EP1397107A2 - Preparations cosmetiques et dermatologiques se presentant sous forme d'emulsions eau-huile ayant une certaine teneur en huiles de silicones et en poudre de talc - Google Patents

Preparations cosmetiques et dermatologiques se presentant sous forme d'emulsions eau-huile ayant une certaine teneur en huiles de silicones et en poudre de talc

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Publication number
EP1397107A2
EP1397107A2 EP02700228A EP02700228A EP1397107A2 EP 1397107 A2 EP1397107 A2 EP 1397107A2 EP 02700228 A EP02700228 A EP 02700228A EP 02700228 A EP02700228 A EP 02700228A EP 1397107 A2 EP1397107 A2 EP 1397107A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
acid
oil
preparations
cosmetic
weight
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
EP02700228A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Rainer Kröpke
Stephanie Von Der Fecht
Astrid Heptner
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Beiersdorf AG
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf AG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Beiersdorf AG filed Critical Beiersdorf AG
Publication of EP1397107A2 publication Critical patent/EP1397107A2/fr
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/064—Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological preparations in the form of W / O emulsions containing low molecular weight silicones.
  • the skin is the largest human organ. Among its many functions (for example for heat regulation and as a sensory organ), the barrier function that prevents the skin (and ultimately the entire organism) from drying out is probably the most important. At the same time, the skin acts as a protective device against the penetration and absorption of substances coming from outside. This barrier function is brought about by the epidermis, which as the outermost layer forms the actual protective cover against the environment. At around a tenth of the total thickness, it is also the thinnest layer of the skin.
  • the epidermis is a stratified tissue in which the outer layer, the stratum corneum, is the important part for the barrier function.
  • the skin model of Elias (PM Elias, Structure and Function of the Stratum Corneum Permeability Bar er, Drug Dev. Res. 13, 1988, 97-105), which is recognized by experts today, describes the hom layer as a two-component system, similar to a brick wall (bricks and mortar model).
  • the homocytes komeocytes
  • the complex lipid membrane in the intercellular spaces corresponds to the mortar.
  • This system essentially represents a physical barrier against hydrophilic substances, but due to its narrow and multilayer structure it is equally difficult for lipophilic substances to pass through.
  • the present invention relates to cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations with a reduced feeling of stickiness, to processes for their preparation and to the use of active ingredients for reducing the feeling of stickiness of cosmetic preparations.
  • Cosmetic skin care is primarily understood to mean that the natural function of the skin as a barrier against environmental influences (e.g. dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against the loss of the body's own substances (e.g. water, natural fats, electrolytes) is strengthened or restored.
  • environmental influences e.g. dirt, chemicals, microorganisms
  • loss of the body's own substances e.g. water, natural fats, electrolytes
  • the aim of skin care is also to compensate for the loss of fat and water in the skin caused by daily washing. This is especially important when the natural regeneration ability is insufficient.
  • skin care products are intended to protect against environmental influences, especially sun and wind, and to delay skin aging.
  • Medical compositions usually contain one or more drugs in effective concentration.
  • drugs for the sake of simplicity, reference is made to the legal provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (e.g. cosmetics regulation, food and drug law) for a clear distinction between cosmetic and medical use and corresponding products.
  • Emulsions are generally understood to mean heterogeneous systems which consist of two liquids which are immiscible or only miscible with one another to a limited extent and are usually referred to as phases.
  • one of the two liquids is dispersed in the other liquid in the form of very fine droplets.
  • the two liquids are water and oil and oil droplets are finely distributed in water, then it is an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion, e.g. milk).
  • O / W emulsion oil-in-water emulsion
  • the basic character of an O / W emulsion is characterized by the water.
  • a water-in-oil emulsion (W / O emulsion, eg butter) is the opposite principle, the basic character being determined here by the oil.
