EP2379051A2 - Agents de conditionnement colorants - Google Patents

Agents de conditionnement colorants

Info

Publication number
EP2379051A2
EP2379051A2 EP09780243A EP09780243A EP2379051A2 EP 2379051 A2 EP2379051 A2 EP 2379051A2 EP 09780243 A EP09780243 A EP 09780243A EP 09780243 A EP09780243 A EP 09780243A EP 2379051 A2 EP2379051 A2 EP 2379051A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
acid
amino
copolymer
preferred
cationic
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP09780243A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Christiane Witte
Hartmut Manneck
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Original Assignee
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Henkel AG and Co KGaA filed Critical Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Publication of EP2379051A2 publication Critical patent/EP2379051A2/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/11—Encapsulated compositions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/26—Aluminium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/737—Galactomannans, e.g. guar; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A61Q5/065—Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/542—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
    • A61K2800/5426—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge cationic

Definitions

  • the present application relates to nourishing tinting agents for keratinic fibers containing a substantive dye, a pigment and a cationic guar derivative and adjusted to a pH in the range of 5.0 to 8.0. Furthermore, the present application relates to specific methods for using these agents.
  • Preparations for tinting and coloring hair are an important type of cosmetic. They may be used to slightly or more intensely nuance the natural hair color according to the desires of the respective person, to achieve a completely different hair color, or to mask unwanted color tones, such as gray tones.
  • Usual hair dyes are, depending on the desired color or durability of the dyeing, formulated either on the basis of oxidation dyes or on the basis of substantive dyes. Often, combinations of oxidation dyes and direct dyes are used to achieve special nuances.
  • Colorants based on oxidation dyes result in brilliant and lasting color shades. However, they require the use of strong oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide solutions.
  • Such colorants contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components and coupler components. The developer components form the actual dyes under the influence of oxidizing agents or of atmospheric oxygen with one another or with coupling with one or more coupler components.
  • Colorants based on direct dyes do not require any oxidizing agents and can be formulated at pH values around the neutral point, but they result in less permanent dyeings.
  • the absorption capacity of the dye molecules on the hair as well as the gloss of the colored hairs can not fully satisfy in many cases either.
  • the hair is treated with special active ingredients, for example quaternary ammonium salts or special polymers, usually in the form of a rinse.
  • the agents used usually have a pH in the acidic range (pH 2.5 to 5.0). Depending on the formulation, this treatment improves the combability, the hold and the fullness of the hair and reduces the split rate.
  • the available active ingredients generally preferably act on the hair surface.
  • active substances are known which give the hair shine, hold, fullness, better wet or dry combing or prevent the split.
  • the internal structural cohesion of the hair fibers which can be greatly influenced, especially in oxidative and reductive processes such as staining and perming. It was in the last
  • these preparations additionally contain active ingredients which were formerly reserved for hair aftertreatment agents. The consumer thus saves an application step; At the same time the packaging cost is reduced, as a
  • a first subject of the present application are therefore agents for the nourishing tint of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, contained in a cosmetically acceptable
  • keratinic fibers are understood to mean furs, wool, feathers and, in particular, human hair.
  • the agents according to the invention contain, as the first constituent essential to the invention, at least one substantive dye. These are dyes that raise directly on the hair and do not require an oxidative process to form the color. Direct dyes are usually organic compounds such as nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols.
  • the substantive dyes are each preferably used in an amount of 0.001 to 20 wt .-%, based on the total application preparation.
  • the total amount of substantive dyes is preferably at most 20% by weight.
  • Direct dyes can be subdivided into anionic, cationic and nonionic substantive dyes.
  • Particularly suitable anionic direct dyes are 6-hydroxy-5 - [(4-sulfophenyl) azo] -2-naphthalenesulfonic acid disodium salt (CI 15.985, Food Yellow No. 3, FD & C Yellow No. 6), 2,4-dinitro-1 - naphthol-7-sulfonic acid disodium salt (Cl.10.316; Acid Yellow 1, Food Yellow No. 1), 2- (indan-1, 3-dion-2-yl) quinoline-x, x-sulfonic acid (mixture of mono- and disulfonic acid) (Cl 47,005, D & C Yellow No. 10, Food Yellow No.
  • Acid Yellow 3 Acid Yellow 10
  • 4 - ((4-amino-3-sulfophenyl) azo) benzenesulfonic acid disodium salt Cl. Acid Yellow 9
  • 5-hydroxy-1- (4-sulfophenyl) -4 - [(4-sulfophenyl) azo] pyrazole-3-carboxylic acid trisodium salt CI 19, 140; Food Yellow No.
  • Acid Blue 1 Bis [4- (diethylamino) phenyl] (5-hydroxy-2,4-disulfophenyl) carbenium inner salt, calcium salt (2: 1) (CI 42,051, Acid Blue 3), N- [4 - [(2, 4-disulfophenyl) [4- [ethyl (phenylmethyl) amino) phenyl] methylene] -2,5-cyclohexadien-1-ylidene] -N-ethylbenzenemethanamine hydroxide, inner salt, sodium salt (CI 42,080, Acid Blue 7), (2-Sulfophenyl) di [4- (ethyl (4-sulfophenyl) methyl) amino) phenyl] -carbenium dinatrium salt betaine (CI 42.090, Acid Blue 9, FD & C Blue No.
  • anionic substantive dyes are those having the international designations or trade names tetrabromophenol blue, Acid Yellow 1, Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, Pigment Red 57: 1, Acid Blue 7 , Acid Green 50, Acid Violet 43, Acid Black 1 and Acid Black 52 known compounds.
  • Cationic direct dyes are those having the international designations or trade names tetrabromophenol blue, Acid Yellow 1, Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, Pigment Red 57: 1, Acid Blue 7 , Acid Green 50, Acid Violet 43, Acid Black 1 and Acid Black 52 known compounds.
