EP2688545A2 - Procédé pour produire un agent lavant conditionneur - Google Patents

Procédé pour produire un agent lavant conditionneur

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Publication number
EP2688545A2
EP2688545A2 EP12710217.6A EP12710217A EP2688545A2 EP 2688545 A2 EP2688545 A2 EP 2688545A2 EP 12710217 A EP12710217 A EP 12710217A EP 2688545 A2 EP2688545 A2 EP 2688545A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
group
radicals
hydrogen atom
alkyl
independently
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP12710217.6A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Volker Scheunemann
Erik Schulze Zur Wiesche
Dirk Hentrich
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Original Assignee
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Henkel AG and Co KGaA filed Critical Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Publication of EP2688545A2 publication Critical patent/EP2688545A2/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/068—Microemulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/42—Amides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/604—Alkylpolyglycosides; Derivatives thereof, e.g. esters
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

  • the invention is in the field of cosmetics and relates to a process for the preparation of a conditioning detergent in which a microemulsion is mixed with a cosmetic carrier containing a specific polyhydroxy compound.
  • the invention further relates to a conditioning detergent containing a microemulsion and a polyhydroxy compound, as well as the use of the conditioning detergent to strengthen the hair structure, to improve the sensory properties of hair and to increase the hair volume.
  • Cosmetic hair cleansers have long been known and are regularly improved or adapted to the changing needs of consumers.
  • Cleaning is usually understood to be the removal of the hair from unwanted odors, dirt, dandruff, sebum deposits and / or styling agent residues.
  • haptic and optically perceptible care effect is meant that the hair after the treatment (cleaning) are smooth, easy to comb, soft, shiny and easy to style.Furthermore, cleaned hair should have an increased volume.
  • hair conditioning agents to improve hair conditioning agents such as silicones, oils or waxes.
  • silicone-based hair cleansers often have the disadvantage that, with regular use over a longer period of time, they lead to undesirable weighting of the hair. Especially fine or damaged hair lose their volume.
  • the effectiveness of oils and waxes in hair cleaners is not as pronounced as that of silicones.
  • oils and waxes can be stabilized only in minor amounts in hair cleansers, which makes the preparation of such agents difficult.
  • the object of the present invention was to provide an uncomplicated method for producing a conditioning cleaning agent.
  • the cleaning agent should contain higher amounts of at least one hair-conditioning lipid component without the need for stabilizing the lipid component in the cleanser requiring energetically-elaborate steps such as heating, melting or predispersing. Likewise, the incorporation of polymeric or crystalline agents for stabilizing the lipid component should be dispensed with.
  • Fine, thin hair should have an increased hair volume after using the cleanser.
  • Another object of the invention was to produce transparent detergents.
  • the invention relates to a method for producing a conditioning cleaning agent, comprising the following steps:
  • R, R 2 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group, a phenyl group or in each case alkylene groups which are constituents of a cyclopentane or cyclohexane ring
  • the radicals R 3 , R 4 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group, a C 1-6 alkyl group, a C 1-8 hydroxyalkyl group, a phenyl group or in each case alkylene groups which are constituents of a cyclopentane or cyclohexane ring
  • radicals R 5 , R 6 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a
  • R 5 , R 6 stands for a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched C 2 -C 20 -alkyl chain which may be interrupted by one or more ester and / or or amide groups, and which may carry one or more hydroxyl groups, with the proviso that the radicals R 3 , R 4 do not simultaneously represent a hydroxyl group.
  • a cosmetic carrier is preferably understood as meaning an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic carrier.
  • the cosmetic carrier preferably contains at least 40% by weight of water.
  • the cosmetic carrier may contain from 0.01 to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 35% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 30% by weight, of at least one alcohol which may be selected from ethanol, Propanol, 2-propanol, isopropanol, 1-butanol, 2-butanol, 1-pentanol, 2-pentanol, 1 - hexanol, 2-hexanol, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol or mixtures of these alcohols.
  • at least one alcohol which may be selected from ethanol, Propanol, 2-propanol, isopropanol, 1-butanol, 2-butanol, 1-pentanol, 2-pentanol, 1 - hexanol, 2-hexanol, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol or mixtures of these alcohols.
  • ethanol particularly preferred are ethanol, 1-propanol, 2-propanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol and / or phenoxyethanol and mixtures of these alcohols.
  • the process according to the invention does not require a specific sequence when mixing components a) and b). It is in principle possible to initially introduce a polyhydroxy compound of the formula (I) in a suitable carrier, and then to add the microemulsion. It is also possible to add to the microemulsion a carrier containing at least one polyhydroxy compound according to formula (I).