  • silicone oils have some disadvantages, mainly in terms of formulation
  • silicone oils have some disadvantages, mainly in terms of formulation
  • a multitude of possibilities is known to the person skilled in the art for formulating stable W / O preparations for cosmetic or dermatological use, for example in the form of creams and ointments which are spreadable in the range from room temperature to skin temperature, or as lotions and milks which tend to flow in this temperature range.
  • the prior art knows only a few formulations which are so thin that they would be sprayable, for example.
  • Preparations for cosmetic or therapeutic skin care in particular contain mixtures of oils or oil-soluble substances and water or water-soluble substances as essential components.
  • Polyols (glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, sorbitol etc.) are used to increase the skin-moisturizing effect of water-in-oil emulsions. These preparations are particularly sticky with a polyol content of more than 5% and are not acceptable for sensory reasons. After applying the product, there should be little or no residue on the skin.
  • viscosity means the property of a liquid to oppose the mutual laminar displacement of two adjacent layers with resistance (toughness, internal friction).
  • the quotient v ⁇ / p from the dynamic viscosity ⁇ and the density p of the liquid is referred to as the kinematic viscosity v and is given in the SI unit m 2 / s.
  • speed the speed of an ointment or ointment base or the like means its property of pulling threads of different lengths when tapping; accordingly, a distinction is made between short and long-lasting fabrics.
  • the falling body viscosity is only suitable for the investigation of Newtonian liquids and gases. It is based on the Stokes law, according to which the dynamic viscosity ⁇ for a ball falling through a liquid flowing around it
  • W / O emulsions with a low viscosity which have a storage stability, as is required for marketable products, can only be formulated with great effort according to the prior art. Accordingly, the range of such mulations extremely low. Nevertheless, such formulations could offer the consumer previously unknown cosmetic services.
  • W / O emulsions with a higher viscosity are quite common preparations. Without using cyclic silicone oils, however, such preparations tend to have a cosmetically undemanding effect and are not particularly appealing to the skin.
  • the object of the present invention was therefore to eliminate the above-described disadvantages of the preparations of the prior art.
  • oil phase contains from 0.5 to 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation, of one or more silicone oils.
  • the preparations according to the invention act better than moisturizing preparations, are easier to formulate, better promote smoothing of the skin, are better cared for, serve better as a vehicle for cosmetic and medical-dermatological active ingredients better sensory properties, such as the spreadability on the skin or the ability to be absorbed into the skin, would have greater stability against decay in oil and water phases and would be better biocompatible than that Preparations of the state of the art.
  • the preparations according to the invention are both sprayable to flowable and can be formulated in a cream-like manner, have very good cosmetic properties, in particular with regard to stickiness, and have very good skin compatibility and skin care performance.
  • the proportion of the oil phase of the preparations according to the invention in the range from, for example, 20 to 35% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • Talc is a hydrated magnesium silicate with the composition 3MgO • 4SiO 2 • H 2 O or Mg 3 (Si 4 O ⁇ o) • (OH) 2 or Mg 6 (OH) 4 [Si 8 O 20 ] or Mg 12 [Si 16 O 0 ], which, however, can contain proportions of hydrated magnesium aluminum silicate of up to 12% by weight Al 2 O 3 , based on the entire product.
  • Talc is a white, mostly very fine, practically odorless to earthy-smelling powder that feels greasy when rubbed without being fat. It is insoluble in water, cold acids or alkalis. Depending on the country of origin, the chemical purity of the talc (based on the content of anhydrous magnesium silicate) should be 93-98%.
  • Talc is used for the manufacture of pharmaceutical powders, but above all for the manufacture of cosmetic powders that are used for personal hygiene, but is also suitable for the manufacture of tablets as a lubricant or flow agent.
  • the particle diameter (equivalent spherical diameter) of the talc should be in the range of 0.5-50 ⁇ m. In general, both talc have proven that not more than 5 microns wt .-% of particles less than 1 and not more than 5 wt .-% of part ⁇ chen contain over 50 microns in size. Preferably the proportion of particles is larger than 40 ⁇ m in diameter (sieve residue), at most 2% by weight.