  • Particularly suitable cationic direct dyes are 9- (dimethylamino) benzo [a] phenoxazine-7-ium chloride (Cl 51, 175, Basic Blue 6), di [4- (diethylamino) phenyl] [4- (ethylamino ) naphthyl] carbenium chloride (Cl 42,595, Basic Blue 7), di- (4- (dimethylamino) phenyl) - (4- (methylphenylamino) naphthalen-1-yl) carbenium chloride (CI 42,563; Basic Blue 8), 3,7-di (dimethylamino) -phenothiazine-5-ium chloride (CI 52.015 Basic Blue 9), di [4- (dimethylamino) phenyl] [4- (phenylamino) naphthyl] carbenium chloride ( Cl.44,045; Basic Blue 26), 2 - [(4- (ethyl (2-hydroxy
  • aromatic systems substituted with a quaternary nitrogen group such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17, as well as
  • Preferred cationic substantive dyes of group (c) are in particular the following compounds:
  • cationic direct dyes which are sold under the trademark Arianor ®, according to the invention are also very particularly preferred cationic direct dyes.
  • Suitable nonionic substantive dyes are in particular nonionic nitro and quinone dyes and neutral azo dyes.
  • Suitable blue nitro dyes are in particular:
  • 1,2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene (CI 76,020), 1 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene (HC Yellow 2), 1- (2-hydroxyethoxy) -2 - [(2-hydroxyethyl ) amino] -5-nitrobenzene (HC Yellow 4), 1-amino-2 - [(2- hydroxyethyl) amino] -5-nitrobenzene (HC Yellow 5), 4 - [(2,3-dihydroxypropyl) amino] -3-nitro-1-trifluoromethylbenzene (HC Yellow 6), 2- [di (2- hydroxyethyl) amino] -5-nitrophenol, 2 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -1-methoxy-5-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-3-nitrophenol, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1-amino-2- methyl 6-nitrobenzene, 1- (2-hydroxyethoxy) -3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene, 2,3
  • Preferred nonionic substantive dyes are those under the international designations or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red Red, HC Red II, HC Blue II, HC Blue 11, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9 known compounds, and 1, 4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1, 4-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4- (2 -hydroxyethyl) aminophenol, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitro-1-methylbenzene, 1-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethyl ) -amino-5-chloro-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 1- (2'-ure
  • the substantive dyes each represent uniform compounds. Rather, due to the production process for the individual dyes, minor amounts of other components may be included, as far as these do not adversely affect the dyeing result or for other reasons, e.g. toxicological, must be excluded.
  • direct dyes also naturally occurring dyes may be used, as for example in henna red, henna neutral, henna black, chamomile, sandalwood, black tea, buckthorn bark, sage, bluewood, madder root, Catechu, Sedre and alkano root are included.
  • Very particular preferred substantive dyes according to the invention are Baisc Brown 16, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Blue 99, HC Blue No. 12, 1-amino-5-chloro-4 (2,3-dihydroxypropylamino) -2-nitrobenzene (Red Y), Acid Violet 43, 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitrophenol (Red B54), hydroxyethyl-2-nitro-toluidine.
  • the agents according to the invention contain at least one pigment which has at least one inorganic constituent.
  • the term "pigment” is understood according to the invention to mean a substance consisting of particles and virtually insoluble in the application medium, which is used as the colorant.
  • the purely inorganic pigments may be e.g. to act titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, silica or silicates such as mica.
  • naturally occurring inorganic pigments such as, for example, ocher, umber, green earth, Terra di Siena, and graphite are preferred according to the invention.
  • the pigments are synthetic products, which are constructed according to the same structure principle as beads of several layers with different refractive index (layer-substrate pigments).
  • layer-substrate pigments On a substrate, usually mica, one or more layers of metal oxides are applied (metal oxide mica pigments), wherein the type and thickness of the metal oxide layer determines the effect of the pigments in the respective medium.
  • metal oxides are preferably titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, tin oxide, iron oxide or silica in question.
  • colored complexes such as, for example, Berlin Blue, or organic dyes in the coating. Suitable examples of such layer-substrate pigments are:
  • Timiron® ® the pigments available from Merck under the trade name Timiron® ®, especially Timiron® Super Gold ®, Timiron® ® Sun Gold Sparkle MP-29, Timiron ® Super SilverThe - the pigments marketed by the Eckart company under the trade name Prestige ® , in particular Prestige ® Sun Gold, Prestige ® Bright Mystic Violet, Prestige ® Sparkling Pure Gold, Prestige ® Fire Red, Prestige ® Amethyst, Prestige ® Sparkling Lemon Gold Merck under the trade name Dichrona ® marketed pigments, especially Dichrona ® RY and the marketed by Merck under the trade name Colorona ® pigments, especially Colorona ® Light Blue.
  • pigments are the synthetic mica types, optionally coated with metal oxides or oxides.
  • synthetic pigments have been described, for example, by Sun Chemical Corporation in W0-A1 -2005065632 and W0-A1 -2005065632, to which reference is hereby explicitly made.
  • Particularly suitable metal oxides according to the invention for coating the synthetic mica are titanium dioxide, crom oxide, iron oxide and mixtures thereof.
  • Synthetic mica coated with titanium dioxide is particularly preferred in the present invention.
  • Such pigments are sold, for example, by the company Sun Chemical Corporation under the INCI name Synthetic Fluorphologopite
  • pigments having a particle size distribution in the range from about 2 ⁇ m to 150 ⁇ m, preferably from 10 ⁇ m to 125 ⁇ m and from 10 ⁇ m to 80 ⁇ m.
  • the pigments having at least one inorganic constituent are preferably contained in an amount of 0.01-0.2 wt%, particularly preferably 0.05-0.1 wt%.
  • the agents according to the invention comprise at least one cationic guar derivative.
  • the derivatives of guar are usually obtained by etherification and / or esterification of the hydroxy groups.
