EP1392398A2 - Preparation cosmetique et dermatologique destinee a la regulation et a l'elimination de sebum - Google Patents

Preparation cosmetique et dermatologique destinee a la regulation et a l'elimination de sebum

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Publication number
EP1392398A2
EP1392398A2 EP02727600A EP02727600A EP1392398A2 EP 1392398 A2 EP1392398 A2 EP 1392398A2 EP 02727600 A EP02727600 A EP 02727600A EP 02727600 A EP02727600 A EP 02727600A EP 1392398 A2 EP1392398 A2 EP 1392398A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
polyethylene glycol
cyclodextrin
weight
aluminum
sebum
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP02727600A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Heiner Max
Jens Nielsen
Thomas Raschke
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Beiersdorf AG
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf AG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Beiersdorf AG filed Critical Beiersdorf AG
Publication of EP1392398A2 publication Critical patent/EP1392398A2/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/008—Preparations for oily skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/26—Aluminium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/28—Zirconium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/738—Cyclodextrins
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A61P17/10—Anti-acne agents
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/008—Preparations for oily hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/006—Antidandruff preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the use of topical preparations for removing sebum from the skin, in particular for removing and clarifying comedones, for preventing comedone formation, for the prophylaxis and treatment of mild forms of acne, and for the prophylaxis and control of seborrhea.
  • Sebum is the secretion of the sebum gland. Sebaceous glands are bulges of the follicular epithelium and thus part of the follicle with which they form a functional unit. They are holocrine glands, which means that the entire glandular cell is largely converted into the sebum secretion. The cells of the sebum gland, which are constantly renewed from below, grease and decay, and the skin sebum formed in this way is emptied onto the surface of the skin through the follicle openings. According to G. Leonardy (J.Ft. Jellinek Cosmetology, Purpose and Structure of Cosmetic Preparations, Dr.
  • the skin sebum consists of mono -, Di- and triglycerides (Co-C. ⁇ ), waxes (C.6-C 26 ), wax esters (C 2 8-C 3 8), normal saturated fatty acids (Cio-Ci ⁇ ), branched chain saturated fatty acids (Cn- Cs), polybranched-chain saturated fatty acids (C13-C18), monounsaturated fatty acids (Cn-C. ⁇ ), polyunsaturated fatty acids (C13, C15-C17), sterols (cholesterol, 7-dehydrocholesterol, 7-hydroxycholesterol), branched and unbranched hydrocarbons (C3o-C 4 o), squalene and phospholipids.
  • the lipids of the sebum gland form the so-called hydro-lipid film of the skin.
  • This surface film is an emulsion, which can be a water-in-oil or an oil-in-water emulsion. It has the function of keeping the skin surface supple and regulating the water content of the underlying skin layers. If the sebum is well hydrated, the water content is at least 10 to 20% by weight and the sebum is hydrophilic. If the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of the surface film is no longer given and the water content drops, the sebum changes and becomes hydrophobic. The sebum flow from the sebum and follicles is impeded. There is a build-up of skin sebum in the follicular mouth, which can then lead to comedones and inflammation of the follicles.
  • comedone formation can have various causes.
  • external influences such as incorrect cleaning habits and incorrect care, comedogenic substances in cosmetics, weather influences, alkaline soaps, harsh detergents.
  • Increased sebum secretion and the formation of comedones can also develop due to genetic factors and hormonal influences.
  • comedones, inflammation, pre-acne and acne with their after-effects can be the result.
  • soaps have the disadvantage that the water-insoluble calcium and magnesium salts of the higher fatty acids which form when the soaps are used in hard water form slimy deposits on the skin. If it is difficult to rinse off, these precipitates remain on the skin longer, clog the follicular orifices and can lead to the formation of comedones. For this reason, syndets (ie, non-soap surfactants) in the form of washing creams or washing lotions are mainly used for skin cleaning. Although these syndets do not form lime soaps, treatment with highly surface-active agents has a more degreasing and drying effect on the skin than soap.
  • the excessive secretion of the sebum glands can be triggered by, among other things, androgenetic disorders and has an aesthetic disadvantage on the overall appearance of the hair. This disorder can also be the cause of hair loss.
