EP2470160A2 - Utilisation d'au moins un acide nucléique pour influencer le processus de pigmentation naturel - Google Patents

Utilisation d'au moins un acide nucléique pour influencer le processus de pigmentation naturel

Info

Publication number
EP2470160A2
EP2470160A2 EP10730800A EP10730800A EP2470160A2 EP 2470160 A2 EP2470160 A2 EP 2470160A2 EP 10730800 A EP10730800 A EP 10730800A EP 10730800 A EP10730800 A EP 10730800A EP 2470160 A2 EP2470160 A2 EP 2470160A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
hair
nucleic acid
use according
skin
acid
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP10730800A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Melanie Giesen
Andreas Bock
Erik Schulze Zur Wiesche
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Original Assignee
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Henkel AG and Co KGaA filed Critical Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Publication of EP2470160A2 publication Critical patent/EP2470160A2/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/606—Nucleosides; Nucleotides; Nucleic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/04—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically tanning the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair

Definitions

  • the invention relates to the use of at least one nucleic acid containing at least 55% guanine nucleotide for influencing the natural pigmentation process of skin and / or skin appendages.
  • hair has a psychosocial function that should not be underestimated.
  • they serve as a means of interpersonal communication and are a sign of their own individuality. Changes, such as the graying, can lead to a massive impairment of the self-confidence of the person concerned.
  • Pigmentation in the hair follicle is controlled by a defined complex set of molecular signals. Since melanogenesis in gray follicles is obviously influenced, it can be assumed that parts of this network are modified in the gray follicle. A sequelae is the reduction of melanin synthesis, which leads to the graying of the follicle.
  • the complex set of molecular signals affecting melanogenesis includes, among others, the expression of MCR1 (melanocortin receptor 1), gp100 and ckit. MCR1 and ckit are receptors that relay key melanogenesis signals through the binding of their ligands alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone and stem cell factor to the cell interior.
  • GpIOO is a protein of the melanosome membrane and also regulates other melanogno-relevant proteins. Since these parameters are of essential importance in hair follicle pigmentation, it is advantageous to influence these parameters if the application of a test formulation is intended to maintain or reactivate melanin synthesis in the hair follicle cells. Maintaining the pigmentation and thus the youthfulness of the hair through suitable formulations of active ingredients is a challenge for cosmetic research.
  • the object of the present invention is therefore to provide active compounds or active agent combinations and compositions containing them, which are suitable for influencing the natural pigmentation process, in particular in the hair or hair follicle, without the described disadvantages of the Known prior art methods for influencing hair color or
  • the object is achieved by the use of at least one nucleic acid with a
  • Another object of the present invention is the use of at least one
  • Nucleic acid containing at least 55% guanine nucleotide for influencing the natural pigmentation process of skin and / or skin appendages are provided.
  • influencing the natural pigmentation process means the positive or negative influence on the natural one
  • Coloring / coloring and / or pigmentation of the skin and / or skin appendages in particular the stimulation or the partial or complete inhibition of the natural, i. biological pigmentation process in skin and / or skin appendages, in particular
  • skin is particularly preferably to be understood as meaning the skin without mucous membrane. Very particularly preferred is the term
  • Hair or hair follicles preferably body hair, beard hair and head hair, very particularly preferably beard hair and head hair, very particularly preferably hair on the head or the corresponding hair follicles.
  • Pigmentation process the positive or negative influence understood at least a partial step of the natural pigmentation process. This influence affects in particular the
  • Gene regulation i. the regulation at the expression level
  • enzyme regulation i. the regulation of the expression level
  • MCR1 melanocortin receptor 1
  • Enzyme level includes.
  • influencing the positive influence preferably the positive regulation (upregulation or activation or
  • Stimulation or increase which leads to a stimulation of the natural, biological Pigmentation process leads.
  • stimulation of melanogenesis in the human hair follicle especially the hair of the head (the hair follicles located on the scalp / head).
  • the pigmentation process in particular the melanogenesis, the skin and the skin appendages, preferably the hair or the hair follicle
  • the natural pigmentation process in particular melanogenesis
  • the pigmentation process, preferably the melanogenesis, of the human hair or of the human hair follicle is influenced.