  • a previously described cosmetic carrier is initially introduced. Subsequently, all optional components of the cleaning agent and at least one polyhydroxy compound of the formula (I) are incorporated into the carrier, it being preferred if all steps are carried out at room temperature by mixing (in particular by gentle stirring) of the respective component with the carrier.
  • Suitable polyhydroxy compounds of the formula (I) are preferably used in the process according to the invention in an amount of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 7.5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.075 to 5% by weight. % and in particular from 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, wherein the amounts are based on the total weight of the conditioning detergent.
  • Preferred polyhydroxy compounds according to formula (I) are those in which
  • radicals R, R 2 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • radicals R 3 , R 4 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group or a methyl group, with the proviso that R 3 , R 4 do not simultaneously represent a hydroxyl group,
  • R 5 , R 6 are independently a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, or one of R 5 , R 6 is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group and the other radical is one of the following groups
  • R 7 represents a hydrogen atom or a C 1-4 -alkyl group
  • R 8 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl group or a hydroxyl group
  • the radicals R 9 to R 5 are independently a hydrogen atom, a C 1- - alkyl group or a C ⁇ hydroxyl group, with the proviso that each carbon atom carries at most one hydroxyl group.
  • Particularly preferred polyhydroxy compounds of formula (I) are 1, 3-propylene glycol, glycerol, erythritol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, mannitol, xylitol and / or panthenol, it being also particularly preferred mixtures of two or more of the aforementioned polyhydroxy compounds in the inventive Use method.
  • Particularly preferred are panthenol, glycerol and / or sorbitol.
  • Microemulsions a) which are suitable for use in the process according to the invention preferably have an average volume particle size of less than 3 ⁇ m, more preferably less than 2 ⁇ m and in particular less than 1 ⁇ m.
  • % By weight of at least one alkyl (oligo) glycoside of the general formula RO- [G] x , in which R is an alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms Atoms and x stands for numbers from 1 to 10,
  • alkyl (oligo) glycosides (i) are derived from aldoses and / or ketoses having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose.
  • the radical R is particularly preferably an alkyl radical having 6 to 20 and in particular having 8 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • the index number x in the general formula RO- [G] x stands for the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie for the distribution of the mono- and oligoglycosides.
  • the index number x preferably has a value in the range of 1 to 6, particularly preferably in the range of 1 to 3, which may be an integer but not a whole number, which can be determined analytically.
  • Particularly preferred alkyl (oligo) glycosides have a degree of oligomerization between 1, 2 and 1.5.
  • alkyl (oligo) glycosides are known and commercially available from various suppliers under the INCI names Decyl Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside and Coco Glucoside.
  • esters (ii) are monoesters of glycerol with linear fatty acids having alkyl chain lengths of 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • esters (ii) are glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl monopalmitate, glyceryl monostearate and / or glyceryl monooleate.
  • Particularly suitable is glyceryl monooleate.
  • Suitable oils (iii) may be selected from mineral, natural and synthetic oil components and / or fatty substances.
  • natural (vegetable) oils triglycerides and mixtures of triglycerides can be used.
  • Preferred natural oils are coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil, walnut oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, tea tree oil, soybean oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango seed oil, meadowfoam seed oil, thistle oil, macadamia nut oil, grapeseed oil, Amaranth seed oil, argan oil, bamboo oil, olive oil, wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil, safflower oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil, jojoba oil, rambutan oil, cocoa butter and shea butter.
  • mineral oils are used in particular mineral oils, paraffin and Isoparaffinöle and synthetic hydrocarbons.
  • An example of a usable hydrocarbon is for example that available as a commercial product 1, 3-di- (2-ethylhexyl) - cyclohexane (Cetiol ® S).
  • Suitable synthetic oils are silicone compounds.
  • Silicones have excellent conditioning properties on the hair. In particular, they cause better combability of the hair in the wet and dry state and in many cases have a positive effect on the hair and the softness of the hair.
  • Suitable silicones may be selected from:
  • polyalkyl siloxanes polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes which are volatile or nonvolatile, straight chain, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or uncrosslinked;
  • grafted silicone polymers having a non-silicone organic backbone consisting of an organic backbone formed from organic monomers containing no silicone grafted with at least one polysiloxane macromer in the chain and optionally at least one chain end;
  • oil component may further serve a dialkyl ether.
