EP1260623B1 - Procede de tricotage du col d'un vetement tricote au moyen d'un metier a tricoter trame et vetement tricote - Google Patents

Procede de tricotage du col d'un vetement tricote au moyen d'un metier a tricoter trame et vetement tricote Download PDF

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Publication number
EP1260623B1
EP1260623B1 EP01906331A EP01906331A EP1260623B1 EP 1260623 B1 EP1260623 B1 EP 1260623B1 EP 01906331 A EP01906331 A EP 01906331A EP 01906331 A EP01906331 A EP 01906331A EP 1260623 B1 EP1260623 B1 EP 1260623B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
sleeves
stitches
sleeve
knitting
portions
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EP01906331A
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German (de)
English (en)
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EP1260623A1 (fr
EP1260623A4 (fr
Inventor
Kazuyoshi Okamoto
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Shima Seiki Mfg Ltd
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Shima Seiki Mfg Ltd
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Publication of EP1260623A4 publication Critical patent/EP1260623A4/fr
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D04B1/246—Upper torso garments, e.g. sweaters, shirts, leotards

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a knitting method of knitting a neckline of knitwear, such as a sweater and a cardigan, and to the knitwear knitted in the knitting method.
  • the neckline being formed in this manner, the number of wale of the neckline is increased and, as a result of this, not only a collar knitted subsequent thereto is widened but also the front drop is automatically formed in the neckline.
  • the knitwear comes to be fancy and stylish and so comfortable to wear that when wearing, one's head can smoothly pass through the neckline.
  • the method of the publication cited above is directed to a knitting technology for knitting the front body singularly as a part, not to the so-called "seamless knit” that is the knitting technology in which the front body and the back body are joined at each knitting-widthwise end thereof, to knit them into a tubular form and also are joined together at shoulder portions thereof in the process of knitting by using the flat knitting machine, to complete the knitting of knitwear, such as a vest and a sweater.
  • the "seamless knit” is the knitting technology for simplifying or omitting the sewing operation after the knitting process.
  • the applicant has proposed in many applications a variety of knitting technologies on and in connection with the seamless knit so far, including Japanese Laid-open (Unexamined) Patent Publications No. Hei 2(1990)-91254 , Hei 2(1990)-229248 , Hei 4(1992)-209855 and Hei 4(1992)-153346 .
  • the empty needles for transference can always be reserved for the respective parts of the knitted fabric on the opposed needle beds.
  • Using the empty needles enables the knitting of the structure pattern, such as links, garter and rib, in which front stitches and back stitches are mixed, and also enables the stitches of the sleeves and bodies to be shifted laterally so as to be joined to each other.
  • the needles on the lower front needle bed and the upper back needle bed are used to knit the front part of the knitted fabric
  • the needles on the lower back needle bed and the needles on the upper front needle bed are used to knit the back part of the knitted fabric.
  • the seamless knit using the four-bed flat knitting machine when the front part of the knitted fabric is knitted, the back part of the knitted fabric is associated with the lower back needle bed. On the other hand, when the back part of the knitted fabric is knitted, the front part of the knitted fabric is associated with the lower front needle bed.
  • the seamless knit using the four-bed flat knitting machine does not have the limitation that the alternate needles are used for the seamless knit, differently from the seamless knit using the two-bed flat knitting machine.
  • the seamless knit can be provided by using a flat knitting machine of a transfer jack bed type having a transfer jack bed arranging thereon transfer jacks in line and disposed over either or both of the front and back needle beds of the two-bed flat knitting machine.
  • holding technique means the stitch loop holding technique using a kind of compound needle, which is called “slide needle”, comprising a needle body and a slider which is formed by combining two thin metal sheets and has a tongue at a front end portion thereof.
  • the stitch as was originally retained in the hook of the needle body is held by the needle and also an additional stitch is received and held on the tongue of the slider, so that those two different stitches are separately held by the same needle.