  • the precursor is the seborrhoeic condition of the scalp. Vegetative disorders as well as improper care can worsen the complexion and hair condition. Even with seborrhea, the hair itself can be dry due to defects in the build-up of keratin. Dry, damaged hair is often caused by external stress such as B. sun or chemical treatments. Too hot blow drying or improper care of damaged hair can lead to damage.
  • the causes of oily hair are in the human body and are hormonal. Each hair has its own sebum gland that produces fat (sebum, sebum). Sebum production is hormonally controlled, and depending on the hormone sensitivity of the sebaceous gland, over or under production can occur.
  • the sebum itself has the function of keeping the scalp supple. It reaches the scalp from the sebum and only later the hairline. There it is normally taken up by the hair shaft and remains invisible. In the event of sebum overproduction, the hair shaft is no longer able to absorb it. It is visible as a greasy film on the hair. The result is streaky, greasy, shiny hair.
  • Oily hair and dandruff are among the most common hair problems. These abnormalities are due to a disruption of sebum activity. When the sebaceous glands are overactive, we speak of seborrhea. There are two types: the oily form (seborrhea oleosa) and the dry form (seborrhea sicca).
  • the treatment of seborrhea includes regular and thorough head washing with special shampoos, which can be carried out as often as necessary appears.
  • the wash should be combined with a massage in the connective tissue, because this empties the sebum more, which delays the re-greasing.
  • the present invention has for its object to provide a preparation which does not have the disadvantages of the known and previously used agents, which specifically dissolves sebum and skin fat and thus prevents the formation of comedones and the development of acne, at the same time existing comedones removes and improves existing acne and additionally reduces the production of sebum and skin oil by the sebum glands.
  • This object is achieved by the simultaneous use of salts of hard trivalent or tetravalent metal ions and unbranched, branched, cyclic or crosslinked oligosaccharides or polysaccharides and their derivatives for the preparation of preparations for removing and reducing the production of sebum and fat on the skin.
  • the active substances used according to the invention simultaneously reduce the production of sebum and fat on the skin and prevent or possibly eliminate the formation of seborrheic phenomena, in particular oily hair, but also dandruff.
  • hard trivalent or tetravalent metal ions come e.g. B.
  • Aluminum chlorohydates in question. These are colorless, hygroscopic crystals that flow easily in the air and occur when aqueous aluminum chloride solutions are evaporated.
  • Aluminum chlorohydrate is used in the manufacture of antiperspirant and deodorant preparations and is likely to act through the partial occlusion of the sweat glands by protein and / or Polysaccharidtiglung.
  • aluminum hydroxylactates and acidic aluminum / zirconium salts can also be used.
  • Unbranched, branched, cyclic or crosslinked oligosaccharides or polysaccharides and their derivatives are, for example, distarch phosphate or cyclodextrins (cycloamyloses, cycloglucans). These are known per se in cosmetic and pharmaceutical preparations. These substances are often used for "molecular encapsulation", ie as a protective coating for sensitive molecules. Distarch phosphate is produced by crosslinking starch with sodium metaphosphate. Cyclodextrins, on the other hand, are made up of 6, 7, 8 or even more ⁇ -1,4-linked glucose units, where the cyclohexaamylose ( ⁇ -cyclodextrin) is characterized by the structure
  • Cycloheptaamylose (ß-cyclodextrin) is characterized by its structure out. Cyclooctaamylose ( ⁇ -cyclodextrin) is characterized by its structure
  • Cycloenneaamylose ( ⁇ -cyclodextrin) is characterized by its structure out.
  • polar and non-polar substituted cyclodextrins can be used within the scope of this patent. These preferably, but not exclusively, include methyl, ethyl and hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin.
  • a method for combating impure skin, acne or seborrheic phenomena, in particular greasy hair and / or dandruff is thus characterized in that the active ingredients used according to the invention are in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological vehicle, with the area affected by increased sebum production in Be brought in contact.
  • a further preferred embodiment of the present invention are therefore formulations to be used against dandruff, for example antidandruff shampoos.