  • the average particle diameter (D 50) is preferably 5-15 ⁇ m.
  • the content of accompanying substances should not be more than 1.6% by weight of Fe 2 O 3 , 1% by weight of CaO and 1% by weight of unbound water (loss on drying at 1050 ° C.).
  • the content of hydrated magnesium aluminum silicate can be up to 60% by weight, calculated as Al 2 O 3 , up to 12% by weight.
  • the shaped WO emulsions contain 0.1-20% by weight of talc, preferably 0.5-5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat bodies preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low C number, e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerin, or esters of fatty alcohols with low C number alkanoic acids or with fatty acids;
  • ethers preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerin, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and similar Products.
  • silicone oils are also referred to as “silicone oils” in the context of the present disclosure.
  • silicones or silicone oils can be present as monomers, which are generally obtained by Structural elements are characterized as follows:
  • silicon atoms can be substituted with the same or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are generally represented here by the radicals R 1 - R (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to up to 4), m can assume values from 2 - 200,000.
  • n can assume values from 3/2 to 20. Broken values for n take into account that there may be odd numbers of siloxyl groups in the cycle.
  • Phenyltrimethicone is advantageously chosen as the silicone oil.
  • Other silicone oils for example dimethicone, phenyldimethicone, cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasilo- xan) for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane), cetyldimethicone, behenoxydi harmonyone can be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.
  • silicone oils of a similar constitution to the compounds described above, the organic side chains of which are derivatized, for example polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated.
  • these include, for example, polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers such as the cetyl-dimethicone copolyol, the (cetyl-dimethicone copolyol (and) polyglyceryl-4-isostearate (and) hexyl laurate)
  • the oil phase of the emulsions preferably consists of 0.5 to 12% by weight of silicones of the type listed under point (b), although it is possible to accept up to half without major disadvantages to choose the total weight of the oil components from the group of other oil components.
  • esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethyllauryl, 2-ethylhexyl Hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate as well as synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, for example Jojoba oil.
  • the oil components of the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the dialkyl ethers and / or dialkyl carbonates, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and also the fatty acid triglycerides, especially that Triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18, carbon atoms.
  • the fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils, for example olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.
  • Fat and / or wax components to be used advantageously according to the invention can be selected from the group of vegetable waxes, animal waxes, mineral waxes and petrochemical waxes.
  • Favorable according to the invention are, for example, candelilla wax, camauba wax, japan wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, berry wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, jojoba wax, shea butter, beeswax, shellac wax, walnut wax, lanolin (wool wax), Bürzelfettite, cerium wax fat, cereal wax, cereal wax fat , Paraffin waxes and micro waxes.
  • fat and / or wax components are chemically modified waxes and synthetic waxes such as those sold under the tradenames Syncrowax HRC (glyceryl tribehenate), Syncrowax HGLC (C 16 3S -Fettklaretrigly- cerid.) And Syncrowax AW 1C (C 18 36. - Fatty acid) available from CRODA GmbH as well as montan ester waxes, Sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes, synthetic or modified beeswaxes (e.g.
  • the fat and / or wax components can be present both individually and in a mixture. Any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.
  • the oil phase is advantageously selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C 2 -C 5 -alkyl benzoate, caprylic capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.
  • Particularly advantageous are mixtures of C 12 . ⁇ s benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C ⁇ 2 _ ⁇ 5 -alkyl benzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of Ci ⁇ -is-alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate.
  • hydrocarbons paraffin oil, cycloparaffin, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene or polydecene can be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.
  • W / O emulsions according to the invention can advantageously be prepared with the aid of the usual W / O emulsifiers, if desired with the aid of O / W emulsifiers or other co-emulsifiers.
  • W / O emulsions according to the present invention contain one or more emulsifiers, particularly advantageously selected from the group of the following substances, which generally act as W / O emulsifiers:
  • W / O emulsions according to the present invention optionally contain one or more emulsifiers, particularly advantageously selected from the group of the following substances, which generally act as O / W emulsifiers:
  • W / O emulsions according to the invention which are distinguished by a content of silicone emulsifiers, have very particularly advantageous properties.