  • the cationic derivatives essential to the invention are derived formally from guar in that at least some of the hydroxyl groups have been reacted with alcohols and / or acids which carry at least one cationic group.
  • the guar compounds in which the cationic groups are connected via an ether function with the saccharide system of guar have proven to be particularly preferred.
  • Both the guar itself and the nonionic guar derivatives, such as, for example, hydroxypropyl guar can serve as the basis of this etherification with the cationically modified group.
  • quaternary groups quaternary ammonium groups, in particular the group trimethylammonium, have proven to be particularly preferred.
  • hydroxy groups have been found to be particularly preferred. It is very particularly preferred if the hydrogen atom of at least one hydroxyl group on the ring system has been replaced by a C 1 - to C 6 -alkyl group which carries at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one hydroxyl group.
  • a particularly preferred group according to the invention is the 2-hydroxy-3-trimethylammonium propyl group.
  • Such cationic guar derivatives are commercially available, for example, under the INCI names Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride and Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride.
  • Such products are sold, for example, by the company Rhodia under the trade name Jaguar ® and the company Cognis under the name Cosmedia® guar ®.
  • the commercial product Jaguar® C17 is a very particularly preferred cationic guar derivative according to the invention.
  • the subject matter of the present invention is further characterized by the choice of a specific pH range between 5.0 and 8.0, in which the effects of the invention occur. A most preferred range is 6.0 to 7.0. If this is necessary to adjust the pH, the compositions according to the invention may contain an acid and / or an alkalizing agent and / or a buffer system. Suitable acids according to the invention are both organic and inorganic acids.
  • Hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid and phosphoric acid are to be mentioned in particular as preferred inorganic acids.
  • Preferred organic acids are acetic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid and malic acid.
  • Malic acid is a particularly preferred acid used.
  • preferred alkalizing agents are alkali or alkaline earth hydroxides, ammonia or organic amines.
  • the organic amines are preferably selected from the group consisting of monoethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol, 2-amino-2-ethyl-1 , 3-propanediol, 2-amino-2-methylbutanol and triethanolamine.
  • monoethanolamine, triethanolamine and 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol and 2-amino-2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol are preferred within the scope of this group.
  • the use of amino acids and / or oligopeptides such as ⁇ -aminocaproic acid as alkalizing agent is also preferred in the context of the present invention.
  • amino acids and oligopeptides are preferably used, whose 2.5 wt .-% solutions in water have a pH of 9 and greater.
  • an amino acid is arginine which is preferably used.
  • buffer systems which are preferred according to the invention are the tris / HCl buffer (about pH 6.5), the diammonium hydrogenphosphate / potassium carbonate buffer, the sodium phosphate buffer (suitable up to about pH 8.5), the citric acid / sodium citrate buffer, the triethanolamine / HCI buffer (pH 6.8-8.8), the triethanolamine / CO 2 buffer (pH 7-12) and a HEPES buffer (4- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine-1-ethanesulfonic acid); for example, commercially available from Sigma; pH range from about 6.8 to 8.2).
  • Buffer systems with a molarity of 50 to 15 ⁇ m have proven particularly suitable. In the case of the HEPES buffer, a molarity of 10 mM is particularly preferred. Buffers based on potassium dihydrogen phosphate are preferred according to the invention.
  • the agents according to the invention comprise at least one further cationic compound which is different from the guar derivative.
  • this further cationic compound is selected from the group of cationic surfactants.
  • Cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats and the amidoamines are preferred according to the invention.
  • Preferred quaternary Ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, especially chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g.
  • cetyltrimethylammonium chloride As cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, Lauryldimethylbenzylammoniumchlorid and tricetyl methylammonium chloride, as well as under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83 known imidazolium compounds.
  • the long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element.
  • Preferred esterquats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines.
  • Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ®, ® and Dehyquart® Armocare® ®.
  • the alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines.
  • An inventively particularly suitable compound from this group of substances under the name Tegoamid ® S 18 commercial stearamidopropyl dimethylamine is.
  • cationic surfactants which are suitable according to the invention are the substances known under the INCI names Linoleamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate, Cocamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate and Stearamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate. These are sold, for example, by the company Mona under the trade names Phospholipid EFA® , Phospholipid PTC® and Phospholipid SV® .
  • Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and stearyltrimethylammonium chloride are very particularly preferred further quaternary compounds according to the invention.
  • the cationic surfactants are contained in the compositions according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total application preparation. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • the further cationic compound other than the guar derivative is a cationic polymer.
  • cationic polymers are polymers which have a group in the main and / or side chain which is “permanently cationic.”
  • "permanently cationic” refers to those polymers which, irrespective of the pH of the composition, are cationic Group have. These are usually polymers containing a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group.
  • Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups. In particular, such polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group over a C
  • R 1 is -H or -CH 3
  • Particular preference is given to cationic polymers in the context of these polymers, for which at least one of the following conditions applies: R 1 is a methyl group R 2 , R 3 and R 4 are methyl groups - Value 2.
  • Suitable physiologically acceptable counterions X ' are, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions. Preference is given to halide ions, in particular chloride. A particularly suitable homopolymer is, if desired, crosslinked,
  • polystyrene resin polystyrene resin
  • crosslinking can be carried out with the aid of poly olefinically unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallylpolyglyceryl ethers, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose.
  • Methylenebisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.
  • the homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a non-aqueous polymer dispersion, which should have a polymer content of not less than 30 wt .-%.
  • Such polymer dispersions are (under the names Salcare ® SC 95 about 50% polymer content, additional components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI name: PPG-1 trideceth-6) ) and Salcare ® SC 96 (about 50% polymer content, additional components: mixture of diesters of propylene glycol with a mixture of caprylic and capric acid (INCI name: propylene glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI - Designation: PPG-1-Trideceth-6)) commercially available.