  • this holding technique enables the needle from which the stitch is transferred to be used as the empty needle. If this holding technique is used to transfer the stitches back to the original empty needles after the knitting is adequately performed, even the two-bed flat knitting machine can knit the knitwear seamlessly with all needles, without any need for previous reservation of the empty needles for the transference of stitches.
  • the present invention provides a method of knitting knitwear having a neckline with a front drop knitted by using a flat knitting machine, wherein the knitting machine comprises at least a pair of first and second needle beds, which are extended laterally and confront each other in back and front and at least either of which can be lacked laterally to transfer stitches between the needle beds, wherein the knitwear is knitted in the condition that the front part of the knitwear is associated with the first needle bed and the back part of the knitwear is associated with the second needle bed, so that the body and sleeves of the front part and the body and sleeves of the back part are joined at both knitting-widthwise ends, so as to be knitted in the form of a tubular body and wherein while the bodies and the sleeves are knitted up to underarms of the knitwear and then are joined together from the underarms to shoulders so as to be knitted into a tubular form, stitches of the both sleeves and stitches of the bodies are laid over each other in sequence so that the tubular body can be gradually decreased in diameter, characterised in that the neckline is
  • the neckline is knitted in the following steps:
  • the present invention provides knitwear having a neckline with a front drop knitted by tubular knitting using a flat knitting machine, characterised in that portions of front sleeves extending from underarms to tops of sleeve caps are joined to first portions of the front body extending partway of their lengths extending from the underarms to the shoulders along armholes; tops of the sleeve caps of the front sleeves and a part of tops of the sleeve caps of the back sleeves on the side continuous to the tops of the sleeve caps of the front sleeves are joined to part of the front body extending from the first portions to the shoulders, and widening stitches are formed around the neckline at the part of the front body extending therefrom to the shoulders; portions of the back sleeves extending from the underarms to the tops of the sleeve caps are joined to portions of the back body extending from the underarms to the shoulders along the armholes; and extended portions are formed in the remaining portions of the tops of the sleeve caps of the
  • the front body of the knitwear knitted into the tubular body is forked into a right front body and a left front body and also is knitted by the shuttle knitting in the order of right front body - right sleeve - back body - left sleeve - left front body as if the alphabetic character "C" is drawn. Also, when the knitting is returned at the neckline, the stitches around the neckline are sequentially put into inoperative states. As a result of this, a circular front drop is formed in the front neckline and also an aperture of the neckline is widened.
  • the front sleeves and the back sleeves are shifted toward the front body and the back body, respectively, and the stitches of the sleeves and the stitches of the bodies are laid over each other one after another along the armholes, so as to decrease the diameter of the tubular body.
  • the portions of the front sleeves extending from the underarms to the tops of the sleeve caps are joined to portions of the front body extending partway of their lengths extending from the underarms to the shoulders along the armholes and the portions of the back sleeves extending from the underarms to the tops of the sleeve caps are joined to the portions of the back body extending partway of their lengths extending from the underarms to the shoulders along the armholes.
  • the knitting of the back body and the sleeves is suspended, during which only the left front body and the right front body can be knitted.
  • the aperture of the neckline is widened continuously and the joining of the sleeves and the bodies is collaterally performed.
  • the joining of the sleeves and the bodies is performed in such a manner that the front body and the front sleeves are joined together, first, and, then, a part of the back sleeves are joined to the front body.
  • the front sleeves retained on the first needle bed are shifted toward the front body. If this knitting proceeds, then the front sleeves and the back sleeves will be moved away from each other in the boundaries to cause possible yarn ruptures in the boundaries therebetween.
  • the stitches of the back sleeves retained on the second needle bed are sequentially fed to the first needle bed from the stitch at each outside end thereof, so as to keep balance of the knitting width between the sleeves retained on the front needle bed and the sleeves retained on the back needle bed.
