EP1492491A2 - Emulsions cosmetiques ou pharmaceutiques a base de gouttelettes d'huile reticulees - Google Patents

Emulsions cosmetiques ou pharmaceutiques a base de gouttelettes d'huile reticulees

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Publication number
EP1492491A2
EP1492491A2 EP03745274A EP03745274A EP1492491A2 EP 1492491 A2 EP1492491 A2 EP 1492491A2 EP 03745274 A EP03745274 A EP 03745274A EP 03745274 A EP03745274 A EP 03745274A EP 1492491 A2 EP1492491 A2 EP 1492491A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
peg
emulsifier
oil
acid
polyethylene glycol
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
EP03745274A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Jörg SCHREIBER
Khiet Hien Diec
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Beiersdorf AG
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf AG
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Beiersdorf AG filed Critical Beiersdorf AG
Publication of EP1492491A2 publication Critical patent/EP1492491A2/fr
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86—Polyethers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to oil-in-water emulsions, processes for their preparation and their use for cosmetic or pharmaceutical purposes. She . are particularly used topically, used as impregnation medium for wipes or foamed.
  • Cosmetic skin care is primarily understood to mean that the natural function of the skin as a barrier against environmental influences (e.g. dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against the loss of the body's own substances (e.g. water, natural fats, electrolytes) is strengthened or restored.
  • environmental influences e.g. dirt, chemicals, microorganisms
  • loss of the body's own substances e.g. water, natural fats, electrolytes
  • the aim of skin care is also to compensate for the loss of fat and water in the skin caused by daily washing. This is especially important when the natural regeneration ability is insufficient.
  • skin care products are intended to protect against environmental influences, especially sun and wind, and to delay skin aging.
  • Medicinal topical compositions comprise one or more control Me ⁇ dikêt in an effective concentration.
  • Me ⁇ dikrait in an effective concentration.
  • Gels are the usual and increasingly popular cosmetic and dermatological preparation forms.
  • finely dispersed droplets of the second phase water droplets in W / O or lipid vesicles in O / W emulsions
  • the droplet diameters of the common emulsions are in the range from approx. 200 ⁇ m to approx. 50 ⁇ m.
  • Such "macroemulsions" are colored milky white and opaque without any additional coloring additives.
  • the present invention relates to special embodiments of cosmetic and dermatological light protection preparations, in particular skin care cosmetic and dermatological light protection preparations.
  • UVC range rays with a wavelength shorter than 290 nm
  • UVB range rays in the range between 290 nm and 320 nm, the so-called UVB range, cause erythema simple sunburn or even more or less severe burns.
  • UVA range It is also important to have filter substances available for the range between about 320 nm and about 400 nm, the so-called UVA range, since their rays can also cause damage. It has been shown that UVA radiation leads to damage to the elastic and collagen fibers of the connective tissue, which causes the skin to age prematurely, and that it can be seen as the cause of numerous phototoxic and photoallergic reactions. The damaging influence of UVB radiation can be intensified by UVA radiation.
  • UV radiation can also lead to photochemical reactions, in which case the photochemical reaction products interfere with the skin's metabolism.
  • antioxidants and / or free radical scavengers can be incorporated into the cosmetic or dermatological formulations.
  • UV absorbers or UV reflectors are most inorganic pigments that are known to be used in cosmetics to protect the skin from UV rays. These are oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum, cerium and mixtures thereof, as well as modifications.
  • Crosslinked creams are also suitable for other cosmetic dermatological applications, for example deodorants, so that the present invention relates in a particular embodiment to these creams as the basis for cosmetic deodorants.
  • Cosmetic deodorants are used to eliminate body odor that arises when the fresh, odorless sweat is decomposed by microorganisms.
  • the usual cosmetic deodorants are based on different active principles.
  • astringents primarily aluminum - can salts such as aluminum hydroxychloride (aluminum chloride) - the formation of sweat can be reduced.
  • the use of antimicrobial substances in cosmetic deodorants can reduce the bacterial flora on the skin. Ideally, only the odor-causing microorganisms should be effectively reduced. The sweat flow itself is not affected by this, in the ideal case only the microbial decomposition of the sweat is temporarily stopped.
  • Deodorants should meet the following conditions:
  • liquid deodorants for example aerosol sprays, roll-ons and the like
  • solid preparations for example deodorant sticks ("sticks"), powder, powder sprays, intimate cleansing agents, etc.
  • preparation forms such as cleaning products, face and body care preparations, but also very medicinal-pharmaceutical forms of administration should be created, for example preparations for acne and other skin symptoms.
  • the invention therefore relates to facial cleansing products, preferably make-up removers, for example eye makeup removers or face care and body care creams / lotions, make-up removal emulsions, cleansing creams / lotions, sunscreen creams / lotions, anti-wrinkle creams, hair creams, repellent creams, after-sun -Emulsions, shower creams, aftershave emulsions, shaving creams, deodorant / AT emulsions, anti-acne creams / lotions.
  • make-up removers for example eye makeup removers or face care and body care creams / lotions, make-up removal emulsions, cleansing creams / lotions, sunscreen creams / lotions, anti-wrinkle creams, hair creams, repellent creams, after-sun -Emulsions, shower creams, aftershave emulsions, shaving creams, deodorant / AT emulsions, anti-acne creams
  • Waterproof eye make-up for example mascara
  • make-up removers on an aqueous basis using special surfactants.
  • these surfactants often have only limited physiological tolerance. When such substances come into contact with the mucous membrane, in particular the mucous membrane of the eyes, these substances cause irritation, which is manifested, for example, in reddening of the eyes. Reactions of this kind are typical for products containing surfactants.
  • An object of the present invention was therefore to remedy such problems.
  • the present invention relates to hair cosmetic preparations.
  • the present invention relates to hair cosmetic preparations for the care of the hair and the scalp.
  • the present invention relates to preparations which serve to strengthen the individual hair and / or to give the hair style overall hold and fullness.
  • human hair can be divided into the living part, the hair root, and the dead part, the hair shaft.
  • the hair shaft in turn consists of the medulla, which, however, has become insignificant and regressed for modern humans due to developmental history and is often completely absent with thin hair, furthermore the cortex enclosing the medulla and the cuticle enveloping the whole of medulla and cortex.
  • the cuticle in particular, but also the keratinous area between the cuticle and cortex as the outer covering of the hair, are particularly exposed to environmental influences, by combing and brushing, but also by hair treatment, in particular hair coloring and hair shaping, e.g. Perm method, exposed.
  • the inside of the hair can also be affected.
  • oxidants such as hydrogen peroxide
  • the inside of the hair can also be affected.
  • oxidizing hair dyeing the dye chromophore is formed by the reaction of precursors (phenols, aminophenols, less often diamines) and bases (mostly p-phenylenediamine) with the oxidizing agent, usually hydrogen peroxide. Hydrogen peroxide concentrations around 6% are usually used.
  • the hydrogen peroxide also has a bleaching effect. Similar to bleached hair, microscopic holes in the areas where melanin granules were present can be detected in oxidatively colored human hair. The fact is that the oxidizing agent hydrogen peroxide not only reacts with the color precursors, but also with the hair substance and can cause damage to the hair.
  • washing hair with aggressive surfactants can stress the hair, at least reduce its appearance or the appearance of the hairstyle overall.
  • certain water-soluble hair components e.g. urea, uric acid, xanthine, keratin, glycogen, citric acid, lactic acid
  • hair care cosmetics have been used for some time, which are intended to be rinsed out of the hair after exposure, some of which are intended to remain on the hair.
  • the latter can be formulated in such a way that they not only serve to care for the individual hair, but also improve the overall appearance of the hairstyle, for example by giving the hair more volume, fixing the hairstyle over a longer period of time or improving its manageability.
  • Quaternary ammonium compounds can significantly improve the combability of the hair. Such connections are drawn onto the hair and are often still detectable on the hair after several washes.
  • a particular object of the present invention was to provide preparations based on finely dispersed, crosslinked oil-in-water emulsions with the lowest possible emulsifier content, which do not have the disadvantages of the prior art and which are suitable for a wide variety of cosmetic and / or dermatological applications, for example the uses described above.
  • Another object of the invention was to enrich the limited range of preparations based on finely dispersed, crosslinked oil-in-water emulsions of the prior art.
  • viscous O / W emulsions of the prior art are advantageously fine-particle without thickeners (low-viscosity O / W emulsions) (for example PIT emulsions) and often only by adding the thickeners (polymers) as a result of interaction the finely divided droplets with the thickener polymer backbone pass into coarser O W droplets.
