EP1458346A2 - Retinoid und malzextrakt enthaltende zusammensetzung - Google Patents

Retinoid und malzextrakt enthaltende zusammensetzung

Info

Publication number
EP1458346A2
EP1458346A2 EP02796759A EP02796759A EP1458346A2 EP 1458346 A2 EP1458346 A2 EP 1458346A2 EP 02796759 A EP02796759 A EP 02796759A EP 02796759 A EP02796759 A EP 02796759A EP 1458346 A2 EP1458346 A2 EP 1458346A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
skin
malt extract
retinoid
composition
compositions
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP02796759A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Thierry Oddos
Patricia Manissier
Magali Jousselin
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Johnson and Johnson Consumer Holdings France SAS
Original Assignee
Johnson and Johnson Consumer France SAS
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Johnson and Johnson Consumer France SAS filed Critical Johnson and Johnson Consumer France SAS
Priority to EP02796759A priority Critical patent/EP1458346A2/de
Publication of EP1458346A2 publication Critical patent/EP1458346A2/de
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67—Vitamins
    • A61K8/671—Vitamin A; Derivatives thereof, e.g. ester of vitamin A acid, ester of retinol, retinol, retinal
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9794—Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to compositions comprising a retinoid and malt extract for improving the appearance of the skin and to combat the effects of skin aging.
  • the skin is composed of three layers: the epidermis, including the outer layer and the stratum comeum, the dermis and, deeper down, the hypodermis. Exchanges exist between these different dermal and epidermal layers, which are intended to ensure cell renewal, cohesion and moisturization of the outer layers.
  • the dermis results from the biosynthetic activity of fibroblasts, which develop the constituents of the extracellular matrix.
  • the latter contains four families of structural molecules: collagens, elastin, structural glycoproteins and proteoglycans.
  • Collagen is the most important structural protein of the dermis since it represents 70 % of its dry weight.
  • type I collagen is present in connective tissues and represents all of the collagen in bone and dentine.
  • Type HI collagen is complexed with type I collagen in most connective tissues, but is not found in bone or tendons.
  • active agents have been proposed to prevent or delay the effects of skin aging. It has been shown that retinoids, and in particular retinol, have a favorable effect on the appearance of the skin and are useful in combating the effects of skin aging.
  • DEJ 'dermal epidermal junction'
  • laminins Several macromolecules compose the DEJ such as collagen IN and Nil, heparan sulfate and laminins. These molecules are synthesized in the two adjacent tissue layers.
  • the function of laminines was initially described to lie in the attachment of the keratinocytes from the epidermis basal layer to the DEJ. It further became clear that laminins play an important role in skin structuralization as genetic disorders related to laminins cause the skin to become fragile and induce the appearance of diseases like epidermis bullosa.
  • skin restructuralization the addition of laminins improves and accelerates the formation of the dermal epidermal junction.
  • compositions that have a favorable effect on the appearance of the skin and to provide compositions that act on the effects of skin aging.
  • This object is attained by the compositions of the present invention which in particular act on the production of laminins and therefore have a positive effect on the formation and the constitution of the DEJ.
  • the present invention is directed to a composition
  • a composition comprising at least one retinoid, or a topically acceptable salt thereof and at least one malt extract.
  • a preferred retinoid is retinol.
  • a preferred malt extract is aqueous.
  • a particularly preferred malt extract is the product named 'BasalineTM' , available from the company Coletica.
  • the invention further is concerned with a topical formulation comprising a composition as defined herein and further ingredients.
  • the topical formulation can be for dermatological use but in particular is for cosmetic use.
  • the invention provides the use of a composition as defined herein for manufacturing a topical or more specifically a cosmetic formulation.
  • the topical or cosmetic formulations in particular are useful for combating or treating the effects of skin aging.
  • the invention provides the use, and in particular the cosmetic use, of a composition as defined herein, or of a topical formulation as defined herein, for combating or treating the effects associated with the aging of skin.
  • the invention concerns a method, and in particular a cosmetic method, of combating or treating the effects of skin aging, which method or cosmetic method comprises applying to the affected skin area an amount of a composition or a topical formulation as defined herein, said amount being effective to treat said effects of skin aging.
  • Still another aspect of this invention comprises a cosmetic method for the improvement of the external appearance of an individual, said method comprising applying a composition or a topical composition as defined herein to affected skin areas.