  • the prior art did not provide the slightest indication of the use according to the invention of the active compounds according to the invention as an antiseborrheic or sebum regulating active principle. It is advantageous according to the invention if the cosmetic or dermatological preparations contain 0.1-10% by weight of unbranched, branched, cyclic or crosslinked oligosaccharides or their derivatives and the total amount of the hard salts of trivalent or tetravalent metals used according to the invention the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations are advantageously chosen from the range of 0.01-10% by weight, preferably 0.05-7% by weight, in particular 0.1-5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations ,
  • preparations containing the active compound combinations according to the invention, customary antioxidants can be added.
  • the antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-camosine, D-carnosine, L-camosine and their derivatives (e.g.
  • carotenoids carotenoids
  • carotenes eg ⁇ -carotene, ⁇ -carotene, lycopene
  • ubiquinones and their derivatives aurothioglucose
  • propylthiouracil and other thiols eg thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl -, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, ⁇ -linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters
  • dilurylthiodipropionate distearylthiodipropionate
  • thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives Esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts
  • buthioninsulfoximines homocysteine sulfoximine, buthioninsulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathioninsulfoximine) in very low tolerable dosages (e.g. pmol to ⁇ mol / kg)
  • metal chelators for example ⁇ -hydroxyfe tts acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), ⁇ -hydroxy acids (e.g.
  • citric acid lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid bile acid
  • bile extracts bilirubin
  • biliverdin biliverdin
  • EDTA EGTA and their derivatives
  • unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives e.g.
  • the amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation .
  • the prophylaxis or the cosmetic or dermatological treatment with the active ingredient used according to the invention or with the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of active ingredient used according to the invention is carried out in the usual way, namely in such a way that the active ingredient used according to the invention or the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of active ingredient used according to the invention is applied to the affected skin areas.
  • the active ingredient used according to the invention can advantageously be incorporated into customary cosmetic and dermatological preparations, which can be in various forms. So you can e.g. a solution, an emulsion of the type water-in-oil (W / O) or of the type oil-in-water (O / W), or a multiple emulsions, for example of the type water-in-oil-in-water (W / O / W) or oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O), a hydrodispersion or lipodispersion, a gel, a solid stick or an aerosol.
  • Emulsions according to the invention in the sense of the present invention are advantageous and contain e.g. Fats, oils, waxes and / or other fat bodies, as well as water and one or more emulsifiers, as are usually used for such a type of formulation.
  • the cosmetic preparations according to the invention can therefore contain cosmetic auxiliaries of the type normally used in such preparations, for example preservatives, bactericides, deodorising substances, antiperspirants, insect repellents, vitamins, agents for preventing foaming, coloring agents.
  • cosmetic auxiliaries of the type normally used in such preparations, for example preservatives, bactericides, deodorising substances, antiperspirants, insect repellents, vitamins, agents for preventing foaming, coloring agents.
  • Substances, pigments with a coloring effect, thickeners, softening substances, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common components of a cosmetic formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
  • Medical topical compositions in the sense of the present invention generally contain one or more medicaments in an effective concentration.
  • medicaments in an effective concentration.
  • Preparations according to the invention can also advantageously contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of filter substances e.g. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular 1.0 to 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, in order to prepare cosmetic preparations To provide that protect the hair or skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also serve as a sunscreen for the hair.
  • the total amount of filter substances e.g. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular 1.0 to 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, in order to prepare cosmetic preparations To provide that protect the hair or skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also serve as a sunscreen for the hair.
  • UVB filter substances if they contain UVB filter substances, they can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
  • Oil-soluble UVB filters which are advantageous according to the invention are, for example:
  • 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
  • Esters of cinnamic acid preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
  • esters of salicylic acid preferably salicylic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, salicylic acid (4-isopropylbenzyl) ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester,
  • Esters of benzalmalonic acid preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester,
  • Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt, and also the sulfonic acid itself;
  • Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and their salts;
  • Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene-methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene-methyl) sulfonic acid and their salts as well as 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo 3-bornylidene-methyl) -benzene and its salts (the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, e.g. the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), also as benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bomylidene-methyl- Designated 10-sulfonic acid
  • UVB filters which can be used in combination with the active compound combinations according to the invention, is of course not intended to be limiting.