  • the stimulation, enhancement, stimulation or improvement of the melanin synthesis in the melanocytes is particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • This is achieved, for example, by increasing the gene expression of signal molecules such as MCR1 (melanocortin receptor 1), gp100 and ckit.
  • the influence, preferably stimulation, of the melanogenesis is achieved by the use according to the invention.
  • melanogenesis is stimulated in the hair or hair follicles of the hairy scalp and / or the beard, in particular in humans.
  • the stimulation of the pigmentation means in particular, the improvement, enhancement and / or stimulation of the transport of the melanosomes into the keratinocytes surrounding the hair follicle, and furthermore the pigmentation of the individual hair perceptible with the eye or correspondingly suitable measuring methods, a selection of hairs , in particular an area of hairy skin, in particular the scalp, or of the entire head and / or whisker.
  • At least one nucleic acid containing at least 55% guanine nucleotide is suitable for stimulating or improving the pigmentation of the hair.
  • the use according to the invention prevents, preferably substantially prevents, and / or reduces hair graying, in particular of human hair.
  • hair graying is understood as meaning both the hair graying which is visually discernible by the mixture of white and pigmented hair and the pigment dilution in a single hair, that is to say the graying of a single hair.
  • a prevention of hair graying takes place especially in hair not grayed, a reduction in hair graying can take place both in already grayed as well as hair not yet graying.
  • hair follicles in which melanogenesis is not, no longer or not fully functional or disturbed or reduced are re-stimulated / stimulated to melanogenesis, while in non-gray hairs / hair follicles a disorder, Reduction or downregulation of melanogenesis does not occur at all or only to a lesser extent.
  • hair that has already been grayed out is repigmented by the use according to the invention of at least one nucleic acid containing at least 55% guanine nucleotide.
  • the use according to the invention is a cosmetic use which is non-therapeutic.
  • Aging process especially non-pathological directed hair graying is a purely cosmetic use, which is not a treatment and / or prophylaxis of a disease and thus non-therapeutic.
  • the use according to the invention is topical, i. by applying to the skin and / or skin appendages, in particular the face and / or
  • hair that has already been grayed out is repigmented by the use according to the invention of at least at least one nucleic acid containing at least 55% guanine nucleotide.
  • Nucleic acid containing at least 55% guanine nucleotide is able to synergize the natural pigmentation process, especially in the hair or hair follicle
  • the combination according to the invention induced both gene expression of MCR-1 and that of ckit and gp100 in a synergistic manner. In addition, a synergistic increase in melanin synthesis was observed.
  • Means can thus the natural pigmentation process of skin and / or
  • Affected skin appendages in particular stimulated.
  • this can be used to influence, in particular stimulate, the natural pigmentation process of the hair, the hair follicle or in the hair follicle.
  • the agents used in the invention are suitable, the
  • Pigmentation of the hair stimulate and / or improve the melanogenesis, especially in the
  • Hair follicles to prevent and / or reduce hair graying, as well as graying
  • Nucleic acids in the sense of the present invention are molecules that consist of several nucleotides.
  • One nucleotide is composed of three components: a phosphoric acid
  • nucleic acid is to be understood as meaning single-stranded or double-stranded nucleic acid, which may be of natural or synthetic origin. It can also be hydrolyzed, partially hydrolyzed or denatured.
  • the nucleic acid is selected from synthetic nucleic acids, nucleic acids of eukaryotic origin, such as nucleic acids from fish roes or wheat germs and nucleic acids of bacterial origin, in particular from nucleic acids from Escherichia coli and Clostridium perfringens.
  • nucleic acids used according to the invention are those which are selected from DNA and RNA, in particular low molecular weight bacterial DNA, low molecular weight eukaryotic DNA. Very particular preference is given to nucleic acids from a single-stranded DNA. Mixtures of two or more nucleic acids can also be used according to the invention.
  • the nucleic acid has a content of at least 55% guanine nucleotide in the nucleic acid sequence. The percentages are based on the frequency of the number of guanine nucleotides relative to the total number of nucleotides in the entire nucleic acid.