  • Copolymers with monomer units of the formula (G1-I) contain, as nonionic monomer units, preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid C-. 4- alkyl esters and methacrylic acid Ci ⁇ -alkyl ester. Among these nonionic monomers, the acrylamide is particularly preferred. These copolymers can also be crosslinked, as described above in the case of the homopolymers. A preferred copolymer according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer. Such copolymers wherein the monomers are in a weight ratio of about 20:80 are commercially available as about 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion under the name
  • quaternized cellulose derivatives such as are available under the names of Celquat ® and Polymer JR ® commercially.
  • the compounds Celquat ® H 100, Celquat L 200 and Polymer JR ® ® 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives, cationic alkyl polyglycosides according to DE-PS 44 13 686, cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50,
  • Polysiloxanes having quaternary groups such as the commercially available products Q2- 7224 (manufactured by Dow Corning, a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone), Dow Corning® 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone, also referred to as amodimethicones), SM -2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ® - Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th Goldschmidt.), diquaternary polydimethyl siloxanes, Quaternium-80), polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid.
  • Q2- 7224 manufactured by Dow Corning, a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone
  • Dow Corning® 929 emulsion containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone, also referred
  • Such compounds are sold under the names Gafquat ® 734 and Gafquat ® 755 commercially,
  • Vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl imidazolium copolymers such as those offered under the names Luviquat ® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552, quaternized polyvinyl alcohol, as well as by the names of Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and Polyquaternium 27, having quaternary Nitrogen atoms in the polymer backbone.
  • Can be used as cationic polymers are sold under the names Polyquaternium-24 (commercial product z. B. Quatrisoft ® LM 200), known polymers.
  • copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone such as the commercial products Copolymer 845 (manufactured by ISP), Gaffix ® VC 713 (manufactured by ISP), Gafquat ® ASCP 1011, Gafquat ® HS 1 10, Luviquat ® 8155 and Luviquat ® MS 370 are available.
  • preferred cationic polymers are cationic cellulose derivatives and chitosan and its derivatives, in particular the commercial products Polymer ® JR 400, Hydagen ® HCMF and Kytamer ® PC, cationic honey derivatives, in particular the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50, cationic Alkylpolyglycodside according to DE-PS 44 13 686 and polyquaternium-37 type polymers.
  • cationized protein hydrolysates are to be counted among the cationic polymers, wherein the underlying protein hydrolyzate from the animal, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the Plant, for example, from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, marine life forms, such as fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates may originate.
  • the protein hydrolyzates on which the cationic derivatives according to the invention are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis.
  • cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof.
  • the quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides.
  • the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized.
  • the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives according to the invention those mentioned under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 th Street, NW, Suite 300 Cocodimium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxyprop
  • compositions of the invention preferably contain the cationic polymers in an amount of 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, in particular in an amount of 0.1 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the total application preparation.
  • the effects according to the invention can be further increased if the agents according to the invention contain at least one silicone compound. According to the invention preferred
  • Silicone compounds are the silicones or silicone gums.
  • suitable silicones or silicone gums are in particular dialkyl and alkylaryl siloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenyl-polysiloxane, and their alkoxylated, quaternized or anionic derivatives.
  • silicones examples are:
  • Oligomeric polydimethylcyclosiloxanes (INCI name: Cyclomethicone), in particular the tetrameric and the pentameric compound, which are available as commercial products DC 344 or DC 345 from Dow
  • Hexamethyl disiloxane (INCI name: Hexamethyldisiloxane), z. B. under the name
  • Silicone glycol copolymers (INCI name: Dimethicone Copolyol), z. B. the commercial products
  • esters and partial esters of silicone-glycol copolymers as described for example by the company
  • Fancorsil ® LIM Dimethicone Copolyol
  • Silicone also referred to as amodimethicone
  • SM-2059 manufactured by General Electric
  • anionic silicone oils such as the product Dow Corning ® 1784 amino-modified organosilicones, such as the product Abil Soft A843 (manufacturer Osi
  • the preparations according to the invention contain a combination of a volatile and a nonvolatile silicone.
  • Volatile in the context of the invention are those silicones which have a volatility which is equal to or greater than the volatility of the cyclic, pentameric dimethylsiloxane.
  • Such combinations are also available as commercial products (e.g., Dow Corning® 1401, Dow Corning® 1403, and Dow Corning® 1501, each of mixtures of one Cyclomethicone and a dimethiconol) available.
  • Such silicone combinations are very particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • the preparations according to the invention preferably contain the silicones in amounts of 0.01-10% by weight, in particular 0.1-5% by weight, based on the total application preparation. Furthermore, it has been found that the effects according to the invention can be further increased if the agents contain at least one UV filter.
  • the UV filters suitable according to the invention are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to their structure and their physical properties. On the contrary, all UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector and whose absorption maximum lies in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC ( ⁇ 280 nm) range are suitable. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.
  • the UV filters preferred according to the invention can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.
  • UV filters which can be used according to the invention are 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methylsulfate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl salicylate (homosalates), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone (benzophenone-3; Uvinul ® M 40, Uvasorb MET ®, ® Neo Heliopan BB, Eusolex ® 4360), 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts ( Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid; Parsol ® HS; Neo Heliopan Hydro ®), 3,3 '- (1, 4- phenylenedimethylene) bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo [2.2.1] hept-1- yl-methane sulfonic acid) and salts thereof, 1- (4-tert-butyl
  • water-insoluble UV filters are those which dissolve in water at not more than 1% by weight, in particular not more than 0.1% by weight, at 20 ° C. Furthermore, these compounds should be soluble in the usual cosmetic oil components at room temperature to at least 0.1, in particular at least 1 wt .-%).
  • the use of water-insoluble UV filters may therefore be preferred according to the invention.
  • These UV filters have the general structure U - Q.
  • the structural part U stands for a UV-absorbing group.
