EP1863439A2 - Preparation tensioactive a endommagement enzymatique reduit - Google Patents

Preparation tensioactive a endommagement enzymatique reduit

Info

Publication number
EP1863439A2
EP1863439A2 EP05717149A EP05717149A EP1863439A2 EP 1863439 A2 EP1863439 A2 EP 1863439A2 EP 05717149 A EP05717149 A EP 05717149A EP 05717149 A EP05717149 A EP 05717149A EP 1863439 A2 EP1863439 A2 EP 1863439A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
skin
acyl
preparation
value
enzymes
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
EP05717149A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Andreas Schepky
Albrecht Doerschner
Ursula Holtzmann
Katrin Counradi
Stephan Ruppert
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Beiersdorf AG
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf AG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Beiersdorf AG filed Critical Beiersdorf AG
Publication of EP1863439A2 publication Critical patent/EP1863439A2/fr
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/442—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof substituted by amido group(s)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C11—ANIMAL OR VEGETABLE OILS, FATS, FATTY SUBSTANCES OR WAXES; FATTY ACIDS THEREFROM; DETERGENTS; CANDLES
    • C11D—DETERGENT COMPOSITIONS; USE OF SINGLE SUBSTANCES AS DETERGENTS; SOAP OR SOAP-MAKING; RESIN SOAPS; RECOVERY OF GLYCEROL
    • C11D1/00—Detergent compositions based essentially on surface-active compounds; Use of these compounds as a detergent
    • C11D1/88—Ampholytes; Electroneutral compounds