  • dialkyl ethers are, in particular, di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n -undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and di tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyl decyl ether, tert-butyl n-oct
  • di-n-octyl ether which is commercially available under the name Cetiol ® OE.
  • Fatty substances are to be understood fatty acids, fatty alcohols and natural and synthetic waxes, which may be present both in solid form and liquid in aqueous dispersion.
  • the fatty acids used can be linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Among these could be mentioned, for example, isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ® 871 and Emersol ® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ® (Cognis) fatty acids.
  • fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic as well as their technical mixtures.
  • Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.
  • fatty alcohols it is possible to use saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C 6 -C 30 -, preferably C 0 -C 22 -and very particularly preferably C 2 -C 22 -carbon atoms.
  • the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction.
  • those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reduction of naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols.
  • Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ® such as Stenol ® 1618 or Lanette ® such as Lanette ® O or Lorol ®, for example, Lorol ® C8, Lorol C14 ®, Lorol C18 ®, ® Lorol C8-18, HD-Ocenol ®, Crodacol ® such as Crodacol ® CS, Novol ®, Eutanol ® G, Guerbitol ® 16, Guerbitol ® 18, Guerbitol ® 20, Isofol ® 12, Isofol ® 16, lsofol ® 24, Isofol ® 36, Isocarb ® 12, Isocarb ® 16 or acquire Isocarb® ® 24 for sale.
  • wool wax alcohols as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ®, White Swan ®, Coronet ® or Fluilan ® can be used according to the invention.
  • waxes there may be used solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP.
  • Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.
  • fatty substances are, for example
  • Ester oils are to be understood as meaning the esters of C 6 - C 30 fatty acids with C 2 - C 30 fatty alcohols.
  • the monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred.
  • fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, Petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures.
  • fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol , Behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures.
  • isopropyl myristate IPM Rilanit ®
  • isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester Cetiol ® SN
  • 2-ethylhexyl palmitate Cegesoft ® 24
  • stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester Cetiol ® 868
  • cetyl oleate glycerol tricaprylate, caprate Kokosfettalkohol- / caprylate (Cetiol ® LC)
  • n-butyl stearate oleyl erucate
  • isopropyl palmitate IPP Rilanit ®
  • oleyl Oleate Cetiol ®
  • hexyl laurate Cetiol ® A
  • di-n-butyl adipate Cetiol ® B
  • Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate
  • diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2- ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate,
  • ethoxylated or non ethoxylated mono, - di- and trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol such as Monomuls 90-018 ®, ® Monomuls 90-L12, Cetiol ® HE or Cutina ® MD.
  • microemulsion a) contains - based on its total weight - preferably 40 to 80 wt .-%, more preferably 40 to 70 wt .-% and in particular 45 to 65 wt .-% water.
  • the microemulsion a) can be prepared (preferably before carrying out the process according to the invention) preferably by mixing the liquid oil phases (ii) and (iii) with the surfactant-containing, aqueous phase ((i) and (iv)) with stirring.
  • the microemulsion a) in the process according to the invention can also be used as a prefabricated commercial product.
  • An example of a suitable commercially available microemulsion a) is obtainable under the name "Plantasil Micro ®" by the company Cognis microemulsion.
  • the microemulsion a) is in the process according to the invention preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 50 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.1 to 30 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.5 to 20 wt .-% and in particular from 1 to 15 wt .-%, wherein the amounts relate to the total weight of the conditioning detergent.
  • the production process according to the invention leads to cleaning agents which are to be conditioned and which are transparent.
  • the conditioning detergents have an NTU value (nephelometric turbidity unit) of not more than 100, preferably not more than 50, and in particular not more than 30.
  • conditioning cleaners which are outstandingly clean, very mild and have a particularly good foaming power.
  • Suitable further surfactants may be included in the microemulsion a), or they may be added to the cosmetic carrier before or after incorporation of the microemulsion.
  • the other surfactants are constituents of the microemulsion a), they are added to the surfactant-containing aqueous phase ((i) and (iv)) of the microemulsion before mixing with the oil phases ((ii) and (iii)).
  • the microemulsion a) preferably contains at most 25% by weight of other surfactants.
  • Suitable surfactants for the process according to the invention may be selected from highly foaming, mild anionic, amphoteric / zwitterionic and / or nonionic
  • Suitable anionic surfactants may preferably be used in the process according to the invention in amounts of from 0.1 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably from 1 to 25% by weight and in particular from 3 to 20 wt .-% are used, wherein the amounts are based on the total weight of the conditioning detergent.
