EP2497384B1 - Procédé et machine à coudre pour réaliser un produit semi-fini pour la fabrication d'une chaussure. - Google Patents

Procédé et machine à coudre pour réaliser un produit semi-fini pour la fabrication d'une chaussure. Download PDF

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Publication number
EP2497384B1
EP2497384B1 EP20120158280 EP12158280A EP2497384B1 EP 2497384 B1 EP2497384 B1 EP 2497384B1 EP 20120158280 EP20120158280 EP 20120158280 EP 12158280 A EP12158280 A EP 12158280A EP 2497384 B1 EP2497384 B1 EP 2497384B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
sewing
insole
welt
underfoot
needle
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EP20120158280
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German (de)
English (en)
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EP2497384A1 (fr
Inventor
Massimo Centanni Fiorini
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Ciucani Mocassino Machinery SRL
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Ciucani Mocassino Machinery SRL
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B9/00—Footwear characterised by the assembling of the individual parts
    • A43B9/04—Welted footwear
    • A43B9/06—Welted footwear stitched or nailed through
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05B—SEWING
    • D05B15/00—Machines for sewing leather goods
    • D05B15/02—Shoe sewing machines
    • D05B15/06—Welt sewing machines

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the technical sector relating to the realisation of shoes, with particular reference to those shoes known as the GOODYEAR type.
  • the GOODYEAR method is made up of operating steps that are almost all manually performed by highly-specialised craftsmen, and long times are required for them, involving high costs.
  • the GOODYEAR method comprises using an underfoot insole made of a flexible material to a surface of which, destined to be facing downwards, a sort of rim is applied which follows the perimeter profile of the underfoot insole, at a suitable distance from the edge.
  • the insole is fixed using nails to a form on which an open upper is also keyed and fixed; the flap of the upper is gripped using pliers, pulled towards the insole and progressively joined to the external wall of the rim using glue and staples in such a way that at the end the upper is stretched on the form and solidly constrained to the underfoot insole.
  • the upper is initially cut to a larger dimension, and after joining with the underfoot insole is trimmed so that the flap thereof is flush with the rim.
  • a welt is fixed externally of the flap of the upper joined to the rim, using a stitching that involves the flap and the rim.
  • the stitching can be done by hand, using an awl, or by machine of known type with one thread only, realising a chain stitch.
  • a soft and transpiring insert is positioned and glued, for example made of cork and/or latex.
  • glue is applied in the upper surface, and a similar glue is applied to the inner surface of the welt and the insert.
  • the bottom is glued to the assembly of the upper-insole-welt-insert, still on the form.
  • peripheral gluing between the welt and the bottom is completed, for example with the aid of pressing machines having counter-rotating rollers.
  • the join between the bottom and the welt is stabilised by a ring stitching that surrounds the whole shoe, for example using known-type sewing machines.
  • the GOODYEAR method is in practice sub-divided into two operating groups, with the first being aimed at obtaining a semi-finished workpiece constituted by the joining of the upper, underfoot insole and welt, while the second relates to the application of the bottom to the workpiece and the finishing of the shoe.
  • the second group of operations exhibits a lower degree of difficulty that falls within the capabilities of an average operator.
  • the majority of the production costs for a GOODYEAR shoe therefore relate to the performing of the first group of operations and the correlated need to contemporaneously perform operations of a plurality of shoes, i.e. a sufficient number of operators and machines with adequate spaces and an adequate number of forms.
  • One of the advantages that make the GOODYEAR shoes especially appreciated by the clientele relates to the great comfort thereof, as the plantar rest is soft and self-modelling and the foot cannot come into contact with the stitching seams that join the upper to the underfoot insole.
  • the applicant of the present application produces and markets machines for sewing with a curved needle destined for sewing elements, for example uppers, to relative bottoms, for realising shoes.
  • the curved needle is borne at the free end of an arm, keyed radially on a shaft arranged longitudinally in the head of the machine.
  • the shaft is destined to be activated in alternating oscillating motion, such as to move the needle between two end positions, along a curved trajectory that is concentric to the degree of curvature of the needle itself.
  • the machine is provided with suitable support and guide means, suitable for defining a correct position of both the upper and the bottom during the stitching.