  • the nucleic acid in particular 65%, preferably at least 75%, more preferably at least 80%, more preferably at least 85%, most preferably at least 90%, most preferably at least 95% guanine nucleotide in the nucleic acid sequence.
  • Nucleic acids which can be used according to the invention have a chain length of 4 to 100, in particular 7 to 50, preferably 8 to 30, preferably 10 to 25 and very particularly preferably 12 to 22 nucleotides.
  • the at least one nucleic acid has a sequence of at least 4, preferably at least 5, more preferably at least 6, most preferably at least 7 or more guanine nucleotides.
  • the at least one nucleic acid which is suitable according to the invention contains several guanine (G) nucleotides in succession.
  • G guanine
  • the nucleic acid sequence suitable according to the invention comprises several, at least 2 (> 2), preferably at least 3 (> 3), in particular at least 4 (> 4), very particularly preferably at least 5 or more (> 5), in particular preferably 6 (> 6) most preferably contains at least 7 (> 7) identical nucleotides in succession.
  • the nucleic acid is a G homopolymer, ie the nucleic acid has only guanine nucleotides.
  • the content of guanine nucleotides in the nucleic acid sequence is accordingly 100%.
  • G homopolymers having a chain length of 8 to 30, in particular 10 to 25, very particularly 12 to 20 guanine nucleotides.
  • Very particularly preferred nucleotides are the following nucleotides having the above-mentioned preferred weight percentages in an agent used according to the invention: at least one 12-G homopolymer, at least one 13-G homopolymer, at least one 14-G homopolymer, at least one 15-G homopolymer , at least one 16G homopolymer, at least one 17G homopolymer, at least one 18G homopolymer, at least one 19G Homopolymer, at least one 20G homopolymer, at least one 21G homopolymer and at least one 22G homopolymer. These homopolymers can be linked to phosphodiester bonds and / or phosphorothioate bonds.
  • a mixture of two or more nucleic acids which is preferably to be used according to the invention must contain at least one nucleic acid (as described above which is rich in nucleic acids (having a G content of at least 65% and higher) which is preferred according to the invention
  • Nucleic acids may be different from the preferred nucleic acids according to the invention.
  • the nucleobases of the at least one nucleic acid used according to the invention may be methylated or unmethylated.
  • nucleic acids which can be used according to the invention can be chemically modified completely (all nucleotides) or partially (only a few nucleotides) in a manner known to the person skilled in the art.
  • the nucleic acid according to the invention preferably has at least one, preferably 2 or more, or completely phosphorothioate linkages.
  • Particularly preferred according to the invention are phosphorus diesters, phosphorothioate phosphodiester mixmers or phosphorothioates.
  • the at least one nucleic acid containing at least 55% guanine nucleotide is used in a cosmetic composition containing the at least one nucleic acid containing at least 55% guanine nucleotide in a total amount of 0.0000001-5 wt .-%, preferably 0.000001 - 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.00001 - 0.1 wt .-%, most preferably 0.00005 - 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition , contains.
  • the cosmetic agents used according to the invention show improved care effects on the skin and on the hair. Especially on keratinic fibers, the positive effects are clearly pronounced, so that preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are hair treatment agents.
  • Hair treatment compositions for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, hair dyes, bleaching agents, hair shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hairsprays, hair conditioners, hair treatments, hair wraps, hair tonics, perming solutions, hair coloring shampoos, hair dyes, hair fixatives, hair dressings, hair styling preparations, hair waving Lotions, mousses, hair gels, hair waxes or combinations thereof.
  • Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions are characterized in that they are formulated as shampoo, hair tonics, hair conditioner, hair conditioner, hair foam, hair setting agent, hair spray, hair gel and / or hair dyeing agent. In view of the fact that the consumer often shies away from the use of several different means and / or several application steps for reasons of time and convenience, these means are particularly advantageous.
  • At least one hair conditioning agent selected from cationic polymers, cationic surfactants, silicones and / or vegetable oils is contained.
  • agents to be used according to the invention may contain other active ingredients and adjuvants. These are described below.
