Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/11—Encapsulated compositions
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
  • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
  • A61K8/925—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of animal origin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
  • A61Q1/10—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
  • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes

Definitions

• the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, micro-beads for incorporation into a cosmetic vehicle of such a composition, their manufacturing processes and their uses, in particular as a makeup product.
• the cosmetic compositions of the prior art are usually in a solid form, for example in a powdery form, or else in a liquid form. If they are in a liquid form, then they generally constitute suspensions or emulsions water in oil or oil in water, of various consistencies.
• the cosmetic compositions are most often colored according to the desired use. This is the case, especially eyeshadow or cheek.
• the color of the above-mentioned cosmetic compositions of the prior art is identical to the color of the makeup which results from the application of said compositions, in particular to the skin or integuments of the user.
• a red blush will remain red or in a gradient of this red color, once applied on the cheeks of the user.
• the patent document FR 2 841 155 discloses a cosmetic product in the form of beads consisting of aggregates of grains agglomerated to each other by means of a binding agent.
• the grains are colored by means of pigments.
• the color of the outer layer of the aggregates is likely to differ from that of the inner layers.
• the aggregates are dissociated and the constituent grains of said aggregates are crushed so as to to form a colored powder whose final color, after crushing of the grains, differs from that of the aggregates, before crushing.
• the cosmetic products disclosed in this patent document do not comprise a cosmetic vehicle and the user then manipulates, not a conventional composition of the prior art, but only aggregates of grains, which he must dissociate before crushing. grains to obtain a powder.
• a technical problem to be solved by the invention is to provide an improved cosmetic composition, which may optionally choose a makeup color independent of the color of the cosmetic product, and which does not require, the use, a dissociation of aggregates of grains.
• the solution proposed by the invention to this problem has as its first object a cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises microbeads comprising one or more concentric coating layers around a core, each concentric coating layer comprising a solid phase and a binder, in that at least one of said concentric coating layers comprises a pigment and in that the composition further comprises a cosmetic vehicle.
• the integration of pigments in concentric coating layers prevents the premature release of these pigments.
• the pigments of the composition are not released into the cosmetic vehicle.
• pigments are released only at the time of use • of the composition, when crushing micro-beads. Therefore, in a composition which comprises a vehicle and a composition in the form of microbeads according to the invention, the microbeads do not stain the vehicle before the application for which the composition is intended.
• the micro-beads according to the invention have the advantage of not dissolving in the oil or in water, even in agitation, and of not crashing into a cosmetic composition, especially a cosmetic cream. , resting.
• the subject of the invention is a micro-pearl intended to be incorporated in a cosmetic vehicle, characterized in that said micro-pearl comprises one or more concentric coating layers around a core, each concentric coating layer comprising a solid phase and a binder, in that at least one of said concentric coating layers comprises a pigment, and in that the micro-bead further comprises an outer shell.
• the third object of the invention is a method for manufacturing micro-beads, characterized in that it comprises the following steps of: granulation in the presence of a powdery solid phase and a liquid phase comprising a binder; one or more successive coatings by spraying a liquid phase comprising a binder and dusting a powdery solid phase; and
• the fourth subject of the invention is the use of a composition according to the invention as a product makeup, preferably as eyeshadow, blush or foundation.
• the micro-beads furthermore have an outer shell whose composition is different from the composition of the coating layers; the polarity of the outer shell is different from that of the cosmetic vehicle; the coating layers have a polarity different from that of the outer shell; the coating layers have a polarity identical or similar to that of the cosmetic vehicle; the outer shell is hydrophobic when the cosmetic vehicle is aqueous, or the outer shell is hydrophilic when the cosmetic vehicle is lipid or the outer shell is multilayer when the cosmetic vehicle is both aqueous and lipid; the cosmetic composition is in the form of a powder, a paste, a cream, a gel, a lotion, a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion, a suspension or a solution; the outer shell is hydrophilic or hydrophobic and / or multilayer; the method for manufacturing microbeads further comprises a step of forming an outer shell by spraying a liquid or pasty phase and a solid phase on the coated micro
• the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises micro-beads, also called granules.
• Each micro-bead comprises a central portion, forming the core, and a peripheral portion, formed by one or more concentric coating layers around the core.
• Each of the concentric coating layers comprises a solid phase and a binder.
• At least one coating layer comprises at least one pigment.