  • thickeners polymers
  • the thickeners polymers
  • the invention relates to a process for the preparation of emulsions of the oil-in-water type, comprising a water phase and an oil phase which is composed essentially of non-volatile constituents, comprising at least one oil-in-water emulsifier and, if appropriate, a W / O Emulsifier and at least one crosslinker, and optionally auxiliaries, additives and / or active ingredients,
  • the droplets of the discontinuous oil phase are connected to one another by one or more crosslinking substances.
  • the crosslinker structure is distinguished by at least one hydrophilic region which has an extent which is suitable for bridging the spacing between the emulsion droplets and by at least one hydrophobic region, in particular at least two hydrophobic regions which come into hydrophobic interaction with the emulsion droplets capital. If only one hydrophobic region is present, emulsions can arise in which entanglements of the hydrophilic domains of several polymers occur. A cross-linked O / W emulsion is also obtained in this way.
  • crosslinking substance forms an independent gel network in which the emulsion droplets are then held in place by hydrophobic interaction (so-called associative thickeners are present), or whether the network is held together by the crosslinking with the emulsion droplets at the nodes of the Network is effected.
  • the droplet diameters of the preparations according to the invention are preferably in the ranges mentioned at the beginning.
  • the droplet size distribution curve of the low-viscosity emulsion surprisingly does not change or changes only slightly in comparison to the crosslinked emulsion, in contrast to the increase in viscosity of low-viscosity emulsions with classic thickeners, in which an increase in the original droplets can be observed.
  • the invention therefore also relates to the use of crosslinking agents to stabilize the droplet size of low-viscosity O / W emulsions while increasing the viscosity.
  • the crosslinking substances (one or more) advantageously used according to the invention generally follow structural schemes as follows:
  • B symbolizes a hydrophilic region of the respective crosslinker molecule and A each represents hydrophobic regions, which may also be of a different chemical nature within a molecule.
  • Z represents a central unit, which can be hydrophilic or hydrophobic and usually consists of an oligo- or polyfunctional molecular residue.
  • crosslinkers with a higher degree of branching also fall within the scope of the present invention.
  • Z can consist of a glyceryl residue, the three OH functions of which merge into regions B, which in turn can represent polyoxyethylene chains of the same or different lengths, and whose terminal OH group is esterified with a longer-chain fatty acid. Partial substitution of glycerol is also conceivable, which can result in structures which correspond to scheme (9).
  • the hydrophilic groups B can advantageously be chosen so that the crosslinking agent is water-soluble or at least dispersible in water, the hydrophobic portion of groups A then being overcompensated.
  • RR 2 , R 3 , R 4 , R 5 and R 6 can independently represent branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or chain-shaped aliphatic, aromatic or heteroaromatic radicals, for example branched or unbranched or cyclic alkyl or alkanoyl radicals, with alkyl - Aryl substituents or substituted or unsubstituted aryl or aroyl residues or also alkylated or arylated organylsilyl residues.
  • x means numbers which allow the entire molecule to be soluble or at least dispersible in water, typically selected from the range greater than 10, advantageously from the range 20-300.
  • a and b are numbers which are selected as a function of x , in such a way that the total molecule has at least sufficient water solubility or water dispersibility.
  • x can also assume values which are significantly higher than 300, even several million. This is known per se to the person skilled in the art and requires no further explanation.
  • the structure scheme (2) for example, the following more specific structure schemes can be followed:
  • R 1, R 2 and R 3 can independently represent branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or chain-like aliphatic, aromatic or heteroaromatic radicals, for example branched or unbranched or cyclic alkyl or alkanoyl radicals, aryl substituted or unsubstituted by alkyl or aryl substituents - or aroyl residues or also alkylated or arylated organylsilyl residues.
  • x, y and z mean, independently of one another, numbers which allow the entire molecule to be soluble or at least dispersible in water, typically selected from the range greater than 10, advantageously from the range 20-300.
  • Partial substitution is also conceivable, where one or more of the indices x, y or z can assume the value zero and one or more of the radicals R ( R 2 or R 3 can represent hydrogen atoms.
  • R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 can independently represent branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or chain-shaped aliphatic, aromatic or heteroaromatic radicals, for example branched or unbranched or cyclic alkyl or alkanoyl radicals, with alkyl or Aryl substituents substituted or unsubstituted aryl or aroyl residues or also alkylated or arylated organylsilyl residues.
  • u, v, w and x mean, independently of one another, numbers which allow the entire molecule to be soluble or at least dispersible in water, typically selected from the range greater than 10, advantageously from the range 20-300.
  • R 1, R 2 , R 3 and R can independently represent branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or chain-like aliphatic, aromatic or heteroaromatic radicals, for example branched or unbranched or cyclic alkyl or alkanoyl radicals, substituted by alkyl or aryl substituents or unsubstituted aryl or aroyl residues or also alkylated or arylated organylsilyl residues.
  • x and y mean, independently of one another, numbers which allow the entire molecule to be soluble or at least dispersible in water, typically selected from the range greater than 10, advantageously from the range 20-300.
  • R 1 , R 2 and R 3 can independently represent branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or chain-like aliphatic, aromatic or heteroaromatic radicals, for example branched or unbranched or cyclic alkyl or alkanoyl radicals, substituted by alkyl or aryl substituents or unsubstituted aryl or aroyl residues or also alkylated or arylated organylsilyl residues.
  • x, y and z mean, independently of one another, numbers which allow the entire molecule to be soluble or at least dispersible in water, typically selected from the range greater than 10, advantageously from the range 20-300.
  • R 1, R 2 , R 3 and R can independently represent branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or chain-like aliphatic, aromatic or heteroaromatic radicals, for example branched or unbranched or cyclic alkyl or alkanoyl radicals, substituted by alkyl or aryl substituents or unsubstituted aryl or aroyl residues or also alkylated or arylated organylsilyl residues.
  • u, v, w and x mean independently of each other numbers that it Allow the entire molecule to be soluble or at least dispersible in water, typically selected from the range greater than 10, advantageously from the range 20-300.
  • k, l, m and n can independently represent numbers from 0 to 50.
  • R 1, R 2 , R 3 , R and R 5 can independently represent branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or chain-like aliphatic, aromatic or heteroaromatic radicals, for example branched or unbranched or cyclic alkyl or alkanoyl radicals, with alkyl or Aryl substituents substituted or unsubstituted aryl or aroyl residues or also alkylated or arylated organylsilyl residues.
  • u, v, w, x and y mean, independently of one another, numbers which allow the entire molecule to be soluble or at least dispersible in water, typically selected from the range greater than 10, advantageously from the range 20-100.
  • R L R 2 , R 3 , R 4 , R 5 and R 6 can independently represent branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or chain-like aliphatic, aromatic or heteroaromatic radicals, for example branched or unbranched or cyclic alkyl or alkanoyl radicals, with alkyl or aryl substituents substituted or unsubstituted aryl or aroyl radicals or also alkylated or arylated organylsilyl radicals.
  • u, v, w, x, y and z mean, independently of one another, numbers which allow the entire molecule to be soluble or at least dispersible in water, typically selected from the range greater than 10, advantageously from the range 20-1000.
  • crosslinkers have been found to be those selected from the group of polyethylene glycol ethers of the general formula RO - (- CH 2 -CH 2 -O-) n -R ', where
  • R and R ' are independently branched or unbranched alkyl, aryl or
  • Alkenyl radicals and n represent a number greater than 100, the etherified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula
  • R-COO - (- CH 2 -CH 2 -O-) ⁇ -R ' where R and R' independently branched or unbranched alkyl, aryl or alkenyl radicals and n represent a number greater than 100, of the esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH 2 -CH 2 -O-) ⁇ -C (O) -R ⁇ where R and R independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl, aryl or alkenyl radicals and n is a number greater than 100, the polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula RO - (- CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) -O-) n -R ', where R and R 'independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl, aryl or alkenyl radicals and n is a number greater than 100, of the esterified fatty acid propoxylates of
  • PEG-150 distearate, PEG 800 distearate, PEG-800 Chol 2 and the PEG-150 dioleate are particularly advantageous.
  • PEG-300-pentaerythrityitetraisostearate, PEG-120 methylglucose dioleate, PEG-160-sorbitan triisostearate, PEG-450-sorbitol hexaisostearate and PEG-230-glyceryl triisostearate can also be used advantageously as crosslinkers.