  • UVA filters that are usually contained in cosmetic preparations.
  • These substances are preferably derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) pro- pan-1, 3-dione.
  • the quantities used for the UVB combination can be used.
  • Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention advantageously also contain inorganic pigments based on metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular the oxides of titanium (TiO 2 ), zinc (ZnO), iron (for example Fe 2 O 3), zirconium ( ZrO 2 ), silicon (SiO 2 ), manganese (for example MnO), aluminum (Al 2 O 3 ), cerium (for example Ce 2 ⁇ 3 ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides. Pigments based on TiO 2 are particularly preferred.
  • the inorganic pigments are in hydrophobic form, i.e. that they have been treated to be water-repellent on the surface.
  • This surface treatment can consist in that the pigments are provided with a thin hydrophobic layer by methods known per se.
  • One such method consists, for example, in that the hydrophobic surface layer after a rectification
  • n and m are stoichiometric parameters to be used at will, R and R 'are the desired organic radicals.
  • hydrophobized pigments shown in analogy to DE-OS 33 14 742 are advantageous.
  • Advantageous Ti0 2 pigments are available, for example, under the trade names MT 100 T from TAYCA, M 160 from Kemira and T 805 from Degussa.
  • Preparations according to the invention especially when crystalline or microcrystalline solids, for example inorganic micropigments, can be incorporated into the preparations according to the invention.
  • Preparations to be incorporated also contain anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric surfactants.
  • Surfactants are amphiphilic substances that can dissolve organic, non-polar substances in water.
  • hydrophilic parts of a surfactant molecule are mostly polar functional groups, for example -COO " , -OSO 3 2" , -SO 3 " , while the hydrophobic parts generally represent non-polar hydrocarbon residues.
  • Surfactants are generally of type and charge of the hydrophilic part of the molecule. There are four groups:
  • Anionic surfactants generally have carboxylate, sulfate or sulfonate groups as functional groups. In an aqueous solution they form negatively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Cationic surfactants are characterized almost exclusively by the presence of a quaternary ammonium group. In aqueous solution they form positively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Amphoteric surfactants contain both anionic and cationic groups and accordingly behave like anionic or cationic surfactants in aqueous solution depending on the pH. They have a positive charge in a strongly acidic environment and a negative charge in an alkaline environment. In the neutral pH range, however, they are zwitterionic, as the following example should illustrate:
  • B + any cation, eg Na +
  • Polyether chains are typical of non-ionic surfactants.
  • Non-ionic surfactants do not form ions in an aqueous medium.
  • acylglutamates for example sodium acylglutamate, di-TEA-palmitoylaspartate and sodium caprylic / capric glutamate,
  • acyl peptides for example palmitoyl-hydrolyzed milk protein, sodium cocoyl-hydrolyzed.es soy protein and sodium / potassium cocoyl-hydrolyzed collagen,
  • sarcosinates for example myristoyl sarcosin, TEA-lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate,
  • taurates for example sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate
  • carboxylic acids for example lauric acid, aluminum stearate, magnesium alkanoate and zinc undecylenate,
  • ester carboxylic acids for example calcium stearoyl lactylate, laureth-6 citrate and sodium PEG-4 lauramide carboxylate,
  • ether carboxylic acids for example sodium laureth-13 carboxylate and sodium PEG-6 cocamide carboxylate,
  • Phosphoric acid esters and salts such as DEA-oleth-10-phosphate and dilureth-4-phosphate
  • acyl isethionates e.g. Sodium / ammonium cocoyi isethionate
  • alkyl sulfonates for example sodium coconut monoglyceride sulfate, sodium C.2-14 olefin sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate
  • Sulfosuccinates for example dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and disodium undecylenamido MEA sulfosuccinate
  • sulfuric acid esters such as
  • alkyl ether sulfate for example sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, TIPA laureth sulfate, sodium myreth sulfate and sodium C12-13 pareth sulfate,
  • Alkyl sulfates for example sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate.
  • Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N atom that is covalently linked to 4 alkyl or aryl groups. Regardless of the pH value, this leads to a positive charge.
  • Alkyl betaine, alkyl amidopropyl betaine and alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysulfain are advantageous.
  • the cationic surfactants used according to the invention can furthermore preferably be selected from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds, in particular benzyltrialkylammonium chlorides or bromides, such as, for example, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, furthermore alkyltrialkylammonium salts, for example, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, alkyl or dimethylammonium bromide, xy or dimethylammonium bromide, xdimethylammonium bromide, xy or dimethylammonium bromide, xy or dimethylammonium bromide, x or methyldimethyl bromide bromide, or xdimethyl bromide bromide , Alkylamidethyltrimethylammonium ether sulfates, alkylpyridinium salts, for example lauryl or cetylpyrimidinium chloride, imidazoline derivatives
  • acyl- / dialkylethylenediamine for example sodium acylamphoacetate, disodium acylamphodipropionate, disodium alkylamphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxy-propylsulfonate, disodium acylamphodiacetate and sodium acylamphopropionate,
  • N-alkylamino acids for example aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate.
  • alkanolamides such as Cocamide MEA / DEA / MIPA
  • amine oxides such as cocoamidopropylamine oxide
  • esters which are formed by esterification of carboxylic acids with ethylene oxide, glycerol, sorbitan or other alcohols,
  • ethers for example ethoxylated / propoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated / propoxylated esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated glycerol esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated cholesterols, ethoxylated / propoxylated triglyceride esters, ethoxylated propoxylated lanolin, ethoxylated / propoxylated polysiloxanes, such as propoxylated POE-glycosides and propoxylated POE glycosides and propoxylated POE-glycosides and propoxylated POE-glycosides and propoxylated POE-glycosides and propoxylated POE-glycosides and propoxylated POE-glycosides and propoxylated POE-glycosides and propoxylated POE-glycosides and propoxylated POE-glycosides and prop
  • the surface-active substance can be present in the preparations according to the invention in a concentration between 1 and 95% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • the lipid phase of the cosmetic or dermatological emulsions according to the invention can advantageously be selected from the following group of substances:
  • Oils such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid as well as natural oils such as e.g. Castor oil;
  • Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat bodies preferably
  • Esters of fatty acids with low C alcohols e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerin, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids lower
  • Silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes and mixed forms thereof.
  • the oil phase of the emulsions of the present invention is advantageously selected from the group of the esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononylisononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl, ethyl-2-ethylhexyl - Decyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate as well as synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, for example Jojoba oil.
  • the oil phase can advantageously be chosen from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and also the fatty acid triglycerides, especially the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids Chain length from 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils, for example olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.
  • any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.
  • the oil phase is selected from the group 2-ethylhexyl advantageous, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C 2 - .5 alkyl benzoate, caprylic-capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.
  • C ⁇ - are particularly advantageous .
  • s-alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostate mixtures of C. 2 -i5-alkyl benzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of Ci 2 -i5 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethyl hexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate.
  • hydrocarbons paraffin oil, squalane and squalene can be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.
  • the oil phase can advantageously also have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils.
  • Such silicones or silicone oils can be present as monomers, which are generally characterized by structural elements, as follows:
  • Linear silicones with a plurality of siloxyl units which can advantageously be used according to the invention are generally characterized by structural elements as follows: wherein the silicon atoms can be substituted with the same or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are generally represented here by the radicals R 1 - R (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to up to 4), m can assume values from 2 - 200,000.
  • n can assume values from 3/2 to 20. Broken values for n take into account that there may be odd numbers of siloxyl groups in the cycle.
  • Cyclomethicone for example decamethylcyclopentasiloxane
  • silicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example undecamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane), cetyldimethicone, behenoxydimethicone.
  • Mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate and those of cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate are also advantageous.
  • silicone oils of a similar constitution to the compounds described above, the organic side chains of which are derivatized, for example polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated.