  • the shoulder of the back body and the extended portions provided on the tops of the sleeve caps of the back sleeves undergo the shuttle knitting between the right back sleeve, the back body and the left back sleeve.
  • the fabrics of the extended portions of the sleeves are shifted toward the back body so as to allow the stitches of the sleeves and the back body at side ends thereof to be laid over each other and also the stitches of the front body at side ends thereof adjacent to the extended portions of the back sleeves are shifted to the second needle bed so as to be laid over the stitches of the sleeves at side ends thereof, so as to join the front body and the back body together across the extended portions of the sleeves.
  • the collar is knitted continuously to the neckline thus formed.
  • the neckline is increased in number of wale and the collar knitted continuously thereto is also increased in width, thus producing the knitwear that is so comfortable to wear that when wearing, one's head can smoothly pass through the neckline.
  • FIG. 1 shows a round-necked, set-in sweater knitted in the embodiment of the present invention
  • FIG. 2 shows parts of the set-in sweater that are to be knitted on a flat knitting machine
  • FIG. 3 shows a left half of the sweater as viewed from the back
  • FIG. 4 shows an outline of the knitting of the sweater in the respective steps
  • FIG. 5 shows a first half of the knitting steps of the sweater of the embodiment
  • FIG. 6 shows a second half of the knitting steps of the sweater of the embodiment.
  • a flat knitting machine having front and back needle beds, which have a number of knitting needles arranged in line, which confront each other in front and back, with the back needle bed being capable of being racked laterally, and between which stitches are transferred, is used, though not shown.
  • FIG. 1 shows a set-in sweater 1 knitted in this embodiment.
  • FIG. 2 shows a pattern paper (stitch alignment) of bodies and sleeves of the sweater 1. Illustrated above is the pattern of a back body 2b and back sleeve parts 4b, 14b which will appear at the back side when wearing the sweater. These parts are knitted with needles on the back needle bed. Illustrated below is the pattern of a front body 2a and front sleeve parts 4a, 14a which will appear at the front side when wearing the sweater. These parts are knitted with needles on the front needle bed.
  • FIG. 3 shows the left half of the sweater 1 as viewed from the back.
  • FIG. 4 shows an outline of the knitting of the sweater 1 in the respective steps.
  • FIGS. 5 and 6 show the knitting steps, illustrating the knitting in each step of FIG. 4 in detail.
  • the front body is represented by a boldest solid line
  • the back body is represented by a second-boldest solid line
  • the sleeves are represented in a solid line.
  • the sweater 1 knitted in this embodiment is a rounded-neck sweater which has the courses formed from the hem of the front body to the shoulder at the point F larger in number than the courses formed from the hem of the back body to the shoulder at O and is designed so that the front body goes beyond a shoulder line 18 into the back body and is joined to the back body thereat.
  • the sweater is designed in the form of an unpatterned plain knit, though it may have another structure pattern such as jacquard or rib.
  • the front body 2a and the front sleeve parts 4a, 14a are joined at the underarms A, a and Q, q of the front body and the front sleeve parts, and the back body 2b and the back sleeve parts 4b, 14b are joined at the underarms M, m and U, u of the back body and the back sleeve parts.
  • the line A-B-C of the front body 2a and the line Q-R of the sleeve 4a are joined together around the armhole 22, and the line a-b-c of the front body 2a and the line q-r of the sleeve 14b line are joined together around the armhole 22.
  • the line M-N-O of the back body 2b and the line U-V of the sleeve 4b are joined together, and the line m-no of the back body 2b and the line u-v of the sleeve 14b are joined together.
  • the front body 2a is different from the back body 2b in the shape subsequent to the points K, k of the neckline 10a and is knitted to be forked into the right front body 15a and the left front body 5a.
  • the line R-S of the left front sleeve 4a is joined to the line C-D of the left front body 5a, first, and, then, the line r-s of the right front sleeve 14a is joined to the line c-d of the right front body 15a. Then, the line S-T of the left front sleeve 4a is joined to the line D-E of the left front body 5a, and the line X-W of the left back sleeve 4b is joined to the next line E-F.