• the binding agent, solid phase and pigment composition is homogeneous from one coating layer to another, within each micro-pearl. This makes it possible to obtain microbeads which release a constant color throughout their use.
• the composition may vary, and in particular the amount and / or the nature of the pigment (s) may vary, from one coating layer to another of the micro bead.
• This last embodiment makes it possible to obtain micro-beads which release a given pigment at a certain degree of wear, either from the first use or after a certain time of use of the microbeads. It still allows to obtain micro-beads that release different pigments as they are used and the erosion of the coating layers. Indeed, when the micro-beads are used for example as a solid makeup product, the repeated friction of fingers or a make-up brush erodes the coating layers one after the other, gradually releasing the pigment or pigments they contain.
• the solid phase may be chosen to be formed of a cosmetic powder, such as talc or any powder for cosmetic use, a powder of dry pigments or a cosmetic powder on which pigments have been previously adsorbed, alone or in mixture.
• the solid phase is preferably in free powder form before the formation of the micro-pearl, and in a compacted form in the micro-pearl formed.
• the pigment which may be in the form of a pigment powder before the formation of the micro-pearl, is advantageously chosen from dry powdered pigments which have simply been granulated, or else a grinding of pigments in an ester (isononyl isononanoate), in which the pigments have been adsorbed on a support and then granulated.
• the pigment is present in a concentration of between 0.001 and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the micro-beads comprising it, preferably between 0.01 and 5. % by weight, and in particular 0.75%, 1%, 1.5%, 2 or 3% by weight of the total weight of the microbeads.
• the binding agent is advantageously chosen from vegetable waxes and animal waxes, alone or as a mixture.
• the binding agent is initially used in the form of a binder solution, comprising a vegetable and / or animal wax diluted in an alcohol, the alcohol being evaporated in the micro-pearl finally obtained.
• a natural plant wax is preferred, especially a carnauba wax and / or bee wax.
• a Preferred animal wax is shellac.
• the mixture of carnauba wax, bee and shellac gives advantageous results.
• the microbeads according to the invention have a friability of between 0.05 and 0.5 Newtons.
• the binding agent establishes an unstable bond between the powder grains, so that the microbeads crumble completely when crushed with the fingers.
• the preferred binding agent is a mixture of carnauba wax, bee and shellac and the microbeads have a preferred friability of 0, 05 to 0.5 Newtons.
• the binding agent is present at a concentration of between 1 and 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the microbeads comprising it, preferably between 2 and 20%, and in particular between 4 and 15% by weight of the total weight of the microbeads.
• Each micro-pearl has a diameter of between 300 ⁇ m and 5 mm, preferably between 400 and 900 ⁇ m, preferably about 700 or 800 ⁇ m, shell excluded.
• the micro-beads further comprise an outer shell.
• the composition of the shell is different from that of the layers of coatings. It preferably comprises a solid phase, or excipient, and a binding agent. The hardness of the shell is likely to be greater than that of the coating layers.
• the solid phase used for the outer shell advantageously comprises a powder chosen from mica powder, Timiron ® or talc, or any other powder for cosmetic use.
• the solid phase may further comprise a pigment.
• the shell of the microbeads may be of the same color as that of the coating layers.
• the shell can also be of different color and, in this case, it can hide the colored layers of coating.
• the outer shell may be the color of this cosmetic vehicle, for example of the same color as a cosmetic cream containing the micro-beads.
• the shell may be of a different color from that of the cosmetic vehicle.
• the hull can also be transparent. This shell allows the incorporation of microbeads in a liquid composition, for example an aqueous or oily or mixed external phase emulsion.
• the shell makes it possible to protect the micro-beads, in particular to protect them from early degradation, by solubilization, whatever the vehicle and / or the type of emulsion in which they are mixed.
• the outer shell allows the microbeads not to solubilize in the cosmetic composition in contact with the cosmetic vehicle to which they are mixed, and not to disintegrate before the application for which the composition is intended.
• the shell has a polarity opposite to that of the cosmetic vehicle to which the micro-beads are intended to be mixed.
• the shell is essentially polar when the cosmetic vehicle is essentially apolar, and vice versa.
• it is essentially hydrophobic when the cosmetic vehicle is essentially aqueous, and has a hydrophilic character.
• it is essentially hydrophilic when the cosmetic vehicle is essentially lipidic and has a hydrophobic character.
