EP2651378A2 - Agent éclaircissant à base de composés d'acylpyridinium et d'agents d'alcalisation déterminés - Google Patents

Agent éclaircissant à base de composés d'acylpyridinium et d'agents d'alcalisation déterminés

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Publication number
EP2651378A2
EP2651378A2 EP11788428.8A EP11788428A EP2651378A2 EP 2651378 A2 EP2651378 A2 EP 2651378A2 EP 11788428 A EP11788428 A EP 11788428A EP 2651378 A2 EP2651378 A2 EP 2651378A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
acetyl
agent
group
amino
methylpyridinium
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
EP11788428.8A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Wibke Gross
Ralph Nemitz
Astrid Kroos
Frank Janssen
Astrid Kleen
Hartmut Manneck
Katja Günther
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Original Assignee
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Henkel AG and Co KGaA filed Critical Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Publication of EP2651378A2 publication Critical patent/EP2651378A2/fr
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4906—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4926—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom having six membered rings
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/22—Peroxides; Oxygen; Ozone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41—Amines
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/08—Preparations for bleaching the hair

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to agents for brightening keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, containing a special bleach activator.
  • the oxidizing agents contained in Blondierstoffn are able to lighten the hair fiber by the oxidative destruction of the hair dye melanin.
  • the use of hydrogen peroxide - preferably using ammonia or other alkalizing agents - as the oxidizing agent alone, for achieving a stronger blonding effect is usually a mixture of hydrogen peroxide and Peroxodisulfatsalzen and / or Peroxomonosulfatsalzen used.
  • the whitening is also accompanied by damage to the hair, since not only the natural coloring components of the hair, but also the other structural components of the hair are oxidatively damaged.
  • bleaching agents hitherto on the market generally show good lightening performance, they can not be considered optimal due to hair damage, long application times and the possible skin irritation due to the high concentrations of oxidizing and alkalizing agents. There is therefore still a need for lightening agents which show good lightening performance without at the same time damaging the hair fiber.
  • Brightening or bleaching agents typically require a basic pH, especially between pH 8.0 and pH 12. These pH values are necessary to provide an opening to the outer cuticle layer (Cuticle) and to allow a penetration of the active species, in particular hydrogen peroxide, into the hair.
  • the basic environment is another cause of damage to the hair and its structure, which also gains in importance with increased application time.
  • the spreading of the outer cuticle layer also leads to an unpleasant surface sensation of the hair and thus to a deteriorated combability in the wet and dry state.
  • ammonia-containing bleaching agents have additional advantages in terms of lightening performance.
  • a lightening agent has the disadvantage that it can cause irritation of the eyes or scalp in addition to additional damage to the hair by ammonia, which sensitization or even allergic reactions can be caused.
  • hair treatment agents have an intense, unpleasant odor, which can also lead to irritation of the nasal mucosa in the worst case.
  • the production and storage of ammonia-containing brighteners may be associated with problems in terms of handling and stability.
  • the object of the present invention is to provide a composition which brightens the hair not only stronger than when using hydrogen peroxide alone, but in addition also has an optimal brightening performance without additional damage to the hair and in particular without additional irritation of the eyes or scalp. These agents should not be noticed by unpleasant odors and also do not cause irritation of the scalp and nasal mucous membranes.
  • alkalizing agent is usually also associated with a reduction in bleaching performance.
  • these formulations comprising a combination of selected alkalizing agents and in particular of special alkalizing mixtures with hydrogen peroxide and certain acylpyridinium compounds, combine the advantage of high skin compatibility with a good bleaching performance and that with these special formulations also Whitening effect can be achieved, which shows no loss compared to the use of ammonia.