  • the retinoid used in the compositions according to the invention is selected from retinoic acid or tretinoin, retinaldehydes, retinol, their salts, their esters and the stereoisomers thereof.
  • retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, and stereoisomers such as all transretinoic acid, 9-cis retinoic acid, and 13-cis-retinoic acid.
  • retinol and “retinoic acid” should be understood to also include the hydrogenated and non-hydrogenated isomers such as ⁇ -cis-retinol, didehydroretinol, ⁇ -cis-retinoic acid, ⁇ -trans-retinoic acid and didehydroretinoic acid.
  • Typical salts are alkali metal, ammonium and alkylammonium salts. Sodium, potassium, triethanolammonium and ammonium salts are particularly preferred.
  • alkylammonium refers to primary, secondary, tertiary and, which is preferred, quaternary alkylammonium, wherein alkyl: in particular is C ⁇ -C 0 alkyl.
  • C ⁇ - C 30 alkyl refers to hydrocarbon radicals having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms that are preferably saturated. Said C ⁇ -C 30 alkyl maybe optionally substituted, for example with hydroxy, except that when C ⁇ -C 30 alkyl is substituted it is other than Ci-alkyl.
  • compositions may also contain combinations of one or more of the above mentioned retinoids.
  • compositions which are particularly suitable for carrying out the invention contain a combination of retinol and malt extract.
  • Retinoids are known products which can be prepared according to methods known in the art.
  • the malt extract for use in the compositions of the present invention is prepared according to methods known in the art.
  • the malt extract may be aqueous, with various concentrations of dry material; or it may be in dry form.
  • the malt extract in particular is aqueous and may further contain components selected from preservatives, in particular preservatives commonly used in cosmetic formulations, suitable solvents such as mono- and/or polyols, e.g. glycols, glycerin and the like, and other components.
  • a preferred malt extract is aqueous and contains from about 1 to about 5 % of dry- material, more preferably from about 2 to about 3 % of dry material.
  • a particularly preferred malt extract is the product called 'BasalineTM' which is commercially available from the company Coletica (Lyon, France). This malt extract is aqueous and contains from about 2 to about 3% of dry material.
  • the w/w ratio of the retinoid to the malt extract may vary but in particular is in the range of about 1 : 200 to 2 : 1 , preferably from about 1 : 100 to about 1 : 1, or from about 1 : 100 to 1 : 10; more preferably from about 1 : 50 to about 1 : 3, still more preferably from about 1 : 10 to about 1 : 5.
  • the ratios in this paragraph are based on retinoid in pure form and on malt extract having the preferred concentration of 2 to 3 %.
  • the ratio In case the retinoid is used in admixture with other components, or as salt or in solution, the ratio evidently needs to be recalculated correspondingly. Similarly, if malt extract is used in concentrations different from 2 or 3%, or in dry form, the ratios also need recalculation. For example if dry malt extract is used, the amount of malt extract in the above mentioned ranges needs to be divided by a number between 50 and 33.3 (100/3).
  • compositions of the invention are prepared by mixing the retinoid and the malt extract, optionally in the presence of a suitable solvent. If desired, other components may be added. Alternatively, the retinoid and the malt extract may be mixed with the other components and the thus prepared mixtures may be combined to the desired composition.
  • compositions may also take the form of concentrates which subsequently are transformed into the desired composition by addition of solvent and/or other components.
  • Topical compositions comprise as well dermatological formulations (or topical pharmaceutical formulations), and cosmetical formulations.
  • Said topical formulations may further contain other ingredients or additives suited for external topical administration, in particular dermatologically or cosmetically acceptable ingredients or additives, including other active ingredients.
  • further ingredients or additives are surfactants, emulsifiers, consistency factors, conditioners, emollients, skin caring ingredients, moisturizers, thickeners, lubricants, fillers, binding agents, anti-oxidants, preservatives, active ingredients, in particular dermatologically active ingredients dyes, fragrances and the like.
  • Active ingredients as mentioned herein comprise, for example, anti-inflammatories, anti-bacterials, anti-fungals and the like agents. Of particular interest are any active ingredients suited for topical applications.
  • the topical formulations according to the invention can further include one or more of a variety of optional ingredients, such as coloring agents, opacifying agents and the like.
  • the retinoid and more specifically the retinol should be used in the formulations for topical application at concentrations from 0,001% to 0.5%, preferably from 0.01% to 0.2%), more preferably from 0.03%. to 0.15%, most preferably between 0.05% and 0.15%).
  • the malt extract should be used in the formulations for topical application at a concentration between 0.01% to 5% and preferably from 0.1 to 3%, most preferably between 0.2%> and 1%>.
  • retinol refers to pure retinol
  • malt extract refers to extract containing 2-3 %> of solid material.