  • the agents used according to the invention preferably additionally comprise at least one emulsifier or a surfactant.
  • the compositions to be used according to the invention may contain surfactants, in particular cationic surfactants.
  • surfactants for surfactant-containing agents to be used according to the invention, protection is desired or protection may be desired;
  • Surfactants, in particular cationic surfactants contribute to the technical aim of the invention and thus to the solution of the technical problem underlying the application according to the invention.
  • Preferred surfactants, the amounts in which they are contained in compositions according to the invention are disclosed in priority document DE 102009044972 on pages 8 to 18, the features mentioned there belong clearly implicitly to the description of the invention contained in the filed application and thus to the disclosure content of this application ,
  • Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as cationic care substance - based on their weight - 0.05 to 7.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.2 to 3, 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 2.5 wt .-% cationic (s) surfactant (s) from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds and / or the esterquats and / or the amidoamines containing preferred cationic (s)
  • Surfactant (s) is / are selected from alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides having preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and / or dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides having preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and / or trialkylmethylammonium chlorides having preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and / or cetyltrimethylammonium chlor
  • the agents used according to the invention may contain from 0.01 to 10% by weight of at least one polymer from the group of cationic and / or amphoteric polymers.
  • polymer-containing agents to be used according to the invention protection is desired or protection can be desired;
  • Polymers, in particular cationic polymers contribute to the technical aim of the invention and thus to the solution of the technical problem underlying the application according to the invention.
  • Preferred polymers, the amounts in which they are contained in compositions to be used according to the invention, are disclosed in priority document DE 102009044972 on pages 18 to 27, the features mentioned there belong clearly implicitly to the description of the invention contained in the filed application and thus to the disclosure content this application.
  • vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors are vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors. These are described below:
  • vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A 1 ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A 2 ).
  • the ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol.
  • vitamin A component according to the invention for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration.
  • the agents used according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in quantities of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.
  • the vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others, vitamin B 1 (thiamine), vitamin B 2 (riboflavin), vitamin B 3 .
  • the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed.
  • Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide which is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • vitamin B 5 pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone. Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group.
  • panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols.
  • Individual representatives are, for example, the panthenol triacetate, the panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate and also the cationic panthenol derivatives disclosed in WO 92/13829.
  • the said compounds of the vitamin B 5 type are preferably contained in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • Vitamin B 6 pyridoxine, pyridoxamine and pyridoxal
  • Vitamin C ascorbic acid
  • Vitamin C is used in the compositions according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent.
  • Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred.
  • the use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.
  • Vitamin E tocopherols, especially ⁇ -tocopherol).
  • Vitamin F is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
  • Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-c /] -imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has meanwhile prevailed.
  • Biotin is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.0001 to 1, 0 wt .-%, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01 wt .-%.
  • hair treatment compositions according to the invention which additionally contain as care substance - based on its weight - 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.2 to 4 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.25 to 3.5 wt .-% , more preferably 0.5 to 3 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 2.5 wt .-% vitamins and / or pro-vitamins and / or vitamin precursors containing, preferably, the groups A, B, C, E, Panthenol (( ⁇ ) -2,4-dihydroxy- ⁇ / - (3-hydroxypropyl) -3,3-dimethyl-butyramide, provitamin B 5 ) and / or pantothenic acid (vitamin B 3 , Vitamin B 5 ) and / or niacin, niacinamide or nicotinamide (vitamin B 3 ) and / or L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and / or thi
  • Particularly preferred hair treatment agents used according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as care substance - based on their weight - 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt.
  • the agents used according to the invention may also contain plastoquinones (polyprenylated 2,3-dimethylbenzoquinone derivatives).
  • preferred agents used in the invention are characterized by being 0.0002 to 4% by weight, preferably 0.0005 to 3% by weight, more preferably 0.001 to 2% by weight, more preferably 0.0015 to 1 and In particular, 0.002 to 0.5 wt .-% of at least one plastoquinone.