  • Suitable anionic surfactants include:
  • Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group
  • Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and / or dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,
  • Alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 C atoms
  • R-0 (CH 2 -CH 2 0) x -OS0 3 " X + , in which R is a preferably linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, x 0 or 1 to 12 and X is an alkali or ammonium ion,
  • R 2 is hydrogen, a radical (CH 2 CH 2 0) nR or X, n is from 0 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or NR 3 R 4 R 5 R 6 , where R 3 to R 6 are independently of one another a C 4 - hydrocarbon radical.
  • Preferred anionic surfactants are ether carboxylic acids of the abovementioned formula, acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, sulfosuccinic mono- and / or dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkylpolyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24C -Atomen in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and / or alkyl sulfate and / or Alkylpolyglykolethersulfatsalze the aforementioned formula.
  • Particularly preferred anionic surfactants are straight-chain or branched alkyl ether sulfates which contain an alkyl radical having 8 to 18 and in particular 10 to 16 C atoms and 1 to 6 and in particular 2 to 4 ethylene oxide units.
  • anionic surfactants are straight-chain or branched alkyl sulfonates which contain an alkyl radical having 8 to 18 and in particular 10 to 16 carbon atoms. Particular preference is given to the sodium, magnesium and / or triethanolamine salts of linear or branched lauryl, tridecyl and / or myristyl sulfates which have a degree of ethoxylation of from 2 to 4.
  • Suitable amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants may in the process according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0 to 20 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.25 to 17.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.5 to 15 wt .-% and in particular from 1 to 10 wt .-% are used, wherein the quantities refer to the total weight of the conditioning detergent.
  • Suitable amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants may be selected from compounds of the following formulas (i) to (v) in which the radical R is in each case a straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkene radical having 8 to 24 Carbon atoms,
  • amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants are alkylamidoalkylbetaines and / or alkylampho (di) acetates of the abovementioned formulas (i) to (v).
  • amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants include the surfactants cocamidopropyl betaine and disodium cocoamphodiacetate known under the INCI name.
  • Suitable nonionic surfactants in the process according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.25 to 17, 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.5 to 15 wt .-% and in particular from 1 to 10 wt .-% are used, wherein the amounts are based on the total weight of the conditioning detergent.
  • nonionic surfactants / emulsifiers examples include
  • alkyl oligoglucosides in particular alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated C 2 / i 4 coconut alcohol having a DP of 1 -3, as described, for example, under the INCI Name "coco-glucosides" are commercially available, preferably.
  • nonionic surfactants are the C 8 -C 30 fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol. Particularly preferred are the C 0 -C 6 -Fetklamono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide Glycerol. Especially preferred is the PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate known under the INCI name.
  • the method for producing the conditioning cleaning agent comprises the following steps:
  • anionic surfactant which may be selected from the group of ether carboxylic acids, the acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, the sulfosuccinic
  • the cosmetic carrier 0.05 to 7.5 wt .-% glycerol, sorbitol and / or panthenol and
  • the method for producing the conditioning cleaning agent comprises the following steps:
  • At least one anionic surfactant which may be selected from the group of the ether carboxylic acids of the aforementioned formula, the acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, the Sulfobernsteinklamono- and / or dialkyl ester with 8 bis 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and the sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, the alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 C atoms and / or the alkyl sulfate and / or alkylpolyglycol ether sulfate salts,
  • amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactant which may be selected from Alkylamidoalkylbetainen and / or alkylampho (di) acetates of the aforementioned formulas (i) to (v) and
  • At least one nonionic surfactant which may be selected from C 8 -C 30 fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol, amine oxides, addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, sorbitan fatty acid esters and 6.3re locatedn of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as, for example, polysorbates, sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters, addition products of ethylene oxide onto fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines and / or alkyl polyglucosides.
  • nonionic surfactant which may be selected from C 8 -C 30 fatty acid mono- and
  • the cosmetic carrier 0.05 to 7.5 wt .-% glycerol, sorbitol and / or panthenol,
  • the conditioning effect of the conditioning cleaning formulation prepared by the method according to the invention is achieved by homogeneously distributing and separating the lipid component (s) from the microemulsion on the hair fibers.
  • the hair fibers smooth and have after treatment with the conditioning cleansing formulations more suppleness and a soft touch.
  • the polyhydroxy compounds contribute to the smoothing of the hair fibers and to the strengthening of the hair structure.
  • Suitable cationic polymers may be included in the microemulsion a) or may be added to the cosmetic carrier before or after incorporation of the microemulsion.