  • the above percentages need to be recalculated accordingly.
  • compositions according to the present invention can be prepared by adding the appropriate ingredients to a composition of the invention, or vice versa by adding the composition to an appropriate cosmetic or dermatological formulation base. It is also possible to mix all the ingredients individually, i.e. without making a separate composition as defined herein.
  • the topical formulations according to the invention may be in various forms, e.g. in the form of a solution, a hydrophilic lotion, an ointment, a cream, a gel, an emulsion, in liposome form or formulated as a foaming product.
  • Emulsions can be, for example, in the form of oil-in- water, water-in-oil or multiple emulsions.
  • Preferred formulations are gel and cream based formulations.
  • Of particular interest are formulations based on oil-in-water emulsions.
  • an oily phase containing the oil-soluble components, is made separately which is added to any of the aqueous phases containing suitable emulsifiers.
  • the first aqueous phase is made containing one or more suitable emulsifiers.
  • the oily phase is made and added to the first phase while building an emulsion. Subsequently the second aqueous phase is added.
  • the first or oily phase contains solid or semi-solid components, it is recommendable to heat the phase or phases and to conduct the emulsifying process at elevated temperature.
  • the topical formulations according to the invention can further include one or more of a variety of additional ingredients commonly found in skin care compositions, such as for example, emollients, skin conditioning agents, emulsifying agents, humectants, preservatives, antioxidants, active ingredients, perfumes, chelating agents, dyes, opacifying agents, etc., provided that they are physically and chemically compatible with the other components of the composition.
  • additional ingredients commonly found in skin care compositions, such as for example, emollients, skin conditioning agents, emulsifying agents, humectants, preservatives, antioxidants, active ingredients, perfumes, chelating agents, dyes, opacifying agents, etc.
  • active agents which maybe incorporated comprise anti-microbials, e.g. anti-bacterials and antifungals, anti-inflammatory agents, anti-irritating compounds, anti-itching agents, moisturising agents, skin caring ingredients, plant extracts, vitamins, and the like. Also included are sunscreen actives which may be inorganic or organic in nature.
  • the preservative is present in an amount ranging from about 0.5 to about 2.0, preferably about 1.0 to about 1.5, weight percent based on the total composition.
  • the preservative is mixture of from about 0.2 to about 0.5 weight percent methylparaben, from about 0.2 to about 5.0 weight percent propylparaben and from about 0.05 to about 0.10 weight percent butylparaben.
  • PhenonipTM which is a practically colorless, viscous, liquid mixture of phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, and butylparaben available from Nipa Laboratories, Inc.
  • antioxidants should be present in the compositions or formulations according to the invention.
  • Suitable antioxidants include butylated hydroxy toluene (BHT), ascorbyl palmitate, butylated hydroanisole (BHA), phenyl- ⁇ -naphthylamine, hydroquinone, propyl gallate, nordihydroquiaretic acid, vitamin E or derivatives of vitamin E, vitamin C and derivatives thereof, calcium pantothenic, green tea extracts and mixed polyphenosls, and mixtures thereof of the above.
  • BHT butylated hydroxy toluene
  • BHA butylated hydroanisole
  • phenyl- ⁇ -naphthylamine hydroquinone
  • propyl gallate nordihydroquiaretic acid
  • vitamin E or derivatives of vitamin E vitamin C and derivatives thereof
  • calcium pantothenic, green tea extracts and mixed polyphenosls and mixtures thereof of the above.
  • Emollients which can be included in the compositions or formulations of the invention function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in the stratum corneum to act as lubricants, to reduce flaking, and to improve the skin appearance.
  • Typical emollients include fatty esters, fatty alcohols, mineral oil, polyether siloxane copolymers and the like.
  • emollients include, but are not limited to, polypropylene glycol ("PPG")- 15 stearyl ether, PPG- 10 cetyl ether, steareth-10, oleth-8, PPG-4 lauryl ether, vitamin E acetate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, lanolin, cetyl alcohol, octyl hydroxystearate, dimethicone, and combinations thereof. Cetyl alcohol, octyl hydroxystearate, dimethicone, and combinations thereof are preferred.
  • the emollient can be present in an amount from about 0.01 to about 5, preferably from about 1 to about 4 percent by weight based on the total composition.
  • Polyhydric alcohols can be utilized as humectants in the compositions or formulations of the invention.
  • the humectants aid in increasing the effectiveness of the emollient, reduce scaling, stimulate removal of built-up scale and improve skin feel.
  • Suitable polyhydric alcohols include, but are not limited to, glycerol (also known as glycerin), polyalkylene glycols, alkylene polyols and their derivatives, including butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof, sorbitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-dibutylene glycol, 1,2,6,-hexanetriol, ethoxylated glycerol, propoxylated glycerol and mixtures thereof.