  • Particularly preferred is a combination of at least one homo G polymer having 12 to 25 nucleotides with coenzyme Q10, particularly preferred is the combination of a 12 G homopolymer (guanine homopolymer with 12 nucleotides) and coenzyme Q10, or a 20 G homopolymer with coenzyme Q 10.
  • the agents used according to the invention may with particular preference contain one or more amino acids.
  • Amino acids which can be used particularly preferably according to the invention are selected from the group consisting of glycine, alanine, VaNn, leucine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, tryptophan, proline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine, glutamine, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, lysine, arginine, histidine, ⁇ Alanine, 4-aminobutyric acid (GABA), betaine, L-cystine (L-Cyss), L-citrulline, L-theanine, 3 ', 4'-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine (L-dopa), 5'-hydroxy -L-tryptophan, L-homocysteine, S-methyl-L-methionine, S-allyl-L-L-
  • Preferred agents used according to the invention comprise one or more amino acids in narrower quantitative ranges.
  • preferred hair treatment compositions are characterized in that they as care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.02 to 2.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 1, 5 % By weight, more preferably 0.075 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 0.25 wt .-% amino acid (s), preferably from the group of glycine and / or alanine and / or valine and / or lysine and / or leucine and / or threonine.
  • Particularly preferred is a combination of a 12G homopolymer with glycine, a 12G homopolymer with alanine, a 12G homopolymer with VaNn, a 12G homopolymer with lysine, a 12G homopolymer with leucine, a 12G homopolymer. Homopolymer with threonine. Further particularly preferred are combinations of a 20 G homopolymer with glycine, a 20 G homopolymer with alanine, a 20 G homopolymer with valine, a 20 G homopolymer with lysine, a 20 G homopolymer with leucine, a 20 G Homopolymer with threonine.
  • Agents preferred according to the invention contain as care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 0.025 to 12.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0.5 to 5% by weight of at least one 2-furanone derivative of the formula (Fur I) and / or of the formula (Fur-II)
  • preferred hair-treatment compositions contain as care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 0.025 to 12.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0.5 to 5% by weight of taurine (2-aminoethanesulfonic acid).
  • compositions used according to the invention may contain, in addition to the optional further ingredients, other substances which prevent, alleviate or cure hair loss.
  • a content of hair root stabilizing agents is advantageous.
  • Propecia (finasteride) is currently the only preparation that is approved worldwide and has been proven in many studies to be effective and tolerable. Propecia causes less DHT to form from testosterone.
  • Minoxidil is probably the oldest proven hair restorer with or without supplemental additives. For the treatment of hair loss, it may only be used for external application.
  • hair tonic with up to 2% minoxidil content is available without prescription.
  • spironolactone in the form of hair tonic and in combination with minoxidil can be used for external application.
  • Spironolactone acts as an androgen receptor blocker, ie. the binding of DHT to the hair follicles is prevented.
  • cosmetic agents according to the invention are preferred which additionally contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 5% by weight of hair root stabilizing substances, in particular minoxidil and / or finasteride and / or ketoconazole.
  • a preferred form of preparation of the hair treatment agent according to the invention takes place in the form of hair tonics or hair lotions. These preferably contain at least one monohydric alcohol, at least one nucleic acid containing at least 55% guanine nucleotide, optionally containing a gelling agent and optionally at least one particular care enhancer.
  • Another object of the present invention is a hair treatment composition containing
  • nucleotide number from 10 to 25, particularly preferred is the combination with 12 G
  • compositions used according to the invention contain from 0.1 to 90% by weight of at least one monohydric alcohol from the group of ethanol, n-propanol, isoporopanol, n-butanol. Among these, ethanol and / or isopropanol are particularly preferred.
  • Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.5 to 85% by weight, preferably from 1 to 80% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 75
  • Wt .-% more preferably 10 to 70 wt .-% and in particular 25 to 60 wt .-% ethanol and / or
  • hair treatment agents contain only ethanol.
  • hair treatment compositions according to the invention which - based on their weight - 5 to 80 wt .-%, preferably 7.5 to 70 wt .-%, particularly preferably 10 to 60 wt .-%, more preferably 20 to 55 wt .-% and in particular 25 to 50 wt .-% ethanol, more preferably.