  • a first subject of the invention is therefore a means for lightening keratinic fibers, characterized in that it is in a cosmetic carrier
  • R 1 is a C 1 -C 6 -alkyl group, a C 2 -C 6 -alkenyl group, a C 2 -C 6 -hydroxyalkyl group, a C 1 -C 6 -alkoxy-C 2 -C 6 -alkyl group, a carboxy-C 2 - C 6 alkyl group, an arylCrCValkyl distr, a heteroaryl-CVCe-alkyl group, an aryl group or a heteroaryl group,
  • R 2, R 3 and R 4 each independently represent hydrogen, a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group
  • Halogen atom or a CVCe-acyl group with the proviso that at least one of the radicals R 2, R 3 and R 4 is a C 1 -C 4 -cyclo group,
  • At least one alkalizing agent selected from triethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1, 3-diol, lysine, ornithine and / or a Alkalleitersstoffgemisch of at least one basic amino acid and at least one alkanolamine,
  • (Iii) contains at least hydrogen peroxide as the oxidizing agent.
  • Under keratinic fibers or keratin fibers are furs, wool, feathers and especially human hair to understand.
  • the compositions according to the invention are primarily suitable for whitening keratin fibers, in principle there is nothing to prevent their use in other fields as well.
  • the agents according to the invention containing the active ingredients in a cosmetic carrier.
  • the cosmetic carrier is preferably aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic.
  • such carriers are for example creams, emulsions, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions, such as shampoos, foam aerosols or other preparations which are suitable for use on the hair.
  • an aqueous carrier contains at least 40% by weight, in particular at least 50% by weight, of water.
  • aqueous-alcoholic carriers are to be understood as meaning water-containing compositions containing from 3 to 70% by weight of a C 1 -C 4 alcohol, in particular ethanol or isopropanol.
  • compositions of the invention may additionally contain other organic solvents such as methoxybutanol, ethyl diglycol, 1, 2-propylene glycol, n-propanol, n-butanol, n-butylene glycol, glycerol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, and diethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents.
  • the agents according to the invention contain at least one acylpyridinium derivative according to formula (I).
  • substituents of the compounds of the formula (I) are mentioned below by way of non-limiting example.
  • C 6 -C 6 -alkyl radicals are the groups -CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -CH ( CH 3 ) 2 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) 2 , - CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 CH 3 , -C (CH 3 ) 3 .
  • Examples of a C 2 -C 6 -alkenyl group are a prop-2-enyl group (allyl group), a 2-methyl-prop-2-enyl group, a but-3-enyl group, a but-2-enyl group, a pentoxy group. 4-enyl group or a pent-3-enyl group, wherein the prop-2-enyl group is preferred.
  • Examples of a C 2 -C 6 -hydroxyalkyl group are -CH 2 CH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH (OH) CH 3 and -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH, where the Group -CH 2 CH 2 OH is preferred.
  • Examples of C 6 -C 12 alkoxy-C 1 -C 6 -alkyl groups are the groups -CH 2 CH 2 OCH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OCH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 CH 3 , - CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 OCH (CH 3 ) 2 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OCH (CH 3 ) 2 .
  • Examples of a carboxy-C C 6 alkyl group are the carboxymethyl group, the 2-carboxyethyl group or the 3-carboxypropyl group.
  • Examples of aryl-C Ce-alkyl groups are the benzyl group and the 2-phenylethyl group.
  • Examples of a heteroaryl-C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group are the pyridin-2-ylmethyl group, the pyridin-3-ylmethyl group, the pyridin-4-ylmethyl group, the pyrimidin-2-ylmethyl group, the pyrrol-1-ylmethyl group, the pyrrole-1 ylethyl group, the pyrazol-1-ylmethyl group or the pyrazol-1-yl-ethyl group.
  • Examples of an aryl group are the phenyl group, the 1-naphthyl group or the 2- Naphthyl.
  • Examples of a heteroaryl group are the pyridin-2-yl group, the pyridin-3-yl group, the pyridin-4-yl group, the pyrimidin-2-yl group, the pyrrol-1-yl group, the pyrrol-2-yl group, the pyrazole group.