  • the line s-t of the right front sleeve 14a is joined to the line d-e of the right front body 15a, first, and, then, the line x-w of the right back sleeve 14b is joined to the next line e-f.
  • the line F-G of the front body 2a and the line W-Z of the left back sleeve 4b are joined together at the shoulder, and the line O-P of the back body 2b and the line V-Y of the left back sleeve 4b are joined together at the shoulder.
  • the line f-g of the front body 2a and the line w-z of the right back sleeve 14b are joined together and the line o-p of the back body 2b and the line v-y of the right back sleeve 14b are joined together.
  • the terms "right” and "left” appearing in the members, such as the right front body and the left sleeve is intended to mean the right-hand part and the left-hand part when viewing from a wearer who wears the sweater.
  • step 1 after yarns are fed to needles of a front needle bed FB by yarn feeders (not shown) prepared for the body 2 and the sleeves 4, 14, respectively, the yarn feeders are reversed in direction to feed the yarns to needles of a back needle bed BB. This knitting is repeated to start to knit rib portions 6, 7, 17 of a tubular body.
  • step 2 the sleeves 4, 14 are knitted up to the underarms (at A, Q, a, q, M, U, m, u) in parallel with the knitting of the body 2, while increasing the diameters of the sleeves 4, 14.
  • the body 2 and the sleeves 4, 14 are united into a single tubular body by using the same yarn feeders that have been used, for example, for the knitting of the body.
  • the stitches of the sleeves 4, 14 are shifted toward and laid over the body 2. This knitting is repeated to gradually reduce the diameter of the tubular body. In this knitting, the knitting width of the body is also reduced.
  • the step 3 shows the state of the knitted fabrics retained on the needle beds when the front body 2a has been knitted up to the positions K, k at which the formation of the neckline 10a is started.
  • the front body 2a is forked into a right front body 15a and a left front body 5a.
  • the front body is knitted in the order of the right front body 15a, the right sleeve 14, the back body 2b, the left sleeve 4 and the left front body 5a.
  • the yarn feeders are reversed in direction at the neckline 10a to proceed with the knitting of the front body in the inverse order of the left front body 5a, the left sleeve 4, the back body 2b, the right sleeve 14 and the right front body 15a as if the alphabetic character "C" is drawn.
  • This knitting is repeatedly performed. In this knitting, the so-called flechage knitting is performed, so that the stitches around the neckline 10a (lines K-J and k-j) are sequentially put into inoperative states.
  • the step 4 shows the state of the knitted fabrics retained on the needle beds when the front body 2a has been knitted up to the positions J, j to which the formation of the neckline 10a comes up.
  • an additional yarn feeder is added and whenever the courses of the right front body 15a and left front body 5a are knitted, the stitches of the right front sleeve 14a and the stitches of the left front sleeve 4a are shifted toward their bodies, so that the stitches of these sleeves are laid over the stitches of the front bodies at side ends thereof.
  • This knitting is repeatedly performed in these steps.
  • Six stitches 1-6 of nine stitches 1-9 located on the flat portions R-T and r-t of the sleeve caps of the right front sleeve 14a and left front sleeve 4a are joined to the front body at the positions I, i.
  • the step 5 shows the state of the first stitch 1 of the stitches 1-6 being laid over the body.
  • the step 6 shows the state of the next stitch 2 being laid over the body. If the sequent stitches 3-6 undergo the same knitting, then only the fabrics of the front sleeves 4a, 14a will be shifted toward the body, resulting in possible yarn breakage in the boundaries between T and X and between t and x, respectively. To avoid this possible yarn breakage, the stitches of the back sleeves 4b, 14b are sequentially fed to the front needle bed from the stitch 9 at each side end thereof, so as to minimize the difference in knitting width between the sleeves retained on the front needle bed and the sleeves retained on the back needle bed.