  • the agents used according to the invention may additionally contain a gelling agent.
  • a gelling agent By using these gelling agents, the adhesion of the agents to the hair can be improved and the application can be made more pleasant.
  • Hair-treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred here which, based on their weight, contain 0.15 to 9% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.25 to 7% by weight, more preferably 0, From 3 to 6% by weight and in particular from 0.4 to 5% by weight of at least one gelling agent from the groups of silicic acids and / or layered silicates and / or organophosphorus silicates and / or metal soaps and / or hardened castor oil and / or modified fatty derivatives and / or polyamides and / or hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC) and / or carboxymethylcellulose (CMC) and / or hydroxypropylmethylcellulose (HPMC) and / or hydroxypropylcellulose (HPC) and / or
  • the agents used according to the invention in particular also the hair lotions and / or hair tonics according to the invention, may contain emulsifiers (F).
  • the agents used according to the invention may contain emulsifiers (F). Protection is sought or protection can be sought for emulsifier-containing agents to be used in the present invention; Emulsifiers contribute to the technical aim of the invention and thus to the solution of the technical problem underlying the application according to the invention.
  • emulsifiers the amounts in which they are contained in compositions according to the invention are disclosed in the priority document DE 102009044972 on pages 42 to 43, the features mentioned there are clearly implicit in describing the invention contained in the filed application and thus to the disclosure of this application ,
  • an agent according to the invention may also contain UV filters (I).
  • the UV filters to be used according to the invention are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to their structure and their physical properties. On the contrary, all UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector and whose absorption maximum lies in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC ( ⁇ 280 nm) range are suitable. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.
  • the UV filters used according to the invention can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.
  • UV filters which can be used according to the invention are 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methylsulfate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl salicylate (homosalates), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone (benzophenone-3; Uvinul ® M 40, Uvasorb MET ®, ® Neo Heliopan BB, Eusolex ® 4360), 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts ( Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid; Parsol ® HS; Neo Heliopan Hydro ®), 3,3 '- (1, 4-phenylenedimethylene) bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo [2.2.1] hept-1- yl-methane sulfonic acid) and salts thereof, 1- (4-tert-butyl
  • Methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt, 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 3-benzylidene-camphor, 4-Isopropylbenzyl salicylate, 2,4,6-trianilino (p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxy) -1, 3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N - ⁇ (2 and 4) - [2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl] benzyl ⁇ -acrylamide.
  • water-insoluble UV filters are those which dissolve in water at not more than 1% by weight, in particular not more than 0.1% by weight, at 20 ° C. Furthermore, these compounds should be soluble in the usual cosmetic oil components at room temperature to at least 0.1, in particular at least 1 wt .-%). The use of water-insoluble UV filters may therefore be preferred according to the invention.
  • UV filters which have a cationic group, in particular a quaternary ammonium group.
  • UV filters have the general structure U - Q.
  • the structural part U stands for a UV-absorbing group.
  • This group can in principle be derived from the known UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector, in which a group, generally a hydrogen atom, of the UV filter is replaced by a cationic group Q, in particular having a quaternary amino function ,
  • Compounds from which the structural part U can be derived are, for example, substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.
  • Structural parts U which are derived from cinnamic acid amide or from N, N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid amide are preferred according to the invention.
  • the structural parts U can in principle be selected so that the absorption maximum of the UV filters can be both in the UVA (315-400 nm) and in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC ( ⁇ 280 nm) range.
  • UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range are particularly preferred.
  • the structural part U also as a function of structural part Q, is preferably selected so that the molar extinction coefficient of the UV filter at the absorption maximum is above 15,000, in particular above 20,000.
  • the structural part Q preferably contains, as a cationic group, a quaternary ammonium group.
  • This quaternary ammonium group can in principle be connected directly to the structural part U, so that the structural part U represents one of the four substituents of the positively charged nitrogen atom.
  • one of the four substituents on the positively charged nitrogen atom is a group, especially an alkylene group of 2 to 6 carbon atoms, which functions as a compound between the structural portion U and the positively charged nitrogen atom.
