EP1522616A1 - Procédé pour la production d'un vêtement tricoté - Google Patents

Procédé pour la production d'un vêtement tricoté Download PDF

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Publication number
EP1522616A1
EP1522616A1 EP03022392A EP03022392A EP1522616A1 EP 1522616 A1 EP1522616 A1 EP 1522616A1 EP 03022392 A EP03022392 A EP 03022392A EP 03022392 A EP03022392 A EP 03022392A EP 1522616 A1 EP1522616 A1 EP 1522616A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
stitches
needle bed
knitting
needles
knitted
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
EP03022392A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP1522616B1 (fr
Inventor
Henning Schmidt
Thomas Nonnenmacher
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
H Stoll GmbH and Co KG
Original Assignee
H Stoll GmbH and Co KG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by H Stoll GmbH and Co KG filed Critical H Stoll GmbH and Co KG
Priority to EP20030022392 priority Critical patent/EP1522616B1/fr
Priority to CNB2004100835765A priority patent/CN100482872C/zh
Publication of EP1522616A1 publication Critical patent/EP1522616A1/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP1522616B1 publication Critical patent/EP1522616B1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a method for producing a knitted fabric Garment as tube-round-knit with a special Design of the shoulder area known as "French Shoulder is known.
  • This type of shoulder is characterized by that the connection between the front and back part of the Garment not in the middle of the shoulder but in the upper area the back part runs.
  • a Method has been proposed in which the front and back in a known manner together as a tubular fabric until the beginning of Knitted shoulder area. In the shoulder area is then only first for one of the two parts, for example, for the front part of the Shoulder part formed in such a way that it is over the middle of the shoulder of the garment extends.
  • the present invention is based on the object, a method to suggest for the formation of shoulders for tubular-round knits, with the a connection of the front with the back the hull part outside the middle of the shoulder can be produced and in the above-mentioned disadvantages are avoided.
  • the reduction of the number of stitches in the courses in the Shoulder area of the part on the second needle bed can be linear, stepped or in any other way over the height of the shoulder area respectively. This allows straight, stepped or curved Connecting lines between the two knitted parts in Achieve shoulder area.
  • the same Number of courses can be formed. This can be done at the Prior art described problem of reduced effectiveness of the knitted fabric when forming courses for only one of Largely avoid knitted parts.
  • necklines such as Rundhals- or V-cutouts formed in the central region of the knitted parts become. Then you can also attach any of the necklines Knitting collars, such as collars or roll collars.
  • the invention also relates to a knitted piece, which after a process according to the invention is produced.
  • Fig. 1a, 1b show a sweater 1 from the front and back.
  • the front part 2 of the body part, the front sides 3, 4 of the sleeves and the front collar side 5 can be seen.
  • Fig. 1b the back 2 'of the body part and the backs 3', 4 'of the sleeve and the back 5' of the collar is shown.
  • the front sides 2, 3, 4, 5 are knitted on the front needle bed of a flat knitting machine and the back sides 2 ', 3', 4 'and 5' on the back needle bed of a flat knitting machine.
  • Fig. 2 now illustrates the preparation of the shoulder portions C, C 'of the pullover 1 of Fig. 1a, 1b.
  • the front sections 2, 3, 4 of the torso and the sleeves, and the associated back parts 2 ', 3', 4 ' which are actually actually present as a common tubular circular knit, are split in a flat position on both sides of a middle one Longitudinal axis M of the flat knitting machine otherwise not shown.
  • contour lines 2 ", 2"'on the back 2' of the body part arise. These contour lines 2 ", 2"'in turn determine the position and the course of the connecting lines 6, 7 shown in FIG. 1b between the front side 2 and the back side 2' of the body part of the pullover 1.
  • a so-called “French shoulder” in which the connection between the front and back part 2, 2 'does not run on the shoulder center but in the upper region of the back part 2'.
  • an equal number of courses are formed in the sections C, C 'for the front part 2 and the back part 2'.
  • connection of the parts 2, 2 'in the shoulder area is done by hanging the stitches of the front part 2 on the opposite needles, which are occupied with stitches of the back parts 2'. This is indicated in Fig. 2 by the arrows T 3 , T 4 .
  • Fig. 3 shows in the view from above the left shoulder region of the pullover 1 of Fig. 1.
  • the dotted line Y indicates the shoulder center of the pullover. It can be seen clearly that the connecting line 7 between the front part 2 and the back part 2 'does not run on the shoulder center Y, but extends obliquely from the collar 5, 5' to the sleeve 4, 4 'in the back part 2'.
  • the connecting line 7 ends at the integration line 4 "of the sleeve back 4 'in the back part 2'.
  • FIGS. 4a-4c indicate alternative embodiments of the connection line 7 from FIG. 3 in a representation otherwise comparable to the representation of FIG.
  • the connecting line 7 ' shown in Fig. 4a is stepped. It arises from a discontinuous decrease in the number of knitting needles in the back part 2 '.
  • the front part 2 is formed in the shoulder portion C in an identical manner, as shown in Fig. 2.
  • FIG. 4b shows a curved course 7 "of the connecting line between front and back part 2, 2.
  • FIG. 4c illustrates that the connecting line 7"' between the front and back part 2, 2' is also in the region of the front part 2 can run.
  • the section C of the front part 2 must now receive the desired contour by means of the spinner technique, while in the back part 2 ', stitches are formed over the entire width of the knitted fabric 2' in the shoulder region C '.
  • 5.1-5.11 illustrate in the form of a stitch course representation the production of the shoulder portions C, C 'of the pullover 1 of Fig. 1.
  • the knitting rows R1 - R32 relate to the knitting sequence for forming the stitch rows for the front and back 2, 2'. of the body part and connecting the left and right sleeves with the front side 2 of the body part.