  • Such W / O emulsions are therefore particularly preferred embodiments of the present invention.
  • the silicone emulsifiers can advantageously be selected from the group of surface-active substances from the group of alkyl methicon copolyols and / or alkyl dimethicone copolyols, in particular from the group of compounds which are characterized by the following chemical structure:
  • X and Y are selected independently of one another from the group H and the branched and unbranched alkyl groups, acyl groups and alkoxy groups having 1 to 24 carbon atoms
  • p represents a number from 0 to 200
  • q represents a number from 1 to 40
  • r represents a number Represents number from 1 - 100.
  • surface-active substances to be used particularly advantageously for the purposes of the present invention is the cetyl dimethicone copolyol, which is sold by the company Th. Goldschmidt AG under the trade name ABIL® EM 90.
  • Another example of surface-active substances to be used particularly advantageously for the purposes of the present invention is the cyclomethicone dimethicone copolyol, which is sold by the company Th. Goldschmidt AG under the trade name ABIL® EM 97.
  • the emulsifier lauryl methicone copolyol which is sold under the trademark Dow Corning® 5200 Formulation Aid by the company Dow Corning Ltd., has proven to be particularly advantageous. is available.
  • the total amount of silicone emulsifiers used according to the invention in the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention is advantageously chosen from the range from 0.1 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 5.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • Emulsions according to the invention in the sense of the present invention are advantageous and contain e.g. Fats, oils, waxes and / or other fat bodies, as well as water and one or more emulsifiers, as are usually used for such a type of formulation.
  • Medical topical compositions in the sense of the present invention generally contain one or more drugs in effective concentration.
  • drugs in effective concentration.
  • the clean distinction between cosmetic and medical application and corresponding products refer to the legal provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (e.g. cosmetics regulation, food and drug law).
  • cosmetic or topical dermatological compositions in the sense of the present invention, depending on their structure, can be used, for example, as skin protection cream, cleansing milk, sunscreen lotion, nutritional cream, day or night cream, etc. It may be possible and advantageous to use the compositions according to the invention as the basis for pharmaceuticals Use wording.
  • Cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the form of a sunscreen are also favorable.
  • these preferably additionally contain at least one UVA filter substance and / or at least one UVB filter substance and / or at least one inorganic pigment.
  • UV-A or UV-B filter substances are usually incorporated into day creams.
  • Preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of filter substances e.g. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular 1 to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • the UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
  • oil-soluble substances e.g. to call:
  • 3-benzylidene camphor and its derivatives for example 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
  • Esters of cinnamic acid preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethyl! Hexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
  • Esters of salicylic acid preferably salicylic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, salicylic acid
  • Esters of benzalmalonic acid preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester;
  • UVB filters which can be used according to the invention, is of course not intended to be limiting.
  • UVA filters in the preparations according to the invention, which are usually contained in cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations.
  • Such filter substances are preferably derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and 1-phenyl-3- ( 4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione.
  • Preparations containing these combinations are also the subject of the invention.
  • the same amounts of UVA filter substances that were mentioned for UVB filter substances can be used.
  • Cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations in the sense of the present invention can also contain inorganic pigments which are usually used in cosmetics to protect the skin from UV rays. These are oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum, cerium and mixtures thereof, as well as modifications in which the oxides are the active agents. It is particularly preferred to use pigments based on titanium dioxide. The amounts given for the above combinations can be used.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic active ingredients, auxiliaries and / or additives as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. Antioxidants, preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, anti-foaming substances, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
  • cosmetic active ingredients e.g. Antioxidants, preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, anti-foaming substances, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation
  • the W / O emulsions according to the invention are distinguished by a proportion of electrolytes.