  • these include, for example, polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers such as the cetyl-dimethicone copolyol, the (cetyl-dimethicone copolyol (and) polyglyceryl-4-isostearate (and) hexyl laurate)
  • the aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention advantageously advantageously contains alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and also their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl - or monoethyl ether and analog products, furthermore alcohols with a low C number, for example Ethanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propanediol, glycerol and in particular one or more thickeners, which one or more can advantageously be selected from the group consisting of silicon dioxide and aluminum silicates.
  • alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number and also their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene
  • Preparations according to the invention in the form of emulsions or hydrogels particularly advantageously contain one or more hydrocolloids.
  • These hydrocolloids can advantageously be selected from the group of the gums, polysaccharides, cellulose derivatives, phyllosilicates, polyacrylates and / or other polymers.
  • Gums include plant or tree sap that harden in the air and form resins or extracts from aquatic plants. Gum arabic, locust bean gum, tragacanth, karaya, guar gum, pectin, gellan gum, carrageenan, agar, algine, chondrus, xanthan gum can advantageously be selected from this group for the purposes of the present invention.
  • derivatized gums such as hydroxypropyl guar (Jaguar® HP 8) is also advantageous.
  • polysaccharides and derivatives are e.g. Hyaluronic acid, chitin and chitosan, chondroitin sulfates, starch and starch derivatives.
  • cellulose derivatives are e.g. Methyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose.
  • Layered silicates contain naturally occurring and synthetic clays such as Montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, laponite, magnesium aluminum silicates such as Veegum®. These can be used as such or in a modified form such as e.g. Stearylalkonium hektorite.
  • silica gels can also advantageously be used.
  • the polyacrylates include e.g. Carbopol types from Goodrich (Carbopol 980, 981, 1382, 5984, 2984, EDT 2001 or Pemulen TR2).
  • polymers e.g. Polyacrylamides (Seppigel 305), polyvinyl alcohols, PVP, PVP / VA copolymers, polyglycols.
  • Preparations according to the invention in the form of emulsions contain one or more emulsifiers.
  • emulsifiers can advantageously be selected from the group of nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric emulsifiers.
  • the nonionic emulsifiers include a) partial fatty acid esters and fatty acid esters of polyhydric alcohols and their ethoxylated derivatives (e.g. glyceryl monostearates, sorbitan stearates, glyceryl stearyl citrates, sucrose stearates) b) ethoxylated fatty alcohols and fatty acids c) ethoxylated fatty amides, fatty acid amides, fatty acid amides d) alkylphenol polyglycol ether (e.g. Triton X)
  • polyhydric alcohols and their ethoxylated derivatives e.g. glyceryl monostearates, sorbitan stearates, glyceryl stearyl citrates, sucrose stearates
  • ethoxylated fatty alcohols and fatty acids e.g. Triton X
  • the anionic emulsifiers include a) soaps (e.g. sodium stearate) b) fatty alcohol sulfates c) mono-, di- and trialkylphosphonic acid esters and their ethoxylates
  • the cationic emulsifiers include a) quaternary ammonium compounds with a long-chain aliphatic radical, e.g. Distearyldimonium Chloride
  • amphoteric emulsifiers include a) alkylamininoalkane carboxylic acids b) betaines, sulfobetaines c) imidazoline derivatives
  • emulsifiers which include beeswax, wool wax, lecithin and sterols.
  • O / W emulsifiers can, for example, advantageously be chosen from the group of polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated products, for example: the fatty alcohol ethoxylates of the ethoxylated wool wax alcohols, the polyethylene glycol ethers of the general formula RO - (- CH 2 -CH 2 -O- ) n -R ', the fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula
  • the polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated O / W emulsifiers chosen are particularly advantageously selected from the group of substances with HLB values of 11-18, very particularly advantageously with HLB values of 14.5-15. 5, provided the O / W emulsifiers have saturated radicals R and R '. If the O / W emulsifiers have unsaturated radicals R and / or R ', or if isoalkyl derivatives are present, the preferred HLB value of such emulsifiers can also be lower or higher.
  • fatty alcohol ethoxylates from the group of the ethoxylated stearyl alcohols, cetyl alcohols, cetylstearyl alcohols (cetearyl alcohols).