Definitions

  • enzymes which are present on or near the surface of the skin.
  • Such enzymes can be: hydrolases such as proteases, esterases, lipases, phosphatases, sulfatases and transglutaminases, but in particular proteases such as the stratum corneum tryptic enzyme (SCTE).
  • SCTE stratum corneum tryptic enzyme
  • Ammonia lyases play an important role in filaggrin degradation (Kuroda et al., 1979), as do transglutaminases (Polakowska et al., 1991), which are essential for the formation of the 'Cornified Envelope'.
  • Phosphatases are the hydrolases with the highest total activity in the stratum corneum (SC). Influence of enzymes on desquamation (see Schepky et al., 2004, Influence of cleansing on stratum corneum tryptic enzyme (SCTE) in human volonteers, Int. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 26, 245 -253)
  • SCCE stratum corneum chymotryptic enzyme
  • SCTE stratum corneum tryptic enzyme
  • SCCE has several properties that correlate well with its role in desquamation in vivo: the pH profile of its catalytic unit, its specific inhibitor profile and its location in tissue.
  • SCTE has a similar role in desquamation as SCCE, but may also be able to activate inactive SCCE by hydrolysis. This enzyme is thought to split autocatalytically from the inactive to the active form. For both enzymes it was shown that a topical application of specific inhibitors of these serine proteases (aprotinin and leupeptin) leads to more dander in vivo.
  • Skin wash products contain ionic surfactants, e.g. Sodium dodecyl sulfate (Sodium dodecyl sulfate, SDS) or sodium lauryl ether sulfate (Sodium lauryl ether sulfate, SLES).
  • ionic surfactants e.g. Sodium dodecyl sulfate (Sodium dodecyl sulfate, SDS) or sodium lauryl ether sulfate (Sodium lauryl ether sulfate, SLES).
  • anionic surfactants are well known for their strong binding to globular proteins on and into the skin through electrostatic interaction of their charged group with the oppositely charged amino acid group of the proteins.
  • the hydrophobic alkyl chain of the molecules of the surfactant also acts on the non-polar zone of the globular proteins. As a consequence of this cooperative binding, surfactants induce conformational changes in the protein molecules that normally lead to the loss of biological, i.e. cause
  • Prottey et al., 1984 quantified the effect of surfactants on the acidic phosphatase of the stratum corneum (obtained by tape stripping) by measuring the phosphatase activity. A reduction in the enzyme activity by denaturing the enzyme was found. Based on additional data, most surfactant enzymes are expected to be sensitive to surfactants.
  • enzyme protection in the sense of the present document is understood to mean a reduced damage / impairment of the skin enzymes described.
  • the well-known products contain examples of mixtures of lauryl ether sulfate and alkylamidopropyl betaine. The use of such products results in partial denaturation of the skin's own enzymes and thus damage to the skin, since these enzymes play an important role physiologically.
  • Enzyme protection can be quantified as follows: First, an ex vivo determination of the effect of surfactants on trypsin activity in the human epidermis is carried out. Subjects wash under supervision several times in 3 days with different products or water in different areas. The upper stratum corneum is extracted 24 hours later. The stratum corneum tryptic enzyme (SCTE) activity is measured in the extract. In parallel, the protein concentration of the extracts is determined in order to maintain the specific trypsin activity (correction of different extraction of the areas).
  • SCTE stratum corneum tryptic enzyme
  • EP 1 114639 A2 and EP 1 114640 A2 disclose the use of certain cosurfactants in surfactant cleaning preparations to reduce the binding of certain surfactants to the skin surface.
  • US 6468515 B1 discloses hair care preparations. However, nothing is disclosed as to how protection of the skin's enzymes from the adverse effects of surfactant-containing cleaning products can be achieved
  • acyl- / dialkylethylenediamines particularly preferably cocoamphoacetates
  • the cleaning preparation has a normalization to tap water after its use on the skin has a human SCTE of 65 to 95 and the acyl / dialkylethylenediamine (s) lower the CMC of the respective anionic surfactant and a buffer system made of citric acid and citrate is included and the pH of the preparation is set to 4 to 7, which alleviates the disadvantages of the state of the art.
  • the acyl / dialkylethylenediamines are characterized in that they lower the CMC of the respective anionic surfactant. This enables the enzymes to better fulfill their essential functions in the skin. This effect can be increased by setting the product to a skin-neutral value with citric acid buffer.
  • anionic surfactant or surfactants are selected from the group of alkyl ether sulfates. It is preferred if the concentration of anionic surfactants is 5 to 15% by weight. It is preferred if the concentration of acyl / dialkylethylenediamines is 0.5 to 8% by weight.
  • the invention also includes a cosmetic cleansing preparation containing 1 to 9% by weight of acyl / dialkyl ethylenediamines, particularly preferably cocoamphoacetate, water and anionic surfactants, characterized by a SCTE value of 65 to 65 measured on tap water after their use on the skin of humans 95 whereby the acyl- / dialkylethylenediamine (s) lower the CMC of the respective anionic surfactant and a buffer system consisting of citric acid and citrate ions is contained and the pH of the preparation is adjusted to the value 4 to 7. It is preferred if 0.8 to 1.2% by weight of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil is present. It is preferred if 0.3 to 0.5% by weight of PEG-200 hydrogenated glyceryl palmitate is contained. It is preferred if the ratio of anionic surfactant to acyl / dialkylethylenediamines is 4/8 to 7.
  • Preparations according to the invention may further contain surfactants.
  • Particularly preferred surfactants are decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside and laurylci sufosuccinate.
  • Cleaning preparations according to the invention are advantageously in the form of gels and contain one or more gel formers or hydrocolloids.
  • Particularly advantageous hydrocolloids are carbomers, xanthan gum, acrylate copolymer, hydroxypropyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose.
  • the total amount of one or more hydrocolloids in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously less than 1.5% by weight, preferably between 0.1 and 1.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • the complexing agents are advantageously selected from the group consisting of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its anions, nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA) and its anions, hydroxyethylenediaminotriesacetic acid (HOEDTA) and its anions, diethyleneaminopentaacetic acid (DPTA) and their anions, trans-1, 2-diaminocyclohexanetetraacetic acid (CDTA) and its anions, tetrasodium iminodisuccinate, tris odium ethylenediamine disuccinate.
  • EDTA ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid
  • NTA nitrilotriacetic acid
  • HOEDTA hydroxyethylenediaminotriesacetic acid
  • DPTA diethyleneaminopentaacetic acid
  • CDTA 2-diaminocyclohexanetetraacetic acid
  • Conditioning aids may also be present in the cosmetic cleaning agents, e.g. in amounts of 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • the preferred conditioning aids include polyquaternium -10, polyquaternium -7 and quaternized guar gum.
  • Preservatives approved in food technology can advantageously be used according to the invention.
  • the omission of a single component affects the unique properties of the overall composition. Therefore, all of the stated components of the preparations according to the invention are inevitably required to carry out the invention.
  • test subjects were asked to use only a mild wash (with 3-10% myrystyl sulfate instead of lauryl ether sulfate) for two weeks.
  • test areas were treated three times a day three times a day with 1 mL washing product
  • test area was rinsed with tap water for 30 s and dried with a disposable paper towel.
  • the areas were treated three times on the 1st and 2nd day
  • SC samples were stripped from the areas using a slide coated with a sugar solution. Later the corneocytes were detached from the slide with PBS buffer solution and the specific SCTE activity was determined.
  • the protein content was determined using the ninhydrin method after alkaline hydrolysis.
  • the komeocyte solutions were evaporated to dryness and the proteins were hydrolyzed for 5 h at 150 ° C. with 2 ml of sodium hydroxide solution (6M).
  • the solution was neutralized with 2 mL hydrochloric acid (6M) and 1 mL sodium propionic acid buffer (3.35 M, pH 5.5) was added. Then 50 ⁇ L of the lysate were distilled with 450 ⁇ L.