  • the needle In the outward oscillation the needle passes first through the lower edge of the upper, then enters into a rotary hook device, commonly known as the crotchet, which cooperates with the needle such as to form the stitching point which is of the type having two knotted threads.
  • a rotary hook device commonly known as the crotchet
  • a retaining foot is activated, which presses the bottom in the opposite direction to the advancing of the needle, such as to withstand the thrust of the said needle.
  • the longitudinal shaft is translated axially, in synchrony with the crotchet, by an amount that is equal to a predetermined sewing step, determining the advancing of the material to be sewn.
  • the needle return oscillation is commanded, which causes disengagement of the material and enables an opposite translation to be performed, of a same amount, of the shaft-needle-crotchet group in order to return them into the initial position.
  • Document US 1,612,940 discloses a method of manufacturing a welt shoe comprising the step of positioning a shoe upper in such a way it surrounds a wooden last, positioning an insole on the wooden last and then stitching a welt to the insole and the upper.
  • Document US 3,410,235 discloses a machine for attaching a welt to other parts of a Goodyear shoe, the machine having attaching, feeding and guiding devices, and start working operations after a last is predisposed in the machine by an operator.
  • the aim of the present invention is thus to provide a method and a sewing machine for realising a semi-finished workpiece to be used in the construction of a shoe, the semi-finished workpiece being constituted by the joining of an upper, an underfoot insole and a welt according to the GOODYEAR method, realised more simply, rapidly and economically with respect to the GOODYEAR method, the semi-finished workpiece being suitable for being subsequently used for a corresponding shoe of the GOODYEAR type.
  • a further aim of the invention consists in providing a method which enables obtaining the semi-finished workpiece with a single sewing operation performed by the sewing machine which carries out the method, without any requirement for the use of a form, nails and/or glue.
  • a still further aim of the invention relates to the desire to provide a method and a sewing machine such as to be usable for obtaining the semi-finished workpiece, an underfoot insole with a rim that is identical to the rim used in the known-type process, as mentioned in the preamble hereto.
  • a still further aim of the invention is to be able to use, in the realisation of the above-mentioned semi-finished workpiece, an upper cut without the perimeter portion destined to become trimmed waste, which is required in the prior art, such as to save precious leather.
  • the above aims are attained by means of a method for realising a semi-finished workpiece to be used in constructing a shoe, the semi-finished workpiece being of a type comprising: an underfoot insole provided on a side surface thereof with a perpendicular border, arranged in a closed loop and shaped such as to follow a perimeter profile of the underfoot insole, at an appropriate distance from an external limit thereof; an open upper; a welt having a linear development which is sufficient to form a ring around the upper; the method being characterised in that it comprises following steps:
  • the machine usable for actuating the above method is of a type comprising: a curved needle, borne at a free end of a lever activated in alternating oscillating motion such as to move the curved needle between two end positions along a curved trajectory that is concentric to a radius of curvature of the needle, the end positions respectively being retracted, in which it is external of the elements to be sewn, and advanced, in which it is destined to pass through the elements and enter a rotary hook device provided such as to cooperate with the curved needle in order to realise sewing stitches of a type having two knotted yarns; horizontal translating means for translating the curved needle and rotary hook device synchronically, with alternating motion, in runs of a size that is of a predetermined step, for each of the sewing stitches; the semi-finished work-piece being of a type comprising: an underfoot insole provided on a surface thereof with a perpendicular border, arranged in a closed loop and shaped such as to follow a perimeter profile of the underfoot in
  • the above-described method and machine enable fully attaining all the set aims, i.e. obtaining a semi-finished workpiece constituted by the joining of an upper, an insole and a welt, with the steps of the known GOODYEAR method, but in a much simpler and more rapid way that is consequently economical with respect thereto, while losing nothing in terms of quality and constructional accuracy, which is indeed improved.
  • the semi-finished workpiece obtained with the present invention is perfectly suitable, therefore, for subsequent use for a corresponding shoe of the GOODYEAR type, with the carrying out of remaining productive steps.
  • the original aspect of the method and machine actuating the method relates to the fact that the semi-finished workpiece is realised with a single sewing operation, without any required use of a form, nails and/or glue.