  • the group Q has the general structure - (CH 2 ) ⁇ -N + R 1 R 2 R 3 X " , in which x is an integer from 1 to 4, R 1 and R 2 independently of one another represent
  • x preferably represents the number 3
  • Physiologically acceptable anions are, for example, inorganic anions such as halides, in particular chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.
  • inorganic anions such as halides, in particular chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.
  • UV filters with cationic groups are the commercially available compounds cinnamic acid-trimethylammonium chloride (lncroquat ® UV-283) and dodecyl tosylate (Escalol ® HP 610).
  • the teaching of the invention also includes the use of a combination of several UV filters.
  • the combination of at least one water-insoluble UV filter with at least one UV filter having a cationic group is preferred.
  • the UV filters (I) are usually used in amounts of 0.1-5% by weight in the compositions according to the invention. , based on the total mean. Levels of 0.4-2.5 wt .-% are preferred.
  • the abovementioned UV filters are combined with at least one 12 G homopolymer or 20 G homopolymer.
  • the agents used in the invention may further contain a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J).
  • a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives Preference is given to the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion carries, in addition to hydrogen, one to three C 1 - to C 4 -alkyl groups.
  • the sodium salt is most preferred.
  • the amounts used in the compositions according to the invention are preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total composition, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 5, and in particular from 0.1 to 3,% by weight.
  • compositions used according to the invention may also contain plant extracts (L).
  • plant extracts usually these extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.
  • extracts of green tea, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi and melon are especially suitable for the use according to the invention.
  • alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used as extraction agent for the preparation of said plant extracts water.
  • the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as sole extractant and in admixture with water, are preferred.
  • Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • the plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture. Furthermore, it may be preferable to use mixtures of several, in particular two, different plant extracts in the compositions used according to the invention.
  • the agents used according to the invention contain penetration aids and / or swelling agents (M).
  • M penetration aids and / or swelling agents
  • M include, for example, urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, Diols and triols, and in particular 1, 2-diols and 1, 3-diols such as 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-dodecanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, 1 , 6-hexanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1,
  • Another object of the present invention is a method for influencing the natural pigmentation process of the skin and / or skin appendages, in particular stimulation of the natural pigmentation process, in particular the melanogenesis and / or pigmentation of the hair, to prevent and / or reduce the Haarergrauung and / or for the repigmentation of grayed hair, characterized in that at least one nucleic acid containing at least 55% guanine nucleotide, topically contacted with hair and / or skin.
  • the ligands involved in melanogenesis such as SCF or alpha-MSH (melanocyte stimulating hormone alpha) bind to various receptors, by which the corresponding signal is transmitted to the cell interior.
  • the receptor for SCF is ckit
  • the receptor for alpha-MSH is MCR-1 (melanocortin receptor 1).
  • MCR-1 melanocortin receptor 1
  • GpIOO is a protein that occurs in the membrane of melanosomes and stabilizes them. Since melanin is increasingly produced in the cells after the application of substances that have a positive influence on melanogenesis, there is an increase in the number of melanosomes required for transport.
  • a substance that induces gene expression of gp100 is therefore a pigment stimulating agent.
  • Particularly preferred substances which stimulate the natural pigmentation process of skin and / or skin appendages, in particular hair or hair follicles, are those which both cause gene expression of MCR-1 and / or ckit and also induce gene expression of gp100.
  • the determination of the extent of the change in gene expression after administration of such substances to suitable cells / cell systems / tissue cultures can provide information about the effectiveness of the active ingredient.
  • RNA from the organotypic cell cultures is first isolated with the aid of the RNeasy Mini Kit from Qiagen and transcribed into cDNA by means of reverse transcription.
  • the formation of the PCR products is detected online via a fluorescence signal.
  • the fluorescence signal is proportional to the amount of the PCR product formed. The stronger the expression of a particular gene, the greater the amount of PCR product produced and the higher the fluorescence signal.