  • the electrolyte or electrolytes are advantageously selected from the group
  • Electrolytes based on organic anions are also advantageous, e.g. Lactates, acetates, benzoates, propionates, tartrates, citrates, amino acids and their salts and others. Comparable effects can also be achieved with ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid and its salts.
  • Ammonium, alkylammonium, alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, magnesium, iron and zinc ions are preferably used as cations of the salts.
  • electrolytes there is no need to mention that only physiologically acceptable electrolytes should be used in cosmetics. Potassium chloride, sodium chloride, magnesium sulfate, zinc sulfate and mixtures thereof are particularly preferred.
  • the electrolyte or electrolytes are also advantageously selected from the
  • the 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its salts for example the sodium, potassium or its triethanolammonium salt
  • the electrolyte or electrolytes are furthermore advantageously selected from the
  • amino acids are part of the natural moisture factor (the so-called natural moisturizing factor).
  • the addition of amino acids, especially essential amino acids, is to be regarded as advantageous, since moisture can be bound in the skin through hydration processes.
  • Amino acids with a particularly advantageous cosmetic or dermatological effect are glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, proline, hydroxyproline, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, tryptophan, arginine.
  • the electrolyte or electrolytes are further advantageously selected from the group (4) the cosmetically and dermatologically relevant .alpha.-hydroxycarboxylic acids, .alpha.-ketocarboxylic acids and .beta.-hydroxycarboxylic acids and in particular their salts, the cations advantageously being able to be selected from the group consisting of ammonium, - alkylammonium, - alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, - magnesium - , Iron or zinc ions.
  • ß-Hydroxycarboxylic acids which are cosmetically or dermatologically relevant, follow the general formula
  • salicylic acid has an antibacterial and keratolytic effect and is a component of some cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations.
  • ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids used according to the invention are advantageously chosen from the following classes of substances:
  • ⁇ -hydroxy fatty acids which in turn are selected particularly advantageously from the group of C ⁇ o- 1 8-alkyl carboxylic acids, (a3) ⁇ -hydroxy sugar acids, aliphatic ⁇ -hydroxy fruit acids, (a4) unsubstituted aromatic ⁇ -hydroxy carboxylic acids (e.g. mandelic acid) or (a5) Substituted aromatic ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids.
  • the ⁇ -hydroxy fatty acids falling under point (a2) are particularly advantageously selected from the group ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids, according to the formula
  • n represents a number from 7 to 31.
  • mixtures of such aliphatic ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids in particular in the form of wool wax acid mixtures, in which the content of ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids is 20-30% by weight, based on the total composition.
  • ⁇ -hydroxy sugar acids falling under point (a3) are particularly advantageously selected from the group of
  • Aldonic acids e.g. Gluconic acid, galactonic acid
  • Aldar acids for example glucaric acid, galactaric acid (but also the fruit acid tartaric acid, which also falls under the definition of aldar acid), uronic acids, for example glucuronic acid, galacturonic acid, glyceric acid
  • uronic acids for example glucuronic acid, galacturonic acid, glyceric acid
  • the aliphatic ⁇ -hydroxy fruit acids falling under point (a3) are particularly advantageously selected from the group of malic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid.
  • Lactic acid (2-hydroxypropanoic acid) is characterized by the following chemical structure:
  • Citric acid (2-hydroxy-1,2,3-propanetricarboxylic acid) is characterized by the following chemical structure:
  • citric acid is used for buffering cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations, but also as a synergist for antioxidants in skin and hair cosmetics.
  • Tartaric acid (dihydroxy succinic acid) is characterized by the following chemical structure:
  • the preferred ⁇ -ketocarboxylic acid is pyruvic acid ( ⁇ -oxopropanoic acid). It is characterized by the following structure:
  • the maximum amount of the electrolytes to be used ultimately depends on their solubility in the aqueous phase. Basically, the teaching of the invention but no maximum quantities as a barrier, since it may even be advantageous, for whatever reason, to incorporate an additional amount of this electrolyte beyond the solubility of an electrolyte, for example as an undissolved solid, into a cosmetic or dermatological preparation.