  • Examples of a C 1 -C 6 acyl group are acetyl (1-oxo-ethyl), 1-oxo-propyl, 1-oxo-butyl, 1-oxo-pentyl, 1-oxo-2,2-dimethylpropyl and 1-oxo hexyl.
  • radical R 1 has the general structure (I) for a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group, for a C 2 -C 6 -alkenyl group or for a C 2 -C 6 -hydroxyalkyl group. It is preferred according to the invention if the radical R 1 is a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group, preferably methyl, ethyl, n-propyl or isopropyl and particularly preferably methyl.
  • acylpyridinium derivatives according to formula (I) according to the invention have particularly advantageous properties when they carry the acyl group either in the 2- or 4-position on the pyridine ring.
  • Preferred compounds of the formula (I) are furthermore those compounds in which either the radical R 2 or the radical R 4 is a C -C acyl group, preferably an acetyl group. It is further preferred if one of the radicals R 2 or R 4 is an acetyl group, while the other of these radicals and the radical R 3 are each hydrogen.
  • a further embodiment of the present invention is therefore characterized in that the agent contains as acylpyridinium derivative according to formula (I) at least one 2-acetylpyridinium derivative and / or 4-acetylpyridinium derivative.
  • Suitable acetylpyridinium derivatives are in particular the physiologically tolerable salts which contain as cation an acetylpyridinium derivative selected from 4-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium, 4-acetyl-1-allylpyridinium, 4-acetyl-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyridinium, 2-acetyl 1-methylpyridinium, 2-acetyl-1-allylpyridinium and 2-acetyl-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyridinium.
  • anion X " according to formula (I) is selected from halide, in particular chloride, bromide and iodide, benzenesulfonate, p-toluenesulfonate, CC ⁇ alkylsulfonate, trifluoromethanesulfonate, acetate, trifluoroacetate, perchlorate,% sulfate, hydrogensulfate
  • the physiologically acceptable anion X " is a halide ion (in particular chloride or bromide), hydrogen sulfate, p-toluenesulfonate, benzenesulfonate or acetate.
  • those agents are preferred according to the invention, which are characterized in that the Acylpyridiniumderivat according to formula (I) is selected from at least one compound of the group which is formed from 4-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate, 4-acetyl-1 -methyl- pyridinium benzenesulfonate, 4-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium hydrogensulfate, 4-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium acetate, 4-acetyl-1-allylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate, 4-acetyl-1-allylpyridinium benzenesulfonate, 4-acetyl-1 - allylpyridinium hydrogensulfate, 4-acetyl-1-allylpyridinium acetate, 2-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate, 2-acetyl-1-
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, as the acylpyridinium derivative according to formula (I), a compound selected from 4-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate and / or 2-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate, especially 4-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate.
  • acylpyridinium derivative according to formula (I) a compound selected from 4-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate and / or 2-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate, especially 4-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate.
  • An embodiment of the present invention is characterized in that in the composition according to the invention the acylpyridinium derivatives of the formula (I) in a weight fraction of 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, in particular from 0.2 to 4 wt .-%, and in particular 0 , 5 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition are included.
  • compositions according to the invention further contain at least one alkalizing agent selected from triethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1, 3-diol, lysine, ornithine and / or a Alkalizing agent mixture of at least one basic amino acid and at least one alkanolamine.
  • alkalizing agent selected from triethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1, 3-diol, lysine, ornithine and / or a Alkalizing agent mixture of at least one basic amino acid and at least one alkanolamine.
  • amino acid in the context of the invention is an organic compound which contains in its structure at least one protonatable amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO 3 H group.
  • Preferred amino acids are aminocarboxylic acids, in particular a- (alpha) -aminocarboxylic acids and .omega.-aminocarboxylic acids, ⁇ -aminocarboxylic acids being particularly preferred.
  • Basic amino acids according to the invention are to be understood as meaning those amino acids which have an isoelectric point p1 of greater than 7.0.
