EP1280496A2 - Produit cosmetique comprenant des derives de 2-furanone - Google Patents

Produit cosmetique comprenant des derives de 2-furanone

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Publication number
EP1280496A2
EP1280496A2 EP01938136A EP01938136A EP1280496A2 EP 1280496 A2 EP1280496 A2 EP 1280496A2 EP 01938136 A EP01938136 A EP 01938136A EP 01938136 A EP01938136 A EP 01938136A EP 1280496 A2 EP1280496 A2 EP 1280496A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
mono
branched
saturated
linear
unsaturated
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP01938136A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Erik Schulze Zur Wiesche
Britta Bossmann
Detlef Hollenberg
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Original Assignee
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Henkel AG and Co KGaA filed Critical Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Publication of EP1280496A2 publication Critical patent/EP1280496A2/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C11—ANIMAL OR VEGETABLE OILS, FATS, FATTY SUBSTANCES OR WAXES; FATTY ACIDS THEREFROM; DETERGENTS; CANDLES
    • C11D—DETERGENT COMPOSITIONS; USE OF SINGLE SUBSTANCES AS DETERGENTS; SOAP OR SOAP-MAKING; RESIN SOAPS; RECOVERY OF GLYCEROL
    • C11D3/00—Other compounding ingredients of detergent compositions covered in group C11D1/00
    • C11D3/16—Organic compounds
    • C11D3/20—Organic compounds containing oxygen
    • C11D3/2096—Heterocyclic compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A61Q1/06—Lipsticks
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q15/00—Anti-perspirants or body deodorants
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/002—Aftershave preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/04—Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A61Q5/065—Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

  • the invention relates to cosmetic compositions containing certain derivatives of 2-furanones. and the use of these agents for the treatment of keratin fibers and skin.
  • Cosmetics for the care and maintenance of the natural functions of skin and hair are becoming increasingly important.
  • the changed consumer habits and fashion trends contribute to this.
  • the intensive use of tanning salons has a lasting impact on the structure of skin and hair by UV light.
  • These impairments are shown on the skin and hair, for example, by a loss of elasticity.
  • emulsions for skin care were further optimized in terms of their irritant potential by selecting suitable emulsifiers.
  • Mild surfactants are used to clean the skin and hair so as not to put additional strain on the skin and hair.
  • moisturizing substances attempts are made to avoid stimulating sebum production during cleaning.
  • UV protection agents and vitamins such as vitamin E are said to reduce the adverse effects of UV light.
  • Protein hydrolyzates are used to balance the internal structure of the skin and hair. Plant and algae extracts can be used, for example, to influence the moisture balance of skin and hair.
  • cosmetic active ingredients are increasingly being used in agents for cleaning and maintaining surfaces such as glass, porcelain, leather, textiles, floors of all kinds in the household and in trade, in order not to put additional strain on the skin of the user of such products.
  • So hand dishwashing detergents with nourishing additives such as proteins or lipid-replenishing substances are available on the market.
  • a first subject of the invention is therefore a cosmetic agent containing conventional cosmetic ingredients, characterized in that it contains a 2-furanone of the formula (I) and / or of the formula (II) as active ingredient,
  • radicals R 1 to R 10 independently of one another stand for:
  • Trihydroxy hydrocarbon residue a group -NR I2 R 13 , where R 12 and R 13 each independently represent
  • Hydrogen a methyl, a -C 2 - C 4 - saturated or mono- or di-unsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C 2 - C 4 - saturated or mono- or di-unsaturated, branched or linear mono-,
  • Di- or trihydroxy hydrocarbon radical a group -COOR 14 , where R 14 stands for hydrogen, a methyl, a -C 2 - C 4
  • Hydrocarbon residue a -C 2 - C 4 - saturated mono- or di-unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy hydrocarbon residue, a -
  • R 15 and R 16 each represent hydrogen, methyl, a -C 2 - C 4 - saturated or mono- or di-unsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C 2 - C 4 - saturated mono- or di-unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbon residue, a -C 2 - C 4 - saturated or mono- or di-unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triaminocarbon residue,
  • R 16 is a methyl, a -C 2 - C 4 - saturated or mono- or di-unsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C 2 - C 4 - saturated or mono- or doubly unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy hydrocarbon residue, a -C 2 - C 4 - saturated or mono- or di-unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triaminocarbon residue,
  • R 17 is a methyl, a -C 2 - C 30 - saturated and / or mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C 2 - C 30 - saturated or a - or polyunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di-, tri- or polyhydroxyhydrocarbon radical, a -C 2 - C 30 - saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di-, tri- or polyamino hydrocarbon radical, with provided that if R 7 and R 8 are -OH and R 9 or R 10 are hydrogen at the same time, then the remaining group R 9 or R 10 is not one
  • 2-furanones are known compounds and are described, for example, in "Römpps Lexikon der Chemie, Interactive CD-Rom Version 2.0, for the keyword” Dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanon "and in”Ullmann's Encyclopedia , sixth edition 1999, electronic release "in sections 2.4, 2.7, 3.2, 3.4, 4.3, 6th, 11th and 15th and the publications cited therein with regard to manufacture and use. Reference is expressly made to these chapters and the literature cited there.
  • the compounds of the formulas (I) and (II) are used as intermediates in natural product synthesis and in the production of medicaments and vitamins.
  • the active compounds according to formulas (I) and (II) can be prepared, for example, by reacting primary alcohols with acrylic acids.
  • Compounds of formula (I) are also obtained by reactions starting from hydroxypivaldehyde. Carbonylations from alkynes likewise lead to substituted 2-furanones of the formula (I) or (II).
  • the compounds of the formula (I) or of the formula (II) can be obtained by intramolecular esterification of the corresponding hydroxycarboxylic acids.
  • the following compounds are obtained in one of the synthetic routes outlined above: 2,5-dihydro-5-methoxy-2-furanone, Tetrahydro-5-oxo-2-furan carboxylic acid, dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl 1-2 (3 H) -furanone, or 3,4-dimethyl-5-pentylidenedihydro-2 (5H) -furanone or 4-hydroxy-2,5-dimethyl-3 (2H) furanone.
  • the 2-furanones according to the invention naturally include all possible stereoisomers as well as their mixtures.
  • the 2-furanones according to the invention do not have a lasting effect on the smell of the cosmetic agents, so that the agents must be perfumed separately.
  • Preferred compounds of the formula (I) and / or of the formula (II) can be compounds in which the substituents R 1 , R 2 and R 7 are independently of one another:
  • R 11 as a -C 2 - C 4 - saturated or mono- or di-unsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, -C 2 - C 4 - saturated or mono- or di-unsaturated, branched or linear Mono-, di- or trihydroxy hydrocarbon residue,
  • R 12 and R 13 each independently represent hydrogen, a methyl, a -C 2 - C 4 - saturated or mono- or di-unsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a - C 2 - C 4 - saturated or mono- or di-unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy hydrocarbon residue,
  • R 14 represents hydrogen, a methyl, a -C 2 - C 4 - saturated or mono- or di-unsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a - C 2 - C 4 - saturated or a - or di-unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy-hydrocarbon radical, a -C 2 - C 4 - saturated or mono- or di-unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triaminocarbon residue, - A group -COR 16 , where R 16 is a methyl, a -C 2 - C 4 - saturated or mono- or di-unsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C 2 - C 4 - saturated or mono- or monounsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxycarbon residue, a -C 2 - C 4 - saturated or mono- or diunsaturaturaturation
  • R 17 is a methyl, a -C 2 - C 30 - saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C 2 - C 30 - saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di-, tri- or polyhydroxyalkyl radical, or a -C 2 - C 30 - saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di-, tri- or polyamino hydrocarbon radical.