  • the knitting step that the stitches 3-6 are laid over the front body is inserted between the step 6 and the step 7, though the illustration is omitted here.
  • the knitting to join together the front bodies 5a, 15a and the right front sleeve 14a and left front sleeve 4a is provided collaterally, before leading up to their positions I, i of the neckline 10a, as shown in the steps 5-7.
  • another knitting way may be adopted, such as the knitting that after the knitting to join together one of a pair, e.g. the right front body 15a and the right front sleeve 14a, leading up to the position i, is completed, the knitting to join together the other of the pair, i.e., the left front body 5a and the left front sleeve 4a, is provided.
  • all stitches of the right front sleeve 14a may be transferred to the back needle bed for a while, and, then, whenever the course knitting of the right front body 15 is provided, the back needle bed is racked rightwards to shift the right front sleeve 14a toward the body, so as to allow the stitches of the right front sleeve 14a to be laid over the right front body 15a.
  • the stitches of the right front sleeve 14a are transferred to the upper back needle bed.
  • the stitches of the left back sleeve 4b are fed from outside to the front needle bed, to keep balance between the knitting width of the front fabric and the knitting width of the back fabric, so that the stitches of the left front sleeve 4a retained on the front needle bed and the stitches of the left back sleeve 4b retained on the back needle bed are kept in position, without being away from each other in the boundary therebetween.
  • the same knitting is provided for the left front body 5a and the left front sleeve 4a.
  • the knitting to increase the knitting width of the front neckline 10a is provided subsequent to the position I, i. This knitting is provided during the knitting of the right front body 15a and the left front body 5a.
  • the line D-E of the left front body 5a and the line S-T of the left front sleeve 4a are joined together and the line d-e of the right front body 15a and the line s-t of the right front sleeve 14a are joined together.
  • the step 8 shows the course knitting of the left front body 5a during which the right part of the neckline 10a is formed. In this step, whenever the left front body 5a is knitted in two courses, the stitches of the left front body 5a are shifted toward and laid over the stitches of the adjacent left sleeve 4 one after another.
  • this knitting is repeated six times, so that the knitting width of the neckline 10a is increased six stitches (wale) at the right side.
  • widening stitches (marked by "x") are formed around the neckline, to prevent the margin of the neckline 10a from being bored.
  • the widening stitches can be formed by using the widening technique such as tuck and split knit, any other techniques than the widening technique mentioned above may be used, as long as it can close up the bored portion.
  • the step 9 shows the course knitting of the right front body 15a during which the left part of the neckline 10a is formed. This knitting is provided in the same manner as in the step 8.
  • the knitting width of the front neckline 10a is increased twelve stitches (wale) in total, six stitches for each side thereof. While in the embodiment illustrated above, the right part of the neckline is knitted in the step 8, first, and, then, the left part of the neckline is knitted in the step 9, the both parts of the neckline may be knitted collaterally.
  • the step 10 shows the state of the knitted fabrics retained on the needle beds when the neckline 10a is knitted up to the position G, g at which the knitting of the front body 2a is ended.
  • the knitted fabric of the front body 2a forming the front neckline 10a therein is retained on the front needle bed, and the stitches of the back body 2b laying between O-o and the stitches 1-6 of the back sleeves laying between V-W and between v-w located at both sides of the back body are retained on the back needle bed.
  • the knitting of the shoulder portion shown in the steps 10-13 the temporarily suspended course knitting of the back body 2b is restarted and the course knitting of the shoulder portion of the back body 2b indicated by 12 in FIG. 2 is provided.
  • the knitting of the shoulder portion 12 is provided in parallel with the knitting of the rectangular portions 9b, 19b extending from the sleeve caps of the right and left back sleeves 14b, 4b. This knitting is provided in the shuttle knitting using a single yarn feeder to knit shuttlewise between the right back sleeve 14b, the back body 12 and the left back sleeve 4b.