  • This group can in principle be derived from the known UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector, in which a group, generally a hydrogen atom, of the UV filter is replaced by a cationic group Q, in particular having a quaternary amino function ,
  • Compounds from which the structural part U can be derived are, for example, substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid residues,
  • Structural parts U which are derived from cinnamic acid amide or from N, N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid amide are preferred according to the invention.
  • the structural parts U can in principle be chosen such that the absorption maximum of the UV filters can be in both the UVA (315-400 nm) and in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC ( ⁇ 280 nm) range. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.
  • the structural part U also as a function of structural part Q, is preferably selected so that the molar extinction coefficient of the UV filter at the absorption maximum is above 15,000, in particular above 20,000.
  • the structural part Q preferably contains, as a cationic group, a quaternary ammonium group. This quaternary ammonium group can in principle be connected directly to the structural part U, so that the
  • Structural part U represents one of the four substituents of the positively charged nitrogen atom.
  • one of the four substituents on the positively charged nitrogen atom is preferably a group, especially one
  • Alkylene group having 2 to 6 carbon atoms which acts as a compound between the structural part U and the positively charged nitrogen atom.
  • the group Q has the general structure - (CH 2 ) X -N + R 1 R 2 R 3 X ' , where x is an integer from 1 to 4, R 1 and R 2 independently of one another are Ci_ 4 Alkyl groups, R 3 is a Ci_ 22 alkyl group or a benzyl group and X 'is a physiologically acceptable anion. in the
  • x preferably represents the number 3
  • R 1 and R 2 each represent one
  • Methyl group and R 3 either for a methyl group or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain having 8 to 22, in particular 10 to 18, carbon atoms.
  • Physiologically acceptable anions are, for example, inorganic anions such as halides, especially chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions and organic anions such as
  • Lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate Lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.
  • Two preferred UV filters with cationic groups are those available as commercial products
  • Cinnamic acid compounds trimethylammonium chloride (lncroquat ® UV-283) and dodecyl tosylate (Escalol ® HP 610).
  • the teaching of the invention also includes the use of a combination of several UV filters.
  • the combination of at least one water-insoluble UV filter with at least one UV filter with a cationic group is preferred.
  • a very particularly preferred UV filter according to the invention is benzophenone-4.
  • the UV filters are contained in the compositions of the invention usually in amounts of 0.01-5 wt .-%, based on the total application preparation. Amounts of 0.05-2.5 wt .-% are preferred.
  • compositions according to the invention are more advantageous in terms of the properties according to the invention if they contain at least one vitamin, one provitamin, one
  • Vitamin precursor and one of their derivatives.
  • vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are preferred, which are usually assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H.
  • vitamin A The group of substances known as vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A 1 ) as well as the 3,4-
  • the ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol.
  • vitamin A component according to the invention for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and
  • the invention Preparations used contain the vitamin A component preferably in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total application preparation.
  • the vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include vitamin B 1 (thiamine) vitamin B 2 (riboflavin)
  • Vitamin B 3 the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed.
  • Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total application preparation.
  • Vitamin B 5 pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone.
  • Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group.
  • Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, the panthenol triacetate, the panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate and also the cationic panthenol derivatives disclosed in WO 92/13829.
  • the said compounds of the vitamin B 5 type are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total application preparation. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • Vitamin B 6 pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal.
  • the compounds of the vitamin B 6 type mentioned are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.01-5% by weight, based on the total application preparation. Levels of 0.05-1 wt% are particularly preferred.
  • Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the compositions according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total application preparation. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred. Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially ⁇ -tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, which include in particular the esters such as acetate, nicotinate, phosphate and succinate, are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total application preparation.
  • Vitamin F is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
  • Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-cf] -imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has meanwhile prevailed.
  • Biotin is contained in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.0001 to 1, 0 wt .-%, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01 wt .-%, each based on the total application preparation.
  • the color-changing agents according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, C, E and H.
  • Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin are particularly preferred. Panthenol is very particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • Further optional ingredients which may positively influence the properties of the agents according to the invention are preservatives.
  • the preservatives used are the classes of substances listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetics Regulation. In general, the following substances and their mixtures are used: aromatic alcohols, such as, for example, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, phenethyl alcohol, phenoxyisopropanol,
  • Aldehydes such as formaldehyde solution and paraformaldehyde, glutaraldehyde parabens, for example methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben
  • 1, 2-alkanediols having 5 to 22 carbon atoms in the carbon chain such as 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-heptanediol, 1, 2-decanediol, 1, 2-dodecanediol, 1, 2- Hexadecanediol, formaldehyde releasing compounds such as DMDM hydantoin, diazolidinyl urea, halogenated compounds such as isothiazolinones such as methylchloroisothiazolinone / methylisothiazolinone, triclosan, triclocarban, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, 5-bromo-5-nitro-1,3-dioxane, chlorhexidine digluconate and chlorhexidine acetate, 2 Bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol, methyldibromo-glu
  • Organic acids and their physiologically tolerated salts such as citric acid, lactic acid, acetic acid, benzoic acid, sorbic acid, salicylic acid, dehydroacetic acid
  • Active ingredients with additional effects such as zinc pyrithione, piroctone olamine, antioxidants such as BHT (butylated hydroxytoluene), BHA (butylated hydroxyanisole), Propyl gallate, t-butyl hydroquinone,
  • the water activity in the compositions according to the invention can also be reduced to the extent that growth of microorganisms can no longer take place.
  • glycerol and sorbitol are used for this purpose.
  • Phenoxyethanol, methylisothiazolinone and methylparaben have proven to be particularly preferred preservatives.
  • the amounts of preservative are from 0 to 5 wt.%, Preferably from 0.0001 to 2 wt.%, Particularly preferably from 0.005 to 1 wt.% And most preferably from 0.1 to 1, 0 wt.% Based on the total amount of the composition.
  • the agents comprise at least one fatty alcohol, one fatty acid or one of these ethoxylated and / or propoxylated derivatives.
  • the fatty acids used can be linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Among these could be mentioned, for example, isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ® 871 and Emersol ® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ® (Cognis) fatty acids.
  • fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic as well as their technical mixtures, which are obtained, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids.
  • Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.
  • Fatty alcohols which may be used are saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C 6 - C 30 -, preferably C 0 - C 22 - and particularly preferably C 2 - C 22 - carbon atoms.
  • Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character.
  • the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction.
  • those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reducing naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols.
  • Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ® such as Stenol ® 1618 or Lanette ® such as Lanette ® O or Lorol ®, for example, Lorol ® C8, Lorol C14 ®, Lorol C18 ®, ® Lorol C8-18, HD-Ocenol ®, Crodacol ® such as Crodacol ® CS, Novol ®, Eutanol ® G, Guerbitol ® 16, Guerbitol ® 18, Guerbitol ® 20, Isofol ® 12, Isofol ® 16, Isofol ® 24, Isofol ® 36, Isocarb ® 12, Isocarb ® 16 or acquire Isocarb® ® 24 for sale.
  • wool wax alcohols as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ®, White Swan ®, Coronet ® or Fluilan ® can be used according to the invention.
  • the agents according to the invention advantageously contain
  • the fatty alcohols and / or the fatty acids are particularly preferred according to the invention which carry an alkyl radical R which has 6 to 22 carbon atoms and can be both linear and branched. Preference is given to primary linear and methyl-branched in the 2-position aliphatic radicals.
  • alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl.
  • Fatty acids and fatty alcohols with alkyl groups can each be uniform substances. However, it is generally preferred to use native vegetable or animal raw materials in the production of these substances, so that substance mixtures having different alkyl chain lengths depending on the respective raw material are obtained.
  • both products with a "normal” homolog distribution and those with a narrow homolog distribution can be used.
  • "normal" homolog distribution are meant mixtures of homologs which are obtained, for example, in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. Narrowed homolog distributions, on the other hand, are obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates are used as catalysts.
  • the use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.
  • the fatty alcohols, fatty acids or their ethoxylated and / or propoxylated derivatives are preferably used in the agents according to the invention in concentrations of 0.1-20% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • the amount is 0.5-15 wt .-%, wherein amounts of 1-10 wt .-% may be very particularly advantageous.
  • the agents according to the invention may comprise at least one synthetic thickening polymer.
  • Such polymers can increase the viscosity of aqueous and / or nonaqueous phases in cosmetic preparations. In aqueous phases, their viscosity-increasing function is due to their solubility in water or their hydrophilic nature.
  • aqueous phase polymeric thickeners acrylamide copolymer, acrylamide / sodium acrylate copolymer, acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, acrylates / acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylates Crosspolymer, Acrylates / Ceteth-20 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates / Ceteth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Laureth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Palmeth-25 Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Palmeth-25 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates / Steareth-50 Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Steareth-20 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates / Steareth-50 Acrylate Copo
  • Another way to increase the viscosity of cosmetic products is the thickening of the non-aqueous phase, the lipid phase of the cosmetic products.
  • polymers are used which are not water-soluble but compatible with lipids. They are also used for the gelation of cosmetic products with high lipid levels.
  • Butylene / Ethylene / Styrene Copolymer C20-24 Alkyl Dimethicone, C24-28 Alkyl Dimethicone, C1-5 Alkyl Galactomannan, C20-24 Alkyl Methicone, C24-28 Alkyl Methicone, C30-45 Alkyl Methicone, Cetearyl Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, C30-38 Olefin / Isopropyl Maleate / MA Copolymer, C6-14 Perfluoroalkylethyl Acrylate / HEMA Copolymer, Decene / Butene Copolymer, Dilinoleic Acid / Ethylenediamine Copolymer, Dilinoleic Acid / Sebacic Acid / Piperazine / Ethylenediamine Copolymer, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone / Phenyl Vinyl Dime
  • Trimethylsiloxysilicate / Dimethiconol Crosspolymer Vinyl Dimethicone / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Vinyl Dimethicone / Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, VP / Eicosene Copolymer, VP / Hexadecenes Copolymer.
  • agents which contain a synthetic polymer which is capable of thickening the aqueous phase of the agents are agents which contain a synthetic polymer which is capable of thickening the aqueous phase of the agents.
  • Particularly preferred such polymers are the homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid and / or derivatives thereof, which may optionally contain further comonomers.
  • the synthetic thickening polymer is an anionic synthetic polymer.
  • Preferred anionic groups are the carboxylate and sulfonate groups.
  • anionic monomers from which the polymeric anionic thickeners may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, itaconic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.
  • the acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt.
  • Preferred monomers are maleic anhydride and in particular 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.
  • Preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents.
  • Such compounds are available under the INCI name "carbomer” for example, under the trade drawing Carbopol ® commercially. Also preferred is the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2 is methylpropanesulfonic acid, which is commercially available for example under the name Rheothik ® 11-80 commercially.
  • copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid esters, methacrylic acid esters, itaconic acid mono- and diesters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.
  • Preferred anionic copolymers are, for example, copolymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their C 1 - to C 6 -alkyl esters, as sold under the INCI declaration Acrylates Copolymers.
  • a preferred commercial product is, for example, Aculyn ® 33 from Rohm & Haas.
  • preference is also given to copolymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their C 1 - to C 6 -alkyl esters and the esters of an ethylenically unsaturated acid and an alkoxylated fatty alcohol.
  • Suitable ethylenically unsaturated acids are, in particular, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and itaconic acid; suitable alkoxylated fatty alcohols are in particular steareth-20 or ceteth-20.
  • Such copolymers are sold by Rohm & Haas under the trade name Aculyn ® 22 and by National Starch under the trade designations Structure ® Structure 2001 ® 3,001th
  • Preferred anionic copolymers are also acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers.
  • a particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% 2-acrylamido-2 methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group is wholly or partially present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt.
