooling of the mixture thus obtained, a composition "D” (preservative, perfume) is added at approximately 40 ° C.
• Composition A was produced using the composition of Example 1 based on isostearyl glycoside and isostearyl alcohol as an agent intended to improve water resistance (agent tested).
• compositions B to D were made by way of comparison.
• Composition B is a composition identical to composition A except that it does not contain a composition based on isostearyl glycoside and isostearyl alcohol.
• Composition C is a composition identical to composition A, in which is incorporated an agent for improving the water resistance advocated in the prior art, namely the product ® Antaron WP-660 (tricontanyl PVP) in place and place of the composition of Example 1.
• Composition D is a composition comprising 50% by weight of fatty phase prepared by preserving proportions analogous to formula A, and by incorporating 10% of Phenyl Trimethicone (product known under the name DC 556 sold by the company DOW CORNING).
• Example 1 based on isostearyl glycoside and isostearyl alcohol makes it possible to improve the water resistance of the water-in-oil emulsion produced, the film deposited retaining 91% of its integrity after immersion.
• the emulsion obtained using the composition of Example 1 has a remarkable ease of spreading, unlike the other emulsions produced in accordance with the known state of the art.
• composition D emulsions produced in accordance with the known state of the art, incorporating a vinyl copolymer (example C) or a large amount of fatty phase comprising phenyl trimethicone (composition D) have good water resistance but are very difficult to spread.
• compositions based on isostearyl glycoside and isostearyl alcohol make it possible to improve the water resistance of cosmetic compositions in emulsion form from the amount of 0, 2% by weight, sensory properties being maintained up to a dose of use of these compositions of approximately 10% by weight.
• This emulsion was prepared according to the following procedure: a) a composition "A" (fatty phase) containing a composition based on isostearyl glycoside and isostearyl alcohol (product of example) is heated to 70 ° -75 ° C 1); b) heating to 70-75 ° C a composition "B" (aqueous phase); c) an oil-in-water emulsion is formed by dispersing the fatty phase "A" in the aqueous phase "B” using a SILVERSON 4'-4000 rpm type agitator; d) cooled under anchor; e) during cooling, a composition "C” (preservative) is added at around 60 ° C., and a composition "D” (perfume) at around 30 ° C.
• A fatty phase
• B aqueous phase
• an oil-in-water emulsion is formed by dispersing the fatty phase "A" in the aqueous phase "B” using a SIL
• This emulsion was prepared according to the following procedure: a) a composition "A" (fatty phase) containing a composition based on isostearyl glycoside and isostearyl alcohol (product of example) is heated to 70 ° -75 ° C 1); b) heating to 70-75 ° C a composition "B" (aqueous phase); c) a water-in-oil emulsion is formed by dispersing the aqueous phase "B" in the fatty phase "A” using a SILVERSON 4'-4000 rpm type agitator; d) cooled under anchor; e) during cooling, a composition "C” (preservative, perfume) is added at around 30 ° C.
• a composition "A" fatty phase
• isostearyl glycoside and isostearyl alcohol product of example
• This emulsion was prepared by following steps a) to d) of the procedure described above for the sunscreen, the heating temperature being approximately 85 ° C .; the aqueous phase having been ground prior to heating.
• Example 1 Composition of Example 1 10% ozokerite 10% beeswax 8% paraffin oil 5%
• BABY CREAM soothes diaper rashes (protects the skin from irritation linked to diaper moisture and alkalinity of urine).
• This emulsion was prepared by following the procedure described above for the mascara formulation, the heating temperature being 80 ° C; the dispersion being carried out with high shear. AT
• This multiple emulsion was prepared according to the following procedure: a) a composition "A" (fatty phase) containing a composition based on isostearyl glycoside and isostearyl alcohol is heated to approximately 80 ° C. (product of Example 1 ); b) a composition "B" (aqueous phase) is heated to 80 ° C .; c) a water-in-oil emulsion is formed by dispersing the aqueous phase "B" in the fatty phase "A” using a SILVERSON 4'-4000 rpm type agitator; d) cooled under anchor; e) during cooling, a composition "C” (stabilizer) is added at around 70 ° C., and a composition "D” (preservative, perfume) at around 30 ° C. AT

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• 1999
  • 1999-03-30 FR FR9903951A patent/FR2791565B1/fr not_active Expired - Lifetime
• 2000
  • 2000-03-29 US US09/937,733 patent/US6464993B1/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
  • 2000-03-29 WO PCT/FR2000/000777 patent/WO2000059455A1/fr not_active Ceased
  • 2000-03-29 JP JP2000609020A patent/JP2002541081A/ja active Pending
  • 2000-03-29 EP EP00915234A patent/EP1165018A1/de not_active Withdrawn

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