  • the knitted fabrics of the sleeves 9b, 19b are shifted toward the back body 2b to allow the stitches at the side ends of the sleeves and the stitches at the side ends of the back body to be overlaid with each other one by one, so as to gradually reduce the knitting width of the back body.
  • the stitches of the front body 2a at the side end thereof adjacent to the sleeves 9b, 19b are fed to the back needle bed one after another in each case, so as to be laid over the stitches at the side ends of the sleeves 9b, 19b.
  • the front body 2a and the back body 2b are joined to each other across the rectangular portions 9b, 19b of the sleeves (See. FIG. 3 ).
  • the line F-G of the front body 2a and the line W-Z of the left back sleeve 4b are joined together and the line O-P of the back body 2b and the line V-Y of the left back sleeve 4b are joined together.
  • the line f-g of the front body 2a and the line w-z of the right back sleeve 14b are joined together and the line o-p of the back body 2b and the line v-y of the right back sleeve 14b are joined together.
  • the step 12 shows the state in which the diameter of the tubular body is partly reduced.
  • the step 13 shows the state presented when the knitting proceeds further and the joining of the shoulder portion is ended. In this state, only the front neckline 10a is retained on the front needle bed, while on the other hand, the back neckline 10b and the rectangular portions 9b, 19b of the right and left back sleeves 14b, 4b are retained on the back needle bed.
  • step 14 after a desired number of courses of the collar 20 are knitted cyclically along the annulus (around the line g-h-i-j-k-K-J-I-H-G-Z-Y-P-p-y-z-g) formed by joining the dots g, h, i, j, k, K, J, I, H and G on the neckline formed in the front body 2a, the dots Z and Y of the left back sleeve 4b, the dots P and p of the back body 2a and the dots y and z of the right back sleeve 14b, the knitting of the sweater 1 is ended.
  • the knitting width of the front neckline 10a comes to be larger than that of the back neckline 10b, then causing difference in knitting width between the front and back parts.
  • the rectangular portions 9b, 19b of the right and left back sleeves 14b, 4b are knitted continuously, when the shoulder portion 12 of the back body is knitted, so that the front and back parts of the tubular body can be made to have a uniform knitting width, the fabric can be knitted in tubular form at the collar without any difficulty.
  • the sweater 1 knitted in this manner comes to have the front drop formed in the neckline 10 and resultantly comes to be stylish. Besides, it comes to have such a largely opened neckline that when wearing, one's head can smoothly pass through the neckline, resulting in being comfortable to wear.
  • the collar 20 is knitted in the form of a rounded neck, it may be knitted in any desired design such as a turtle neck. Also, the neckline may be formed in U-shape.