  • Hydrogen an -OH, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl, hydroxymethyl radical, a -C 2 - C 4 - saturated or mono- or di-unsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical,
  • a compound of the formula (I) is used. It may be preferred that in a compound of formula (I) the radicals R 1 and R 2 independently of one another represent:
  • R 11 as a -C 2 - C 4 - saturated or mono- or di-unsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, -C 2 - C 4 - saturated or mono- or di-unsaturated, branched or linear Mono-, di- or trihydroxy hydrocarbon residue,
  • R 14 represents hydrogen, a methyl, a -C 2 - C 4 - saturated or mono- or di-unsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C 2 - C 4 - saturated mono- or monounsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy hydrocarbon radical,
  • R 16 is a methyl, a -C 2 - C 4 - saturated or mono- or di-unsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C 2 - C 4 - saturated or mono- or monounsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy hydrocarbon radical,
  • R 17 is a methyl, a -C 2 - C 30 - saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C 2 - C 30 - saturated or mono- or multiple unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di-, tri- or polyhydroxy hydrocarbon radical.
  • R 3 and R 4 independently represent:
  • Trihydroxy hydrocarbon radical a group -COOR 14 , where R 14 stands for hydrogen, a methyl, a -C 2 - C 4
  • Hydrocarbon residue a -C 2 - C 4 - saturated mono- or di-unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy hydrocarbon residue,
  • R 17 is a methyl, a -C 2 - C 30 - saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C 2 - C 30 - saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di-, tri- and / or polyhydroxy hydrocarbon radical.
  • radicals R5 and R6 can furthermore be advantageous for the compounds of the formula (I) for the radicals R5 and R6 to stand independently of one another for:
  • Hydroxymethyl radical a -C 2 - C 4 - saturated or mono- or di-unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy hydrocarbon radical, - A group -OR 11 , with R 11 as a -C 2 - C 4 - saturated or mono- or di-unsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, -C 2 - C 4 - saturated or mono- or di-unsaturated, branched or linear Mono-, di- or trihydroxy hydrocarbon residue.
  • dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone is used as the compound corresponding to the formula (I).
  • the active ingredient according to the invention is used in the cosmetic compositions in amounts of 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total composition, preferably in amounts of 0.01 to 5% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 3% by weight. % used.
  • the effect can be increased further using polymers.
  • Polymers are understood to mean both natural and synthetic polymers which can be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic.
  • Cationic polymers are understood to mean polymers which have groups in the main and / or side chain which can be “temporary” or “permanent” cationic.
  • "permanently cationic” means those polymers which have a cationic group regardless of the pH of the agent. These are generally polymers which contain a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group.
  • Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups
  • those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a C j.4 hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain composed of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their derivatives have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • R 18 represents a methyl group
  • R 19 , R 20 and R 21 represent methyl groups m has the value 2.
  • Suitable physiologically compatible counterions X " are, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions.
  • halide ions in particular chloride, are preferred.
  • a particularly suitable homopolymer is the, if desired crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the LNCI name Polyquaternium-37.
  • the crosslinking can be carried out with the aid of melamine olefinically unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylene bisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallyl polyglyceryl ether, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose.
  • Methylene bisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.
  • the homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a non-aqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content below 30% by weight.
  • a non-aqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content below 30% by weight.
  • Such polymer dispersions are available under the names Salcare ® SC 95 (approx. 50% polymer content, further components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene ether (INCI name: PPG-1-Trideceth- 6)) and Salcare ® SC 96 (approx.
  • Copolymers with monomer units according to formula (III) preferably contain acrylamide, methacrylamide, C M alkyl acrylate and C 1 methacrylic acid as nonionic monomer units. 4 alkyl esters. Among these nonionic monomers, acrylamide is particularly preferred. As in the case of the homopolymers described above, these copolymers can also be crosslinked. A preferred copolymer according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer. Such copolymers in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20:80, commercially available as about 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion under the name Salcare ® SC 92nd
  • Celquat ® and Polymer JR ® Quaternized cellulose derivatives, as are commercially available under the names Celquat ® and Polymer JR ® .
  • the compounds Celquat ® H 100, Celquat ® L 200 and Polymer JR ® 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives,
  • honey for example the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50,
  • cationic guar derivatives such as, in particular, the products sold under the trade names Cosmedia ® Guar and Jaguar ® ,
  • - polysiloxanes with quaternary groups such as the commercially available products Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; a stabilized trimethyl silylamodimethicon), Dow Corning ® 929 Emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone which is also known as amodimethicone ), SM-2059 (Manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ® -Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th. Goldschmidt; diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, Quaternium-80),
  • Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate such as, for example, vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers quaternized with diethyl sulfate.
  • Such compounds are available under the names Gafquat ® 734 and Gafquat ® 755 commercially, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl imidazolium copolymers, such as those offered under the names Luviquat ® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552, quaternized polyvinyl alcohol, as well as the under the names Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and
  • Polyquaternium 27 known polymers with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the main polymer chain.
  • cationic polymers are the so-called “temporarily cationic” polymers.
  • These polymers usually contain an amino group which agreed pH values as a quaternary ammonium group and therefore cationic.
  • chitosan and its derivatives such as 101 are freely available commercially, for example under the trade names Hydagen CMF ®, Hydagen HCMF ®, Kytamer ® PC and Chitolam ® NB /.
  • Chitosans are deacetylated chitins that are commercially available in different degrees of deacetylation and different degrees of degradation (molecular weights). Their preparation is described for example in DE 44 40 625 AI and in DE 1 95 03 465 AI.
  • Chitosans which are particularly suitable have a degree of deacetylation of at least 80% and a molecular weight of 5 '10 5 to 5 • 10 6 (g / mol).
  • the chitosan must be converted into the salt form. This can be done by dissolving in dilute aqueous acids.
  • Mineral acids such as e.g. Hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid and phosphoric acid as well as organic acids, e.g. low molecular weight carboxylic acids, polycarboxylic acids and hydroxycarboxylic acids are suitable.
  • Higher molecular weight alkyl sulfonic acids or alkyl sulfuric acids or organophosphoric acids can also be used, provided that they have the required physiological compatibility.
  • Suitable acids for converting the chitosan to the salt form are e.g.
  • Low molecular weight hydroxycarboxylic acids such as e.g. Glycolic acid or lactic acid is used.
  • anionic polymers which can support the action of the active ingredient according to the invention are anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups.
  • anionic monomers from which such polymers can consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.
  • the acidic groups may be present in whole or in part as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt.
  • Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.
  • Anionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole or co-monomer have proven to be very particularly effective, the sulfonic acid group being able to be present in whole or in part as the sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt ,
  • the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid is obtainable for example under the name Rheothik ® 11-80 commercially.
  • copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer are preferred.
  • anionic monomers reference is made to the substances listed above.
  • Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid ester, methacrylic acid ester, vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl ether and vinyl ester.
  • Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with monomers containing sulfonic acid groups.
  • a particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, the sulfonic acid group being wholly or partly as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium Salt is present.
  • This copolymer can also be crosslinked, the crosslinking agents used preferably being polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, AUylsucrose, AUylpentaerythrit and Methylenebisacrylamid.
  • Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ® 305 from SEPPIC.
  • the sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymers sold under the name Simulgel ® 600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate-80 have also proven to be particularly effective according to the invention.
  • anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene can be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ® commercially.
  • Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether are also color-preserving polymers.
  • a cross-linked with 1,9-decadiene maleic acid-methyl vinyl ether copolymer is available under the name Stabileze® ® QM.
  • amphoteric polymers can be used as a component to increase the activity of the active ingredient according to the invention.
  • amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO 3 H groups in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts, and also zwitterionic polymers which contain quaternary ammonium groups and -COO in the molecule Contain " - or -SO 3 " groups, and summarize those polymers which contain -COOH or SO 3 H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.
  • amphopolymer suitable is that available under the Bezeiclmung Amphomer ® acrylic resin which is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group of acrylic acid, Methacrylic acid and its simple esters.
  • Amphoteric polymers which are preferably used are those polymers which essentially consist of one another
  • R 22 -CH CR 23 -CO-Z- (C n H 2n ) -N (+) R 24 R 25 R 26 A ⁇ (IV)
  • R 22 and R 23 independently represent hydrogen or a methyl group and R 24 , R 25 and R 26 independently of one another alkyl groups with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z an NH group or an oxygen atom, n an integer from 2 to 5 and A (_) is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid
  • R 27 and R 28 are independently hydrogen or methyl groups.
  • these compounds can be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralizing the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide.
  • an alkali metal hydroxide for example, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium sulfate sodium salt, sodium salt, sodium salt, sodium salt form, sodium salt form, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide.
  • monomers of type (a) are used, in which R 24 , R 25 and R 26 are methyl groups, Z is an NH group and A ⁇ is a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ion ; Acrylamidopropyl-trimethyl-ammonium chloride is a particularly preferred mono- meres (a).
  • Acrylic acid is preferably used as monomer (
  • the agents according to the invention can furthermore contain nonionic polymers.
  • Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:
  • Vinylpyrrolidone / Vinylester copolymers as are marketed, for example under the trademark Luviskol ® (BASF).
  • Luviskol ® VA 64 and Luviskol ® VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are also preferred nonionic polymers.
  • Cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and methylhydroxypropyl cellulose, as sold for example under the trademark Culminal® ® and Benecel ® (AQUALO ⁇ ). shellac
  • Siloxanes These siloxanes can be both water-soluble and water-insoluble. Both volatile and non-volatile siloxanes are suitable, non-volatile siloxanes being understood to mean those compounds whose boiling point at normal pressure is above 200 ° C.
  • Preferred siloxanes are polydialkylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polydimethylsiloxane, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polyphenylmethylsiloxane, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes and polydialkylsiloxanes which contain amine and / or hydroxyl groups. Glycosidically substituted silicones according to EP 0612759 Bl.
  • the preparations used contain several, in particular two different polymers of the same charge and / or each contain an ionic and an amphoteric and / or non-ionic polymer.
  • polymer is also to be understood as meaning special preparations of polymers, such as spherical polymer powders.
  • Various methods are known for producing such microspheres from different monomers, for example by special polymerization processes or by dissolving the polymer in a solvent and spraying it into a medium in which the solvent can evaporate or diffuse out of the particles. Such a method is known, for example, from EP 466 986 B1.
  • Suitable polymers are, for example, polycarbonates, polyurethanes, polyacrylates, polyolefins, polyesters or polyamides. Spherical polymer powders whose primary particle diameter is less than 1 ⁇ m are particularly suitable. Such products based on a polymethacrylate copolymer are, for example under the trade mark Polytrap ® Q5 6603 (Dow Corning). Other polymer powders, e.g. based on polyamides (nylon 6, nylon 12) are available with a particle size of 2 - 10 ⁇ m (90%) and a specific surface area of approx. 10 m 2 / g under the trade name Orgasol ® 2002 DU Nat Cos ( Atochem SA, Paris) available.
  • spherical polymer powders which are suitable for the purpose according to the invention are, for example, the polymethacrylates (Micropearl M) from SEPPIC or (Plastic Powder A) from NIKKOL, the styrene-divinylbenzene copolymers (Plastic Powder FP) from NIKKOL, the polyethylene and polypropylene - Powder (ACCUREL EP 400) from AKZO, or also silicone polymers (Silicone Powder X2-1605) from Dow Corning or spherical cellulose powder.
  • the polymethacrylates (Micropearl M) from SEPPIC or (Plastic Powder A) from NIKKOL
  • Plastic Powder FP styrene-divinylbenzene copolymers
  • ACCUREL EP 400 polyethylene and polypropylene - Powder
  • silicone polymers Silicone Powder X2-1605
  • the polymers are preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.01 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts from 0.1 to 5, in particular from 0.1 to 3% by weight are particularly preferred.
  • the effect can be further increased by using protein hydrolyzates and their derivatives.
  • Protein hydrolyzates are product mixtures that are obtained by acidic, basic or enzymatically catalyzed breakdown of proteins (proteins).
  • protein hydrolyzates of both vegetable and animal origin can be used.
  • Animal protein hydrolyzates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolyzates, which can also be in the form of salts.
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ® (Cognis), Promois ® (Interorgana), Collapuron ® (Cognis), Nutrilan ® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ® (Deutsche Gelatine Fabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ® (Inolex) and Kerasol ® (Croda) sold.
  • protein hydrolysates of plant origin e.g. B. soy, almond, rice, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolyzates.
  • Such products are available, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ® (Cognis), DiaMin ® (Diamalt), Lexein ® (Inolex) and Crotein ® (Croda).
  • amino acid mixtures or individual amino acids such as arginine, lysine, histidine or pyrroglutamic acid, which have been obtained in some other way, may also be used in their place.
  • derivatives of the protein hydrolyzates for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are sold for example under the names Lamepon ® (Cognis), Gluadin ® (Cognis), Lexein ® (Inolex), Crolastin ® (Croda) or Crotein ® (Croda).
  • Cationized protein hydrolyzates can also be used according to the invention, the underlying protein hydrolyzate being derived from animals, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from plants, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, from marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or algae , or from biotechnologically obtained protein hydrolyzates.
  • the protein hydrolysates on which the cationic derivatives according to the invention are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acidic hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis.
  • the hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate with a molecular weight distribution of approximately 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons.
  • Such cationic ones are preferred Protein hydrolysates, the underlying protein portion of which has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons.
  • Cationic protein hydrolyzates also include quaternized amino acids and their mixtures. The quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or the amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as, for example, N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides.
  • the cationic protein hydrolyzates can also be further derivatized.