  • the workpiece 100 in a known way, comprises: an underfoot insole 101 provided on a side surface thereof with a perpendicular border 102, arranged in a closed loop and shaped such as to follow a perimeter profile of the underfoot insole 101, at an appropriate distance from an external limit thereof; an open upper 103; a welt 104 having a linear development which is sufficient to form a ring around the upper 103; the method being characterised in that it comprises following steps:
  • marking of at least a reference sign is provided in the underfoot insole 101 and a corresponding reference sign in the upper 103, to be performed before positioning of the underfoot insole 101 and the upper 103 in the sewing machine M.
  • a plurality of reference signs can be marked on both, indicating for example the centre of the toe and the heel, the beginning and the end of the curvature of the stitch and the heel and the start point of the stitching.
  • the development of the perimeter of the upper 103, before sewing, is greater than that of the insole 101; in the presence of this characteristic, according to the prior art, the skin of the upper 103 has to be curled in the area of the tip, such as to recover the greater development and to obtain, at the same time, the arching thereof.
  • upper 103 and 102 is provided for each stitch P which does not concern the area of the shoe tip, while there will be an advancement of the upper 103 that is increased by a predetermined amount compared to the advancement of the welt 104 and border 102, for each sewing stitch P inserted in the above-mentioned zone of the tip.
  • the sewing machine M used for the realization of the semi-finished workpiece 100 is preferably obtained starting from a known machine, produced by the same Applicant, of which mention was made in the introduction, and comprising:
  • the crotchet 5 and the longitudinal shaft bearing the lever 3 are translated axially in synchrony, by a width that is equal to a predetermined step of sewing P, determining the advancing of the sewing material.
  • a holding foot 2 is actuated, which presses the material in the opposite direction to the returning of the needle 4, thus facilitating the release thereof.
  • the sewing machine M is equipped to make it suitable for sewing together the welt 104, the upper 103 and the underfoot insole 101 and realise the semi-finished workpiece 100.
  • the machine M of to the invention is provided with a support 6, suitable for restingly supporting the insole 101 and vertically mobile between a lowered rest position and a raised work position, through the action of actuator organs, e.g. tyres, not shown.
  • a support 6 suitable for restingly supporting the insole 101 and vertically mobile between a lowered rest position and a raised work position, through the action of actuator organs, e.g. tyres, not shown.
  • the support 6 is constituted, in the example of the figures, by a shaped arm 60, pivoted with a practically vertical axis to a base, not shown, integral with the head 1.
  • the shaped arm 60 bears a wheel 61 at the top thereof, which is idle and has an axis that coincides with the oscillating axis of the arm 60 ( figure 3 ).
  • a turret body 7 is solidly constrained to the head 1, which body 7 inferiorly conforms an abutment 70, suitable for abuttingly intercepting the insole 101 restingly arranged on the wheel 61 of the support 6, when the support 6 is in the raised working position thereof.
  • the insole 101 is therefore loosely tightened slidably between the wheel 61 and the abutment 70, while the perpendicular border 102 is placed against it by the internal side thereof.
  • a horizontal slot 71 is formed in the abutment 70, which is destined to enable transit of the needle 4 and entry thereof into the crotchet 5, as well as the horizontal translation of the needle 4 in synchrony therewith ( figure 3 ).
  • the support 6 and abutment 70 therefore define, for the insole 101, a position such that the curved needle 4, in its oscillating movement, transversally interests the perpendicular border 102, from the outside towards the inside.
  • a substantially vertical separating and guiding wall is arranged at the side of the abutment 70, which wall is horizontally extended for a tract preceding the tract in which the needle 4 acts and destined to insert between the external side of the perpendicular border 102 and the perimeter edge 103B of the upper 103, with the upper arranged flanked and aligned to the border 102.
  • the separating and guiding wall 80 is profiled at the lower end of a slide, vertically slidable in a seating afforded in the body 7 of the abutment 70 and associated to actuator means 81 (visible only partially in figure 4 ) by means of a bracket 82.
  • the actuator means 81 constituted for example by a pneumatic jack, define two positions for the separating and guiding wall 80, respectively, a lowered operating position ( figures 3 , 4, 5 ) and a raised non-operative position (not shown).
  • the separating and guiding wall 80 facilitates the correct progress of the insole 101 and the upper 103 and also cooperates with a crinkling group 9, which will be more fully described herein below, suitable for operating on the upper.