  • Suitable cationic polymers are used in the process according to the invention preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, wherein the stated Refer amounts to the total weight of the conditioning detergent.
  • Suitable cationic polymers are, for example:
  • quaternized cellulose derivatives such as are available under the names of Celquat ® and Polymer JR ® commercially
  • hydrophobically modified cellulose derivatives for example those sold under the trade name SOFTCAT ® cationic polymers,
  • honey for example the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50,
  • cationic guar derivatives in particular those sold under the tradename Cosmedia Guar ® and Jaguar ® products,
  • Such compounds are available under the Be drawings Gafquat ® 734 and Gafquat ® 755 commercially
  • Vinylpyrrolidone vinylimidazoliummethochloride copolymers such as those offered under the names Luviquat.RTM ® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552,
  • Polyquaternium 2 Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium 27, Polyquaternium-32, Polyquaternium-37, Polyquaternium 74 and Polyquaternium 89 known polymers.
  • Particularly preferred cationic polymers which can be used in the process according to the invention are quaternized cellulose polymers, cationic guar derivatives and / or cationic polymers based on acrylic acid (derivative), which are selected, in particular, from the polymers Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Polyquaternium known under the INCI names -6, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-37 and / or Polyquaternium-67.
  • the method for producing the conditioning cleaning agent comprises the following steps:
  • a cosmetic carrier which contains at least one protein hydrolyzate, at least one anionic surfactant and at least one cationic polymer.
  • At least one anionic surfactant which may be selected from the group of the ether carboxylic acids of the abovementioned formula which contains acylsarcosides having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms. Atoms in the acyl group, the Sulfobernsteinklamono- and / or dialkyl ester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and the sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, the alpha-olefinsulfonate with 8 to 24 carbon atoms and / or the alkyl sulfate and / or Alkylpolyglykolethersulfatsalze, and 0.01 to 10 wt .-% of at least one cationic polymer selected from the group of quaternized cellulose polymers, the cationic guar derivatives and / or the cationic polymer
  • the cosmetic carrier 0.05 to 7.5 wt .-% glycerol, sorbitol and / or panthenol,
  • the cosmetic carrier described above may also contain a number of other optional active ingredients which can effect advantageous properties on the hair and do not complicate the process according to the invention.
  • the preferred optional ingredients include, for example:
  • Vitamins, vitamin derivatives and / or vitamin precursors which in the method according to the invention preferably in an amount of 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.005 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular from 0.01 to 5 wt .-% can be used
  • Antidandruff active ingredients which in the process according to the invention preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.025 to 7.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 5 wt .-% and in particular of 0.075 to 3 wt .-% can be used, wherein the amounts are in each case based on the total weight of the conditioning detergent.
  • Suitable vitamins are preferably the following vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives:
  • Vitamin A the group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A 2 ).
  • the ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol.
  • vitamin A component for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration.
  • Vitamin B belong to the vitamin B group or to the vitamin B complex among others • Vitamin (thiamine)
  • Vitamin B 3 • Vitamin B 3 .
  • the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed.
  • Vitamin B 5 pantothenic acid and panthenol.
  • panthenol is preferred.
  • Useful derivatives of panthenol are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol, as well as cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, as well as cationic panthenol derivatives.
  • Vitamin B 6 pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal
  • Vitamin C ascorbic acid: use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.
  • Vitamin E tocopherols, especially a-tocopherol.
  • Vitamin F is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
  • Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] - imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, in the meantime, the trivial name biotin has prevailed.
  • vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H are particularly preferred.
  • Particularly preferred are nicotinamide, biotin, pantolactone and / or panthenol.
  • Suitable antidandruff active ingredients may be selected from piroctone olamine, climbazole, zinc pyrithione, ketoconazole, salicylic acid, sulfur, selenium sulfide, tar preparations, undecenoic acid derivatives, burdock root extracts, poplar extracts, nettle extracts, walnut shell extracts, birch extracts, willow bark extracts, rosemary extracts and / or arnica extracts.
  • auxiliaries and additives which can be used in the process according to the invention are, for example:
  • Thickening agents such as gelatin or vegetable gums, for example agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. As methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays and phyllosilicates such. As bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such.