  • inventive cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives are under the INCI - th names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook" (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 Street, NW, Suite 300 , Washington, DC 20036-4702) and commercially available products: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / My
  • the agents used according to the invention contain the protein hydrolyzates and their derivatives in amounts of 0.01-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 3% by weight, are very particularly preferred.
  • the agents according to the invention contain surfactants.
  • surfactants is understood to mean surface-active substances which carry an anionic or cationic charge in the molecule. Both an anionic and a cationic charge can also be present in the molecule. These zwitterionic or amphoteric surface-active substances can also be used according to the invention. Furthermore, the surface-active substances can also be non-ionic.
  • Suitable anionic surfactants in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surface-active substances suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. B. a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group with about 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • anionic group such as. B. a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group with about 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups can be in the molecule be included.
  • suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts with 2 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkanol group,
  • Alkyl group with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x 0 or 1 to 16,
  • Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x -OSO 3 H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group with 8 to 30 C atoms and x 0 or 1 to 12,
  • Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
  • OX in R 29 preferably for an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical with 8 to 30
  • R 30 for hydrogen, a radical (CH 2 CH 2 O) n R 29 or X, n for
  • Hydrocarbon radical stands, sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of the formula (VII)
  • R 35 CO (AlkO) n SO 3 M (VII) in R 35 CO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical with 6 to 22 C atoms, alk for CH 2 CH 2 , CHCH 3 CH 2 and / or
  • n stands for numbers from 0.5 to 5 and M stands for a cation, as described in DE
  • R 36 CO stands for a linear or branched acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z in total for 0 or for numbers from 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X stands for an alkali or alkaline earth metal.
  • Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride as well as their ethylene oxide adducts or their formulated with sulfuric acid trioxide.
  • Monoglyceride sulfates of the formula (VIII) are preferably used, in which R 36 CO represents a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • R 36 CO represents a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates are described, for example, in EP-Bl 0 561 825, EP-Bl 0 561 999, DE-Al 42 04 700 or from AKBiswas et al. in J.Am.Oil.Chem.Soc. 37, 171 (1960) and FUAhmed in J.Am.Oil.Chem.Soc. 67, 8 (1990).
  • Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule xmd monosulfonic acid and dialkyl esters with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkylpolyoxyethyl ester with 8 up to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO (_) - or -SO 3 (_) group in the molecule.
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut alkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut acylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2- Alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethyl hydroxyethyl carboxymethyl glycinate.
  • a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known
  • Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C 8 -C 24 alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO 3 H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts .
  • suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycine, N-alkylpropionic acid, N-alkylaminobutyric acid, N- alkyliminodipropionic acid, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine, N-
  • Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylamino propionate and C, 2 -C ] 8 -acylsarcosine.
  • Nonionic surfactants contain z as a hydrophilic group.
  • alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula R 37 CO- (OCH 2 CHR 38 ) w OR 39 , (IX), in which R 37 CO for a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R 38 for hydrogen or methyl, R 39 represents linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w represents numbers from 1 to 20,
  • Sorbitan fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as, for example, the polysorbates, - sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters,
  • alkyl polygycosides according to the general formula RO- (Z) x where R is alkyl, Z is sugar and x is the number of sugar units.
  • the alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention may contain only one specific alkyl radical R. Usually, however, these compounds are made from natural fats and oils or mineral oils. In this case, the alkyl radicals R are mixtures corresponding to the starting compounds or corresponding to the respective working up of these compounds.
  • Any mono- or oligosaccharides can be used as sugar building block Z.
  • Sugar with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides are usually used.
  • sugars are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, old rose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose.
  • Preferred sugar units are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.
  • the alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain an average of 1.1 to 5 sugar inputs. Alkyl polyglycosides with x values from 1.1 to 2.0 are preferred. Alkyl glycosides in which x is 1.1 to 1.8 are very particularly preferred.
  • the alkoxylated homologs of the alkyl polyglycosides mentioned can also be used according to the invention. These homologues can contain an average of up to 10 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units per alkyl glycoside unit.
  • alkylene oxide adducts with saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids, each with 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid, have proven to be preferred nonionic surfactants. Preparations with excellent properties are also obtained if they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants.
  • the alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and can be either linear or branched. Primary linear and methyl-branched aliphatic radicals in the 2-position are preferred. Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. 1-Octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lax ⁇ ryl, 1-myristyl are particularly preferred. When using so-called "oxo alcohols" as starting materials, compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.
  • the compounds with alkyl groups used as surfactant can each be uniform substances. However, it is generally preferred to start from natural vegetable or animal raw materials in the production of these substances, so that substance mixtures with different alkyl chain lengths depending on the respective raw material are obtained.
  • both products with a "normal” homolog distribution and those with a narrowed homolog distribution can be used.
  • “Normal” homolog distribution is understood to mean mixtures of homologues which are obtained as catalysts when fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide are reacted using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates. narrowed In contrast, homolog distributions are obtained if, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates are used as catalysts. The use of products with a narrow homolog distribution can be preferred.
  • surfactants are used in amounts of 0.1-45% by weight, preferably 1-30% by weight and very particularly preferably 1-15% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • nonionic, zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof can be preferred.
  • Cationic surfactants of the type of the quaternary ammonium compounds, the esterquats and the amidoamines can also be used according to the invention.
  • Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g. B.
  • cetyltrimethylammonium chloride stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonixxmchloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, and the compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83 Imidazolium-83.
  • the long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element.
  • Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines.
  • Such products are sold, for example, under the trademarks Stepantex ® , Dehyquart ® xmd Armocare ® .
  • the products Armocare ® VGH-70, an N, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart ® F-75, Dehyquart ® C-4046, Dehyquart ® L80 and Dehyquart ® AU-35 are examples of such esterquats .
  • the alkylamidoamines are usually produced by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines.
  • An inventively particularly suitable compound from this group is that available under the name Tegoamid ® S 18 commercially stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.
  • the cationic surfactants are preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5% by weight are particularly preferred.
  • the action of the active ingredient according to the invention can be increased by emulsifiers.
  • emulsifiers are, for example
  • alkyl (oligo) glucosides for example the commercially available product Montanov ® 68,
  • Partial esters of polyols with 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids with 8 to 22 C atoms Sterols.
  • Sterols are understood to be a group of steroids which carry a hydroxyl group on the C atom 3 of the steroid structure and both from an animal
  • Tissues as well as vegetable fats (phytosterols) can be isolated.
  • zoosterols examples are cholesterol and lanosterol.
  • suitable phytosterols examples include ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol.
  • Sterols, the so-called mycosterols, are also isolated from fungi and yeasts.
  • Phospholipids include primarily the glucose phospholipids, e.g. as
  • Lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from e.g. Egg yolk or plant seeds e.g.
  • Soybeans are understood.
  • Polyglycerols and polyglycerol such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls® ® PGPH)
  • compositions according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1-25% by weight, in particular 0.5-15% by weight, based on the total composition.
  • compositions according to the invention can preferably contain at least one nonionic emulsifier with an HLB value of 8 to 18, according to the 10th edition, Georg Thieme Verlag Stuttgart, New York, in Römpp-Lexikon Chemie (Ed. J. Falbe, M. Regitz). (1997), page 1764, contain the definitions listed.