  • batyl alcohol ⁇ -octadecylglyceryl ether
  • selachyl alcohol ⁇ -9-octadecenylglyceryl ether
  • chimyl alcohol ⁇ -hexadecylglyceryl ether
  • bisabolol ⁇ -hexadecylglyceryl ether
  • antioxidants it is also advantageous to add customary antioxidants to the preparations for the purposes of the present invention. According to the invention, all the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as favorable antioxidants.
  • the antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-camosine, D-carnosine, L- Carnosine and its derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. ⁇ -carotene, ß-carotene, ⁇ -lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g.
  • amino acids eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan
  • imidazoles eg urocanic acid
  • peptides such as D, L-camosine, D-carnosine, L- Carnosine and its derivatives (e.g. anserine)
  • carotenoids e
  • thioredoxin glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, ⁇ -Linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters
  • salts dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thio dipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sutfoximine compounds (e.g.
  • citric acid Lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives
  • unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives e.g. ⁇ -linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid
  • folic acid and their derivatives furfurylidene sorbitol and its derivatives, Ubiquinone and Ubi- quinol and its derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g.
  • vitamin E acetate
  • vitamin A and derivatives vitamin A palmitate
  • coniferyl benzoate of the benzoin resin Rutinic acid and its derivatives, ⁇ -glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajakharzäure, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, eg zinc and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, mannose and ZnO2 and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, eg 4 ) Selenium and its derivatives (eg selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids
  • the amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation ,
  • vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s)
  • Preparations according to the present invention can also be used as a basis for cosmetic or dermatological deodorants or antiperspirants.
  • All active ingredients common to deodorants or antiperspirants can be used advantageously, for example odor maskers such as the common perfume components, odor absorbers, for example the layered silicates described in patent application DE-P 40 09 347, of which in particular montmorillonite, kaolinite, llite, beidellite, nontronite , Saponite, hectorite, bentonite, smectite, furthermore, for example, zinc salts of ricinoleic acid.
  • odor maskers such as the common perfume components
  • odor absorbers for example the layered silicates described in patent application DE-P 40 09 347, of which in particular montmorillonite, kaolinite, llite, beidellite, nontronite , Saponite, hectorite, bentonite, smectite, furthermore, for example
  • Germ-inhibiting agents are also suitable for being incorporated into the preparations according to the invention.
  • advantageous substances are 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (irgasane), 1,6-di (4-chlorophenylbiguanido) hexane (chlorhexidine), 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, quaternary ammonium compounds , Clove oil, mint oil, thyme oil, triethyl citrate, farnesol (3,7,11-trimethyl-2,6,10-dodecatrien-1-ol) and those in the Patent publications DE-37 40 186, DE-39 38 140, DE-42 04 321, DE-42 29 707, DE-43 09 372, DE-44 11 664, DE-195 41 967, DE-195 43 695, DE -195 43 696, DE-195 47 160, DE-196 02 108, DE-196 02 110, DE-196 02 111, DE-196 31
  • the amount of such active substances (one or more compounds) in the preparations according to the invention is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10% by weight, based on the Total weight of the preparation.
  • the water phase of the cosmetic preparations in the sense of the present invention can also have a gel character which, in addition to an effective content of the substances used according to the invention and solvents usually used for this purpose, preferably water, also further organic thickeners, e.g. Gum arabic, xanthan gum, sodium alginate, starch and starch derivatives (e.g. distarch phosphate), cellulose, cellulose derivatives, preferably methyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose or inorganic thickeners, e.g. B.
  • organic thickeners e.g. Gum arabic, xanthan gum, sodium alginate, starch and starch derivatives (e.g. distarch phosphate)
  • cellulose, cellulose derivatives preferably methyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose
  • the thickener is in the gel e.g. in an amount between 0.1 and 30% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 15% by weight.
  • the preparations according to the invention particularly advantageously contain glycerol.