  • the number of wale of the neckline is increased, and as such can allow the width of the collar to increase, as mentioned above, thus producing the knitwear that is so comfortable to wear that when wearing, one's head can smoothly pass through the neckline.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Knitting Machines (AREA)
  • Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)

Claims (3)

  1. Procédé consistant à tricoter un vêtement tricoté ayant une encolure avec un plat ventre tricoté en utilisant une machine à tricoter rectiligne, dans lequel la machine à tricoter comporte au moins une paire de premier et second lits d'aiguilles, desquels sont étendus latéralement et se font face mutuellement en avant et en arrière et au moins l'un d'entre eux peut être déplacé latéralement pour transférer des points entre les lits d'aiguilles, dans lequel le vêtement tricoté est tricoté à la condition que la partie avant du vêtement tricoté soit associée au premier lit d'aiguilles et que la partie arrière du vêtement tricoté soit associée au second lit d'aiguilles, de sorte que le corps (2a) et les manches (4a, 14a) de la partie avant et le corps (2b) et les manches (4b, 14b) de la partie arrière soient reliées au niveau des deux extrémités dans le sens de la largeur du tricotage, de manière à être tricotés sous la forme d'un corps tubulaire et, dans lequel, alors que les corps et les manches sont tricotés jusqu'aux aisselles du vêtement tricoté et sont ensuite reliés ensemble depuis les aisselles jusqu'aux épaules de manière être tricotés selon une forme tubulaire, des points des deux manches et des points des corps sont mis les uns sur les autres en série de sorte que le diamètre du corps tubulaire peut-être réduit graduellement, caractérisé en ce l'encolure est tricotée selon les étapes suivantes :
    a) des parties des manches avant (4a, 14a) s'étendant depuis les aisselles jusqu'aux extrémités des têtes de manche sont reliées à des premières parties du corps avant (2a) s'étendant partiellement de leurs longueurs depuis les aisselles jusqu'aux épaules le long des emmanchures (22) ;
    b) des extrémités des têtes de manche des manches avant (4a, 14a) et une partie des extrémités des têtes de manche des manches arrières (4b, 14b) sur le côté continu aux extrémités des têtes de manches des manches avant (4a, 14a) sont reliées à une partie du corps avant s'étendant depuis les premières parties jusqu'aux épaules, et des points d'élargissement sont formés autour de l'encolure (10a) au niveau de la partie du corps avant s'étendant depuis celle-ci jusqu'aux épaules ;
    c) des parties des manches arrières (4b, 14b) s'étendant depuis les aisselles jusqu'aux extrémités des têtes de manches sont reliées à des parties du corps arrière s'étendant depuis les aisselles jusqu'aux épaules le long des emmanchures (22) ; et
    d) des parties étendues (9b, 19b) sont formées dans les parties restantes des extrémités des têtes de manches des manches arrières (4b, 14b) et sont tricotées pour être continues aux parties d'épaule du corps arrière (2b), et le corps avant (2a) et le corps arrière (2b) sont reliés ensemble à travers les parties étendues (9b, 19b)).
  2. Procédé selon la revendication 1, dans lequel l'encolure est tricotée selon les étapes suivantes :
    a) à partir d'une encolure avant formant un point de départ (K - K), à partir duquel le corps avant est dirigé dans un corps avant droit (15a) et un corps avant gauche (5a), le corps avant droit (15a), une manche droite (14), le corps arrière (2b), une manche gauche (4) et le corps avant gauche (5a) sont tricotés dans cet ordre et, ensuite, une fois que la direction d'un passe-fil a été inversée au niveau de l'encolure avant, pour tricoter le corps avant gauche, la manche gauche, le corps arrière, la manche droite et le corps avant droit dans cet ordre lors d'un tricotage par navette, au cours duquel les points autour de l'encolure avant sont séquentiellement placés dans des états inopérants et simultanément les points des deux manches sont déplacés vers les corps et sont déposés sur les points des corps l'un après l'autre, de manière à réduire le diamètre du corps tubulaire (étapes 1 à 4) ;
    b) uniquement le corps avant gauche et le corps avant droit sont tricotés, pendant cette période les points autour de l'encolure avant sont séquentiellement retirés du tricotage de manière à être placés dans des états inopérants et également alors que les points des manches arrières sont transmis depuis l'extérieur au lit d'aiguilles avant pour conserver l'équilibre entre les largeurs de tricotage des tissus avant et arrière au niveau des parties de manches correspondantes conservées sur les premier et second lits d'aiguilles, les aiguilles des manches avant sont déplacées vers le corps avant et déposées sur les points du corps avant (étapes 5 à 7) ;
    c) pendant que le tricotage est continuellement exécuté alors que les points autour de l'encolure avant son séquentiellement retirés du tricotage de manière à être placés dans des états inopérants, le tricotage uniquement du corps avant droit et du corps avant gauche est exécuté, pendant que, alors que des points d'élargissement sont formés, les points du corps avant droit et les points du corps avant gauche sont déplacés vers les manches, de manière à permettre aux points des manches avant de reposer sur les points des manches arrières tels que transmis au premier lit d'aiguilles à l'étape b) (étapes 8- 9) ; et
    d) une fois que les parties d'épaule du corps arrière et des parties étendues agencées sur les extrémités de têtes de manche des manches arrières sont tricotées dans l'ordre de la manche arrière droite, du corps arrière et de la manche arrière gauche, la direction du passe-fil est inversée pour tricoter la manche arrière gauche, le corps arrière et la manche arrière droite dans cet ordre inverse lors du tricotage par navette, au cours duquel les tissus au niveau des parties étendues sont amenés vers le corps arrière de manière à permettre aux points au niveau des extrémités latérales des manches et aux points au niveau des extrémités latérales du corps arrière de reposer les uns sur les autres et simultanément les points du corps avant au niveau des extrémités latérales correspondantes adjacentes aux manches sont transmis au second lit d'aiguilles de manière à reposer séquentiellement sur les points au niveau des extrémités latérales des manches, après quoi le corps avant et le corps arrière sont mutuellement reliés à travers les parties étendues des manches (étapes 10-14).