  • the knitting lines R33 - R40 the knitting sequence for the connection of the front and back 2, 2 'of the body part and the formation of contour stitches are shown.
  • the front needle bed is marked V and the rear needle bed H.
  • the Nadeleinannon on both needle beds V, H is such that only every other needle is covered with stitches.
  • Each stitch-bearing needle also faces an empty needle.
  • a knitting machine with three knitting systems Each knitting system uses the needles in each can bring any position.
  • the procedure is however also with Knitting machines with fewer knitting systems feasible. To have to then, however, more carriage movements are performed.
  • the thread guides of the Knitting systems moved. It is therefore in some places Thread guide correction movements necessary, which can be omitted if a knitting machine with a separate movement device is used for the thread guide.
  • the knitting course R0 shows the last knitting course of the section B of the pullover 1 of Fig. 1.
  • the needles A - D have stitches for the front part 3 of the sleeve, the needles E - O stitches for the front part 2 of the body part and the needles P - S stitches for the front 4 of the second sleeve formed.
  • the row R1 is the starting knitting series of the sections C, C '.
  • the back 2 ' is formed in the technique of wire-spinning. This means that all needles Weave stitches but not all stitches at the stitch formation take part. So in row R1 with the needles e - g no Mesh formed more. As can be seen in particular from FIG. 3, FIG the number of knitting needles with increasing knit height always less.
  • This yarn guide 5 is in the knitting row R3 in the direction of carriage movement from left to right as well as the yarn guide 4 moved to their knit field with the second and third knitting system.
  • the yarn guide 5 is moved so far that he Thread guide 4 does not interfere with the thread insert from the needle G.
  • row R4 are then with the yarn guide 4, the remaining stitches formed on the needles E - G of the front needle bed V.
  • row R5 is again a correction movement for the yarn guide. 5 performed with the second knitting system to the left of the needle h, so that in the next row of knitting he can safely thread this thread Can insert a needle.
  • the rear needle bed will return to its normal position brought and the knitting systems moved to the left fabric side before in row R9 in knitting direction from left to right with the first Knitting system and the yarn guide 5 with the needles h - I stitches for the back part 2 'are formed.
  • the needles h - I are removed from the edge of the back part 2 '.
  • row R10 are connected to the second knitting system and the Thread guide 4 also in the direction of knitting from left to right with the Needles E - K of the front needle bed V Stitches for the front part 2 im Shoulder area C formed. There are now two stitches on needle O, the outermost loop of the front part 2 and the hinged Sleeve stitch from the edge needle P of the left sleeve.
  • the rear needle bed has an offset of two Needle divisions are made to the right, and there are the stitches from the needles a'-d 'to the needles B-E of the front needle bed V reassigned.
  • row R 18 are used with the second knitting system and the thread guide 4 in the knitting direction from right to left on the needles I - 0 on
  • the needles of the front needle bed V stitches for the front of the Body part 2 formed.
  • On the needle E rest two stitches, the outermost mesh of the front of the body part and the hinged Mesh of the right sleeve.
  • row R19 move in the direction of carriage movement from the left right with the second and third knitting system, the yarn guide 4, 5 in their knitted fields moved.
  • row R21 is moved in the carriage direction from right to left with the second knitting system the yarn guide 5 is moved to the left of the needle i, so that in the next course of knitting, he will thread the thread safely into this needle can insert.
  • row R22 are then in the same direction of carriage movement with the third knitting system not yet hinged on the body part front sleeve mesh of the needle P, Q, R on the needles p ', q', r 'of the rear needle bed H umgeenfin.
  • the rear needle bed H is a needle pitch reset to the right and the stitch s of the back needle bed H on the needle R of the front needle bed V umgeenfin.
  • the mesh of Needle s is a sleeve stitch from the sleeve back. This results a uniform process of wrapping, putting all the stitches of the Sleeves are connected to the front 2 of the body part.
  • row R27 the thread guides are moved again so that In particular, the thread guide 5 now on forming further stitches the front needle bed V is not obstructed, so in row R28 also with the needles K - 0 of the front needle bed V stitches for the Front 2 of the fuselage part can be formed.
  • row R32 are now the rear needle bed back in his Basic position and the knitting systems to the right Fabric side has been moved.
  • connection of the front 2 and the back 2 'of the body part in the shoulder area is done by hanging the stitches of the Front side 2 of the body part, which is on the front needle bed V located on the opposite, mesh-bearing needles of the rear needle bed H, which formed the back 2 'of the body part to have.
  • the transfer of the stitches starts at the side Knitted edges with at least one needle. In the example shown two stitches are transferred simultaneously, as in row R33 is shown. For this, the rear needle bed is previously a needle pitch offset to the right.
  • row R35 is in the knitting direction from right to left with the second knitting system and the yarn guide 3 another series of Contour stitching with the needles b - e formed.
  • an offset of the rear needle bed H in row R39 performed four needle pitches to the left.
  • Offset path of the needle bed results from the number of needles, from which meshes are transmitted, multiplied by the needle spacing.
  • the back needle bed will be eight in total Needle pitches offset to the right and the stitches of the needles N '- Q' of the front needle bed V on the opposite needles m - p the rear needle bed H umgeenfin.
  • the knitting cycle R33 - R40 is repeated until the front and back Back of the torso at the left and right shoulder area connected to each other.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Machines (AREA)
EP20030022392 2003-10-06 2003-10-06 Procédé pour la production d'un vêtement tricoté Expired - Lifetime EP1522616B1 (fr)