  • Glycerin is preferred.
  • the humectant is present in an amount from about 0.1 to about 5, preferably
  • compositions and topical formulations subject of the present invention are useful to combat or to treat the effects of skin aging.
  • the latter comprise effects such as the appearance of fine lines, fine wrinkling, wrinkling, loss of skin firmness, skin tightening and suppleness.
  • the effects of skin aging are due to aging as such, but also to aging of the skin caused by external factors such as exposure to environmental factors such as exposure to sunlight, wind, atmospheric pollutants and the like, or a combination of these factors.
  • Retinoids and in particular retinol are known as agents that are effective in combating the effects of skin aging.
  • Malt extract on the other hand is known to stimulate the synthesis of collagen and other extracellular proteins in in vitro experiments.
  • malt extract has a positive effect on the properties of retinoids and in particular retinol, retinoids and in particular retinol and malt extract act synergistically.
  • these combinations show synergistic effects in their stimulation of the synthesis of laminin form human dermal equivalent at a concentration where no significant effect was detected with retinol or malt extract respectively.
  • the invention further provides a method for treating the effects of skin aging through the stimulation of laminin synthesis using a composition of the invention, in particular a composition containing a retinoid and malt extract.
  • the invention additionally relates to the management of the skin aging process through the reinforcement of the dermal epidermal junction and to the management of the appearance of skin.
  • compositions and formulations according to the invention have an improved effect on the effects of skin aging, in terms of efficacy and speed of action. These effects comprise a reduction in the number and/or depth of wrinkles and fine wrinkles, firming and tightening of the skin and better moisturization.
  • the compositions and formulations according to the invention provide a more youthful and smooth aspect to the skin and also unify the complexion and or prevent or decrease the appearance of age marks.
  • the compositions according to the invention are particularly suitable for combating wrinkles and slackening of the tissues. They also provide protection of the skin against environmental factors, in particular UN light, and environmental pollutants. They may also be used to prepare the skin to receive other cosmetic and make-up products.
  • the topical formulations of the invention may be applied in the morning and/or evening. They maybe applied on those parts of the body where skin aging is prominent, i.e. on the face, the body or the hands.
  • compositions and formulations according to the invention may be appropriate for improving the pigmentation and combating the appearance of age marks on the epidermis of the hands, as well as for increasing the firmness of the tissues in these areas, which have a tendency to become flaccid upon aging.
  • compositions and formulations according to the invention are particularly appropriate for treating the areas around the eyes and the lips, which are very fragile and are highly susceptible to the appearance of wrinkles and slackening of the skin. They make it possible to reduce visibly the number of wrinkles and the pockets under the eyes; they firm up the particularly sensitive skin around the eyes and the mouth.
  • the invention concerns the use of a combination of at least one retinoid with malt extract for the preparation of a composition designed to improve the elasticity of the skin and/or to combat the changes in the skin that are due to aging.
  • the invention further provides a method for the cosmetic treatment of photo-ageing and of intrinsic aging of the skin, the mucosae or the exoskeleton, in particular the face and the hands, which consists in applying the compositions or formulations as described herein.
  • steareth 10 1.4000 700.0 glyceryl distearate 2.8000 1400.0 cholesterol 1.0000 500.0 ceteareth 20 /stearyl alcohol 3.0000 1500.0 ceteareth 20 /cetearyl alcohol 3.0000 1500.0 stearyl alcohol 0.5000 250.0 octyl hydroxystearate 5.8014 2900.7 polysorbate 80 0.7000 350.0
  • BHT butylated hydroxy toluene 0.1000 50.0 tocopheryl acetate 0.1000 50.0
  • Retinol (40%) polysorbate 20/BHT 0.3130 156.50
  • aluminium starch octenyl succinate 1.5000 750.0 cyclomethicone 3.0000 1500.0
  • the components of a group in the above list (groups being separated by a space in the above list) are mixed together using standard formulation equipment. Subsequently the group mixtures are added to one another and mixed to the end product.
  • Dermis equivalent was obtained by seeding fibroblasts in a collagen gel and cultivating it during 3 weeks. Two different sets of dermis equivalent were prepared: one set with fibroblasts from donors aged between 25-35 and an other with fibroblasts from donors aged between 55-65. Dermis was then treated during 48 hours with retinol (2.10 "5 %) and BasalineTM (0.5%>). Culture supemantant was recovered and laminin level released in the culture medium was measured using ELISA methodology.
  • Table 1 Effect of retinol and BasalineTM on laminin production in dermis equivalent.
  • Laminin expression was expressed in nmol of laminin / mg of protein.