  • the total amount of glycerol in the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention is advantageously in the range of 0.01-30.0% by weight, preferably 0.1-10.0% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5-5%. 0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N atom that is covalently linked to 4 alkyl or aryl groups. Regardless of the pH value, this leads to a positive charge.
  • Alkyl betaine, alkyl amidopropyl betaine and aikyl amidopropyl hydroxysulfain are advantageous.
  • the cationic surfactants used according to the invention can furthermore preferably be selected from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds, in particular benzyltrialkylammonium chlorides or bromides, such as, for example, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, furthermore alkyltrialkylammonium salts, for example, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, alkyl or dimethylammonium bromide, xy or dimethylammonium bromide, xdimethylammonium bromide, xy or dimethylammonium bromide, xy or dimethylammonium bromide, x or methyldimethyl bromide bromide, or xdimethyl bromide bromide , Alkylamidethyltrimethylammonium ether sulfates, alkylpyridinium salts, for example lauryl or cetylpyrimidinium chloride, imidazoline derivatives
  • cationic polymers for example Jaguar C 162 [hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride) or modified magnesium aluminum silicates (for example quatemium-18-hectorite, which is available, for example, under the trade name Bentone® 38 from Rheox, or Stearalkonium hectorite, which is available, for example, under the trade name Softisan® Gel from Hüls AG).
  • cationic polymers for example Jaguar C 162 [hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride)
  • modified magnesium aluminum silicates for example quatemium-18-hectorite, which is available, for example, under the trade name Bentone® 38 from Rheox, or Stearalkonium hectorite, which is available, for example, under the trade name Softisan® Gel from Hüls AG.
  • Preparations according to the invention can advantageously also contain oil thickeners in order to improve the tactile properties of the emulsion and the stick consistency.
  • Oil thickeners for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, other solids, such as, for. B. hydrophobic silicon oxides of the type Aerosil®, which are available from Degussa AG.
  • Aerosil® grades are Aerosil® OX50, Aerosil® 130, Aerosil® 150, Aerosil® 200, Aerosil® 300, Aerosil® 380, Aerosil® MOX 80, Aerosil® MOX 170, Aerosil® COK 84, Aerosil® R 202 , Aerosil® R 805, Aerosil® R 812, Aerosil® R 972, Aerosil® R 974 and / or Aerosil® R976.
  • metal soaps ie the salts of higher fatty acids with the exception of the alkali salts
  • oil thickeners for the purposes of the present invention, such as, for example, aluminum stearate, zinc stearate and / or magnesium stearate.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants e.g. cocoamidopropylbetaine
  • moisturizem e.g. betaine
  • Amphoteric surfactants to be used advantageously are, for example, acyl / dialkylethylenediamine, for example sodium acylamphoacetate, disodium acylamphodipropionate, disodium alkylamphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, disodium acyiamphodiacetate and sodium acylamphopropyl aminodimide, naphthamino aminopropyl amide, amine, for example sodium aminopropyl aminopropyl amide, naphtha aminopropyl aminophenyl amide,
  • the amount of surface-active or surface-active substances (one or more compounds) in the preparations according to the invention is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10% by weight. %, based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • Preparations according to the invention can also contain active substances (one or more compounds) which are selected from the group: acetylsalicylic acid, atropine, azulene, hydrocortisone and its derivatives, for example hydrocortisone 17-valerate, vitamins, for example ascorbic acid and its derivatives, vitamins of B- and D series, very cheap the vitamin Bi, the vitamin B 12, the vitamin Di, but also bisabolol, unsaturated fatty acids, namely the essential fatty acids (often also called vitamin F), especially ⁇ -linolenic acid, oleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid and their derivatives, chloramphenicol, caffeine, prostaglandins, thymol, camphor, extracts or other products of plant and animal origin, for example evening primrose oil, borage oil or currant seed oil, fish oils, cod liver oil but also ceramides and ceramide-like compounds and so on.