  • PEG-200 glyceryl palmitate is also suitable.
  • the crosslinker from Südchemie with the designation Purethix 1442 (Poiyether-1) is also advantageous.
  • polyurethane crosslinking agents can also be used, such as Rheolate 204, 205, 208 (Rheox company) or modified cosmetic variants or DW 1206B from Rhom & Haas or Serad Fx 1010, 1035 from Hüls. It is also advantageous to use mixtures of the polymers described above, for example from PEG 800 distearate and PEG-800 Chol 2 .
  • a slightly modified way of forming emulsions according to the invention consists in immobilizing the oil droplets using hydrophobically modified, synthetic or natural polymers. Such polymers are sometimes also referred to as associative thickeners.
  • the backbone of a water-soluble or water-dispersible crosslinking agent is represented by lines, the branching points representing hydrophobic groups covalently bound to the polymer, here symbolized by rectangles.
  • the hydrophobic residues can attach to one another through hydrophobic interaction.
  • Emulsion droplets can also attach to the crosslinking sites through hydrophobic interactions. It is fundamentally irrelevant whether the hydrophobic residues "immerse” or whether the hydrophobic residues only come into contact with the emulsion droplets on the surface and adhere more or less strongly to them.
  • crosslinker (s) are to be selected from the group of associative thickeners, to select hydrophobically substituted polysaccharide derivatives, for example hydrophobically substituted cellulose ethers, hydrophobically substituted starches, alginates, glucans, chitins, dextrans, caseinates, pectins , Proteins and gums, also polyurethanes, polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohols, polyacrylates, water-soluble silicone polymers and the like.
  • hydrophobically substituted polysaccharide derivatives for example hydrophobically substituted cellulose ethers, hydrophobically substituted starches, alginates, glucans, chitins, dextrans, caseinates, pectins , Proteins and gums, also polyurethanes, polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohols, polyacrylates, water-soluble silicone polymers and the like.
  • cetylhydroxyethyl cellulose can advantageously be used.
  • crosslinker (s) used according to the invention may also be advantageous if the crosslinker (s) used according to the invention has or have physiological activity in the sense of a cosmetic or pharmaceutical effect.
  • the biosurfactant esters disclosed in German Offenlegungsschrift 43 44 661 can advantageously be used for the purposes of the present invention.
  • inorganic thickeners can also be used.
  • the inorganic thickener (s) can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of modified or unmodified, naturally occurring or synthetic layered silicates.
  • Very advantageous inorganic gelling agents in the sense of the present invention are aluminum silicates such as montmorillonites (bentonites, hectorites and their derivatives such as quaternium-18 bentonite, quaternium-18 hectorites, stearalkonium bentonites or stearalkonium hectorites) or magnesium-aluminum silicates (Veegum®- Types) as well as sodium-magnesium silicates (Laponite® types).
  • BentoneD is a trade name for various neutral and chemically inert gelling agents that are made up of long-chain, organic ammonium salts and special types of montmorillonite.
  • the group of cosmetically and dermatologically relevant hydrocolloids can be, for example:
  • Organic, natural compounds such as agar agar, carrageenan, tragacanth, gum arabic, alginates, pectins, polyoses, guar flour, locust bean gum, starch, dextrins, gelatin, casein,.
  • organic, modified natural substances such as B. carboxymethyl cellulose and other cellulose ethers, hydroxyethyl and propyl cellulose and microcrystalline cellulose like.
  • organic, fully synthetic compounds such as. B. polyacrylic and polymethacrylic compounds, vinyl polymers, polycarboxylic acids, polyethers, polyimines, polyamides, polyurethanes. inorganic compounds, such as. B.
  • polysilicic acids clay minerals such as montmorillonites, zeolites, silicas.
  • Further hydrocolloids which are advantageous according to the invention are, for example, methyl celluloses, as the methyl ethers of cellulose are referred to. They are characterized by the following structural formula
  • R can represent a hydrogen or a methyl group.
  • R can represent a hydrogen or a methyl group.
  • Particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention are the cellulose mixed ethers, which are generally also referred to as methyl celluloses and which, in addition to a dominant content of methyl, additionally contain 2-hydroxyethyl, 2-hydroxypropyl or 2-hydroxybutyl groups. (Hydroxypropyl) methyl celluloses are particularly preferred, for example those sold under the trade name Methocel® E4M by Dow Chemical Comp. available.
  • sodium carboxymethyl cellulose the sodium salt of the glycolic acid ether of cellulose, for which R in structural formula I can be a hydrogen and / or CH 2 -COONa.
  • R in structural formula I can be a hydrogen and / or CH 2 -COONa.
  • Particularly preferred are the sodium carboxymethyl cellulose available under the trade name Natrosol Plus 330 CS from Aqualon, also referred to as cellulose gum.
  • xanthan (CAS No. 11138-66-2), also called xanthan gum, which is an anionic heteropolysaccharide which is generally formed from corn sugar by fermentation and is isolated as the potassium salt. It is produced by Xanthomonas campestris and some other species under aerobic conditions with a molecular weight of 2x10 ⁇ to 24x10 ⁇ .
  • Xanthan is formed from a chain with ⁇ -1,4-linked glucose (cellulose) with side chains. The structure of the subgroups consists of glucose, mannose, glucuronic acid, acetate and pyruvate.
  • Xanthan is the name for the first microbial anionic heteropolysaccharide.
  • Xanthan is formed from a chain with ß-1, 4-bound glucose (cellulose) with side chains.
  • the structure of the subgroups consists of glucose, mannose, glucuronic acid, acetate and pyruvate.
  • the number of pyruvate units determines the viscosity of the xanthane.
  • Xanthan is produced in two-day batch cultures with a yield of 70-90%, based on the carbohydrate used. Yields of 25-30 g / l are achieved. The work-up takes place after killing the culture by precipitation with z.
  • B. 2-propanol. Xanthan is then dried and ground.
  • An advantageous gel former in the sense of the present invention is carrageenan, a Gel-forming and similar to agar extract from North Atlantic red algae (Chondrus crispus and Gigartina stellata), which is one of the florids.
  • carrageen is often used for the dried algae product and carrageenan for the extract from it.
  • the carrageenan precipitated from the hot water extract of the algae is a colorless to sand-colored powder with a molecular weight range of 100,000-800,000 and a sulfate content of approx. 25%.
  • Carrageenan which is very easily soluble in warm water; a thixotropic gel forms on cooling, even if the water content is 95-98%. The firmness of the gel is brought about by the double helix structure of the carrageenan.
  • the gel-forming ⁇ fraction consists of D-galactose-4-sulfate and 3,6-anhydro- ⁇ -D-galactose, which are alternately glycosidically linked in the 1,3 and 1,4 positions (In contrast, agar contains 3,6-anhydro- ⁇ -L-gaiactose).
  • the non-gelling ⁇ fraction is composed of 1,3-glycosidically linked D-galactose-2-sulfate and 1,4-linked D-galactose-2,6-disulfate residues u. Easily soluble in cold water.
  • the ⁇ -carrageenan composed of D-galactose-4-sulfate in 1,3-bond and 3,6-anhydro- -D-galactose-2-sulfate in 1,4-bond is both water-soluble and gel-forming.
  • the type of cations present (K + , NH + , Na + , Mg 2+ , Ca 2+ ) also influences the solubility of the carrageenans.
  • Chitossan is a partially deacylated chitin.
  • this biopolymer has film-forming properties and is characterized by a silky feeling on the skin.
  • a disadvantage, however, is its strong stickiness on the skin, which occurs in particular - temporarily - during use. Appropriate preparations may then not be marketable in individual cases because they are not accepted by consumers or judged negatively.
  • Chitosan is known to be used, for example, in hair care. It is more suitable than the chitin on which it is based, as a thickener or stabilizer and improves the adhesion and water resistance of polymer films.
  • Polyacrylates are also advantageous gelators to be used in the sense of the present invention.
  • Polyacrylates which are advantageous according to the invention are acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers, in particular those which are selected from the group of the so-called carbomers or carbopols (Carbopol® is actually a registered trademark of the B.F. Goodrich Company).
  • the acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers which are advantageous according to the invention are distinguished by the following structure:
  • R ' represents a long-chain alkyl radical and x and y numbers which symbolize the respective stoichiometric proportion of the respective comonomers.