  • the separating and guiding wall 80 is in a non-interfering position with respect to the semi-finished workpiece 100, to enable the realization of the final stitches P of the sewing ring seam C.
  • a U-shaped foot 90 is arranged externally of the separating and guiding wall 80, on a vertical plane practically perpendicular to the wall, fixed to a rod 91 belonging to the crinkling group 9.
  • the branch 90A of the U-shape that is closer to the separating and guiding wall 80 is destined to laterally contain the upper 103, which advances towards the sewing area, while the recess 90B of the U-shape forms a support and a guide for the welt 104 in input to the same sewing area, in which, as already specified, it must be arranged flanked to the outside of the upper 103 and perpendicular border 102, so that the upper limit of the profile thereof is aligned with the upper and border.
  • a height-adjustable foot is provided, removably fixed to the column 7 above the slot 71 and destined to define an upper abutment for the welt 104.
  • the U-shaped foot 90 is kept in a fixed position for models of upper 103 and insole 101 in which the development of the respective perimeters is the same and where, consequently, equal advancement is required of the welt 104, upper 103 and border 102 for each stitch P of the ring sewn seam C.
  • the crinkling group 9 is activatable on command of the operator and is destined to increase the advancement of the upper sole 103 with respect to the insole 101 and the welt 104.
  • the U-shaped foot 90 "U” is pushed transversally to the upper 103 in phase relation with the realization of each sewn stitch P up to pressing on the surface of the upper with the corresponding branch 90A, which is provided with a tooth 90D (see in particular figure 3A ), destined to increase the friction.
  • the foot 90 is then, is translated in the same advancement direction as given by the needle-crotchet group for the transport of the material, in order to obtain the predetermined increment in advancement, and then is newly distanced from the upper 103 when the needle 4 is engaged therein, and translated in the opposite direction to repeat the cycle.
  • the support 6 is lowered to allow the insole 101 to be introduced, with the perpendicular border 102 facing upwards and inserted between the abutment 70 and the separating and guiding wall 80; then the support 6 is raised into the working position to hold it.
  • the upper 103 is then positioned, with the perimeter edge 103B thereof facing up and flanked to the perpendicular border 102, at least in the sewing area.
  • the end of the welt 104 is also arranged at the position of the needle 4, the welt 104 being positioned as previously described with respect to the upper 103 and the border 102, which will be pierced in order as each of the stitches P ( figure 6 ) is sewn.
  • the operator starts the machine M and commences sewing, taking care to accompany the advancement of the insole 101 and the upper 103 with the hands, while the welt 104, once the first stitch P has been sewn, is drawn automatically.
  • the operator rotates the shaped arm 60 into the appropriate positions so as not to hinder the smooth progress of the semi-finished workpiece 100 under construction.
  • the operator activates the crinkling group 9 at the start of the curvature of the tip of the semi-finished workpiece 100 and deactivates it at the end of the operation, availing of any relevant reference marks that may be present.
  • the operator commands the lifting of the separating and guiding wall 80 into the non-operative position, in order to close the ring of the sewing seam C.
  • the support 6 is lowered again and the semi-finished workpiece 100 extracted ( figure 7 ); the workpiece can now pass on to the second group of operating steps, mentioned in the introduction hereto, which will lead to the creation of a shoe 200 as shown in figures 8 and 9 .
  • the shoe 200 thus obtained is fully compliant to a GOODYEAR shoe type and is indistinguishable therefrom.
  • the semi-finished workpiece 100 can be realized in an identical manner to what has been described above with in insole 201 of a different type, illustrated in figures 10 and 11 , in place of the traditional insole with the perpendicular border 102 considered up to this point.
  • the preferably leather insole 201 is prepared by making an oblique incision T in its face destined to be facing towards the bottom of the shoe.
  • a flap 202 is defined, close to the outer edge, which, by means of a suitable machine, is rotated up to placing it almost perpendicular to the relative surface ( figure 11 ).