  • polyvinyl alcohol the Ca, Mg or Zn - soaps,
  • Structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid
  • fiber-structure-improving active ingredients in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as, for example, glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose,
  • Substances for adjusting the pH for example ⁇ - and ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids such as citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, glycolic acid,
  • Active ingredients such as bisabolol,
  • Ceramides are understood as meaning N-acylsphingosine (fatty acid amides of sphingosine) or synthetic analogs of such lipids (so-called pseudo-ceramides),
  • Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N 2 O, dimethyl ether, C0 2 and air,
  • Bodying agents such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,
  • Preservatives such as sodium benzoate or salicylic acid
  • Viscosity regulators such as salts (NaCl).
  • the process according to the invention is preferably suitable for the preparation of conditioning cleaners which have a pH in the range from 1.5 to 7.5, preferably from 2 to 6.5 and in particular from 3 to 6.
  • the inventive method has the advantage that it is particularly easy to perform and requires a low energy consumption.
  • the care components a) and b) can be mixed with one another in any desired sequence, and further auxiliaries and active substances can be incorporated into the cosmetic carrier without the process thereby becoming considerably more complicated.
  • conditioning cleaners which have a high lipid content (for particularly good hair conditioning), which continue to foam well, are clean and, moreover, are transparent and stable.
  • the hair treatment with conditioning cleansers which are accessible via the method according to the invention, results in strengthened hair having a soft feel, increased suppleness and more volume.
  • a second object of the invention is a conditioning cleanser which is contained in a cosmetic carrier
  • R, R 2 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group or a phenyl group or in each case alkylene groups which are constituents of a cyclopentane or cyclohexane ring,
  • radicals R 3 , R 4 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a
  • Phenyl group or each represent alkylene groups which are constituents of a cyclopentane or cyclohexane ring,
  • radicals R 5 , R 6 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a
  • radicals R 5 , R 6 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched C -C 20 alkyl chain which may be interrupted by one or more ester and / or amide groups, and which may carry one or more hydroxyl groups, with the proviso that the radicals R 3 , R 4 are not simultaneously a hydroxyl group.
  • a third object of the invention is the use of the above-described cosmetic cleanser to strengthen the hair structure, to improve the sensory properties of hair and to increase the hair volume.
  • the surfactants, the polyhydroxy compounds and optionally nicotinic acid amide were mixed at room temperature with half of the water,
  • the cationic polymer (s) were pre-swollen in water at room temperature and then added to the surfactant mixture,
  • the pH was adjusted with citric acid to a value of about 4.5 to 5.5, the respectively desired viscosity was adjusted with Arlypon F.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne un procédé pour produire un agent lavant conditionneur, comprenant les étapes qui consistent : a) à préparer une micro-émulsion contenant (i) au moins un alkyl(oligo)glycoside, (ii) au moins un ester de glycérine renfermant au moins un acide gras C10-C24, (iii) au moins une huile différente de (ii), et (iv) de l'eau, et b) à mélanger cette micro-émulsion avec un support cosmétique renfermant au moins un composé polyhydroxy de formule (I) dans laquelle les groupes R1, R2 représentent indépendamment l'un de l'autre un atome hydrogène, un groupe alkyle en C1-C4 ou un groupe phényle ou respectivement des groupes alkylène, les composants d'un cycle cyclopentane ou cyclohexane, les groupes R3, R4 désignent indépendamment un atome hydrogène, un groupe hydroxyle, un groupe alkyle en C1-C4, un groupe hydroxyalkyle, un groupe phényle ou respectivement des groupes alkylène, les composants d'un cycle cyclopentane ou cyclohexane, les groupes R5, R6 représentent indépendamment l'un de l'autre un atome hydrogène, un groupe alykle en C1-C4 ou un groupe hydroxyle, ou un des groupes R5, R6 désigne une chaîne alkyle en C1-C20 saturée ou insaturée, ramifiée ou non ramifiée, qui peut être rompue par un ou plusieurs groupements ester et/ou amide et qui peut porter un ou plusieurs groupes hydroxyle, avec la condition que les groupes R3, R4 ne désignent pas simultanément un groupe hydroxyle.
EP12710217.6A 2011-03-25 2012-03-19 Procédé pour produire un agent lavant conditionneur Withdrawn EP2688545A2 (fr)

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DE102011015192A DE102011015192A1 (de) 2011-03-25 2011-03-25 Verfahren zur Herstellung eines konditionierenden Reinigungsmittels
PCT/EP2012/054791 WO2012130655A2 (fr) 2011-03-25 2012-03-19 Procédé pour produire un agent lavant conditionneur

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JP2014509610A (ja) 2014-04-21
US20140023606A1 (en) 2014-01-23
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CN103429219A (zh) 2013-12-04
WO2012130655A3 (fr) 2013-06-13

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