  • acrylate copolymers and / or acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers which are available from the BFGoodrich Company under the trade names Carbopol® 1382, Carbopol® 981 and Carbopol® 5984, preferably polyacrylates from the group of carbopols of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984 and particularly preferably Carbomer 2001
  • ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / vinylpyrrolidone copolymers advantageously have the empirical formula [C 7 H 16 ⁇ 2 SO 4 ] n [C 6 H 9 NO] m , corresponding to a statistical structure as follows
  • copolymers / crosspolymers comprising acryloyldimethyl taurates such as Simugel® EG or Simugel® EG from Seppic S.A.
  • water-soluble or dispersible anionic polyurethanes which are advantageously obtainable from i) at least one compound which contains two or more active hydrogen atoms per molecule, ii) at least one diol containing acid or salt groups and iii) at least one diisocyanate.
  • Component i) is in particular diols, amino alcohols, slide i- ne, polyesterols, polyetherols with a number average molecular weight of up to 3000 each, or mixtures thereof, it being possible for up to 3 mol% of the compounds mentioned to be replaced by triols or triamines.
  • Diols and polyester diols are preferred.
  • component (a) comprises at least 50% by weight, based on the total weight of component (a), of a polyester diol.
  • Suitable polyester diols are all those which are customarily used for the production of polyurethanes, in particular reaction products of phthalic acid and diethylene glycol, isophthalic acid and 1,4-butanediol, isophthalic acid / adipic acid and 1,6-hexanediol and adipic acid and ethylene glycol or 5- NaSO 3 isophthalic acid, phthalic acid, adipic acid and 1, 6-hexanediol.
  • Useful diols are e.g. Ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, polyetherols, such as polyethylene glycols with molecular weights up to 3000, block copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide with number average molecular weights of up to 3000 or block copolymers of ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and butylene oxide, which distribute the alkylene oxide units statistically or in the form of Polymerized blocks included.
  • Ethylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, di-, tri-, tetra-, penta or hexaethylene glycol are preferred.
  • Diols which can also be used are poly (D-hydroxycarboxylic acid) diols.
  • Suitable amino alcohols are e.g. 2-aminoethanol, 2- (N-methylamino) ethanol, 3-aminopropanol or 4-aminobutanol.
  • Suitable diamines are e.g. Ethylene diamine, propylene diamine, 1, 4-diaminobutane and 1, 6-diaminohexane as well as ⁇ , ⁇ -diamines, which can be produced by amination of polyalkylene oxides with ammonia.
  • Component ii) is in particular dimethylolpropanoic acid or compounds of the formulas
  • RR stands for a C 2 -C 18 alkylene group and Me stands for Na or K.
  • Water-soluble or dispersible, cationic polyurethanes and polyureas composed of a) at least one diisocyanate, which may have previously been reacted with one or more compounds which contain two or more active hydrogen atoms per molecule, and b) at least one Diol, primary or secondary amino alcohol, primary or secondary diamine or primary or secondary triamine with one or more tertiary, quaternary or protonated tertiary amino nitrogen atoms.
  • Preferred diisocyanates are as indicated under 1) above.
  • Compounds with two or more active hydrogen atoms are diols, amino alcohols, diamines, polyesterols.
  • Polyamide diamines and polyetherols. Suitable compounds of this type are indicated as under 1) above.
  • the polyurethanes are produced as described under 1) above.
  • Charged cationic groups can be generated from the tertiary amino nitrogen atoms present either by protonation, for example with carboxylic acids such as lactic acid, or by quaternization, for example with alkylating agents such as C 1 -C 4 -alkyl halides or sulfates in the polyureas.
  • alkylating agents such as C 1 -C 4 -alkyl halides or sulfates in the polyureas. Examples of such alkylating agents are ethyl chloride, ethyl bromide, methyl chloride, methyl bromide, dimethyl sulfate and di- ethylsulfate.
  • RR ' represents a hydrogen atom or a C -] - C20 alkyl group which is used in an amount sufficient to have 0.35 to 2.25 milliequivalents of carboxyl groups per g of polyurethane in the polyurethane,
  • the carboxyl groups contained in the polyurethane are finally at least partially neutralized with a suitable base.
  • Carboxyl-containing polycondensation products from anhydrides of tri- or tetracarboxylic acids and diols, diamines or amino alcohols (polyesters, polyamides or polyester amides). These polymers and their preparation are described in more detail in DE-A-42 24 761, to which reference is hereby made in full.
  • the total amount of one or more hydrocolloids in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously chosen to be less than 5% by weight, preferably between 0.01 and 1.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • the preparations according to the invention can advantageously each contain 0.001-20% by weight of one or more crosslinking agents and non-crosslinking thickeners used according to the invention. It is preferred to select the content of thickeners and crosslinking agents in each case from 0.01 to 10% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 5% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • oils and fats customary in cosmetics can be used as the oil phase.
  • the process according to the invention enables the production of finely divided emulsions with a large number of typical oil phases: ethers (dicaprylyl ether), carbonates (dicaprylyl carbonate), butylene glycol esters (butylene glycol caprylates, caprates), tartaric acid esters, (di-C12-13 alkyl tartrates), succinates (caprylic / capric Diglyceryl Succinate), Triglyceride (Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride), Alcohols (Octyldodecanol), Ester Oils (Cetearyl Isonoanoate), Glyceride (Cocoglyceride), Hydrocarbons (Mineral Oil, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Isoeicosan, Dioctylcyclohexalen (Squalene) Squalene, Silicon, Squalene, Silicon, Squalene, Silicon, Squalene, Silicon, Squalene,
  • waxes part of the oil phase may be, for example, methyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, C 20 - 40 alkyl stearate, C eighteenth 3 6-acid triglyceride.
  • O / W emulsifier 0.01-60%, especially 0.1-10%
  • W / O emulsifier 0.1-60%, especially 0.1-10%
  • Oil phase 0.01 - 50%, especially 0.1 - 30%
  • additives for the oil phase 0.01-20%, especially 0.1-15% additives for the water phase: 0.01-80%, especially 0.1-60% crosslinking agents 0.01-20%, especially 0.1-10%
  • Crosslinked systems based on emulsions of the oil-in-water type which comprise a discontinuous oil phase and a continuous water phase optionally containing at least one W / O emulsifier containing at least one O / W emulsifier, wherein the O / W emulsifier or the O / W emulsifiers is advantageously chosen or are selected from the group of fatty alcohol ethoxylates of the general formula RO - (- CH 2 -CH 2 -O-) n -H, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl, Aryl or alkenyl radical and n represent a number from 10 to 50 of the ethoxylated / propoxylated wool wax alcohols, the polyethylene glycol ether of the general formula RO - (- CH 2 -CH 2 -O-) n -R ⁇ where R and R 'independently of one another or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals and n represent a
  • R-COO - (- CH 2 -CH 2 -O-) n -H where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical and n is a number from 10 to 40, of the etherified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO- ( -CH 2 -CH 2 -O-) n -R ⁇ where R and R 'independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals and n is a number from 10 to 80, of the esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH 2 -CH 2 -O-) n -C (O) -R ', where R and R' independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals and n is a number from 10 to 80, the saturated and / or unsaturated polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters ,
  • RO - (- CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) -O-) ⁇ -R ' where R and R' independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals and n is a number from 10 to 80 of the etherified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) -O-) n -R ⁇ where R and R 'independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals and n is a number from 10 to 80, the esterified fatty acid propoxylates of general formula R-COO - (- CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) -O-) n -C (O) -R ', where R and R' independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals and n is a number of 10 represent to 80, the fatty acid propoxylates of the
  • R-COO - (- CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) -O-) n -H where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical and n is a number from 10 to 80, the polypropylene glycoiglycerol fatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched fatty acids and a degree of propoxylation between 3 and 80 of the propoxylated sorbitan esters with a degree of propoxylation of 3 to 100 the cholesterol propoxylates with a degree of propoxylation of 3 to 100 of the propoxylated triglycerides with a degree of propoxylation of 3 to 100 of the alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula
  • RO - (- CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) O-) n -CH 2 -COOH or their cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable salts where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical and n is a number from 3 to 50, the alkyl ether sulfates or the acids on which these sulfates are based, of the general formula RO - (- CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) -O-) n -SO 3 -H with cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable cations, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or Alkenyl radical with 5-30 carbon atoms and n represent a number from 1 to 50, the fatty alcohol ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula ROX n -Y m -H, where R represents a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical, where X and Y are not identical and each represent either an oxyethylene group
  • ROX n -Y m -R ' where R and R' independently represent branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals, where X and Y are not identical and each have either an oxyethylene group or an oxypropylene group and n and m are independently numbers from 5 to 100 represent the etherified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO-X n -Y m -R ', where R and R' independently represent branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals, where X and Y are not identical and each have either an oxyethylene group or an oxypropylene group and n and m independently of one another represent numbers from 5 to 100, the fatty acid ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula R-COO-Xn-Y m -H, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical, where X and Y are not are identical and each represent either an an
  • Hydroxycarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 - 24, especially 12 - 18 C-
  • the glycerin fatty acid citrate the water-dispersible silicone emulsifier the polyglycerol ester (saturated and unsaturated) with a chain length of
  • the W / O emulsifiers (one or more) optionally contained can preferably be selected from the group
  • fatty alcohol ethoxylates of the general formula RO - (- CH 2 -CH 2 -O-) n -H, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl, aryl or alkenyl radical and n is a number from 1 to 10
  • polyethylene glycol ether of the general formula RO - (- CH 2 -CH 2 -O-) n -R ', where R and R' independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals and n is a number from 1 to 30
  • Alkyl or alkenyl radicals and n represent a number from 1 to 20,
  • esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH 2 -CH 2 -O-) n -C (O) -R ', where R and R' independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals and n is a number of Represent 1 to 20,
  • esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH 2 -CH 2 -O-) n -C (O) -R ⁇ where R and R 'independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or alkenyl radicals and n is a number represent from 1 to 40,
  • RO - (- CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) -O-) n -H where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical and n is a number from 1 to 30,
  • polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester based on branched or unbranched alkanoic or alkenoic acids and having a degree of ethoxylation of 1 to 10
  • cholesterol ethoxylates with a degree of ethoxylation between 1 and 10,
  • the polyglycerol mono- or di- or polyester the fatty acids independently of one another being branched or unbranched alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or alkenyl radicals,
  • the pentaerythritol ester the fatty acids being used independently of one another represent branched or unbranched alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or alkenyl radicals,
  • the propylene glycol ester the fatty acids independently of one another being branched or unbranched alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or alkenyl residues,
  • the sorbitan ester where the fatty acids independently of one another represent branched or unbranched alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or alkenyl residues,
  • fatty alcohols R-OH and fatty acids RCOOH where R represents a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical
  • the silicone emulsifiers such as, for example, dimethicone copolyol, alkyl dimethicone copolyol (cetyl dimethicone copolyol), alkyl methicone copolyols (lauryl methicon copolyol), octyl dimethicone ethoxy glucosides of methyl glucose esters, the fatty acids independently of one another being branched or unbranched alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or alkenyl radicals.
  • the total emulsifier content is preferably 0.01 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • O / W emulsifier or the O / W emulsifiers is selected or are selected from the group
  • the fatty alcohol ethoxylates of the general formula RO - (- CH 2 -CH 2 -O-) n -H where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical having 5 to 30 carbon atoms and n is a number from 10 to 25 of ethoxy gated / propoxylated wool wax alcohols with HLB values of 11-16 - the polyethylene glycol ether of the general formula RO - (- CH 2 -CH 2 -O-) n -R ', where R and R "independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals with 5 - 30 carbon atoms and n represent a number from 10 to 25, the fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH 2 -CH 2 -O-) n -H, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or Alkenyl radical with 5 - 30 carbon atoms
  • n represent a number from 10 to 50, the polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched fatty acids with 6 to 26 carbon atoms and a degree of ethoxylation between 3 and 40 of the ethoxylated sorbitan esters with a degree of ethoxylation of 3 to 30 the cholesterol ethoxylates with HLB values of 11-16 the ethoxylated triglycerides with HLB values of 11-16 of the alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula
  • RO - (- CH 2 -CH 2 -O-) n -CH 2 -COOH or their cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable salts where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical having 5 to 30 carbon atoms and n is a number of 10 to 20 represent the polyoxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid ester, based on branched or unbranched alkanoic or alkenoic acids and having a degree of ethoxylation of 10 to 80, for example of the sorbeth type, the alkyl ether sulfates or the acids of the general formula RO - (- CH 2 -CH 2 -O-) n -SO 3 -H with cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable cations, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical having 5 to 30 carbon atoms and n is a number from 3 to 30, the fatty alcohol propoxylates of general formula
  • RO - (- CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) -O-) n -H where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical having 5 to 30 carbon atoms and n is a number from 10 to 30, the polypropylene glycol ether general formula
  • R and R 'independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals having 5 to 30 carbon atoms and n are a number from 10 to 40 , the fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula
  • R-COO - (- CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) -O-) n -H where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical having 5 to 30 carbon atoms and n is a number from 10 to 40 represent the etherified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) -O-) n -R ', where R and R' independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals with 5-30 ° C.
  • n represent a number from 10 to 30, the esterified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) -O-) n -C (O) -R ', where R and R * independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals having 5 to 30 carbon atoms and n is a number from 10 to 50, the polypropylene glycol glycerol fatty acid ester of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched fatty acids having 6 to 26 carbon atoms and one Degree of propoxylation between 3 and 50 of the propoxylated sorbitan esters with a degree of propoxylation of 3 to 80 of the cholesterol propoxylates with HLB values of 11-16, the propoxylated triglycerides with HLB values of 11-16 of the alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general form!
  • RO - (- CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) O-) n -CH 2 -COOH or their cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable salts where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical having 5 to 30 carbon atoms and n is a Represent the number from 10 to 30, the alkyl ether sulfates or the acids on which these sulfates are based, of the general formula RO - (- CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) -O-) n -SO 3 -H with cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable cations, where R represent a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical having 5 to 30 carbon atoms and n a number from 1 to 30, the polyglycerol methylglucose ester of the polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate type of glycerol fatty acid citrate of the glyceryl stearate citrate type of water-dispersible
  • the ethoxylated O / W emulsifiers used are particularly advantageously selected from the group of substances with HLB values of 11-16, provided the O / W emulsifiers have saturated radicals R and R '. If the O / W emulsifiers have unsaturated radicals R and / or R ', or if isoalkyl derivatives are present, the preferred HLB value of such emulsifiers can also be lower or higher. It is advantageous to choose the fatty alcohol ethoxylates from the group of the ethoxylated stearyl alcohols, cetyl alcohols, cetylstearyl alcohols (cetearyl alcohols). The following are particularly preferred:
  • ceteareth-16 Polyethylene glycol (17) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-20),
  • Sodium laureth-11 carboxylate can advantageously be used as the ethoxylated alkyl ether carboxylic acid or its salt.
  • Sodium laureth 1-4 sulfate can advantageously be used as alkyl ether sulfate.
  • Polyethylene glycol (30) cholesteryl ether can advantageously be used as the ethoxylated cholesterol derivative.
  • Polyethylene glycol (25) soyasterol has also proven itself.
  • polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl laurate polyethylene glycol (21) glyceryl laurate
  • polyethylene glycol (22) glyceryl laurate polyethylene glycol (23) glyceryl laurate
  • sorbitan esters from the group consisting of polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monolaurate, polyethylene! Englycol (20) sorbitan monostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monoisostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monopalmitate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monooleate.
  • Abil Care 85 can be selected as the silicone emulsifier.
  • W / O emulsifiers can be used: fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, monoglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxyalkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C- Atoms, diglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxyalkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, monoglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, diglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, diglycerol ethers of saturated
  • W / O emulsifiers are glyceryl monostearate, glyceryimonoiso stearate, glyceryl neoleate, triglycerol diisostearate, glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl mono oleate, diglyceryl monostearate, diglyceryl monoisostearate, propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol mono- glycololoisolate, propylene glycol mono glycolate. Sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan monostearate, sorbitan monolaurate,
  • Sorbitan monocaprylate sucrose distearate, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol,
  • the total emulsifier content less than 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations according to the invention. It is preferred to keep the total content of emulsifiers less than 10% by weight, in particular less than 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • the oil phase of the preparations according to the invention is advantageously selected from the group of the esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononylisononanoate, 2-ethylhexylhexyl palmitate Hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate and synthetic, semisynthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, for example jojoba oil.