  • Nonionic emulsifiers with an HLB value of 10-15 can be particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • the emulsifiers which contain no ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide in the molecule can be very particularly preferred.
  • the action of the active ingredient according to the invention can be further optimized by fatty substances.
  • Under Fat substances are to be understood as fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes, which can be present both in solid form and in liquid form in aqueous dispersion, and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components.
  • Linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms can be used as fatty acids.
  • Fatty acids with 10-22 carbon atoms are preferred.
  • isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ® 871 and Emersol ® 875
  • isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ® (Cognis) fatty acids.
  • fatty acids are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, galeolearic acid, elaoleolic acid, elemaoleic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures, the z. B.
  • fatty acid cuts which are obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil are usually particularly preferred; the use of stearic acid is generally particularly preferred.
  • the amount used is 0.1-15% by weight, based on the total agent. In a preferred embodiment, the amount is 0.5-10% by weight, with amounts of 1-5% by weight being very particularly advantageous.
  • Saturated, mono- or melamically unsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C 6 -C 30 , preferably C 10 -C 22 and very particularly preferably C ] 2 -C 22 carbon atoms can be used as fatty alcohols.
  • the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, and it can usually be assumed that they are obtained from the esters of the fatty acids by reduction.
  • those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reducing naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sorine flower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols.
  • Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ® , for example Stenol ® 1618 or Lanette ® , for example Lanette ® O or Lorol ® , for example Lorol ® C8, Lorol ® C14, Lorol ® C18, Lorol ® C8-18, HD-Ocenol ® , Crodacol ® , e.g.
  • the invention also wool wax alcohols, as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ®, White Swan ®, Coronet ® or Fluilan ® can be used.
  • the fatty alcohols are used in amounts of 0.1-20% by weight, based on the entire preparation, preferably in amounts of 0.1-10% by weight.
  • Solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, walnut, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes made of PE or PP can be used according to the invention as natural or synthetic waxes.
  • Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.
  • the natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies which can increase the effect of the active ingredient according to the invention include, for example:
  • oils examples include sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil,
  • Rapeseed oil almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid components of coconut oil.
  • triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow and synthetic triglyceride oils are also suitable.
  • the compounds are available as commercial products l, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ® S) xmd di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ® OE) may be preferred.
  • Ester oils are understood to be the esters of C 6 -C 30 fatty acids with C 2 -C 30 fatty alcohols.
  • the monoesters of fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred.
  • Examples of fatty acid moieties in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-Ethylhexansäxxre, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, Gadoleinsäxxre, behenic acid and Erucic acid and its technical mixtures, which occur, for example, in the cleavage of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's, cap
  • fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, capron alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaol alcohol, elaol alcohol, elaol alcohol, elaol alcohol Gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, which are obtained, for example, in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols.
  • isopropyl myristate IPM Rilanit ®
  • isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester Cetiol ® SN
  • 2-ethylhexyl palmitate Cegesoft ® 24
  • stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester Cetiol ® 868
  • cetyl oleate glycerol tricaprylate
  • coconut fatty alcohol caprinate / caprylate Cetiol ® LC
  • n-butyl stearate olerlerucate
  • isopropyl palmitate Rosanit ® IPP
  • oleyl oleate Cetiol ®
  • hexyl laurate Cetiol ® A
  • di-n-butyl adipate Cetiol ® B
  • myristyl myristate IPM Rilanit ®
  • Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and diisotridecylacelate as well as diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2 -ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol di-isostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol di-isostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate,
  • Mono, - di- and trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerin such as Monomuls ® 90-018, Monomuls ® 90-L12 or Cutina ® MD.
  • the amount used is 0.1-50% by weight, based on the total agent, preferably 0.1
  • the total amount of oil and fat components in the agents according to the invention is usually 6-45% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 10-35% by weight are preferred according to the invention.
  • hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are full esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid.
  • Other basically suitable hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are esters of ⁇ -hydroxypropionic acid, tartronic acid, D-gluconic acid, sugar acid, mucic acid or glucuronic acid.
  • Suitable alcohol components of these esters are primary, linear or branched aliphatic alcohols with 8-22 carbon atoms, for example fatty alcohols or synthetic fatty alcohols.
  • esters of C 12 -C 15 fatty alcohols is particularly preferred.
  • Esters of this type are commercially available, eg under the trademark Cosmacol® ® EniChem, Augusta Industriale.
  • the amount of hydroxycarboxylic acid esters used is 0.1-15% by weight, based on the composition, preferably 0.1-10% by weight and very particularly preferably 0.1-5% by weight.
  • Vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors which are usually assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H are preferred according to the invention.
  • the group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A j ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A 2 ).
  • the ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol.
  • vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as palmitate and acetate are suitable as vitamin A components.
  • the preparations used according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the entire preparation.
  • the vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include u. a.
  • Vitamin B 2 (riboflavin)
  • Vitamin B 3 The compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often listed under this name. According to the invention, preference is given to nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • Vitamin B 5 pantothenic acid xmd panthenol
  • panthenol is preferably used.
  • Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, as well as those in the cationic panthenol derivatives disclosed in WO 92/13829.
  • the compounds of the vitamin B 5 type mentioned are preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5% by weight are particularly preferred.
  • Vitamin B 6 pyridoxine as well as pyridoxamine and pyridoxal.
  • Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 3% by weight, based on the total agent. Use in the form of the palmitic acid ester, the glucosides or phosphates can be preferred. Use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.
  • Vitamin E tocopherols, especially ⁇ -tocopherol.
  • Tocopherol and its derivatives which include in particular the esters such as acetate, nicotinate, phosphate and succinate, are preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent ,
  • Vitamin F usually means essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
  • Vitamin H The compound (3aS, 4S, 6ai?) - 2-oxohexa- hydrothienol [3,4-_] -imidazole-4-valeric acid is referred to as vitamin H, but for which the trivial name biotin has now become established.
  • Biotin is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
  • the agents used according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H.
  • Panthenol and its derivatives as well as nicotinamide and biotin are particularly preferred.
  • the effect of the active ingredient can also be increased by the combined use with plant extracts.
  • extracts are usually produced by extracting the entire plant. In individual cases, however, it may also be preferred to produce the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.
  • the extracts from green tea, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi and melon are particularly suitable for the use according to the invention.
  • Alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used as extractants for the production of the plant extracts mentioned.
  • the alcohols are included lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as the sole extractant and in a mixture with water, are preferred.
  • Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • the plant extracts can be used both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in dilute form, they usually contain about 2 to 80% by weight of active substance and, as a solvent, the extractant or mixture of extractants used in their extraction.
  • mixtures of several, in particular two, different plant extracts in the agents according to the invention may be preferred.
  • the effect of the active ingredient according to the invention in cosmetic compositions in 'combination with substances which contain primary or secondary amino groups can be further increased.
  • amino compounds are ammonia, monoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-propanediol and basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine or histidine.
  • these amines can also be used in the form of the corresponding salts with inorganic and / or organic acids, for example as ammonium carbonate, ammonium citrate, ammonium oxalate, ammonium tartrate or lysine hydrochloride.