  • Basic ⁇ -aminocarboxylic acids contain at least one asymmetric carbon atom.
  • both possible enantiomers can be used equally as a specific compound or else mixtures thereof, in particular as racemates.
  • the basic amino acids are preferably selected from the group consisting of arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine, more preferably arginine and lysine.
  • alkanolamines which can be used in the alkalizing agent mixture according to the invention are preferably selected from primary amines having a C 2 -C 6 -alkyl basic body which carries at least one hydroxyl group.
  • Preferred alkanolamines are selected from the group consisting of 2-aminoethane-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentane-1-ol, 1-aminopropane -2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1 -Amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropane-1, 2-diol, 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1,3-diol.
  • Preferred agents according to the invention contain an alkalizing agent mixture.
  • a further embodiment of the first subject of the invention is an agent which is characterized in that the agent as alkalizing agent at least one alkalizing agent mixture of at least one basic amino acid selected from arginine, histidine, lysine and ornithine, and at least one alkanolamine selected from ethanolamine, triethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol and 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1,3-diol
  • a preferred embodiment of the first subject of the invention is an agent, which is characterized in that the agent as alkalizing agent at least one alkalizing agent mixture selected from the combination of arginine and ethanolamine, the combination of arginine and 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, the combination of lysine and 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, and / or the combination of lysine and ethanolamine.
  • the agent as alkalizing agent at least one alkalizing agent mixture selected from the combination of arginine and ethanolamine, the combination of arginine and 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, the combination of lysine and 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, and / or the combination of lysine and ethanolamine.
  • the agent may contain further alkalizing agents, in particular inorganic alkalizing agents.
  • inorganic alkalizing agents usable in the present invention are preferably selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium silicate, sodium metasilicate, potassium silicate, sodium carbonate and potassium carbonate.
  • the agent according to the invention contains at least hydrogen peroxide as the oxidizing agent.
  • hydrogen peroxide itself is used as the aqueous solution.
  • Hydrogen peroxide may also be in the form of a solid addition compound of hydrogen peroxide to inorganic or organic compounds, such as sodium percarbamide, Polyvinylpyrrolidinon n H 2 0 2 (n is a positive integer greater than 0), urea peroxide and melamine peroxide used.
  • Hydrogen peroxide is preferably 0.1 to 25 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1 to 20 wt .-% and particularly preferably 4.5 to 9 wt .-%, each calculated to 100% hydrogen peroxide and based on the ready-to-use agent on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent.
  • the means for lightening keratinic fibers in a cosmetic carrier as the first component at least one compound selected from the group consisting of 4-acetyl 1-methylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate, 4-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium-benzenesulfonate, 4-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium hydrogensulfate, 4-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium acetate, 4-acetyl-1-allylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate, 4- Acetyl-1-allylpyridinium benzenesulfonate, 4-acetyl-1-allylpyridinium hydrogensulfate, 4-acetyl-1-allylpyridinium acetate, 2-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate, 2-acetyl 1-methylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate, 2-acety
  • formulations containing as alkalizing agent both at least one alkanolamine, in particular monoethanolamine or 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, and at least one basic amino acid selected from the group arginine, lysine and / or ornithine contain.
  • alkalizing agent both at least one alkanolamine, in particular monoethanolamine or 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, and at least one basic amino acid selected from the group arginine, lysine and / or ornithine , contain.
  • Explicitly particularly preferred are therefore the combinations which include both an alkanolamine and a basic amino acid in the following concentration ranges.
  • Particularly preferred agents therefore contain as essential constituents one of the combinations (h) to (m).
  • the pH values are pH values which were measured at a temperature of 22 ° C.
  • Acidifying agents which are preferred according to the invention are indulgent acids, such as lactic acid, citric acid, acetic acid, malic acid or tartaric acid, dilute mineral acids and their acid-reacting salts in water and organic phosphonic or sulfonic acids.