  • the oil phase can advantageously be chosen from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and also the fatty acid triglycerides, especially the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils, e.g. Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.
  • Examples are advantageous dicaprylyl carbonate, butylene glycol caprylate / caprate, D.-C12-
  • C 12 are particularly advantageous. 15- alkylbenzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostate, mixtures of C ⁇ 2 _ ⁇ 5 -alkylbenzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of C 12th 15 alkylbenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate.
  • waxes can also be part of the oil phase, for example
  • Methyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, C 20-0 alkyl stearate, cis-3-6 acid triglyceride may also optionally, obtained as Mikrodispersi- ones solid wax particles.
  • the oil phase can also advantageously have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils. Cyclomethicone is advantageous
  • hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane polydimethylsiloxane
  • Poly (methylphenylsiloxane) polydimethylsiloxane
  • the preparations according to the invention advantageously contain electrolytes, in particular one or more salts with the following anions: chlorides, furthermore inorganic oxo element anions, of which in particular sulfates, carbonates, phosphates, borates and aluminates.
  • Electrolytes based on organic anions can also be used advantageously, for example lactates, acetates, benzoates, propionates, tartrates, citrates and others. Comparable effects can also be achieved with ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid and its salts.
  • Ammonium, alkylammonium, alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, magnesium, iron and zinc ions are preferably used as cations of the salts.
  • electrolytes there is no need to mention that only physiologically acceptable electrolytes should be used in cosmetics.
  • special medical applications of the microemulsions according to the invention can, at least in principle, require the use of electrolytes, which should not be used without medical supervision.
  • Sodium and potassium chloride, sodium and potassium bromide, magnesium and calcium chloride, magnesium and calcium bromide, zinc sulfate and mixtures thereof are particularly preferred. Salt mixtures as they occur in the natural salt from the Dead Sea are also advantageous. All of these salts are beneficial because they stimulate endogenous lipid synthesis.
  • the concentration of the electrolyte or electrolytes should, for example, be approximately 0.1-10.0% by weight, particularly advantageously approximately 0.3-8.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • the preparations according to the invention also make an excellent contribution to smoothing the skin, in particular if they are provided with one or more substances which promote smoothing of the skin.
  • all common active ingredients can be used advantageously, for example odor maskers such as the common perfume components, odor absorbers, for example the layered silicates described in patent application DE-P 40 09 347, of which montmorillonite in particular , Kaolinite, hit, beidellite, nontronite, saponite, hectorite, bentonite, smectite, and furthermore, for example, zinc salts of ricinoleic acid.
  • Germ-inhibiting agents are also suitable for being incorporated into the microemulsions according to the invention.
  • Advantageous substances are, for example, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (irgasane), 1,6-di- (4-chlorophenylbiguanido) hexane (chlorhexidine), 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, quaternary ammonium compounds , Clove oil, mint oil, thyme oil, triethyl citrate, famesol (3,7,11.trimethyl-2,6,10-dodecatrien-1-ol) as well as those in the patent publications DE-37 40 186, DE-39 38 140, DE- 42 04 321, DE-42 29 707, DE-42 29 737, DE-42 37 081, DE-43 09 372, DE-43 24 219 described active agents.
  • antiperspirant active ingredients can also be used advantageously in the preparations according to the invention, in particular astringents, for example basic aluminum chlorides.
  • the cosmetic deodorants according to the invention can be in the form of aerosols, that is to say from aerosol containers, squeeze bottles or preparations sprayable by a pump device, or in the form of liquid compositions that can be applied by means of roll-on devices, but also in the form of preparations according to the invention that can be applied from normal bottles and containers.
  • Suitable blowing agents for cosmetic deodorants according to the invention which can be sprayed from aerosol containers are the customary, known volatile, liquefied blowing agents, for example hydrocarbons (propane, butane, isobutane), which can be used alone or in a mixture with one another. Compressed air can also be used advantageously.
  • hydrocarbons propane, butane, isobutane
  • the O / W emulsions according to the invention are sprayed as aerosol droplets.
  • Cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the form of a sunscreen are also favorable.
  • these preferably additionally contain at least one UVA filter substance and / or at least one UVB filter substance and / or at least one inorganic pigment.
  • UV-A or UV-B filter substances are usually incorporated into day creams.
  • Preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of filter substances e.g. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular 1 to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • the UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
  • oil-soluble substances are: 3-benzylidene camphor and its derivatives, for example 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor,
  • 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
  • Esters of cinnamic acid preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentiester;
  • esters of salicylic acid preferably salicylic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester,
  • Esters of benzalmalonic acid preferably 4 ⁇ methoxybenzalmaionic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester;
  • Triazines such as 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine,
  • Dibenzoylmethane derivatives [for example the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane], the 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bomylidenemethyl) -benzene and / or its salts and / or the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine, either individually or in any Combinations with each other.
  • the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane the 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bomylidenemethyl) -benzene and / or its salts and / or the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl
  • Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
  • Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene-methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene-methyl) sulfonic acid and their salts.
  • a further light protection filter substance according to the invention to be used advantageously is ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate, obtainable (octocrylene) from BASF under the name Uvinul ® N 539th It can also be of considerable advantage to use polymer-bound or polymeric UV filter substances in preparations according to the present invention, in particular those as described in WO-A-92/20690.
  • UVB filters which can be used according to the invention, is of course not intended to be limiting.
  • the invention also relates to the combination of a UVA filter according to the invention with a UVB filter or a cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to the invention which also contains a UVB filter.
  • UVA filters in the preparations according to the invention, which are usually contained in cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations.
  • Such substances are preferably derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione and 1-phenyl-3- (4 '-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione. Preparations containing these combinations are also the subject of the invention.
  • the same amounts of UVA filter substances that were mentioned for UVB filter substances can be used.
  • Cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to the invention can also contain inorganic pigments which are usually used in cosmetics to protect the skin from UV rays. These are oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum, cerium and mixtures thereof, as well as modifications in which the oxides are the active agents. It is particularly preferred to use pigments based on titanium dioxide. The amounts given for the above combinations can be used.
  • preparations according to the invention are very good vehicles for cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients in the Skin are, whereby advantageous active ingredients are antioxidants that can protect the skin against oxidative stress.
  • the preparations advantageously contain one or more antioxidants. All of the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications are used as inexpensive, but nevertheless optional antioxidants. It is advantageous to use antioxidants as the only class of active ingredient, for example when cosmetic or dermatological application is in the foreground, such as combating the oxidative stress on the skin. However, it is also advantageous to provide the microemulsions according to the invention with a content of one or more antioxidants if the preparations are to serve another purpose, e.g. as deodorants or sunscreens.
  • the antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-camosine, D-carnosine, L- Carnosine and its derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. carotene, ß-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g.
  • amino acids eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan
  • imidazoles eg urocanic acid
  • peptides such as D, L-camosine, D-carnosine, L- Carnos
  • thioredoxin glutathione, Cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, ⁇ -linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, t iodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g.
  • buthioninsulfoximines homocysteine sulfoximine, buthioninsulfones, penta- in-, hexa- in- sulfa-) seh r low tolerable dosages (e.g. pmol to ⁇ mol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. ⁇ -hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), ⁇ -hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, Bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g.
  • metal chelators e.g. ⁇ -hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin
  • ⁇ -hydroxy acids e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid Bile
  • ⁇ -linolenic acid linoleic acid, oleic acid
  • folic acid and their derivatives ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives
  • vitamin C and derivatives e.g. ascorbyipalmitate, Mg - ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbylacetate
  • tocopherpole and derivatives e.g.
  • vitamin E - acetate vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A - palmitate) as well as konyferylbenzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, ferulic acid and its derivatives, butyihydroxy toluene Butylhydroxyanisole, Nordihydroguajakarzarzäure, Nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyropheno, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (e.g. ZnO, ZnS04) selenium and its derivatives (e.g. selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (e.g. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (Salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active ingredients.
  • konyferylbenzoate of benzoin rutinic acid and its derivatives
  • Water-soluble antioxidants can be used particularly advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.
  • compositions according to the invention are very good vehicles for cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients in the skin, preferred active ingredients being antioxidants which can protect the skin against oxidative stress.
  • preferred active ingredients being antioxidants which can protect the skin against oxidative stress.
  • Preferred antioxidants are vitamin E and its derivatives and vitamin A and its derivatives.
  • the amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight the preparation.
  • vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s)
  • vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant or antioxidants, it is advantageous to add their respective concentrations in the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation choose.
  • the active ingredients can also be selected very advantageously from the group of lipophilic active ingredients, in particular from the following group:
  • vitamins for example ascorbic acid and its derivatives
  • vitamins of B and D-series very cheap the vitamin Bi,
  • the active ingredient (s) are particularly advantageously selected from the group of NO synthase inhibitors, in particular if the preparations according to the invention are intended for the treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of intrinsic and / or extrinsic skin aging and for the treatment and prophylaxis of the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin ,
  • the preferred NO synthase inhibitor is nitroarginine.
  • the active ingredient (s) are also advantageously selected from the group comprising catechins and bile esters of catechins and aqueous or organic extracts from plants or parts of plants which contain catechins or bile esters of catechins, such as, for example, the leaves of Plant family Theaceae, especially the species Camellia sinensis (green tea).
  • catechins and bile esters of catechins and aqueous or organic extracts from plants or parts of plants which contain catechins or bile esters of catechins, such as, for example, the leaves of Plant family Theaceae, especially the species Camellia sinensis (green tea).
  • Their typical ingredients such as polyphenols or catechins, caffeine, vitamins, sugar, minerals, amino acids, lipids are particularly advantageous.
  • Catechins are a group of compounds which are to be regarded as hydrogenated flavones or anthocyanidins and derivatives of "catechins" (catechol, 3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol, 2- (3,4- DihydroxyphenyI) -chroman-3,5,7-triol)
  • Catatechin ((2R, 3R) -3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol) is also an advantageous active substance in the sense of the present invention.
  • Plant extracts containing catechins in particular extracts of green tea, such as. B. extracts from leaves of the plants of the species Camellia spec, especially the teas Camellia sinenis, C. assamica, C. talien- sis or C. irrawadiensis and crosses of these with, for example, Camellia japonica.
  • Preferred active substances are also polyphenols or catechins from the group (-) - catechin, (+) - catechin, (-) - catechinate, (-) - gallocatechin gallate, (+) - epicatechin, (-) - epicatechin, (-) -Epicatechin gallate, (-) - epigallocatechin, (-) - epigalIocatechin gallate.
  • Flavon and its derivatives are advantageous active substances in the sense of the present invention. They are characterized by the following basic structure (substitution positions specified):
  • flavones usually occur in glycosidated form.
  • the flavonoids are preferably selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula
  • Z T to Z 7 are selected independently of one another from the group H, OH, alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy, where the alkoxy or hydroxyalkoxy groups are branched and unbranched and can have 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and wherein Gly is selected from the group of mono- and oligoglycoside residues.
  • the flavonoids can also be advantageously selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula
  • Z- to Z 6 are independently selected from the group H, OH, alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy, where the alkoxy or hydroxyalkoxy groups are branched and can be unbranched and can have 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and where Gly is selected from the group of mono- and oligoglycoside residues.
  • Such structures can preferably be selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula
  • Gly ! , Gly 2 and Gly 3 independently of one another represent monoglycoside residues or. Gly 2 or Gly 3 can also represent, individually or together, saturations by hydrogen atoms.
  • Gly-i, Gly 2 and Gly 3 are preferably selected independently of one another from the group of the hexosyl radicals, in particular the rhamnosyl radicals and glucosyl radicals.
  • hexosyl radicals for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl, can also be used advantageously if appropriate. It can also be advantageous according to the invention to use pentosyl residues.
  • Z ⁇ to Z 5 are advantageously selected independently of one another from the group H, OH, methoxy, ethoxy and 2-hydroxyethoxy, and the flavone glycosides have the structure
  • Gly !, Gly 2 and Gly 3 independently of one another represent monoglycoside residues or. Gly 2 or Gly 3 can also represent, individually or together, saturations by hydrogen atoms.
  • Gly-i, Gly 2 and Gly 3 are preferably selected independently of one another from the group of the hexosyl radicals, in particular the rhamnosyl radicals and glucosyl radicals.
  • hexosyl radicals for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl, can also be used advantageously if appropriate. It can also be advantageous according to the invention to use pentosyl residues.
  • flavone glycosides from the group ⁇ -glucosyl rutin, ⁇ -glucosyl myrcetin, ⁇ -glucosyl iso-quercitrin, ⁇ -glucosyl iso-quercetin and ⁇ -glucosyl-quercitrin.
  • ⁇ -glucosylrutin is particularly preferred.
  • naringin aurantiin, naringenin-7-rhamnoglucosid
  • hesperidin 3 ', 5,7-trihydroxy-4'-methoxyflavanon-7-rutinoside
  • hesperidoside hesperetin-7-O-rutinoside
  • Rutin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflyvon-3-rutinoside, quercetin-3-rutinoside, sophorin, birutan, rutabion, taurutin, phytomelin, melin), troxerutin (3,5-dihydroxy -3 ', 4', 7-tris (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy- ⁇ -L-mannopyranosyl) -ß-D-glucopyranoside)), monoxerutin (3.3 ', 4', 5-tetrahydroxy-7- (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavon-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy- ⁇ -L-mannopyranosyl) -ß-D-glucopyranoside)), dihydrorobinetin (3, 3 ', 4', 5 ', 7- Pentahydroxyflavanon), Taxifolin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-Pentahydroxyflavanon
  • the active ingredient (s) from the group of ubiquinones and plastoquinones.
  • Coenzyme Q10 which is characterized by the following structural formula, is particularly advantageous:
  • Creatine and / or creatine derivatives, phsophocreatine are also preferred active substances in the sense of the present invention. Creatine is characterized by the following structure:
  • Preferred derivatives are creatine phosphate and creatine sulfate, creatine acetate, creatine ascorbate and the derivatives esterified on the carboxyl group with mono- or polyfunctional alcohols.
  • acyl-carnitine which is selected from the group of substances of the following general structural formula
  • active ingredients are sericoside, pyridoxol, aminoguadin, phytochelatin, isoflavones (genistein, daidzein, daidzin, glycitin), niacin, tyrosine sulfate, dioic acid, adenosine, pyridoxine, arginine, vitamin K, biotin and flavorings.
  • the list of the active substances or combinations of active substances mentioned which can be used in the preparations according to the invention is of course not intended to be limiting.
  • the active ingredients can be used individually or in any combination with one another.
  • Active substances can be contained in the preparations in the amounts of 0.0001-25% by weight, preferably 0.001-20% by weight, in particular 0.01-10% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • hydrophilic active substances are of course also favored according to the invention
  • a further advantage of the preparations according to the invention is that the high number of finely divided droplets makes especially oil-soluble or lipophilic active substances biologically available with particularly great effectiveness.
  • Aqueous cosmetic cleaning agents according to the invention or water-free or anhydrous cleaning agent concentrates intended for aqueous cleaning can contain cationic, anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, for example conventional soaps, for example sodium fatty acid salts, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkane and alkylbenzenesulfonates, sulfoacineates, sulfoacetates, Sarcosinates, amidosulfobetanes, sulfosuccinates, sulfosuccinic acid semiesters, alkyl ether carboxylates, protein fatty acid condensates, alkyl betas and amidobetaones, fatty acid alkanolamides, polyglycol ether derivatives.
  • conventional soaps for example sodium fatty acid salts, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkane and alky
  • Cosmetic preparations which are cosmetic cleaning preparations for the skin, can be in liquid or semi-solid form, for example as gels. They preferably contain at least one anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric surface-active substance or mixtures thereof, optionally electrolytes and auxiliaries, as are usually used therefor.
  • the surface-active substance can preferably be present in the cleaning preparations in a concentration of between 1 and 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • Cosmetic preparations which are a shampooing agent preferably contain at least one anionic, nonionic or amphoteric surface-active substance or mixtures thereof, optionally electrolytes and auxiliaries, as are usually used therefor.
  • the surface-active substance can preferably be present in the cleaning preparations in a concentration of between 1 and 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations. Cetyltrimethylammonium salts, for example, are advantageous to use.
  • the preparations according to the invention for cleaning the hair or skin contain water and, if appropriate, the additives customary in cosmetics, for example perfume, thickeners, dyes, deodorants, antimicrobial substances, lipid-replenishing agents, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, plant extracts , Vitamins, active ingredients and the like.
  • the additives customary in cosmetics for example perfume, thickeners, dyes, deodorants, antimicrobial substances, lipid-replenishing agents, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, plant extracts , Vitamins, active ingredients and the like.