  • cetyl alcohols cetylstearyl alcohols
  • cetearyl alcohols cetearyl alcohols
  • Polyethylene glycol (12) lauryl ether (Laureth-12), polyethylene glycol (12) isolauryl ether (Iso-laureth-12).
  • Sodium laureth-11 carboxylate can advantageously be used as the ethoxylated alkyl ether carboxylic acid or its salt.
  • Sodium laureth 1-4 sulfate can advantageously be used as alkyl ether sulfate.
  • Polyethylene glycol (30) cholesteryl ether can advantageously be used as the ethoxylated cholesterol derivative.
  • Polyethylene glycol (25) soyasterol has also proven itself.
  • polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid esters from the group polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (21) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (22) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (23) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (6) glyceryl caprate / caprinate 20, polyethylene glycol glyceryl oleate, polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl iso stearate, polyethylene glycol (18) glyceryl oleate / cocoat to choose.
  • sorbitan esters from the group consisting of polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monolaurate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monoisostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monopalmitate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monooleate.
  • W / O emulsifiers fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, monoglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular their 12-18 C atoms, diglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, monoglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols Chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 C-atoms, diglycerol ether of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 C-atom, propylene glycol ester of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched
  • W / O emulsifiers are glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl, diglyceryl monostearate, diglycerol rylmonoisostearat, lenglycolmonocaprylat propylene glycol, propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene, propylene glycol, sorbitan, sorbitan monolaurate, sorbitan, Sorbitanmonoisooleat, sucrose, cetyl alcohol, Stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, isobehenyl alcohol, selachyl alcohol, chimyl alcohol, polyethylene glycol (2) stearyl ether (Steareth-2), glyceryl mono laurate, glyceryl monocaprinate, glyceryl monocaprylate.
  • Example 12 Hydrodispersion / Gel Cream

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Abstract

L'invention concerne l'utilisation de sels d'ions métalliques durs trivalents ou quadrivalents en combinaison avec des oligosaccharides ou des polysaccharides pour réaliser des préparations destinées à diminuer la production de sébum.
EP02727600A 2001-05-17 2002-05-16 Preparation cosmetique et dermatologique destinee a la regulation et a l'elimination de sebum Withdrawn EP1392398A2 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE10123989A DE10123989A1 (de) 2001-05-17 2001-05-17 Kosmetische und dermatologische Zubereitung zur Beseitigung und Regulation von Sebum
DE10123989 2001-05-17
PCT/EP2002/005375 WO2002092029A2 (fr) 2001-05-17 2002-05-16 Preparation cosmetique et dermatologique destinee a la regulation et a l'elimination de sebum

Publications (1)

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EP1392398A2 true EP1392398A2 (fr) 2004-03-03

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EP (1) EP1392398A2 (fr)
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GB0219089D0 (en) * 2002-08-16 2002-09-25 Dow Corning Silicone foam control compositions
DE102006032015A1 (de) * 2006-05-22 2008-01-17 Beiersdorf Ag Zubereitungen zur Sebumreduktion mit einem Gehalt an Hydroxycitrat als wirksames Prinzip
JP5819643B2 (ja) * 2010-06-04 2015-11-24 ロート製薬株式会社 外用組成物
WO2013093332A2 (fr) 2011-12-20 2013-06-27 L'oreal Composition cosmétique comprenant un tensioactif anionique, un alcool gras solide et un ester gras solide, et procédé de traitement cosmétique
JP5796728B1 (ja) 2014-11-17 2015-10-21 株式会社ライラック研究所 創傷治癒を促進し生体諸臓器の被覆（コーチング）及び庇護を目的とした生体皮膜剤。
US20170035802A1 (en) * 2015-08-03 2017-02-09 Lilac Laboratory Co., Ltd. Method for treating itching
DE102018215005A1 (de) * 2018-09-04 2020-03-05 Beiersdorf Ag Mattierende Hydrodispersion

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WO2002092029A2 (fr) 2002-11-21
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US20040136941A1 (en) 2004-07-15

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