  • the ready-to-use bleaching agents preferably have an alkaline pH. Therefore, it is preferred to adjust an agent of the first subject of the invention to an alkaline pH between 6 and 12, especially between 9 and 11, immediately prior to application to the keratinic fibers.
  • An embodiment of the first subject of the invention is therefore an agent which is characterized in that it has a pH of 7.5 to 12, preferably 8.5 to 1 1, 5, and particularly preferably 9 to 11.
  • the agents contain at least one stabilizer or complexing agent.
  • Particularly preferred stabilizers are phenacetin, alkali benzoates (sodium benzoate) and salicylic acid.
  • Complex images are substances that can complex metal ions.
  • Preferred complexing agents are so-called chelate complexing agents, ie substances which form cyclic compounds with metal ions, a single ligand occupying more than one coordination site on a central atom, i. H. at least "bidentate”.
  • Customary and preferred chelating agents in the context of the present invention are, for example, polyoxycarboxylic acids, polyamines, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA) and hydroxyethanediphosphonic acids or their alkali metal salts.
  • Complex-forming polymers ie polymers which carry functional groups either in the main chain themselves or in the side thereof, which can act as ligands and as a rule react with suitable metal atoms to form chelate complexes, can be used according to the invention.
  • the polymer-bound ligands of the resulting metal complexes can originate from only one macromolecule or belong to different polymer chains.
  • Preferred complexing agents according to the invention are nitrogen-containing polycarboxylic acids, in particular EDTA, and phosphonates, preferably hydroxyalkane or aminoalkane phosphonates and in particular 1-hydroxyethane-1, 1-diphosphonate (HEDP) or its di- or tetrasodium salt and / or ethylenediamine tetramethylenephosphonate (EDTMP) or its Hexane atriumsalz and / or Diethylentriaminpentamethylenphosphonat (DTPMP) or its hepta- or Octosatriumsalz.
  • HEDP 1-diphosphonate
  • EDTMP ethylenediamine tetramethylenephosphonate
  • DTPMP Diethylentriaminpentamethylenphosphonat
  • the agent can be applied to the hair together with a catalyst, which additionally activates the oxidation of the dye precursors.
  • catalysts are z.
  • Suitable enzymes for this purpose are, for.
  • peroxidases that can significantly increase the effect of small amounts of hydrogen peroxide.
  • Use of certain metal ions or complexes may also be preferred.
  • Particularly suitable are Zn 2+ , Cu 2+ and Mn 2+ .
  • ingredients In order to avoid instabilities due to undesirable reactions between the individual ingredients during storage of the agents, it is expedient to bring the ingredients into contact with each other only immediately before use. It is useful, the ingredients to be made separately from each other. On the other hand, it may be useful for stability reasons to store certain ingredients at a neutral or slightly acidic pH and only at the time of application to suspend an alkaline environment. These ingredients include hydrogen peroxide.
  • the acylpyridinium derivative of the formula (I) can be formulated both together with hydrogen peroxide and also together with the alkalizing agent according to the invention. However, it has been found to be advantageous according to the invention when the acylpyridinium derivative of the formula (I) is formulated together with hydrogen peroxide.
  • the ready-to-use agent according to the invention is prepared before use by mixing an alkalization preparation M2 and an oxidation preparation M1. It is therefore advantageous to offer the user both preparations in a set. Therefore, a preferred dosage form of the ready-to-use agent is a separate packaging unit wherein the means M1 and M2 are each packaged separately.
  • the agent M1 containing hydrogen peroxide has a weakly acidic pH.
  • a further embodiment of the present invention is therefore characterized in that the agent M1 has a pH of from pH 2 to pH 6, preferably from pH 2.5 to pH 4.5.