• the coating layers may have a polarity different from that of the outer shell.
• the shell disintegrates, in the form of a fine powder, for example under the action of an applicator brush, the underlying coating layers are discovered. They are then in contact with the cosmetic vehicle in which they solubilize. They thus gradually release the compounds they contain, and in particular the pigments, homogeneously in the vehicle.
• the coating layers may have a polarity identical or similar to that of the outer shell.
• the underlying coating layers do not solubilize easily in contact with the cosmetic vehicle.
• the compounds they contain, and in particular the pigments are released only under the mechanical action of a brush.
• the binding agent and the powder used for the outer shell determine its polarity, that is to say, its hydrophilic or hydrophobic character.
• the preferred binding agent is selected from a binding solution of animal waxes, Capol 600 ® or any other cosmetic solution in an alcohol.
• the alcohol is an absolute or high alcohol, preferably greater than or equal to 70% alcohol by volume of alcohol of the total volume. After drying, alcohol is not more present than trace in the shell of micro-beads.
• the solution preferably comprises from 5 to 50% binding agent by weight of the total weight of the tacky solution.
• micro-pearls could thus be preserved, under normal laboratory conditions, in natural and artificial light, at a temperature of about 22 ° C., +/- 4 ° C., with stirring, without modifying their initial appearance.
• these same microbeads provided with a hydrophobic shell, are poured into vegetable oil, the shell solubilises in a few minutes, and the oil-soluble pigments solubilize in their turn. In a few seconds with stirring or in a few minutes at rest, the pigments solubilize in the oil and the oil takes on the color of the pigment.
• the preferred binding agent is chosen from a sticky solution of vegetable gum, such as acacia gum, acacia or locust bean gum, or any other solution for cosmetic use, in a diluted alcohol. in water.
• the dilution of alcohol in water is preferably less than or equal to 55% alcohol, preferably 30% by volume of the total volume of the dilution.
• the binder is in solution form prior to formation of the shell, but no longer when the outer shell is formed.
• the solution preferably includes from 5 to 50% binding agent by weight of the total weight of the sticky solution.
• microbeads When a few microbeads are poured with a hydrophilic shell into oil, the oil-proof shell is resistant to oil. Microbeads retain their initial appearance over time (test over several months). The micro-pearls could thus be preserved, under normal laboratory conditions, in natural and artificial light, at a temperature of about 22 ° C., +/- 40 ° C., with stirring, without modifying their initial appearance.
• these same microbeads provided with a hydrophilic shell in pure water or in an aqueous solution, are poured, the shell solubilizes in a few minutes, the pigments which are not very soluble in the aqueous phase do not solubilize or little in the water. Only the shell disappears in a few seconds with agitation and a few minutes at rest. The pigments retain their granular appearance in water, the water takes the appearance of a suspension with small beads of pigments in suspension.
• Timiron ® solid phase gives better results than talc, in particular in combination with a sticky solution of 10% gum in alcohol at 50 ° or with a solution of hydroxypropyl methylcellulose (HPMC) at 1% in 50 ° alcohol. Indeed, in sweet almond oil, there is a partial dissolution of the talc shell but not the shell of Timiron ® .
• Timiron ® or Timiron ® and locust bean gum as a solid phase and a 10% gum solution in 50 ° alcohol as a binder are preferred because the mic -perles thus wrapped do not dissolve in the sweet almond oil and because the step of formation of the shell is done without formation of unwanted granule blocks.
• the combination of Timiron ® and gum acacia as a solid phase and a 10% solution of gum in alcohol at 50 ° as a binder is also preferred because the micro-beads and wrapped only dissolve neither in sweet almond oil nor in toilet milk.
• the outer shell is a multilayer shell.
• a multilayer shell according to the invention is insoluble in water and in oil.
• a multilayer shell insoluble in an O / W emulsion preferably comprises a hydrophilic shell covered with a hydrophobic shell, and a multilayer shell insoluble in an W / O emulsion, preferably comprises a hydrophobic shell covered with a hydrophilic shell.
• the micro-beads are in contact essentially with the lipid phase, the aqueous phase being present in the form of droplets surrounded by surfactants, whereas, in an O / W emulsion, the micro-beads are in contact with the lipid phase. -perles are in contact essentially with the aqueous phase, the lipid phase being present in the form of droplets surrounded by surfactants.