  • Figure 12 shows the realisation of a sewing stitch P by the curved needle 4, with which the flap 202 is joined to the upper 103 and to the welt 104.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)
  • Footwear And Its Accessory, Manufacturing Method And Apparatuses (AREA)

Claims (12)

  1. Un procédé pour réaliser un produit semi-fini pour la fabrication d'une chaussure dans une machine à coudre (M) comprenant une tête (1), un support (6), mobile verticalement entre une position basse de repos et une position haute de travail, constitué d'un bras profilé (60) qui porte un disque (61) sur son sommet ; un corps tourelle (7), solidaire de la tête (1), ledit corps (7) définit inférieurement une butée (70) ; le produit semi-fini (100) étant d' un type comprenant : une semelle sous-pied (101) dotée, sur une surface latérale de celle-ci, d'un rebord perpendiculaire (102), disposé en boucle fermée et conformé de manière à suivre un profil périmétral de la semelle sous-pied (101), à une distance appropriée d'une limite extérieure de celle-ci ; une empeigne ouverte (103) ; une trépointe (104) ayant un développement linéaire qui suffit pour former un anneau autour de l'empeigne (103) ; le procédé comprenant les phases suivantes :
    positionner la semelle sous-pied (101) dans une machine à coudre (M) de manière à ce qu'une aiguille à coudre (4) de celle-ci puisse agir transversalement sur le rebord perpendiculaire (102) de l'extérieur vers l'intérieur de ladite semelle sous-pied (101) ;
    positionner l'empeigne ouverte (103) dans la machine à coudre (M), orientée dans une direction opposée au rebord perpendiculaire (102) et de manière à ce que le bord périmétral (103B) de l'empeigne (103) soit accolé à l'extérieur du rebord perpendiculaire (102) et aligné en hauteur avec l'extrémité libre de celui-ci, au moins dans une zone où agit l'aiguille à coudre (4) ;
    positionner la trépointe (14) dans la machine à coudre (M), accolée à l'extérieur de l'empeigne (103) et du rebord perpendiculaire (102), de manière à ce qu'elle soit alignée en hauteur avec ceux-ci, au moins dans les zones où agit l'aiguille à coudre (4) ;
    coudre simultanément la trépointe (104), l'empeigne (103) et le rebord perpendiculaire (102), traversés dans l'ordre par l'aiguille (4) à chaque point (P) de la couture, ce qui se traduit par la définition d'une piqûre de couture se développant en anneau (C) qui concerne tout le développement de la trépointe (104), de l'empeigne (103) et du rebord perpendiculaire (102) ;
    le procédé étant caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend la phase consistant à positionner la semelle sous-pied (101) sur le disque (61) du support (6) de la machine à coudre (M), quand ledit support (6) est dans sa position haute de travail, de manière à ce que la butée (70) intercepte en butée la semelle (101).
  2. Le procédé selon la revendication 1, la machine à coudre (M) comprenant en outre une paroi de séparation et de guidage (80) essentiellement verticale disposée latéralement à la butée (70), ladite paroi (80) est horizontalement étendue sur un tronçon précédant le tronçon où agit l'aiguille (4), caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend la phase consistant à insérer la paroi de séparation et de guidage (80) entre le côté extérieur du rebord perpendiculaire (102) et le bord périmétral (103B) de l'empeigne (103), avec ladite empeigne accolée et alignée audit rebord (102).
  3. Le procédé selon la revendication 2, la machine à coudre (M) comprenant en outre un pied en « U » (90) disposé extérieurement à la paroi de séparation et de guidage (80), sur un plan vertical quasiment perpendiculaire à ladite paroi (80), caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend la phase consistant à positionner l'empeigne (103) qui avance vers la zone de couture de manière à ce qu'elle soit latéralement contenue par la branche (90A) du pied en « U » (90) la plus proche de la paroi de séparation et de guidage (80).
  4. Le procédé selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce qu'il prévoit le marquage d'au moins un signe de référence dans la semelle sous-pied (101) et d'un signe de référence correspondant dans l'empeigne (103), à effectuer avant le positionnement de la semelle sous-pied (101) et de l'empeigne (103) dans la machine à coudre (M), lesdits signes de référence étant destinés à être alignés à la fin de la phase de couture.
  5. Le procédé selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que, pendant la phase de couture, la trépointe (104), l'empeigne (103) et le rebord perpendiculaire (102) sont avancés ensemble pour chaque point (P) de la piqûre de couture en anneau (C).