  • Another object of the present invention is therefore a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts), which comprises at least two separately manufactured containers, wherein
  • a first container C1 at least one agent M1, containing in a cosmetically acceptable
  • Carrier as oxidation agent at least hydrogen peroxide
  • a second container C2 at least one agent M2, containing in a cosmetically acceptable carrier at least one alkalizing agent selected from triethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1, 3-diol, lysine , Ornithine and / or an alkalizing agent mixture of at least one basic amino acid and at least one alkanolamine,
  • At least one of the agents M1 and / or M2 contains an acylpyridinium derivative of the formula (I) according to claim 1.
  • at least the agent M1 contains an acylpyridinium derivative of the formula (I).
  • container is understood to mean an envelope which is present in the form of an optionally reclosable bottle, a tube, a can, a sachet, a sachet or similar wrappings.
  • the wrapping material according to the invention are no limits. However, these are preferably casings made of glass or plastic.
  • kit-of-parts contains at least one further hair treatment agent in a separate container, in particular a conditioner preparation or a bleaching powder with peroxodisulfates.
  • the packaging unit application aids, such as combs, brushes or brushes, personal protective clothing, especially disposable gloves, and optionally include instructions for use.
  • Ready-to-use agents according to the invention are preferably aqueous, flowable preparations.
  • the compositions according to the invention may furthermore contain all active substances, additives and auxiliaries known for such preparations.
  • the ready-to-use agents as a mixture of agents M1 and M2 may contain surface-active substances selected from anionic as well as nonionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and cationic surfactants.
  • Anionic surfactants are characterized by a water-solubilizing anionic group such as a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group of about 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group, linear and branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate, sulfonate or sulfate group in the molecule.
  • zwitterionic surfactants are the betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat.
  • a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
  • Amphoteric surfactants are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which, apart from a C 8 -C 24 -alkyl or -acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO 3 H group and are capable of forming internal salts
  • Typical amphoteric surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C Atoms in the alkyl group.
  • Exemplary amphoteric surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C 12
  • Nonionic surfactants and emulsifiers contain as hydrophilic group z.
  • Atoms in the alkyl group with a methyl or C 2 -C 6 alkyl radical end-capped addition products of 1 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and at Alkylphenols having 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group;
  • Polyglycerol esters and alkoxylated polyglycerol esters polyol; higher alkoxylated, propoxylated and in particular ethoxylated, mono-, di- and triglycerides with a degree of alkoxylation greater than 5, such as glycerol monolaurate + 20 ethylene oxide and glycerol monostearate + 20 ethylene oxide; Amine oxides; hydroxy mixed; Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates
  • the nonionic emulsifiers in the context of the invention furthermore include the polymerization products of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide onto saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols; Fatty acid esters of polyhydric alcohols with saturated or unsaturated fatty acids; Alkyl esters of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids or alkylphenols and their alkoxylates; in particular ethylene glycol ethers of fatty alcohols; mixed ethylene and propylene glycol ethers with fatty alcohols; Fatty acid esters of sorbitan and polyethylene glycol; Esters of non-hydroxylated C 6 -C 30 -alkyl monocarboxylic acids with polyethylene glycol; and addition products of alkylphenols to ethylene and / or propylene oxide.
  • Cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats and the amidoamines are preferred according to the invention in ready-to-use agents.
  • Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, and the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83.
  • Further cationic surfactants which can be used according to the invention are the quaternized protein hydrolyzates.
  • Alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines, such as stearamidopropyl-dimethylamine.
  • dialkylaminoamines such as stearamidopropyl-dimethylamine.
  • preferred esterquats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines.
  • Such products are sold, for example, under the trademarks Stepantex, Dehyquart and Armocare.
  • the products Armocare VGH-70, an N, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart F-75, Dehyquart C-4046, Dehyquart L80 and Dehyquart AU-35 are examples of such esterquats.
  • the cationic surfactants are contained in the compositions according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • anionic, nonionic, zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof may be preferred.
  • the agents according to the invention may contain further active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives.