• the Applicant surprisingly observes a better stability of the microbeads with multilayer shells, in the O / W or W / O emulsions, with respect to the microbeads with only one hydrophobic shell or one hydrophilic shell (as appropriate).
• micro-beads according to the invention have the following advantageous characteristics:
• the color of the foundation may be modulated by varying the color of the pigment, the size of the pigmented microbeads, the color and the thickness of the external protective shell, and the proportion of pigmented micro-pearls in the cosmetic vehicle.
• the cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises a cosmetic vehicle.
• This cosmetic vehicle can be solid or liquid, polar or apolar. It is also cosmetically acceptable, that is, it is suitable for use in contact with cells of humans and animals, without toxicity, irritation, undue allergic response and the like, and proportionate to a ratio reasonable benefit / risk.
• the micro-beads are dispersed in the cosmetic vehicle. In other words, they do not aggregate to form aggregates. In any case, the microbeads according to the invention are bound together by a binder in order to form aggregates. It follows from the foregoing that the cosmetic composition according to the invention, comprising a cosmetic vehicle, has a homogeneous appearance.
• the solid cosmetic vehicle is advantageously a powder.
• the liquid cosmetic vehicle is advantageously chosen from a water, an oil, an alcohol, alone or as a mixture, an emulsion, a suspension, a gel, a cream, a lotion, or a solution, for example an aqueous, alcoholic, hydroalcoholic solution. -alcoholic or oily.
• An emulsion may be of the water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W) type, it results from the contacting of an oily phase with an aqueous phase in the presence of surfactants.
• the direction of the emulsion (W / O or O / W) being determined by the procedure and the nature of the oils and surfactants used.
• An O / W emulsion is more fluid and less oily than an W / O emulsion.
• the cosmetic composition according to the invention is intended for topical application.
• composition according to the invention may be in various forms acceptable for topical application, in particular in solid form or in liquid form, depending on the vehicle used. Thus, it may be in the form of a powder, more or less granular because of the presence of microbeads, or in the form of a cream, a paste, a gel, a lotion, emulsion, or solution.
• the cosmetic composition is a makeup product, preferably an eye shadow, a blush or a foundation.
• the makeup product may be in solid form, preferably in powder form, or in liquid form, preferably in the form of cream.
• the invention also relates to a method for manufacturing a composition in the form of microbeads according to the invention.
• the method according to the invention comprises the following steps of: granulation in the presence of a powdery solid phase, preferably crystallized, and a liquid phase comprising a binder; one or more successive coatings by spraying a liquid phase comprising a binder and dusting with a powdery solid phase, preferably crystallized; and
• This process is carried out in at least one rotating turbine around an axis for coating.
• the axis of each rotating turbine is inclined at an angle of 45 to 60 ° to the horizontal.
• the process is carried out at a temperature between 18 and 25 ° C, except for drying which is carried out at 45 ° C maximum in an oven. It is carried out at a hygrometry of less than 70% and under an aspiration of 2500 m 3 per hour.
• the first step is the granulation step. It allows the formation of the central part of the microbead, called the nucleus.
• the granulation step is followed by one or more coating and drying steps.
• Each coating step allows the formation of a coating layer around the core or a previous coating layer.
• the solid phase is powdery, preferably crystallized. It advantageously comprises, as previously described, a cosmetic powder, a dry pigment powder or a cosmetic powder on which pigments have been previously adsorbed.
• the method according to the invention thus makes it possible to granulate cosmetic powders, pigment powders and / or cosmetic powders on which pigments have been previously adsorbed.
• the liquid phase may include water and / or alcohol.
• the binding agent When the binding agent is included in the liquid phase, it constitutes a sticky solution whose density is greater than that of water.
• the binding agent used preferably has a density of between 1010 and 1020 and a melt index of between 16 and 20.
• the size of the micro-beads obtained by the process according to the invention is directly related to the duration of the coating step and therefore to the number of concentric coating layers.
• the weight ratio of liquid phase / solid phase used at each coating step is between 1/4 and 1/5.
• the drying steps can be carried out in an oven at a temperature of between 40 and 55 ° C., preferably 45 to 50 ° C., during 1 h. After each drying step, the alcohol and water are evaporated. This makes it possible to obtain microbeads of dry pigments.
