Classifications

• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
  • D04B—KNITTING
  • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
  • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles

Definitions

• the present invention relates to a new type of Jacquard knitting produced on a single-stitch or double needle-stitch loom.
• Such knits are made by knitting a first thread at the first fall
• This technique makes it possible to obtain zones having solid color patterns, these zones being very clearly separated from one another.
• the new Jacquard knit according to the invention is produced on a multi-drop circular loom, on the basis of a weave making it possible to obtain Jacquard patterns in two colors, three colors or more, and it is characterized by what it includes localized patterns, separated from each other by a plain background, the knitting weave being such that at the border of the different areas of the design, it has a gradient giving a shaded appearance resulting in a relief effect in " optical illusion".
• FIG. 1 is a schematic view of a knitted fabric according to the invention comprising a "trompe l'oeil” design, produced using a two-color Jacquard base.
• FIG. 2 is a diagram illustrating in a conventional manner the knitting weave for obtaining such a knitting.
• FIG. 3 illustrates, for its part, a knitted fabric according to the invention also having a "trompe l'oeil” effect, but produced according to the three-color Jacquard technique.
• FIG. 4 is, in turn, the conventional diagram of the knitting weave for making such a knitting.
• FIG. 5 is, in turn, a reproduction of a Jacquard knit produced in accordance with the invention and having effects in the form of "circular dots" which appear in relief, while the surface of the textile is itself perfectly plane.
• FIG. 1 the drawing is shown diagrammatically by the knitting needles represented by the signs "X", "0" and "#".
• This knitting is carried out in a basic weave comprising eight rows of stitches, and is therefore obtained on 16 knitting scraps.
• the loom is a loom with 48 scraps.
• thread # 1 will be taken by the corresponding needles in the design marked by X + 0 and thread # 2 will be taken by the corresponding needles in the design marked by X + #.
• the procedure is as follows: ⁇ Knitting a yarn 1 of a first color on an odd drop every other needle; ⁇ Knit a second thread 1 at the next odd fall as a complement to the previous odd fall; ⁇ Then start again in falls 1, 5 and 9 ... which will therefore be the same as knitting as well as falls 3, 7, 11, etc., and this on the loom regardless of the drawing; ⁇ In the first pattern of the drawing, the odd falls have the same selection as the odd falls preceding them, and therefore work every other needle.
• Such a way of carrying out knitting involves, in the areas of separation of the patterns of the design of stitches of different sizes, some remaining hooked on a needle for several rows before the felling of this needle, and therefore elongate.
• This type of knitting can be done on a single needle loom (Jersey loom), as described above. It can also be used on a double needle technology. In such a case, the principle of making knitted fabric "trompe l'oeil" remains strictly identical to what has been described above, and is obtained by Jacquard knitting on Jersey base in general with a cylinder. The knitting of the reverse side of the knitting is carried out on the loom plate and is obtained in a conventional manner, the place and the reverse side being able to be linked by a tying thread giving the article a thickness.
• the double needle bed can also be produced according to a more conventional process with the same threads working on the cylinder and the plate according to a particular selection.
• Example of making a Jacquard knit three or more colors Such an embodiment is illustrated in FIGS. 3 and 4.
• thread 1 will be taken by the corresponding needles in the drawing marked by X + ⁇ ;
• thread 2 will be taken by the corresponding needles of the drawing marked by X;
• thread 3 will be taken by the corresponding needles in the drawing marked with ⁇ ;
• thread 1 will be taken by the corresponding needles of the drawing marked by X + 0 + ⁇ ;
• the knitting process is as follows: Knitting a yarn 1 on a scrap n, one needle in two. All falls from the profession numbered n, n + 6, etc. will have the same construction; Knit the same thread 1 on a fall n + 3 in addition to the fall n. All falls n + 3, n + 9, n + 15, etc. will have the same construction;
• a knitted fabric is obtained having the superposition of a design with colored surfaces given by the two-color Jacquard selection on a row and of a pattern which is obtained by the offsets of a needle as indicated above.
• the invention according to the invention can be extended to a knitting mode comprising a greater number of colors in the row and, as indicated above, if the possible data are made on a Jersey basis, it is possible to transpose this technique for making double needle knitwear.
• This knitting can be made from any type of yarn, in particular textured yarns by fixed false twist, which may for example have a count of 167 dtex.

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• Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
• Textile Engineering (AREA)
• Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
• Knitting Machines (AREA)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Publications (1)

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ID=8869306

Family Applications (1)

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Family Cites Families (3)

• 2001
  • 2001-11-12 FR FR0114612A patent/FR2832164B1/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
• 2002
  • 2002-09-10 WO PCT/FR2002/003070 patent/WO2003042442A1/fr not_active Ceased
  • 2002-09-10 EP EP02774920A patent/EP1444392A1/de not_active Withdrawn

Non-Patent Citations (2)

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