  • Other active substances, auxiliaries and additives which can be used according to the invention are, for example, anionic polymers (such as carbomers, copolymers and crosspolymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid and optionally further nonionic monomers); cationic polymers (such as Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-67, Polyquaternium-72, Polyquaternium-75, Polyquaternium-29, Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-22); nonionic polymers (such as vinyl pyrrolidinone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidinone and vinyl pyrrolidinone vinyl acetate copolymers and polysiloxanes); zwitterionic and amphoteric polymers (such as acryla)
  • compositions according to the invention can be provided not only as pure lightening agents, ie as so-called bleaching agents, but also as matting lightening agents which, at the same time as lightening, also cause a matting of the keratin fibers, so that the color shifts which frequently occur during bleaching operations, but undesired color shifts into reddish or orange Areas is compensated by a slight coloration, especially in cool shades.
  • dyeing components are so-called substantive dyes ("direct drawers"), which are dye molecules which are applied directly to the substrate and do not require an oxidative process to form the ink.
  • the ready-to-use agents according to the invention may contain at least one substantive dye.
  • These are dyes that raise directly on the hair and do not require an oxidative process to form the color.
  • Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols.
  • the substantive dyes are each preferably used in an amount of 0.0001 to 5.0 wt .-%, preferably from 0.001 to 1, 5 wt .-%, each based on the total application preparation.
  • the total amount of substantive dyes is preferably at most 1, 0 wt .-%.
  • Preferred anionic substantive dyes are those under the international designations or trade names Acid Yellow 1, Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, Pigment Red 57: 1, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, Acid Violet 43, Acid Black 1, Acid Black 52, bromophenol blue and tetrabromophenol blue known compounds.
  • Preferred cationic substantive dyes are cationic triphenylmethane dyes such as Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14, aromatic systems substituted with a quaternary nitrogen group such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17, as well as direct dyes which contain a heterocycle which has at least one quaternary nitrogen atom, in particular Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51.
  • Cationic direct dyes which are sold under the trademark Arianor ®, are also particularly preferred cationic substantive dyes according to the invention.
  • Suitable nonionic substantive dyes are in particular nonionic nitro and quinone dyes and neutral azo dyes.
  • Preferred nonionic substantive dyes are those under the international designations or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 1, HC Red 13, HC Red BN, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 11, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9 known compounds, and 1, 4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol , 1,4-Bis (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4- (2-hydroxyethyl) aminophenol, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 4- [ (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitro-1-methylbenzene, 1-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-5-chloro-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 1- (2
  • Dye combinations preferred according to the invention are those which contain at least the combination of tetrabromophenol blue and Acid Red 92; Tetrabromophenol blue and Acid Red 98; Tetrabromophenol blue and Acid Red 94; Tetrabromophenol Blue and Acid Red 87 or Tetrabromphenol Blue and Acid Red 51.
  • the substantive dyes each represent uniform compounds. Rather, due to the production process for the individual dyes, minor amounts of other components may be included, as far as these do not adversely affect the dyeing result or for other reasons, e.g. toxicological, must be excluded.
  • the consumer wishes to have a very strong bleaching, it may be preferable if, in addition to hydrogen peroxide, the acylpyridinium compound of the formula (I) and the alkalizing agent mixture according to the invention, at least one inorganic persulfate salt or peroxodisulfate salt in the Means for lightening the keratinic fibers is included.
  • Preferred peroxodisulfate salts are ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate and sodium peroxodisulfate.
  • the peroxodisulfate salts can be used in an amount of from 0.1 to 25% by weight, in particular in an amount of from 0.5 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the ready-to-use Means, be included.
  • These peroxodisulfates are also preferably added to the composition only immediately prior to use in order to avoid storage instabilities.
  • compositions according to the invention are preferably used for lightening and bleaching human hair.
  • the entire hair can be bleached or only certain parts of hair, such as highlights, which are optionally separated from the remaining hair, for example by means of films treated.