  • This copolymer can also be present in crosslinked form, with crosslinking agents preferably being polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxythane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylenebisacrylamide.
  • Polymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, in particular those with crosslinks, are preferred thickeners.
  • a 1, 9-decadiene cross-linked methyl vinyl ether-maleic acid copolymer is available under the name ® Stabileze QM.
  • the synthetic thickening polymer is a cationic polymer have been found in the context of this application for reasons underlying work to be particularly stable on storage.
  • R 18 is a methyl group - R 19
  • R 20 and R 21 are methyl groups m is 2.
  • Suitable physiologically tolerated counterions X " include, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions.
  • polystyrene resin polystyrene resin
  • crosslinking can be carried out with the aid of poly olefinically unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallyl polyglyceryl ethers, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives, such as erythritol. Pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose. Methylenebisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.
  • the homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a nonaqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content of less than 30% by weight.
  • Such polymer dispersions are (under the names Salcare ® SC 95 about 50% polymer content, additional components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI name: PPG-1 trideceth-6) ) and Salcare ® SC 96 (about 50% polymer content, additional components: mixture of diesters of propylene glycol with a mixture of caprylic and capric acid (INCI name: propylene glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI - Designation: PPG-1-Trideceth-6)) commercially available.
  • Copolymers containing monomer units according to formula (III) as a non-ionic monomer preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid-C- ⁇ _ 4 -alkyl and methacrylic acid-C - ⁇ - alkyl ester.
  • the acrylamide is particularly preferred.
  • These copolymers can also be crosslinked, as described above in the case of the homopolymers.
  • a preferred copolymer according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer.
  • Such copolymers in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20:80 are commercially available as approximately 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion 92 under the name Salcare ® SC.
  • the thickening synthetic polymers are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 0.001 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 2% by weight, very particularly preferably from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total funds included.
  • the nourishing agents according to the invention for tinting keratinic fibers may contain, in addition to the components essential to the invention, all active ingredients, additives and auxiliaries known for such preparations.
  • compositions according to the invention contain at least one surfactant, with both anionic and zwitterionic, ampholytic, nonionic and cationic surfactants being suitable in principle. In many cases, however, it has proved to be advantageous to select the surfactants from anionic, zwitterionic or nonionic surfactants. With regard to the cationic surfactants, reference should be made at this point to the above statements.
  • Suitable anionic surfactants in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such. Example, a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 10 to 22 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule.
  • anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium and the mono-, di- and Trialkanolammoniumsalze with 2 or 3 C atoms in the alkanol group, linear fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms (soaps )
  • Ethercarbon Acid the formula RO- (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x -CH 2 -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group with
  • Sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to
  • Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids containing 12 to 18 carbon atoms are especially preferred.
  • Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x -SO 3 H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 10 to 18 C atoms and x 0 or 1 to 12,
  • esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols the addition products of about 2-15
  • Molecules represent ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide to fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule and in particular salts of saturated and in particular unsaturated C 8 -C 22 carboxylic acids, such as oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and palmitic acid ,
  • Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group z.
  • a polyol group a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and Polyglykoletheroli.
  • Such compounds are, for example
  • Preferred nonionic surfactants are alkyl polyglycosides of the general formula R 1 O- (Z) x .
  • the alkyl radical R 1 contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and may be both linear and branched. Preference is given to primary linear and methyl-branched in the 2-position aliphatic radicals.
  • Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl.
  • oxo-alcohols compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.
  • the alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention can contain, for example, only one particular alkyl radical R 1 .
  • these compounds are but starting from natural fats and oils or mineral oils.
  • the alkyl radicals R are mixtures corresponding to the starting compounds or corresponding to the particular work-up of these compounds.
  • Particular preference is given to those alkylpolyglycosides in which R 1 consists essentially of C 8 and C 10 -alkyl groups, essentially of C 12 and C 14 -alkyl groups, essentially of C 8 - to C 16 -alkyl groups or essentially of C 12 - to C 16 alkyl groups.
  • sugar building block Z it is possible to use any desired mono- or oligosaccharides.
  • sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides are used.
  • Such sugars are, for example, glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose.
  • Preferred sugar building blocks are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.
  • the alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain on average from 1.1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides having x values of 1.1 to 1.6 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to alkyl glycosides in which x is 1: 1 to 1, 4.
  • the alkyl glycosides can also serve to improve the fixation of fragrance components on the hair.
  • this substance class as a further constituent of the preparations according to the invention in the event that an effect of the perfume oil on the hair which exceeds the duration of the hair treatment is desired.
  • alkoxylated homologs of said alkyl polyglycosides can also be used according to the invention. These homologs may contain on average up to 10 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units per alkyl glycoside unit.
  • zwitterionic surfactants can be used, in particular as cosurfactants.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO () or -SO 3 () group in the molecule.
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example the cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinate, for example the cocoacylaminopropyldimetic acid thylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxylmethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat.
  • a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
  • ampholytic surfactants are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which, apart from a C 8 -C 18 -alkyl or acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO 3 H group and are capable of forming internal salts.
  • ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group.
  • Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, acylaminoethylaminopropionat the coconut and the C 12-i 8 acyl sarcosine.
  • the compounds used as surfactant with alkyl groups may each be uniform substances. However, it is generally preferred to use native vegetable or animal raw materials in the production of these substances, so that substance mixtures having different alkyl chain lengths depending on the respective raw material are obtained.
  • agents according to the invention may contain further active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, for example nonionic polymers, for example vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers,
  • Thickeners such as agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya
  • Structural agents such as maleic acid and lactic acid, hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, such as soybean lecithin, egg lecithin and
  • Protein hydrolysates in particular elastin, collagen, keratin, milk protein, soy protein and
  • Solvents and mediators such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and
  • Diethylene glycol, fiber structure-improving agents in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose, quaternized amines such as methyl-1-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium methosulfate
  • Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole,
  • Light stabilizers in particular derivatized benzophenones, cinnamic acid derivatives and triazines,
  • Active ingredients such as allantoin, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acids and their salts, and bisabolol,
  • Bodying agents such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,
  • Fats and waxes such as spermaceti, beeswax, montan wax and paraffins,
  • Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, ⁇ -alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids, Swelling and penetration substances such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates, opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3 distearate, propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO 2 and air, antioxidants.