  • the active substances from the group of refatting substances, for example Purcellin oil, Eucerit® and Neocerit®.
  • the amount of such active substances (one or more compounds) in the preparations according to the invention is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10% by weight, based on the Total weight of the preparation.

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  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne des préparations cosmétiques ou dermatologiques qui se présentent sous la forme (a) d'émulsions eau-huile ayant (b) une certaine teneur en poudre de talc, (c) la phase huile représentant 20 à 55 % du poids total de la préparation et (d) la phase huile ayant une teneur de 0.5 à 12 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la préparation, d'au moins une huile de silicones.
EP02700228A 2001-02-15 2002-02-13 Preparations cosmetiques et dermatologiques se presentant sous forme d'emulsions eau-huile ayant une certaine teneur en huiles de silicones et en poudre de talc Ceased EP1397107A2 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE10107628 2001-02-15
DE2001107628 DE10107628A1 (de) 2001-02-15 2001-02-15 Kosmetische und dermatologische Zubereitungen in Form von W/O-Emulsionen mit einem Gehalt an Siliconölen und Talkum
PCT/EP2002/001490 WO2002064103A2 (fr) 2001-02-15 2002-02-13 Preparations cosmetiques et dermatologiques se presentant sous forme d'emulsions eau-huile ayant une certaine teneur en huiles de silicones et en poudre de talc

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EP1397107A2 true EP1397107A2 (fr) 2004-03-17

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US7223386B2 (en) 2002-03-11 2007-05-29 Dow Corning Corporation Preparations for topical skin use and treatment
DE502005007374D1 (de) 2004-04-27 2009-07-09 Beiersdorf Ag Transparente kosmetische oder dermatologische formulierung
DE102005017032B4 (de) 2004-04-27 2009-12-17 Beiersdorf Ag Kosmetische Formulierung enthaltend Mandelsäure
DE102012202337A1 (de) * 2012-02-16 2013-08-22 Beiersdorf Ag Stabile Wasser in Öl Emulsionen mit verbesserter Sensorik
DE102014206332A1 (de) * 2014-04-02 2015-10-08 Beiersdorf Ag Kosmetische wasser-in-öl-emulsion

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JP2657219B2 (ja) * 1988-04-12 1997-09-24 株式会社資生堂 水中油型乳化化粧料
JP2929024B2 (ja) * 1990-02-27 1999-08-03 花王株式会社 油中水型乳化化粧料
DE19627204A1 (de) * 1996-07-05 1998-01-08 Basf Ag Kosmetische oder pharmazeutische Mittel zur Anwendung auf der Haut
DE19826503A1 (de) * 1998-06-13 1999-12-16 Beiersdorf Ag Kosmetische und dermatologische Zubereitungen mit einem Gehalt an Chitosan und Phospholipiden
DE19842730A1 (de) * 1998-09-18 2000-03-23 Beiersdorf Ag Emulgatorfreie feindisperse Systeme vom Typ Öl-in-Wasser und Wasser-in-Öl
DE19852212A1 (de) * 1998-11-12 2000-05-18 Beiersdorf Ag Zubereitungen vom Emulsionstyp W/O mit erhöhtem Wassergehalt, enthaltend ferner ein oder mehrere Alkylmethiconcopolyole und/oder Alkyl-Dimethiconpolyole sowie kationische Polymere
EP1002569A3 (fr) * 1998-11-19 2000-09-06 Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Compositions du genre eau dans l'huile contenant des polymères cationiques
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FR2791559B1 (fr) * 1999-03-31 2003-03-07 Oreal Composition cosmetique comprenant au moins une phase pulverulente, un hydratant et un derive de galactomannane et utilisations
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DE19943436A1 (de) * 1999-09-08 2001-03-15 Beiersdorf Ag Kosmetische und dermatologische Zubereitungen mit einem Gehalt an fluormodifizierten sulfonierten Kammpolymeren
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WO2002064103A3 (fr) 2003-12-31
DE10107628A1 (de) 2002-08-22

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