  • Another object of the invention is therefore a method for whitening human hair, characterized in that
  • the exposure time is 5 to 60 minutes, preferably 30 to 45 minutes, before the agent is finally rinsed out.
  • the application temperatures can range between 15 and 40 ° C.
  • the remaining agent is removed by rinsing off the hair. The washing with a shampoo is eliminated if a strong surfactant-containing carrier was used.
  • Another object of the present invention is the cosmetic use of an agent of the first subject of the invention for whitening ke ratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair.
  • Developer dispersions E1 to E6 are each mixed with one of Blondiercremes B1 to B14 in a weight ratio of 1: 1 to a freshly prepared application preparation. These application preparations have a pH of about 9 to 1 1.
  • the application preparations with the Blondiercreme B1 are not according to the invention.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne un agent utilisé pour éclaircir des fibres kératiniques, ledit agent contenant dans un excipient cosmétique (i) au moins un dérivé d'acylpyridinium de formule (I), (ii) au moins un agent d'alcalisation sélectionné parmi triéthanolamine, 2-amino-2-méthylpropan-1-ol, 2-amino-2-méthylpropan-1,3-diol, lysine, ornithine et/ou un mélange d'agents d'alcalisation composé d'au moins un acide aminé basique et d'au moins une alcanolamine, et (iii) de l'eau oxygénée comme oxydant.
EP11788428.8A 2010-12-17 2011-11-22 Agent éclaircissant à base de composés d'acylpyridinium et d'agents d'alcalisation déterminés Ceased EP2651378A2 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102010063368A DE102010063368A1 (de) 2010-12-17 2010-12-17 Aufhellmittel mit Acylpyridiniumverbindungen und bestimmten Alkalisierungsmitteln
PCT/EP2011/070624 WO2012079920A2 (fr) 2010-12-17 2011-11-22 Agent éclaircissant à base de composés d'acylpyridinium et d'agents d'alcalisation déterminés

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EP2651378A2 true EP2651378A2 (fr) 2013-10-23

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US (1) US8668745B2 (fr)
EP (1) EP2651378A2 (fr)
DE (1) DE102010063368A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2012079920A2 (fr)

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US11273120B2 (en) 2019-11-18 2022-03-15 Actera Ingredients, Inc. Hair treatments
WO2021101946A1 (fr) * 2019-11-18 2021-05-27 Actera Ingredients, Inc. Traitements capillaires
DE102019219162A1 (de) * 2019-12-09 2021-06-10 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Ammoniak-freies Blondier-Kit zur schonenden Aufhellung von keratinischen Fasern

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE102005059647A1 (de) * 2005-12-12 2007-06-14 Henkel Kgaa Bleichmittel
DE102008022710A1 (de) 2008-05-07 2009-11-12 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Aufhellmittel mit kationischen Acylpyridiniumderivaten, Co-Bleichaktivatoren und Wasserstoffperoxid
DE102008044715A1 (de) * 2008-08-28 2010-03-04 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Kationische Acylpyridinium-Derivate als Bleichaktivatoren
DE102008046433A1 (de) * 2008-09-09 2010-03-11 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Aufhellmittel mit 2-Acylpyridinium-Derivaten
DE102008057018A1 (de) * 2008-11-12 2010-07-08 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Kombination von kationischen Bleichaktivatoren und Farbstoffen
DE102008061133A1 (de) * 2008-12-11 2010-06-17 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Verstärkte Aufhellung bei gleichzeitiger Haarkräftigung
DE102009003155A1 (de) 2009-05-15 2010-11-18 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Haarpflege mit Acetylpyridiniumsalzen

Non-Patent Citations (1)

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Title
See references of WO2012079920A2 *

Also Published As

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DE102010063368A1 (de) 2012-06-21
US20130269721A1 (en) 2013-10-17
US8668745B2 (en) 2014-03-11
WO2012079920A3 (fr) 2013-06-20
WO2012079920A2 (fr) 2012-06-21

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