Landscapes

  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Organic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Wood Science & Technology (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Bioinformatics & Cheminformatics (AREA)
  • Nuclear Medicine, Radiotherapy & Molecular Imaging (AREA)
  • Pharmacology & Pharmacy (AREA)
  • Medicinal Chemistry (AREA)
  • General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)
  • Detergent Compositions (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne l'utilisation de diamines d'acyle-/dialkyle, très particulièrement du cocoamphoacétate, dans des préparations de nettoyage cosmétiques, contenant de l'eau et des surfactants anioniques pour la protection des enzymes cutanés. L'invention est carctérisée en ce que cette préparation de nettoyage présente une valeur SCTE comprise entre 65 et 95, ladite valeur étant normalisée à l'eau de robinet et mesurée après l'application de l'eau sur la peau humaine, et que le ou les diamines d'acyle-/dialkyle réduisent la CMC du surfactant anionique respectif et qu'elle contient un système tampon consistant en acide citrique et ions citrate, et que la valeur pH de la préparation est ajustée à 4 à 7 .
EP05717149A 2005-03-24 2005-03-24 Preparation tensioactive a endommagement enzymatique reduit Ceased EP1863439A2 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PCT/EP2005/051392 WO2005063172A2 (fr) 2005-03-24 2005-03-24 Preparation tensioactive a endommagement enzymatique reduit

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP1863439A2 true EP1863439A2 (fr) 2007-12-12

Family

ID=34717302

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP05717149A Ceased EP1863439A2 (fr) 2005-03-24 2005-03-24 Preparation tensioactive a endommagement enzymatique reduit

Country Status (4)

Country Link
US (1) US20080027009A1 (fr)
EP (1) EP1863439A2 (fr)
CH (1) CH697391B1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2005063172A2 (fr)

Families Citing this family (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN101262842B (zh) * 2005-09-16 2011-06-29 雷克特本克斯尔有限公司 起泡局部组合物
BRPI0616049A2 (pt) * 2005-09-16 2011-06-07 Reckitt Benckiser, Inc composições tópicas espumantes
DE202020001733U1 (de) 2020-02-28 2020-05-25 Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Neuartige Reinigungszubereitung
DE102020202554A1 (de) 2020-02-28 2021-09-02 Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Neuartige Reinigungszubereitung

Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20020028188A1 (en) * 1999-12-16 2002-03-07 Robert Schmucker Method of preparing particularly skin-compatible cosmetic or dermatological cleansing preparations
WO2004073666A1 (fr) * 2003-02-21 2004-09-02 Beiersdorf Ag Preparation de lavage cosmetique moussante

Family Cites Families (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CA2132289A1 (fr) * 1993-10-12 1995-04-13 Bharat Desai Surfactifs de type amphoacetate tres purs a base d'imidazoline et procedes pour leur preparation
DE19838034A1 (de) * 1998-08-21 2000-02-24 Beiersdorf Ag Verwendung von waschaktiven Substanzen, gewählt aus der Gruppe der N-Acylaminosäuren und der Salze von N-Acylaminosäuren zur Steigerung der Verträglichkeit kosmetischer oder dermatologischer Reinigungszubereitungen
US6566408B1 (en) * 2000-08-01 2003-05-20 Rhodia, Inc. Aqueous surfactant compositions of monoalkyl phosphate ester salts and amphoteric surfactants
DE10150730A1 (de) * 2001-10-13 2003-04-17 Cognis Deutschland Gmbh Kosmetische und/oder pharmazeutische Zubereitungen
DE10150728A1 (de) * 2001-10-13 2003-04-17 Cognis Deutschland Gmbh Kosmetische und/oder pharmazeutische Zubereitungen
DE10322152A1 (de) * 2003-05-16 2004-12-02 Basf Ag Kosmetisches Mittel enhtaltend wenigstens ein Polymer auf Basis von Monomeren mit Stickstoffheterocyclen

Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20020028188A1 (en) * 1999-12-16 2002-03-07 Robert Schmucker Method of preparing particularly skin-compatible cosmetic or dermatological cleansing preparations
WO2004073666A1 (fr) * 2003-02-21 2004-09-02 Beiersdorf Ag Preparation de lavage cosmetique moussante

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
CH697391B1 (de) 2008-09-15
US20080027009A1 (en) 2008-01-31
WO2005063172A3 (fr) 2006-02-09
WO2005063172A2 (fr) 2005-07-14

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