  • the amines are used together with the active ingredient according to the invention in ratios of 1:10 to 10: 1, preferably 3: 1 to 1: 3 and very particularly preferably in stoichiometric amounts.
  • these preparations can in principle contain all further components known to the person skilled in the art for such cosmetic compositions.
  • auxiliaries and additives are, for example: - Thickeners such as gelatin or vegetable gums, for example agar agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. As methyl cellulose, hydroxyalkyl cellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays and layered silicates such as.
  • B. bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such.
  • Structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid
  • Solvents and intermediates such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol,
  • active ingredients that improve fiber structure in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as, for example, glucose, galactose, fructose, freight sugar and lactose, quaternized amines such as methyl 1-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium methosulfate,
  • Anti-dandruff agents such as piroctone olamine, zinc omadine and climbazol,
  • Light stabilizers in particular derivatized benzophenones, cinnamic acid derivatives and triazines,
  • Active ingredients such as allantoin and bisabolol, cholesterol, and others.
  • Ceramides are understood to mean N-acylsphingosine (fatty acid amides of sphingosine) or synthetic analogs of such lipids (so-called pseudo-ceramides),
  • Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers
  • Pearlescent agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3 distearate, pigments,
  • Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO 2 and air, antioxidants,
  • the active ingredient according to the invention is applied to the keratin fiber, in particular human hair, and to the skin.
  • preparations include, for example, creams, lotions, solutions, water, emulsions such as W / O, O / W, PIT emulsions (emulsions based on the teaching of phase inversion, PIT), microemulsions and multiple emulsions, coarse, unstable, single or multi-phase shake mixes, gels, sprays, aerosols and foam aerosols are suitable.
  • emulsions such as W / O, O / W
  • PIT emulsions emulsions based on the teaching of phase inversion, PIT
  • microemulsions and multiple emulsions coarse, unstable, single or multi-phase shake mixes
  • gels, sprays, aerosols and foam aerosols are suitable.
  • These are usually formulated on an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic basis.
  • Lower alkanols and polyols such as propylene glycol and glycerol are used as the alcoholic component.
  • Ethanol xmd isopropanol are preferred alcohols.
  • Water and alcohol can be present in the aqueous alcoholic base in a weight ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1.
  • Water and aqueous-alcoholic mixtures up to 50 % By weight, in particular up to 25% by weight, of alcohol, based on the alcohol / water mixture, can be preferred bases according to the invention.
  • the pH of these preparations can in principle be between 2 and 11. It is preferably between 2 and 7, values from 3 to 5 being particularly preferred. Virtually any acid or base that can be used for cosmetic purposes can be used to adjust this pH.
  • Food acids are usually used as acids.
  • Edible acids are understood to mean those acids which are taken up as part of the normal absorption of nutrients and which have positive effects on the human organism. Edible acids are, for example, acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, malic acid, ascorbic acid and gluconic acid. In the context of the invention, the use of citric acid and lactic acid is particularly preferred.
  • Preferred bases are ammonia, alkali metal hydroxides, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine and N, N, N ', N' tetrakis (2-hydroxypropyl) ethylenediamine.
  • Preparations remaining on the skin and hair have proven to be particularly effective and can therefore represent preferred embodiments of the teaching according to the invention. Remaining on the skin and the hair are understood according to the invention to mean those preparations which are not rinsed off or rinsed out of the skin or from the hair again in the course of the treatment after a period of from a few seconds to an hour using water or an aqueous solution , Rather, the preparations remain on the skin or hair until the next wash.
  • these preparations are formulated as a hair treatment or hair conditioner.
  • the preparations according to the invention according to this embodiment can be rinsed out with water or an at least predominantly water-containing agent after this exposure time has elapsed; however, as stated above, they are preferably left on the hair. It may be preferable to apply the preparation according to the invention to the hair before applying a cleaning agent, a waving agent or other hair treatment agents applied. In this case, the preparation according to the invention serves as color protection for the subsequent applications.
  • the agents according to the invention can also be, for example, cleansing agents for skin and hair, such as shampoos, makeup removers, facial cleansers, nourishing agents for skin and hair, such as douches, day creams, night creams, face masks, or firming agents for the skin
  • cleansing agents for skin and hair such as shampoos, makeup removers, facial cleansers
  • nourishing agents for skin and hair such as douches, day creams, night creams, face masks, or firming agents for the skin
  • hair such as hair setting agents, foam setting agents, styling gels and blow dryer waves
  • permanent shaping agents such as permanent wave and fixing agents
  • pre-treatment agents or rinsing agents used in the course of a permanent wave process or dyeing process such as pre-treatment agents or rinsing agents used in the course of a permanent wave process or dyeing process.
  • microemulsions are also understood to be so-called “PIT” emulsions.
  • PIT phase inversion temperature
  • these emulsions are systems with the 3 components water, oil and emulsifier, which at room temperature act as oil-in-water (O / W)
  • O / W oil-in-water
  • PIT phase inversion temperature
  • O / W emulsions are again formed, but these are also present at room temperature as microemulsions with an average particle diameter of less than 400 nm, in particular with a particle diameter of about 100-300 am. Details regarding these very stable, low-viscosity systems, for which the term “PIT emulsions” has become generally accepted, can be found in a large number of publications, for which the publications in Angew. Chem. 97, 655-669 (1985) and Adv. Colloid Interface Sei 58, 119-149 (1995).
  • micro- or “PIT” emulsions can be preferred which have an average particle diameter of approximately 200 nm.
  • the microemulsions according to the invention can be prepared, for example, by first determining the phase inversion temperature of the system by heating a sample of the emulsion prepared in the customary manner and using a conductivity meter to determine the temperature at which the conductivity decreases sharply.
  • the decrease in the specific conductivity of the O / W emulsion initially present generally decreases over a temperature range of 2 to 8 ° C from originally more than 1 mS / cm to values below 0.1 mS / cm. This temperature range then corresponds to the phase inversion temperature range.
  • the emulsion initially prepared as usual, of oil component, nonionic emulsifier, at least parts of the water and optionally further components can be heated to a temperature which is within or above the phase inversion temperature range, then cooled xmd if necessary add other components as well as the remaining water.
  • the microemulsion can also be produced directly at a temperature which is within or above the phase inversion temperature range. The microemulsion thus produced is then cooled to a temperature below the phase inversion temperature range, usually room temperature.
  • the active ingredient is used in agents for dyeing keratin fibers.
  • the active ingredient according to the invention can be added directly to the colorant.
  • the active substance is preferably applied to the dyed keratin fiber in a separate step either directly after the actual dyeing process or in separate treatments, if appropriate also days or weeks after the dyeing process.
  • the term dyeing process includes all processes known to the person skilled in the art, in which a dye is applied to the optionally moistened hair and either left on the hair for a time between a few minutes and about 45 minutes and then with water or a surfactant-containing agent rinsed will or will be left entirely on the hair.
  • a dye is applied to the optionally moistened hair and either left on the hair for a time between a few minutes and about 45 minutes and then with water or a surfactant-containing agent rinsed will or will be left entirely on the hair.