  3. Vêtement tricoté ayant une encolure avec un plat ventre tricoté par l'intermédiaire d'un tricotage tubulaire en utilisant une machine à tricoter rectiligne, caractérisé en ce que des parties de manches avant (4a, 14a) s'étendant depuis les aisselles jusqu'aux extrémités des têtes de manches sont reliées à des premières parties du corps avant (2a) s'étendant partiellement de leurs longueurs depuis les aisselles jusqu'aux épaules le long des emmanchures (22) ; des extrémités des têtes de manche des manches avant (4a, 14a) et une partie des extrémités des têtes de manche des manches arrières (4b, 14b) sur le côté continu aux extrémités des têtes de manches des manches avant (4a, 14a) sont reliées à une partie du corps avant s'étendant depuis les premières parties jusqu'aux épaules, et des points d'élargissement sont formés autour de l'encolure (10a) au niveau de la partie du corps avant s'étendant depuis celle-ci jusqu'aux épaules ; des parties des manches arrières (4b, 14b) s'étendant depuis les aisselles jusqu'aux extrémités des têtes de manches sont reliées à des parties du corps arrière s'étendant depuis les aisselles jusqu'aux épaules le long des emmanchures (22) ; et des parties étendues (9b, 19b) sont formées dans les parties restantes des extrémités des têtes de manches des manches arrières (4b, 14b) et sont tricotées pour être continues aux parties d'épaule du corps arrière (2b), et le corps avant (2a) et le corps arrière (2b) sont reliés ensemble à travers les parties étendues (9b, 19b).
EP01906331A 2000-02-29 2001-02-26 Procede de tricotage du col d'un vetement tricote au moyen d'un metier a tricoter trame et vetement tricote Expired - Lifetime EP1260623B1 (fr)

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WO2002092895A1 (fr) * 2001-05-11 2002-11-21 Shima Seiki Manufacturing, Ltd. Procede de tricotage sur machine de tricotage rectiligne, et programme de tricotage
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US7197371B2 (en) 2003-03-31 2007-03-27 Shima Seiki Manufacturing, Ltd. Method and device for knit design
WO2011004694A1 (fr) * 2009-07-09 2011-01-13 株式会社島精機製作所 Tricot comportant des manches et un corps, et procédé de tricotage associé
CN112176517B (zh) * 2020-09-30 2021-11-30 嘉兴市蒂维时装有限公司 一种提高横机全成型服装编织效率的编织方法
CN112593338B (zh) * 2020-12-03 2022-03-22 嘉兴市蒂维时装有限公司 一种全成型马鞍肩领型结构的编织方法及针织物

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TW508388B (en) 2002-11-01
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KR100610750B1 (ko) 2006-08-09
KR20020075928A (ko) 2002-10-07

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