• micro-beads obtained using the aforementioned method therefore consist of a central part, forming the core, and a peripheral portion, formed by one or more concentric coating layers deposited successively according to the method.
• the method according to the invention further comprises a sieving step in order to obtain calibrated microbeads, said sieving step occurring after a final step of drying the coated micro-beads.
• the method according to the invention further comprises a step of forming an outer shell by spraying a liquid or pasty phase and a solid phase on the coated micro-beads, the step forming a hull intervening after a final step of drying the coated micro-beads, before or after the calibration step.
• the binding agent used for the outer shell is provided either with the solid phase or with the liquid phase. In liquid form, the binding agent is preferably a tacky solution.
• binding agent and the solid phase used for the outer shell are as defined above.
• the formation of a hydrophobic or hydrophilic outer shell firstly comprises the impregnation of the micro-beads with a sticky solution, or liquid phase, as described previously respectively for a hydrophobic or hydrophilic outer shell. preferably in a coating turbine.
• the micro-pearls become sticky.
• the micro-beads are sprayed with the solid phase as described above for the outer shell, in the coating turbine.
• This solid phase is thus distributed homogeneously on the surface of the microbeads by contact of the microbeads with each other in the rotating turbine.
• the formation of the shell comprises drying the micro-beads in an oven for about 1 hour at a temperature of about 40 ° C. After this drying step, only traces of residual alcohol remain.
• the formation of a multilayer outer shell is achieved by successive application of the aforementioned methods.
• the invention also relates to the compositions obtained by the process according to the invention.
• the invention also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention as a makeup product, preferably as an eyeshadow, blush or foundation, in solid or liquid form.
• compositions in the form of microbeads. according to the invention are examples of the ingredients and their proportions used to prepare compositions in the form of microbeads. according to the invention.
• the proportions of the ingredients are indicated as percentage by weight of the total composition. This is an example of starting compositions, because the final compositions obtained comprise almost no alcohol or water, which evaporated during the drying steps:
• the binder (natural waxes) is hydrophobic and the micro-beads exhibit good stability in O / W emulsions.
• the binder (natural waxes) is hydrophobic and the micro-beads exhibit good stability in the O / W emulsions.
• Micro-pearl Crushed with dry pigments 69,75%
• Gum arabic solution 1.00%
• the binder is hydrophilic and the micro-beads have good stability in W / O emulsions.
• Micro-pearl
• the hull obtained is water-soluble. It has better stability in oils than the shell of the previous example
• Micro-pearl Crushed dry pigments 69,75%
• Gum arabic solution 1.00%
• the binder is hydrophilic and the micro-beads exhibit good stability in W / O emulsions.
• Natural waxes 10.10% (carnauba, bee, shellac)
• the hull obtained is water-soluble. It has improved stability in an oily environment, thanks to the gum arabic solution which makes a hydrophilic surface film on the shell.
• the hull obtained is water-soluble. It has good stability in an oily environment.
• microbeads are then incorporated into a cream at a rate of 7% by weight of the total composition.
• Micro-pearl 8 / micro-beads of fluid foundation: Micro-pearl:
• the resulting shell is water soluble. It has improved stability in an oily environment, thanks to the gum arabic solution which makes a hydrophilic surface film on the shell.
• microbeads are then incorporated into a cream at a rate of 7% by weight of the total composition.
• Micro-pearl 9 / micro-beads of fluid foundation: Micro-pearl:
• Powder talc 69,83%
• Liquid pigments grinding of pigments in an ester (isononyl isononanoate) 15,10%
• Natural waxes 0.50% (carnauba, bee, shellac)
• the hull obtained is water-soluble. It has improved stability in an oily environment, thanks to the gum arabic solution which makes a hydrophilic surface film on the shell.
• the microbeads are then incorporated into a cream at a rate of 7% by weight of the total composition.
• Micro-pearl Powder: Talc 69,83%
• Liquid pigments grinding of pigments in an ester (isononyl isononanoate) 15.57%
• the hull obtained is water-soluble. It has good stability in an oily environment.
• the micro-beads are then incorporated into a cream at a rate of 10% by weight of the total composition.
• Liquid phase 10% gum solution in 50 ° alcohol 12 /
• Example of ingredients used to make a hydrophilic outer shell :
• Liquid phase 10% gum solution in 50 ° alcohol

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• 2008
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• 2009
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