  6. Le procédé selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que, pendant la phase de couture, la même avance de la trépointe (104), de l'empeigne (103) et du rebord perpendiculaire (102) est prévue pour chaque point de couture (P) où la pointe de l'empeigne (103) n'est pas concernée, tandis qu'une avance de l'empeigne (103), augmentée d'une valeur prédéfinie par rapport à une avance de la trépointe (104) et du rebord perpendiculaire (102), est prévue pour chaque point de couture (P) localisé dans la zone de la pointe.
  7. Une machine à coudre pour réaliser un produit semi-fini pour la fabrication d'une chaussure, le produit semi-fini (100) étant d'un type comprenant : une semelle sous-pied (101) dotée, sur une surface de celle-ci, d'un rebord perpendiculaire (102), disposé en boucle fermée et conformé de manière à suivre un profil périmétral de la semelle sous-pied (101), à une distance appropriée d'une limite extérieure de celle-ci ; une empeigne ouverte (103) ; une trépointe (104) ayant un développement linéaire qui suffit pour former un anneau autour de l'empeigne (103) ; la machine (M) étant d'un type comprenant : une aiguille courbe (4), portée au niveau d'une extrémité libre d'un levier (3) actionné selon un mouvement oscillant alterné de manière à déplacer ladite aiguille courbe (4) entre deux positions limites le long d'une trajectoire courbe qui est concentrique à un rayon de courbure de l'aiguille (4) elle-même, lesdites positions limites étant respectivement rentrée, où elle est extérieure aux éléments à coudre, et avancée, où elle est destinée à traverser lesdits éléments et à entrer dans un dispositif à crochet tournant (5) prévu pour coopérer avec l'aiguille courbe (4) afin de réaliser des points de couture (P) d'un type à deux fils noués ; des moyens de translation horizontale destinés à déplacer par translation l'aiguille courbe (4) et le dispositif à crochet tournant (5), de façon synchronisée et par un mouvement alterné, selon des courses dont l'ampleur correspond à un pas prédéfini, pour chacun des points de couture (P) ; la machine à coudre (M) étant caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend :
    un support (6) destiné à supporter en appui la semelle sous-pied (101), mobile verticalement entre une position basse de repos et une position haute de travail ;
    une butée (70), destinée à intercepter en butée la semelle sous-pied (101) en appui sur le support (6), en relation de phase avec la position haute de travail de celui-ci, la butée (70) étant dotée d'une fente (71) permettant le passage de l'aiguille courbe (4) et l'entrée de celle-ci dans le dispositif à crochet tournant (5) ainsi qu'une translation horizontale de l'aiguille (4), le support (6) et la butée (70) étant tels qu'ils définissent, pour la semelle sous-pied (101), une position qui est telle que l'aiguille courbe (4) est destinée à agir transversalement sur le rebord perpendiculaire (102) de l'extérieur de la semelle sous-pied (101) vers l'intérieur de celle-ci ;
    une paroi de séparation et de guidage (80), essentiellement verticale, accolée à la butée (70) et s'étendant horizontalement sur un tronçon précédant le tronçon où agit l'aiguille courbe (4), destinée à s'insérer entre le côté extérieur du rebord perpendiculaire (102) et le bord périmétral (103B) de l'empeigne ouverte (103), disposée accolée et alignée à ce même rebord perpendiculaire (102) ;
    un pied en « U » (90) disposé extérieurement à la paroi de séparation et de guidage (80), sur un plan vertical qui est quasiment perpendiculaire à celle-ci, et associé à des organes d'actionnement de la machine à coudre (M), une branche (90A) du « U » la plus proche de la paroi de séparation et de guidage (80) étant destinée à contenir latéralement l'empeigne (103) qui avance vers la zone de couture, et un renfoncement (90B) du « U » étant destiné à définir un appui et un guide pour la trépointe (104) en entrée vers la zone de couture, ladite trépointe (104) étant destinée à être disposée accolée à l'extérieur de l'empeigne (103) et du rebord perpendiculaire (102), de manière à ce qu'une limite supérieure de son profil soit alignée avec l'empeigne (103) et le rebord perpendiculaire (102) ;
    des moyens actionneurs (81) associés à la paroi de séparation et de guidage (80), destinés à l'élever dans une position de non interférence avec le produit semi-fini (100), pour la réalisation des points finaux (P) d'une piqûre de couture en anneau (C) réalisée par la machine à coudre (M) de manière à joindre mutuellement la trépointe (104), l'empeigne (103) et le rebord perpendiculaire (102) et qui concerne tout le développement de ceux-ci.