Priority Applications (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP20030022392 EP1522616B1 (fr) 2003-10-06 2003-10-06 Procédé pour la production d'un vêtement tricoté
CNB2004100835765A CN100482872C (zh) 2003-10-06 2004-10-08 针织服装的生产方法以及生产的针织服装

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP20030022392 EP1522616B1 (fr) 2003-10-06 2003-10-06 Procédé pour la production d'un vêtement tricoté

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP1522616A1 true EP1522616A1 (fr) 2005-04-13
EP1522616B1 EP1522616B1 (fr) 2013-03-06

Family

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Family Applications (1)

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EP20030022392 Expired - Lifetime EP1522616B1 (fr) 2003-10-06 2003-10-06 Procédé pour la production d'un vêtement tricoté

Country Status (2)

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EP (1) EP1522616B1 (fr)
CN (1) CN100482872C (fr)

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1842947A1 (fr) * 2006-04-04 2007-10-10 H. Stoll GmbH & Co. KG Procédé de tricotage d'un vêtement
EP2453046A4 (fr) * 2009-07-09 2014-06-04 Shima Seiki Mfg Tricot comportant des manches et un corps, et procédé de tricotage associé
CN112609308A (zh) * 2020-12-15 2021-04-06 斓帛职业培训学校(桐乡)有限公司 一种改善全成型插肩服装sp领型结构的编织方法

Families Citing this family (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE102010012151B4 (de) * 2010-03-20 2013-08-01 H. Stoll Gmbh & Co. Kg Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Schlauch-Rund-Fertiggestricks
DE102011012767A1 (de) * 2010-09-18 2012-03-22 H. Stoll Gmbh & Co. Kg Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Schlauchgestricks
CN103628238B (zh) * 2013-12-04 2015-03-25 宁波慈星股份有限公司 一种鞋面花型的编织方法
CN112176517B (zh) * 2020-09-30 2021-11-30 嘉兴市蒂维时装有限公司 一种提高横机全成型服装编织效率的编织方法

Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US5456096A (en) 1990-07-17 1995-10-10 Shima Seiki Mfg. Ltd. Method for processing end portion of fabric
DE19704666A1 (de) 1996-02-09 1997-08-14 Shima Seiki Mfg Strickverfahren für Flachbettstrickmaschinen und nach diesem Verfahren hergestellte Maschenware
EP1211341A1 (fr) 1999-07-13 2002-06-05 Shima Seiki Mfg., Ltd Procede de couture d'ourlets avec une excellente aptitude a l'etirage

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US5456096A (en) 1990-07-17 1995-10-10 Shima Seiki Mfg. Ltd. Method for processing end portion of fabric
DE19704666A1 (de) 1996-02-09 1997-08-14 Shima Seiki Mfg Strickverfahren für Flachbettstrickmaschinen und nach diesem Verfahren hergestellte Maschenware
EP1211341A1 (fr) 1999-07-13 2002-06-05 Shima Seiki Mfg., Ltd Procede de couture d'ourlets avec une excellente aptitude a l'etirage

Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1842947A1 (fr) * 2006-04-04 2007-10-10 H. Stoll GmbH & Co. KG Procédé de tricotage d'un vêtement
EP2453046A4 (fr) * 2009-07-09 2014-06-04 Shima Seiki Mfg Tricot comportant des manches et un corps, et procédé de tricotage associé
CN112609308A (zh) * 2020-12-15 2021-04-06 斓帛职业培训学校(桐乡)有限公司 一种改善全成型插肩服装sp领型结构的编织方法
CN112609308B (zh) * 2020-12-15 2022-06-14 嘉兴市蒂维时装有限公司 一种改善全成型插肩服装sp领型结构的编织方法

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
CN100482872C (zh) 2009-04-29
CN1605670A (zh) 2005-04-13
EP1522616B1 (fr) 2013-03-06

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