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Botany (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Biotechnology (AREA)
  • Microbiology (AREA)
  • Mycology (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Gerontology & Geriatric Medicine (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)
  • Medicines Containing Plant Substances (AREA)
EP02796759A 2001-12-20 2002-12-19 Retinoid und malzextrakt enthaltende zusammensetzung Withdrawn EP1458346A2 (de)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP02796759A EP1458346A2 (de) 2001-12-20 2002-12-19 Retinoid und malzextrakt enthaltende zusammensetzung

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP01403334 2001-12-20
EP01403334 2001-12-20
EP02796759A EP1458346A2 (de) 2001-12-20 2002-12-19 Retinoid und malzextrakt enthaltende zusammensetzung
PCT/EP2002/014871 WO2003053327A2 (en) 2001-12-20 2002-12-19 Compositions containing a retinoid and malt extract

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP1458346A2 true EP1458346A2 (de) 2004-09-22

Family

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Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP02796759A Withdrawn EP1458346A2 (de) 2001-12-20 2002-12-19 Retinoid und malzextrakt enthaltende zusammensetzung

Country Status (3)

Country Link
EP (1) EP1458346A2 (de)
AU (1) AU2002361241A1 (de)
WO (1) WO2003053327A2 (de)

Families Citing this family (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CH693818A5 (it) * 2003-07-21 2004-02-27 Gecomwert Anstalt Preparato per uso topico con efficacia elasticizzante e modellante sui tessuti cutanei.
JP7655530B2 (ja) * 2020-12-11 2025-04-02 日本メナード化粧品株式会社 真皮幹細胞の分化促進剤

Family Cites Families (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2749511B1 (fr) * 1996-06-07 1998-08-28 Roc Sa Methode cosmetique de traitement et de prevention des signes du vieillissement de la peau
JPH1149684A (ja) * 1997-08-08 1999-02-23 Kayaku:Kk 更年期用の皮膚外用剤

Non-Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
See references of WO03053327A2 *

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
AU2002361241A1 (en) 2003-07-09
AU2002361241A8 (en) 2003-07-09
WO2003053327A3 (en) 2004-01-15
WO2003053327A2 (en) 2003-07-03

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