  8. La machine selon la revendication 7, caractérisée en ce que le support (6) est constitué d'un bras profilé (60), monté de façon pivotante avec un axe quasiment vertical sur une embase correspondante et portant à son sommet un disque libre (61) ayant un axe de rotation qui coïncide avec l'axe de rotation dudit bras (60).
  9. La machine selon la revendication 7, caractérisée en ce que la paroi de séparation et de guidage (80) est conformée au niveau d'une extrémité inférieure d'un coulisseau (8), ledit coulisseau (8) pouvant coulisser verticalement dans un logement présenté dans le corps (7) de la butée (70), et est associée aux moyens actionneurs (81) via un étrier de support (82).
  10. La machine selon la revendication 7, caractérisée en ce que le pied en « U » (90) est fixé à une tige (91) appartenant à un groupe de plissage (9), prévu dans la machine (M) et pouvant être actionné sur commande de manière à augmenter l'avance de l'empeigne (103) par rapport à l'avance de la trépointe (104) et de la semelle sous-pied (101), la branche (90A) du pied (90) étant poussée, suite à l'actionnement dudit groupe de plissage (9), pour exercer une pression sur la surface de l'empeigne (103) et pour entraîner cette même empeigne (103), maintenue en butée du côté opposé par la paroi de séparation et de guidage (80), vers l'aiguille (4).
  11. La machine selon la revendication 10, caractérisée en ce qu'au moins une dent (90D) est présente dans la branche (90A) du pied en « U » (90), ladite dent (90D) est destinée à augmenter l'adhérence entre la branche (90A) et la surface de l'empeigne (103).
  12. La machine selon la revendication 7, caractérisée en ce qu'un pied réglable en hauteur est prévu, positionné au-dessus de la fente (71), destiné à définir une butée supérieure pour la trépointe (104).
EP20120158280 2011-03-09 2012-03-06 Procédé et machine à coudre pour réaliser un produit semi-fini pour la fabrication d'une chaussure. Active EP2497384B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
IT000113A ITBO20110113A1 (it) 2011-03-09 2011-03-09 Metodo e macchina cucitrice per la realizzazione di un semi-lavorato da utilizzare nella costruzione di una calzatura

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EP2497384A1 EP2497384A1 (fr) 2012-09-12
EP2497384B1 true EP2497384B1 (fr) 2014-04-30

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IT (1) ITBO20110113A1 (fr)

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
ITBO20120548A1 (it) 2012-10-08 2014-04-09 Ciucani Mocassino Machinery S R L Macchina cucitrice per la realizzazione di un semilavorato per una calzatura
ITUB20152321A1 (it) * 2015-07-20 2017-01-20 Ciucani Mocassino Machinery S R L Fondo per calzature, calzatura comprendente tale fondo e macchina per la realizzazione di una calzatura comprendente tale fondo
CN106388122A (zh) * 2015-08-03 2017-02-15 陈志胜 制鞋方法、用于该制鞋方法的鞋底、以及以此制成的鞋子
IT201700115759A1 (it) * 2017-10-13 2019-04-13 Ciucani Mocassino Machinery S R L Macchina da cucire per realizzare una cucitura norvegese
CN110318165B (zh) * 2019-07-02 2021-03-02 瑞安市佬赛鞋业有限公司 一种高端皮鞋加工用精准定位式缝纫机
CN113584740B (zh) * 2021-07-22 2023-03-14 泉州众亚智能科技有限公司 一种制鞋用的缝纫机械定位装置

Family Cites Families (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US1612940A (en) * 1925-11-21 1927-01-04 Reece Shoe Machinery Co Welt-attaching method and product
US2972969A (en) * 1959-01-29 1961-02-28 United Shoe Machinery Corp Shoe sewing machines
US3025544A (en) * 1959-08-28 1962-03-20 United Shoe Machinery Corp Methods of manufacturing goodyear welt shoes
US3410235A (en) * 1965-10-21 1968-11-12 United Shoe Machinery Corp Shoe manufacturing machines and methods

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ITBO20110113A1 (it) 2012-09-10
EP2497384A1 (fr) 2012-09-12

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