  • it is expressly referred to the known monographs, e.g. B. Kh. Schrader, Fundamentals and Recipes of Cosmetics, 2nd edition, Hüthig Buch Verlag, Heidelberg, 1989, referring to the corresponding knowledge of the expert.
  • composition of the dye or tint is not subject to any principle
  • Oxidation dye pre-products of the developer and coupler type
  • Suitable developer components are, for example, p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, p-aminophenol, o-aminophenol, 1 - (2'-hydroxyethyl) - 2,5-diaminobenzene, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) ) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (2,5-diamino-phenoxy) -ethanol, 4-amino-3-methyl ⁇ henol, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2-dimethylamino-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxymethylamino-4-aminophenol, bis- (4th -aminophenyl) amine, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 2-amin
  • B. 4,5-diamino-l- (2'-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole Particularly advantageous developer components are p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, p-aminophenol, 1- (2 '-hydroxyethyl) -2, 5 -diaminobenzene, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2-aminomethyl-4-aminophenol, 2, 4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5, 6-triaminopyrimidine.
  • developer components are p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, p-aminophenol, 1- (2 '-hydroxyethyl) -2, 5 -diaminobenzene, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2-aminomethyl-4-aminophenol, 2, 4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6
  • M-Phenylenediamine derivatives, naphthols, resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones and m-aminophenol derivatives are generally used as oxidation dye precursors of the coupler type.
  • coupler components are m-aminophenol and its derivatives such as 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 5- (3-hydroxypropylamino) -2-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydoxy -4-aminophenoxyethanol, 2,6-dimethyl-3-aminophenol, 3-
  • Di- or trihydroxybenzene derivatives such as resorcinol, resorcinol monomethyl ether, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, 2-chlororresorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, pyrogallol and 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene, pyridine derivatives such as 2,6 -Dihydroxypyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2-amino-5-chloro-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 2,6 dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxypyridine and 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine,
  • Naphthalene derivatives such as 1-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxymethyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxyethyl-1-naphthol, 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,6-dihydroxy-naphthalene, 1, 7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,8-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxy-naphthalene and 2,3-dihydroxynaphthalene,
  • Morpholine derivatives such as 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine and 6-amino-benzomorpholine,
  • Pyrazole derivatives such as, for example, l-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one,
  • Indole derivatives such as 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole and 7-hydroxyindole,
  • Methylenedioxybenzene derivatives such as, for example, l-hydroxy-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, l-amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene and l- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene,
  • coupler components are 1-naphthol, 1,5-, 2,7- and 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, resorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2-chloro-6-methyl-3-aminophenol, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol and 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine.
  • Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols.
  • Particularly suitable direct dyes are those with the international names or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, Basic Yellow 57, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 3, HC Red BN, Basic Red 76, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, Basic Blue 99, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17 known compounds as well as 1,4-bis- (ß- hydroxyethyl) - amino-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-2-nitrodiphenylamine-2 '-carboxylic acid, 6-nitro-l, 2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, hydroxyethyl-2-nitro-toluidine, picramic acid, 2-amino- 6-chloro-4- nitrophenol, 4-ethylamin
  • Directly occurring dyes found in nature include, for example, henna red, hemia neutral, henna black, chamomile flowers, sandalwood, black tea, rotten tree bark, sage, blue wood, madder root, catechu, sedre and alkanna root.
  • the hair colorants according to the invention may contain minor components in minor amounts, provided that these do not adversely affect the coloring result or for other reasons, e.g. B. toxicological, must be excluded.
  • indoles and indolines and their physiologically tolerable salts are used as precursors of nature-analogous dyes.
  • Those indoles and indolines are preferably used which have at least one hydroxyl or amino group, preferably as a substituent on the six-membered ring.
  • These groups may have further substituents, e.g. B. in the form of etherification or esterification of the hydroxy group or an alkylation of the amino group.
  • N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline and especially that 5,6-dihydroxyindoline and N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole and in particular the 5 6-dihydroxyindole.
  • indoline and indole derivatives in the colorants used in the process according to the invention both as free bases and in the form of their physiologically tolerable salts with inorganic or organic acids, for.
  • amino acids are amino carboxylic acids, especially ⁇ -amino carboxylic acids and ⁇ -amino carboxylic acids.
  • Arginine, lysine, ornithine xmd histidine are again particularly preferred among the ⁇ -aminocarboxylic acids.
  • a very particularly preferred amino acid is arginine, in particular in free form, but also used as a hydrocliloride.
  • Hair colorants especially if the coloring is oxidative, be it with atmospheric oxygen or other oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide, are usually set to slightly acidic to alkaline, ie to pH values in the range from about 5 to 11.
  • the colorants contain alkalizing agents, usually alkali or alkaline earth metal hydroxides, ammonia or organic amines.
  • Alkalizing agents are monoethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-l, 3-propanediol, 2-amino-2-ethyl-l, 3-propanediol, 2-amino-2- methylbutanol and triethanolamine as well as alkali and alkaline earth metal hydroxides.
  • Monoethanolamine, triethanolamine and 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol and 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol are particularly preferred in this group.
  • the use of ⁇ -amino acids such as ⁇ -aminocaproic acid as an alkalizing agent is also possible.
  • customary oxidizing agents such as in particular hydrogen peroxide or its adducts with urea, melamine or sodium borate, can be used.
  • oxidation with atmospheric oxygen as the only oxidizing agent can be preferred. It is also possible to carry out the oxidation with the aid of enzymes, the enzymes being used both to produce oxidizing compounds and to enhance the action of a small amount of oxidizing agents present, or else enzymes to release the electrons from suitable developer components (reducing agents) Transmit atmospheric oxygen.
  • Oxidases such as tyrosinase, ascorbate oxidase and laccase are preferred, but also glucose oxidase, uricase or pyravate oxidase. Furthermore, the procedure should be mentioned to increase the effect of small amounts (e.g. 1% and less, based on the total agent) of hydrogen peroxide by peroxidases.
  • the preparation of the oxidizing agent is then expediently mixed with the preparation with the dye precursors immediately before dyeing the hair.
  • the resulting ready-to-use hair dye preparation should preferably have a pH in the range from 6 to 10. It is particularly preferred to use the hair dye in a weakly alkaline environment.
  • the application temperatures can be in a range between 15 and 40 ° C., preferably at the temperature of the scalp. After an exposure time of approximately 5 to 45, in particular 15 to 30, minutes, the hair dye is rinsed off the hair to be colored.
  • the Washing with a shampoo is not necessary if a carrier with a high tenside content, e.g. B. a coloring shampoo was used.
  • the preparation with the dye precursors can be applied to the hair without prior mixing with the oxidation component. After an exposure time of 20 to 30 minutes, the oxidation component is then applied, if necessary after an intermediate rinse. After a further exposure time of 10 to 20 minutes, rinsing is then carried out and, if desired, re-shampooing.
  • the corresponding agent is adjusted to a pH of about 4 to 7.
  • air oxidation is initially aimed for, the agent applied preferably having a pH of 7 to 10. In the subsequent accelerated postoxidation, the use of acidified peroxidisulfate solutions as the oxidizing agent can be preferred.
  • the formation of the color can be supported and increased by adding certain metal ions to the agent.