  • Swelling and penetration substances such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates, opacifiers such as latex, sty
  • compositions according to the invention preferably contain the components essential to the invention in a suitable aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic carrier.
  • a suitable aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic carrier for the purpose of hair coloring such carriers are, for example, creams, emulsions, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions, such as shampoos, foam aerosols or other preparations which are suitable for use on the hair.
  • aqueous-alcoholic solutions are to be understood as meaning aqueous solutions containing from 3 to 70% by weight of a C 1 -C 4 -alkanol, in particular ethanol or isopropanol.
  • the compositions of the invention may additionally contain other organic solvents, such as methoxybutanol, benzyl alcohol, ethyl diglycol or 1, 2-propylene glycol. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents.
  • a second subject of the present invention is a process for the dyeing conditioning of keratinic fibers, in which an agent according to the invention is applied to the fibers and rinsed off again after a contact time.
  • the exposure time of 1 to 60 minutes, preferably 1 to 15 minutes, in particular 1 to 5 minutes.
  • Crodarom Rock Crystal Quartz Extract (INCI name: Aqua (Water), Propylene Glycol, quartz) (Crodarom) Dow Corning 1403 Fluid ® silicone mixture (100% silicone content, of which about 13% Dimethiconol; INCI name: Dimethicone, Dimethiconol) (Dow Corning)
  • Polawax ® GP 200 INCI name: Cetearyl Alcohol, PEG 20 Stearate (Croda) Prestige ® Amethyst pearl luster pigment (INCI name: Mica, Cl 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Tin Oxide, Cl 77510 (ferric ferrocyanide), Cl (75470 Carmine )) (Eckart Cosmetic Colors)
  • Prestige ® Bright Mystic Violet pearlescent pigment (INCI name: Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Tin Oxide) (Eckart Cosmetic Colors)
  • Prestige ® Fire-Red pearlescent pigment (INCI name: Mica, CI 77491 (Iron Oxides))
  • Prestige ® Sun gold pearl luster pigment (INCI name: Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Cl 77491 (Iron Oxides)) (Eckart Cosmetic Colors)
  • Timiron ® Super gold pearl luster pigment (INCI name: Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxides)) (Merck)

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  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne des agents de coloration et de soin de fibres kératiniques, notamment de cheveux humains, contenant, dans un support cosmétiquement acceptable, au moins un colorant à fixation directe, au moins un pigment renfermant un constituant anorganique, et au moins un dérivé de guar cationique, lesdits agents ayant un pH de 5,0 à 8,0.
EP09780243A 2008-08-07 2009-07-07 Agents de conditionnement colorants Withdrawn EP2379051A2 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE200810036717 DE102008036717A1 (de) 2008-08-07 2008-08-07 Farbgebende Conditioner
PCT/EP2009/058585 WO2010015471A2 (fr) 2008-08-07 2009-07-07 Agents de conditionnement colorants

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EP2379051A2 true EP2379051A2 (fr) 2011-10-26

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WO2013190706A1 (fr) * 2012-06-21 2013-12-27 L'oreal Composition cosmétique à base d'une résine de silsesquioxane, d'une résine à base d'hydrocarbure, d'une huile d'hydrocarbure non volatile et d'une huile de silicone non volatile
FR3090372B1 (fr) * 2018-12-20 2021-07-02 Oreal Composition cosmétique comprenant au moins un polymère filmogène hydrophobe et au moins une silicone aminée

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DE3723354A1 (de) 1987-07-15 1989-01-26 Henkel Kgaa Sulfatierte hydroxy-mischether, verfahren zu ihrer herstellung und ihre verwendung
DE3725030A1 (de) 1987-07-29 1989-02-09 Henkel Kgaa Oberflaechenaktive hydroxysulfonate
DE3926344A1 (de) 1989-08-09 1991-02-28 Henkel Kgaa Verfahren zur herstellung von hellfarbigen oelsaeuresulfonaten
US5136093A (en) 1991-02-06 1992-08-04 Smith Ronald J Quaternized panthenol compounds and their use
DE4413686C2 (de) 1994-04-20 1996-10-24 Henkel Kgaa Kationische Zuckertenside, Verfahren zu ihrer Herstellung und deren Verwendung
DE19527978C2 (de) * 1995-07-31 1998-08-20 Kao Corp Mittel zum Färben und Tönen von menschlichen Haaren und Verwendung von Hydroxy-C¶2¶_C¶4¶-alkyl-Guar-Gum in solchen Mitteln
FR2785183B1 (fr) 1998-11-04 2002-04-05 Oreal COMPOSITION TINCTORIALE CONTENANT UN COLORANT DIRECT CATIONIQUE ET UNE PYRAZOLO-[1,5-a]- PYRIMIDINE A TITRE DE BASE D'OXYDATION, ET PROCEDES DE TEINTURE
US20050142084A1 (en) 2003-12-29 2005-06-30 Sanjoy Ganguly Cosmetic compositions containing nacreous pigments of large sized synthetic mica
DE102004001522A1 (de) * 2004-01-10 2005-08-04 Clariant Gmbh Haarfärbemittel
EP1925286A1 (fr) * 2006-11-24 2008-05-28 KPSS-Kao Professional Salon Services GmbH Composition de nettoyage
EP1925287A1 (fr) * 2006-11-24 2008-05-28 KPSS Kao Professional Salon Services GmbH Composition colorante

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WO2010015471A2 (fr) 2010-02-11
WO2010015471A3 (fr) 2011-09-09

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