  • the untreated control is set equal to 1 and the expression of the genes to be determined referred to (x-fold expression). Values greater than or equal to 1.8 times the expression or less than or equal to 0.5 times the expression of the untreated control are classified as significantly differentially expressed. Values greater than or equal to 1.5-fold expression or less than or equal to 0.7-fold expression of the untreated control are considered to tend to be differentially expressed.
  • gp100 In addition to the induction of gene expression, translation into the corresponding proteins is also important for influencing cellular mechanisms.
  • the expression of gp100 was therefore additionally detected at the protein level by Western Blot technique.
  • the protein expression of gp100 could be induced compared to the untreated control.
  • Melanin is a dye that is produced and stored in the melanosomes of melanocytes. Melanin gives the hair its actual color, whereby the
  • Coloring is caused by a mixture of two types of melanin, eu- and pheomelanin.
  • Tyrosine by the enzyme tyrosinase in L-dihydroxyphenylalanine (L-DOPA) and then implemented via several intermediate steps in the different melanin pigments.
  • L-DOPA L-dihydroxyphenylalanine
  • Hair follicle melanocytes is particularly suitable to influence the natural pigmentation process of the skin and / or skin appendages, prevent hair graying and / or stimulate pigmentation.
  • Table 3 Melanin content in isolated hair follicles after treatment with a 12G nucleic acid.
  • the melanin content of the cultured hair follicles could be easily induced compared to the untreated control

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Abstract

L'invention concerne l'utilisation d'au moins un acide nucléique ayant une teneur en nucléotides à guanine d'au moins 55 % pour influencer le processus de pigmentation naturel de la peau et/ou des phanères.
EP10730800A 2009-07-23 2010-07-13 Utilisation d'au moins un acide nucléique pour influencer le processus de pigmentation naturel Withdrawn EP2470160A2 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102009027955 2009-07-23
DE102009044972A DE102009044972A1 (de) 2009-07-23 2009-09-24 Verwendung von mindestens einer Nukleinsäure zur Beeinflussung des natürlichen Pigmentierungsprozesses
PCT/EP2010/060025 WO2011009756A2 (fr) 2009-07-23 2010-07-13 Utilisation d'au moins un acide nucléique pour influencer le processus de pigmentation naturel

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EP2470160A2 true EP2470160A2 (fr) 2012-07-04

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US (1) US20120115805A1 (fr)
EP (1) EP2470160A2 (fr)
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DE102009044972A1 (de) 2009-07-23 2011-01-27 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Verwendung von mindestens einer Nukleinsäure zur Beeinflussung des natürlichen Pigmentierungsprozesses

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JPS6245527A (ja) * 1985-08-21 1987-02-27 Shiseido Co Ltd 白髪予防、治療剤
DE3725030A1 (de) 1987-07-29 1989-02-09 Henkel Kgaa Oberflaechenaktive hydroxysulfonate
US5136093A (en) 1991-02-06 1992-08-04 Smith Ronald J Quaternized panthenol compounds and their use
US5470577A (en) * 1993-07-07 1995-11-28 Trustees Of Boston University Stimulation of tanning by DNA fragments or single-stranded DNA
DE4413686C2 (de) 1994-04-20 1996-10-24 Henkel Kgaa Kationische Zuckertenside, Verfahren zu ihrer Herstellung und deren Verwendung
US20050208010A1 (en) * 2002-07-10 2005-09-22 L'oreal Genes from Chromosome 3, 5 and 11 involved in premature canities
DE202005001952U1 (de) * 2005-02-06 2006-08-31 Phenion Gmbh & Co. Kg Kosmetische oder pharmazeutische Zubereitungen enthaltend Nukleinsäuren, die zur Ausbildung von stem-loop-Sekundärstrukturen geeignete Sequenzen umfassen
DE102007020554A1 (de) * 2007-04-27 2008-10-30 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Nukleinsäurehaltige kosmetische und/oder pharmazeutische Zubereitungen zur Behandlung epithelialen Deckgewebes
DE102009044972A1 (de) 2009-07-23 2011-01-27 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Verwendung von mindestens einer Nukleinsäure zur Beeinflussung des natürlichen Pigmentierungsprozesses

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US20120115805A1 (en) 2012-05-10

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