  • metal ions are, for example, Zn + , Cu 2+ , Fe 2+ , Fe 3+ , Mn 2+ , Mn + , Li + , Mg 2+ , Ca 2+ and Al 3+ .
  • Zn 2+ , Cu 2+ and Mn 2+ are particularly suitable.
  • the metal ions can be used in the form of any physiologically acceptable salt.
  • Preferred salts are the acetates, sulfates, halides, lactates and tartrates.
  • the active ingredient according to the invention can also be used in products for cleaning surfaces such as glass, porcelain, plastic, textiles, leather, lacquer or wood.
  • the active ingredient is particularly suitable, for example, for use in manual and machine dishwashing detergents, glass cleaners, bathroom and toilet cleaners, and floor cleaners and care products. Examples
  • CETIOL HE ® (Cognis) polyol fatty acid esters Glyceryl PEG -7 3.0
  • EMULGADE ® SE mixture of glyceryl stearate (and) 4.0
  • CETIOL ® LC (Cognis) caprylic / Coco-Caprylate / caprate 5.0
  • Viscosity (mPas), Brook.RVF, 23 ° C, Sp.TE, 4 rpm, 150000 with Helipath Rich night care ingredient Chemical name INCI name% by weight
  • LANETTE ® O cetylstearyl alcohol Cetearyl Alcohol 4.0
  • CETIOL ® J 600 Liquid wax ester oleyl erucate 4.0
  • CETIOL ® V oleic acid decyl ester Decyl Oleate 4.0
  • CETIOL ® OE Di-n-octyl ether Dicaprylyl Ether 4.0 Myritol ® 318 (Cognis) caprylic / Caprylic / Capric 3.5
  • CETIOL ® OE (Cognis) Di-n-octyl ether Dicaprylyl Ether 5.0
  • Zinc stearate (Bärlocher) Zinc stearate 1.0
  • Viscosity (mPas), Brookfield RVF, 23 ° C, spindle TE, 4 rpm, with Helipath approx. 200000
  • Zincum ® N 29 (from zinc stearate Zinc Stearate 1.0
  • CETIOL ® OE (Cognis) Di-n-octyl ether Dicaprylyl Ether 3.0
  • Viscosity mPas
  • Brookfield RVF
  • spindle TE Spindle TE
  • Helipath 150000 Naturally toning day cream
  • CETIOL ® OE di-n-octyl ether dicaprylyl ether 5.0 Grape Seed Oil Grape Seed Oil 0.5 Copherol ® 1250 RRR- ( ⁇ ) -tocopheryl acetate tocopheryl acetate 1.0 (Cognis)
  • Vitamin A palmitate 0.2 titanium dioxide 1.0 talc 1.0 glycerin 86% 5.0 Water ad 100
  • Viscosity mPas
  • Brookfield RVF, 23 ° C, spindle TE, 4
  • EUTANOL ® G (Cognis) 2-octyldodecanol octyldodecanol 17.0 (Guerbet alcohol)
  • Viscosity (mPas), Brookfield RVT, 23 ° C, Sp.TC, 10 rpm 3600
  • CETIOL ® S (Cognis) hydrocarbon dioctylcyclohexane 9.0
  • CETIOL ® OE Cognis di-n-octyl ether dicaprylyl ether 9.0
  • Dow Corning DC 345 ® Cyclometliicone 2.0 (Dow Corning) 2,5-dihydro-5- methoxy-2,0 2-furanone (Merck)
  • LANETTE ® O (Cognis) Cetylstearyl Alcohol Cetearyl Alcohol 3.0
  • EUTANOL ® G (Cognis) 2-octyldodecanol octyldodecanol 0.2 (Guerbet alcohol)
  • CETIOL ® J 600 (Cognis) liquid wax ester oleyl erucate 0.1
  • Viscosity mPas
  • Brookfield RVF 23 ° C, spindle 5, 10 rpm 6800
  • CETIOL ® J 600 (Cognis) liquid wax ester oleyl erucate 0.5
  • Viscosity mPas
  • Brookfield RVF 23 ° C
  • spindle 4 10 rpm 6700
  • Dehyquart ® L 80 (Cognis) mixture of esterquat dicocoylethyl 0.9 and propylene glycol (approx. Hydroxyethylmonium
  • LANETTE ® O (Cognis) Cetylstearyl Alcohol Cetearyl Alcohol 4.0
  • LANETTE ® O (Cognis) Cetylstearyl Alcohol Cetearyl Alcohol 4.0
  • LAMESOFT ® PO 65 Mixture of Coco-Glucoside (and) 2,5 (Cognis) alkyl polyglycoside and Glyceryl Oleate fatty acid monoglyceride
  • Viscosity (mPas), Brook.RVF, 23 ° C, spindle 4, 10 rpm 4400
  • CETIOL ® V (Cognis) oleic acid decyl ester Decyl Oleate 5.0
  • Viscosity (mPas), Brookfield RFT, 23 ° C, column 4, 10 rpm 6300 5. Conditioning shampoo
  • Viscosity (mPas), Brookfield RVF, 23 ° C, spindle 4, 10 rpm 8500 6. Baby shampoo
  • Viscosity (mPas), Brookfield RVF, 23 ° C, spindle 4, 10 rpm 3900
  • Viscosity (mPas), Brook.RVF, 23 ° C, spindle 4, 101 Qpm 4100
  • Eumulgin ® O10 (Cognis) polyoxyethylene 10 oleyl cetyl alcohol 1.0 oleth-10
  • PLANTACARE ® 818 UP C 8 - C 16 fatty alcohol coco glucoside 9.0 glycoside (approx. 50%)
  • EMULGADE ® SE mixture of PartialGlyceryl Stearate (and) 6.0
  • EUTANOL ® G (Cognis) 2-octyldodecanol octyldodecanol 7.0 (Guerbet alcohol)
  • CETIOL ® 868 (Cognis) isooctyl Octyl Stearate 8.0
  • Viscosity (mPas), Brookfield RVF, 23 ° C, spindle. 5, 10 rpm 8,000
  • COGNIS Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
  • CTFA name Glycol Distearate (and) Glycerin (and) Laureth-

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne l'utilisation de produits cosmétiques comprenant des dérivés de 2-furanone, pour traiter la peau et les cheveux.
EP01938136A 2000-05-06 2001-04-28 Produit cosmetique comprenant des derives de 2-furanone Withdrawn EP1280496A2 (fr)

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DE10022077 2000-05-06
DE10022077A DE10022077A1 (de) 2000-05-06 2000-05-06 Kosmetisches Mittel enthaltend 2-Furanonderivate
PCT/EP2001/004822 WO2001085106A2 (fr) 2000-05-06 2001-04-28 Produit cosmetique comprenant des derives de 2-furanone

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JP2003532658A (ja) 2003-11-05
US6858216B2 (en) 2005-02-22
WO2001085106A2 (fr) 2001-11-15
DE10022077A1 (de) 2001-11-08
CA2407962A1 (fr) 2001-11-15
KR20030005326A (ko) 2003-01-17
US20030206933A1 (en) 2003-11-06
PL357423A1 (en) 2004-07-26
WO2001085106A3 (fr) 2002-08-01
AU2001263873A1 (en) 2001-11-20

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