  • the preparations according to the invention surprisingly have very good foaming, high cleansing power and have a highly regenerative effect on the general skin condition.
  • the preparations according to the invention have a skin-smoothing effect, reduce the feeling of dryness of the skin and make the skin supple.
  • preparations according to the invention are to be used for hair care, they can contain the usual constituents, usually for example film-forming polymers.
  • film formers polymers with at least partially quaternized nitrogen groups
  • Polyquaternium-2 (Chemical Abstracts No. 63451-27-4, e.g. Mirapol® A-15)
  • Polyquaternium-5 (copolymer of the acrylamide and the ß-methacryloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, CAS No. 26006-22-4)
  • Polyquaternium-6 (homopolymer of N, N-dimethyl-N-2-propenyl-2-propen-1-aminium chloride, CAS No. 26062-79-3, e.g. Merquat® 100
  • Polyquaternium-17 CAS-No. 90624-75-2 e.g. Mirapol® AD-1 polyquaternium-19 quaternized water-soluble polyvinyl alcohol polyquaternium-20 water-dispersible quaternized polyvinyl octadecyl ether polyquaternium-21 polysiloxane-polydimethyl-dimethylammonium acetate copolymer, e.g. Abil® B 9905
  • Polyquaternium-24 Polymeric quaternary ammonium salt of hydroxyethyl cellulose, reaction product with an epoxy substituted with lauryldimethylammonium, CAS no. 107987-23-5, e.g. Quatrisoft® LM-200
  • Polyquaternium-28 vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer e.g. Gafquat® HS-100
  • Polyquatemium-29 e.g. Lexquat® CH Polyquatemium-31 CAS-No. 136505-02-7, e.g. Hypan® QT 100 Polyquaternium-32 N, N, N-trimethyl-2 - [(2-methyl-1-oxo-2-propenyl) oxy] -ethanaminium chloride, polymer with 2-propenamide , CAS no. 35429-19-7 Polyquaternium-37 CAS-No. 26161-33-1 cetyl trimethyl ammonium salts such as CTAB, CTAC.
  • Preparations according to the invention for hair care advantageously contain 0.01-5% by weight of one or more film formers, preferably 0.1-3% by weight, in particular 0.2-2% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • Such embodiments of the preparations according to the invention care for hair damaged or damaged by environmental influences or prevent such environmental influences.
  • the preparations according to the invention give the hairstyle loose fullness and firmness without being tacky.
  • the preparations according to the invention can be used, for example, as a skin protection emulsion, cleansing milk, sunscreen lotion, nutrient lotion, day or night emulsion, etc.
  • the preparations according to the invention also make an excellent contribution to smoothing the skin, in particular if they are provided with one or more substances which promote smoothing of the skin.
  • preparations according to the invention may be possible and advantageous to use the preparations according to the invention as the basis for pharmaceutical formulations. Mutatis mutandis, corresponding requirements apply to the formulation of medical preparations.
  • the transitions between pure cosmetics and pure pharmaceuticals are fluid.
  • all classes of active substances are in principle geeginet as pharmaceutical active substances, lipophilic active substances being preferred. Examples are: antihistamines, anti-inflammatory drugs, antibiotics, antifungals, active substances that promote blood circulation, keratolytics, hormones, steroids, vitamins, etc.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic auxiliaries as are usually used in such preparations, for example preservatives, bactericides, virucides, perfumes, substances for preventing foaming, dyes, pigments which have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers , softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, anti-inflammatory substances, medicines, fats, oils, waxes or other common components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents.
  • cosmetic auxiliaries as are usually used in such preparations, for example preservatives, bactericides, virucides, perfumes, substances for preventing foaming, dyes, pigments which have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers , softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, anti-inflammatory substances, medicines, fats, oils, waxes or
  • Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat bodies preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low C number, e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerin, or esters of fatty alcohols with low C number alkanoic acids or with fatty acids, alcohols, diols or low C number polyols, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerin, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or - monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and similar products.
  • esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low C number e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerin, or esters of fatty alcohols with low C number alkanoic acids or with fatty acids, alcohols, dio
  • Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 1 000 Cetearyl Isononanoate 3,000 C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 3,000 PEG-150 Distearate 2,000 Dimethicone 3,000 Glycerin 3,000 Water Ad 100,000
  • Glyceryl Stearate 1,500 Ceteareth-20 2,000 Myristyl Myristate 4,000 Isostearyl Isostearate 5,000 C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 5,000 Squalane 1,000 Behenyl Alcohol 2,500 Dimethicone 2,000 PEG-150 Distearate 1,000 Butylene Glycol 5,000 Water Ad 100,000
  • Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 1 000 Cetearyl Isononanoate 3,000 C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 3,000 PEG-150 Distearate 2,000 Dimethicone 3,000 Glycerin 3,000 Water Ad 100,000

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Abstract

L'invention concerne un procédé de production d'émulsions de type huile dans eau contenant une phase aqueuse et une phase huileuse essentiellement constituée de composants peu volatils et comprenant au moins un émulsifiant huile dans eau et éventuellement au moins un émulsifiant E/H et au moins un agent de réticulation ainsi qu'éventuellement des agents auxiliaires, des additifs et/ou des substances actives. Ces émulsions peuvent être produites au moyen d'un procédé consistant à : d) ajouter la phase aqueuse et ses composants à la phase huileuse et ses composants, l'émulsifiant H/E et éventuellement l'émulsifiant E/H, un ou plusieurs agents de réticulation étant ajouté(s) à la phase aqueuse ou à la phase huileuse ou aux deux phases, ce qui entraîne une augmentation de viscosité et permet d'obtenir des émulsions H/E réticulées ; e) porter le mélange à une température comprise ou non dans la plage de températures d'inversion de phases, puis de le refroidir pour qu'il atteigne la température ambiante, ce qui entraîne une augmentation de viscosité et permet d'obtenir des émulsions H/E réticulées ; f) ou l'agent de réticulation est ajouté ultérieurement à une émulsion H/E présentant une faible viscosité, ce qui permet d'obtenir une émulsion H/E réticulée.
EP03745274A 2002-03-28 2003-03-27 Emulsions cosmetiques ou pharmaceutiques a base de gouttelettes d'huile reticulees Ceased EP1492491A2 (fr)

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DE10213956A DE10213956A1 (de) 2002-03-28 2002-03-28 Kosmetische oder pharmazeutische Emulsionen auf der Basis von vernetzten Öltröpfchen
DE10213956 2002-03-28
PCT/EP2003/003167 WO2003082223A2 (fr) 2002-03-28 2003-03-27 Emulsions cosmetiques ou pharmaceutiques a base de gouttelettes d'huile reticulees

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DE10344888A1 (de) * 2003-09-26 2005-04-14 Beiersdorf Ag Kosmetische oder pharmazeutische Emulsionen auf der Basis von vernetzten Öltröpfchen
DE102005028985A1 (de) * 2005-06-21 2006-12-28 Henkel Kgaa Mikroemulsionen und ihr Gebrauch
EP1904022A1 (fr) * 2005-06-21 2008-04-02 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Emulsions h/e contenant des polysaccharides et des polyols modifies de façon hydrophobe
DE202010011395U1 (de) 2010-08-13 2010-11-11 Beiersdorf Ag Stabilisierte W/O-Emulsionen
DE102010034389B4 (de) 2010-08-13 2018-03-22 Beiersdorf Ag Stabilisierte W/O-Emulsionen

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DE4411557A1 (de) * 1994-04-02 1995-10-05 Henkel Kgaa Verfahren zur Herstellung von Mikroemulsionen
DE19509079A1 (de) * 1995-03-15 1996-09-19 Beiersdorf Ag Kosmetische oder dermatologische Mikroemulsionen
DE19641672A1 (de) * 1996-10-10 1998-04-16 Beiersdorf Ag Kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen auf der Basis von ethylenoxidfreien und propylenoxidfreien Emulgatoren zur Herstellung von Mikroemulsionsgelen
DE19726131A1 (de) * 1997-06-20 1998-12-24 Beiersdorf Ag Mittels kovalent verknüpfter Netzwerke, disperse Zwei- oder Mehrphasensysteme
AU3903800A (en) * 1999-03-19 2000-10-09 Parker Hughes Institute Gel-microemulsion formulations
EP1169016A1 (fr) * 1999-04-14 2002-01-09 The Procter & Gamble Company Composition transparente

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